France’s Answer to Italy’s Tuscany
Orientation to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Activities and Sights in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Sleeping in and near Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Villages and Sights South of Roussillon
Villages and Sights East of Roussillon
Just 30 miles east of Avignon, the Luberon region hides some of France’s most captivating hill towns and sensuous landscapes. Those intrigued by Peter Mayle’s best-selling A Year in Provence love joyriding through the region, connecting I-could-live-here villages, crumbled castles, and meditative abbeys. Mayle’s book describes the ruddy local culture from an Englishman’s perspective as he buys a stone farmhouse, fixes it up, and adopts the region as his new home. A Year in Provence is a great read while you’re here—or, better, get it as an audiobook and listen while you drive.
The Luberon terrain in general (much of which is a French regional natural park) is as enticing as its villages. Gnarled vineyards and wind-sculpted trees separate tidy stone structures from abandoned buildings—little more than rock piles—that challenge city slickers to fix them up. Mountains of limestone bend along vast ridges, while colorful hot-air balloons survey the scene from above. The wind is an integral part of life here. The infamous mistral wind, finishing its long ride in from Siberia, hits like a hammer (see the sidebar on here).
There are no obligatory museums, monuments, or vineyards in the Luberon. Treat this area like a vacation from your vacation. Downshift your engine. Brake for views, and lose your car to take a walk. Get on a first-name basis with a village.
To enjoy the ambience of the Luberon, you’ll want at least one night and a car (only Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is easily accessible by train and bus). Allow a half-day for Isle-sur-la-Sorgue if it’s market day (less time if not). Add more time if you want to paddle the Sorgue River or pedal between villages. You’ll also want at least a full day for the Luberon villages. Many find that two or three hill towns is the right dose to appreciate their sometimes subtle differences.
For the ultimate Luberon experience, drivers should base themselves in or near Roussillon or near Bonnieux. To lose all sight of tourists, set up in Oppède-le Vieux, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, or Buoux.
If you lack wheels or prefer streams to hills and like a little more action, stay in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, located within striking distance of Avignon and on the edge of the Luberon. Adequate train service from Avignon and Marseille, and some bus service, connects Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with the real world. Level terrain, quiet, tree-lined roads, and nearby villages make Isle-sur-la-Sorgue good for biking.
The village of Lourmarin works as a southern base for visiting Luberon sights, as well as Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, and Marseille. Patient travelers can take a bus from Aix-en-Provence to reach Lourmarin.
By Car: Luberon roads are scenic and narrow. With no major landmarks, it’s easy to get lost—and you will get lost—but getting lost is the point. Consider buying the Michelin map #332 or #527 to navigate, and look for free maps available at local TIs. Popular towns charge a small fee to park. Expect headaches parking in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue during its market days.
If connecting this region with the Côtes du Rhône, avoid driving through Carpentras (bad traffic, confusing signage). If you’re in a hurry, use the autoroute between Cavaillon and Orange. If time is not an issue, drive via Mont Ventoux—one of Provence’s most spectacular routes (see end of previous chapter).
By Bus: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is connected with Avignon’s town center by the Trans Vaucluse bus line #6 (12/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 45 minutes, central stop—called Robert Vasse—is near the post office in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, ask for schedule at TI or download French-only schedule from www.voyages-raoux.fr/lignes/index.php). Buses also connect Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with the Marseille airport (4/day direct, 2 hours, www.info-ler.fr, look for Carpentras-Marseille line). Buses link Lourmarin with Aix-en-Provence (3/day Mon-Sat, 1/day Sun, 1.5 hours, www.pacamobilite.fr). Without a car or minivan tour, skip the more famous hill towns of the Luberon.
By Train: Trains get you to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (station called L’Isle-Fontaine de Vaucluse) from Avignon (8/day on weekdays, 5/day on weekends, 30 minutes) or from Marseille (6/day, 1.5 hours). If you’re day-tripping by train, check return times before leaving the station.
By Minivan Tour: I list several minivan tour companies and private guides who can guide you through this marvelous region (see “Tours in Provence” on here).
By Taxi: Contact Luberon Taxi (based in Maubec off D-3, mobile 06 08 49 40 57, www.luberontaxi.com).
By Bike: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue makes a good base for biking, with level terrain and good rental options. Hardy bikers can ride from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to Gordes, then to Roussillon, connecting other villages in a full-day loop ride (30 miles round-trip to Roussillon and back, with lots of hills). Several appealing villages are closer to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (see “Biking” under the “Near Isle-sur-la-Sorgue” section, later). Vélo Services can help you plan a route and will deliver a rental bike anywhere in the Luberon (see “Helpful Hints,” later). Rentbike Luberon is based in Bonnieux but delivers electric and road bikes (daily, mobile 07 78 68 34 94, www.rentbikescooterluberon.com). Sun-e-Bike rents electric bikes and has a network of partners with spare batteries scattered across the Luberon, extending the range of your e-bike trip. They can also arrange bike tours and shuttle your bags between hotels (1 Avenue Clovis Hugues in Bonnieux, tel. 04 90 74 09 96, www.sun-e-bike.com).
Monday: Cavaillon (produce and antiques/flea market)
Tuesday: Gordes, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, and Lacoste (all small)
Wednesday: Sault (produce and antiques/flea market)
Thursday: Roussillon (cute) and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (big, but still smaller than its Sunday market)
Friday: Lourmarin (very good) and Bonnieux (pretty good)
Saturday: Apt (huge produce and antiques/flea market)
Sunday: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (granddaddy of them all, produce and antiques/flea market) and Coustellet (very good and less touristy)
This sturdy market town—literally, “Island on the Sorgue River”—sits within a split in its crisp, happy little river at the foot of the Luberon. It’s a workaday town that feels refreshingly real after so many adorable villages. It also makes a good base for exploring the Luberon (15 minutes by car, doable by hardy bikers) and Avignon (30 minutes by car or train) and can work for exploring the Côtes du Rhône by car (allow an hour to Vaison-la-Romaine).
After the arid cities and villages elsewhere in Provence, the presence of water at every turn is a welcome change. In Isle-sur-la-Sorgue—called the “Venice of Provence”—the Sorgue River’s extraordinarily clear and shallow flow divides like cells, producing water, water everywhere. The river has long nourished the region’s economy. The fresh spring water of the Sorgue’s many branches has provided ample fish, irrigation for crops, and power for local industries for centuries. Today, antique shops power the town’s economy—every other shop seems to sell some kind of antique.
Although Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is renowned for its market days (Sun and Thu), it’s an otherwise pleasantly average town with no important sights and a steady trickle of tourism. It’s lively on weekends but calm most weeknights. The town revolves around its river, the church square, and two pedestrian-only streets, Rue de la République and Rue Carnot.
The TI has an essential town map, hiking information (ask about trails accessible by short drives), biking itineraries, and a line on rooms in private homes, all of which are outside town (April-Sept Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-18:00, until 17:30 Oct-March, Sun 9:00-12:30; in town center next to church, tel. 04 90 38 04 78, www.oti-delasorgue.fr).
By Car: Traffic is a mess and parking is a headache on market days (all day Sun and Thu morning). Circle the ring road and look for parking signs. There are several lots just west of the roundabout at Le Bassin. Parking les Névons is closest but you’ll pay. You’ll find free parking lots behind the train station and along Quai Clovis (see the “Isle-sur-la-Sorgue” map for all parking options). You’ll also pass freestyle parking on roads leaving the city. Don’t leave anything visible in your car.
By Train: Remember that the train station is called “L’Isle-Fontaine de Vaucluse.” To reach my recommended hotels, walk straight out of the station and turn right on the ring road.
By Bus: The bus from Avignon drops you near the post office (ask driver for “La Poste”), a block from the recommended Hôtel les Névons.
Shop Hours: The antique shops this town is famous for are open Friday afternoon to Monday only.
Laundry: A laverie automatique is in the town center, just off Rue de la République on Impasse de l’Hôtel de Palerme (open 24/7). Another, perhaps easier for drivers, is at the Centre Commercial Super U supermarket (daily 9:00-19:00, on the ring road at the roundabout, Cours Fernande Peyre).
Bike Rental: The TI has a good list. Kvelo is in the center of town (4 Rue de la République, tel. 04 90 38 59 30, www.kvelo-rent.com). Luberon Biking, in the nearby village of Velleron, can also deliver electric or standard bikes (daily, tel. 04 90 90 14 62, www.luberon-biking.fr).
Taxi: For a local cab call 06 43 54 15 48. Luberon Taxi is handy for tours but not based in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (tel. 04 90 76 70 08, mobile 06 08 49 40 57, www.luberontaxi.com).
Public WC: A WC is in the parking lot between the post office and the Hôtel les Névons.
(See “Isles-sur-la-Sorgue” map.)
The town has crystal-clear water babbling under pedestrian bridges stuffed with flower boxes, and its old-time carousel is always spinning. For this self-guided wander (shown on the “Isle-sur-la-Sorgue” map), navigate by the town’s splintered streams and nine mossy waterwheels, which, while still turning, power only memories of the town’s wool and silk industries.
• Start your tour at the church next to the TI—where all streets seem to converge—and make forays into the town from there. Go first to the church.
Notre-Dame des Anges: This 12th-century church has a colorful Baroque interior and feels too big for today’s town. Walk in. The curls and swirls and gilded statues date from an era that was all about Louis XIV, the Sun King. This is propagandist architecture, designed to wow the faithful into compliance. (It was made possible thanks to profits generated from the town’s river-powered industries.) When you enter a church like this, the heavens should open up and assure you that whoever built it had celestial connections (daily 10:00-12:00 & 15:15-17:00, Mass on Sun at 10:30).
Turn right outside the church then notice the buildings’ faded facades around you, recalling their previous lives (fabrique de chaussures was a shoemaker; meubles means furniture; 3 étages d’exposition means 3 showroom floors). Admire Fauque Beyret’s antique storefront. Those big porches allowed goods to be sold outside, rain or shine. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue retains a connection to its past uncommon in this renovation-happy region.
• Wander down Rue Danton, the narrow street to the right of the faded meubles building, to lose the crowds. Keep going until you find...
Three Waterwheels: These big, forgotten waterwheels have been in business here since the 1200s, when they were first used for grinding flour. Paper, textile, silk, and woolen mills would later find their power from this river. At its peak, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue had 70 waterwheels; in the 1800s, the town competed with Avignon as Provence’s cloth-dyeing and textile center. Those stylish Provençal fabrics and patterns you see for sale everywhere were made possible by this river.
• Double back to the church, turn left under the arcade, then find the small stream just past the TI. Breakaway streams like this run under the town like subways run under Paris. Take a right on the first street after the stream; it leads under a long arch (along Rue J. J. Rousseau). Look up for more faded advertisements (bains, douches, and chambres meublées means baths, showers, and furnished rooms). Follow this straight, and veer slightly right at Place F. Buisson onto Place Rose Goudard (likely crowded with parked cars), and walk to the main river. Then turn left and walk along the many café terraces until you come to...
Le Bassin: Literally translated as a “pond,” this is where the Sorgue River crashes into the town and separates into many branches. Track as many branches as you can see (the Franck Provost hair salon hides a big one), and then find the round lookout point for the best perspective (carefully placed lights make this a beautiful sight after dark). Fishing was the town’s main industry until the waterwheels took over. In the 1300s, local fishermen provided the pope with his fresh-fish quota. They trapped them in nets and speared them while standing on skinny, flat-bottomed boats. Several streets are named after the fish they caught—including Rue de l’Aiguille (“Eel Street”) and Rue des Ecrevisses (“Crayfish Street”).
The sound of the rushing water reminds us of the power that rivers can generate. With its source (a spring) a mere five miles away, the Sorgue River never floods and has a constant flow and temperature in all seasons. Despite its exposed (flat) location, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue prospered in the Middle Ages, thanks to the natural protection this river provided. Walls with big moats once ran along the river, but they were destroyed during the French Revolution.
• Cross the busy roundabout, and walk to the orange Delices de Luberon store. Find the small tasting table with scrumptious tapenades and olives. Turn right behind the store to find the river and take a refreshing...
Riverfront Stroll: Follow the main river upstream, along the bike/pedestrian lane, as far as you like. The road meanders about a mile, following the serene course of the river, past waterfront homes and beneath swaying trees. It ends at the Hôtel le Pescador and a riverfront café. The wide and shallow Partage des Eaux, where the water divides before entering Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, is perfect for a cool swim on a hot day.
The town erupts into a carnival-like market frenzy each Sunday and Thursday, with hardy crafts and local produce. The Sunday market is astounding and famous for its antiques; the Thursday market is still impressive but focused more on produce and bric-a-brac than antiques (see market tips in the Shopping chapter).
Drop into this modern sculpture gallery to see what’s on exhibit (free, May-Oct Thu-Mon 11:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue-Wed and Nov-April, on the river at 7 Avenue des Quatre Otages, tel. 04 90 95 23 70, www.villadatris.com).
The town’s other main sight is a fun and funky toy museum with more than 300 dolls displayed in three small rooms. Most dolls date from 1880 to 1930.
Cost and Hours: €3.50, kids-€1.50; daily 11:00-18:00; shorter hours and closed Mon off-season; at 26 Rue Carnot down a short alley, tel. 04 90 20 97 31, www.poupeesdelisle.com.
You’ll read and hear a lot about this overrun village, impressively located at the source of the Sorgue River, where the medieval Italian poet Petrarch mourned for his love, Laura. The river seems to magically appear from nowhere (the actual source is a murky, green waterhole) and flows through the town past a lineup of cafés, souvenir shops, and wall-to-river tourists. The setting is beautiful—with cliffs jutting to the sky and a ruined castle above—but the trip is worth it only if the spring is flowing (usually only after several days of hard rain or during early spring snow melt). Sans flowing spring, this is the most overrated sight in France. Ask your hotelier if the spring is active (Est-ce que la source diverse?), and arrive early or late to avoid crowds. It’s a 30-minute bike ride here from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (about five miles).
Arriving by car, you’ll pay to park (€4-5), and then walk about 20 minutes along the sparkling river to la source (the spring), located in a cave at the base of the cliff. (It’s an uphill hike for the last part.) The spring itself is the very definition of anticlimactic, unless it’s surging. At those times, it’s among the most prolific water producers in the world, with a depth no one has yet been able to determine.
The path to the spring is lined with distractions. A worthwhile stop is at the Moulin à Papier, a reproduction of a 17th-century paper mill, where you’ll see the value of harnessing the river’s power. In the mill, a 22-foot-diameter paddle wheel turns five times a minute, driving hammers that pound paper for up to 36 hours (free, daily 9:00-19:00). As you watch the hammers pound away, imagine Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s waterwheels and the industries they once powered. The shop inside sells paper in every size. The best riverfront café seats are at Philip’s Café (located after Moulin à Papier).
A better way to travel to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is to canoe down the river. If you’re really on vacation, take this five-mile, two-hour trip. The guide escorts small groups in canoes (or you can go it alone), starting in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and ending in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue; you’ll return to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse by shuttle bus (call for departure times; ask about shuttle service from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue). The company, Kayaks Verts, is a family operation (late April-mid-Oct, €19/person, tel. 04 90 20 35 44, www.canoe-france.com/en/sorgue). To combine bike and boat, ask about shuttling your rental bikes back to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue while you float from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (see suggested bike route below).
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is ideally situated for short biking forays into the mostly level terrain. Pick up a biking itinerary at the TI, or ask your bike-rental shop for suggestions. These towns make easy biking destinations from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: Velleron (5 flat miles north, a tiny version of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with waterwheels, fountains, and an evening farmers market Mon-Sat 18:00-20:00); Lagnes (3 miles east, a pretty and well-restored hill town with views from its ruined château); and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (5 gentle, uphill miles northeast, described earlier). Allow 30 miles and many hills for the round-trip ride to Roussillon.
Pickings are slim for good sleeps in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, though the few I’ve listed provide reliable values.
$$$ La Prévôté*** has the town’s highest-priced digs. Its five meticulously decorated rooms—located above a classy restaurant—are adorned in earth tones, with high ceilings, a few exposed beams, and carefully selected furnishings. Séverine manages the hotel while chef-hubby Jean-Marie controls the kitchen (includes breakfast, limited check-in/check-out times, no elevator, rooftop deck with hot tub, no parking, one block from the church at 4 Rue J. J. Rousseau, tel. 04 90 38 57 29, www.la-prevote.fr, contact@la-prevote.fr).
$$ Sous l’Olivier is 10 minutes from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, off D-900 near Petit Palais. Here big Julien, quiet Carole, and sons Hugo and Clovis adopt you into their sprawling old stone farmhouse, with grass to burn, a big pool, yards of chairs and lounges, and views to the Luberon range. The six rooms are big but lack air-conditioning. A good breakfast is included, and the €34 dinner is a family affair, worth every euro (3 apartments available, cash only, tel. 04 90 20 33 90, www.chambresdhotesprovence.com, souslolivier@orange.fr). Heading east on D-900, it’s near the village of Petit Palais, just after the David Ferronerie shop). See the “Luberon” map on here.
$ Le Pont des Aubes Chambres has two huggable rooms in an old green-shuttered farmhouse right on the river a mile from town. Borrow a bike or a canoe. From here you can cross a tiny bridge and walk 15 minutes along the river into Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Charming Martine speaks English, while husband Patrice speaks smiles (1-room apartments, cash only, a mile from town toward Apt, next to Pain d’Antan Boulangerie at 189 Route d’Apt, tel. 04 90 38 13 75, www.lepontdesaubes.com, lepontdesaubes@yahoo.fr).
$ Hôtel les Névons,*** two blocks from the center (behind the post office), is concrete motel-modern outside, with well-priced and comfortable-enough rooms within, a roof deck with a small pool, and quick access to the town center (family rooms, air-con, elevator, free and safe parking, 205 Chemin des Névons, tel. 04 90 20 72 00, www.hotel-les-nevons.com, hotel-les-nevons@orange.fr). Easygoing Benjamin’s in charge.
$ Hôtel les Terrasses by David et Louisa** rents eight rooms over a pleasant restaurant right on Le Bassin. Several rooms look out over the river, most have some traffic noise and queen-size beds (air-con, 2 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, tel. 04 90 38 03 16, louisaetdavid@orange.fr).
(See “Isles-sur-la-Sorgue” map.)
Cheap and mediocre restaurants are a dime a dozen in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. You’ll see several brasseries on the river, good for views and basic café fare. Dining on the river is a unique experience in this arid land, and shopping for the perfect table is half the fun. To assemble a riverside picnic, head to Rue de la République, which has bakeries, butchers, a traiteur (deli), cheesemongers, a wine shop, and a grocery store.
For a cheap breakfast or a light riverside meal find $ La Passerelle, where charming Jennifer and Vincent serve salads, quiche, a plat du jour, and more (daily until 20:00, summers until 22:00, 18 Quai Jean Jaurès, mobile 06 62 18 23 57).
Begin your dinner with a glass of wine at the cozy wine and cheese shop $ Chez Stéphane. Or for a light meal, order a selection of cheeses from charming Stéphane (great to share) with your wine and call it good (wine barrel tables outside or find the bar hiding in the rear; daily 9:30-19:30, Fri-Sat until 21:00, 12 Rue de la République, tel. 04 90 20 70 25).
$$ Les Terrasses by David et Louisa is an appealing riverside wine-bar-bistro with a warm interior and ample choices. The cuisine is a blend of French traditional and Provençal (closed Wed, 2 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, tel. 04 90 38 03 16).
$$ Le Nego is a relaxed place with generous outdoor seating and a large selection of reasonably priced, regional fare that works well for riverfront dining (daily, 12 Quai Jean Jaurès, tel. 04 90 20 88 83).
$$$$ La Balade des Saveurs is a refreshing change from the many run-of-the-mill riverfront places. Here, the owners deliver fresh, fairly priced Provençal cuisine at riverside tables or in their elegantly sky-lit interior (closed Mon-Tue, 3 Quai Jean Jaurès, tel. 04 90 95 27 85, www.balade-des-saveurs.com).
$$$$ La Prévôté is the place in town to do it up in the elegant French style. Its lovely dining room is country-classy but not stuffy, and the cuisine blends traditional French with regional specialties. A stream runs under the restaurant, visible through glass windows (closed Tue, on narrow street that runs along left side of church as you face it, 4 Rue J. J. Rousseau, tel. 04 90 38 57 29, www.la-prevote.fr).
Supermarkets: There’s a handy Casino market at 12 Rue de la République and larger Utile market on the main ring road, near the train station (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun until 13:00).
A 15-minute drive east of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue brings you to this protected area, where canyons and ridgelines rule, and land developers take a back seat. Still-proud hill towns guard access to winsome valleys, while carefully managed vineyards (producing inexpensive wines) play hopscotch with cherry groves, lavender fields, and cypress trees.
About 35 years ago, Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence nudged tourism in this area into overdrive, and his quintessential Provence includes many of the popular villages and sights described in this chapter. While the hill towns can be seen as subtly different variations on the same theme, each has a distinct character. Look for differences: the color of shutters, the pattern of stones, the way flowers are planted, or the number of tourist boutiques. Every village has something to offer—it’s up to you to discover and celebrate it.
I like sleeping in or near Roussillon. By village standards, Roussillon is lively and struggles to manage its popularity. When restaurant hunting, read descriptions of the villages in this chapter—many good finds are embedded in the countryside. For aerial views high above this charmed land, consider a hot-air balloon trip.
With a car and one full day, I’d linger in Roussillon in the morning (and explore its ochre cliffs), then admire the Julien Bridge before having lunch nearby in Lacoste or Bonnieux. After lunch, continue the joyride via Ménerbes to Oppède-le-Vieux, then return through Coustellet and Gordes. With a second full day, I’d start by climbing the Fort de Buoux and consider lunch at the Auberge des Sequins near the fort. From Buoux, I’d continue to Saignon and Viens (good restaurant), then loop back via Le Colorado Provençal and St-Saturnin-lès-Apt.
I’ve described sights at each stop, but you’ll need to be selective—you can’t (and don’t need to) see them all. Read through your options and choose the ones that appeal most. Slow down and get to know a few places well, rather than dashing between every stop you can cram in. The best sight is the dreamy landscape between the villages.
With all the trendy charm of Santa Fe on a hilltop, photogenic Roussillon requires serious camera and café time. Roussillon has been a protected village since 1943 and has benefited from a complete absence of modern development. An enormous deposit of ochre, which gives the earth and its buildings that distinctive reddish color, provided this village with its economic base until shortly after World War II. This place is popular; visit early before crowds arrive and while the rising sun highlights the ochre cliffs, or come late and stay for dinner.
Roussillon sits atop Mont Rouge (“Red Mountain”) at about 1,000 feet above sea level. Exposed ochre cliffs form the village’s southern limit. There’s a small market on Thursdays near the TI.
Tourist Information: The little TI is in the center, across from the Chez David restaurant. Say bonjour to sweet Pascale. Hotel hunters can leaf through their binders describing area hotels and chambres d’hôtes. Walkers should get info on trails from Roussillon to nearby villages (TI hours are unreliable, usually Mon-Sat April-Oct 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, Nov-March 14:00-17:30, closed Sun year-round, Place de la Poste, tel. 04 90 05 60 25, http://otroussillon.pagesperso-orange.fr).
Parking: Parking lots are available at every entry to the village (free if you’re staying overnight and have arranged it with your hotel). Parking des Ocres (also called “P2”) is the largest lot on the hill toward the ochre cliffs. Day-trippers should head straight here, as spots are more available and the view of Roussillon is striking. Leave nothing of value visible in your car.
Parking Sablons is next to the recommended Maison des Ocres. Parking St-Michel is below the town on the way to Joucas and Gordes.
(See “Roussillon” map.)
This quick self-guided walk will take you through Roussillon’s village to its ochre cliffs.
• To begin the walk, climb from any parking lot to the village center, cross the cute square, and then climb under the bell tower and the church. Continue past the church to the summit of...
Find the orientation table and the viewpoint, often complete with a howling mistral wind. During the Middle Ages, a castle occupied this space on the top of the appropriately named Red Mountain (Mont Rouge), and watched over the village below. Although nothing remains of the castle today, the strategic advantage of this site is clear. Find naked Mont Ventoux and count how many villages you can identify, and then notice how little sprawl there is in the valley below. Because the Luberon has been declared a natural reserve (Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon), development is strictly controlled. This view has not changed in the many years that I’ve been coming here. Nice.
Stroll back to the church. Duck into the pretty 11th-century Church of St. Michel, and appreciate the natural air-conditioning and the well-worn center aisle. The white interior tells you that the stone came from elsewhere, and the WWI memorial plaque over the side door suggests a village devastated by the war (more than 40 people from little Roussillon died).
On leaving the church, look across the way to the derelict building, a reminder of Roussillon’s humble roots. After World War II, when the demand for ochre faded, this was a dusty, desolate village with zero tourist appeal. Adding to the town’s economic woes, many residents fled for an easier life below, with fewer steps and modern conveniences. Abandoned buildings like this presented a serious problem (common throughout France)...until tourists discovered Roussillon, and folks began reinvesting in the village. Still, many of Roussillon’s residents live very simply and could not imagine paying for the hotels we recommend. And that building across the way? It’s still looking for a buyer. Detour behind the decrepit building to the left, down a small lane to find the Chemin de Ronde, with terrific views of the Luberon and Gordes from atop the medieval walls.
• Return to the church and continue down to the village.
Notice the clamped-iron beams that shore up old walls. Examine the different hues of yellow and orange. These lime-finished exteriors, called chaux (literally, “limes”), need to be redone about every 10 years. Locals choose their exact color...but in this town of ochre, it’s never white. The church tower that you walk under once marked the entrance to the fortified town. Just before dropping down to the square, turn right and find the gigantic 150-year-old grapevine that decorates the recommended Restaurant la Treille. This is what you get when you don’t prune.
Linger over un café, or—if it’s later in the day—un pastis, in the picturesque village square (Place de la Mairie). Watch the stream of shoppers. Is anyone playing boules at the opposite end? You could paint the entire town without ever leaving the red-and-orange corner of your palette. Many do. While Roussillon receives scads of day-trippers, mornings and evenings are romantically peaceful on this square.
• With the cafés on your right, drop downhill past the lineup of shops and turn right past the TI to find the small parking lot just beyond. Animals grazed here for centuries. It was later turned into a school playground. When tourists outnumbered students, it became a parking lot. Walk past the parking lot and head left uphill, past picture-perfect views back to Roussillon. At the top, large displays on metal easels provide excellent background about ochre and an ideal introduction to the...
Roussillon was Europe’s capital for ochre production until World War II. A stroll to the south end of town, beyond the upper parking lot, shows you why: Roussillon sits on the world’s largest known ochre deposit. Two radiant orange paths lead around the richly colored, Bryce Canyon-like cliffs (allow 35 minutes for the shorter path and 55 minutes for the longer one). If you choose the shorter route, follow the longer route for a few minutes uphill after the trails separate to a beautiful cliff view (then double back). The colors are vibrant in the morning when the sun is lower in the eastern sky and the cliffs are bathed in light.
Ochre is made of iron oxide and clay. When combined with sand, it creates the yellowish-red pigments you see in these buildings. Although ochre is also produced in the US and Italy, the quality of France’s ochre is considered le best.
The value of Roussillon’s ochre cliffs was known even in Roman times. Once excavated, the clay ochre was rinsed with water to separate it from sand, then bricks of the stuff were dried and baked for deeper hues. The procedure for extracting the ochre did not change much over 2,000 years, until ochre mining became industrialized in the late 1700s. Used primarily for wallpaper and linoleum, ochre use reached its zenith just before World War II. (After that, cheaper substitutes took over.)
Cost and Hours: €2.50, €7.50 combo-ticket with Ochre Conservatory—described next; May-June and Sept 9:30-18:30, July-Aug 9:00-19:30, shorter hours off-season, closed Jan. Beware: Light-colored clothing (especially shoes) and orange powder don’t mix.
For a good introduction to the history and uses of ochre, visit this intriguing reconstructed ochre factory. Grab a pamphlet to follow the well-done self-guided tour, which shows how ochre is converted from an ore to a pigment (allow 45 minutes). Your visit ends with a good bookshop and a chance to try your hand at ochre painting.
Cost and Hours: €7, €7.50 combo-ticket with ochre cliffs, daily 9:00-18:00 but closed for lunch, July-Aug until 19:00, about a half-mile below Roussillon toward Apt on D-104, tel. 04 90 05 66 69, www.okhra.com.
Just below Roussillon, on the road to Joucas, this welcoming winery has been making excellent wines for about 15 years. Pascale runs the tasting room, and her husband makes wines to please every palate: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and sweet. Pop into the barrel room where they occasionally exhibit local artists’ work. They don’t mind if you picnic on the property afterward.
Cost and Hours: Prices vary by wine, daily April-Oct 10:00-19:30, Nov-March and Wed until 18:00, tel. 04 90 05 74 87, www.domainedetara.com.
Ply the calm morning air above the Luberon in a hot-air balloon. The Vol-Terre outfit offers a flight that includes a picnic and champagne (€230, around 1 hour in balloon, allow 3 hours total, maximum 4 passengers, reserve a few days ahead, mobile 06 03 54 10 92, www.montgolfiere-luberon.com).
Bigger than its sister hill towns, this surprisingly quiet village seems content to be away from the tourist path. Climb the small lanes up the hill to the panoramic view and windmill. From there, drop back down through the arch and glide down, passing the old château. Notice how many of the historic buildings are built right on top of thick rock strata. Consider having a nice meal in one of Goult’s several good restaurants—where you’ll compete with locals rather than tourists for a table. $$ Café de la Poste is ideal for an outdoor lunch (no dinner served, tel. 04 90 72 23 23). Trendier $$$ La Bartavelle is the place in town to dine with warm ambience and beautifully presented dishes, but is darn popular (book a table a week in advance, closed Tue-Wed, 29 Rue du Cheval Blanc, tel. 04 90 72 33 72).
The TI posts a list of hotels and chambres d’hôtes. Parking is free if you sleep in Roussillon; arrange it with your hotelier. The village offers a couple of acceptable-value accommodations.
$$$ Le Clos de la Glycine*** delivers Roussillon’s plushest accommodations with nine lovely rooms located dead-center in the village (some view rooms, air-con, parking options, located at the recommended restaurant Chez David—they prefer you pay for half-pension, across from the TI on Place de la Poste, tel. 04 90 05 60 13, www.luberon-hotel.fr, contact@luberon-hotel.fr).
$$ Maison des Ocres,*** well located on the edge of the village center at the Sablons parking area, is a stylish place with a spacious lounge, handsome, well-configured rooms (many with decks or balconies), a few good family rooms, and a lovely pool (private parking, Route de Gordes, tel. 04 90 05 60 50, www.lamaisondesocres-hotel.com, contact@lamaisondesocres-hotel.com). Coming from Gordes and Joucas, it’s the first building you pass in Roussillon.
These listings are for drivers only. The last two are most easily found by turning north off D-900 at the Roussillon/Les Huguets sign (the second turnoff to Roussillon coming from Avignon). Joucas and St-Saturnin-lès-Apt (both described later) also have good beds near Roussillon.
$$$ Hôtel la Clé des Champs,*** more like an elegant bed and breakfast, is a lovely nine-room Provençal splurge warmly run by René and Armelle. Carefully appointed rooms are clustered about a heated pool, there’s a hammam and hot tub, and dinners are available several days each week for €38 (between Roussillon and Joucas, off D-2 on Chemin du Garrigon, tel. 04 90 05 63 22, www.hotelcledeschamps.com, contact@hoteldeschamps.com).
$$ At Le Mas Destonge, Stéphane and Dominique welcome you into their impeccable Provençal retreat located in a small neighborhood 10 minutes from Roussillon. Their five beautifully decorated rooms come with cozy lounges, a sweet patio, a common kitchen, and a big pool (on D-227 in Hameau Des Riperts, tel. 04 90 05 63 13, www.destonge.com, destonge@gmail.com).
$$ Hôtel les Sables d’Ocre** offers 22 well-maintained, motel-esque rooms, a big pool, the greenest grass around, air-conditioning, and fair rates (a half-mile from Roussillon toward Apt at intersection of D-108 and D-104, tel. 04 90 05 55 55, www.sablesdocre.com, sablesdocre@orange.fr).
$ Le Clos des Cigales is a good forested refuge run by friendly Philippe. Of their five blue-shuttered, stylish bungalows, two are doubles and three are two-room family friendly suites with tiny kitchenettes; all have private patios facing a big pool (family rooms, includes breakfast, table tennis, hammock, 5 minutes from Roussillon toward Goult on D-104, tel. 04 90 05 73 72, www.leclosdescigales.com, philippe.lherbeil@wanadoo.fr).
(See “Roussillon” map.)
Restaurants change with the mistral here—what’s good one year disappoints the next. But I have found a few reliable places that offer a good range of prices and cuisine. Consider my suggestions (or look over my recommendations in other Luberon villages, like Goult or Joucas, each just a few minutes away by car). The Casino grocery on Avenue de la Burlière has what you need to supply your ochre-view picnic (see the “Roussillon” map).
On Place de la Poste: A good place to splurge is at $$$$ Chez David, at the recommended hotel Le Clos de la Glycine. You can enjoy a fine meal on the terrace or from an interior window table with point-blank views over the ochre cliffs (daily, Place de la Poste, tel. 04 90 05 60 13).
$$ La Treille hangs just above the village square and serves good value meals on a small terrace or under soft arches in an upstairs room. Souris d’agneau—lamb shank—is the chef’s specialty, though his daily specials are also worth considering (best to book ahead for an outside table, closed Wed, Rue du Four, tel. 04 90 05 64 47).
$ Le Bistrot de Roussillon is ideally situated on Roussillon’s delightful square and serves simple café fare at good prices. Dine at outdoor tables on the square (my favorite), inside in a pleasant dining room, or a small terrace out back with views to the ochre cliffs (daily, Place de la Mairie, tel. 04 90 05 74 45).
$ Chez Nino cascades down the hillside with three view terraces. The chef is Sicilian and his wife is Moroccan, and the simple fare combines elements of both with regional cuisine (lunch or early dinner only, daily until 19:00, a block behind the TI on Rue des Bourgades, tel. 04 90 74 29 17).
This understated, quiet, and largely overlooked village offers stone lanes with carefully arranged flowers, beautiful vistas, and well-restored homes. There’s not much to do or see here, except eat, sleep, and just be. Joucas has a recommended view café/restaurant, one pharmacy, a small grocery, a good kids’ play area, and one good-value accommodation option. Sleep here for a central location and utter silence. For views, walk past the little fountain in the center and up the steep lanes as high as you want.
Several hiking trails leave from Joucas. Gordes and Roussillon are each three miles away, uphill (allow 75 minutes at a steady pace to either). The three-mile hike up to the attractive village of Murs (which has several cafés/restaurants) is more scenic, though it’s easier in the other direction (yellow signs point the way from the top of the village). You don’t have to go far to enjoy the natural beauty on this trail.
Sleeping and Eating: Located in the center of lovely little Joucas, $ Hostellerie des Commandeurs** has quite comfortable, good-value rooms and is kid-friendly, with a big pool and a sports field/play area next door. Ask for a south-facing room (coté sud) for the best views. All rooms have showers, air-conditioning, and mini fridges (above park at village entrance, hotel open March-Oct, tel. 04 90 05 78 01, www.lescommandeurs.com, hostellerie@lescommandeurs.com). The traditional $$ restaurant offers Provençal cuisine at fair prices (restaurant closed Wed). Village kids like to hang out around the bar’s pool table.
$ La Terrasse is the place to dine on a warm evening in Joucas. A generous deck gives way to vineyard and village views where diners enjoy simple but good dishes (pizza, salads, plats du jour) and a peaceful meal with a terrific backdrop at good prices (daily, above the Hostellerie des Commandeurs, Rue Grande, tel. 04 90 75 17 98).
Le Luberon is packed with appealing villages and beautiful scenery, but it has only a handful of must-see sights. I’ve grouped them by area to make your sightseeing planning easier (see the “Luberon” map at the beginning of this chapter). The D-900 highway cuts the Luberon in half. The more popular and visited section lies above D-900 (with Roussillon and Gordes), while the villages to the south seem a bit less trampled.
Rambling the Luberon’s spaghetti network of small roads is a joy, and getting lost comes with the territory—go with it. None of the sights listed below is a must-see, but all are close to each other. Pick up a good map (Michelin maps #332 and #527 work for me).
I’d make a loop through these villages and sights, doing them in the order described below (except maybe for Gordes—which I’d save for last if you’ve already seen Roussillon). If you’re sleeping in or near Roussillon, start there (mornings are peaceful). Each town is about a 10-minute drive from the last, and the route is well signed.
The Luberon’s most impressively situated hill town is worth a quick stop to admire its setting. As you approach Gordes, veer right when you see the viewpoint icon. Get out, stroll along the road, and admire the sensational view. Now consider this: In the 1960s Gordes was a ghost town of derelict buildings with no economy, where locals led simple lives and had few ambitions. Then came the popularity of the theater festival in Avignon, bringing directors who wanted to re-create perfect Provençal villages on film. Parisians, Swiss, Brits, and a few Americans followed, willing to pay any price for their place in the Provençal sun.
Today Gordes is renovated top to bottom (notice how every stone seems perfectly placed) and filled with people who live in a world without calluses. Many Parisian big shots and moneyed foreigners invested heavily, restoring dream homes and putting property values and café prices out of sight for locals. Beyond its stunning views, the village has pretty lanes lined with trendy boutiques and restaurants but little else of interest.
The first two sights—the Abbey Notre-Dame de Sénanque and the Village des Bories—are both well marked from Gordes.
This still-functioning and beautifully situated Cistercian abbey was built in 1148 as a back-to-basics reaction to the excesses of Benedictine abbeys. The Cistercians strove to be separate from the world and to recapture the simplicity, solitude, and poverty of the early Church. To succeed required industrious self-sufficiency—a skill these monks excelled at. Their movement spread and colonized Europe with a new form of Christianity. By 1200 there were more than 500 such monasteries and abbeys in Europe.
Cost and Hours: €7.50 with or without a tour. French-only tours are mandatory daily 11:00-17:00, but individual visits are allowed Mon–Sat 9:00-11:00, or you can attend Mass at various times in the abbey’s church. There are no individual visits on Sun or holidays, and no visits at all 12:45-14:30. Reservations for tours are recommended (English booklet with translations available, see website for times, tel. 04 90 72 05 72, www.senanque.fr, visites@ndsenanque.net). Those arriving as the abbey opens find a peaceful place they can tour on their own (good English handout). Still, the interior of the abbey is not why I come; it’s worth the trip for its splendid and remote setting alone.
Dress Code: Modest dress is required for entry—shoulders and knees must be covered.
Visiting the Abbey: Come first thing and stop at a pullout for a bird’s-eye view as you descend from Gordes, then wander the abbey’s perimeter. The abbey church is always open and free (except during Mass, but you’re welcome to attend) and highlights the utter simplicity sought by these monks. In late June through much of July, the five hectares of lavender fields that surround the abbey make for breathtaking pictures and draw loads of visitors.
Abbey interior areas that you can visit include Sénanque’s church, the small cloisters, the refectory, and a chauffoir, a small heated room where monks could copy books year-round. The interior, which doesn’t measure up to the abbey’s spectacular setting, is a letdown—skip the tour and just wander the grounds.
A small monastic community still resides here. For more on monasteries, see the sidebar.
Leaving the Abbey: Leave the abbey opposite the way you arrived, following signs to Gordes, then Roussillon, then follow Murs and Joucas...and enjoy the ride.
A twisting, mile-long, stone-bordered dirt road sets the mood for this mildly entertaining open-air museum of stone huts (bories). The vertical stones you see on the walls as you approach the site were used as counterweights to keep these mortar-free walls intact. The “village” you tour is made up of dry-laid stone structures, proving that there has always been more stone than wood in this rugged region. Stone villages like this predated the Romans—some say by 2,000 years. This one was inhabited for 200 years (from about 1600 to 1800). Bories can still be seen in fields throughout the Luberon; most are now used to store tools or hay.
The Village des Bories is composed of five “hamlets.” Start with the short film (English subtitles) in the first building, then find the good English explanations upstairs that tell you all you need to know about bories. You’ll duck into several homes and see animal pens, a community oven, and more (identified in English). Study the “beehive” stone-laying method and imagine the time it took to construct. The villagers had no scaffolds or support arches—just hammers and patience.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily June-Sept 9:00-20:00, Oct-May until 17:30, tel. 04 90 72 03 48, www.levillagedesbories.com.
This postage-stamp-sized village feels lost in the valley below Gordes. It comes with two unusual sights. The adorable 12th-century Romanesque church has a remarkable necropolis around back, with tombs—many in the distinct shape of a human body, even one of a baby—carved right out of the rock on which the church was built. The Musée des Boullions is an ancient Roman olive mill displaying presses from the 1st and 16th centuries. Earnest Carole will take you on a short tour with excellent English explaining how the Romans pressed olives, how the massive 16th-century press worked, and the many uses of olive oil over the millennia. Skip the stained-glass museum that’s connected (€7.50, Wed-Mon 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue).
Originally a 16th-century flour mill, this olive oil boutique is on the busy D-900 just east of Coustellet. Moulin Saint Augustin is a property with centuries of history, but you can only enter the shop. The charming owners do their best to explain the qualities of the native olive varieties in English—yes, just like grapes, there are specific olive varieties that fare better locally (July-Aug Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sept-June Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun year-round, 2800 Route d’Apt, tel. 04 90 72 43 66, www.moulin-saintaugustin.fr).
France is littered with medieval monasteries, and Provence is no exception. Most have virtually no furnishings (they never had many), which leaves the visitor with little to reconstruct what life must have been like in these cold stone buildings a thousand years ago. A little history can help breathe life into these important yet underappreciated monuments.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, monasteries arose as refuges of peace and order in a chaotic world. While the pope got rich and famous playing power politics, monasteries worked to keep the focus on simplicity and poverty. Throughout the Middle Ages, monasteries were mediators between Man and God. In these peacefully remote abbeys, Europe’s best minds struggled with the interpretation of God’s words. Every sentence needed to be understood and applied. Answers later debated in universities were once contemplated in monasteries.
St. Benedict established the Middle Ages’ most influential monastic order (Benedictine) in Monte Cassino, Italy, in AD 529. He scheduled a rigorous program of monastic duties that combined manual labor with intellectual tasks. His movement spread north and took firm root in France, where the abbey of Cluny (Burgundy) eventually controlled more than 2,000 dependent abbeys and vied with the pope for control of the Church.
Benedictine abbeys became rich, and with wealth came excess (king-size beds and saunas). Monks lost sight of their purpose and became soft and corrupt. In the late 1100s, the determined and charismatic St. Bernard rallied the Cistercian order by going back to the original rule of St. Benedict. Cistercian abbeys thrived as centers of religious thought and exploration from the 13th through the 15th centuries.
Cistercian abbots ran their abbeys like little kingdoms, doling out punishment and food to the monks, and tools to peasant farmers. Abbeys were occupied by two groups: the favored monks from aristocratic families (such as St. Bernard) and a larger group of lay brothers from peasant stock, who were given the heaviest labor and could join only the Sunday services.
Monks’ days were broken into three activities: prayer, reading holy texts, and labor. Monks lived in silence and poverty, with few amenities—meat was forbidden, as was cable TV. In summer, they ate two daily meals—in winter, just one. Monks slept together in a single room on threadbare mats covering solid-rock floors.
With their focus on work and discipline, Cistercian abbeys became leaders of the medieval industrial revolution. Among the few literate people in Europe, monks were keepers of technological knowledge—about clocks, waterwheels, accounting, foundries, gristmills, textiles, and agricultural techniques. Abbeys became economic engines that helped drive France out of its Middle Aged funk.
As France (and Europe) slowly got its act together in the late Middle Ages, cities reemerged as places to trade and thrive. Abbeys gradually lost their relevance in a brave new humanist world. Universities became the new center of intellectual development. Kings took over abbot selection, further degrading the abbeys’ power, and Gutenberg’s movable type made monks obsolete. The French Revolution closed the book on abbatial life, with troops occupying and destroying many abbeys. The still-functioning Abbey Notre-Dame de Sénanque, near Gordes, is a rare survivor.
These villages and sights below Roussillon and D-900 feel less visited than places north of this busy road. You’ll need a good half-day to visit them all (see the “Luberon” map at the start of this chapter to get oriented). They work well in the order described below, with lunch in Bonnieux or Lacoste (for recommendations, see the “Luberon Restaurants Worth the Trip” sidebar, earlier). The first sight is situated south of Roussillon, where D-108 crosses D-900.
This delicate, three-arched bridge, named for Julius Caesar, survives as a testimony to Roman engineers—and to the importance of this rural area 2,000 years ago. It’s the only surviving bridge on what was the main road from northern Italy to Provence—the primary route used by Roman armies. The 215-foot-long Roman bridge was under construction from 27 BC to AD 14. Mortar had not yet been invented, so (as with Pont du Gard) the stones were carefully set in place. Amazingly, the bridge survives today, having outlived Roman marches, hundreds of floods, and decades of automobile traffic. A new bridge finally rerouted traffic from this beautiful structure in 2005.
Walk below the bridge. Notice how thin the layer of stone seems between the arch tops and the road. Those open niches weren’t for statues, but instead allowed water to pass through when the river ran high. (At its current trickle, that’s hard to fathom.) Walk under an arch and examine the pockmarks in the side—medieval thieves in search of free bronze stole the clamps.
Well signed halfway between the Julien Bridge and Bonnieux, this pretty winery was the setting for the film A Good Year, with Russell Crowe and French actress Marion Cotillard, but I come here for the good wines. A welcoming tasting room offers a full range of wines—from viognier and chardonnay whites to rosés and rich reds—with owner-in-waiting and winemaker Nathalie greeting guests on most weekdays. The range of taste in their reds is remarkable. Château de la Canorgue was one of the first wineries in the area to make organic wines, and their wines are now exported to many US states.
Cost and Hours: Average bottle costs €10, Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 75 81 01, www.chateaulacanorgue.com.
Spectacular from a distance, this town disappoints me up close. It lacks a pedestrian center, though the Friday-morning market briefly creates one. The main reason to visit here is to enjoy the views from a well-positioned restaurant or hotel.
Sleeping: Located in Bonnieux’s center, $$ Hôtel le Clos du Buis*** is a 10-room delight, run by eager-to-please Lydia and Sophie. Rooms are lovingly decorated, some with private decks, their veranda allows fine views over the Luberon, and the garden pool is a peaceful retreat (includes breakfast, air-con, free parking, guest kitchen, in the middle of town on Rue Victor Hugo, tel. 04 90 75 88 48, www.leclosdubuis.fr, contact@leclosdubuis).
The country-elegant chambres d’hôte $$$ Mas del Sol, between Bonnieux and Lacoste, is perfect for connoisseurs of the Luberon. Young Lucine and Richard Massol rent five bright, spacious rooms that come with views, vines, olives, and a big breakfast. The setting is unbeatable, and the stylish pool and gardens will knock your socks off (guest kitchen for family picnics, €40 three-course dinners with wine and coffee possible, tel. 04 90 75 94 80, www.mas-del-sol.com, contact@mas-del-sol.com). From D-900, take the D-36 turnoff to Bonnieux and look for Mas del Sol signs on the right after about three kilometers (two miles).
Eating: To eat with a view, find $ Les Terrasses, serving up basic café cuisine on a sensational view terrace at the top of the village (open daily for lunch and dinner, Cours Elzéar Pin, tel. 04 90 75 99 77). To dine in Provence elegance sans view, find $$$ Restaurant l’Arôme, with a formal-but-warm dining room and a streetside terrace (closed Wed, across from Hôtel le Clos du Buis at 2 Rue Lucien Blanc, tel. 04 90 75 88 62).
Little Lacoste slumbers across the valley from Bonnieux in the shadow of its looming castle. Climb through this photogenic village of arches and stone paths, passing American art students (from the Savannah College of Art and Design) showing their work. Support an American artist, learn about the art, and then keep climbing and climbing to the ruined castle base. The view of Bonnieux from the base of Lacoste’s castle is as good as it gets.
The Marquis de Sade (1740-1814) lived in this castle for more than 30 years. Author of pornographic novels, he was notorious for hosting orgies behind these walls, and for kidnapping peasants for scandalous purposes. He was eventually arrested and imprisoned for 30 years, and thanks to him, we have a word to describe his favorite hobby—sadism. Today, fashion designer Pierre Cardin lives in the lower part of the castle, having spent a fortune shoring up the protective walls and sponsoring a high-priced summer opera series. Some locals are critical of Cardin, claiming that he is buying up the town to create his own “faux-Provence.” Could “Cardism” be next?
Eating: If it’s time for lunch or dinner, find $ Café de France with its outdoor tables overlooking Bonnieux and savor the view (reasonably priced omelets, quiche, and plats; daily, lunch only off-season, tel. 04 90 75 82 25).
A dirt road off D-103 between Lacoste and Ménerbes leads down to this long-forgotten and pint-size abbey (200-yard walk from parking area). There’s not much to see here—it’s more about the experience. The tranquility and isolation sought by monks 800 years ago are still palpable in the simple church and modest cloisters. Once a Cistercian outpost for the bigger abbey at Sénanque, Abbey St. Hilaire is now owned by Carmelite Friars. Make a small donation for use of the English translations. The rear terraces are picnic-ready. Leave nothing valuable in your car at this remote site.
Ménerbes, still (in)famous as the village that drew author Peter Mayle’s attention to this region, has an upscale but welcoming feel in its small center (small parking fee). Wine bars, cafés, and a smattering of galleries gather where key lanes intersect. To explore the linear rock-top village, follow Eglise signs.
At the east end of Rue Corneille you’ll pass the citadel, built in 1584 (after the Protestants of Ménerbes were defeated in the religious wars of 1577)—and never tested. The citadel is privately owned today, but from the outside you can still enjoy the impressive facade, which spans the width of the rock. Nearby, the ancient stone prison tower is also worth a peek.
At the village’s very western end, find the heavy Romanesque church (closed and under renovation) and graveyard (good views in all directions). You’re face-to-face with the Grand Luberon ridge. Notice the quarry carved into its side, where the stone for this village came from.
On the way back, foodies can duck into the snazzy $$$$ Maison de la Truffe et du Vin, which offers “truffle discovery workshops,” fine meals, and wine tastings (Place de l’Horloge, tel. 04 90 72 38 37, www.vin-truffe-luberon.com).
The Corkscrew Museum (Musée du Tire-Bouchon) is actually part of the Domaine de la Citadelle winery, a half-mile below Ménerbes. It is worth a stop if you’re a corkscrew enthusiast or want to taste their very good wines. They have 1,200 corkscrews on display in glass cases and a well-stocked gift shop (small fee for the “museum,” includes tasting, daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, shorter hours and closed Sun off-season, tel. 04 90 72 41 58, www.domaine-citadelle.com).
Eating: A fine lunch or snack awaits at the $ Auzet Salon de Thé, with a cozy interior or view tables from the small terrace. You’ll find cheap quiche and savory pies with salad, delicious baked goods, and more (52 Rue du Portail Neuf, tel. 04 90 72 37 53).
This windy barnacle of a town clings with all its might to its hillside. There are a handful of businesses and a dusty little square at the base of a short, ankle-twisting climb to a pretty little church and ruined castle. This off-the-beaten-path fixer-upper of a village was completely abandoned in 1910, and today has a ghost town-like feel (it once housed 200 people). The barely inhabited village below has a rugged character and shows little inclination for boutiques and smart hotels. It’s ideal for those looking to perish in Provence.
Getting There: To find Oppède-le-Vieux from D-900, follow signs to Oppède and Oppède le Village, then Oppède-le-Vieux, and drive toward le Petit Luberon massif. You’ll follow a one-way loop and be forced to park several hundred yards from the village (unless you’re sleeping there), for which you get to pay €3. From the lot, follow signs to Vieux Village up a confusing set of switchbacks (pay attention for your return as signage is poor).
Sights: Plan your ascent to the castle from near Le Petit Café. It’s a 20-minute climb—the Luberon views justify the effort, even though the castle ruins are off limits. (After making this walk, you’ll understand why locals abandoned it for more level terrain.) Small information panels provide background in English as you climb, and the upgraded paving and floodlighting (if you visit later) will enhance your appreciation of the lovely setting. Walk under the central arch of the building across from Le Petit Café and climb. After walking under the arch, look back to notice the handsome building it supports. At the fork, you can go either way (though the path to the right seems a bit easier). Find the little church terrace. From here, tiled rooftops paint a pretty picture with the grand panorama. Notice the flat plain of the Rhône delta off to the left.
The colorful Notre-Dame d’Alidon church (1588) is likely closed during renovation (peek in if open and grab the English text). There’s been a church on this site for 1,000 years—imagine having to climb this distance at least every Sunday for your entire life. Notice the pride locals have for their church: You’ll see new gold-leaf accents and other efforts to spruce up the long-abandoned building. The steps to chapels on the right were necessary thanks to the church’s hillside setting.
Sleeping and Eating: Back down in the village center, consider a meal with views of the castle ruins at $ Le Petit Café, where all-business Laurent is in charge (closed Wed and mid-Dec-Feb). Le Petit Café also offers simple but comfy $ rooms, all with nice views (usually closed for check-in Tue-Wed, includes breakfast, air-con, rooftop terrace, tel. 04 90 76 74 01, www.lepetitcafe.fr, info@lepetitcafe.fr).
Provence can be busy with tourists, but there are still plenty of less-discovered places to explore. The area east of Roussillon, deep in the heart of Provence (la Provence profonde), feels overlooked. Come here to get a sense of how most villages were before they became “destinations.” Here are the key sights in the order that you’ll pass them coming from the west. Allow a full day to complete this loop.
This pleasant town (with a lively Tuesday market) has a ruined castle with grand views and a funky budget hotel with a terrific restaurant. Ditch your car below the main entry to the town (just below the old city) and walk up the main drag past the Hôtel Saint Hubert (Rue de la République). You’ll come to a striking church that’s a fine example of Provençal Romanesque, with a tall, octagonal spire (the interior is often closed) and a perfectly situated plane tree.
From here, find the ramp with Le Château signs and climb. The first castle was started here a thousand years ago. Today’s ruins are mostly from the 1300s and grow right out of the rock, making it difficult to tell the man-made from the natural. Go left when you see the opening and hike as high as the sun allows with no shade—faded green dots sort of guide you along. It’s a scamperer’s paradise, with views that rank among the best village-top vistas I’ve found in Provence. Find your way through the small opening to the little dam. On the opposite side of the reservoir, you’ll discover fine views of the castle reflected in the water and appreciate its original scale. The small chapel at the very top is open only on Sunday mornings in summer, but at any time you can take the path to the right of the chapel back down the hill to the village, where you’ll see a lovely medieval gate.
Sleeping and Eating: For a warm welcome, stay at $$ Mas Perréal just outside St-Saturnin-lès-Apt. American Kevin and his Parisian wife, Elisabeth, left no stone unturned as they restored their lovely farmhouse. This place features traditional rooms (a few with kitchens, each with its own terrace), a pool, 360-degree views (they own the vineyards and orchards around you), and no language barrier (rooms without kitchens include elaborate American-size breakfast; tel. 04 90 75 46 31, www.masperreal.com, elisabeth-kevin@masperreal.com, closed mid-Oct-March). Mas Perréal is off D-943, between St-Saturnin-lès-Apt and D-900. Heading north along D-943, turn left at Moulin à Huile Jullien, continue three-quarters of a mile, cross one “major” road, and have faith until you see the signs—it will be on your right.
$ Hôtel/Restaurant des Voyageurs,* with amiable owners Nadine and Alain (who speak no English), is a time warp that has survived many Provençal trends without changing its look or product. The basic accommodations gather around uneven floors and a frumpy upstairs terrace that only an artist could love (rooms are just comfortable enough, 2 Place Gambetta, tel. 04 90 75 42 08, www.voyageursenprovence.fr, must reserve by phone or fax 04 90 75 50 58—what’s that?). The sweet Old World $$ restaurant, with vintage floor tiles and beams, serves traditional cuisine that locals adore (well-priced menus from about €25, best to book a day ahead, nice outdoor terrace). Both the hotel and the restaurant are closed all day Wednesday and Thursday until 18:00. It’s at the base of the old village, below the Spar store.
This park has ochre cliffs similar to Roussillon’s, but they’re spread over a larger area, with well-signed trails. If hiking through soft, orange sand and Bryce Canyon-like rocks strikes your fancy—and you didn’t get enough in Roussillon—make time for Le Colorado Provençal.
You’ll be directed to a big dirt parking lot (WCs and a café) and be given a map of the two trails. Parking attendants are available from about 9:00 until 17:00 or 18:00. Before or after those times, you can park for free (but get no map).
For the best walk, cross the little footbridge, turn right, and follow arrows leading to the Sahara trail. Do the loop counterclockwise. The two trails (Sahara and Belvédères) are color-coded. The shorter Sahara trail (signed in blue) offers a wide spectrum of colors and provides views of the chimney formations (allow 90 minutes round-trip from your car). You can extend your walk by 40 minutes and combine both trails. Forgo light-colored clothing.
Cost and Hours: The park is free, parking-€5, always open; located a half-mile below Rustrel off D-22, between Apt and Gignac—follow signs toward the village of Rustrel, the gateway to Le Colorado Provençal.
Located about 15 minutes uphill and east of Le Colorado Provençal, this village is where Luberon locals go to get away. With a setting like this, it’s surprising that modest Viens is not more developed. The panoramas are higher and vaster than around Roussillon and Gordes (with some lavender fields), and the vegetation is more raw. Walk the streets of the old town (bigger than it first appears) and visit the few shops scattered about. Walk to the end of the village past the post office and enjoy a view over the unusual church tower and beyond.
Eating: Just below the town’s only phone booth, $$ Le Petit Jardin Café fits perfectly in this unpretentious town where tourists are viewed as curiosities. Come for a drink and rub shoulders with locals or, better, have a meal. Dine in the small traditional interior or outside on a delightful garden terrace (good-value weekday menu du jour, more elaborate weekend menu, closed Sun evening and Mon, tel. 04 90 75 20 05). A small grocery store (closed Sun) and a bakery (closed Mon) are a few blocks past the café, toward St. Martin de Castillon.
To reach the next village (Saignon), follow signs to St. Martin de Castillon, then turn right on D-900 toward Apt.
Sitting high atop a rock spur, this village looks down onto Apt, a city of only 11,500—which from here looks like a megalopolis after all these tiny villages. You can peek into the too-big-for-this-village Romanesque church (Notre-Dame de la Pitié) and admire its wood doors and tympanum, then follow Le Rocher signs through the village up to the “ship’s prow.” If you need to see it all, climb to the Le Rocher Bellevue for grand views over lavender fields (about three stories of stairs to the top). There are a handful of cafés and a grocery store in the linear village’s center. Parking is best just above the town (hike or drive farther above town for sensational views over Saignon).
Buoux (pronounced “b-ewe-oox”), a way-off-the-beaten-path village, is home to a remote hotel/restaurant and one of Provence’s best ruined castles. A trip to this far-flung corner rewards with rocky canyons, acres of lavender, and few tourists. Start early and climb to the castle before the heat rises, then have a long, well-earned lunch at the recommended L’Auberge des Sequins (see below). If you liked Les Baux but weren’t so fond of the crowds and don’t need an audioguide, you’ll love it here. But you’ll need good shoes, stamina, and balance because much of the footing is tricky.
Buoux is south of Apt on D-113 between Saignon and Lourmarin. Ambitious travelers can combine a visit to Buoux with Lourmarin and Bonnieux.
The remains of this remote ridgetop castle are a playground for energetic lovers of crumbled ruins and grand views. Allow an hour for this hike.
Cost and Hours: €5, daily 10:00-17:00, closed in bad weather (wind or rain) when it’s slippery and dangerous, tel. 04 90 74 25 75, www.lefortdebuoux.e-monsite.com.
Getting There: The fort is 10 minutes by car from the village of Buoux. To reach the fort from Apt and the north, drive through Buoux on D-113, drop down, and be on the lookout for small signs to Fort de Buoux (and L’Auberge des Seguins). Slow down and expect sharp turns. If coming from the south, follow signs to Bonnieux, then L’Auberge des Seguins and Fort de Buoux. You can use one of several dirt parking areas; you’ll find the closest lot after passing two others. Once parked, walk through the gate and then about 15 easy minutes up a dirt road to the foot of the fort. From here the footing gets challenging.
Visiting the Fort: Floating like a cloud above the valleys below, the fort is easy to miss—it disappears beside the limestone rock cliffs that dominate the landscape. The long, rocky outcrop has been inhabited since prehistoric times. In the Middle Ages, it was home to hundreds of residents and a powerful castle that controlled a vast area. Like Les Baux, the fort was destroyed in the 1500s during the wars of religion (it was a Protestant base) and again in the 1600s by a paranoid King Louis XIII (see sidebar on here).
Monsieur le Gardien (the caretaker) greets you with tickets and a simple map of the sight with brief English explanations (picnic tables available and drinks sold at the entry). The map suggests a one-way route through the rocky ruins. You’ll enter by the round tower and walk past what’s left of the village, then scramble up and around rock piles along a stony spine to the castle remains, once home to hundreds of residents. You’ll also climb around the remains of homes, a church, cisterns, and medieval storage silos. The castle keep stands at the highest point.
An unforgettable highlight of this castle is a three-story stone spiral staircase, which would never in a million years be open to the public in the US. Dating from the Bronze Age (experts think) and cut into the cliffs, it leads back down to the base. I’d skip this part (returning as you came) unless you are sure-footed and adventurous. To find the staircase, look for #36, near the grain silos (the many holes in the ground), then walk under the archway and follow the faded white arrows as you leave the ruins (you’ll walk uphill for 10 minutes at first). The staircase is steep with no handrails and some really big steps.
$ L’Auberge des Seguins is a few stone’s throws from the parking area for the fort and draws a hiking crowd. It’s a modest, Shangri-la kind of place at the end of the valley, with confident young Amélie in charge. The rambling old farm is isolated and purposefully unmanicured—guests are encouraged to disconnect and appreciate the natural beauty and views of the fort. Come here for a light lunch (€10 salads and plats), dinner, or a drink (good local beer), or consider spending the night. The 27 rooms are simple though comfortable, clean, and squirreled about the place: Some require a dirt path to reach, and some are built into the rocky cliffs. Kids love it (there’s also a big pool, but it’s not heated). This place is a fine value for unpicky types—or for those on the lam (good half-pension with dinner-€70/person, €44/person if you sleep in the cool 20-bed dorm room; coming from Fort de Buoux, take your first possible right, which turns into a dirt road; tel. 04 90 74 16 37, www.aubergedesseguins.com, aubergedesseguins@gmail.com).
The southernmost Luberon village of Lourmarin has a good Friday market (and a smaller one Tue evenings), a beautiful Renaissance château on its fringe, and an enchanting town center. Lourmarin sits on a level plain and feels peaceful and happy, away from the more-visited villages in the heart of the Luberon. This self-assured, handsome town accommodates a healthy tourist demand without feeling too overrun (though there is no lack of boutiques). It’s among the best Luberon villages to enjoy in the off-season when other, better-known towns rattle about with few residents and little commercial activity.
Existentialist writer Albert Camus (The Stranger) lived in Lourmarin in the 1950s and is buried here, lending it a certain fame that persists today. Author Peter Mayle lived here as well, adding to the village’s cachet...and now you’re here, too. Lourmarin makes a good base for drivers touring the southern Luberon, Aix-en-Provence, and even Marseille and maybe Cassis. From here you can tour big cities, beaches, and castles, returning every night to the comfort of your village.
Getting There: Trans Vaucluse bus #9 links Lourmarin to Aix-en-Provence (3/day, 1.5 hours, more departures with a transfer in Cadenet, www.pacamobilite.fr).
Tourist Information: The TI is located on Place Henri Barthélémy (April-Sept daily 10:00-12:30 & 13:30-18:00, Oct-Mar closed Sun-Mon, tel. 04 90 68 10 77, www.lourmarin.com). Free public WCs are located to the right as you exit the TI, down the stairs. Park centrally, and leave nothing of value visible in your car.
This Renaissance château looks across a grassy meadow at the village. It’s more impressive from outside than within; you’ll visit a few well-furnished rooms, an intriguing kitchen and exterior galleries, and a slick double spiral staircase in stone.
Cost and Hours: €7, daily June-Aug 10:00-18:00, off-season until 17:00 but closes for lunch, weekends only in Jan, decent English handout and posted explanations, tel. 04 90 68 15 23, www.chateau-de-lourmarin.com.
Little Lourmarin hosts a lively market every Friday until 13:00. Sleep here Thursday night and awake to the commotion, arrive early, or prepare for a good walk from your car.
Try to stay here on a Thursday, so you can be here for Friday’s market. The good-value Villa St. Louis and Les Chambres de la Cordière are near each other at the very eastern end of the town center.
$$ Le Moulin de Lourmarin*** is a pleasant 18-room hotel with fair rates and an elevator in the old town (Rue du Temple, tel. 04 90 68 06 69, www.moulindelourmarin.com).
$ Villa St. Louis is a splendid place. It’s a cross between a museum, a grand old manor home, and a garage sale. The dreamy backyard is ideal for a siesta (hammock provided) and picnics. The rooms are like Grandma’s, and there’s a common room with a fridge (includes breakfast, cash only, secure parking, loaner bikes, 35 Rue de Henri Savournin, mobile 06 88 94 18 93, www.villasaintlouis.com, villasaintlouis@wanadoo.fr).
$ Les Chambres de la Cordière is a cool getaway. Charming owner Françoise’s goal is to make you feel at home. Six cozy rooms are tucked into one of the village’s oldest buildings (c. 1582), with a tiny courtyard and welcoming cats (family rooms, 4 rooms come with mini kitchens—the 3 gîtes with full kitchens are usually rented only by the week, cash only, some rooms have air-con, one room with a whirlpool bath, Rue Albert Camus, tel. 04 90 68 03 32, mobile 06 81 02 18 04, www.cordiere.com, cordiereluberon@aol.com).
All roads seem to converge on the postcard-perfect Place de l’Ormeau. Several appealing places line the square, making comparison shopping easy. $ Café Gaby offers good-value fare (salads, omelets, steak-frites) with authentic decor inside and a good outside terrace (daily, tel. 04 90 68 38 42). $$ Café l’Ormeau serves a larger selection and has tablecloths and an interior courtyard, making it a calm retreat in the middle of the village bustle (daily, tel. 04 90 68 02 11).
$ La Maison Café draws a younger crowd and is best before or after dinner (till late) with a cool upstairs terrace and cozy bar inside (closed Mon-Tue, Rue du Galinier, tel. 04 90 09 54 01).
At $$ La Récréation owner Jean-Louis and his bright smile have been welcoming guests for more than 30 years. You’ll find an inviting terrace and regional cuisine with vegetarian options (closed Wed, below the TI on Avenue Philippe de Girard, tel. 04 90 68 23 73).