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Index
Cover
Title
Copyright
Contents
Introduction
A Note on Wave Measurement
Chapter 1: Out of the Blue, Pre-1900
Ancient Peru
Ancient Hawaii, Part 1
Ancient Hawaii, Part 2
The Alaia Surfboard
The “Discovery” of Hawaii
The Altogether Astonishing Surfer
Surfing in Decline
Early Revival
Chapter 2: Gliding Return, 1900–1945
Reborn
Hui Nalu Club
Jack London
George Freeth
Beachboys
Duke
Early Surfing in Australia
Tom Blake
The Glamour of Surf
Mary Ann Hawkins
Surf Clubs
Early Makaha
San Onofre
Early North Shore
Rabbit Kekai
Death at Waimea
Chapter 3: Malibu Swing, 1945–late 1950s
Surfing Goes Socal
Postwar Surfboard Design
Bob Simmons Surfboard
Malibu
Dewey Weber
Makaha and Early Big-Wave Surfing
Buzzy Trent
Surfing Goes International
Australia, 1956
Bud Browne and the First Surf Movie
Greg Noll
First Time at Waimea
Chapter 4: Boom Years—A Massive Swelling, Late 1950s–1967
Gidget
Early Rebel Surfers
Hobie Alter and Dale Velzy
Foam Boards and Wetsuits
Early Surf Fashion
John Severson and Surfer
Early Surf Contests
Huntington Beach
Mickey Dora
Surf Culture Goes Mainstream
The Public Image
Midget Farrelly
East Coast
Women Surfers
Nuuhiwa and Noseriding
Bruce Brown and The Endless Summer
Chapter 5: Barefoot Revolution,1966–1974
Shortboard Revolution
George Greenough
Shortboards: Bob McTavish and Nat Young
Surf, Drugs, and Rock and roll.
Surfer Tunes In, Turns On
Wayne Lynch
Localism
Soul Surfing
Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson
Larry Bertlemann
Pipeline
North Shore Surfers
Chapter 6: The Fortune Seekers, Early 1970s–1980
Exotic Surf Travel
Indonesia
The Birth of Professional Surfing
Hemming Takes Charge
Wayne Bartholomew and Mark Richards
Shaun Tomson
Chapter 7: The Long and the Short of It, 1981–1991
Return of Longboarding
Simon Anderson and the Thruster
A Billion-Dollar Sport
Tom Carroll and Tom Curren
Australia’s Endless Talent
Flyboy Martin Potter
Op Pro
Tavarua
Apartheid
An International Swell
Eddie Aikau
Return of Big-Wave Surfing
Chapter 8: The Ride of Your Life, 1990–2015
Lisa Andersen and the Roxy Girl
Kelly Slater
Aerial Surfing
Maverick’s
Tow Surfing
Slabs: Shipstern Bluff
Surfing in Museums, Theaters, Newsstands, and Malls
Brazil
Joel Tudor
Sexism, Homophobia, and the Female Surfer
Acknowledgments
Photo and Illustration Credits
Index
About the Author
Chronicle Ebooks
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