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Index
Cover Title Page Contents How to Use This Book Introduction: Beyond Fit and Style Chapter One: Learning From Custom and Ready-to-Wear Garments
What is Quality Construction? Two Extremes: L.L. Bean Jeans and YSL Couture Mid-Level Ready-to-Wear High-Level Ready-to-Wear Men’s and Women’s Custom-Tailored Trousers Men’s Vintage Custom-Tailored Trousers A Few Conclusions
Chapter Two: Tools and Materials
Sewing and Pressing Tools Gluing Supplies and Marking Tools Thread Outer and Inner Fabrics Pocketing Fabrics Interfacings Waistband Reinforcements
Chapter Three: Basic Construction
Master Patterns vs. Styled Patterns Allowances and Outlets Before You Cut Adding a Cut-On Waistband Piecing the Fork Staying the Fork
Chapter Four: Pockets
Bag Basics On-Seam Pockets Leather Piping Slant-Front Pockets Expanding-Waist Pockets Double Welts Single Welts Topstitching and Machine-Tacking Zipper Pockets and Other Security Features
Chapter Five: Fly Fronts
Zipper-Fly Basics Cut-On-Waist Zipper with Cut-On Fly Shield Zipper Fly with an Add-On Shield Button Flies Keyhole Buttonholes
Chapter Six: Waistbands
Sew-On Waistband Extended Waistband Belt-Loop Options
Chapter Seven: Refinements
Lining Flaps Stitching the Crotch Shaping the Legs Felling Back Stitching Tying-Off Knot Ready-Made Waistband Finishes Afterthought Pleat Stays
Chapter Eight: Learning From Projects
Casual Cotton Pants Dressy Woolen Trousers Experimental Designs
Sources Further Reading About the Author Index Copyright Page
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