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Index
Cover Page Title Page Copyright Page Table of Contents Foreword Eric Asimov Introduction Howard G. Goldberg Chapter 1 For Openers . . .
The $410 Corkscrew Eric Asimov
Chapter 2 Wine Writing and Writers
Words, Words, Words Frank J. Prial Wine in Two Words Eric Asimov Affairs to Remember Frank J. Prial A Reporter’s Reporter Frank J. Prial A Beguiling Master of Food, Wine and Words Frank J. Prial Man of the Left Who Put Wines to Right Frank J. Prial Pop Goes the Critic Eric Asimov Bronx Cheer of a Wine Guide William Grimes
Chapter 3 The Jungle of Winespeak
Talk Dirt to Me Harold McGee and Daniel Patterson A Short Course in Wine Tactics Frank J. Prial Rolling Out Those Chewy Behemoths Frank J. Prial Guessing Games Frank J. Prial
Chapter 4 What You Drink With What You Eat
Big and Beautiful: Lafite for 12 Eric Asimov A Rule Just Waiting to Be Broken Eric Asimov Oysters With Miso Glaze Florence Fabricant Three Meals Point the Way to Fish in Red Wine Sauce Florence Fabricant How I Spent My Summer of Riesling, by Terroir Frank Bruni Not So Cold Doctor’s Order Eric Asimov Chill Out Frank J. Prial A Sturdy Red for Winter Eric Asimov 12 Reasons to Look Beyond the Usual Wine Selections Eric Asimov Wine Enough to Please Them All R. W. Apple Jr. In a Season of Memory, a Toast to What Endures Alex Witchel Pairing Wine With Chinese Food Jen Lin-Liu Enlisting Radicchio’s Bitterness to Balance the Fruitiness Florence Fabricant A Rustic European Treat of Prunes Poached in Wine Florence Fabricant A Piquant Appetizer That Brings Out the Best in a Wine Florence Fabricant America’s Love of Sherry Smolders Eric Asimov Why Red Wine and Cheese Have Stopped Going Steady Florence Fabricant Serendipity in the Cellar Frank J. Prial Excellent Box, Sir Frank J. Prial Scratch an American, Find an Immigrant Frank J. Prial Ancient Messages, Hidden in a Dusty Bottle From Long Ago Eric Asimov Memories Are Made of This Terry Robards Wine Flavored by the Wind Terry Robards A Wine Critic’s Feast Terry Robards The Tastes of Walla Walla, Secret No More R. W. Apple Jr.
Chapter 5 After the Meal, Treats That Are Sweet, Semisweet—and Powerful
From the Thinnest of Wines, the Richest Spirit: Cognac R. W. Apple Jr. In a Glass, a Swashbuckler Called Armagnac R. W. Apple Jr. Grappa, Fiery Friend of Peasants, Now Glows With a Quieter Flame R. W. Apple Jr A Fine Roughness: On the Trail of a Spirit Called Marc R. W. Apple Jr. Port Is a Welcome Guest at Cocktail Parties Eric Asimov Vintage Madeira’s Enduring Charms Eric Asimov Hidden in Hungary, Treasures on the Vine Evan Rail A Dessert Wine That’s a Public Secret Florence Fabricant Frozen Vines (and Fingers) Yield a Sweet Reward Julia Lawlor
Chapter 6 A Magnum of Miscellany
Natural Winemaking Stirs Debate Eric Asimov New Wine in Really Old Bottles Eric Asimov A Thinking Man’s Wines Eric Asimov The Truth About “Suitcase Clones” Eric Asimov Lack of Sex Among Grapes Tangles a Family Vine Nicholas Wade The Earliest Wine: Vintage 3500 B.C. and Robust John Noble Wilford Cave Drops Hints to Earliest Glass of Red Pam Belluck In Wine Country, Pruning Isn’t Just Part of the Job Jesse McKinley When Velvety Red Is Only Skin Deep Eric Asimov A Zin Oasis in Mexico’s Dusty Hills Eric Asimov Illegal Sale of Rice Wine Thrives in Chinese Enclaves Kirk Semple and Jeffrey E. Singer Japanese Wineries Betting on a Reviled Grape Corie Brown Wines Have Feelings, Too Eric Asimov Too Broad a Stroke for Labeling Wines Eric Asimov The Rites of Vintage Assembly Frank J. Prial
Chapter 7 Made in the U.S. of A.
Pickers to Vintners: A Mexican-American Saga Eric Asimov Gratification, but Not the Instant Kind Eric Asimov A Cult Winemaker Tinkers With Success Eric Asimov Garages for Chardonnays, Not Camrys Patricia Leigh Brown Growing in Napa: Club, and Camp, for Wine Lovers Patricia Leigh Brown Too Sweet to Be Invited to Dinner Eric Asimov Finessed and Light: California Pinot Noirs With a Manifesto Eric Asimov Letting a Grape Be a Grape Eric Asimov Is There Still Hope for Syrah? Eric Asimov The Hard Stuff Now Includes Wine Eric Asimov The Day California Shook the World Frank J. Prial A Dissenter’s View of California Wine Frank J. Prial An Actress’s Presence Is Still Felt Terry Robards A Farewell to the Baron of Bully Hill Frank J. Prial
Chapter 8 You’re Feeling Continental? This Is For You.
In a World of Fine Wine, There’ll Always Be a France Eric Asimov The Paler Shade of Bordeaux Eric Asimov The Soulful Side of Bordeaux Eric Asimov The 1855 Ratings, Etched in Stone (Almost) Frank J. Prial Bordeaux Family Values Frank J. Prial Stealing From Thieves Frank J. Prial Bordeaux Loses Prestige Among Younger Wine Lovers Eric Asimov Burgundy Learns to Bottle Consistency Eric Asimov An American Hears the Call of Burgundy Eric Asimov For Chablis Fanatics, Ah, 2007 Eric Asimov What’s New in Beaujolais Is Not Nouveau Eric Asimov A Potion From a Town Named for Love Frank J. Prial Surprises From the Jura, Jagged in a Velvet-Smooth Universe Eric Asimov The Rewards of the Pampered Grape Eric Asimov Modern Love for Ancient Vines in Southern Italy Eric Asimov A Rare Tasting of Conterno Barolos Eric Asimov An Italian Prince and His Magic Cellar Eric Asimov Some See a Wine Loved Not Wisely, but Too Well Eric Asimov In Apulia, Emancipation for the Grapes R. W. Apple Jr. In Spain, These Hills Are Alive (Again!) Eric Asimov Rooted in Rioja, Traditions Gain New Respect Eric Asimov Txakolina, a Tongue-Twisting Name for Simple Pleasure Eric Asimov German Rieslings, Light and Dry Eric Asimov Austrian Wines Have a Voice, and It’s Excited R. W. Apple Jr. An Honest Day’s Work From Vienna Eric Asimov Meanwhile, Back in Alsace Frank J. Prial Hungarian Dry Wines? Forge Ahead Eric Asimov
Chapter 9 South of the Equator
New Heights for Andean Wine R. W. Apple Jr. South African Goes From Never a Sip to Vineyard Fame Barry Bearak A Winemaker, Transplanted R. W. Apple Jr. Meals in the Bush, Now With Fine Wines R. W. Apple Jr. An Australian Sibling Comes Into Its Own Eric Asimov
Chapter 10 The Night (and Day) They Invented Champagne (and Sparkling Wine)
Taking Champagne Back to Its Roots Eric Asimov In Small Houses, Champagne Finds Its Soul Eric Asimov Champagne’s Servants Join the Masters Eric Asimov Buried Treasure in Baltic Has Vintage Taste John Tagliabue A Greener Champagne Bottle Liz Alderman Spring Comes for a Prince of Champagne Frank J. Prial They Make the Champagne of Champagnes Frank J. Prial A Drink With Drama Frank J. Prial Royal Wedding Wine May Be Bubbly and English Eric Asimov In Albuquerque, French-Style Wines That Sparkle Sarah Kershaw Produced in Champagne, but What Do You Call It? John Tagliabue A Second Life in Champagne Roger Cohen
Chapter 11 Wherein Contrarianism Bursts Forth
Taking a Closer Look at Wine’s Conventional Wisdom Eric Asimov Berkeley’s Wine Radical, 35 Years Later Eric Asimov A Rosé Can Bloom in Winter, Too Eric Asimov So Who Needs Vintage Charts? Frank J. Prial Three Cheers for the Also-Rans Eric Asimov Screw Tops Gain Acceptance Worldwide Frank J. Prial A Musty Myth Frank J. Prial A Sommelier’s Little Secret: The Microwave William Grimes For a Tastier Wine, the Next Trick Involves Harold McGee
Chapter 12 They Don’t Make ’Em Like That Anymore
His Big Idea Is to Get Small Eric Asimov The Tastes of a Century Frank J. Prial A Twilight Nightcap With Alistair Cooke Frank J. Prial A Wine Man Who Vowed to Drain the Cup Frank J. Prial Remembrances of a Champion of the Champagne World Frank J. Prial The Greatest Vintages of Alfred Knopf, 90 Terry Robards By Wine Besotted: A Fantasy Fulfilled Eric Asimov A Wine Spree Worth Savoring Frank J. Prial A Restaurateur Who Bought for Himself Frank J. Prial Naked Came the Vintner Warren St. John He Can Bring the Wine and the Music Eric Asimov Alois Kracher, Austrian Winemaker and Advocate, Is Dead at 48 Eric Asimov Nelson Shaulis, 86, Is Dead; Toiled to Improve Vineyards Howard G. Goldberg Joe Dressner, an Importer With No Use for Pretense, Dies at 60 Eric Asimov
Chapter 13 So, There You Are in a Restaurant
Postcard From Paris: We Drank! We Ate! Frank J. Prial If the Wine Is Off . . . Frank J. Prial Just Pour, He Said, and Put a Cork in It Frank J. Prial Americans Prefer It by the Glass Frank J. Prial On Tap? How About Chardonnay or Pinot Noir? Eric Asimov Sometimes, Half a Bottle Is Better Than One William Grimes Of Wine, Haste and Religion Roger Cohen A Stroll Through the “21” List, Circa 1945 Frank J. Prial
Chapter 14 With Your Kids at the Table
Can Sips at Home Prevent Binges? Eric Asimov
Chapter 15 The Last Drops
The Driest Wines (and the Drollest) Are in the Museum Howard G. Goldberg The Big Grape: Nouveau York City Howard G. Goldberg Jefferson on Wine: “The Only Antidote to the Bane of Whisky” Howard G. Goldberg The Spirit of Giving Frank J. Prial
Contributors’ Biographies Photography and Illustration Credits
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