Villefranche-sur-Mer • The Three Corniches • Cap Ferrat • Eze-le-Village
Orientation to Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer Town Walk
Activities in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Sleeping in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Eating in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer Connections
Between Nice and Monaco lies the Riviera’s richest stretch of real estate, paved with famously scenic roads (called the Three Corniches) and dotted with cliff-hanging villages, million-dollar vistas, and sea-splashed walking trails connecting beach towns. Fifteen minutes east of Nice, little Villefranche-sur-Mer stares across the bay to woodsy and exclusive Cap Ferrat. The eagle’s-nest Eze-le-Village and the Corniche-topping Le Trophée des Alpes survey the scene from high above.
Ideally, spend one day in Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat, and a second day in Monaco and either Eze-le-Village or La Turbie (or both if you’re efficient).
If you only have one day, spend it in Villefranche-sur-Mer and Monaco: Those using Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer as a home base can take the bus and follow my self-guided bus tour to Monaco (see the end of this chapter), arriving in Monaco in time to tour the casino when it’s quieter, then witness the changing of the guard at 11:55. If you’re returning to Nice, take the train or bus back to Villefranche-sur-Mer and follow my self-guided walk (then consider having an early dinner there before returning to Nice). If you’re sleeping in Villefranche-sur-Mer, return from Monaco by bus via Eze-le-Village, spend the late afternoon there, then take a bus or taxi back to Villefranche.
Drivers can connect these destinations with some scenic driving along the Corniche roads.
In the glitzy world of the Riviera, Villefranche-sur-Mer offers travelers an easygoing slice of small-town Mediterranean life. From here, convenient day trips let you gamble in Monaco, saunter the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, indulge in seaside walks and glorious gardens in Cap Ferrat, and enjoy views from Eze-le-Village and the Grande Corniche.
Villefranche-sur-Mer feels more Italian than French, with pastel-orange buildings; steep, narrow lanes spilling into the sea; and pasta on menus. Luxury yachts glisten in the bay. Cruise ships make regular calls to Villefranche-sur-Mer’s deep harbor, creating periodic rush hours of frenetic shoppers and bucket-listers. Sand-pebble beaches, a handful of interesting sights, and quick access to Cap Ferrat keep other visitors just busy enough.
Originally a Roman port, Villefranche-sur-Mer was overtaken by fifth-century barbarians. Villagers fled into the hills, where they stayed and farmed their olives. In 1295 the Duke of Provence—like many in coastal Europe—needed to stand up to the Saracen Turks. He asked the olive farmers to move from the hills down to the water and establish a front line against the invaders, thus denying the enemy a base from which to attack Nice. In return for tax-free status, they stopped farming, took up fishing, and established a Ville- (town) franche (without taxes). Since there were many such towns, this one was specifically “Tax-free town on the sea” (sur Mer). In about 1560, the Duke of Savoy built an immense, sprawling citadel in the town. And today, while the town has an international following, two-thirds of its 8,000 people call it their primary residence. That makes Villefranche-sur-Mer feel more like a real community than neighboring Riviera towns.
The TI is just off the road that runs between Nice and Monaco, located in a park (Jardin François Binon) below the Nice/Monaco bus stop, labeled Octroi (daily 9:00-18:30; mid-Sept-mid-June Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-17:30, closed Sun; tel. 04 93 01 73 68, www.villefranche-sur-mer.com). Pick up regional bus schedules and information on seasonal sightseeing boat rides. The TI has an excellent brochure-map showing seaside walks around neighboring Cap Ferrat and information on the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild’s gardens.
By Bus: Get off at the Octroi stop. To reach the old town, walk past the TI along Avenue Général de Gaulle, take the first stairway on the left, then make a right at the street’s end. The hop-on, hop-off bus from Nice stops at the citadel (see here).
By Train: Not all trains stop in Villefranche-sur-Mer (you may need to transfer to a local train in Nice or Monaco). Villefranche-sur-Mer’s train station is just above the beach, a short stroll from the old town and most of my recommended hotels (taxis won’t take such a short trip).
By Car: From Nice’s port, follow signs for Menton, Monaco, and Basse Corniche. In Villefranche-sur-Mer, turn right at the TI (first signal after Hôtel la Flore) for parking and hotels. For a quick visit to the TI, park at the pay lot just below the TI. You’ll pay to park in all public parking areas except from 19:00 to 9:00. Parking around the citadel is reasonable (about €2/hour) but the most central lot at the harbor is pricey (Parking Wilson, €26/day). Parking is free near Port de la Darse. Some hotels have their own parking.
By Plane: Allow an hour to connect from Nice’s airport to Villefranche-sur-Mer (for details, see here).
By Cruise Ship: For arrival by cruise ship, see here.
Market Day: A fun bric-a-brac market enlivens Villefranche-sur-Mer on Sundays (on Place Amélie Pollonnais by Hôtel Welcome, and in Jardin François Binon by the TI). On Saturday and Wednesday mornings, a market sets up in Jardin François Binon. A small trinket market springs to action on Place Amélie Pollonnais whenever cruise ships grace the harbor.
Wi-Fi: There’s free Wi-Fi near the TI in the Jardin François Binon, at the port, and in cafés on Place Amélie Pollonnais.
Electric Bike Rental: The adventurous can try Eco-Loc electric bikes as an alternative to taking the bus to Cap Ferrat, Eze-le-Village, or even Nice. You get about 25 miles on a fully charged battery (after that you’re pedaling; €20/half-day, €30/day, mid-April-Sept daily 9:00-17:00, deposit and ID required, best to reserve 24 hours in advance; helmets, locks, and baskets available; pick up bike by the cruise terminal entrance at the port, mobile 06 66 92 72 41, www.ecoloc06.fr).
Spectator Sports: Lively boules action takes place each evening just below the TI and the huge soccer field (see here).
By Bus: Little minibus #80 saves you the sweat of walking uphill (and gets you within a 15-minute walk of Mont-Alban Fort, described later), but runs only about once per hour from the old port to the top of the hill, stopping at Place Amélie Pollonnais (by the cruise terminal), Hôtel la Fiancée du Pirate, and the Col de Villefranche stop (for buses to Eze-le-Village), before continuing to the outlying suburban Nice Riquier train station (€1.50, runs daily 7:00-19:00, see the “Villefranche-sur-Mer” map for stop locations, schedule posted at stops and available at TI). Also, consider the hop-on, hop-off bus that makes a loop trip from the citadel to Nice (see here).
By Taxi: Taxis wait between the cruise terminal and Place Amélie Pollonnais. Beware of taxi drivers who overcharge. Normal weekday, daytime rates to outside destinations should be about €25 to Cap Ferrat, €40 to central Nice or Eze-le-Village, and €70 to the airport or Monaco. For a reliable taxi, call Didier (mobile 06 15 15 39 15). General taxi tel. 04 93 55 55 55.
(See “Villefranche-sur-Mer” map.)
For tourists, Villefranche is a tiny, easy-to-cover town that snuggles around its harbor under its citadel. This quick self-guided walk laces together everything of importance, starting at the waterfront near where cruise-ship tenders land and finishing at the citadel.
• If arriving by bus or train, you’ll walk five minutes to the starting point. Go to the end of the short pier directly in front of Hôtel Welcome, where we’ll start with a spin tour (spin to the right) to get oriented.
The Harbor: Look out to sea. Cap Ferrat, across the bay, is a landscaped paradise where the 1 percent of the 1 percent compete for the best view. The Rothschild’s pink mansion, Villa Ephrussi (about dead center, hugging the top) is the most worthwhile sight to visit in the area. To its right, in the saddle of the hill, the next big home, with the red-tiled roof, belongs to Paul Allen. Geologically, Cap Ferrat is the southern tip of the Alps. The range emerges from the sea here and arcs all across Europe, over 700 miles, to Vienna.
Today, ships bring tourists rather than pirates. The bay is generally filled with beautiful yachts. (In the evenings, you might see well-coiffed captains being ferried in by dutiful mates to pick up statuesque call girls.) Local guides keep a list of the world’s 100 biggest yachts and talk about some of them as if they’re part of the neighborhood.
At 2,000 feet, this is the deepest natural harbor on the Riviera and was the region’s most important port until Nice built its own in the 18th century. Greek, Roman, and American naval ships appreciated the setting. In fact, the United States Sixth Fleet called Villefranche-sur-Mer’s port home for almost 20 years. The biggest cruise ships drop their hooks here rather than in Nice or Monaco. The tiny jetty is the landing point for the cruise-ship tenders that come ashore each morning in season.
Up on the hill, the 16th-century citadel (where this walk ends) is marked by flags. The yellow fisherman’s chapel (with the little-toe bell tower) has an interior painted by Jean Cocteau. Hôtel Welcome offers the balconies of dreams. Up the skinny lane just right of the hotel stands the baroque facade of St. Michael’s Church. The waterfront, lined by fancy fish restaurants, curves to the town beach. Fifty yards above the beach stands the train station and above that, supported by arches, is the Low Corniche road, which leads to Monaco. Until that road was built in the 1860s, those hills were free of any development all the way to Monaco. The big yellow building just above can be rented for €300,000 a month (as Madonna did once for a birthday).
• Leave the pier and walk left 30 yards past the last couple of fishing boats surviving from the town’s once-prominent fishing community to find a small bronze bust of Jean Cocteau, the artist who said, “When I look at Villefranche, I see my youth.” A few more steps take you to the little chapel he painted.
Chapel of St. Pierre (Chapelle Cocteau): This chapel is the town’s cultural highlight. Cocteau, who decorated the place, was a Parisian transplant who adored little Villefranche-sur-Mer and whose career was distinguished by his work as an artist, poet, novelist, playwright, and filmmaker. Influenced by his pals Marcel Proust, André Gide, Edith Piaf, and Pablo Picasso, Cocteau was a leader among 20th-century avant-garde intellectuals. At the door, Marie-France—who is passionate about Cocteau’s art—collects a €3 donation for a fishermen’s charity. She then sets you free to enjoy the chapel’s small but intriguing interior. She’s delighted to give you a small tour if you ask (Wed-Sun 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, usually closed Mon-Tue, hours vary with cruise-ship traffic and season).
In 1955 Cocteau tattooed the barrel-vaulted chapel with heavy black lines and pastels. Each of Cocteau’s Surrealist works—the Roma (Gypsies) of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer who dance and sing to honor the Virgin, girls wearing traditional outfits, and three scenes from the life of St. Peter—is explained in English. Is that Villefranche-sur-Mer’s citadel in the scene above the altar?
• From the chapel, turn right and stroll the harbor promenade 100 yards past romantic harborside tables. Restaurant La Mère Germaine is named for Mother Germaine, who famously took care of US Navy troops in World War II (step inside to see sketches and old photos on the wall). Immediately after the restaurant, a lane leads up into the old town. Walk up a few steps until you reach a long tunnel-like street.
Rue Obscure, the Old Town, and St. Michael’s Church: Here, under these 13th-century vaults, you’re in another age. Turn right and walk to the end of Rue Obscure (which means “dark street”). At the end, wind up to the sunlight past a tiny fountain at Place du Conseil, and a few steps beyond that to a viewpoint overlooking the harbor.
Turn around and stroll back past the fountain, straight down the lane, and gently downhill. Notice the homes built under the heavy arches. At Place des Deux Garçons (the square with a namesake restaurant), turn right on Rue May and climb the stepped lane. Take your first left at the restaurant to find St. Michael’s Church, facing a delightful square with a single magnolia tree (Place de l’Eglise). The deceptively large church features an 18th-century organ, a particularly engaging crucifix at the high altar, and (to the left) a fine statue of a recumbent Christ—carved, they say, from a fig tree by a galley slave in the 1600s.
• Leaving St. Michael’s, go downhill halfway to the water, where you hit the main commercial street. Go right on Rue du Poilu (browsing a real-estate window if you’d like to move here), then curve left, pass the square, and walk up to the...
Citadel: The town’s mammoth castle was built in the 1500s by the Duke of Savoy to defend against the French. When the region joined France in 1860, the castle became just a barracks. Since the 20th century, it’s housed the police station, City Hall, a summer outdoor theater, and art galleries. The single fortified entry—originally a drawbridge over a dry moat (a.k.a. kill zone)—still leads into this huge complex.
The exterior walls slope thickly at the base, indicating that they were built in the “Age of Black Powder”—the 16th century—when the advent of gunpowder made thicker, cannonball-deflecting walls a necessity for any effective fortification. The bastions are designed for smarter crossfire during an attack. The inside feels vast and empty. If you wander around, you’ll find a memorial garden for victims of World War II, five free and empty museums and galleries, a garden in the bastion, and the City Hall (which offers a free WC, as all City Halls in France are required to by law).
• And that concludes our introductory walk. For a brilliant seaside stroll (described next), drop back down below the citadel to the harbor parking lot (Parking Wilson) and find the stone path that leads to the right.
A seaside walkway originally used by customs agents to patrol the harbor leads under the citadel and connects the old town with the workaday harbor (Port de la Darse). At the port you’ll find a few cafés, France’s Institute of Oceanography (an outpost for the University of Paris oceanographic studies), and an 18th-century dry dock. This scenic walk turns downright romantic after dark. You can also wander the other direction along Villefranche-sur-Mer’s waterfront and continue beyond the train station for postcard-perfect views back to Villefranche-sur-Mer (ideal in the morning—go before breakfast). You can even extend your walk to Cap Ferrat (see “Getting to Cap Ferrat,” later).
This fort, with a remarkable setting on the high ridge that separates Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer, is a good destination for hikers (also accessible by car and bus; info at TI). From the TI, walk on the main road toward Nice about 500 yards past Hôtel La Flore. Look for wooden trail signs labeled Escalier de Verre and climb about 45 minutes as the trail makes long switchbacks through the woods up to the ridge. Find your way to Mont-Alban Fort (interior closed to tourists) and its sensational view terrace over Villefranche-sur Mer and Cap Ferrat. To visit with a much shorter hike, minibus #80 drops you a 15-minute walk away (by the recommended Hôtel Fiancée du Pirate). Bus #14 from Nice drops you just five minutes away (catch it at the Masséna/Guitry stop by Galeries Lafayette department store).
To view this beautiful coastline from the sea, consider taking a quick sightseeing cruise with AMV (€12-22, some stay in the bay, others go as far as Monaco, select days June-Sept, departs across from Hôtel Welcome, tel. 04 93 76 65 65, www.amv-sirenes.com). You can also rent your own motorboat through Dark Pelican (€110/half-day, €175/day, deposit required, on the harbor at the Gare Maritime, tel. 04 93 01 76 54, www.darkpelican.com).
You have a handful of great hotels in all price ranges to choose from in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The ones I list have sea views from at least half of their rooms—well worth paying extra for.
$$$$ Hôtel Welcome**** has the best location in Villefranche-sur-Mer, and charges for it. Anchored seaside in the old town, with all of its 35 plush, balconied rooms overlooking the harbor and a lounge/wine bar that opens to the water, this place lowers my pulse and empties my wallet (pricey garage—must reserve, 3 Quai Amiral Courbet, tel. 04 93 76 27 62, www.welcomehotel.com, resa@welcomehotel.com).
$$ Hôtel La Flore*** is a fine value—particularly if your idea of sightseeing is to enjoy a panoramic view from your spacious bedroom balcony (even street-facing rooms have nice decks). The hotel is warmly run and good for families. Several rooms in the annex sleep four and come with kitchenettes, views, and private hot tubs. It’s a 15-minute uphill hike from the old town, but the parking is free, and the bus stops for Nice and Monaco are close by (on main road at 5 Boulevard Princesse Grace de Monaco, tel. 04 93 76 30 30, www.hotel-la-flore.fr, infos@hotel-la-flore.fr).
$$ Hôtel la Fiancée du Pirate*** is a family-friendly view refuge high above Villefranche-sur-Mer on the Middle Corniche (best for drivers, although it is on bus lines #80, #82, and #112 to Eze-le-Village and Nice). Don’t be fooled by the modest facade—Eric and Laurence offer 15 lovely and comfortable rooms, a large pool, a hot tub, a nice garden, and a terrific view lounge area. The big breakfast features homemade crêpes (RS%, laundry service, free parking, 8 Boulevard de la Corne d’Or, Moyenne Corniche/N-7, tel. 04 93 76 67 40, www.fianceedupirate.com, info@fianceedupirate.com).
$ Hôtel de la Darse** is a shy little hotel burrowed in the shadow of its highbrow neighbors and the only budget option in Villefranche. It’s a great value with handsome rooms, but isn’t central—figure 10 scenic minutes of level walking to the harbor and a steep 15-minute walk up to the main road (hourly minibus #80 stops in front; handy for drivers, free parking usually available close by). Seaview rooms are easily worth the extra euros (no elevator, tel. 04 93 01 72 54, www.hoteldeladarse.com, info@hoteldeladarse.com). From the TI, walk or drive down Avenue Général de Gaulle (walkers should turn left on Allée du Colonel Duval into the Jardins de Narvik and follow steps to the bottom).
(See “Villefranche-sur-Mer” map.)
Locals don’t come here in search of refined cuisine and nor should you. For me, dining in Villefranche-sur-Mer is about comfort food, attitude, and ambience. Comparison-shopping is half the fun—make an event out of a predinner stroll through the old city. Saunter past the string of pricey candlelit places lining the waterfront and consider the smaller, less expensive eateries embedded in the old town. For dessert, pop into a gelateria, and then enjoy a floodlit, postdinner walk along the sea.
$$$ La Grignotière, hiding in the back lanes, features Mediterranean comfort food. Servings are generous and tasty. Consider the giant helping of spaghetti and gambas (prawns) or the chef’s personal-recipe bouillabaisse, all served by gregarious Brigitte and gentle Chantal (cozy seating inside, a few tables outside, daily, 3 Rue du Poilu, tel. 04 93 76 79 83).
$$ La Belle Etoile is the romantic’s choice, with a charming interior filled with white tablecloths and soft lighting. This intimate place, serving fine Mediterranean cuisine, is a few blocks above the harbor on a small lane (closed Tue-Wed, 1 Rue Baron de Bres, tel. 04 97 08 09 41).
$$$ Les Deux Garçons offers candlelit tables on a quiet square and a refined cuisine that attracts locals in search of a special dinner (closed Wed, 18 Rue du Poilu, tel. 04 93 76 62 40).
$ Le Serre, nestled in the old town near St. Michael’s Church, is a simple, cozy place that opens at 18:00 for early diners. Hardworking owner Sylvie serves well-priced dinners to a loyal local clientele and greets all clients with equal enthusiasm. Choose from the many thin crust pizzas (named after US states), salads, and meats. Try the daube niçoise meat stew or the great-value, three-course menu (open evenings only, cheap house wine, 16 Rue de May, tel. 04 93 76 79 91).
$$$$ La Mère Germaine, right on the harbor, is the only place in town classy enough to lure a yachter ashore. It’s dressy, with formal service and high prices. The name commemorates the current owner’s grandmother, who fed hungry GIs during World War II. Try the bouillabaisse, served with panache (daily, reserve for harborfront table, 9 Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, tel. 04 93 01 71 39, www.meregermaine.com).
$ La Trinquette is a relaxed, low-key place away from the fray on the “other port,” next to the recommended Hôtel de la Darse (a lovely 10-minute walk from the other recommended restaurants). Gentle Jean-Charles runs the place with charm, delivering reliable cuisine, friendly vibes at good prices, and a cool live-music scene on weekends (daily in summer, closed Wed off-season, 30 Avenue Général de Gaulle, tel. 04 93 16 92 48).
$$ Le Cosmo serves brasserie fare on the town’s appealing main square (daily, Place Amélie Pollonnais, tel. 04 93 01 84 05).
Grocery Store: A handy Casino is a few blocks above Hôtel Welcome at 12 Rue du Poilu (Thu-Tue 8:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:30 except closed Sun afternoon and all day Wed).
Dinner Options for Drivers: If you have a car and are staying a few nights, take a short drive to Eze-le-Village or La Turbie for a late stroll, an early dinner, or a sunset drink (dining suggestions later in this chapter). If it’s summer (June-Sept), the best option of all is to go across to a restaurant on one of Cap Ferrat’s beaches, such as $$$ Restaurant de la Plage de Passable, for a before-dinner drink or a dinner you won’t soon forget (see “Sights on Cap Ferrat,” later).
For a comparison of connections by train and bus, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here. If you’re going to Nice’s airport, take a cab or an airport shuttle van (see “Nice Connections,” on here).
Trains are faster and run later than buses (until 24:00). It’s a level, 10-minute walk from the port to the train station.
From Villefranche-sur-Mer by Train to: Monaco (2/hour, 10 minutes), Nice (2/hour, 10 minutes), Antibes (2/hour, 40 minutes), Eze-Bord-de-Mer (2/hour, 5 minutes) then transfer to bus #83 for Eze-le-Village (see “Getting to Eze-le-Village,” later).
In Villefranche-sur-Mer, the most convenient bus stop is Octroi, just above the TI.
Bus #81 runs from Villefranche-sur-Mer in one direction to Nice (15 minutes) and in the other direction through Beaulieu-sur-Mer (5 minutes) to Cap Ferrat, ending at the port in the village of St-Jean (15 minutes; for other transportation options, see “Getting to Cap Ferrat,” later). The last bus departs from Nice around 20:15, and from St-Jean around 20:50.
Bus #100 runs along the coastal road from Villefranche-sur-Mer westbound to Nice (3-4/hour, 20 minutes) and eastbound to Beaulieu-sur-Mer (10 minutes), Monaco (40 minutes), and Menton (1.25 hours). The last bus from Nice to Villefranche leaves at about 21:00 and from Villefranche to Nice at about 22:00.
To reach Eze-le-Village by bus you have two choices: Walk or take bus #80 to upper Villefranche-sur-Mer, then catch bus #82 or #112, which together provide about hourly service to Eze-le-Village (only #82 runs on Sun). You can also take bus #100 or #81 to the Plage Beaulieu stop in nearby Beaulieu-sur-Mer, then catch bus #83 to Eze-le-Village, 8/day).
For more on these buses, including ticket info, routes, and frequencies, see here.
Tenders deposit passengers at a slick terminal building (Gare Maritime) at the Port de la Santé, right in front of Villefranche-sur-Mer’s old town.
Getting into Town: It’s easy to walk to various points in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The town’s charming, restaurant-lined square is a straight walk ahead from the terminal, the main road (with the TI and bus stop) is a steep hike above, and the train station is a short stroll along the beach. Minibus #80, which departs from in front of the cruise terminal, saves you some hiking up to the main road and bus stop (described earlier).
Getting to Nearby Towns: To connect to other towns, choose between the bus or train. Leaving the terminal, you’ll see directional sights pointing left, to Town center/bus (a 10- to 15-minute, steeply uphill walk to the Octroi bus stop with connections west to Nice or east to Monaco); and right, to Gare SNCF/train station (a 10-minute, level stroll with some stairs at the end). See train and bus connections earlier.
Taxis wait in front of the cruise terminal and charge exorbitant rates (minimum €15 charge to train station, though most will refuse such a short ride). For farther-flung trips, see the price estimates on here. For an all-day trip, you can try negotiating a flat fee (e.g., €300 for a 4-hour tour).
Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco are linked by three coastal routes: the Low, Middle, and High Corniches. The roads are nicknamed after the decorative frieze that runs along the top of a building (cornice). Each Corniche (kor-neesh) offers sensational views and a different perspective. The villages and sights in this section are listed from west to east in the order you’ll reach them when traveling from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Monaco.
The corniches are peppered with impressive villas such as La Leopolda, a sprawling estate with a particularly grand entry that’s named for its 1930s owner, King Leopold II of Belgium (who owned the entire peninsula of Cap Ferrat in addition to this estate). Those driving up to the Middle Corniche from Villefranche-sur-Mer can look down on this yellow mansion and its lush garden, which fill an entire hilltop. The property was later owned by the Agnelli family (of Fiat fame and fortune), and then by the Safra family (Brazilian bankers). Its current value is more than a half-billion dollars.
For an overview of these three roads, see the “Between Nice & Monaco” map.
Low Corniche: The Basse Corniche (also called “Corniche Inférieure”) strings ports, beaches, and seaside villages together for a traffic-filled ground-floor view. It was built in the 1860s (along with the train line) to bring people to the casino in Monte Carlo. When this Low Corniche was finished, many hill-town villagers descended to the shore and started the communities that now line the sea. Before 1860, the population of the coast between Villefranche-sur-Mer and Monte Carlo was zero. Think about that as you make the congested trip today.
Middle Corniche: The Moyenne Corniche is higher, quieter, and far more impressive. It runs through Eze-le-Village and provides breathtaking views over the Mediterranean, with several scenic pullouts.
High Corniche: Napoleon’s crowning road-construction achievement, the Grande Corniche caps the cliffs with staggering views from almost 1,600 feet above the sea. Two thousand years ago, this was called the Via Aurelia, used by the Romans to conquer the West.
Drivers can find the three routes from Nice by driving up Boulevard Jean Jaurès, past Vieux Nice and the port. For the Low Corniche (to Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat), follow signs to N-98 (Monaco par la Basse Corniche), which leads past Nice’s port. Signs for N-7 and the Middle Corniche (Moyenne Corniche) appear shortly after the turnoff to the Low Corniche. Signs for the High (Grande) Corniche appear a bit after that; follow D-2564 to Col des 4 Chemins and the Grande Corniche.
The Best Route from Nice to Monaco: This breathtaking drive, worth ▲▲▲, takes the Middle Corniche from Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer to Eze-le-Village, then uphill following signs to the Grande Corniche and La Turbie. For cloud piercing, 360-degree views, take Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc uphill from Eze-le-Village’s western edge and follow signs for Parc de la Grande Corniche. The road becomes the winding Route de la Revère, which has viewpoints galore with views north to the Alps, straight down to the village, and along the Riviera from Naples to Barcelona (well, almost). Bring a picnic, as benches and tables are plentiful. Continue east from here along the Grande Corniche to La Turbie, keeping an eye out for brilliant views back over Eze-le-Village, then finish by dropping down into Monaco.
Buses travel along each Corniche; the higher the route, the less frequent the buses (see the “Between Nice & Monaco” map). Bus #100 runs along the Low Corniche from Nice to Monaco (3-4/hour). Bus #112 provides the single best route to enjoy this area as it connects Monaco and Nice via Eze-le-Village along the Middle Corniche (6/day, none on Sun). Bus #T-66 connects Nice with La Turbie along the High Corniche (3-6/day), and bus #11 does the same from Monaco (6/day). There are no buses between Eze-le-Village and La Turbie (45-minute walk), though buses do connect Nice and Monaco with La Turbie.
If traveling by bus, follow my self-guided bus tour to Monaco (at the end of this chapter), then consider returning to Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer by bus via Eze-le-Village, or to Nice via La Turbie (see “Monaco Connections” on here).
This exclusive peninsula, rated ▲▲, decorates Villefranche-sur-Mer’s views. Cap Ferrat is a peaceful eddy off the busy Nice-Monaco route (Low Corniche). You could spend a leisurely day on this peninsula, wandering the sleepy port village of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (usually called “St-Jean”), touring the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild mansion and gardens, and walking on sections of the beautiful trails that follow the coast. If you owned a house here, some of the richest people on the planet would be your neighbors.
Tourist Information: The main TI is near the harbor in St-Jean (Mon-Sat 9:30-18:30, Sun 10:00-17:30; Oct-April Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun; 5 Avenue Denis Séméria, bus #81 stops here at the office du tourisme). A smaller TI is near the Villa Ephrussi (closed Sat off-season, closed Sun year-round, 59 Avenue Denis Séméria, tel. 04 93 76 08 90, office-tourisme@saintjeancapferrat.fr).
Here’s how I’d spend a day on the Cap: From Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer, take bus #81 to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild stop (called Passable), then visit the villa. Walk 30 minutes, mostly downhill, to St-Jean for lunch (many options, including grocery shops for picnic supplies) and poke around the village. Take the 45-minute walk on the Plage de la Paloma trail (ideal for picnics). After lunch, take bus #81 or walk the beautiful 30-minute trail to the Villa Kérylos in Beaulieu-sur-Mer and maybe tour that villa. Return to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Nice, or points beyond by train or bus. (If you have a car, skip the loop drive around the peninsula; there’s nothing to see from the road except the walls in front of homes owned by people whose challenge in life is keeping the public out.)
You can add Eze-le-Village to this day by taking bus #81 or walking the seaside trail from St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to Beaulieu-sur-Mer (Plage Beaulieu stop), and transferring to bus #83 to Eze-le-Village (skip Villa Kérylos). Bus #83 only runs eight times day so check the schedule (www.lignedazur.com). If doing this, consider reversing it and starting in Eze-le-Village when it’s quieter.
Here’s an alternative plan for the star-gazing, nature-loving beach bum: Visit Villa Ephrussi then walk to St-Jean for lunch, hike six miles around the entirety of Cap Ferrat (2-3 hours), and enjoy the late afternoon on the beach at Plage de Passable. At sunset, have a drink or dinner at the recommended Restaurant de la Plage de Passable, then walk or catch a taxi back.
Warning: In high season, late-afternoon buses back to Villefranche-sur-Mer or Nice along the Low Corniche can be jammed (worse on weekends), potentially leaving passengers stranded at stops for long periods. To avoid this, either take the train or board bus #81 on the Cap itself (before it gets crowded).
From Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer: Bus #81 (direction: Port de St-Jean) runs to all Cap Ferrat stops (for info on tickets, route, and frequency, see here). For the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, get off at the Passable stop (allow 30 minutes from Nice and 10 minutes from Villefranche-sur-Mer’s Octroi stop). Find schedules posted at stops, or get one from a TI. The times listed for Direction Le Port/Cap Ferrat are when buses depart from Nice—allow 15 minutes after that for Villefranche-sur-Mer. The return bus (direction: Nice) begins in St-Jean.
Cap Ferrat is quick by car (take the Low Corniche) or taxi (allow €30 one-way from Villefranche-sur-Mer, €65 from Nice). You’ll pay for metered parking in summer, but it’s free from mid-October through April.
You can also walk an hour from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Cap Ferrat: Go past the train station along the small beach lane, then climb the steps at the far end of the beach and walk parallel to the tracks on Avenue Louise Bordes. Continue straight past the mansions, and take the first right on Avenue de Grasseuil. You’ll see signs to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, then to Cap Ferrat’s port.
In what seems like the ultimate in Riviera extravagance, Venice, Versailles, and the Côte d’Azur come together in the pastel-pink Villa Ephrussi. Rising above Cap Ferrat, this 1905 mansion has views west to Villefranche-sur-Mer and east to Beaulieu-sur-Mer. From this perch you’ll look down on other oligarchs, but not on Microsoft cofounder Paul Allen. As you enter the grounds, look back and see the villa’s neighbor—Paul Allen’s mansion—on an equally prominent high point surrounded by a private forest.
Cost and Hours: Palace and gardens-€14, includes audioguide; mid-Feb-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00; Nov-mid-Feb Mon-Fri 14:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00; tel. 04 93 01 33 09, www.villa-ephrussi.com. Kids enjoy the free treasure-hunt booklet.
Getting There: With luck, drivers can find a free spot to park along the entry road just inside the gate. The nearest bus stop is Passable, just a few minutes after the bus turns onto Cap Ferrat (bus #81, 5-minute walk uphill to the villa). If returning to Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer by bus, check the posted schedule, and keep in mind that you’re only a minute from the time-point listed for Port de St-Jean.
Visiting the Villa: Buy your ticket at the side of the building with the gift shop and get the small map of the gardens, then walk to the main entrance and pick up an audioguide. Start with the well-furnished belle-époque ground floor (well described by the audioguide). Upstairs, an 18-minute film (with English subtitles) explains the gardens and villa and gives you good background on the life of rich and eccentric Béatrice, Baroness de Rothschild, the French banking heiress who built and furnished the place.
As you stroll through the upstairs rooms, you’ll pass royal furnishings and personal possessions, including the baroness’s porcelain collection and her bathroom case for cruises. Her bedroom, sensibly, has views to the sea on both the port and starboard sides, and toward the bow, stretching like the prow of a vast cruise ship, is her garden. Don’t miss the view from her private terrace.
The gorgeous gardens are why most come here. (The audioguide does not cover the gardens.) The ship-shaped gardens were inspired by Béatrice’s many ocean-liner trips. She even dressed her small army of gardeners like sailors. Behind the mansion, stroll through the seven lush gardens re-created from locations all over the world—and with maximum sea views. Don’t miss the Jardin Exotique’s wild cactus, the rose garden at the far end, and the view back to the house from the “Temple of Love” gazebo. Cross the stepping-stone bridge by the playful fountains, if you dare.
An appropriately classy $$ garden-tearoom serves drinks and lunches with a view (12:00-17:30).
Walks from the Villa Ephrussi: It’s a lovely 30-minute stroll, mostly downhill and east, from the Villa Ephrussi to the Villa Kérylos in Beaulieu-sur-Mer (described later) or to the port of St-Jean. To get to either, make a U-turn left at the stop sign below the Villa Ephrussi and follow signs along a small road toward the Hôtel Royal Riviera on Avenue Henri Honoré Sauvan (see “Cap Ferrat” map). Walk about 5 minutes down; when the road comes to a T, keep straight, passing a gate down a pedestrian path, which ends at the seafront trail (on Place David Niven)—go left to reach the Villa Kérylos, or head right to get to St-Jean. It’s about 15 minutes to either destination once you join this path.
To get to Plage de Passable from the Villa Ephrussi, turn left on the main road just below the villa; after 50 yards you’ll find signs leading down to the beach.
This pebbly little beach, located below the Villa Ephrussi, comes with great views of Villefranche-sur-Mer. It’s a peaceful place, popular with families. One half is public (free, with snack bar, shower, and WC), and the other is run by a small restaurant (€30 includes changing locker, lounge chair, and shower; they have 260 “beds,” but still reserve ahead in summer or on weekends as this is a prime spot, tel. 04 93 76 06 17). If you were ever to do the French Riviera rent-a-beach ritual, this would be the place.
To park near the beach (curbside or in a nearby lot), figure about €12/day in metered spots (free mid-Oct-April). Bus #81 stops a 10-minute walk uphill from the beach, near Villa Ephrussi.
For me, the best reason to come here is for dinner. Arrive before sunset, then watch as darkness descends and lights flicker over Villefranche-sur-Mer’s heavenly setting. $$$ Restaurant de la Plage de Passable is your chance to dine on the beach with romance and class (with good-enough food) while enjoying terrific views and the sounds of children still at play (daily late May-early Sept, always make a reservation, tel. 04 93 76 06 17).
This half-private, half-public beach is a 10-minute walk from St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (described below). For €26 you get a lounge chair and the freedom to relax on the elegant side. Or enjoy the pebbly free beach (with shower and WC).
$$$ Plage de la Paloma Restaurant is inviting for dining on the beach, with salads for lunch and elegant dinners (daily from 12:00 and from 20:00, closed late Sept-Easter, tel. 04 93 01 64 71, www.paloma-beach.com).
This quiet harbor town lies in Cap Ferrat’s center, yet is off most tourist itineraries and feels overlooked. St-Jean houses yachts, boardwalks, views, and boutiques packaged in a “take your time, darling” atmosphere. It’s a few miles off the busy Nice-to-Monaco road—convenient for drivers. A string of restaurants lines the port, with just enough visitors and locals to keep them in business. St-Jean is especially peaceful at night. Sit on a whale-tail bench, enjoy the giant clamshell flowerboxes, and work on your Cyrillic (as many signs come in Russian to cater to the needs of the town’s wealthiest guests).
There’s a small TI in the village center (described earlier). The stop for the bus back to Villefranche-sur-Mer is a half-block above the TI, and the taxi stand is next to the bus stop (tel. 04 93 76 86 00). The hiking trail to Beaulieu-sur-Mer (with access to the Villa Ephrussi and Villefranche-sur-Mer for hard-core walkers) begins past the beach, to the left of the port as you look out to the water (details follow). If it’s lunchtime, you’ll find plenty of good options.
Eating in St-Jean: For picnics, the short pedestrian street in St-Jean has all you need (grocery store, bakery, charcuterie, and pizza to go), and you’ll have no trouble finding portside or seaside seating. There’s a big Casino grocery on the port below the main drag. Plage de la Paloma, described earlier, is a 10-minute walk away. Easygoing cafés and pizza joints with views over the port are easy to find.
$$$ Restaurant La Cabane de l’Ecailler, right on the harbor, with fancy yachts for a view, is elegant and expensive but offers a reasonable two-course lunch on weekdays (Nouveau Port de Plaisance, tel. 04 93 87 39 31).
$$ Capitaine Cook is a sweet little mom-and-pop place that takes its fish seriously yet seems to turn its back on the harbor (no views). There’s a small patio out back and a cozy interior (good three-course menu, tasty soupe de poisons and bouillabaisse, closed Wed, a block uphill from the port toward Plage de la Paloma at 11 Avenue Jean Mermoz, tel. 04 93 76 02 66).
The Cap is perfect for a walk; you’ll find well-maintained and well-marked foot trails covering most of its length. You have three easy, mostly level options of varying lengths. The TIs in Villefranche-sur-Mer and St-Jean have maps of Cap Ferrat with walking paths marked, or you can use the following itineraries with this book’s map.
A level walk takes you past sumptuous villas, great views, and fun swimming opportunities. From St-Jean’s port, walk along the harbor and past the beach with the water on your right. Head up the steps to Promenade Maurice Rouvier and continue; before long you’ll see smashing views of the whitewashed Villa Kérylos.
To get from Beaulieu-sur-Mer to St-Jean or the Villa Ephrussi, start at the Villa Kérylos (with the sea on your left), walk toward the Hôtel Royal Riviera, and find the trail. If going to St-Jean, stay left at the Villa Sonja Rello (about halfway down); if going to the Villa Ephrussi, after about 20 minutes look for signs leading uphill at Place David Niven (walk up the path to Avenue Henri Honoré Sauvan, then keep going). If you’re walking from St-Jean to the Villa Ephrussi, turn left off the trail at Place David Niven.
A few blocks east of St-Jean’s port, a scenic trail offers an easy sampling of Cap Ferrat’s beauty. From the port, walk or drive about a quarter-mile east (with the port on your left, passing Hôtel La Voile d’Or); parking is available at the port or on streets near Plage de la Paloma. You’ll find the trailhead where the road comes to a T—look for a Plage Paloma sign pointing left, but don’t walk left. Cross the small gravel park (Jardin de la Paix) to start the trail, and do the walk counterclockwise. The trail is level and paved, yet uneven enough that good shoes are helpful. Plunk your picnic on one of the benches along the trail, or eat at the restaurant on Plage de la Paloma at the end of the walk (described earlier).
For a longer hike that circles the cape, follow the signs below the Villa Ephrussi marked Plage Passable (10 minutes downhill on foot from the villa, parking available nearby). Walk down to the beach (you’ll pass the recommended Restaurant de la Plage de Passable—ideal for lunch), turn left, and cross the beach. Go along a paved road behind the apartment building, and after about 60 yards, take the steps down to the trail (Sentier Littoral). Walk as far as you want and double back, or do the whole enchilada—it’s about six miles (10 kilometers) around the cape. Near the end of the trail, you’ll pass through the port of St-Jean, where you can take bus #81 back to the Plage de Passable/Villa Ephrussi stop, or ride to Villefranche-sur-Mer or to Nice.
In St-Jean: While St-Jean is the main town serving the notoriously wealthy community of Cap Ferrat, it does have some affordable hotels.
$$$ Hôtel Brise Marine,*** graced with gardens and a seaview terrace, is a peaceful retreat. Warmly run by Monsieur Maître-Henri, this aged mansion—with Old World character—feels lost in time. Most of its 16 comfortable rooms come with simple furnishings but fine views, and some have balconies—worth requesting (secure pay parking with reservation, between the port and Plage de la Paloma at 58 Avenue Jean Mermoz, tel. 04 93 76 04 36, www.hotel-brisemarine.com, info@hotel-brisemarine.com).
$ Hôtel Oursin** is central in the village, with 13 well-priced rooms all on one floor. Run by quirky mother-and-son team Chantal and Aubrey, it’s a humble place with white walls that feels more like a B&B than a hotel, though it does have air-con (1 Avenue Denis Séméria, tel. 04 93 76 04 65, www.hoteloursin.com, reception@hoteloursin.com).
Between St-Jean and Villefranche-sur-Mer: Sitting across from Villefranche, at the start of Cap Ferrat, $ Hôtel Patricia* is a 20-minute walk to Villefranche or the Villa Ephrussi, and 10 minutes to Beaulieu-sur-Mer. Helpful owners Joelle and Franck provide 11 simple and homey rooms with eclectic decor (no elevator, air-con in some rooms, pay parking, near bus #100’s l’Ange Gardien stop at 310 Avenue de l’Ange Gardien, tel. 04 93 01 06 70, www.hotel-patricia.riviera.fr, hotel.lavillapatricia@gmail.com).
The village of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, right on the Low Corniche road (just after Cap Ferrat), is busy with traffic and tourists. It’s a good place to pick up the hiking trail to Cap Ferrat sights and to visit the unusual Villa Kérylos. In 1902, an eccentric millionaire modeled his mansion after a Greek villa from the island of Delos from about 200 BC. No expense was spared in re-creating this Greek fantasy, from the floor mosaics to Carrara marble columns to exquisite wood furnishings modeled on discoveries made in Pompeii. The rain-powered shower is fun (but from a later time), and the included audioguide will increase your Greek IQ. The mosaic workshop—open only high season and weekend afternoons—offers a chance to test your talents.
Cost and Hours: €12, €14 combo-ticket with Le Trophée des Alpes, includes audioguide; daily 10:00-19:00, Oct-May until 17:00; tel. 04 93 01 47 29, www.villakerylos.fr.
Getting There: Drivers should park near the casino in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, not on the villa’s access road. Buses #81 and #100 drop you at the Villa Kérylos stop at the villa’s access road (for details on these buses, see here). Trains (2/hour, 10 minutes from Nice or Monaco) leave you a 10-minute walk away: Turn left out of the train station and left again down the main drag, then follow signs. The walking trail from Villa Kérylos to Cap Ferrat and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild begins on the other side of the bay, beneath Hôtel Royal Riviera.
Capping a peak high above the sea, flowery and flawless Eze-le-Village (pronounced “ehz”; don’t confuse it with the seafront town of Eze-Bord-de-Mer) is entirely consumed by tourism. This village d’art et de gastronomie (as it calls itself) is home to perfume outlets, stylish boutiques, steep cobbled lanes, and magnificent views. Touristy as it Eze, its stony state of preservation and magnificent hilltop setting over the Mediterranean affords a fine memory. Day-tripping by bus to Eze-le-Village from Nice, Monaco, or Villefranche-sur-Mer works well. While Eze-le-Village can be tranquil early and late, during the day it is mobbed by cruise-ship and tour-bus groups. Come early or late in the day.
There are two Ezes: Eze-le-Village (the spectacular hill town on the Middle Corniche) and Eze-Bord-de-Mer (a modern beach resort far below the “village” of Eze). Parking in Eze-le-Village will be a headache in 2019 as construction is underway for a new underground garage.
From Nice and upper Villefranche-sur-Mer, buses #82 and #112 together provide about hourly service to Eze-le-Village (only #82 runs on Sun, 30 minutes from Nice).
From Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, or Monaco, you can also take the train or the Nice-Monaco bus (#100) to Eze-Bord-de-Mer, getting off at the Gare d’Eze stop. From there, take the infrequent #83 shuttle bus straight up to Eze-le-Village (8/day, daily about 9:00-18:00, schedule posted at stop, 15 minutes). Those coming from Villefranche-sur-Mer can also take buses #81 or #100 and transfer to bus #83 at the Plage Beaulieu stop in Beaulieu-sur-Mer.
To connect Eze-le-Village directly with Monte Carlo in Monaco, take bus #112 (6/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes).
There are no buses between La Turbie (Le Trophée d’Auguste) and Eze-le-Village (45-minute walk along the road’s shoulder).
A taxi between the two Ezes or from Eze-le-Village to La Turbie will run you about €30; allow €65 to Nice’s port (mobile 06 09 84 17 84 or 06 18 44 47 93).
Tourist Information: The helpful TI is adjacent to Eze-le-Village’s main parking lot, just below the town’s entry. Ask here for bus schedules. Call at least a week in advance to arrange a €12, one-hour English-language tour of the village that includes its gardens (TI open daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, Nov-March until 16:00 and closed Sun, Place de Gaulle, tel. 04 93 41 26 00, www.eze-tourisme.com).
Helpful Hints: The stop for buses to Nice is across the road by the Avia gas station, and the stops for buses to Eze-Bord-de-Mer and Monaco are on the village side of the main road, near the Casino grocery. Public WCs are just behind the TI and in the village behind the church.
This self-guided walk gives you a quick orientation to the village.
• From the TI, hike uphill into the town. You’ll come to an exclusive hotel gate and the start of a steep trail down to the beach, marked Eze/Mer. For a panoramic view and an ideal picnic perch, side-trip 90 steps down this path (for details, see “Hike to Eze-Bord-de-Mer,” later). Continuing up into the village, find the steps immediately after the ritzy hotel gate and climb to...
Place du Centenaire: In this square, a stone plaque in the flower bed (behind the candy stand) celebrates the 100th anniversary of the 1860 plebiscite, the time when all 133 Eze residents voted to leave the Italian Duchy of Savoy and join France. A town map here helps you get oriented.
• Now pass through the once-formidable town gate and climb into the 14th-century village.
As you walk, stop to read the information plaques (in English) and contemplate the change this village has witnessed in the last 90 years. Eze-le-Village was off any traveler’s radar until well after World War II (running water was made available only in the 1930s), yet today hotel rooms outnumber local residents two to one (66 to 33).
• Wandering the narrow lanes, consider a detour to Château de la Chèvre d’Or for its elegant bar-lounge and sprawling view terrace (high prices but high views). Continue on following signs to the...
Château Eza: This was the winter getaway of the Swedish royal family from 1923 until 1953; today it’s a 15-room hotel. The château’s tearoom (Salon de Thé), on a cliff overlooking the jagged Riviera and sea, offers another scenic coffee or beer break—for a price. The view terrace is also home to an expensive-but-excellent $$$$ restaurant (open daily, tel. 04 93 41 12 24).
• Backtrack a bit and continue uphill (follow signs to Jardin Exotique). The lane ends at the hilltop castle ruins—now blanketed by the...
Jardin d’Eze: You’ll find this prickly festival of cactus and exotic plants suspended between the sea and sky at the top of Eze-le-Village. Since 1949, the ruins of an old château have been home to 400 different plants 1,400 feet above the sea (€6, usually daily 9:00-19:00, Oct-May until about 16:00, well described in English, tel. 04 93 41 10 30). At the top, you’ll be treated to a commanding 360-degree view, with a helpful table d’orientation. On a clear day (they say...) you can see Corsica. The castle was demolished by Louis XIV in 1706. Louis destroyed castles like this all over Europe (most notably along the Rhine), because he didn’t want to risk having to do battle with their owners at some future date.
• As you descend, follow the pastel bell tower and drop by the...
Eze Church: Though built during Napoleonic times, this church has an uncharacteristic Baroque fanciness—a reminder that 300 years of Savoy rule left the townsfolk with an Italian savoir faire and a sensibility for decor. Notice the pulpit with the arm holding a crucifix, reminding the faithful that Christ died for their sins.
This factory, with its huge tour-bus parking lot, lies on the Middle Corniche, 100 yards below Eze-le-Village. Designed for tour groups, it cranks them through all day long. If you’ve never seen mass tourism in action, this place will open your eyes. (The gravel is littered with the color-coded stickers each tourist wears so that salespeople know which guide gets the kickback.) Drop in for an informative and free tour (2/hour, 15 minutes). You’ll see how the perfume and scented soaps are made before being herded into the gift shop.
Cost and Hours: Daily 8:30-18:30; best Mon-Fri 9:00-11:00 & 14:00-15:30, when people are actually working in the “factory,” tel. 04 93 41 05 05.
Nearby: For a more intimate (but unguided) look at perfume, cross the main road in Eze-le-Village to visit the Gallimard shop. Explore the small museum (no English) and let the lovely ladies show you their scents (daily 9:00-18:00, across from Eze parking lot). They can give you a short tour if you ask.
A steep trail leaves Eze-le-Village from the foot of the hill-town entry, near the fancy hotel gate (100 yards up from the main road), and descends 1,300 feet to the sea along a no-shade, all-view trail. The trail is easy to follow but uneven in a few sections—allow 45 minutes (good walking shoes are essential; expect to be on all fours in certain sections). Once in Eze-Bord-de-Mer, you can catch a bus or train to all destinations between Nice and Monaco. While walking this trail in the late 1800s, Friedrich Nietzsche was moved to write his unconventionally spiritual novel, Thus Spoke Zarathustra.
There’s a handy Casino grocery at the foot of the village by the bus stop (daily 8:00-19:30) and an excellent bakery across the main road from that. Take your feast to the sensational picnic spot at the beginning of the trail to Eze-Bord-de-Mer or see my driving directions under “The Corniche Roads” (described earlier) to get to an eagle’s-nest picnic site. $ Le Cactus serves crêpes, salads, and sandwiches at outdoor tables near the entry to the old town and inside their cozy, vaulted dining room (daily until about 19:30, tel. 04 93 41 19 02). For a real splurge, dine at $$$$ Château de la Chèvre d’Or (described earlier, on my “Eze-le-Village Walk”).
High above Monaco, on the Grande Corniche in the overlooked village of La Turbie, lies the ancient Roman “Trophy of the Alps,” one of this region’s most evocative historical sights (with dramatic views over the entire country of Monaco as a bonus). Rising well above all other buildings, this massive monument, worth ▲, commemorates Augustus Caesar’s conquest of the Alps and its 44 hostile tribes. It’s exciting to think that, in a way, Le Trophée des Alpes (also called “Le Trophée d’Auguste” for the emperor who built it) celebrates a victory that kicked off the Pax Romana—joining Gaul and Germania, freeing up the main artery of the Roman Empire, and linking Spain and Italy.
By Car: Take the High Corniche to La Turbie, ideally from Eze-le-Village (La Turbie is 10 minutes east of, and above, Eze-le-Village), then look for signs to Le Trophée d’Auguste. Once in La Turbie, drive to the site by turning right in front of the La Régence café. Those coming from farther afield can take the efficient A-8 to the La Turbie exit. To reach Eze-le-Village from La Turbie, follow signs to Nice, and then look for signs to Eze-le-Village.
By Bus: From Nice, you can get here Monday through Saturday on buses #116 or #T-66 (6/day each from the Vauban tram stop); on Sunday take bus #T-66 (from the Pont St. Michel tram stop). From Monaco, bus #11 connects to La Turbie (8/day Mon-Sat, 5/day Sun, 30 minutes). La Turbie’s bus stop is near the post office (La Poste) on Place Neuve.
On Foot: Eze-le-Village is a 45-minute roadside walk downhill from La Turbie (no buses). There’s a bike lane for half of the trip, but the rest is along a fairly quiet road with no shoulder. Follow D-2564 from La Turbie to Eze-le-Village, and don’t miss the turnoff for D-45. The views of Eze-le-Village are magnificent as you get close.
Cost and Hours: €6, €14 combo-ticket with Villa Kérylos, Tue-Sun 9:30-13:00 & 14:30-18:30, off-season 10:00-13:30 & 14:30-17:00, closed Mon year-round.
Tours and Information: The €3 audioguide may be overkill, as English explanations are posted throughout the site. Tel. 04 93 41 20 84, www.la-turbie.monuments-nationaux.fr.
You’ll enter through a small park that delivers grand views over Monaco and allows you to appreciate the remarkable setting selected by the Romans for this monument. Circumnavigate the hulking structure. Notice how the Romans built a fine stone exterior using 24 massive columns that held together a towering cylinder filled with rubble and coarse concrete. Find the huge inscription on the back side of the monument. Flanked by the vanquished in chains, the towering inscription (one of the longest such inscriptions surviving from ancient times) tells the story: It was erected “by the senate and the people to honor the emperor.”
The structure served no military purpose when built except to intimidate local tribes. The monument was fortified a thousand years later in the Middle Ages (like the Roman Arena in Arles) as a safe haven for villagers. When Louis XIV ordered the destruction of the area’s fortresses in the early 18th century, he sadly included this one. The monument later became a quarry for homes in La Turbie before being restored in the 1930s and 1940s with money from the Tuck family of New Hampshire.
A guardian will escort you halfway up the monument and give you a detailed explanation in English if you ask.
The good little one-room museum shows a model of the monument, a video, and information about its history and reconstruction. There’s also a translation of the dramatic inscription, which lists all the feisty alpine tribes that put up such a fight.
The sweet old village of La Turbie sees almost no tourists, but it has plenty of cafés and restaurants. To stroll the old village, walk behind the post office and find brick footpaths that lead through the peaceful back lanes of the village.
Eating in La Turbie: Your best bet is the welcoming $$ Restaurant La Terrasse, with tables under umbrellas and big views (daily for lunch and dinner, near the post office at the main parking lot, 17 Place Neuve, tel. 04 93 41 21 84). Charming owners Jacques and Helen speak flawless English.
The Riviera from Nice to Monaco is so easy to tour by bus and train that those with a car should consider leaving it at their hotel. While the train laces together the charms of this dramatic stretch of Mediterranean coast as if on a scenic bracelet, the public bus affords a far better view of the crags, dreamy villas, and much-loved beaches that make it Europe’s coast with the most.
This tour is designed for those riding the bus from Nice to Monaco and back. You could also ride the entire route to Menton (1.5 hours), enjoy Menton (see the end of the next chapter), and then see Monaco on the way back to Nice. Get an early start. Keep in mind that afternoon buses back to Nice are often crammed and agonizingly slow after Villefranche-sur-Mer—at these times, take the train.
Bus Tips: Bus #100 runs frequently along the Low Corniche (3-4/hour). The first stop in Nice is at the city’s port—see map on here). One €1.50 ticket is good for 74 minutes, no matter how far you go (one-way only). Pay the driver as you get on.
Riding from Nice toward Monaco, grab a seat on the right and start before 9:00. Stops are announced on most buses and shown on a screen at the front. The last bus leaves Monaco for Nice at about 21:30 (always verify last times).
Since bus fares are cheap, consider hopping on and off at great viewpoints (the next bus is always 15-20 minutes away). All stops have names that are usually posted on the shelter or bus stop sign—I’ll use the bus stop names to orient you as we go.
Some bus drivers on this line are in training for the Grand Prix of Monaco—hold on tight.
This route along the Low Corniche was inaugurated with the opening of the Monte Carlo Casino in 1863. It was designed to provide easy and safe access from Nice (and the rest of France) to the gambling fun in Monaco. Here’s what you’ll see along the way:
Nice Harbor: This harbor—dredged by 400 convicts—was finished in the mid-1800s. Before then, boats littered Nice’s beaches. You’ll see some yachts, an occasional cruise ship, and maybe the ferry to Corsica. The one-hour boat tour along Cap Ferrat and Villefranche-sur-Mer leaves from the right side, about halfway down (see here). If you return by bus #100, it’s a pleasant 30-minute walk around the distant point to or from the Promenade des Anglais and Nice’s old town.
From Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer: As you glide away from Nice, look back for views of the harbor, Castle Hill, and the sweeping Bay of Angels. Imagine the views from the homes below, and imagine 007 on his deck admiring a sunset (the soft, yellow, rounded tower straight ahead near the top of the hill was part of Sean Connery’s property). Elton John’s home is higher up the hill (and out of view). Imagine his neighbor, Tina Turner, dropping by for a glass of wine.
You’ll soon pass the Palais Maerterlinck, one of several luxury hotels to go belly-up in recent years and be converted to luxury condos. Next, you’ll come to the yacht-studded bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer and the peninsula called Cap Ferrat—retreat of the rich and famous, marked by its lighthouse on the point just across the bay. This bay is a rare natural harbor along the Riviera. Since it’s deeper than Nice’s, it hosts huge cruise ships, which drop anchor and tender passengers in.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: To see Villefranche-sur-Mer, get off at the stop labeled Octroi.
After passing through Villefranche-sur-Mer, look for sensational views back over the town (best from the Madonne-Noire stop). Spot the small point of land on the water with umbrella pine trees as the road arcs to the right—the Rolling Stones recorded 1972’s Exile on Main Street in the basement of the Villa Nellcôte, the mansion below the l’Ange Gardien stop. The Baroness Rothschild’s pink Villa Ephrussi, with its red-tiled roof, breaks the horizon on Cap Ferrat’s peninsula.
Cap Ferrat: This peninsula is home to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, the port town of St-Jean, and some lovely seaside paths. To visit Cap Ferrat, get off at l’Ange Gardien stop. As you leave Cap Ferrat, remember that this road was built in the 1860s to bring customers to Monaco. Before then, there was nothing along this route—no one even lived here—all the way to Monaco.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer: To take the seaside walk to St-Jean on Cap Ferrat get off at Plage Beaulieu. To visit the Villa Kérylos get off at the next stop for Kérylos.
Just after the town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, the cliffs create a microclimate and a zone nicknamed “Little Africa.” (The bus stop is labeled Petite Afrique.) Exotic vegetation (including the only bananas on the Riviera) grows among private, elegant villas that made Beaulieu-sur-Mer the place to be in the 19th century.
Eze-Bord-de-Mer: Soon after leaving Beaulieu-sur-Mer, be ready for quickie views way up to the fortified town of Eze-le-Village. After passing through a rock arch, you’ll swing around a big bend going left: Eze-le-Village crowns the ridge toward the right. To reach Eze-le-Village by bus, the #83 shuttle bus makes the climb from the Gare d’Eze stop in Eze-Bord-de-Mer—see here. U2’s Bono owns a villa on the beach below.
Cap d’Ail: After passing through several short tunnels, you emerge at Cap d’Ail. Near the Deux Tunnels stop, you can’t miss the huge, yellowish, hospital-like building below that once thrived as a luxury hotel popular with the Russian aristocracy. Now it’s luxury condos. At the next stop (Cap d’Ail-Edmonds), try to look left and above at the switchbacks halfway up the barren hillside (visible from the left side of the bus). It was at the bend connecting these two switchbacks that Princess Grace Kelly (the American movie star who married into the royal family of Monaco) was killed in a car crash in 1982.
Monaco (three bus stops): Cap d’Ail borders Monaco—you’re about to leave France. You’ll pass by some junky development along this no-man’s-land stretch. Eventually, to the right, just before the castle-topped hill (Monaco-Ville), is Monaco’s Fontvieille district, featuring tall, modern apartments all built on land reclaimed from the Mediterranean. The first Monaco stop (Place d’Armes) is best for visiting the palace and other old-town sights in Monaco-Ville.
If you stay on the bus, you’ll pass through the tunnel, then emerge to follow the road that Grand Prix racers speed along. In late May you’ll see blue bleachers and barriers set up for the big race.
You’ll pass the second Monaco stop (on the port, named Princesse Antoinette), then enjoy the harbor and city views as you climb to the last Monaco stop (Casino), near the TI. Get off here for the casino. For information on Monaco, see the next chapter. If you stay on the bus for a few more minutes, you’ll be back in France, and in 15 more minutes you’ll reach the end of the line, Menton (described in the following chapter).
Bonne route!