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Index
Cover Title Copyright Contents Introduction
A Note on Wave Measurement
Chapter 1: Out of the Blue, Pre-1900
Ancient Peru Ancient Hawaii, Part 1 Ancient Hawaii, Part 2 The Alaia Surfboard The “Discovery” of Hawaii The Altogether Astonishing Surfer Surfing in Decline Early Revival
Chapter 2: Gliding Return, 1900–1945
Reborn Hui Nalu Club Jack London George Freeth Beachboys Duke Early Surfing in Australia Tom Blake The Glamour of Surf Mary Ann Hawkins Surf Clubs Early Makaha San Onofre Early North Shore Rabbit Kekai Death at Waimea
Chapter 3: Malibu Swing, 1945–late 1950s
Surfing Goes Socal Postwar Surfboard Design Bob Simmons Surfboard Malibu Dewey Weber Makaha and Early Big-Wave Surfing Buzzy Trent Surfing Goes International Australia, 1956 Bud Browne and the First Surf Movie Greg Noll First Time at Waimea
Chapter 4: Boom Years—A Massive Swelling, Late 1950s–1967
Gidget Early Rebel Surfers Hobie Alter and Dale Velzy Foam Boards and Wetsuits Early Surf Fashion John Severson and Surfer Early Surf Contests Huntington Beach Mickey Dora Surf Culture Goes Mainstream The Public Image Midget Farrelly East Coast Women Surfers Nuuhiwa and Noseriding Bruce Brown and The Endless Summer
Chapter 5: Barefoot Revolution,1966–1974
Shortboard Revolution George Greenough Shortboards: Bob McTavish and Nat Young Surf, Drugs, and Rock and roll. Surfer Tunes In, Turns On Wayne Lynch Localism Soul Surfing Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson Larry Bertlemann Pipeline North Shore Surfers
Chapter 6: The Fortune Seekers, Early 1970s–1980
Exotic Surf Travel Indonesia The Birth of Professional Surfing Hemming Takes Charge Wayne Bartholomew and Mark Richards Shaun Tomson
Chapter 7: The Long and the Short of It, 1981–1991
Return of Longboarding Simon Anderson and the Thruster A Billion-Dollar Sport Tom Carroll and Tom Curren Australia’s Endless Talent Flyboy Martin Potter Op Pro Tavarua Apartheid An International Swell Eddie Aikau Return of Big-Wave Surfing
Chapter 8: The Ride of Your Life, 1990–2015
Lisa Andersen and the Roxy Girl Kelly Slater Aerial Surfing Maverick’s Tow Surfing Slabs: Shipstern Bluff Surfing in Museums, Theaters, Newsstands, and Malls Brazil Joel Tudor Sexism, Homophobia, and the Female Surfer
Acknowledgments Photo and Illustration Credits Index About the Author Chronicle Ebooks
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