[How to climb series 01] • Climbing Anchors by Long, John -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Acknowledgments Preface

Anchor Failure Revisiting the Cordelette Escaping the Belay

Introduction

Secure When Does “Good Enough” Become Too Much? SRENE—Sound Practice, But Not the Final Word in Anchors About This Guide A Brief History of Rock Hardware

Part I: Simple Anchors

Chapter 1: Natural Anchors

Trees Shrubs and Bushes Boulders and Blocks Horns Threading Tunnels Chockstones

Chapter 2: Passive Chocks

Tapers Oppositional Nuts Offset Tapers Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts) All the Rest Removing Passive Chocks

Chapter 3: Mechanical Chocks

Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs) Sliding Nuts Summary

Chapter 4: Fixed Gear

Pitons Bolts Cold Shuts Webbing (Sling Material) Cordage

Chapter 5: Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut

Static and Dynamic Forces Dynamic Forces in a Fall The Top Piece Conclusion

Chapter 6: Judging the Direction of Pull

Direction of Pull and Anchor Building Swing Direction of Pull on Primary Placements

Chapter 7: Knots for Anchoring

Ring Bend Double Fisherman’s Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight Clove Hitch Bowline-on-a-Bight Munter Hitch Knot Strength

Part II: Anchor Systems

Chapter 8: SRENE Anchors

Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion

Chapter 9: Belay Anchors

Building Belay Anchors—A Step-by-Step Process Static and Pre-equalized Systems Cordelettes The Sliding X The Equalette Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X, and Equalette What’s Best for Beginners? Upward Oppositional Anchors Belay Positions Anchor Test Results

Chapter 10: Other Anchors

Toprope Anchors Rappel Anchors Bivouac Anchors Big Wall Anchors Review Conclusion

Appendix

Gear Manufacturers and Sources Essential Reading Supplemental Instruction

About the Authors