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Index
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Contents
List of Figures
List of Tables
List of Maps
Preface
Acknowledgements
Abbreviations
Introduction
Part 1: Geographical and Chronological Context
Chronology
Bronze Age
Early Iron Age
The Orientalising phenomenon
Burial customs
Settlement structure
Urbanisation
Exchange and trade
Colonisation
Cultures and facies
North Italy
Central Adriatic Italy
Central Tyrrhenian Italy
South Italy
Sicily
Sardinia
Conclusions
Part 2: Sources
Written sources
Iconography
Costume
Utilitarian textiles
Pattern
Production
Archaeological evidence
Textiles
Textile tools
Part 3: Fibres and Textiles
Textiles
Yarn
Weave
Finishing
Effects of use and re-use
Archaeological textiles of Italy
Catalogue
Neolithic period and Bronze Age
Iron Age
Fibres
Flax
Hemp
Tree bast and other plant fibres
Esparto
Wool
Goat wool
Dyes
Levelers and mordants
Washing
Dye plants and animals
Archaeological evidence for dyes in Italy
Iconographic evidence
Purple
Gold thread
Textile technology
Variety of fibres
Yarn
Thread count
Weaves
Tablet borders
Dyeing
Sewing
Textile function and context
Garments
Shrouds
Wrappings
Utilitarian textiles and furnishings
Ship rigging and sails
Books
Conclusions
Part 4: Techniques and Tools
Fibre preparation
Flax
Wool
Shears
Sorting and washing
Comb
Hook
Situla
Spinning
Spindle
Spinning hook
Spindle whorl
Distaff
Weaving
Loom
Loom weight
Beating tools
Tablet weaving
Tablet
Spool
Clasp
Spacer and pegs
Other textile techniques
Finishing
Linen: bleaching and smoothing
Wool: fulling
Pleating
Dyeing
Dyeing installations
Grinding and pounding tools
Purple
Sewing
Needle
Knife
Conclusions
Part 5: Contexts
Settlement context
Bronze Age settlements
Late Bronze Age–Early Iron Age settlements
Orientalising and Archaic period settlements
Post-Archaic period settlements
A case study: Poggio Civitate (Murlo)
Burial context
Gender
Status
Skill
Age
Votive and sacred context
Votive deposits
Foundation deposits
Sanctuary textile production
Shipwrecks
Conclusions
Part 6: Technology, Production and Trade
Technology and its changes
Changes in animal husbandry
Increase in number of tools and their standardisation
New tools
New textiles: twill and other ‘standard’ weaves
Production
Modes of production
Specialisation
Specialists: craftswomen and men
Labour organisation
Exchange
Trade
Gift exchange
Information exchange
Conclusions
Part 7: Coda: Textile Production in its Social Context
Notes
Bibliography
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