Champagne by Liem, Peter -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Title Page Copyright Contents Preface PART ONE: UNDERSTANDING CHAMPAGNE Chapter I: The Primacy of Place

A Note to Readers

Chapter II: A History

Still Beginnings: Fifth to Seventeenth Centuries Royal Wine Acquiring Sparkle: Seventeenth to Eighteenth Centuries The English Contribution Effervescent Style The Business of Bubbles: Nineteenth Century The Birth of the Champagne Houses War, Phylloxera, and Replanting the Vines Classifying Champagne’s Terroirs The Second Wave of Champagne Houses André Jullien’s Topographie Drawing the Boundaries of the Champagne Region The Échelle des Crus Evolution of the Modern Style: Twentieth Century The Roles of Négociants and Growers The Rise of Site-Specific Champagnes The Bigger Picture Site-Specific Champagnes: A Timeline

Chapter III: How Champagne is Made

Pressing the Grapes Modern Presses Primary Fermentation: Making Base Wines Beyond Barrels Yeast Selection Malolactic Fermentation Aging and Blending Base Wines The Solera, or Perpetual Cuvée The Complicated Art of Blending Champagne Styles Secondary Fermentation: How Champagne Gets Its Sparkle Rethinking Nonvintage Champagne Aging on Lees Under Pressure Riddling and Disgorging Dosage Dosage by Numbers MCR: The Debate Over Concentrated Grape Must Stoppering the Bottles Aging in the Cellar How to Serve and Store Champagne Present and Future

Chapter IV: Old Soils, New Farming

Trash in the Vines The Soil Debunking the Chalk Myth Grape Varieties of Champagne The Cycle of the Vine Winter: Pruning Spring: Budbreak and Plowing Summer: Making the Must Fall: Harvest A Stand Against Clones Champagne Is Heating Up A Modern Way to Farm Sustainability Initiatives of the Comité Champagne Lutte Raisonnée and Beyond

PART TWO: THE PLACE Chapter V: the Landscape of Champagne

Larmat’s Maps Larmat Map Facsimiles 160 Million Years in the Making Rethinking Champagne’s Subregions

Chapter VI: White Grapes, White Soils: The Côte des Blancs

A Study in Contrast: Wines of the Northern Côte des Blancs Cramant and Avize: The Original Grand Crus Pure Cramant Avize: Chalk and Clay The Grand Cru Villages of the South: Oger and le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger: Chalky and Austere Vertus and the Wines of the Southern Côte des Blancs The Flinty Soils of Mont Aimé Recommended Single-Cru Andsingle-Vineyard Wines of the Côte des Blancs

Chapter VII: Exploring Pinot Country: The Montagne de Reims

Bouzy and Ambonnay: Always Rivals Site-Specific Ambonnay Trépail and Villers-Marmery: Chardonnay in Pinot Country Léclapart’s Trépail Villers-Marmery Chardonnay Historic Terroir: The Grand Cru Villages of the Northern Montagne Revealing Verzy Verzenay: Between Two Landmarks Sillery: Aristocratic Terroir Mailly-Champagne and Mailly Grand Cru Premier Cru Villages of the Grande Montagne Identifying Ludes Terroir Meunier in the Petite Montagne Jérôme Prévost’s Gueux The Future in Merfy Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Wines of the Montagne de Reims

Chapter VIII: Mountains and Rivers: The Grande Vallée

Vineyards of the River Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ: The Superpremier Cru Aÿ: Champagne of Kings Cristal Rosé: A Reflection of Äy Refinement Chardonnay in a Sea of Pinot Noir Dizy and Hautvillers: Premier Cru Terroir Cumières: Champagne’s Hot Spot Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Grande Vallée

Chapter IX: Rive Gauche, Rive Droite: The Vallée de la Marne

Left Bank, Right Bank Leuvrigny and Festigny: Meunier Comes Into Focus Left-Bank Realities: Mareuil-le-Port Views from the Right Bank Far West: The Aisne Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Vallée de la Marne

Chapter X: Between Two Giants: The Coteaux Sud D’Épernay

Defining the Coteaux Sud D’épernay Stony Soils of Pierry Chavot-Courcourt: A Lesson in Soil Diversity Moussy and the Master of Meunier Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Coteaux Sud D’Épernay

Chapter XI: New Plantings: The Coteaux Du Morin, Côte de Sézanne, Vitryat and Montgueux

Defining the Coteaux Du Morin Reviving Historic Terroir in the Côte de Sézanne Chalking Up Differences: The Vitryat Montgueux: Hill of the Goths Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Coteaux Du Morin Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Côte de Sézanne Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagne of the Vitryat Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of Montgueux

Chapter XII: Upstarts: A New Generation in the Côte des Bar

The Aube: South Rising The Côte des Bar: Diverse Soils, Diverse Grapes A New Generation Still Rosé in Champagne Country Recommended Single-Cru and Single-Vineyard Champagnes of the Côte des Bar

PART THREE: THE PEOPLE Chapter XIII: Producers of Champagne

Agrapart et Fils Apollonis Michel Arnould et Fils L. Aubry Fils Spécial Club Champagnes Paul Bara Barrat-Masson Françoise Bedel Bérêche et Fils Grower Organizations Billecart-Salmon H. Billiot Fils Bollinger Bonnaire Francis Boulard Emmanuel Brochet Etienne Calsac Cattier Claude Cazals Guy Charlemagne Chartogne-Taillet Gaston Chiquet Coessens Ulysse Collin Roger Coulon De Sousa et Fils Dehours Diebolt-Vallois Organic and Biodynamic Champagnes Dom Pérignon Pascal Doquet Dosnon Doyard Drappier Charles Dufour Duval-Leroy Egly-Ouriet Nathalie Falmet Fleury Val Frison Gatinois René Geoffroy Pierre Gerbais Pierre Gimonnet Henri Giraud Hugues Godmé Gonet-Médeville Marc Hébrart Charles Heidsieck Olivier Horiot Huré Frères Jacquesson Janisson-Baradon et Fils Krug Benoît Lahaye Laherte Frères Jean Lallement et Fils Lamiable Lancelot-Pienne Larmandier-Bernier Jacques Lassaigne Georges Laval David Léclapart Leclerc-Briant Marie-Noëlle Ledru A.R. Lenoble Lilbert-Fils Nicolas Maillart Mailly Grand Cru A. Margaine Marguet Marie-Courtin Bruno Michel José Michel Christophe Mignon Jean Milan Pierre Moncuit Moussé Fils Mouzon-Leroux Nominé-Renard Bruno Paillard Pierre Paillard Franck Pascal Pehu-Simonet Coteaux Champenois: Still Wines Penet-Chardonnet Pierre Péters Philipponnat Ployez-Jacquemart R. Pouillon et Fils Jérôme Prévost Eric Rodez Louis Roederer Pol Roger Roses de Jeanne Salon Savart François Secondé J.-M. Sélèque Jacques Selosse Suenen Taittinger Tarlant Varnier-Fannière Vazart-Coquart J.-L. Vergnon Jean Vesselle Veuve Clicquot Veuve Fourny et Fils Vilmart et Cie. Vouette and Sorbée

Notes Glossary Échelle des Crus Bibliography Acknowledgments About the Author Index DETAILED MAPS THE LARMAT MAPS OF THE CHAMPAGNE REGION

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