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Index
Introduction
Chapter 1: How Your Puppy Developed Before You Got Her.
1.1 The Neonatal Period (0 to 14 Days).
1.1.1 Touch and handling.
1.1.2 Taste.
1.1.3 Smell, sensitivity and discrimination.
1.2 Vision Starts at the End of the Neonatal Period.
1.2.1 Dogs have lower visual acuity but are better at detecting motion.
1.2.2 Night vision.
1.2.3 Are dogs color blind?
1.3 The Transition Period (14 to 21 Days).
1.3.1 What do puppies hear?
1.3.2 As soon as puppies can hear, we can start habituating them to new sounds.
1.4 The Sensitive Period for Socialization (Three Weeks to Three Months).
1.4.1 Learning how to interact with other dogs.
1.4.2 Providing positive experiences with unfamiliar people of different sizes, genders and ethnicities.
1.4.3 Socializing puppies to other species.
1.4.4 Learning to walk on different surfaces.
1.4.5 Introducing puppies to other man-made objects and sounds.
1.4.6 Training to love crates and car rides.
Chapter 2: Why Start Training So Soon?
2.1 Is It Safe to Start so Soon?
2.2 Won’t We Break the Puppy’s Spirit?
2.3 How Will the Puppy Learn Right From Wrong?
2.4 Is It Okay to Wait a Week or More for the Puppy to Settle in Before Starting the Training?
2.5 Here’s Another Reason to Start Early.
Chapter 3: Preparing for the Puppy.
3.1 What You Need.
3.2 One Surprise Item You Do Not Need and What to Use in Its Place.
3.2.1 Avoid using a food bowl.
3.2.2 Use a food puzzle instead.
Chapter 4: A Foolproof Potty Training Program.
4.1 Potty Training Starts With Learning to Love and Sleep in a Crate.
4.1.1 Crates and Whining.
4.2 Potty Training Requires a Regular Schedule and Getting Puppy to Her Potty Spot Quickly.
4.2.1 How often should you take her out?
4.2.2 Adding the cue to go potty.
4.3 Potty Training Requires Constant Supervision.
4.4 What Happens When There’s an Accident?
4.5 What to do with Little Dogs or Puppies Who Dislike Going Outside to Potty in Cold Weather.
Chapter 5: Dr. Sophia Yin’s Learn to Earn Program for Puppies.
5.1 The Program Basics.
5.1.1 What does leadership really mean?
5.1.2 What your puppy will learn.
5.1.3 How many weeks does the puppy have to be tethered?
5.1.4 How long does the whole program take?
5.2 The Foundation: Say Please by Sitting and Looking at You.
5.2.1 Say please by sitting for treats (kibble).
5.2.2 Turn sit into a game.
5.2.3 Say please even when humans are crouching.
5.3 For What Else Should She Say Please?
5.3.1 Say please to be petted.
5.3.2 Say please to go in and out of the house.
5.3.3 Say please to come in with the people.
5.3.4 Say please to play fetch.
5.3.5 Say please to get your attention when tethered away from you.
5.3.6 Say please to greet people.
5.4 Three Versions of Leave-it and How to Use Them.
5.4.1 Version 1: Waiting politely to take treats from your hand.
5.4.2 Version 2: Blocking her from getting to food on the ground.
5.4.3 Version 3: Tossing food beyond the range of the leash.
5.4.4 Applying leave-it to toys.
5.4.5 Using leave-it to wait politely at the door.
5.4.6 Practicing in other real-life situations in the home.
5.5 When to Add the Cue Word “Sit.”
5.6 Turning the Sit Game and Leave-It Into Walking on Leash.
5.6.1 Walking on leash in the heel position.
5.6.2 Prevent pulling.
5.7 Come When Called.
5.7.1 Come is an extension of the fun sit exercises.
5.7.2 Come when called, with distractions.
5.8 What to Do When Puppy Nips and Chews Inappropriate Objects.
5.8.1 Method 1: Distracting and replacing with an appropriate toy.
5.8.2 Method 2: Distracting with a treat, rewarding a calm sit.
5.9 What a Typical Day on Learn to Earn and Potty Training Program Looks Like.
5.10 A Recap of the Learn to Earn Program.
5.10.1 Tether your puppy to you during a busy time of day.
5.10.2 Tether your puppy to you when you are working at your desk or relaxing.
5.10.3 Provide play time and work on training games.
5.10.4 Where should your puppy be when you need a break from her?
Chapter 6: Socializing Your Pup to Dogs, People, New Environments and Handling.
6.1 Training Puppies to Love Being Handled.
6.1.1 Teach them to enjoy being held in different positions.
6.1.2 Handle your puppy’s feet, ears, mouth, as if you’re examining them.
6.1.3 Train them that having their collar grabbed is fun.
6.2 Providing Positive Experiences with Unfamiliar People.
6.2.1 Lucy meets 100 people in 100 days.
6.2.2 Lucy learns to enjoy being handled by unfamiliar people too.
6.3 Giving Your Puppy Positive Experiences With Well-Behaved Dogs.
6.3.1 It’s important to know when other dogs need a rest.
6.4 Socializing the Puppy to Other Animals.
6.5 Making Your Puppy Comfortable in Many Different Environments.
6.6 Recognizing Fear and Anxiety in Dogs.
6.6.1 Brows and ears.
6.6.2 Licking lips.
6.6.3 He may stop eating.
6.6.4 Yawning and panting.
6.6.5 She may act sleepy.
6.6.6 Cowering.
6.6.7 Cowering vs. submissive postures vs. affiliative gestures.
6.6.8 Hypervigilance.
6.7 What to Do if You Notice Signs of Fear and Anxiety in Your Puppy.
6.7.1 Why to avoid forcing your puppy to face her fears.
6.7.2 When to get help.
6.8 Checklist for Socialization.
Chapter 7: A Head Start on All the Rest.
7.1 Learning to Lie Down.
7.1.1 Using a food lure.
7.1.2 Graduate to a hand signal and later a verbal cue.
7.2 Learning to Go From a Down to a Sit.
7.2.1 First with a food lure.
7.2.2 Graduate to a hand signal and later a verbal cue.
7.3 Training the Down-stay Using the MannersMinder ® (a.k.a. Treat&Train ® ).
7.4 Improving Communication by Teaching a Marker Sound or Bridging Stimulus.
7.4.1 Training the marker sound or bridging stimulus.
7.4.2 Using the marker to train behaviors efficiently.
7.4.3 Markers and shaping come in handy for training complex behaviors.
7.5 Conclusion.
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