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Index
Cover
Half Title
Series Information
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Contents
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Methodology
1 Against Power Dressing: Georgina Godley
The maternal and the grotesque
Georgina Godley’s background
Body-altering garments
Corporate coding
2 Fashioning the Maternal Body: Rei Kawakubo
Kawakubo and Merce Cunningham’s Scenario 1997
Kawakubo, Cunningham and the ‘uncanny maternal’
3 Performing Pregnancy: Leigh Bowery
Leigh Bowery’s background
Pregnant looks
Birth performances
Bowery and 1980s fashion
4 Deconstruction and the Grotesque: Martin Margiela
Journalistic reception
Fashion of inversion
Playing with scale: giants and dolls
Giants: the oversized collections
Dolls: the magnified collections
Farcical discrepancy
5 Carnivalised Time: Martin Margiela
Margiela’s work and alternative temporalities
‘Theatre Costumes’ collection: spring/summer 1993
‘Tromp-l’oeil’ collection: spring/summer 1996
Performing garments: Martin Margiela’s Rotterdam exhibition
6 Carnival Iconography: Bernhard Willhelm
Carnival iconography
Carnivalesque practices
Absurd
Humour and horror
Debasement
7 The Proliferation of the Grotesque: Lady Gaga
Lady Gaga and experimental fashion
Lady Gaga and fat drag
Fashion, performance and performativity
Fashioning the grotesque
Notes
Bibliography
Filmography
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