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Index
ARTS & TRADITIONS OF THE TABLE: Per spec tives on Culinary History Albert ...
Title Page
Foreword
Cooking and Science
Venial Sins, Mortal Sins
Canard à la Brillat-Savarin
Horresco Referens
Reactions in the Saucepan
Universal Gastronomy
The New Physiology of Flavor
The Prehistory of Tastes
Soup
Why Does Soup Cool Down When We Blow on It?
Milk
How Do We Keep Milk from Boiling Over?
Why That Odor?
Why Is Human Milk More Digestible than Cow’s Milk?
Gels, Jellies, Aspics
The Principle of the Calf’s Hoof
A Trap for Water
Why Do Gels Have to Be Made Slowly?
Mayonnaise
Mix Oil and Water?
Why Does Mayonnaise Become Viscous When It Contains So Much Oil?
Why Does a Dash of Lemon Juice or Vinegar Liquefy Mayonnaise?
How Much Mayonnaise Can Be Prepared with a Single Egg Yolk?
Why Must Mayonnaise Be Beaten Vigorously?
Why Can’t the Oil Be Poured In All at Once?
Why Does Mayonnaise Curdle?
The Egg’s Incarnations
Essential Accessories
How Can You Tell a Raw Egg from a Cooked Egg?
Why Does an Egg Cook?
Why Does the Egg Yolk Cook More Slowly than the White?
Why Won’t the Egg White Closest to the Yolk Cook?
Why Add Vinegar to the Water When Poaching an Egg?
The Odorous Mysteries of the Hard-Cooked Egg
The Liquids in Eggs
A Successful Soufflé?
A Foam Beginning with a Liquid?
When Are Egg Whites Whipped Enough?
Why Must We Avoid Getting Yolk in the Whites?
What About Salt or Acid?
A Careful Mix
Why Must the Oven Door Remain Closed While the Soufflé Is Baking?
At What Temperature Must the Soufflé Bake?
How Do You Avoid a Fallen Soufflé?
Three Rules for a Successful Soufflé
Cooking
The Secrets of Tenderness
How Do We Heat Foods?
What Kind of Cooking for Which Dish?
Cooking Without Heat?
The Boiled and the Bouillon
Fifty Hams!
A Universal Flavor?
How Does One Obtain a Flavorful Bouillon?
Can You Lose Weight by Eating Only Boiled Meat?
Steaming
How Does One Tenderize Without Sacrificing Flavor?
Braising
Meat for Cooking Meat?
What Happens During Braising?
Braised Meat Without Sauce?
Chicken Stew, Beef Stew, Veal Stew
How Do We Salt Them?
Questions of Pressure
Why Use a Pressure Cooker?
Cooking in the Mountains?
Roasting
First Principle: Succulence
How Does a Roast Cook?
One Can Become a Cook, but One Is Born a Roaster
Deep-Frying
Why Is It Necessary to Fry in So Much Oil?
Why Must the Deep-Fry Oil Stay Clean?
Why Must the Food for Frying Be Dry?
What to Fry?
Sautés and Grills
Braising with Very High Heat
Good Sense Gone Wrong
Even More Tender
Between Tough and Putrid
By the Neck or by the Beak?
How Many Days for Marinades?
Pineapple Power
Medicine and Cooking
Salting
Why Must Infants Not Be Fed Sausages?
How Do We Dry Meat Using Salt?
Microwaves
Cooking with Internal Vapor
Where Do Microwaves Act?
A Few Questions and Answers
Vegetables
A Matter of Water
How Do We Avoid the Discoloration of Green Vegetables When Cooking Them?
How Long Must Vegetables Be Cooked?
The Mystery of Dried Vegetables
Do Carrots Risk Losing Their Color in Cooking?
How Do We Cook Potatoes?
Can a Dish Containing Vegetables Be Reheated in Butter?
Why Must Cauliflower Not Be Overcooked?
Why Do Beans Cause Flatulence?
Sauerkraut and the Miracles of Fermentation
The Ripening of Tomatoes
Sauces
Neither a Juice nor a Purée
A Variable Consistency
Is Béarnaise Sauce Warm Mayonnaise?
Why Does Hollandaise Sauce Thicken?
Why Is Béarnaise Sauce Opaque?
Why Do Some Emulsified Sauces Fail?
Why Use Very Fresh Eggs?
What Purpose Does Lemon or Vinegar Serve?
How Can We Salvage a Béarnaise Sauce?
Why Will Vinegar Repair Béarnaise Sauce?
The Mystery of White Butter Sauce
Emulsions in the Roast?
The Mysteries of Meat Glaze
Binding with Egg
Binding with Blood
How Do We Salvage a Turned Sauce Bound with Egg?
Binding with Starch
Why Does Flour Thicken Sauces?
Why Must Roux Be Cooked for a Long Time?
Why Must a Sauce Bound with Flour Not Be Overheated?
Why Must Sauces Bound with Flour Remain Liquid While They Are Cooking?
The Skimming
How Do We Salvage a Sauce that Is Too Thick or Thicken a Sauce that Is Too Thin?
Why Must Some Fatty Substance Be Used in Sauces Bound with Flour?
Why Must Lemon Juice and Vinegar Be Avoided in Sauces with a Roux Base?
A Burning Question
Let Us Eat Well, We Will Die Fat
Does Hot Pepper Burn a Hole in the Stomach?
The Salad
Should the Salad Be Prepared in Advance?
Vinaigrette
The Seasoning
Yogurt and Cheese
Acid and Rennet
Careful Attention
Why Does Cheese Smell?
Preparing Yogurt
Fruits of the Harvest
Why Do Apples Turn Brown When They Are Cut?
How Much Sugar for the Syrup for Preserved Fruit?
Ices and Sorbets
How Must Ices Be Agitated?
Must the Preparation Be Placed in the Freezer Hot or Cold?
Instant Ice Cream
Cakes
A Base Both Robust and Light
Meringue Foam
When Should the Sugar Be Added?
Opening the Oven Door
The Scylla and Charybdis of Meringues: Overbeating and Egg Yolk
A Soft Base
Whipped Cream
Pastry Dough
Why Must Dough Be Allowed to Rest Before Baking It?
Limited Kneading
A Thousand Layers ...
Sweet Dough
The Bubbles in Sponge Cake
Leavened Doughs
Sugar
What Happens When Sugar Is Heated?
Why Are We Advised Against Using Aspartame in Cooking?
Bread
How Do We Make Good Bread?
From Water, Flour, Yeast ...
To Work!
Why Must the Flour Be Dry?
Old Flour Makes Good Bread
The Fermentation
Sourdough
When Is Fermentation Complete?
Why the Second Kneading?
The Virtues of Carbon Dioxide
The Baking
Why Does Bread Go Stale?
Wine
The Mouthfuls Most Discussed Taste Best
Tasting with the Eye
Drinking with the Nose
The Beginning of Ecstasy
Finally, Drinking the Wine
Improve a Wine?
Your Own Fruit Wine
Why Does Red Wine Darken as It Ages?
Why Does White Wine Lose Its Green Highlights as It Ages?
How Should We Keep Wine?
Why Does Wine Weep?
Is It Necessary to Let Wine Breathe Before Drinking It?
The Alcohols
How Can We Distill Alcohol?
Improved Whisky?
Cold Distillation
Why Does Alcohol Make You Drunk?
Jams
Why Does Lemon Juice Make Jams Set?
How Much Pectin?
Tea
How Long Should Tea Steep?
Tea in Milk or Milk in Tea?
Change Tea’s Color?
How Can We Not Spill the Tea When Pouring It?
Cold and Cool
Cool, but How Cool?
The Big Chill
Vinegar
The Acid of Alcohol
Must You Have a Mother to Make Vinegar?
Kitchen Utensils
How Can We Rejuvenate Silverware?
Why Beat Egg Whites in Copper Bowls?
Why Cook in Copper Saucepans?
Why Use Wooden Spoons?
Mysteries of the Kitchen
Unanswered Questions
Glossary
Index
Copyright Page
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