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Index
Preface Introduction Big Wave Timeline Mavericks’ Tombstone Surf Like Jay: The Life and Death of James Michael Moriarty (1978-2001) Road Agent: Greg Long’s Life in Pursuit A Searching and Fearless Moral Inventory Surviving December 1st, 1969 Beyond the Blue Beal’s Stash Tangled Up in Waimea Hammer Down Spirit of the Foals Beneath the Waves Reflections On Waimea Dungeons Time Fisherman’s Hunch: First Tracks at the Bosenquet Bombora Harsh Realm: Fifty Years on the North Shore Pat Curren Coffee Break Dislocated: Mavericks and Me The Rush: A Profile of Garrett McNamara The 100-Foot Wave Aamion Goodwin’s Circle Pacific The Eye of the Storm High Noon at Bishop Rock The Heart of the Matter Sources Acknowledgments About the Editors
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