Thinking Through Fashion by Rocamora, Agnès -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Cover Half Title Series Information Title Page Copyright Page Table of Contents List of Figures Acknowledgements 1 Thinking through Fashion

Part I: Theorizing Fashion

Strands and Developments in Theory The Linguistic Turn The Politics of Post-structuralism Old and New Materialisms

Part II: The Key Theorists: Summaries

Chapter 2: Karl Marx (1818–1883) Chapter 3: Sigmund Freud (1856–1939) Chapter 4: Georg Simmel (1858–1918) Chapter 5: Walter Benjamin (1892–1940) Chapter 6: Mikhail Bakhtin (1895–1975) Chapter 7: Maurice Merleau-Ponty (1908–1961) Chapter 8: Roland Barthes (1915–1980) Chapter 9: Erving Goffman (1922–1982) Chapter 10: Gilles Deleuze (1925–1995) Chapter 11: Michel Foucault (1926–1984) Chapter 12: Niklas Luhmann (1927–1998) Chapter 13: Jean Baudrillard (1929–2007) Chapter 14: Pierre Bourdieu (1930–2002) Chapter 15: Jacques Derrida (1930–2004) Chapter 16: Bruno Latour (1947–) Chapter 17: Judith Butler (1956–)

Notes References

2 Karl Marx

Introduction A Glimpse of Marx’s Life and a Lesson in the Symbolic Power of Dress Hegel, Feuerbach and Marx: The Road to Historical Materialism Capitalism, from Dress to Fashion Producing and Consuming ‘Fashion for All’? Labour, ‘Species Being’ and the Duality of Adornment Surplus Value, Sweating and Competition Commodity Fetishism and Fashion Conclusion: Marx Fashioning the Future Acknowledgements References

3 Sigmund Freud

Introduction Freud and Sexuality: Past and Present The Unconscious Freud on Fashion Castration Theory Fashion and Fetishism The Gaze Gender and the Masquerade Psychoanalysis and Fashion The Limitations of Psychoanalysis Conclusion References

4 Georg Simmel

Introduction Simmel’s Sociology Simmel’s Aestheticized Existence Simmel and Later Sociology What Did Simmel Argue About Fashion? Trickling down Conclusion: The After-life of Simmel Notes References

5 Walter Benjamin

Introduction Charles Baudelaire’s Influence on Walter Benjamin’s Writing History, Memory, Time Proustian Memory and the Fold The Phantasmagoric Machine of Capital Production, Reproduction and Representation Conclusion Postscript References

6 Mikhail Bakhtin

Introduction Positioning Bakhtin Bakhtin and Fashion Studies Bakhtin, Fashion and the Body-out-of-bound Fashion, Carnival and Inversions Conclusion: Further Suggestions Notes References

7 Maurice Merleau-Ponty

Introduction Merleau-Ponty’s Theory of Embodied Existence Merleau-Ponty and the New Materialism Towards a Theory of Fashion as Embodied Practice Phenomenological Approaches in Recent Fashion Design Conclusion References

8 Roland Barthes

Introduction The Fashion System and Semiology Fashion, Advertising and Myth Fashion as a Text of Bliss Conclusion Notes References

9 Erving Goffman

Introduction Goffman’s Interaction Order The Dramaturgical Model of Performance The Wardrobe Approach Authentic or Deceptive? The Uncanny Method Conclusion References

10 Gilles Deleuze

Introduction Becoming Multiple Becomings How Does a Body-without-Organs Dress? Folds of Fashion Viktor & Rolf: Spiralling Up with Bows and Ribbons Conclusion Acknowledgements Notes References

11 Michel Foucault

Introduction Foucault’s Conceptual Framework Using Foucault’s Method to Study Fashion Conclusion Notes References

12 Niklas Luhmann

Introduction All Things Social Luhmann in Context Three Phases

Draw a Distinction Functional Differentiation and Autopoiesis Paradox

The Paradoxes of Fashion Is Fashion a Functional Subsystem of Modern Society? Conclusion: Niklas Luhmann in Fashion Studies References

13 Jean Baudrillard

Introduction From Signification to Simulation The Three Stages of Sartorial Representation

Pre-modern Stage Modern Stage Post-modern Stage

From Communication to Seduction Baudrillard and Fashion Theory Fashion and the End of Signification Conclusion References

14 Pierre Bourdieu

Introduction Field Theory The Field of Fashion Distinction Bloggers and the Field of the Fashion Media Conclusion Notes References

15 Jacques Derrida

Introduction De(con)struction in Philosophy Unsettling the Text: The Interweaving of Meaning and the Fashion Trace Deconstruction in Fashion: Fashion under Erasure Maison Margiela: An Analytics of Construction Authorship Innovation Time and Fashion History Conclusion References

16 Bruno Latour

Introduction Latour: Science and Technology Studies and Beyond Applying STS/ANT Thinking through Fashion: Extending Latour Implications for Future Fashion Research Conclusion Notes References

17 Judith Butler

Introduction Performavity: Gender Performance or Prescription? Performativity and Drag Butler’s Implications for Fashion Studies Revealing the Natural Body as Already Clothed: De Beauvoir, Butler and Big Bottoms Butler’s Theory in Action Conclusion Notes References

Contributors