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Index
Cover Title Page Copyright Contents List of Figures List of Tables List of Maps Preface Acknowledgements Abbreviations Introduction Part 1: Geographical and Chronological Context
Chronology
Bronze Age Early Iron Age The Orientalising phenomenon
Burial customs Settlement structure
Urbanisation
Exchange and trade Colonisation Cultures and facies
North Italy Central Adriatic Italy Central Tyrrhenian Italy South Italy Sicily Sardinia
Conclusions
Part 2: Sources
Written sources Iconography
Costume Utilitarian textiles Pattern Production
Archaeological evidence
Textiles Textile tools
Part 3: Fibres and Textiles
Textiles
Yarn Weave Finishing Effects of use and re-use
Archaeological textiles of Italy Catalogue
Neolithic period and Bronze Age Iron Age
Fibres
Flax Hemp Tree bast and other plant fibres Esparto Wool Goat wool
Dyes
Levelers and mordants Washing Dye plants and animals Archaeological evidence for dyes in Italy Iconographic evidence Purple
Gold thread Textile technology
Variety of fibres Yarn Thread count Weaves Tablet borders Dyeing Sewing
Textile function and context
Garments Shrouds Wrappings Utilitarian textiles and furnishings Ship rigging and sails Books
Conclusions
Part 4: Techniques and Tools
Fibre preparation
Flax Wool Shears Sorting and washing Comb Hook Situla
Spinning
Spindle Spinning hook Spindle whorl Distaff
Weaving
Loom Loom weight Beating tools
Tablet weaving
Tablet Spool Clasp Spacer and pegs
Other textile techniques Finishing
Linen: bleaching and smoothing Wool: fulling Pleating
Dyeing
Dyeing installations Grinding and pounding tools Purple
Sewing
Needle Knife
Conclusions
Part 5: Contexts
Settlement context
Bronze Age settlements Late Bronze Age–Early Iron Age settlements Orientalising and Archaic period settlements Post-Archaic period settlements A case study: Poggio Civitate (Murlo)
Burial context
Gender Status Skill Age
Votive and sacred context
Votive deposits Foundation deposits Sanctuary textile production
Shipwrecks Conclusions
Part 6: Technology, Production and Trade
Technology and its changes
Changes in animal husbandry Increase in number of tools and their standardisation New tools New textiles: twill and other ‘standard’ weaves
Production
Modes of production Specialisation Specialists: craftswomen and men Labour organisation
Exchange
Trade Gift exchange Information exchange
Conclusions
Part 7: Coda: Textile Production in its Social Context Notes Bibliography
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