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Index
Praise for Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking
Contents
List of Tables
Foreword
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Part I: The Art and Science of Making Cheese
1: Ingredients for All Cheeses
Understanding the Beauty and Complexity of Milk
Milk Sugar—Sweet Secrets
Milk Fat—Filling Out the Flavor
Milk Protein—The Building Blocks for Cheese
Minerals—Keeping It All Together
Vitamins—For That Healthy Glow
Enzymes—The Action Heroes of Cheesemaking
Nuances and Knowledge about Culture
Starter Culture
Native Culture
Ripening Culture
Classifying and Defining Cultures
Lipase—For Extra Flavor
Calcium Chloride—Keeping Things in Balance
Choosing Your Coagulant: Animal, Vegetable, or Microbial
The Process of Coagulation
Beyond Coagulation—The Role of Rennet during Aging
Salt—The Final Key Ingredient
2: Concepts and Processes for Successful Cheesemaking
Choosing and Preparing Milk
Culturing and Ripening
Additional Ingredients
The Process of Coagulation
Cutting the Curd
Cooking and Stirring
Washing the Curds
Checking Curd for Readiness
Pitching the Curd
Draining and Pressing
Draining and Pressing in Forms
The Essentials of Salting
3: The Fundamentals of Acid Development and Monitoring during Cheesemaking
The Essentials of Acidity and pH
Buffering Capacity Explained
More on Acid Development during Cheese-making
Mastering Measuring Acid Development
4: Aging Cheese Gracefully—The Art of Affinage
The Home Cheese Cellar
The Ins and Outs of Monitoring Humidity
Cheese with Special Needs
Selecting Shelving
Aging-Space Housekeeping
Using a Cheese Trier/Iron
Options for Protecting and Finishing a Cheese
Affinage Troubleshooting
5: Spicing It Up: Adding Flavors to Cheese
Adding Seeds and Spices
Using Herbs and Infusions
Working with Ale, Wine, and Spirits
Wrapping a Cheese in Leaves
Smoking Cheese
Using Ash or Charcoal
Marinades for Flavor and Preservation
6: Designing, Equipping, and Maintaining Your Home Cheesemaking Space
Choosing Equipment
Creating Your Cheesemaking Space
Keeping Things Clean
The Six Steps to Sparkling Clean
Part II: Recipes for Success
7: Getting to Know the Family
The Myriad Ways to Categorize Cheese
Working with the Recipes
Exercises for Building Intuition—“Thinking Outside the Vat”
8: Fresh, Acid-Coagulated Cheese
The Fundamentals of Acid Coagulation
A Deeper Look at the Science of Curdling Milk
Tips for Making Fresh, Acid-Coagulated Cheese
Recipe: Quick and Easy—An Added-Acid and Heat-Coagulated Cheese
Recipe: Soft, Fresh, Crumbly, or Pressed—A Developed-Acid and Heat-Coagulated Cheese
Recipe: Soft, Fresh, and Creamy—A Developed-Acid Drained Soft Cheese
Recipe: American-Style Cottage Cheese
9: Brined Cheeses, Fresh and Aged
Tips for Aging, Storing, and Using Brined Cheeses
Recipe: Firm and Crumbly Greek Feta-Style Brined Cheese
Recipe: Smooth and Creamy Bulgarian-Style Brined Cheese
Recipe: Soft and Salty Domiati-Style Brined Cheese
Recipe: Firm and Salty Greek-Style Grilling Cheese
10: White Mold, Surface-Ripened Cheeses
The Fundamental Science of White Mold–Ripened Cheeses
A Deeper Look at the Science of Bloomy Rinds
The Secrets of Making Bloomy Rind Cheeses
Using Starter and Ripening Cultures for White Mold–Ripened Cheeses
Creating Interesting Shapes
Achieving Successful Draining
Salting
Aging and Storing
Recipe: Lactic-Set Bloomy Rind Cheese
Recipe: Rennet Curd Bloomy Rind Cheese
Recipe: Washed Curd, Stabilized Paste Bloomy Rind Cheese
11: Washed Rind Surface-Ripened Cheeses
The Fundamentals of Stinky Cheese
Looking Deeper at the Science of Bacterial Surface-Ripened Cheeses
All about Making Washed Rind Cheeses
Choosing Yeast Ripening Cultures and Coagulant
Recipe: Jos Vulto’s Ouleout—A Washed Rind Cheese
Recipe: Reblochon-Style Washed Rind Cheese
Recipe: Pholia Farm’s Washed Rind Cheese
12: Blue Cheeses
The Fundamental Concepts behind Blue Cheese
A Deeper Look at the Science of Making Blue Cheese
Tips for Making Blues
Recipe: Rindless Blue Cheese
Recipe: Pablo Battro’s Flor Azul—Natural Rind Blue Cheese
Recipe: Milled Curd Stilton-Style Blue Cheese
Recipe: Ann Hansen’s Blue-Brie Cheese
13: Stretched and Kneaded Pasta Filata Cheeses
The Basics of Stretched Curd Cheeses
A Deeper Look at the Science of Stretching and Melting
Making Stretched Curd Cheeses
Recipe: Christy Harris’s Hybrid Mozzarella-Type Cheese
Recipe: Long-Method, Traditional Mozzarella-Style Cheese
Recipe: Semihard to Hard Aged Pasta Filata Cheese
Recipe: Greek-Style Aged Stretched Curd Cheese
14: Semihard to Hard Cheeses
General Tips for Making Semihard and Hard Cheeses
The Fundamentals of Simple-Process Pressed Cheeses
Recipe: A Basic Tomme-Style Cheese
Recipe: A Simple, Piquant Pressed Cheese
The Fundamentals of Making Washed Curd Cheeses
Recipe: Cool-Water Washed Curd Cheese
Recipe: Same-Temperature Light-Brine Washed Curd Cheese
Recipe: Hot-Water Washed Curd Cheese
The Fundamentals of Making Textured and Milled Curd Cheese
Recipe: Stirred Curd Cheese
Recipe: Milled Curd Cheese with Crumbly Texture and Mold-Ripened Rind
Recipe: Classic Milled Curd, English Cheddar–Style Cheese
The Fundamentals of Making Cheese with Eyes
Recipe: Hard Cheese with Small Eyes
Recipe: Semihard to Hard Cheese with Large Eyes
15: Extra-Hard Grating Cheeses
The Fundamental Science of Making Extra-Hard Cheese
Recipe: Classic Italian-Style Extra-Hard Cheese
Recipe: Extra-Hard Washed Curd Cheese
Recipe: Extra-Hard Piquant Cheese
Recipe: Extra-Hard Cheese with Eyes
Appendix A: Troubleshooting Guide
Appendix B: Resources for Education, Sourcing, and Enjoyment
Appendix C: Quick Reference Tables
Appendix D: Sample Make Sheets
Glossary
Notes and References
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