Les Baux • St-Rémy • The Camargue
Sleeping and Eating in Les Baux
Orientation to St-Rémy-de-Provence
Sleeping in St-Rémy-de-Provence
Map: Restaurants in St-Rémy’s Old Town
Sights and Towns in the Camargue
The diverse terrain around Arles harbors many worthwhile and easy day trips. The medieval ghost town of Les Baux haunts the eerie Alpilles mountains, while chic and compact St-Rémy-de-Provence awaits just over the hills, offering Roman ruins and memories of Vincent van Gogh. For an entirely different experience, the flat Camargue wetlands region knocks on Arles’ southern door with sandy beaches, saltwater lakes, rice paddies, flamingos, wild horses, and wild black bulls.
Because public transportation in this area is sparse, these sights are most convenient by car, taxi, or minivan tour. For a memorable one-day road trip from Arles or Avignon, spend the morning in Les Baux (before the crowds), have lunch in St-Rémy and explore its sights, then finish at the Roman aqueduct of Barbegal. Nondrivers can do the same day trip (cheaper without the aqueduct) by bus and taxi. If you have more time or are a nature or bird-watching buff, head for the Camargue. A good market pops up on Tuesday mornings in little Eyguières (near Les Baux and St-Rémy).
The hilltop town of Les Baux crowns the rugged Alpilles (ahl-pee) mountains, evoking a tumultuous medieval history. Here, you can imagine the struggles of a strong community that lived a rough-and-tumble life—thankful more for their top-notch fortifications than for their dramatic views. It’s mobbed with tourists most of the day, but Les Baux rewards those who arrive by 9:00 or after 17:30. (Although the hilltop citadel’s entry closes at the end of the day, once you’re inside, you’re welcome to live out your medieval fantasies all night long, even with a picnic.) Sunsets are dramatic, the castle is brilliantly illuminated after dark, and nights in Les Baux are ghost town-peaceful. (If you like what you see here, but want a way more off-the-beaten-path experience, head for the Luberon and find Fort de Buoux—see the Hill Towns of the Luberon chapter.)
By Car: Les Baux is a 20-minute drive from Arles. Follow signs for Avignon, then Les Baux. Drivers can combine Les Baux with St-Rémy (15 minutes away) and the ruined Roman aqueduct of Barbegal.
On arrival in Les Baux, drivers pay to park near the village or several blocks below. Parking is all metered and squirreled all around the site (first hour is free, €3-4/hour after that, half the meters accept coins). You can park a 15-minute walk away for free at the quarry-cave called Carrières de Lumières, but arrive early to land a spot (described later, under “Near Les Baux”).
By Bus: From Arles, Cartreize bus #57 runs to Les Baux (6/day, 35 minutes, runs daily July-Aug, early May-June and Sept Sat-Sun only, none in off-season; via Abbey of Montmajour, Fontvieille, and Le Paradou; destination: St-Rémy, timetables at www.lepilote.com).
From Avignon, ride Cartreize bus #57 to St-Rémy (12/day Mon-Fri, 6/day Sat-Sun, 45 minutes), then continue to Les Baux on the same bus (described above). Otherwise, continue to Les Baux by taxi.
By Taxi: If buses aren’t running to Les Baux, you can taxi there from St-Rémy, then take another taxi to return to St-Rémy or to your home base. Figure €35 for a taxi one-way to Les Baux from Arles, €60 from Avignon, and €20 from St-Rémy (mobile 06 13 07 55 00).
By Minivan Tour: The best option for many is a minivan tour, which can be both efficient and economical (easiest from Avignon; see here).
Les Baux is actually two visits in one: castle ruins perched on an almost lunar landscape, and a medieval town below. Savor the castle, then tour—or blitz—the lower town’s polished-stone gauntlet of boutiques. While the town, which lives entirely off tourism, is packed with shops, cafés, and tourist knickknacks, the castle above stays manageable because crowds are dispersed over a big area. The town’s main drag leads directly to the castle—just keep going uphill (a 10-minute walk).
Tourist Information: The TI is immediately on the left as you enter the village (daily 9:00-18:00, shorter hours and closed Sun in off-season). The TI can call a cab for you if you need one.
▲▲▲CASTLE RUINS (CHATEAU DES BAUX)
Yves Brayer Museum (Musée Yves Brayer)
▲Carrières de Lumières (Quarries of Light)
Les Baux Views and St-Rémy Loop Drive
The sun-bleached ruins of the stone fortress of Les Baux are carved into, out of, and on top of a rock 650 feet above the valley floor. Many of the ancient walls of this striking castle still stand as a testament to the proud past of this once-feisty village.
Cost: €9, €11 if there’s “entertainment” (described below), €16 Pass Provence combo-ticket with Carrières de Lumières and Yves Brayer Museum (€18 if there is entertainment at Les Baux), entry fees include excellent audioguide.
Hours: Daily 9:00-19:00 (July-Aug until 20:00), March and Oct 9:30-18:30, Nov-Feb 10:00-17:00, www.chateau-baux-provence.com. If you’re inside the castle when the entry closes, you can stay as long as you like.
Entertainment: Every weekend from April through early September and daily in summer, the castle presents medieval pageantry, tournaments, demonstrations of catapults and crossbows, and jousting matches. Pick up a schedule as you enter (or check online).
Picnicking: While no food or drink is sold inside the castle grounds, you’re welcome to bring your own and use one of several picnic tables (the best view table is at the edge near the siege weaponry). Sunset dinner picnics are memorable.
Background: Imagine the importance of this citadel in the Middle Ages, when the Lords of Baux were notorious warriors (who could trace their lineage back to one of the “three kings” of Christmas-carol fame, Balthazar). In the 11th century, Les Baux was a powerhouse in southern France, controlling about 80 towns. The Lords of Baux fought the counts of Barcelona for control of Provence...and eventually lost. But while in power, these guys were mean. One ruler enjoyed forcing unransomed prisoners to jump off his castle walls.
In 1426, Les Baux was incorporated into Provence and France. Not accustomed to playing second fiddle, Les Baux struggled with the French king, who responded by destroying the fortress in 1483. Later, Les Baux regained some importance and emerged as a center of Protestantism. Arguing with Rome was a high-stakes game in the 17th century, and Les Baux’s association with the Huguenots brought destruction again in 1632 when Cardinal Richelieu (under King Louis XIII) demolished the castle. Louis rubbed salt in the wound by billing Les Baux’s residents for his demolition expenses. The once-powerful town of 4,000 was forever crushed.
Visiting the Castle: Buy your ticket and inspect the models of Les Baux before its 17th-century destruction. Pick up your included audioguide when you enter. As you wander, key in the number for any of the 30 narrated stops that interest you.
The sight is exceptionally well presented. As you walk on the windblown spur (baux in French), you’ll pass kid-thrilling medieval siege weaponry (go ahead, try the battering ram). Good displays in English and big paintings in key locations help reconstruct the place. Imagine 4,000 people living up here. Notice the water-catchment system (a slanted field that caught rainwater and drained it into cisterns—necessary during a siege) and find the reservoir cut into the rock below the castle’s highest point. Look for post holes throughout the stone walls that reveal where beams once supported floors.
For the most sensational views, climb to the blustery top of the citadel—hold tight if the mistral wind is blowing.
The St. Blaise chapel across from the entry/exit runs videos with Provençal themes (plays continuously; just images and music, no words).
After your castle visit, you can shop and eat your way back through the lower town. Or, escape some of the crowds by visiting these minor but worthwhile sights as you descend. I’ve linked the sights with walking directions.
• Follow the main drag about 100 yards through the town and look for the flags marking...
The 15th-century City Hall offers art exhibits under its cool vaults. It often flies the red-and-white flag of Monaco amid several others, a reminder that the Grimaldi family (longtime rulers of the tiny principality of Monaco) owned Les Baux until the French Revolution (1789). In fact, in 1982, Princess Grace Kelly and her royal husband, Prince Rainier Grimaldi, came to Les Baux to receive the key to the city.
Exit left and walk uphill 20 steps to the empty 1571 Renaissance window frame. This beautiful stone frame stands as a reminder of this town’s Protestant history. This was probably a place of Huguenot worship—the words carved into the lintel, Post tenebras lux, were a popular Calvinist slogan: “After the shadow comes the light.”
• Continue walking uphill, and turn right on the first street to find the...
This enjoyable museum lets you peruse three small floors of luminous paintings (Van Gogh-like Expressionism) by Yves Brayer (1907-1990), who spent his final years here in Les Baux. Like Van Gogh, Brayer was inspired by all that surrounded him, and by his travels through Morocco, Spain, and the rest of the Mediterranean world. Ask about the English information sheet at the entry.
Cost and Hours: €8, covered by Pass Provence combo-ticket, daily 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, shorter hours and closed Tue and all of Jan-Feb in off-season, tel. 04 90 54 36 99, www.yvesbrayer.com.
• Next door is...
This 12th-century Romanesque church was built short and wide to fit the terrain. The center chapel on the right (partially carved out of the rock) houses the town’s traditional Provençal processional chariot. Each Christmas Eve, a ram pulls this cart—holding a lamb, symbolizing Jesus, and surrounded by candles—through town to the church.
• As you leave the church, WCs are to the left (dug into the stone wall) and up the stairs. Directly in front of the church is a vast view, making clear the strategic value of this rocky bluff’s natural fortifications. A few steps away is the...
The elaborate Nativity scene painted by Yves Brayer covers the entire interior and illustrates the local legend that says Jesus was born in Les Baux.
• As you leave the church, turn left and find the old town “laundry”—with a pig-snout faucet and 14th-century stone washing surface designed for short women.
Continue past the Yves Brayer Museum again, keep left, and curve down Rue de la Calade, passing a view café, the town’s fortified wall, and one of its two gates. At the end you’ll run into the...
This free and fun “museum” displays a collection of santons (“little saints”), popular folk figurines that decorate local Christmas mangers. Notice how the Nativity scene “proves” once again that Jesus was born in Les Baux. These painted clay dolls show off local dress and traditions (with good English descriptions).
A 15-minute walk from Les Baux, this colossal quarry-cave with immense vertical walls offers a mesmerizing sound-and-slide experience. Enter a darkened world filled with floor-to-ceiling images and booming music. Wander through a complex of cathedral-like aisles, transepts, and choirs (no seating provided) as you experience the spectacle. There’s no storyline to follow, but information panels by the café give some background. The show lasts 40 minutes and runs continuously. If you’d like an intermission, you can exit the “show” into a part of the quarry that opens to the sky and take a break at the café before re-entering. Dress warmly, as the cave is cool.
Cost and Hours: €12.50, covered by Pass Provence combo-ticket; daily 9:30-19:30, Nov-March 10:00-18:00; tel. 04 90 54 47 37, www.carrieres-lumieres.com.
This loop drive to St-Rémy and back (35 minutes not including stops) comes with impressive views and access to walking trails (ask at TIs for info on hikes in the Alpilles; Les Baux to St-Rémy is a 2.5-hour hike).
From Les Baux, take D-27 toward Maillane (which passes the Carrière des Lumières). A half-mile beyond Les Baux, you’ll come to dramatic views of the hill town. There are pullouts with great vistas, and cavernous caves in former limestone quarries dating back to the Middle Ages. (The limestone is easy to cut, but gets hard and nicely polished when exposed to the weather.) In 1821, the rocks and soil of this area were found to contain an important mineral for making aluminum. It was named after the town: bauxite.
For more sensational views over Les Baux, continue up D-27 to the top, turn right on the paved road (at the red road marker signed Al.110), and find a pullout among the rocks. You’ll see walking trails nearby.
D-27 continues to St-Rémy. To complete the loop, return from St-Rémy to Les Baux via D-5.
The following stops are worthwhile for drivers.
This brooding hulk of a ruin, just a few minutes’ drive from Arles toward Les Baux, was once a thriving abbey and a convenient papal retreat (c. AD 950). Today, the vacant abbey church is a massive example of Romanesque architecture that comes with great views from its tower. Film buffs will appreciate this sight as the setting for The Lion in Winter, where Eleanor of Aquitaine (played by Katharine Hepburn) battled with her husband, Henry II (Peter O’Toole). For more on abbeys, see the sidebar on here.
The surrounding fields were a favorite of Van Gogh, who walked here from Arles to paint his famous wheat fields.
Cost and Hours: €6, closed Mon Nov-March, tel. 04 90 54 64 17.
To be all alone with evocative Roman ruins, drivers can take a quick detour to the crumbled arches of ancient Arles’ principal aqueduct.
The aqueduct (L’Aqueduc Romain) is a few minutes south of Fontvieille on the D-82 (well signed off the D-17 between Fontvieille and Arles). Park at the dirt pullout (just after the Los Pozos Blancos sign, where the ruins of the aqueduct cross the road).
From the parking area, follow the dirt path through the olive grove and along the aqueduct ruins for 200 yards. Approaching the bluff with the grand view, you’ll see that the water canal is split into two troughs: One takes a 90-degree right turn and heads for Arles; the other goes straight to the bluff and over, where it once sent water cascading down to power eight grinding mills. Romans grew wheat on the vast fields you see from here, then brought it down to the mega-watermill of Barbegal. Historians figure that this mill produced enough flour each day to feed 12,000 hungry Romans. If you saw the model of this eight-tiered mill in Arles’ Ancient History Museum, the milling is easy to visualize—making a visit here quite an exciting experience.
Returning to your car, find the broken bit of aqueduct—it’s positioned like a children’s playground slide—and take a look at the waterproofing mortar that lined all Roman aqueducts.
(See “Les Baux” map.)
Sleeping: Take your pick of a small inn just outside Les Baux or another one within the lower town.
$$ Le Mas d’Aigret*** is a 10-minute walk east of Les Baux on the road to St-Rémy (D-27). From this comfy refuge, you can gaze up at the castle walls rising beyond the heated swimming pool, or enjoy valley views from the groomed terraces. The rooms are tastefully appointed—10 have great views and decks or terraces (convenient half-pension dinner and breakfast option, air-con, pétanque courts, tel. 04 90 54 20 00, www.masdaigret.com, contact@masdaigret.com).
$ Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne** is just inside the gate to Les Baux, across from the TI. The easygoing owners rent four good-value rooms above their popular restaurant (family rooms, air-con, for view deck ask for chambre avec terrasse, tel. 04 90 54 32 06, www.la-reinejeanne.com, marc.braglia@wanadoo.fr).
Eating: You’ll find quiet cafés with views as you follow my walking directions through Les Baux’s lower town. The recommended $ Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne offers friendly service and good-value meals indoors or out (open daily).
There are also a few worthwhile places in the untouristed village of Maussane, a few minutes’ drive south of Les Baux (and 15 minutes from Arles). Place de la Fontaine, the town’s central square, makes a good stop for café fare. $ Pizza Brun has tasty wood-fired pizza to take out or eat in with fun seating indoors and out (closed Mon, 1 Rue Edouard Foscalina; with your back to Place de la Fontaine, walk to the right for about 10 minutes and look for colored tables in an alleyway; tel. 04 90 54 40 73).
Sophisticated and sassy, St-Rémy (sahn ray-mee) gave birth to Nostradamus and cared for a distraught artist. Today, it caters to shoppers and Van Gogh fans. A few minutes from the town center, you can visit the once-thriving Roman city called Glanum and the psychiatric ward where Vincent van Gogh was sent after lopping off his earlobe. Best of all is the chance to elbow your way through St-Rémy’s raucous Wednesday market (until 12:30). A ring road hems in a fun-filled pedestrian-friendly center that’s fully loaded with fine foods, beauticians, art galleries, and the latest Provençal fashions.
Popular St-Rémy offers fine hotel options and makes a good base for day trips to Arles, Avignon, Les Baux, and the Luberon.
By Car: From Les Baux, St-Rémy is a spectacular 15-minute drive over the hills and through the woods. Roads D-5 and D-27 each provide scenic routes between these towns, making a loop drive between them worthwhile (the most scenic approach is on D-27; see “Les Baux Views and St-Rémy Loop Drive” listing, earlier).
Parking in St-Rémy is tricky; it’s easiest at the pay lot by the TI. You can park for free but less centrally by the cemetery (see the “St-Rémy Area” map).
By Bus: It’s one hour from Arles via bus #54 (5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat, none on Sun) or bus #57 (6/day, daily July-Aug, Sat-Sun only in early May-June and Sept, none in off-season) and 45 minutes from Avignon via bus #57 (12/day Mon-Fri, 6/day Sat-Sun). If arriving in St-Rémy by bus, get off on the ring road at the République stop and continue uphill. The TI is a block up Avenue Durand Maillane (to the right).
By Taxi: From Les Baux, allow €20 one-way; from Avignon, count on €40 (mobile 06 14 81 34 85 or 06 25 17 00 73). St-Rémy’s four taxis park on Place de la République, next to the bus stop, but it’s best to have the TI call for you.
By Bike: Rent all sort of bikes (including electric bikes) at Sun-e-Bike (2 Rue Camille Pelletan, tel. 04 32 62 08 39, www.location-velo-provence.com).
From St-Rémy’s circular center, it’s a 20-minute walk along a busy road with no sidewalk to Glanum and the St. Paul Monastery (Van Gogh’s psychiatric hospital).
Tourist Information: The TI is two blocks toward Les Baux from the ring road (Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, Sun 10:00-12:30, tel. 04 90 92 05 22, www.saintremy-de-provence.com). Pick up bus schedules, hiking trail maps, and a town map that includes Van Gogh’s favorite painting locations with easels showing copies of the paintings he produced (the Starry Night panel is just outside the TI).
Helpful Hints: St-Rémy’s Wednesday market swallows Place de République with clothing, fabric, and bric-a-brac, and spreads along the town’s traffic-free lanes selling anything Provençal. You’ll find produce on picturesque Place Pelisser (by City Hall). The market wraps up by about 12:30.
Each year during the last week of September, St-Rémy celebrates les fêtes votives, a tradition in the Camargue region honoring the town’s patron saint. The carnival-like festivities include bullfights, parades, and boules competitions.
St-Rémy’s key sights—the ruins at Glanum and the hospital where Vincent van Gogh was treated—are an unappealing 20-minute walk south of the TI. If you’re driving, you can park for free at the St. Paul Monastery (coming from Les Baux, it’s the first right after passing Glanum) and walk a few minutes on a footpath to Glanum from there (or pay to park at the Glanum site; leave nothing of value in your car).
The still-functioning psychiatric hospital (Clinique St. Paul) that treated Vincent van Gogh from 1889 to 1890 is a popular pilgrimage for Van Gogh fans (the 2017 film Loving Vincent has amped up interest). Here you’ll enter Vincent’s temporarily peaceful world: a small chapel, intimate cloisters, a re-creation of his room, and a small lavender field with several large displays featuring copies of his paintings. There’s also a display about sculptor Camille Claudel, who also sought solace in St-Rémy following a tumultuous affair with Auguste Rodin.
Cost and Hours: €5; daily 9:30-18:30, Oct-March 10:15-16:30, closed Jan-mid-Feb; tel. 04 90 92 77 00, www.saintpauldemausole.fr.
Background: Amazingly, in his 53 weeks here Van Gogh completed 143 paintings and more than 100 drawings (for more on Vincent van Gogh’s time in this region, see the Arles chapter). The contrast between the utter simplicity of his room (and his life) and the multimillion-dollar value of his paintings today is jarring.
“I wanted you to know that I think I’ve done well to come here, first, in seeing the reality of life for the diverse mad or crazy people in this menagerie, I’m losing the vague dread, the fear of the thing. And little by little I can consider my madness as being an illness like any other. And the change of surroundings is doing me good, I imagine. The idea of the duty to work comes back to me a lot.”
—Vincent van Gogh’s letter to brother Theo, May 9, 1889
In the spring of 1890, Vincent left St-Rémy and traveled to Auvers-sur-Oise near Paris to enter the care of Dr. Paul Gachet, whom he hoped could help stabilize his mental condition. Gachet advised the artist to throw himself into his work as a remedy for his illness, which he did—Vincent spent the last 70 days of his life knocking out a painting a day. On July 27, 1890, Vincent wandered into the famous Auvers wheat field and shot himself, dying of his injuries two days later.
Visiting the Hospital: Inside, read the thoughtful English explanations about Vincent’s tortured life. In and around the complex, you’ll see copies of Vincent’s works—some positioned right where he painted them. Several are located through the gift shop in a lavender garden. Stand among flame-like cypress trees, gazing over the Alpilles mountains, and realize you’re in the midst of some of Van Gogh’s most famous works.
While at Monastère St. Paul de Mausole, you’ll also find memories of another troubled artist, Camille Claudel (1864-1943), whose parents had her committed to a nearby mental ward after her anguished affair with sculptor Auguste Rodin. A film about her was shot here using real patients from the clinic. Watch for a re-creation of her kitchen and see a short video about her life.
These crumbling stones are the foundations of a Roman market town, located at the crossroads of two ancient trade routes between Italy and Spain. While the ruins are, well...ruined, their setting at the base of the rocky Alpilles is splendid. It’s also unshaded and can be very hot (making it easier to enjoy early or late).
A stubby Roman arch and tall tower stand across the road from the site as proud reminders of the town’s glory days. These lonely monuments marked the entry to Glanum 2,000 years ago. The plump triumphal arch, now missing its upper level, was designed to impress visitors with scenes of Rome’s power—and by association, Glanum’s prestige. The three-level tower was built as a mausoleum by one of Glanum’s most distinguished families. The battle scene relief on the lowest level is dripping with intensity: The Romans were not just good builders, but skilled artists as well.
Cost and Hours: €8; daily 9:30-18:30; Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; parking-€3/day, tel. 04 90 92 23 79.
Visiting the Ruins: Start at the helpful little museum at the entrance, with good English explanations of key buildings and the excavation process, as well as a model of Glanum in its prime. The free English handout and information panels scattered about the site provide more context to the ruins you’ll see. Serious students of ancient Rome will want to spring for the well-done Itineraries book (€7).
The Roman site was founded in 27 BC and occupied for about 30 years. About 2,500 people lived in Glanum at its zenith (the Roman city was about seven times bigger than the ruins you see today). And though this was an important town, with grand villas, temples, a basilica, a forum, a wooden dam, and aqueducts, it was not important enough to justify an arena or a theater (such as those in Arles, Nîmes, and Orange). Locals had to charter buses to reach events in those cities.
Stroll up Glanum’s main street and see remains of a market hall, a forum, thermal baths, reservoirs, and more. The view from the belvedere justifies the uphill effort. These ruins highlight the range and prosperity of the Roman Empire. Taken together with other Roman monuments in Provence, they paint a more complete picture of Roman life.
Unless otherwise noted, the following hotels have easy parking and air-conditioning.
$$ Le Mas des Carassins,*** a 15-minute walk from the center, is well run by Michel and Pierre. Luxury is affordable here, with two generously sized pools, ample outdoor lounging spaces, big gardens, and everything just so. The 22 rooms are split between the more traditional main building (which I prefer) and the newer annex, which comes with larger rooms and more modern decor (American-style breakfast, table tennis, great dinner option—see below, 1 Chemin Gaulois, tel. 04 90 92 15 48, www.masdescarassins.com, info@masdescarassins.com).
$$ Mas des Tourterelles Chambres, a Provençal farmhouse in a pleasant neighborhood, is a 10-minute walk from the town center. It has six sharp rooms and an apartment, pool, and small garden with outdoor picnic facilities including a fridge (2-night minimum, air-con in top-floor rooms—others don’t need it, 21 Chemin de la Combette, tel. 09 54 64 83 30 or mobile 06 15 87 24 55, www.masdestourterelles.com, contact@masdestourterelles.com). Turn right at the top of Place de la République onto Chemin de la Combette; after 400 yards look for the brown sign down a lane on the left (just after the second speed bump).
$$ Hôtel du Soleil,** a 10-minute walk from St-Rémy’s center, is a sharp hotel, with fresh white stone and beige decor throughout. Its spotless rooms cluster around a courtyard/parking area and pool (five rooms have small terraces, a block above the TI at 35 Avenue Pasteur, tel. 04 90 92 00 63, www.hotelsoleil.com, info@hotelsoleil.com).
$ Sommeil des Fées Chambres rents five simple, clean, and comfortable rooms in the center of St-Rémy. They also run a good restaurant, La Cuisine des Anges, described later (4 Rue du 8 Mai 1945, tel. 04 90 92 17 66, www.angesetfees-stremy.com).
(See “St-Remy Area” map and “Restaurants in St-Remy’s Old Town” map.)
The town is packed with restaurants, each trying to outdo the other. Join the evening strollers and compare.
$$$ Le Mas des Carassins offers a four-course food experience worth booking ahead. One menu is prepared each night and served in a country-classy setting inside or out. Service is friendly, kids are welcome, and the cuisine is utterly delicious. Review their website to see what’s cooking before booking a table (see listing on previous page).
$ Crêperie Lou Planet, on pleasant Place Favier, is cheap and peaceful, with outdoor seating in summer, tasty crêpes, good salads, and inexpensive, good house wine. (daily April-Sept 12:00-22:00, behind Hôtel de Ville at Place Favier, next to Musée des Alpilles).
$$ Bar-Tabac des Alpilles, popular with locals, has an old-school-meets-new-world feel, with wine barrels, wood tables, and modern art. The menu offers just enough choice, including salads, plats, and a fairly priced menu. Dinner is served inside or out in two seatings, at 19:15 and 20:45; best to book ahead (daily, 21 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 90 92 02 17).
$$ Café de la Place, on Place de la République behind the parking lot, is a hit with St-Rémy’s young people (as well as aging travel writers). Come for a coffee, a drink, or a good meal of basic café fare (big terrasse, open daily, tel. 04 90 92 02 13).
$$ La Cuisine des Anges is a welcoming place serving tasty cuisine with a Mediterranean accent in a pleasant courtyard or dining room (closed Thu, 4 Rue du 8 Mai 1945, tel. 04 90 92 17 66).
$$$ L’Aile ou la Cuisse is St-Rémy’s vintage bistro, with a warm, classy interior and traditional cuisine (daily, 5 Rue de la Commune, tel. 04 32 62 00 25).
The Camargue region, occupying the vast delta of the Rhône River, is one of Europe’s most important wetlands. This marshy area exists where the Rhône splits into two branches (big and little), just before it flows into the Mediterranean. Over the millennia, a steady flow of sediment has been deposited at the mouth of the rivers—thoroughly land-locking villages that once faced the sea.
Since World War II, farmers have converted large northern tracts of the Camargue to rice fields, making the delta a major producer of France’s rice. Salt is the other key industry in the Camargue: You can see vast salt marshes and evaporation beds around the town of Salin de Giraud. Because the salt marshes were long considered useless, the land has remained relatively untouched, leaving it a popular nature destination today.
Today the Camargue Regional Nature Park is a protected “wild” area, where pink flamingos, wild bulls, nasty boars, nastier mosquitoes (in every season but winter—come prepared), and the famous white horses wander freely through lagoons and tall grass. The dark bulls are harder to spot than the white horses and flamingos, so go slow and make use of the viewing platforms. For more on these animals, see the sidebar.
The Camargue’s subtle wetlands beauty makes it a worthwhile joyride for naturalists. The Everglades-like scenery is a birder’s paradise, and occasional bulls and wild horses add to the enjoyment. But for avid city sightseers, this can feel like a big swamp—interesting to drive through, but where’s the excitement? The best time to visit is in spring, when the flamingos are out in full force; the worst time to visit is in summer, when birds are fewest and the mosquitoes are most abundant.
If you have children, a picnic on the long sandy beach at Plage d’Arles may be just what the doctor ordered. Also called Plage de Piemanço, this public beach is six miles (10 kilometers) after Salin de Giraud. Bring everything you might need, as there are no vendors.
If you don’t have a car, there are several ways to experience the Camargue: horseback, mountain bikes, and jeep safaris. All three options are available in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, and jeep safaris are also offered from Arles (ask at TI). Hiking is not good in the Camargue, as there are few decent trails. The best biking is across the Digue (dike) to Phare de la Gacholle.
There are two primary driving routes from Arles through the Camargue: to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, and toward Salin de Giraud.
My favorite route is toward Salin de Giraud (see the “Near Arles” map at the start of this chapter): Leave Arles driving clockwise on its ring road, then find signs to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer and join D-570. Skip the D-36 turnoff to Salin de Giraud (you’ll return along this route). After about 3.5 miles (6 kilometers), enthusiasts can consider a stop at the Camargue Museum (described later). Next, continue along D-570 past swampy rice fields, then turn left on D-37 and follow it as it skirts the Etang de Vaccarès lagoon. The lagoon is off-limits, but this area has opportunities to get out of the car for views and to smell the marshes (look for viewing stands, but any dirt turnoff works). Turn right off D-37 onto the tiny road at Villeneuve, following signs for C-134 to La Capelière and La Fiélouse (poorly marked—it’s where D-36b leads back to Arles).
Make time for a stop at La Capelière (headquarters for Camargue sightseers), where you can pick up a good map, ask the staff questions, and enjoy an exhibit (small fee, handheld English explanations) and one-mile walking trail with some English information on the Camargue (daily 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, Oct-March until 17:00). Birders can check the register to see what birds have been spotted recently (observations in English are in red), and can buy the Camargue booklet in English.
The best part of this drive (particularly in spring) is the next stretch to and around La Digue de la Mer, about six scenic miles past La Capelière, where you’re most likely to witness the memorable sight of platoons of flamingos in flight. At La Digue de la Mer, get out of your car and walk a few hundred yards past the pavement’s end, where the dirt road curves left, to reach a good spot. This is a critical reproduction area for flamingos (about 13,000 couples produce 5,000 offspring annually). If you rented a mountain bike, now would be the right time to use it: It’s about eight bumpy but engaging miles between water and sand dunes to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
From here, most will want to retrace their route back to Villeneuve, then continue straight onto D-36b, which leads back to Arles.
Buses serve the Camargue (stopping at the Camargue Museum and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer) from Arles’ bus or train station (bus #20, 6/day Mon-Sat, 3/day Sun, one hour, tel. 08 10 00 13 26, www.lepilote.com). Buses and trains also serve Aigues-Mortes (best from Nîmes, see next page).
Located in a traditional Camargue barn on the road to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, this well-designed folk museum does a good job of describing the natural features and cultural traditions of the Camargue. The costumes, tools, and helpful exhibits come with some English explanations (look for handouts and small screens). A two-mile nature trail, picnic tables, and a WC round out the amenities.
Cost and Hours: €5; daily 9:00-12:30 & 13:00-18:00, shorter hours and closed Tue in off-season; 8 miles from Arles on D-570 toward Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, at Mas du Pont de Rousty farmhouse; tel. 04 90 97 10 82, www.parc-camargue.fr.
At the western end of the Camargue lies this whitewashed, Spanish-feeling seafront town with acres of flamingos, bulls, and horses at its doorstep. From the bus stop, walk to the church (10 minutes) to get oriented. The place is so popular that it’s best avoided on weekends and during holidays. It’s a French Coney Island—a trinket-selling, perennially windy place.
The town is also famous as a mecca for the Roma (Gypsies). Every May, Roma from all over Europe pile in their caravans and migrate to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer to venerate the town’s statue of Saint Sarah. Legend has it that Mary Magdalene made landfall here in a boat with no oars after an epic journey across the Mediterranean from Egypt. Fleeing persecution for practicing the new and unpopular Christian faith, she was accompanied by two other “Stes-Maries”: Mary of Clopas, the mother of the apostle James the Less, and Mary Salome, the mother of the apostles James the Great and John. Also in the boat was “Black Sarah,” an Egyptian servant. Sarah collected alms for the poor; over time, her request for handouts became associated with the Roma people, who embrace her as their patron saint (the name Gypsy comes from the label Europeans gave those who came across from Egypt—Gyptians). Today’s impressive spectacle to honor Sarah is like a sprawling flea market spilling out from the town for two weeks.
Tourist Information: Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer’s TI is located along its waterfront promenade (daily 9:00-19:00, shorter hours in off-season, 5 Avenue Van Gogh, tel. 04 90 97 82 55, www.saintesmaries.com).
Sights and Activities: Outside of May, the town of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer has little to offer except its beachfront promenade, bullring, and towering five-belled fortified church. The church interior is worth a look for its unusual decorations and artifacts, including the statue of Saint Sarah (small fee to climb to roof for Camargue and sea views). Avoid the women with flowers and the assertive palm readers, who often cluster near the church.
Most tourists come to take a horse, a jeep, or a bike into the Camargue—and there’s no lack of outfits ready to take you for a ride. The TIs in Arles and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer have long lists. Rental bikes (for the ride out to La Digue de la Mer) and advice on the best routes are available at Le Vélo Saintois (€20/day, 19 Rue de la République in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, tel. 04 90 97 74 56, www.levelosaintois.com). Jerry Perkins offers Jeep excursions at Nature et Découverte (2-hour trips from €40, pickup in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, mobile 06 12 44 64 74, www.visite-camargue.com). Les Cabanes de Cacharel gives horseback tours (€22 for one-hour ride, Route de Cacharel near Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, tel. 04 90 97 84 10, www.cabanesdecacharel.com, info@camargueacheval.com).
This curiously situated walled city, on the western edge of the Camargue (20 miles from Nîmes or from Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer), was built by Louis IX as a jumping-off point for his Crusades to the Holy Land. Although Aigues-Mortes was designed as a strategically situated royal port city, it was actually never near the sea. Ships reached it via canals that were dug through an immense lagoon—a lagoon that silted up before long, making the port aspect of Aigues-Mortes a losing proposition. The name Aigues-Mortes means “dead waters.”
Today its tall towers and thick fortifications seem oddly out of place, surrounded by nothing but salt marshes and flamingos. Still it provides the easiest glimpse into the Camargue thanks to good train and bus service (best from Nîmes; I’d skip this place on weekends and in high season unless you need more souvenirs and crowded streets). The entire length of its mighty rampart walls can be walked in an hour (€8.50 entry); the walls offer good views into the Camargue and salt fields that generate hills of salt.
Getting There: Drivers going between Nîmes and Arles can detour to Aigues-Mortes for a quick and easy taste of the Camargue. Aigues-Mortes and Nîmes are linked by buses (6/day, 50 minutes) and trains (6/day, 45 minutes).