NEAR THE PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS
Map: Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants
GETTING TO DESTINATIONS BEYOND THE RIVIERA
Nice (sounds like “niece”), with its spectacular Alps-meets-Mediterranean surroundings, is the big-city highlight of the Riviera. Its traffic-free Vieux Nice—the old town—blends Italian and French flavors to create a spicy Mediterranean dressing, while its big squares, broad seaside walkways, and long beaches invite lounging and people-watching. Nice may be nice, but it’s jammed in May, July, and August—reserve ahead and get a room with air-conditioning. Nice gets quiet and mild in April and October. Everything you’ll want to see in Nice is either within walking distance, or a short bike, bus, or tram ride away.
Focus your time on the area between the beach and the train tracks (about 15 blocks apart). The city revolves around its grand Place Masséna, where pedestrian-friendly Avenue Jean Médecin meets Vieux Nice and the Promenade du Paillon parkway (with quick access to the beaches). It’s a 20-minute walk (or about €15 by taxi) from the train station to the beach, and a 20-minute stroll along the promenade from the fancy Hôtel Negresco to the heart of Vieux Nice.
A 10-minute ride on the smooth tram through the center of the city connects the train station, Place Masséna, Vieux Nice, and Place Garibaldi. A new, mostly underground tram line paralleling the Promenade des Anglais and running from the port to the airport may be in operation by the time you visit.
Nice has three helpful TIs (tel. 08 92 70 74 07, www.nicetourisme.com), including the main branches at the train station and at #5 Promenade des Anglais (both daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00), and by the fountains near Place Masséna, called “Pavillon” (May-mid-Sept only, daily 10:00-20:00). Ask for day-trip information (including maps of Monaco, Antibes, and Cannes) and details on boat excursions, bus stop locations, and schedules.
By Train: All trains stop at Nice’s main station, called Nice-Ville. With your back to the tracks, car rentals are to the right. Bag storage is to the left inside the station; you can also stash your bags a short block away at the recommended Hôtel Belle Meunière. The TI and bus stops (including #99 to the airport) are straight out the main doors.
A nearby tram line zips you to the center in a few minutes (several blocks to the left as you leave the station, departs every few minutes, direction: Hôpital Pasteur; see “Getting Around Nice,” later). To walk to the beach, Promenade des Anglais, or many of my recommended hotels, cross Avenue Thiers in front of the station, go down the steps by Hôtel Interlaken, and continue down Avenue Durante.
By Bus: For arrival by bus, see “Nice Connections,” at the end of this chapter. The region’s primary bus company, Lignes d’Azur, has an information office across from the train station (see “Helpful Hints,” later).
By Car: To reach the city center from the autoroute, take the Nice Centre exit and follow signs. Ask your hoteliers where to park (allow €20-30/day; some hotels offer deals but space is limited—arrange ahead). The parking garage at the Nice Etoile shopping center on Avenue Jean Médecin is near many recommended hotels (ticket booth on third floor, about €28/day, 18:00-8:00). Other centrally located garages have similar rates. On-street parking is strictly metered (usually a 2-hour limit) every day but Sunday, when it is typically free.
You can avoid driving in the center—and park for free during the day (no overnight parking)—by stashing your car at a parking lot at a remote tram or bus stop. Look for blue-on-white Parcazur signs (find locations at www.lignesdazur.com), and ride the bus or tram into town (10/hour, 15 minutes, buy round-trip tram or bus ticket and keep it with you—you’ll need it later to exit the parking lot; for tram details, see “Getting Around Nice,” later). The easiest lot to use is Parcazur Henri Sappia, right off the Nice Nord autoroute exit. It always has room and saves you from navigating city streets (daily until 2:30 in the morning). As lots are not guarded, don’t leave anything of value in your car.
By Plane or Cruise Ship: For information on Nice’s airport and cruise-ship port, see “Nice Connections” at the end of this chapter.
Theft Alert: Nice has its share of pickpockets (especially at the train station, on the tram, and trolling the beach). Stick to main streets in Vieux Nice after dark.
Medical Help: Riviera Medical Services has a list of English-speaking physicians. They can help you make an appointment or call an ambulance (tel. 04 93 26 12 70, www.rivieramedical.com).
Sightseeing Tips: The Cours Saleya produce and flower market is closed Monday, and the Chagall and Matisse museums are closed Tuesday. All Nice museums—except the Chagall Museum—share the same €10 combo-ticket (valid 24 hours, €20/7 days, buy at any participating museum).
Baggage Storage: You can store your bags inside the train station (€5-10/bag per day), at the recommended Hôtel Belle Meunière (€5/bag per day), or at the Bagguys in Vieux Nice (€8/bag per day, daily 10:00-19:00, 22 Rue Centrale, info@bagguys.fr).
Grocery Store: Small grocery shops are easy to find. The big Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin and Rue Biscarra has it all (open daily, see map on here).
Boutique Shopping: The chic streets where Rue Alphonse Karr meets Rue de la Liberté and then Rue de Paradis are known as the “Golden Square.” If you need pricey stuff, shop here.
Renting a Bike (and Other Wheels): Bike-rental shops are a breeze to find in Nice, and several companies offer bike tours of the city. Bikes (vélos) can be taken on trains. Holiday Bikes has multiple locations, including one across from the train station, and they have electric bikes (www.loca-bike.fr). Roller Station is well situated near the sea and rents bikes, rollerblades, skateboards, and Razor-style scooters (bikes-€5/hour, €10/half-day, €15/day, leave ID as deposit, open daily, 49 Quai des Etats-Unis—see map on here, tel. 04 93 62 99 05). The Vélo Bleu bike-sharing program has affordable bikes docked at many stations in the city for short-term use, but the French-only website makes it difficult for most travelers (www.velobleu.org).
Car Rental: Renting a car is easiest at Nice’s airport, which has offices for all the major companies. Most companies are also represented at Nice’s train station and near the southwest side of Albert I Park.
Lignes d’Azur Bus Tickets: Useful information offices are at 17 Rue Thiers (kitty-corner from the train station, information only), at 1 Rue d’Italie (sells tickets and passes), and at 4 Boulevard Jean Jaurès (the main office where you can buy tickets and passes). Office hours vary (generally Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00 or 19:00, Sat until 15:00, closed Sun). Ask for their helpful “Passenger Guide” with information on buses to all Riviera destinations in English.
English Radio: Tune in to Riviera-Radio at FM 106.5.
Views: For panoramic views, climb Castle Hill (see “Sights in Nice,” later) or take a one-hour boat trip (see “Tours in Nice,” later).
Beach Tips: To make life tolerable on the rocks, swimmers should buy a pair of the cheap plastic beach shoes sold at many shops. Go Sport at #13 on Place Masséna is a good bet (open daily, see map on here). Locals don’t swim in July and August, as the warming sea brings swarms of stinging jellyfish. Ask before you dip.
Although you can walk to most attractions, smart travelers make good use of the buses and trams within Nice. For information on getting around the Riviera from Nice, see “Nice Connections” at the end of this chapter.
Tickets: Buses and trams are covered by the same €1.50 single-ride ticket, or you can pay €10 for a 10-ride ticket that can be shared (each use good for 74 minutes in one direction, including transfers between bus and tram). The €5 all-day pass is valid on city buses and trams, as well as buses to some nearby destinations (but not airport buses). You must validate your ticket in the machine on every trip—imitate how the locals do it. Buy single tickets from the bus driver or from the ticket machines on tram platforms (coins only—press the green button once to validate choice and twice at the end to get your ticket). Passes and 10-ride tickets are also available from machines at tram stops and from two Lignes d’Azur offices (see “Helpful Hints,” above), but not from drivers. Info: www.lignesdazur.com.
Buses: The bus is handy for reaching the Chagall and Matisse museums and the Russian Cathedral (for specifics, see museum listings under “Sights in Nice”). Route diagrams in the buses identify each stop.
Trams: Nice has a modern and efficient L-shaped tram line (T-1) that runs to the train station and a new line (T-2) that should connect the city center to the airport in late 2019 (http://tramway.nice.fr). Trams to the train station run every few minutes along Avenue Jean Médecin and Boulevard Jean Jaurès, and connect the main train station with Place Masséna and Vieux Nice (Opéra stop), the port (Place Garibaldi stop), and buses east along the coast (Vauban stop). These trams also stop near the Chemins de Fer de Provence train station (Libération stop)—the departure point for the scenic narrow-gauge rail journey. Boarding the tram in the direction of Hôpital Pasteur takes you toward the beach and Vieux Nice (direction: Henri Sappia goes the other way). The new T-2 tramway goes from the airport through the city center to Nice’s Port Lympia, paralleling the Promenade des Anglais a few blocks inland.
While pricey, cabs are useful for getting to Nice’s less-central sights (figure €8 for shortest ride, €15 from Promenade des Anglais to the Chagall Museum). Cabbies normally pick up only at taxi stands (tête de station), or you can call 04 93 13 78 78. Uber works here like it does at home (including your US app and account), though there are fewer cars here, and the price is not much cheaper than a taxi. Still, drivers are often nicer and more flexible, and you usually get a car without much delay.
Le Grand Tour Bus provides a useful 14-stop, hop-on, hop-off service on an open-deck bus with good headphone commentary. The route includes the Promenade des Anglais, the old port, Cap de Nice, and the Chagall and Matisse museums. From April to October, it also runs to Villefranche-sur-Mer (1-day pass-€23, 2-day pass-€26, buy tickets on bus, 2/hour, daily 10:00-19:00, 1.75-hour loop with Villefranche-sur-Mer, main stop near where Promenade des Anglais and Quai des Etats-Unis meet—across from the Albert I Park, tel. 04 92 29 17 00, www.nice.opentour.com). While it’s not the best way to get to the Chagall and Matisse museums, this bus is a good value if you’re looking for a city overview and want to also visit these museums or spend time in Villefranche-sur-Mer (best seats are up top on the left as you face forward).
For €10, you can spend 45 minutes on the tourist train tooting along the promenade, through the old city, and up to Castle Hill (2/hour, daily 10:00-18:00 or 19:00, recorded English commentary, meet train at the Monument du Centenaire statue at Albert I Park, across from the Promenade des Anglais, tel. 02 99 88 47 07).
Tina Balter at Lifesparkz Bike Tours offers well-designed, customized bike tours for individuals or small groups of all abilities (mobile 06 40 52 94 39, www.lifesparkz.net).
To see Nice from the water, hop on this one-hour tour run by Trans Côte d’Azur. You’ll cruise in a comfortable yacht-size vessel to Cap Ferrat and past Villefranche-sur-Mer, then return to Nice with a final lap along Promenade des Anglais.
Guides enjoy pointing out mansions owned by famous people, including Elton John, Sean Connery, and Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen (€18; covered by French Riviera Pass—see here; April-Oct Tue-Sun 2/day, usually at 11:00 and 15:00, no boats Mon or during off-season; verify schedule, arrive 30 minutes early to get best seats). The boats leave from Nice’s port, Bassin des Amiraux, just below Castle Hill—look for the ticket booth (billeterie) on Quai de Lunel. The same company also runs boats to Monaco and St-Tropez (see “Nice Connections,” at the end of this chapter).
If interested in hiring a local guide for Nice and other regional destinations, see here for suggestions.
The TI on Promenade des Anglais organizes weekly walking tours of Vieux Nice in French and English (€12, Sat morning at 9:30, 2.5 hours, reservations necessary, departs from TI, tel. 08 92 70 74 07).
Charming Canadian Francophile Rosa Jackson, a food journalist, Cordon Bleu-trained cook, and longtime resident of France, runs a cooking school—Les Petits Farcis—and offers a good food-market tour in Vieux Nice for small groups (€80-120/person based on group size). She also teaches cooking classes that include a morning shopping trip to the market on Cours Saleya and an afternoon cooking session for €195/person, and a pastry course for €80/person (12 Rue Saint Joseph, mobile 06 81 67 41 22, www.petitsfarcis.com).
A Taste of Nice Food Tours runs daily scratch-and-taste tours in Vieux Nice that combine cultural history with today’s food scene. You’ll stop for 10 different tastings of classic Niçois products. Tours meet daily except Monday at 10:00 on Quai des Etats-Unis at the Opéra Plage (€70/4 hours, tel. 09 86 65 75 17, www.atasteofnice.com, booking@atasteofnice.com).
Map: Promenade des Anglais Walk
3 Bay of Angels (Baie des Anges)
These two self-guided walks take you down an iconic seaside promenade (“Promenade des Anglais Walk”) and through the colorful old town blending French and Italian cultures (“Vieux Nice Walk”).
(See “Promenade des Anglais Walk” map.)
Welcome to the Riviera. There’s something for everyone along this four-mile-long promenade, worth ▲▲▲. Stroll like the belle époque English aristocrats for whom the promenade was paved. Watch Europeans at play, admire the azure Mediterranean, anchor yourself on a blue seat, and prop your feet up on the made-to-order guardrail. Later, you can come back to join the evening parade of tans along the promenade.
The broad sidewalks of the Promenade des Anglais (“Walkway of the English”) were financed by upper-crust English tourists who wanted a clean and comfortable place to stroll and admire the view. The Brits originally came to Nice seeking relief from tuberculosis; both the warm climate and the salt air helped ease their suffering. It was an era when tanned bodies were frowned upon (aristocrats didn’t want to resemble lower-class laborers who had to work outside). Most visitors wouldn’t dare swim in the Mediterranean for another hundred years.
Length of This Walk: Allow one hour at a promenade pace for this leisurely, level walk. It’s a straight one-mile line along this much-strolled beachfront, beginning near the landmark Hôtel Negresco and ending at the elevator to Castle Hill.
When to Go: While this walk is enjoyable at any time, the first half makes a great stroll before or after breakfast or dinner (meals served at some beach cafés). If you’re doing the entire walk to Castle Hill, try to time it so you wind up on top of the hill at sunset.
Biking the Promenade: See here for tips on cycling along the seafront.
Self-Guided Walk• Start at the pink-domed...
Built in 1913, Nice’s finest hotel is also a historic monument, offering up the city’s most expensive beds and a museum-like interior.
If you wonder why such a grand hotel has such an understated entry, it’s because today’s front door was originally the back door. In the 19th century, elegant people avoided the sun, and any posh hotel that cared about its clientele would design its entry on the shady north side. If you walk around to today’s “back” you’ll see a grand but unused front door.
The hotel is technically off-limits if you’re not a guest, but if you’re decently dressed and explain to the doorman that you’d like to get a drink at Negresco’s classy-cozy Le Relais bar (see later), you’ll be allowed past the registration desk. You can also explain that you want to shop at their store, which also might get you in—bonne chance.
If you get in, you can’t miss a huge ballroom, the Salon Royal. The chandelier hanging from its dome is made of 16,000 pieces of crystal. It was built in France for the Russian czar’s Moscow palace...but thanks to the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, he couldn’t take delivery. Bronze portrait busts of Czar Alexander III and his wife, Maria Feodorovna—who returned to her native Denmark after the Revolution—are to the right, facing the shops. Circle the interior of the ballroom and admire the soft light from the glass dome that Gustave Eiffel designed two decades after his more famous tower in Paris, then wander the perimeter to enjoy both historic and modern art. Fine portraits include Emperor Napoleon III and wife Empress Eugénie (who acquired Nice for France from Italy in 1860).
Touring the outer hall that rings the ballroom counter-clockwise, you’ll first pass Le Relais Bar. If the door is open, wander up the marble steps for a look into the wood-paneled interior (from 11:30 in high season, from 14:30 off-season). Next, nip into the toilets for either an early 20th-century powder room or a Battle of Waterloo experience. The chairs with the high, scooped backs were typical of the age (cones of silence for an afternoon nap sitting up). Further along, the hotel’s Chantecler restaurant is one of the Riviera’s best (allow €100 per person before drinks).
Over 6,000 works of art decorate the hotel, as art is a passion of the hotel’s owner, Jeanne Augier. She’s quite elderly now, lives up in the cupola, and has willed the Negresco to organizations that care for orphans and stray animals. Find the portrait of her as you leave the ballroom area on the right.
Peek into the Salon Versailles to the right of entry lobby as you leave, with a grand fireplace and France’s Sun King, Louis XIV, on the wall (English descriptions explain the room).
• Across the street from the Hôtel Negresco (to the east) is...
When Nice became part of France, France invested heavily in what it expected to be the country’s new high society retreat—an elite resort akin to Russia’s Sochi. This fine palace was built for Jean-Andre Masséna, a military hero of the Napoleonic age. Take a moment to stroll around the lovely garden. Immediately on your right, find a memorial to the 86 people who died in the 2016 terrorist attack on the Promenade des Anglais, with pictures, stuffed animals, and names engraved in granite (garden is free, open daily 10:00-18:00). The Masséna Museum inside the villa (described later in “Sights in Nice”) offers an interesting look at belle-époque Nice.
• From Villa Masséna, head for the beach and begin your Promenade des Anglais stroll. But first, grab a blue chair and gaze out to the...
Face the water. The body of Nice’s patron saint, Réparate, was supposedly escorted into this bay by angels in the fourth century. To your right is where you might have been escorted into France—Nice’s airport, built on a massive landfill. The tip of land beyond the runway is Cap d’Antibes. Until 1860, Antibes and Nice were in different countries—Antibes was French, but Nice was a protectorate of the Italian kingdom of Savoy-Piedmont, a.k.a. the Kingdom of Sardinia. During that period, the Var River—just west of Nice—was the geographic border between these two peoples (and to this day the river functions as a kind of cultural border). In 1850, the people here spoke Italian or Nissart (a local dialect) and ate pasta. As the story goes, the region was given a choice: Join newly united Italy or join France, which was enjoying prosperous times under the rule of Napoleon III. The majority voted in 1860 to go French...and voilà!
The lower green hill to your left is Castle Hill (where this walk ends). Farther left lie Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat (marked by the tower at land’s end, and home to lots of millionaires), then Monaco (which you can’t see, with more millionaires), then Italy. Behind you are the foothills of the Alps, which trap threatening clouds, ensuring that the Côte d’Azur enjoys sunshine more than 300 days each year. While 350,000 people live in Nice, pollution is carefully treated—the water is routinely tested and is very clean. But with climate change, the warmer water is attracting jellyfish in the summer, making swimming a stinging memory.
• With the sea on your right, begin strolling.
This area was the favorite haunt of 19th-century British tourists, who wanted a place to stroll in their finery while admiring the sea views (locals called it “Little London”). Before the promenade was built, they had to venture into Vieux Nice and climb to the two-story gallery walkway that lines the southern edge of the Cours Saleya (you’ll see it on the “Vieux Nice Walk”). When first built, this promenade was a dusty path about six feet wide and about 10 blocks long. It’s been widened and lengthened over the years to keep up with tourist demand, including increased bicycle use. As you walk, be careful to avoid the bike lane.
Nearby sit two fine belle-époque establishments: the West End and Westminster hotels, both boasting English names to help those original guests feel at home. (The West End is now part of the Best Western group...to help American guests feel at home.) These hotels symbolize Nice’s arrival as a tourist mecca in the 19th century, when the combination of leisure time and a stable economy allowed visitors to find the sun even in winter.
Find the easel showing a painting of La Jetée Promenade—Nice’s elegant pier and first casino, built in 1883. Even a hundred years ago, there was sufficient tourism in Nice to justify constructing a palatial building to house this leisure activity imported from Venice. La Jetée Promenade stood east of those white-covered pilings just offshore, until the Germans dismantled it during World War II to salvage its copper and iron. When La Jetée was thriving, it took gamblers two full days to get to the Riviera by train from Paris. The painting shows what an event strolling the Promenade was—like going to the opera, it was all about dressing up, being seen, and looking good.
Although La Jetée Promenade is gone, you can still see the striking 1927 Art Nouveau facade of the 4 Palais de la Méditerranée, once a magnificent complex housing a casino, luxury hotel, and theater. It became one of the most famous destinations in all of Europe until it was destroyed in the 1980s to make room for a new hotel (the Hyatt Regency). The facade of the grand, old building was spared the wrecking ball, but the classy interior was lost forever.
The modern Casino Ruhl (with the most detested facade on the strip) disfigures the next block. In the spirit of modern efficiency, a lovely old hotel that resembled the Negresco was destroyed in the 1980s to make room for this...thing.
Despite the lack of sand, the pebble beaches here are still a popular draw, and every year tons of rocks are trucked in to shore them up. France has a strong ethic of public access when it comes to its beaches, including a 1980 law guaranteeing free public access to beaches like these. All along the Riviera you’ll find public beaches (and public showers).
You can go local and rent gear—about €15 for a chaise longue (long chair) and a transat (mattress), €5 for an umbrella, and €5 for a towel. You’ll also pass several beach restaurants. Some of these eateries serve breakfast, all serve lunch, some do dinner, and a few have beachy bars...tailor-made for a break from this walk.
5 Albert I Park is named after the Belgian king who defied a German ultimatum at the beginning of World War I. While the English came first, the Belgians and Russians were also big fans of 19th-century Nice. That tall statue at the edge of the park commemorates the 100-year anniversary of Nice’s union with France. The happy statue features two beloved women embracing the idea of union (Marianne—Ms. Liberty, Equality, and Brotherhood, and the symbol of the Republic of France—and Catherine Ségurane, a 16th-century heroine who helped Nice against the Saracen pirates).
The park is part of a long, winding greenbelt called the Promenade du Paillon. The Paillon River flows under the park on its way to the sea. If it’s been raining in the hills, you’ll see the river flow into the sea on the beach opposite the statue. This is the historical divide between Vieux Nice and the new town. Before the river was covered, locals would do their laundry along its banks.
Continuing along the promenade you’ll soon enter the Quai des Etats-Unis (“Quay of the United States”). This name was given as a tip-of-the-cap to the Americans for finally entering World War I in 1917. The big, blue chair statue celebrates the inviting symbol of this venerable walk and kicks off the best stretch of beach—quieter and with less traffic. Check out the laid-back couches at the Plage Beau Rivage lounge and consider a beachfront drink. The lovely hotel (not yet destroyed) that borders the beach was Henri Matisse’s favorite when he first visited Nice. He loved it so much that he painted pictures of his hotel room at different times of day, creating masterpieces that are among his most recognized paintings.
Those tall, rusted 6 steel girders reaching for the sky were erected in 2010 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Nice’s union with France. (The seven beams represent the seven valleys of the Nice region.) Done by the same artist who created the popular Arc of the Riviera sculpture in the parkway near Place Masséna, this “art” justifiably infuriates many locals as an ugly waste of money. But I know how to make it easier to appreciate the erection every local loves to hate: Stand directly under it, look straight up, and spin 720 degrees. Then look across the way to marvel at the 18th-century facades that line the Esplanade Georges Pompidou. Find the one that is entirely fake-painted on a flat stucco surface. Then, look down and notice the buried uplighting—a French forte. And then, give it another 720 degrees of spin and try to walk on.
At the next palm tree, some will enjoy looking left (at the impressive back side of Apollo, a couple of blocks away), while others head to the right for a view of the beach action. Topless bathing is now out of fashion. Locals say that the awareness of skin cancer and the proliferation of North African and tourist lookie-loos have made it less appealing. Some say the only people still bathing topless are older ladies who remember fondly the liberation of 1968...and tourists.
A block ahead on the left, the elegant back side of Nice’s opera house faces the sea. The tiny bronze Statue of Liberty (right in front of you as you face the opera) reminds all that this stretch of seafront promenade is named for the USA.
The top level of the long, low galleries on the left was British tourists’ preferred place for a stroll before the Promenade des Anglais was built. The ground floor served the city’s fishermen, and the smell alone was motivation enough to find a new place to promenade. Behind the galleries bustles the Cours Saleya Market—long the heart and soul of Vieux Nice, with handy WCs under its arches.
Farther along, on the far-right side of the Quai des Etats-Unis (opposite Le Camboda restaurant), find the three-foot-tall white 7 metal winch at the ramp to the beach. Long before tourism—and long before Nice dredged its harbor—hard-working fishing boats rather than vacationing tourists lined the beach. The boats were hauled in through the surf by winches like this and tied to the iron rings on either side.
• You could end your walk here, but the view from the point just past the Hôtel la Pérouse is wonderful. Either way, you have several great options: Continue 10 minutes along the coast to the port, around the foot of Castle Hill (fine views of the entire promenade and a monumental war memorial carved into the hillside); hike or ride the elevator up to Castle Hill (catch the elevator next to Hôtel Suisse; see listing for Castle Hill in “Sights in Nice,” later) head into Vieux Nice (you can follow my “Vieux Nice Walk”); or grab a blue chair or piece of beach and just be on vacation—Riviera style.
(See “Vieux Nice Walk” map.)
This self-guided walk through Nice’s old town, known as Vieux Nice and worth ▲▲, gives you a helpful introduction to the city’s bicultural heritage and its most interesting neighborhoods.
Length of This Walk: Allow about one hour at a leisurely pace for this level walk from Place Masséna to Place Rossetti.
When to Go: It’s best done in the morning (while the outdoor market thrives—consider coffee or breakfast at a café along the Cours Saleya), and preferably not on a Sunday, when things are quiet. This ramble is also a joy at night, when fountains glow and pedestrians control the streets.
Self-Guided Walk• Start where Avenue Jean Médecin hits the people-friendly Place Masséna—the successful result of a long, expensive city upgrade and the new center of Nice.
The grand Place Masséna is Nice’s drawing room, where old meets new, and where the tramway bends between Vieux Nice and the train station. The square’s black-and-white pavement feels like an elegant outdoor ballroom, with the sleek tram waltzing across its dance floor. While once congested with cars, the square today is crossed only by these trams, which swoosh silently by every couple of minutes. The men on pedestals sitting high above are modern-art additions that arrived with the tram. For a mood-altering experience, return after dark and watch the illuminated figures float yoga-like above. Place Masséna is at its sophisticated best after the sun goes down.
This vast square dates from 1848 and pays tribute to Jean-André Masséna, a French military leader during the Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. Not just another pretty face in a long lineup of French military heroes, he’s considered among the greatest commanders in history—anywhere, anytime. Napoleon called him “the greatest name of my military Empire.” No wonder this city is proud of him.
Standing on the square with your back to the fountains, start a clockwise spin tour: Underneath, Nice’s historic river, the Paillon, flows to the sea. For centuries this river was Nice’s natural defense to the north and west (the sea protected the south, and Castle Hill defended the east). A fortified wall once ran along the river’s length to the sea. It’s been covered since the late 1800s.
The modern swoosh sculpture at palm-tree height in the parkway is meant to represent the “curve of the French Riviera”—the arc of the bay. To the right stretches modern Nice, born with the arrival of tourism in the 1800s. Avenue Jean Médecin, Nice’s Champs-Elysées, cuts from here through the new town to the train station. Looking up the avenue, you’ll see the tracks, the freeway, and the Alps beyond. Once crammed with cars, buses, and delivery vehicles tangling with pedestrians, Avenue Jean Médecin was turned into a walking and cycling nirvana in 2007. I used to avoid this street. Now I can’t get enough of it. Businesses along it flourish in the welcoming environment of generous sidewalks and no traffic.
Appreciate the city’s Italian heritage—it feels more like Venice than Paris. The portico flanking Avenue Jean Médecin is Italian, not French. The rich colors of the buildings reflect the taste of previous Italian rulers.
Now turn to the fountains and look east to see Nice’s ongoing effort to “put the human element into the heart of the town.” An ugly concrete bus station and parking structures were demolished not long ago, and the Promenade du Paillon was created to fill the space. Today, this pedestrian-friendly parkway extends from the sea to the Museum of Modern Art—a modern-day Promenade des Anglais. Forming a key spine for biking, walking, and kids at play, the Promenade du Paillon is a delight any time of day. Notice the fountain—its surprise geysers delight children by day and its fine lighting enhances romance at night. Past the fountain stands a bronze statue of the square’s namesake, Masséna. The hills beyond separate Nice from Villefranche-sur-Mer.
To the right of the Promenade du Paillon lies Vieux Nice, with its jumbled and colorful facades below Castle Hill. Looking closer and farther to the right, the statue of Apollo has horsy hair and holds a beach towel (in the fountain) as if to say, “It’s beer o’clock, let’s go.”
• Walk past Apollo into Vieux Nice (careful of those trams). A block down Rue de l’Opéra you’ll see a grouping of rusted girders (described earlier). Turn left onto...
This colorful street leads into the heart of Vieux Nice. On the left is the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall). Peer into the Alziari olive oil shop (at #14 on the right). Dating from 1868, the shop produces top-quality stone-ground olive oil. The proud and charming owner, Gilles Piot, claims that stone wheels create less acidity, since grinding with metal creates heat (see photo in back over the door). Locals fill their own containers from the huge vats.
A few awnings down, La Couqueto is a colorful shop filled with Provençal fabrics and crafts, including lovely folk characters (santons). Walk in for a lavender smell sensation—is madame working the sewing machine upstairs? The boulangerie next door is ideal for a cheap lunch and has good outdoor seating.
Next door is Nice’s grand opera house, built by a student of Charles Garnier (architect of Monte Carlo’s casino and opera house). Imagine this opulent jewel back in the 19th century, buried deep in Vieux Nice. With all the fancy big-city folks wintering here, this rough-edged town needed some high-class entertainment. And Victorians needed an alternative to those “devilish” gambling houses. (Queen Victoria, so disgusted by casinos, would actually close the drapes on her train window when passing Monte Carlo.) The four statues on top represent theater, dance, music, and party poopers.
Across the street, Pâtisserie Auer’s grand old storefront would love to tempt you with chocolates and candied fruits. It’s changed little over the centuries. The writing on the window says, “Since 1820 from father to son.” Wander in for a whiff of chocolate and a dazzling interior. The twin gold royal shields on the back mirrors remind shoppers that Queen Victoria indulged her sweet tooth here.
• Continue on, sifting your way through a cluttered block of tacky souvenir shops to the big market square.
Named for its broad exposure to the sun (soleil), Cours Saleya (koor sah-lay-yuh)—a commotion of color, sights, smells, and people—has been Nice’s main market square since the Middle Ages (flower market all day Tue-Sun, produce market Tue-Sun until 13:00, antiques on Mon). While you’re greeted by the ugly mouth of an underground parking lot, much of this square itself was a parking lot until 1980, when the mayor of Nice had this solution dug. If you’re early enough for coffee, pause for a break at Café le Flore’s outdoor tables in the heart of the market (a block up on the left).
The first section is devoted to the Riviera’s largest flower market. In operation since the 19th century, this market offers plants and flowers that grow effortlessly and ubiquitously in this climate, including the local favorites: carnations, roses, and jasmine. Locals know the season by what’s on sale (mimosas in February, violets in March, and so on). Until the recent rise in imported flowers, this region supplied all of France with flowers. Still, fresh flowers are cheap here, the best value in this expensive city. The Riviera’s three big industries are tourism, flowers, and perfume (made from these flowers...take a whiff).
The boisterous produce section trumpets the season with mushrooms, strawberries, white asparagus, zucchini flowers, and more—whatever’s fresh gets top billing. What’s in season today?
The market opens up at Place Pierre Gautier. It’s also called Plassa dou Gouvernou—you’ll see bilingual street signs here that include the old Niçois language, an Italian dialect. This is where farmers set up stalls to sell their produce and herbs directly. For a great rooftop view over the market, climb the steps by Le Grand Bleu restaurant (you may have to step past a few trash sacks, but it’s allowed). Check out the top level of the two-story buildings nearby; this is where the Brits strolled before their exclusive Promenade des Anglais was built many blocks to the west.
Look up to the hill that dominates to the east. The city of Nice was first settled there by Greeks (circa 400 BC). In the Middle Ages, a massive castle stood there with soldiers at the ready. Over time, the city sprawled down to where you are now. With the river guarding one side (running under today’s Promenade du Paillon parkway) and the sea the other, this mountain fortress seemed strong—until Louis XIV leveled it in 1706. Nice’s medieval seawall ran along the line of two-story buildings where you’re standing.
Now, look across Place Pierre Gautier to the large “palace.” The Ducal Palace was where the kings of Sardinia, the city’s Italian rulers until 1860, resided when in Nice. (For centuries, Nice was under the rule of the Italian capital of Turin.) Today, the palace is the local police headquarters. The land upon which the Cours Saleya sits was once the duke’s gardens and didn’t become a market until Nice’s union with France.
• Continue down Cours Saleya. The faded golden building that seals the end of the square is where Henri Matisse spent 17 years. I imagine he was inspired by his view. The Café les Ponchettes is perfectly positioned for you to enjoy the view too if you want a coffee break. At the café, turn onto...
Look up at the first floor of the first building on your right. Adam and Eve are squaring off, each holding a zucchini-like gourd. This scene represents the annual rapprochement in Nice to make up for the sins of a too-much-fun Carnival (Mardi Gras, the pre-Lenten festival). Residents of Nice have partied hard during Carnival for more than 700 years. The spice shop below offers a fine selection of regional herbs.
As you continue down the street, look above the doors. The iron grills (like the one above #6) allow air to enter the buildings but keep out uninvited guests. You’ll see lots of these open grills in Vieux Nice. They were part of a clever system that sucked in cool air from the sea, circulating it through homes and blowing it out through vents in the roof.
A few steps ahead, check out the small Baroque church (Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation, closed 12:00-14:30) dedicated to Ste. Rita, the patron saint of desperate causes and desperate people (see display in window). She holds a special place in locals’ hearts, making this the most popular church in Nice. Drop in for a peek at the dazzling Baroque decor. The first chapel on the right is dedicated to St. Erasmus, protector of mariners.
• Turn right on the next street, where you’ll pass one of Vieux Nice’s most happening bars (the recommended Distilleries Ideales), with a swashbuckling interior that buzzes until the wee hours. Pause at the next corner and study the classic Vieux Nice scene in all directions. Now turn left on Rue Droite and enter an area that feels like Little Naples.
In the Middle Ages, this straight, skinny street provided the most direct route from river to sea within the old walled town. Pass the recommended restaurant Acchiardo. Notice stepped lanes leading uphill to the castle. Pop into the Jesuit Eglise St-Jacques church (also called Eglise du Gésu) for an explosion of Baroque exuberance hidden behind that plain facade. At the wooden pulpit, notice the crucifix held by a sculpted arm. This clever support allowed the priest to focus on his sermon while reminding the congregation that Christ died for their sins.
We’re turning left onto Rue Rossetti...but if you continued another block along Rue Droite you’d find the 5 Palais Lascaris (c. 1647), home of one of Nice’s most prestigious families. Today it’s a museum and worth a quick look (peek in the entry for free or take a tour, covered by Nice museum €10 combo-ticket, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, from 11:00 off-season, closed Tue year-round). Inside you’ll find a collection of antique musical instruments—harps, guitars, violins, and violas (good English explanations)—along with elaborate tapestries and a few well-furnished rooms. The palace has four levels—but only two are open to the public: The ground floor was used for storage, the first floor was devoted to reception rooms (and musical events), the owners lived a floor above that, and the servants lived at the top. Look up and make faces back at the guys under the balconies.
• Shortly after making a left on Rue Rossetti, you’ll cross Rue Benoît Bunico.
In the 18th century, this street served as a ghetto for Nice’s Jews. At sunset, gates would seal the street at either end, locking people in until daylight. To identify Jews as non-Christians, the men were required to wear yellow stars and the women to wear yellow scarves. Wander a few steps up the street to find the white columns and archway across from #19 that mark what was the synagogue until 1848, when revolution ended the notion of ghettos in France.
• Continue down Rue Rossetti to...
The most Italian of Nice’s piazzas, Place Rossetti comes alive after dark—in part because of the Fenocchio gelato shop, popular for its many innovative flavors.
Check out the Cathedral of St. Réparate—an unassuming building for a big-city cathedral. It was relocated here in the 1500s, when Castle Hill was temporarily converted to military use. The name comes from Nice’s patron saint, a teenage virgin named Réparate, whose martyred body floated to Nice in the fourth century accompanied by angels (remember the Bay of Angels?). The interior of the cathedral gushes Baroque, a response to the challenge of the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century. With the Catholic Church’s Counter-Reformation, the theatrical energy of churches was cranked up with re-energized, high-powered saints and eye-popping decor.
• This is the end of our walk. From here you can hike up Castle Hill (from Place Rossetti, take Rue Rossetti uphill; see Castle Hill listing under “Sights in Nice”). Or you can have an ice cream and browse the colorful lanes of Vieux Nice...or grab Apollo and hit the beach.
Walking or Biking the Promenade
▲▲▲Chagall Museum (Musée National Marc Chagall)
Main Hall: Old Testament Scenes
▲Matisse Museum (Musée Matisse)
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain)
Fine Arts Museum (Musée des Beaux-Arts)
Archaeological Museum (Musée Archéologique)
Masséna Museum (Musée Masséna)
▲Russian Cathedral (Cathédrale Russe)
▲Castle Hill (Colline du Château)
Narrow-Gauge Train into the Alps (Chemins de Fer de Provence)
Enjoying Nice’s four-mile seafront promenade on foot or by bike is an essential Riviera experience. Since the days when wealthy English tourists filled the grand seaside hotels, this stretch has been the place to be in Nice. (For a self-guided walk, see my “Promenade des Anglais Walk,” earlier.)
To rev up the pace of your promenade saunter, rent a bike and glide along the coast in either or both directions (about 30 minutes each way; for rental info see “Helpful Hints,” earlier). Both of the following paths start along Promenade des Anglais.
To the West: The path stops just before the airport at perhaps the most scenic boules courts in France. Pause here to watch the old-timers while away the afternoon tossing shiny metal balls (for more on this game, see here).
To the East: The path rounds the hill—passing a scenic promontory and the town’s memorial to both world wars—to the harbor of Nice, and gives you a chance to survey some fancy yachts. Walk or pedal around the harbor and follow the coast past the Corsica ferry terminal (you’ll need to carry your bike up a flight of steps). From there the path leads to an appealing tree-lined residential district.
Beaches are free to the public (by law). Settle in on the smooth rocks, or get more comfortable by renting a lounge chair or mattress (chaise longue or transat-about €15, umbrella-€5, towel-€5). Have lunch in your bathing suit (€14 salads and pizzas in bars and restaurants all along the beach). I enjoy stopping here first thing in the morning (before the crowds hit) for a peaceful breakfast or café au lait on the Mediterranean. Plage Publique signs (with English translations) explain the 10 beach no-nos.
A combo-ticket covers all of Nice’s museums except the Chagall Museum (see details under “Helpful Hints”). The Chagall Museum requires a separate admission (and is well worth it).
The first two museums (Chagall and Matisse) are a long walk northeast of Nice’s city center. Because they’re in the same direction and served by the same bus line (see “Getting There,” next page), try to visit them on the same trip. From Place Masséna, the Chagall Museum is a 10-minute bus ride, and the Matisse Museum is a few stops beyond that.
(See “Chagall Museum” map.)
Even if you don’t get modern art, this museum—with the world’s largest collection of Marc Chagall’s work in captivity—is a delight. For fans of Chagall, it’s a can’t-miss treat.
After World War II, Chagall returned from the United States to settle first in Vence and later in St-Paul-de-Vence, both not far from Nice. Between 1954 and 1967, he painted a cycle of 17 large murals designed for, and donated to, this museum. These paintings, inspired by the biblical books of Genesis, Exodus, and the Song of Songs, make up the “nave,” or core, of what Chagall called the “House of Brotherhood.” Combining his Russian and Jewish heritage with the Christian message, he hoped this would be a place where people of all faiths could come together and celebrate love.
Cost and Hours: €8, €2 more during frequent special exhibits; Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, Nov-April until 17:00, closed Tue year-round; ticket includes helpful audioguide (though Chagall would suggest that you explore his art without guidance); must check daypacks, idyllic $ garden café (salads and plats), tel. 04 93 53 87 20, http://en.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr.
Getting There: The museum is located on Avenue Docteur Ménard. Taxis from the city center cost about €15. Buses connect the museum with downtown Nice. From downtown, catch bus #15 (Mon-Sat 6/hour, Sun 3/hour, 10 minutes). Catch the bus from the east end of the Galeries Lafayette department store, near the Masséna tram stop, on Rue Sacha Guitry (see map on the next page). Watch for a Musée Chagall sign on the bus shelter where you’ll get off (on Boulevard de Cimiez).
You can walk from the train station to the museum in 20 minutes. Walk to the station’s tram stop, turn left, then make a right on the last street before the overpass—Boulevard Raimbaldi. Follow Boulevard Raimbaldi for several blocks until you see a Lidl grocery store. Turn left on Avenue Raymond Comboul, walk under the freeway, and then follow the signs.
This small museum consists of six rooms: two rooms (the main hall and Song of Songs room) with the 17 murals, two rooms for special exhibits, an auditorium with stained-glass windows, and a mosaic-lined pond (viewed from inside). It takes about one hour to see the whole thing. In the main hall you’ll find the core of the collection (Genesis and Exodus scenes). The adjacent octagonal Song of Songs room houses five more paintings.
At the end of this tour, in the auditorium, you can see a wonderful film about Chagall (52 minutes), which plays at the top of each hour (alternately in French and English—ask about showtimes when you arrive—you may want to see the movie first, then tour the museum; no showings during special exhibits). You can enter the auditorium at any point during the movie and find it worthwhile. Even the French version offers a fascinating look at old clips of the master and a chance to see the creative energy and charisma in his eyes.
Self-Guided Tour• Buy your ticket, pass through the garden, and enter the museum at the baggage-check counter. Pick up your included audioguide and step into the main hall.
Each painting is a lighter-than-air collage of images that draws from Chagall’s Russian folk-village youth, his Jewish heritage, the Bible, and his feeling that he existed somewhere between heaven and earth. He believed that the Bible was a synonym for nature, and that both color and biblical themes were key for understanding God’s love for his creation. Chagall’s brilliant blues and reds celebrate nature, as do his spiritual and folk themes. Notice the focus on couples. To Chagall, humans loving each other mirrored God’s love of creation.
The paintings are described in the order you should see them, going counterclockwise around the room.
Abraham and the Three Angels: In the heat of the day, Abraham looked up and saw three men. He said, “Let a little food and water be brought, so you can be refreshed...” (Genesis 18:1-5)
Abraham refreshes God’s angels on this red-hot day and, in return, they promise Abraham a son (in the bubble, at right), thus making him the father of the future Israelite nation.
The Sacrifice of Isaac: Abraham bound his son Isaac and laid him on the altar. Then he took the knife to slay his son. But the angel of the Lord called out to him from heaven, “Abraham!” (Genesis 22:9-11)
Tested by God, Abraham prepares to kill his only son, but the angel stops him in time. Notice that Isaac is posed exactly as Adam is in The Creation (described next). Abraham’s sacrifice echoes three others: the sacrifice all men must make (Adam, the everyman), the sacrifice of atonement (the goat tied to a tree at left), and even God’s sacrifice of his own son (Christ carrying the cross, upper right).
The Creation: God said, “Let us make man in our image, in our likeness...” (Genesis 1:26)
A pure-white angel descends through the blue sky and carries a still-sleeping Adam from radiant red-yellow heaven to earth. Heaven is a whirling dervish of activity, spinning out all the events of future history, from the tablets of the Ten Commandments to the Crucifixion—an overture of many images that we’ll see in later paintings. (Though not a Christian, Chagall saw the Crucifixion as a universal symbol of man’s suffering.)
Moses Receives the Ten Commandments: The Lord gave him the two tablets of the Law, the tablets of stone inscribed by the finger of God... (Exodus 31:18)
An astonished Moses stretches toward heaven, where God reaches out from a cloud to hand him the Ten Commandments. While Moses tilts one way, Mount Sinai slants the other, leading our eye up to the left, where a golden calf is being worshipped by the wayward Children of Israel. But down to the right, Aaron and the menorah assure us that Moses will set things right. In this radiant final panel, the Jewish tradition—after a long struggle—is finally established.
• Skip around the corner to...
Driven from Paradise: So God banished him from the Garden of Eden...and placed cherubim and a flaming sword to guard the way... (Genesis 3:23-24)
An angel drives them out with a fire hose of blue (there’s Adam still cradling his flaming-red coq), while a sparkling yellow, flower-filled tree stands like a wall preventing them from ever returning. Deep in the green colors, the painting offers us glimpses of the future—Eve giving birth (lower-right corner) and the yellow sacrificial goat of atonement (top right).
Chagall uses a deceptively simple, almost childlike style to paint a world that’s hidden to the eye—the magical, mystical world below the surface. Here are some of the characteristics of his paintings:
Deep, radiant colors, inspired by Expressionism and Fauvism (an art movement pioneered by Matisse and other French painters).
Personal imagery, particularly from his childhood in Russia—smiling barnyard animals, fiddlers on the roof, flower bouquets, huts, and blissful sweethearts.
A Hasidic Jewish perspective, the idea that God is everywhere, appearing in everyday things like nature, animals, and humdrum activities.
A fragmented Cubist style, multifaceted and multidimensional, a perfect style to mirror the complexity of God’s creation.
Overlapping images, like double-exposure photography, with faint imagery that bleeds through, suggesting there’s more to life under the surface.
Stained-glass-esque technique of dark, deep, earthy, “potent” colors, and simplified, iconic, symbolic figures.
Gravity-defying compositions, with lovers, animals, and angels twirling blissfully in midair.
Happy (not tragic) mood depicting a world of personal joy, despite the violence and turmoil of world wars and revolution.
Childlike simplicity, drawn with simple, heavy outlines, filled in with Crayola colors that often spill over the lines. Major characters in a scene are bigger than the lesser characters. The grinning barnyard animals, the bright colors, the magical events presented as literal truth...Was Chagall a lightweight? Or a lighter-than-air-weight?
Paradise: God put him in the Garden of Eden...and said, “You must not eat from the tree of the knowledge of good and evil...” (Genesis 2:15-17)
Paradise is a rich, earth-as-seen-from-space pool of blue, green, and white. On the left, amoebic, still-evolving animals float around Adam (celibately practicing yoga) and Eve (with lusty-red hair). On the right, an angel guards the tempting tree, but Eve offers an apple and Adam reaches around to sample the forbidden fruit while the snake gawks knowingly.
1887-1910: Russia
Chagall is born in the small town of Vitebsk, Belarus. He’s the oldest of nine children in a traditional Russian Hasidic Jewish family. He studies realistic art in his hometown. In St. Petersburg, he is first exposed to the Modernist work of Paul Cézanne and the Fauves.
1910-1914: Paris
A patron finances a four-year stay in Paris. Chagall hobnobs with the avant-garde and learns technique from the Cubists, but he never abandons painting recognizable figures or his own personal fantasies. (Some say his relative poverty forced him to paint over used canvases, which gave him the idea of overlapping images that bleed through. Hmm.)
1914-1922: Russia
Returning to his hometown, Chagall marries Bella Rosenfeld (1915), whose love will inspire him for decades. He paints happy scenes despite the turmoil of wars and the Communist Revolution. Moving to Moscow (1920), he paints his first large-scale works, sets for the New Jewish Theater. These would inspire many of his later large-scale works.
1923-1941: France and Palestine
Chagall returns to France. In 1931 he travels to Palestine, where the bright sun and his Jewish roots inspire a series of gouaches (opaque watercolor paintings). These gouaches would later inspire 105 etchings to illustrate the Bible (1931-1952), which would eventually influence the 17 large canvases of biblical scenes in the Chagall Museum (1954-1967).
1941-1947: United States/World War II
Fearing persecution for his Jewish faith, Chagall emigrates to New York, where he spends the war years. The Crucifixion starts to appear in his paintings—not as a Christian symbol, but as a representation of the violence mankind perpetrates on itself. In 1944 his beloved Bella dies, and he stops painting for months.
1947-1985: South of France
After the war, Chagall returns to France, eventually settling in St-Paul-de-Vence. In 1952 he remarries. His new love, Valentina Brodsky, plus the southern sunshine, brings Chagall a revived creativity—he is extremely prolific for the rest of his life. He experiments with new techniques and media—ceramics, sculpture, book illustrations, tapestry, and mosaic. In 1956 he’s commissioned for his first stained-glass project. Eventually he does windows for cathedrals in Metz and Reims, and a synagogue in Jerusalem (1960). The Chagall Museum opens in 1973.
The Rainbow: God said, “I have set my rainbow in the clouds as a sign of the covenant between me and the earth.” (Genesis 9:13)
A flaming angel sets the rainbow in the sky, while Noah rests beneath it and his family offers a sacrifice of thanks. The pure-white rainbow’s missing colors are found radiating from the features of the survivors.
Jacob’s Ladder: He had a dream in which he saw a ladder resting on the earth with its top reaching to heaven, and the angels of God were ascending and descending on it... (Genesis 28:12)
In the left half, Jacob (Abraham’s grandson, in red) slumps asleep and dreams of a ladder between heaven and earth. On the right, a lofty angel with a menorah represents how heaven and earth are bridged by the rituals of the Jewish tradition.
Jacob Wrestles with an Angel: So Jacob wrestled with him till daybreak. Jacob said, “I will not let you go unless you bless me...” (Genesis 32: 24, 26)
Jacob holds on while the angel blesses him with descendants (the Children of Israel) and sends out rays from his hands. On the right are scenes from Jacob’s life, including his son Joseph being stripped of his bright-red coat and sold into slavery by his brothers.
Noah’s Ark: Then he sent out a dove to see if the water had receded... (Genesis 8:8)
Adam and Eve’s descendants have become so wicked that God destroys the earth with a flood, engulfing the sad crowd on the right. Only righteous Noah (center), his family (lower right), and the animals (including our yellow goat) are spared inside an ark. Here Noah opens the ark’s window and sends out a dove to test the waters.
Moses Brings Water from the Rock: The Lord said, “Strike the rock, and water will come out of it for the people to drink...” (Exodus 17:5-6)
In the brown desert, Moses nourishes his thirsty people with water miraculously spouting from a rock. From the (red-yellow) divine source, it rains down actual (blue) water, but also a gush of spiritual yellow light.
Moses and the Burning Bush: The angel of the Lord appeared to him in flames of fire from within a bush... (Exodus 3:2)
Horned Moses—Chagall depicts him according to a medieval tradition—kneels awestruck before the burning bush, the event that calls him to God’s service. On the left, we see Moses after the call, his face radiant, leading the Israelites out of captivity across the Red Sea, while Pharaoh’s men drown (lower half of Moses’ robe). The Ten Commandments loom ahead.
• Return to Moses Receives the Ten Commandments, then walk past a window into a room with five red paintings.
Chagall wrote, “I’ve been fascinated by the Bible ever since my earliest childhood. I have always thought of it as the most extraordinary source of poetic inspiration imaginable. As far as I am concerned, perfection in art and in life has its source in the Bible, and exercises in the mechanics of the merely rational are fruitless. In art as well as in life, anything is possible, provided there is love.”
The paintings in this room were inspired by the Old Testament Song of Songs. Chagall cherished verses such as: I sleep, but my heart is awake (5:2). Until the day breaks and the shadows flee, turn, my lover, and be like a gazelle or like a young stag on the rugged hills (2:17). Your stature is like that of the palm, and your breasts like clusters of fruit (7:7). Chagall, who dedicated this room to his wife Valentina (Vava), saw divine love and physical love as a natural mix.
Chagall enjoyed the love of two women in his long life—his first wife, Bella, then Valentina, who gave him a second wind as he was painting these late works. Chagall was one of the few “serious” 20th-century artists to portray unabashed love. Where the Bible uses the metaphor of earthly, physical, sexual love to describe God’s love for humans, Chagall uses unearthly colors and a mystical ambience to celebrate human love. These red-toned canvases are hard to interpret literally, but they capture the rosy spirit of a man in love with life.
• Head back toward the entry and turn left at The Sacrifice of Isaac to find the...
The great mosaic (which no longer reflects in the filthy reflecting pond) evokes the prophet Elijah in his chariot of fire (from the Second Book of Kings)—with Chagall’s addition of the 12 signs of the zodiac, which he used to symbolize Time.
• Return to the main hall, veer left, and exit the hall to the right. Pass through the exhibition room with temporary displays. At the end, you’ll find the...
This room, where the Chagall documentary film shows (see “Overview,” earlier), is worth a peaceful moment to enjoy three Chagall stained-glass windows depicting the seven days of creation (right to left): the creation of light, elements, and planets (a visual big bang that’s four “days” wide); the creation of animals, plants, man and woman, and the ordering of the solar system (two “days” wide, complete with fish and birds still figuring out where they belong); and the day of rest (the narrowest—only one “day” wide, imagine angels singing to the glory of God).
• Our tour is over. From here, you can return to downtown Nice or head to the Matisse Museum. Taxis usually wait in front of the museum. For the bus back to downtown Nice, turn right out of the museum, then make another right down Boulevard de Cimiez, and ride bus #15 heading downhill. To continue to the Matisse Museum, catch #15 using the uphill stop located across the street, or enjoy a 20-minute walk uphill passing belle-époque villas at every turn.
To walk to the train station area from the museum (20 minutes), turn right out of the museum grounds and follow the first street to the right (hugging the museum). Drop down ramps and staircases, turn left at the bottom under the freeway and train tracks, then turn right on Boulevard Raimbaldi.
This small, underachieving museum fills an old mansion in a park surrounded by scant Roman ruins, and houses a limited sampling of works from the various periods of Henri Matisse’s artistic career. The museum offers an introduction to the artist’s many styles and materials, both shaped by Mediterranean light and by fellow Côte d’Azur artists Picasso and Renoir.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice museum combo-ticket; Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, mid-Oct-mid-June from 11:00, closed Tue year-round, 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, tel. 04 93 81 08 08, www.musee-matisse-nice.org.
Getting There: Take a cab (€20 from Promenade des Anglais). Alternatively, hop bus #15, direction: Rimiez, from the east end of Galeries Lafayette (from train station, catch #17, direction: Cimiez Hôpital). Get off at the Arènes-Matisse bus stop (look for the crumbling Roman arena that once held 10,000 spectators), then walk 50 yards into the park to find the pink villa.
Background: Henri Matisse, the master of leaving things out, could suggest a woman’s body with a single curvy line—letting the viewer’s mind fill in the rest. Ignoring traditional 3-D perspective, he expressed his passion for life through simplified but recognizable scenes in which dark outlines and saturated, bright blocks of color create an overall decorative pattern.
Here’s an outline of Henri Matisse’s busy life:
1880s and 1890s: At age 20, Matisse, a budding lawyer, is struck down with appendicitis. Bedridden for a year, he turns to painting as a healing escape from pain and boredom. After recovering, he studies art in Paris and produces dark-colored, realistic still lifes and landscapes. His work is exhibited at the Salons of 1896 and 1897.
1897-1905: Influenced by the Impressionists, he experiments with sunnier scenes and brighter colors. He travels to southern France, including Collioure (on the coast near Spain), and seeks still more light-filled scenes to paint. His experiments are influenced by Vincent van Gogh’s bright, surrealistic colors and thick outlines, and by Paul Gauguin’s primitive visions of a Tahitian paradise. From Paul Cézanne, he learns how to simplify objects into their basic geometric shapes. He also experiments (like Cézanne) with creating the illusion of 3-D not by traditional means, but by using contrasting colors for the foreground and background.
1905: Back in Paris, Matisse and his colleagues (André Derain and Maurice de Vlaminck) shock the art world with an exhibition of their experimental paintings. The thick outlines, simple forms, flattened perspective, and—most of all—bright, clashing, unrealistic colors seem to be the work of “wild animals” (fauves). Fauvism is hot, and Matisse is instantly famous. (Though notorious as a “wild animal,” Matisse himself was a gentle, introspective man.)
1906-1910: After just a year, Fauvism is out, and African masks are in. This “primitive” art form inspires Matisse to simplify and distort his figures further, making them less realistic but more expressive.
1910-1917: Matisse creates his masterpiece paintings. Cubism is the rage, pioneered by Matisse’s friend and rival for the World’s Best Painter award, Pablo Picasso. Matisse dabbles in Cubism, simplifying forms, emphasizing outline, and muting his colors. But ultimately it proves to be too austere and analytical for his deeply sensory nature. The Cubist style is most evident in his sculpture.
1920s: Burned out from years of intense experimentation, Matisse moves to Nice (spending winters there from 1917, settling permanently in 1921). Luxuriating under the bright sun, he’s reborn, and he paints colorful, sensual, highly decorative works. Harem concubines lounging in their sunny, flowery apartments epitomize the lush life.
1930s: A visit to Tahiti inspires more scenes of life as a sunny paradise. Matisse experiments with bolder lines, swirling arabesques, and decorative patterns.
1940s: Duodenal cancer (in 1941) requires Matisse to undergo two operations and confines him to a wheelchair for the rest of his life. Working at an easel becomes a struggle for him, and he largely stops painting in 1941. But as World War II ends, Matisse emerges with renewed energy. Now in his 70s, he explores a new medium: paper cutouts pasted onto a watercolored surface (découpage on gouache-prepared surface). The technique plays to his strengths—the cutouts are essentially blocks of bright color (mostly blue) with a strong outline. Scissors in hand, Matisse says, “I draw straight into the color.” (His doctor advises him to wear dark glasses to protect his weak eyes against the bright colors he chooses.) In 1947, Matisse’s book Jazz is published, featuring the artist’s joyful cutouts of simple figures. Like jazz music, the book is a celebration of artistic spontaneity. And like music in general, Matisse’s works balance different tones and colors to create a mood.
1947-1951: Matisse’s nurse becomes a Dominican nun in Vence. To thank her for her care, he spends his later years designing a chapel there. He oversees every aspect of the Chapel of the Rosary (Chapelle du Rosaire) at Vence, from the stained glass to the altar to the colors of the priest’s robe (see here). Though Matisse is not a strong Christian, the church exudes his spirit of celebrating life and sums up his work.
1954: Matisse dies.
Matisse understood how colors and shapes affect us emotionally. He could create either shocking, clashing works (early Fauvism) or geometrical, balanced, harmonious ones (later cutouts). Whereas other modern artists reveled in purely abstract design, Matisse (almost) always kept the subject matter at least vaguely recognizable. He used unreal colors and distorted lines not just to portray what an object looks like, but to express its inner nature (even inanimate objects). Meditating on his paintings helps you connect with life—or so Matisse hoped.
As you tour the museum, look for Matisse’s favorite motifs—including fruit, flowers, wallpaper, and sunny rooms—often with a window opening onto a sunny landscape. Another favorite subject is the odalisque (harem concubine), usually shown sprawled in a seductive pose and with a simplified, masklike face. You’ll also see a few souvenirs from his travels, which influenced much of his work.
Visiting the Museum: The museum is in a constant state of flux, so expect changes from this description. Enter on the basement floor and find Matisse’s colorful paper cutout Flowers and Fruits hanging from the wall. This piece makes a fine introduction to his decorative art, shouting “Riviera!” The basement also has a room devoted to two 25-foot-long watery cutouts for an uncompleted pool project (La Piscine) for the city of Nice, which shows his abiding love of deep blue.
On the mezzanine above, leaf through discarded cutouts from various papier-mâché works and find black-and-white photos of the artist at work and play.
Rooms on the street level usually contain paintings from Matisse’s formative years as a student (1890s) and are the highlight of the museum for me. Notice how quickly his work evolves: from dark still lifes (nature mortes), to colorful Impressionist scenes, to more abstract works, all in the matter of a few years. Find the translation of his “Découverte de la Lumière” (discovery of light), which the Riviera (and his various travels to sun-soaked places like Corsica, Collioure, and Tahiti) brought to his art. To appreciate the speed of change in his painting, notice the dramatic differences in his portraits of Madame Matisse, painted just a few years apart.
Other rooms on this floor (or nearby) highlight Matisse’s fascination with dance and the female body. You’ll see pencil and charcoal drawings, and a handful of bronze busts; he was fascinated by sculpture. The Acrobat—painted only two years before Matisse’s death—shows the artist at his minimalist best.
The floor above features sketches and models of Matisse’s famous Chapel of the Rosary in nearby Vence (see here) and related religious works. On the same floor, you might find paper cutouts from his Jazz or Dance series, more bronze sculptures, various personal objects, and linen embroideries inspired by his travels to Polynesia.
Leaving the Museum: Turn left from the museum into the park, exiting at the Archaeological Museum, and turn right at the street. The bus stop across the street is for bus #17, which goes to the train station, and #20, which heads to the port. For bus #15 (frequent service to downtown and the Chagall Museum), continue walking—with the Roman ruins on your right—to the small roundabout, and find the shelter (facing downhill).
This ultramodern museum features an explosively colorful, far-out, yet manageable collection focused on American and European-American artists from the 1960s and 1970s (Pop Art and New Realism are highlighted; see here for an overview of modern art on the Riviera). The exhibits cover three floors, one of which is devoted to temporary shows. The permanent collection usually includes a few works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Jean Tinguely. You should also find rooms dedicated to Yves Klein and Niki de Saint Phalle. English explanations are posted in some rooms, and there’s a good timeline of Riviera artists from 1947 to 1977. The temporary exhibits can be as appealing to modern-art lovers as the permanent collection: Check the museum website for what’s playing. Don’t leave without exploring the views from the rooftop terrace.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice museum combo-ticket, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, mid-Oct-mid-June from 11:00, closed Mon year-round, near Vieux Nice on Promenade des Arts, tel. 04 93 62 61 62, www.mamac-nice.org.
Housed in a sumptuous Riviera villa with lovely gardens, this museum lacks a compelling collection but holds 6,000 artworks from the 17th to 20th centuries. Start on the first floor and work your way up to enjoy paintings by Monet, Sisley, Bonnard, and Raoul Dufy, as well as a few sculptures by Rodin and Carpeaux.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice museum combo-ticket, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, mid-Oct-mid-June from 11:00, closed Mon year-round, inconveniently located at the western end of Nice, take bus #12 from train station to Rosa Bonheur stop and walk to 3 Avenue des Baumettes; tel. 04 92 15 28 28, www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org.
This museum displays various objects from the Romans’ occupation of this region. It’s convenient—just below the Matisse Museum—but is of little interest except to ancient Rome aficionados (scant information in English). Entry includes access to the poorly maintained Roman bath ruins (ask for the English handout).
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice museum combo-ticket, Wed-Mon 11:00-18:00, closed Tue, near Matisse Museum at 160 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, tel. 04 93 81 59 57.
Like Nice’s main square, this museum was named in honor of Jean-André Masséna (born in Antibes), a highly regarded commander during France’s Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. The beachfront mansion is worth a look for its lavish decor and lovely gardens alone (few English labels in museum, but a €3 booklet in English may be available).
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice museum combo-ticket, always free to enter gardens, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, mid-Oct-mid-June from 11:00, closed Tue year-round, 35 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 91 19 10.
Visiting the Museum: There are three levels. The elaborate reception rooms on the ground floor host occasional exhibits and give the best feeling for aristocratic Nice from 1860, when it joined France, until World War I (find Masséna’s portrait to the right).
The first floor up, offering a folk-museum-like look at Nice through the years, deserves most of your time. Start in a small room dedicated to the museum’s namesake, Jean-André Masséna, then find Napoleonic paraphernalia, including the emperor’s vest and sword, and Josephine’s impressive cape and tiara. Moving counterclockwise around the floor, find bric-a-brac of the aristocracy and antique posters promoting vacations in Nice—look for the model and photos of the long-gone La Jetée Promenade and its casino, Nice’s first. You’ll see paintings of some of the Russian and British nobility who appreciated Nice’s climate (including imperious Queen Victoria, who is most responsible for igniting tourism in Nice). You’ll eventually see a dashing painting honoring Italian patriot and Nice favorite Giuseppe Garibaldi, then find a room with images of Nice before the Promenade des Anglais was built and before the town’s river was covered over by Place Masséna. The top floor is a painting gallery with temporary exhibits.
The gardens on the seaward side of the museum house a memorial to the 86 people who died in the terrorist attack on the Promenade des Anglais in 2016.
Nice’s Russian Orthodox church—claimed by some to be the finest outside Russia—is worth a visit. Five hundred rich Russian families wintered in Nice in the late 19th century, and they needed a worthy Orthodox house of worship. Dowager Czarina Maria Feodorovna and her son, Nicholas II, offered the land for the construction, which began in 1903. Nicholas underwrote much of the project and gave this church to the Russian community in 1912. (A few years later, Russian comrades who didn’t winter on the Riviera assassinated him.) Here in the land of olives and anchovies, these proud onion domes seem odd. But, I imagine, so did those old Russians.
Cost and Hours: Free; daily 9:30-17:30 except during services, chanted services Sat at 18:00, Sun at 10:00; no tourist visits during services, no shorts, Avenue Nicolas II, tel. 04 93 96 88 02, www.sobor.fr.
Getting There: It’s a 15-minute walk from the train station. Head west on Avenue Thiers for 10 minutes, then turn right on Avenue Gambetta, go under the tracks then look for signs. Or take any bus heading west from the station on Avenue Thiers and get off as close to Avenue Gambetta as you can.
Visiting the Cathedral: Before entering, enjoy the exterior done in the “old Russian” style, inspired by the 16th- and 17th-century Russian religious architecture. Russian President Vladimir Putin funded the fine restoration of the facade. The park around the church stays open at lunch and makes a nice setting for picnics. There’s also clean (pay) WC.
Step inside. The one-room interior is filled with icons and candles, and traditional Russian music adds to the ambience. The wall of icons (iconostasis) divides the spiritual realm from the temporal world of the worshippers. Only the priest can walk between the two worlds, by using the “Royal Door.”
Get close to the altar and take a look at items lining the front. In the left corner, look for the icon of St. Nicholas, the most venerated one in the cathedral. On the right, find a striking icon of Our Lady of Kazan, painted on wood and set in an array of silver and precious stones. The archangel Michael with red boots and wings—the protector of the Romanov family—stands over a symbolic tomb of Christ a little right of center (on the doors used only by the priests).
The tall, black, hammered-copper cross commemorates the massacre of Nicholas II and his family in 1918. Notice the Jesus icon to the right of the Royal Door. According to a priest here, as worshippers meditate, staring deep into the eyes of Jesus, they enter a lake where they find their souls. Surrounded by incense, chanting, and your entire community...it could happen. Closer in on the right on the easel, the icon of the Virgin and Child is decorated with semiprecious stones from the Ural Mountains. Artists worked a triangle into each iconic face—symbolic of the Trinity.
This hill—in an otherwise flat city center—offers sensational views over Nice, the port (to the east, created for trade and military use in the 15th century), the foothills of the Alps, and the Mediterranean. The views are best early, at sunset, or whenever the weather’s clear.
Nice was founded on this hill. Its residents were crammed onto the hilltop until the 12th century, as it was too risky to live in the flatlands below. Today you’ll find a playground, a café, and a cemetery—but no castle—on Castle Hill.
Cost and Hours: Park is free and closes at 20:00 in summer, earlier off-season.
Getting There: You can get to the top by foot, by elevator (free, daily April-Sept 9:00-19:00, until 20:00 in summer, Oct-March 10:00-18:00, next to beachfront Hôtel Suisse), or by pricey tourist train (see “Tours in Nice,” earlier).
See the “Promenade des Anglais Walk” for a pleasant stroll that ends near Castle Hill.
Leaving Castle Hill: After enjoying the views and hilltop fun, you can walk via the cemetery directly down into Vieux Nice (just follow the signs), descend to the beach (via the elevator or a stepped lane next to it), or hike down the back side to Nice’s port (departure point for boat trips and buses to Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer).
Leave the tourists behind and take the scenic train-bus-train combination that runs between Nice and Digne through canyons, along whitewater rivers, and through tempting villages (4/day, departs Nice from Chemins de Fer de Provence Station, two blocks from the Libération tram stop, 4 Rue Alfred Binet, tel. 04 97 03 80 80, www.trainprovence.com).
An appealing stop on the scenic railway is little Entrevaux, a good destination that feels forgotten and still stuck in its medieval shell (about €25 round-trip, 1.5 scenic hours from Nice). Cross the bridge, meet someone friendly, and consider the steep hike up to the citadel (€3, TI tel. 04 93 05 45 73).
The city is a walker’s delight after dark. Promenade des Anglais, Cours Saleya, Vieux Nice, Promenade du Paillon, and Place Masséna are all worth an evening wander. I can’t get enough of the night scene on Place Masséna and around the adjacent fountains.
Nice’s bars play host to a happening late-night scene, filled with jazz, rock, and trolling singles. Most activity focuses on Vieux Nice. Rue de la Préfecture and Place du Palais are ground zero for bar life, though Place Rossetti and Rue Droite are also good targets. Distilleries Ideales is a good place to start or end your evening, with a lively international crowd, a Pirates of the Caribbean interior, and a Cheers vibe (lots of beers on tap, where Rue de la Poissonnerie and Rue Barillerie meet, happy hour 18:00-21:00). Wayne’s Bar and others nearby are happening spots for the younger, Franco-Anglo backpacker crowd (15 Rue Préfecture; see “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map). Along the Promenade des Anglais, the classy Le Relais bar at Hôtel Negresco is fancy-cigar old English with frequent live jazz. To savor fine views over Nice, find the Hotel Aston La Scala’s seventh-floor bar/terrace, which is a good spot for a drink any night but offers jazz and blues on Thursdays and Fridays and a DJ on Saturdays (daily 17:00 to late, on the Promenade du Paillon at 12 Avenue Félix Faure, tel. 04 92 17 53 00).
Don’t look for charm in Nice. Seek out a good location and modern, reliable amenities (like air-conditioning). The price rankings given here are for April through October. Prices generally drop considerably November through March and sometimes in April, but go sky-high during the Nice Carnival (in February), the Cannes Film Festival (May), and Monaco’s Grand Prix (late May). Between the film festival and the Grand Prix, the second half of May is slammed. Nice is also one of Europe’s top convention cities, and June is convention month here.
I’ve divided my sleeping recommendations into three areas: city center, Vieux Nice, and near the Promenade des Anglais. Those in the city center are between the train station and Place Masséna (easy access to the train station and Vieux Nice via the T-1 tram, 15-minute walk to Promenade des Anglais). Those in Vieux Nice are between Place Masséna and the sea (east of the parkway, good access to the sea at Quai des Etats-Unis). And those near the Promenade des Anglais are farther west, between Boulevard Victor Hugo and the sea (a classier and quieter area easily reached by tram T-2, offering better access to the sea but longer walks to the train station and Vieux Nice). For parking, ask your hotelier, or see “Arrival in Nice—By Car” on here.
The train station area offers Nice’s cheapest sleeps, but the neighborhood feels sketchy after dark. The cheapest places are older, well worn, and come with some street noise. Places closer to Avenue Jean Médecin are more expensive and in a more comfortable area.
$$$$ Hôtel du Petit Palais**** is a little belle-époque jewel with 25 handsome rooms tucked neatly into a residential area on the hill several blocks from the Chagall Museum. It’s bird-chirping peaceful and plush, with tastefully designed rooms, a garden terrace, and small pool. You’ll walk 15 minutes down to Vieux Nice (or use bus #15); free street parking is usually easy to find (17 Avenue Emile Bieckert, tel. 04 93 62 19 11, www.petitpalaisnice.com, reservation@petitpalaisnice.com).
$$ Hôtel Vendôme*** gives you a whiff of the belle époque, with pink pastels, high ceilings, and grand staircases in a mansion set off the street. The modern rooms come in all sizes; many have balconies (limited pay parking—book ahead, 26 Rue Pastorelli at the corner of Rue Alberti, tel. 04 93 62 00 77, www.hotel-vendome-nice.com, contact@vendome-hotel-nice.com).
$$ Hôtel St. Georges,** five blocks from the station toward the sea, offers a practical location, a pleasant backyard patio, and friendly Houssein at the reception. Rooms are dark and basic but adequate and fairly priced (family rooms, limited parking—book ahead, 7 Avenue Georges Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 88 79 21, www.hotelsaintgeorges.fr, contact@hotelsaintgeorges.fr).
$ Hôtel Durante*** rents quiet rooms in a happy, orange building with rooms wrapped around a flowery courtyard. All but two of rooms overlook the well-maintained patio. The rooms have adequate comfort (mostly modern decor), the price is right, and the parking is free on a first-come, first-served basis (family rooms, 16 Avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 84 40, www.hotel-durante.com, info@hotel-durante.com).
$ Hôtel Ibis Nice Centre Gare,*** 100 yards to the right as you leave the station, provides a secure refuge in this seedy area. It’s big (200 rooms), modern, has well-configured rooms and a pool, and is next to a handy parking garage (bar, café, 14 Avenue Thiers, tel. 04 93 88 85 85, www.ibishotel.com, h1396@accor.com).
$ Hôtel Belle Meunière,* in an old mansion built for Napoleon III’s mistress, attracts budget-minded travelers with cheap rates a block below the train station. Simple but well kept, the place has adequate rooms and charismatic Mademoiselle Marie-Pierre presiding with her perfect English (family rooms, air-con, no elevator but just 3 floors, laundry service, limited pay parking, 21 Avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 66 15, www.bellemeuniere.com, hotel.belle.meuniere@cegetel.net).
¢ B&B Nice Home Sweet Home is a good budget value. Laid-back Genevieve (a.k.a. Jennifer) Levert rents out four large rooms and one small single in her home. Her cavernous rooms are artfully decorated, with high ceilings, big windows, and space to spread out (cheaper rooms with shared bath, no air-conditioning, elevator, one floor up, laundry services, kitchen access, 35 Rue Rossini at intersection with Rue Auber, mobile 06 50 83 25 85, glevert@free.fr).
Hostel: The fun, good-value ¢ Auberge de Jeunesse les Camélias has a handy location, modern facilities, and lively evening atmosphere. Rooms accommodate four to eight people and come with showers and sinks—WCs are down the hall (includes breakfast, rooms closed 11:00-15:00 but can leave bags, laundry, kitchen, safes, bar, 3 Rue Spitalieri, tel. 04 93 62 15 54, www.hihostels.com, accueil.nice@hifrance.org).
These hotels are close to the beach. The Negresco and West End are big, vintage Nice hotels that open onto the sea from the heart of the Promenade des Anglais.
$$$$ Hôtel Negresco***** owns Nice’s most prestigious address on the Promenade des Anglais and knows it. Still, it’s the kind of place that if you were to splurge just once in your life... Rooms are opulent (see my “Promenade des Anglais Walk” for more description), tips are expected, and it seems the women staying here have cosmetically augmented lips (some view rooms, très classy bar, 37 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 16 64 00, www.hotel-negresco-nice.com, reservations@hotel-negresco.com).
$$$$ Hôtel West End**** opens onto the Promenade des Anglais with formal service and decor, classy public spaces, and high prices (some view rooms, 31 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 92 14 44 00, www.hotel-westend.com, reservation@westendnice.com).
$$$ Hôtel Splendid**** is a worthwhile splurge if you miss your Marriott. The panoramic rooftop pool, bar/restaurant, and breakfast room almost justify the cost...but throw in plush rooms, a free gym, and spa services, and you’re as good as at home (pay parking, 50 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 16 41 00, www.splendid-nice.com, info@splendid-nice.com).
$$$ Hôtel Villa Victoria**** is a service-oriented place managed by cheery and efficient Marlena and her staff, who welcome travelers into a classy old building with a spacious lobby overlooking a sprawling and wonderful rear garden-courtyard. Rooms are comfortable and well kept, but those facing the street come with some noise (pay parking, 33 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 39 60, www.villa-victoria.com, contact@villa-victoria.com).
$$$ Le Grimaldi**** is a lovely place with a beautiful lobby and 48 spacious rooms with high ceilings and tasteful decor (big breakfast extra, a few suites and connecting rooms ideal for families, 15 Rue Grimaldi, tel. 04 93 16 00 24, www.le-grimaldi.com, info@le-grimaldi.com).
$$ Hôtel Gounod*** is a fine value behind Hôtel Splendid. Because the two share the same owners, Gounod’s guests are allowed free access to Splendid’s pool, hot tub, and other amenities. Most rooms are quiet, with high ceilings and traditional decor (family rooms, pay parking, 3 Rue Gounod, tel. 04 93 16 42 00, www.gounod-nice.com, info@gounod-nice.com).
$$ Hôtel Carlton*** is a good deal. It’s a well-run, unpretentious, and comfortable place with spacious, simply decorated rooms, many with decks (26 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 87 83, www.hotel-carlton-nice.com, info@hotel-carlton-nice.com, helpful Lionel at reception).
$$ Hôtel les Cigales,*** a few blocks from the Promenade des Anglais, is a sweet little place with 19 sharp and richly colored rooms and a cool upstairs terrace, all well managed by friendly Veronique and Elaine (RS%, 16 Rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 97 03 10 70, www.hotel-lescigales.com, info@hotel-lescigales.com).
$ Hôtel Victor Hugo, a traditional and spotless seven-room hotel, is an adorable time-warp place where Gilles warmly welcomes guests. All rooms are on the ground floor and come with kitchenettes and air-conditioning. While it’s a short walk from the Promenade des Anglais, it’s a hefty walk from Vieux Nice (RS%, includes breakfast, 59 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 12 39, www.hotel-victor-hugo-nice.com).
Most of these hotels are either on the sea or within an easy walk of it. (Hôtel Lafayette and the Villa Saint Exupéry Beach hostel are more central).
$$$$ Hôtel la Perouse,**** built into the rock of Castle Hill at the east end of the bay, is a fine splurge. This refuge-hotel is top-to-bottom flawless in every detail—from its elegant rooms (satin curtains, velour headboards) and attentive staff to its rooftop terrace with hot tub, sleek pool, and lovely $$$$ garden restaurant. Sleep here to be spoiled and escape the big city (good family options, 11 Quai Rauba Capeu, tel. 04 93 62 34 63, www.hotel-la-perouse.com, lp@hotel-la-perouse.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Suisse,**** below Castle Hill, has brilliant sea and city views for a price—sleep elsewhere if you don’t land a view. It’s surprisingly quiet given the busy street below (most view rooms have balconies, 15 Quai Rauba Capeu, tel. 04 92 17 39 00, www.hotels-ocre-azur.com, hotel.suisse@hotels-ocre-azur.com).
$$$ Hôtel Albert 1er*** is a fair deal in a central, busy location on Albert I Park, two blocks from the beach and Place Masséna. The staff is formal and the rooms are well appointed and spotless, with heavy brown tones. Some have views of the bay, while others overlook the park or a quiet interior courtyard (4 Avenue des Phocéens, tel. 04 93 85 74 01, www.hotel-albert-1er.com, info@hotel-albert1er.com).
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Marché aux Fleurs**** is ideally situated near the sea and Cours Saleya. Rooms are sharp, standard doubles are tight, and prices can be either reasonable or exorbitant (superior rooms worth the extra euros—especially those with views, 91 Quai des Etats-Unis, tel. 04 93 85 74 19, www.hotelmercure.com, h0962@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Mer** is an intimate, 12-room place with an enviable position overlooking Place Masséna, just steps from Vieux Nice and the beach. Rooms are modern, comfortable, and well priced (4 Place Masséna, tel. 04 93 92 09 10, www.hoteldelamernice.com, hotel.mer@wanadoo.fr). They also run the $$$$ Suites Masséna in the same building, with seven huge, modern, high-ceilinged rooms—designed for two but with room for three (tel. 04 93 13 48 11, www.lessuitesmassena.com).
$$ Room With a Vue rents four well-designed rooms (several with small balconies) right on Cours Saleya above the Pain et Cie bakery/café (3 Louis Gassin, tel. 04 93 62 94 32, roomwithavue@gmail.com, enthusiastic manager Fred).
$$ Hôtel Lafayette,*** located a block behind the Galeries Lafayette department store, is a modest, homey place with 17 mostly spacious, well-designed and good-value rooms. All rooms are one floor up from the street—some traffic noise sneaks in (RS%, 32 Rue de l’Hôtel des Postes—see “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, tel. 04 93 85 17 84, www.hotellafayettenice.com, info@hotellafayettenice.com).
Hostel: ¢ Villa Saint Exupéry Beach is a sprawling place with more than 200 beds, split between a building with private rooms (figure $) and the hostel next door (dorms with 4-8 beds). The owners and many staff are English so communication is easy. The vibe is young and fun, with a bar, cheap restaurant, community kitchen, air-con, elevator, and beaucoup services including laundry, yoga classes, free walking tour of Vieux Nice, and scuba diving (no curfew, 6 Rue Sacha Guitry, tel. 04 93 16 13 45, www.villahostels.com, beach@villahostels.com).
Several airport hotels offer a handy and cheap port-in-the-storm for those with early flights or who are just stopping in for a single night: $$ Hôtel Campanile (www.campanile.fr) and $$$ Hôtel Nouvel (www.novotel.com) are closest; $$ Hôtel Ibis Budget Nice Aéroport (www.ibis.com) is cheap and a few minutes away, though two other Ibis hotels are closer and a bit pricier. Free shuttles connect these hotels with both airport terminals.
You’ll find plenty of regional dishes and lots of Italian influence blended with classic French cuisine in this Franco-Italian city. Just because you’re in a resort, don’t lower your standards. Locals expect to eat well and so should you. Sundays are tricky as many places are closed—check the hours before you get your heart set on a place and always be ready to book a day ahead. Think about booking in person while you take my “Vieux Nice Walk.”
My favorite dining spots are in Vieux Nice. It’s well worth booking ahead for these places. If Vieux Nice is too far, I’ve listed some great places handier to your hotel. Promenade des Anglais is ideal for picnic dinners on warm, languid evenings or a meal at a beachside restaurant. For a more romantic and peaceful meal, head for nearby Villefranche-sur-Mer (see next chapter). Avoid the fun-to-peruse but terribly touristy eateries lining Rue Masséna.
Nice’s dinner scene converges on Cours Saleya, which is entertaining enough in itself to make the generally mediocre food a fair deal. It’s a fun, festive spot to compare tans and mussels. Most of my recommendations are on side lanes inland from here. Even if you’re eating elsewhere, wander through here in the evening. For locations, see the “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.)
While local foodies would avoid Cours Saleya like a McDonalds, the energy of wall-to-wall restaurants taking over Vieux Nice’s market square each evening is enticing. $$$ Le Safari is a fair option for Niçois cuisine, pasta, pizza, and outdoor dining. This sprawling café-restaurant, convivial and rustic with the coolest interior on the Cours, is packed with locals and tourists, and staffed with hurried waiters (daily noon to late, 1 Cours Saleya, tel. 04 93 80 18 44, www.restaurantsafari.fr).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.)
$$ Acchiardo is a homey-but-lively eatery that mixes loyal clientele with hungry tourists. As soon as you sit down you know this is a treat. It’s a family affair overseen by Monsieur Acchiardo and his good-looking sons, Jean-François and Raphael. A small plaque under the menu outside says the restaurant has been run by father and son since 1927. The food is delicious and copious, and the house wine is good and reasonable (Mon-Fri 19:00 until late, closed Sat-Sun and Aug, often a line out the door, reservations smart, indoor seating only, 38 Rue Droite, tel. 04 93 85 51 16).
$ Chez Palmyre, your best budget bet in Vieux Nice, is tiny and popular, so book ahead (a week is advised). The ambience is rustic and fun, with people squeezed onto shared tables to enjoy the homestyle cooking. Philippe serves everyone the same three-course, €17 menu, which changes every two weeks (closed Sat-Sun, 5 Rue Droite, tel. 04 93 85 72 32).
$$$ Olive et Artichaut is a sharp bistro-diner with a small counter, black-meets-white floor tiles, and a foodie vibe. It’s a good choice to dine on carefully prepared Mediterranean dishes with creative twists (closed Mon-Tue, 6 Rue Ste. Réparate, tel. 04 89 14 97 51).
$$ Koko Green is a sweet little haven for vegan and raw-food types and is run by a delightful Franco-Kiwi couple (open Thu-Sun for lunch, Sat for lunch and dinner, 1 Rue de la Loge, tel. 07 81 63 14 88).
$$$ Cave du Fromager is run by young owners Maeva and Mattieu, who are crazy about cheese and wine. Come here to escape the heat and dine in cozy, cool, vaulted cellars surrounded by shelves of wine and cheery lights. You’ll be treated to delicious dishes featuring fresh fish, pasta, and ham—most with cheese as a key ingredient. This is a good choice for vegetarians, and for singles who enjoy eating at the small counter and watching the chef work. Book ahead (closed Tue, just off Place du Jésus at 29 Rue Benoît Bunico, tel. 04 93 13 07 83, www.lacavedufromager.com).
$$ Bistrot d’Antoine has street appeal inside and out. It’s a warm, vine-draped place whose menu emphasizes affordable Niçois cuisine and good grilled selections. It’s popular, so call a day or two ahead to reserve a table. The upstairs room is quieter than the outdoor tables and ground-floor room (closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue de la Préfecture, tel. 04 93 85 29 57).
$$ La Merenda is a shoebox where you’ll sit on small stools and dine on simple, homestyle dishes in a communal environment. The menu changes with the season, but the hardworking owner, Dominique, does not. This place fills fast, so arrive early, or better yet, drop by during lunch to reserve for dinner—seatings are at 19:00 and 21:00 (closed Sat-Sun, cash only, 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, no telephone).
$$ Oliviera venerates the French olive. This fun shop/restaurant offers olive oil tastings and a menu of Mediterranean dishes paired with specific oils (like a wine pairing). Adorable owner Nadim speaks excellent English, knows all of his producers, and provides animated “Olive Oil 101” explanations with your meal. It’s a good place for vegetarians—try his guacamole-and-apple dish; the pesto is also excellent (lunch only, closed Sun-Mon, cash only, 8 bis Rue du Collet, tel. 04 93 13 06 45).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.)
Gelato lovers should save room for the tempting ice-cream stands in Vieux Nice (open daily until late). Fenocchio is the city’s favorite, with mouthwatering displays of dozens of flavors ranging from lavender to avocado (two locations: 2 Place Rossetti and 6 Rue de la Poissonnerie). Gelato connoisseurs should head for Oui, Jelato, where quality is the priority rather than selection (5 Rue de la Préfecture, on the Place du Palais).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.)
An appealing lineup of bistros overflowing with outdoor tables stretches along the broad sidewalk on Rue Biscarra (just east of Avenue Jean Médecin behind Nice Etoile, all closed Sun). Come here to dine with area residents away from most tourists. Peruse the choices—all five places are different and reservations are normally not needed.
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map.)
$$ Le Luna Rossa is a small neighborhood place serving delicious French-Italian dishes. Owner Christine and her staff welcome diners with enthusiastic service and reasonable prices. Pasta dishes are copious and served in cast-iron pans, and the assortiment main course is a great sampler dish. Dine inside or outside on a sidewalk terrace (closed Sun-Mon, just north of parkway at 3 Rue Chauvain, tel. 04 93 85 55 66).
$ L’Ovale takes its name from the shape of a rugby ball. Come here for an unpretentious and local café-bistro experience. Owner David serves traditional dishes from southwestern France (rich and meaty). Dining is inside only. Consider the cassoulet, the hearty salade de manchons with duck and walnuts, or the €18-23 three-course menus (daily, 29 Rue Pastorelli, tel. 04 93 80 31 65).
$$$ Les 5 Sens (“The Five Senses”) is a lively and dressy restaurant serving classic French fare at higher-end prices that justify the cost for discerning diners (daily, 37 Rue Pastorelli, tel. 09 81 06 57 00).
$$ La Maison de Marie is a surprisingly high-quality refuge off Nice’s touristy restaurant row. The interior tables are candlelit, white-tablecloth classy, while the tables in the courtyard enjoy a relaxed bistro feel. Expect some smokers outside. The menu is a good value (daily, 5 Rue Masséna, tel. 04 93 82 15 93).
$$ Comptoir du Marché, named for its red, wood counter, feels like a wine shop-meets-bistro-meets-bakery with cozy ambience in and out. It’s at a busy pedestrian corner and serves traditional French cuisine with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, 8 Rue du Marché, tel. 04 93 13 45 01).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map.)
$ Voyageur Nissart has blended good-value cuisine with friendly service since 1908. Kind owner Max and his able assistant Cédric are great hosts, and the quality of their food makes this place both very popular and a good choice for travelers on a budget (book ahead, leave a message in English). Try anything à la niçoise, including the fine salade niçoise (good €18 three-course menus, inexpensive wines, indoor and outdoor seating, closed Mon, a block below the train station at 19 Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine, tel. 04 93 82 19 60, www.voyageurnissart.com).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map.)
These restaurants are handy for those sleeping in hotels near the Promenade des Anglais.
$$ L’Ecole de Nice brings wine-shop decor to a cozy-but-modern restaurant, and serves a limited selection of delicious dishes complemented by a vast selection of wines. The set-price menu—less than €30 for three courses—is a swinging deal (closed Sun, 16 Rue de la Buffa, tel. 04 93 81 39 30).
$$$ Le Canon is a fine-if-trendy choice, run by two friends intent on serving top-quality and inventive dishes that emphasize the region’s local, fresh, and in-season ingredients (closed Sat-Sun, 23 Rue Meyerbeer, tel. 04 93 79 09 24).
$$$ Coco & Rico is a good place away from the tourist fray. Kind Isabelle welcomes you to her fun bistro with creative homemade dishes. The cuisine and wine list represent many regions of France, with a focus on what’s fresh (closed Sun-Mon, indoor and outdoor seating, 3 Rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 83 50 09 60).
$$$ Mon Petit Café delivers fine, traditional cuisine to appreciative diners in a warm, candlelit setting with rich colors and fine glassware, or on a pleasant front terrace. Book ahead for this dressy place and expect top service and mouth-watering cuisine (closed Sun-Mon, 11 bis Rue Grimaldi, tel. 04 97 20 55 36, www.monpetitcafe-nice.com).
$ Crêperie Bretonne is the only crêperie I list in Nice. Dine on the broad terrace or inside, with relaxed service and jukebox-meets-gramophone ambience. Their top-end, house-special crêpes are creative and enticing. Split a salad to start—try the goat cheese salad with honey (closed Sun, on Place Grimaldi, tel. 04 93 82 28 47).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map.)
$$$ Restaurant Le Galet is your best eat-on-the-beach option. The city vanishes as you step down to the beach. The food is nicely presented, and the tables feel elegant, even at the edge of the sand. Arrive for the sunset and you’ll have an unforgettable meal (open for dinner May-mid-Sept, 3 Promenade des Anglais—see “Nice Restaurants” map, tel. 04 93 88 17 23). Sunbathers can rent beach chairs and have drinks and meals served literally on the beach (lounge chairs-€16/half-day, €19/day).
Nice is perfectly situated for exploring the Riviera by public transport. Monaco, Eze-le-Village, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes, Vence, and St-Paul-de-Vence are all within about a one-hour bus or train ride. With a little planning, you can link key destinations in an all-day circuit (for example: Nice, Monaco, and Eze-le-Village or La Turbie, then loop back to Nice). For a comparison of train and bus connections from Nice to nearby coastal towns, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here. It’s also possible to take a boat to several destinations in the Riviera.
From Nice-Ville Station to: Cannes (2/hour, 30 minutes), Antibes (2/hour, 20 minutes), Villefranche-sur-Mer (2/hour, 10 minutes), Eze-le-Village (2/hour, 15 minutes to Eze-Bord-de-Mer, then infrequent bus #83 to Eze, 8/day, 15 minutes), Monaco (2/hour, 20 minutes), Menton (2/hour, 35 minutes), Grasse (15/day, 1 hour).
Regardless of length, most one-way rides on regional buses (except express airport buses) cost €1.50. Tickets are good for up to 74 minutes of travel in one direction, including transfers. For more info on buses in the Riviera, see here. To connect to regional destinations, use the following bus lines and stops (see “Nice Hotels” and “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” maps for stop locations; www.lignesdazur.com).
Eastbound Buses: Due to the new T-2 tram that will end at the port, expect some changes to stop locations for these buses. Trams T-1 and/or T-2 will get you close to these stops, and transfers are free from tram to bus for all lines but #100.
Bus #100 runs from Nice’s port through Villefranche-sur-Mer (3-4/hour, 20 minutes), Monaco (1 hour), and Menton (1.5 hours). Bus #81 runs from the Promenade des Arts stop to Villefranche-sur-Mer (2-3/hour, 15 minutes) and around Cap Ferrat (30 minutes to St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat). Buses #82 and #112 to Eze-le-Village leave from the Vauban tram stop (about hourly; only #82 runs on Sundays; 30 minutes). For La Turbie, buses run 6/day and take 45 minutes (Mon-Sat take #116 from Vauban tram stop; on Sun catch #T-66 from Pont St. Michel tram stop).
Westbound Buses: Bus #200 goes to Antibes (4/hour Mon-Sat, 2/hour Sun, 1.5 hours) and Cannes (2 hours). Bus #400 heads to St-Paul-de-Vence (2/hour, 45 minutes) and Vence (1 hour). Bus #94 also serves Vence (1-2/hour, 1 hour). Bus #500 goes to Grasse (2/hour, 1 hour). All use the Albert I/Verdun stop on Avenue de Verdun, a 10-minute walk along the parkway west of Place Masséna. You must buy tickets before boarding these buses.
In summer, Trans Côte d’Azur offers scenic trips several days a week from Nice to Monaco and Nice to St-Tropez. Boats leave in the morning and return in the evening, giving you all day to explore your destination. Drinks and WCs are available on board.
Boats to Monaco depart at 9:30 and 16:00, and return at 11:00 and 17:00. The morning departure can be combined with the late-afternoon return from Monaco, allowing you a full day with Prince Albert II (€39 round-trip, €32 if you don’t get off in Monaco, 45 minutes each way, June-Sept Tue, Thu, and Sat only).
Boats to St-Tropez depart at 9:00 and return from St-Tropez at 16:30 (€65 round-trip, 2.5 hours each way; early-July-Aug daily; late May-early-July and Sept Tue, Thu, and Sat-Sun only).
Reservations are required for both boats, and tickets for St-Tropez should be booked in advance (tel. 04 92 00 42 30, www.trans-cote-azur.com). The same company also runs one-hour round-trip cruises along the coast to Cap Ferrat (see listing under “Tours in Nice,” earlier).
Ouibus and Flixbus run long-distance bus service from Nice; see “Transportation” in the Practicalities chapter. Compare schedules and fares with trains.
Most long-distance train connections from Nice to other French cities require a change in Marseille. The Intercité train to Bordeaux (serving Antibes, Cannes, Toulon, and Marseille—and connecting from there to Arles, Nîmes, and Carcassonne) requires a reservation.
From Nice by Train to: Marseille (18/day, 2.5 hours), Cassis (hourly, 3 hours, transfer in Toulon and/or Marseille), Arles (11/day, 4 hours, most require transfer in Marseille or Avignon), Avignon (10/day, most by TGV, 4 hours, many require transfer in Marseille), Lyon (hourly, 4.5 hours, may require change), Paris’ Gare de Lyon (hourly, 6 hours, may require change), Aix-en-Provence TGV Station (10/day, 2-3 hours, usually changes in Marseille), Chamonix (4/day, 10 hours, requires multiple changes), Beaune (7/day, 7 hours, 1-2 transfers), Florence (6/day, 8 hours, 1-3 transfers), Milan (3 Thello trains/day, 4 hours, www.thello.com; or 4/day, 5 hours, most with transfers), Venice (5/day, 9 hours, 1-3 transfers), Barcelona (2/day via Montpellier or Valence, 9 hours, more with multiple changes).
Nice’s easy-to-navigate airport (Aéroport de Nice Côte d’Azur, airport code: NCE) is literally on the Mediterranean—with landfill runways, a 30-minute drive west of the city center. The two terminals are connected by shuttle buses (navettes). Both terminals have TIs, banks, ATMs, trams, and buses to Nice (tel. 04 89 88 98 28, www.nice.aeroport.fr). Planes leave roughly hourly for Paris (one-hour flight, about the same price as a train ticket, check www.easyjet.com for the cheapest flights to Paris’ Orly airport).
By Taxi: A taxi into the center is expensive considering the short distance (figure €35 to Nice hotels, €60 to Villefranche-sur-Mer, €70 to Antibes, about €5 more at night and on weekends, small fee for bags). Nice’s airport taxis are notorious for overcharging. Before riding, confirm your fare. It’s always a good idea to ask for a receipt (reçu).
By Tram: The T-2 tramway, scheduled to open in late 2019, will serve both airport terminals and will run frequently into Nice, paralleling the Promenade des Anglais and ending at Nice’s Port Lympia. The tram will be handy for those sleeping at hotels near the Promenade des Anglais and Place Masséna.
By Bus: Two bus lines connect the airport with the city center, offering good alternatives to high-priced taxis. Note that these routes may be influenced by the new tram line; check routes before riding. Bus #99 (airport express) runs to Nice’s main train station (€6, 2/hour, 8:00-21:00, 30 minutes, drops you within a 10-minute walk of many recommended hotels). To take this bus to the airport, catch it right in front of the train station (departs on the half-hour). If your hotel is within walking distance of the station, #99 is your best budget bet.
Bus #98 runs along Promenade des Anglais and along the edge of Vieux Nice (€6, 3-4/hour, from the airport 6:00-23:00, to the airport until 21:00, 30 minutes, see the “Nice” map at the beginning of this chapter for stops).
For all buses, buy tickets from the driver. To reach the bus information office and stops at Terminal 1, turn left after passing customs and exit the doors at the far end. Buses serving Terminal 2 stop across the street from the airport exit (information kiosk and ticket sales to the right as you exit).
By Airport Shuttle: These services vary in reliability but can be cost-effective for families or small groups. Airport shuttles are better for trips from your hotel to the airport, since they require you to book a precise pickup time in advance. Shuttle vans offer a fixed price (about €30 for one person, a little more for additional people or to Villefranche-sur-Mer). Your hotel can arrange this, and I would trust their choice of company.
To get to Villefranche-sur-Mer from the airport, take bus #98 (described above) to Place Garibaldi. From there, use the same ticket to transfer to bus #81. If the new T-2 tram is running, take it to the last stop (Port Lympia). At the port, you can use the same ticket to transfer to bus #81 or buy a separate ticket for bus #100 (see the “Nice” map at the beginning of this chapter for bus-stop locations). Allow €60 for a taxi.
To reach Antibes, take bus #250 from either terminal (about 2/hour, 40 minutes, €11). For Cannes, take bus #210 from either terminal (1-2/hour, 50 minutes on freeway, €22). Express bus #110 runs from the airport directly to Monaco (2/hour, 50 minutes, €22).
Nice’s port is at the eastern edge of the town center, below Castle Hill; the main promenade and Vieux Nice are on the other side of the hill. Cruise ships dock at either side of the mouth of this port: Terminal 1 to the east or Terminal 2 to the west.
Getting into the City Center: The new T-2 tram will connect the port to the city center and airport. Until it opens, to reach Vieux Nice or the T-1 tram, head to Place Garibaldi by walking or riding the shuttle bus to the top of the port, then angling up Rue Cassini to the square (20-minute walk from either cruise terminal). From here it’s a short walk to Vieux Nice or to the T-1 tram stop. You can ride the T-1 tram to Place Masséna for the start of my “Vieux Nice Walk” or to catch a bus to the Chagall or Matisse museums (#15).
If arriving at Terminal 2 and heading to Vieux Nice, you can skip the walk to Place Garibaldi and stroll directly there by heading around the base of the castle-topped hill, with the sea on your left (10-15 minutes).
Other options to get into town include a taxi from the terminals (about €20 to points within Nice) or the hop-on, hop-off bus, which has a stop at the top of the port (see here).
Getting to Nearby Destinations: To visit Villefranche-sur-Mer or Monaco, it’s best to take bus #100 (the train is faster, but the bus stop is much closer to Nice’s port). The bus stops along the top of the port, near the right end of Place de l’Ile de Beauté (see “Nice” map at the beginning of this chapter).
To take the train to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Monaco, Antibes, Cannes, or elsewhere, hop on the T-1 tram (stop near Place Garibaldi, described earlier), then ride to the Gare Thiers stop and walk one long block to the main train station. After the T-2 tram opens, you can ride it to the Jean Médecin stop and transfer to the T-1 tram. For bus and train connections to nearby destinations, see here.
Taxis at the terminals charge about €40 one-way to Villefranche-sur-Mer, or €95 one-way to Monaco.