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Index
Cover
Half Title
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Epigraph
Contents
Acknowledgements
Part I
Introduction: Making, Wearing and Inventing Futures
Outline of the Book
1 ‘One Wants Nerves of Iron’: Cycling in Victorian Britain
Men, Cycling and Cycle Wear
The ‘Dress Problem’
Why Study Clothing?
2 From the Victorian Lady to the Lady Cyclist
The ‘New Woman’ and Changing Social Fabric
The Construction of the Lady Cyclist
The Physical Reality of Cycling in Ordinary Dress
The Social Dangers of Cycle Wear
Creating the Conditions for Invention
3 Inventing Solutions to the ‘Dress Problem’
Bicycle Design Strategies
Cycle Wear Strategies
Rational Dress
Strategies of Concealment
Site-Specific Cycle Wear
Country-Specific Cycle Wear
Making (and Patenting) Your Own Cycle Wear
4 The 1890s Patenting Boom and the Cycle Craze
Patent Reform and the Cycling Revolution
Women Inventors Fight to be Recognised
5 Extraordinary Cycle Wear Patents
Themes in Patents
Device to Attach, Stiffen or Secure Skirt
Tailor Skirt to Fit Bike
Built-In Bifurcation
Bloomers, Breeches and Knickerbockers
Convertible Cycle Wear
Researching, Making and Wearing Convertible Cycle Wear
Part II
6 Patent No. 17,145:: Alice Bygrave and Her ‘Bygrave Convertible Skirt’
The Inventor and Her Life
Commercialisation and Distribution
Interviewing the ‘Bygrave Convertible Skirt’
7 Patent No. 6794: : Julia Gill and Her Convertible Cycling Semi-Skirt
The Inventor and Her Life
Ideas and Experimentation
New Cycle Wear Retail Experiences
Interviewing Julia’s Convertible Cycling Semi-Skirt
8 Patent No. 8766:: Frances Henrietta Müller and Her Three-Piece Convertible Cycling Suit
The Inventor and Her Life
The Gender Politics of Pockets
Interviewing Henrietta’s Three-Piece Convertible Cycling Suit
9 Patent No. 13,832: : Mary and Sarah Pease and Their Convertible Cycling Skirt/Cape
The Inventors and Their Lives
Tactics for Site-Specific Concealment
Visual Culture of Women’s Cycling
Interviewing the Pease Sisters’ Convertible Skirt/ Cape
10 Patent No. 9605:: Mary Ward and Her Convertible ‘Hyde Park Safety Skirt’
The Inventor and Her Life
Promenading in the Parks
Interviewing Mary’s Convertible ‘Hyde Park Safety Skirt’
Part III
Conclusion: The Politics of Patenting (or How to Change the World One Garment at a Time)
British Cycle Wear Patents 1890–1900: (for New or Improvements to Women’s Skirts for the Purposes of Cycling)
Notes
Bibliography
List of Figures
Index
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