t Interior of the Arecibo Observatory’s museum
g Puerto Rico g Contents
t Interior of the Arecibo Observatory’s museum
The world’s second largest single-dish radio telescope is a bowl suspended between towering mogotes in the Gaurionex Mountains (it was nudged out of first place in 2016 by a telescope in China that has a reflector the size of 30 soccer pitches).
The observatory opened in 1963 under the Department of Defense to study the upper atmosphere and outer space using radio frequency transmission. Officially known as the National Astronomy and Ionosphere Center, and operated by the National Science Foundation, it is the headquarters of the Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence. The observatory’s Angel Ramos Foundation Visitor Center has excellent, though dated, informational exhibits.
James Bond fans may also recognize Arecibo as the setting for a dramatic fight scene in the 1995 movie, Goldeneye.
t Breathtaking views from the observation deck at the Arecibo Observatory
Named for the golden sands stretching along the palm-shaded shore, Dorado provides a gateway to the beaches for San Juan families, and deluxe hotels command the best beachside turf. It became a fashionable spot in the 1950s, with the former Dorado Beach Hotel (now a Ritz-Carlton Reserve) attracting celebrities such as the Kennedys. The best public beaches include Cerro Gordo and Playa Sardinera. The town has a main square, Plaza de Recreo, and local history exhibits can be seen at Museo La Casa del Rey, built as a parador in 1823, and later used as a Spanish garrison.
West of Dorado, Guajataca Forest Reserve protects a vast tropical forest. Nearby is the Lago Guajataca, which has picnic and fishing facilities.
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⌂ Calle Méndez Vigo 292 § 787 796 1030 # 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri
EXPERIENCE Puerto Rico
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Stay Horned Dorset Primavera A colonial-style beach resort offering huge suites and fine dining. ⌂ Rincón ∑ horneddorset.com \\\ Copamarina Beach Resort A family-friendly, palm-shaded resort set amid tropical gardens. ⌂ Guánica ∑ copamarina.com \\\ Mélia Century Hotel Ponce This recently renovated historic gem is utterly charming. ⌂ Calle Cristina 75, Ponce # meliacenturyhotel.com \\\ |
Puerto Rico’s largest cave system is also the world’s third largest, with over 220 caverns, though only 16 can be visited on guided tours. These begin with a steep downhill trolley ride to the Cueva Clara de Enpalma, followed by a snaking, hour-long walk through the cool cavern, which soars 170 ft (52 m) high. Key dripstone formations are spotlit. Bats flit overhead and a blind endemic fish species swims in the black underground river. Next up is a ride in the trolley to Tres Pueblos Sinkhole, plunging 400 ft (122 m). The caves closed following damage by Hurricane Maria, but are undergoing restoration and should reopen by 2020.
Surfers ride the Atlantic breakers that wash ashore at this long beach which shines like silver lamé. The sands here have been whipped into dunes by the winds. Beach bars, restaurants, and hotels line twin beaches separated by a craggy headland of ironshore (limestone-coral formation). El Pozo de Jacinto (Jacinto’s Well), on the western side of the beach, is a small natural blowhole that attracts many visitors.
Punta Borinquen, southwest of Playa Jobos, has some spectacular beaches, including Playa Crash Boat, which offers great diving just offshore, and is popular with surfers. The point previously served as a U.S. Air Force base, and visitors can enjoy a round on the old Base Ramey golf course.
Columbus first set foot on the island near the town of Aguadilla, where the Caribbean’s largest aquatic theme park, Parque Acuático Las Cascadas, is now located.
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⌂ 2 Puerto Rico, Aguadilla § 787 819 1030 # Mar–Sep: 9am–5pm daily
Surrounded by lush montane forests, Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana provides an excellent overview of ancient Taíno culture. The archaeological site – which was excavated in 1915 – was once used for both ceremonial and recreational purposes. It features 10 ceremonial bateyes (ball courts) surrounded by monolithic granite slabs that are etched with petroglyphs of human figures. The most notable among these is the Mujer de Caguana, a fertility figure showing a woman in childbirth. A small museum at the site displays ancient artifacts, and a gift shop sells zemis (worshiped figures).
t An ancient petroglyph at the Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana
The deadliest category 5 hurricane in two decades, Hurricane Maria swept through the Caribbean in September 2017. Its eye passed directly over Dominica, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico (still recovering from Hurricane Irma two weeks previously), where it killed 2,975 people. Thousands went months without electricity, running water, or telecommunications. In April 2019, a $13 billion disaster relief bill was stalled in U.S. Congress due to the opposition by President Trump.
t The colorful town hall in Plaza Colón, Mayagüez’s tree-lined main square
Named for the river upon which it sits, Mayagüez is translated as “Land of the Clear Waters.” Though the town was founded in 1760, little sign of its early past remains following a series of devastating fires. Nonetheless, its spacious main square – Plaza Colón – is adorned with fine buildings, most notably the Neo-Classical Town Hall and behind it, the Teatro Yagüez. The latter, declared a National Historic Landmark in 1976, remains a major hub of performing arts, culture, and education in the town. Also of interest are the square’s 16 bronze statues, and that of Christopher Columbus. Locals gather here to play dominoes beneath jacaranda trees.
Home to seven colleges and universities, and with a student population of over 13,000, Mayagüez offers a lively nightlife scene and plenty of good eateries to choose from. The town is also a popular departure point for sportfishing.
Locals flock to this slightly rough-around-the edges beach town, which has a lovely strand hidden behind old clapboard houses and a string of restaurants and bars. A special treat is to buy freshly caught oysters from street stands. Bosque Estatal de Boquerón, the area’s state forest, is a dry tropical and mangrove forest which offers tremendous birding. The beaches that line its shore are also popular, with snorkelers hoping to glimpse some of the local marine life. The nearby Refugio de Aves de Boquerón is similarly good for birding, and also has blinds for close-up viewing of various waterfowl and manatees.
South of town lies the Cabo Rojo Peninsula, where a semi-derelict lighthouse pins a dramatic headland that is named for its red-hued rocks. Nearby, simple accommodations at Playa El Combate cater for island families who gather to sunbathe and party on this narrow beach.
An hour’s drive east of Boquerón, the south coast community of La Parguera is one of Puerto Rico’s liveliest coastal resorts. The mangrove-fringed bay is unfortunately spoiled by the buzz of jet skis and excessive construction, but its a good place to organize a boat trip to Isla Magueyes and Phosphorescent Bay.
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⌂ Carretera 301 Km 5.1 § 787 851 4795 # 8am–4pm Tue–Sun
Puerto Rico was one of Spain’s last two colonies in the New World (the other being Cuba).
Considered the premier surfing spot in Puerto Rico, this beach resort midway down the west side of the island combines rugged beauty with a laid-back social scene and a lively nightlife. A network of roads link several beaches and rustic communities, including Rincón, spread across the pointy Punta Higuero peninsula. Tide-pooling here is fun, while snorkeling is great (in the protection of the scattered reefs), and open waters offer superb diving. Winds whip up waves that can reach as high as 40 ft (12 m), drawing surfing aficionados in search of the ultimate ride. Sunsets in Rincón are a blaze of sensational color, and humpback whales are often sighted from shore as they migrate through the Mona Passage during winter.
Rincón faces the Mona Passage, studded by Isla Mona, a rocky, uninhabited outcrop populated by birds, iguanas, and marine turtles. This wildlife refuge requires a permit from Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales to visit. Moca, inland of Rincón, produces mundillo (lace) and hosts the Mundillo Festival each June. Festivities include lace-weaving demos, along with traditional music, and plenty of food and drink.
This quaint hillside town was founded in 1512 – the second settlement established by the Spanish in Puerto Rico – and is home to the most intact colonial core outside San Juan Viejo. Colorful reminders of the wealth generated by the 19th-century coffee boom adorn its leafy plazas: 249 buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Iglesia Porta Coeli, which dates from 1606 and is the second-oldest church in Puerto Rico, exhibits religious statuary and santos in the Museo de Arte Religioso. The church stands over the Plaza Santo Domingo, which is noteworthy for the 19th-century gingerbread Casa Morales. A short walk west leads to the Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones, graced by the Neo-Classical Iglesia de San Germán de Auxerre, which was rebuilt in 1737 after an earthquake.
EXPERIENCE Puerto Rico
One of the coolest and most magical experiences of a Puerto Rico visit is the spectral glow of a bioluminescent lagoon on moonless nights. Puerto Rico has three such other-worldly lagoons, which are lit by microscopic dinoflagellates – single-celled organisms that emit a pulsing electric-blue light when disturbed by passing fish, turtles, or humans. Most impressive is Bioluminescent Bay (also known as Mosquito Bay) on Vieques, where visitors can take a kayak trip, slipping into the water to spark their own halo. The others are Laguna Grande, in Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve near Fajardo, and La Parguera Bay, in the southwest.
Deep in the mountains north of Ponce, this beautiful plantation can be traced to 1833. Although a primary producer of coffee, it also grew rice and maize. Original mill machinery shows how the maize was milled and the still-working water-turbine can be seen alongside other memorabilia, the elegant great house, warehouses, and slave quarters. It is managed by the Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico, which has resurrected the farm as a working coffee estate.
t The eye-catching striped facade of the Parque de Bombas in Ponce
Founded in 1692, Ponce still remains an important port city and abounds in cultural institutions that reflect its historical preeminence as a center for artists and political thinkers. Architecturally distinct from San Juan, its downtown area reminds many visitors of New Orleans, notably so during its renowned Carnival, when dancers parade through the streets in extravagant vejigante (horned) masks. The city was a major slave-trading port during the early colonial days and African heritage is firmly rooted in local culture.
The city witnessed a steady decline in the 20th century. Fortunately, the “Ponce en marcha” restoration project was initiated in the mid-1980s, and most of the city’s notable historic buildings are once again gleaming.
At the heart of Ponce, the spacious Plaza Las Delicias goes by various other names, including Plaza Central. It actually comprises two squares: Plaza Luis Muñoz Rivera and Plaza Federico Degetau, to the north and south, respectively, of the Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Guadalupe and the famous black-and-red-striped Parque de Bombas. This whimsical fire station has an antique fire truck and vintage cars on display. The twin squares have several statues, and the Lion’s Fountain, which looks splendid when floodlit at night. The buildings around the square are a medley of architectural styles spanning three centuries and ranging from Spanish colonial to Neo-Classical and Art Deco. The most commanding building is the Neo-Classical Teatro La Perla, which has served as a performing arts center since 1941. The surrounding streets are graced by pretty homes fronted by wrought-iron grills. Adjoining the theater, the Museo de la Historia de Ponce is the nation’s foremost history museum. One block east, Casa Serrallés is an exemplar of Art Nouveau styling. Today it houses the Museo de la Música Puertorriqueña, which traces the evolution of music on the island.
Toward the north, the city is flanked by Loma Vigía (Watchman’s Hill), which is dominated by La Cruceta de Vigía, a huge cement cross. At its base, Castillo Serrallés, a Spanish Revival mansion built in 1926 for the rum magnate Don Juan Serrallés, is furnished with a few splendid colonial pieces and also serves as a Museum of Sugar & Rum. The gardens in its complex are exquisite. The Museo de Arte de Ponce, a Modernist structure designed by Edward Durell Stone, has works by artists such as Gainsborough, Diego Rivera, and Delacroix, as well as some avant-garde Puerto Rican artists.
⌂ Plaza Las Delicias § 787 284 3338 # 9am–6pm Wed–Mon
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⌂ Calle Isabel 53 § 787 844 7071 # 9am–4pm Tue–Sun
⌂ Calle Isabel 45 § 787 848 7016 # 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun
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⌂ Cruzeta El Vigía 17 # 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun ∑ museocastilloserralles.com
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⌂ Av Las Américas 2325 # 9am–5pm Thu–Sun ¢ Pub hols ∑ museoarteponce.org
Insider Tip
Every winter, humpback whales migrate to the Mona Passage to mate and calve in the tropical waters. Rincón lighthouse is a great spot to view them from shore, or get closer with Taino Divers (tainodivers.com).
Protecting a rare stand of seasonally deciduous subtropical dry forest, this United Nations Biosphere Reserve spans the small town of Guánica. It covers 9,900 acres (4,000 ha) of gnarly dwarf tree species – including campeche, gumbo limbo, and ancient guayacán, among others – festooned with mistletoe, bromeliads, and Spanish moss. Additional ecosystems include pockets of semi-desert that are studded with cactuses, agaves, and yuccas, as well as mangroves, coral reefs, and rocky shoreline with white-sand beaches where green and leatherback turtles nest.
The larger eastern section is the easiest part to explore. Carretera 334 climbs to the ranger station, where you can pick up a map and begin most of the reserve’s 12 trails. Be sure to wear sturdy footwear, and bring lots of water and a pair of binoculars to spy the many bird species, which include nine of Puerto Rico’s 14 endemics.
Discovered after Hurricane Eloise in 1975, Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes is a pre-Columbian site which is still being excavated. Today, it is one of the largest and most important ceremonial sites in Puerto Rico, covering 217,800 sq ft (20,250 sq m), and includes nine bateyes (ball courts) plus burial grounds, all hemmed by boulders etched with petroglyphs. The site displays signs of two cultures: the Igneris, who settled on the island around AD 300, and the Taíno, who overran the Igneris around AD 1000. A small museum displays remarkable exhibits including pottery, axe-heads, and cemi excavated at this site, along with an adult skeleton curled up in a fetal position. A reconstruction of a traditional Taíno village helps educate visitors on the lifestyle of the indigenous people. Visits are by guided tour only and it is advisable to make reservations in advance.
t A reconstructed tribal hut within the Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes
EXPERIENCE Puerto Rico
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Drink Lazy Jacks You’re guaranteed a friendly welcome at this colorful beachside bar. On Saturday nights there’s a dance party that spills out under the stars. ⌂ 61A Calle Orquideas, Vieques ∑ lazyjacksvieques.com Tamboo Tavern With stellar beach views, killer cocktails, and live music, this place packs in the après-surf crowd daily. ⌂ Sandy Beach, Rincón ∑ visittamboo.com Rincón Beer Company This spot is an ale-lover’s idea of heaven, with 16 beers on tap, many from the island’s own microbreweries. ⌂ Plaza del Recreo, Rincón § 787 280 8866 |
EXPERIENCE Puerto Rico
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Eat Blossoms A long-running local favorite that offers an array of Asian dishes, from Szechuan to sushi. ⌂ El Conquistador Resort, Fajardo ∑ elconresort.com \\\ Susie’s Restaurant This cozy restaurant features patio dining lit by tiki torches. ⌂ Rte 250, Dewey, Culebra § 787 340 7058 ¢ Wed & Thu \\\ El Quenepo An elegant option, known for its fusion menu and craft beers. ⌂ Calle Flamboyan 148, Vieques ¢ Sun & Mon ∑ elquenepovieques.com \\\ |
t Hikers exploring the dramatic scenery of El Yunque National Forest
The 44 sq mile (114 sq km) El Yunque National Forest – formerly the Caribbean National Forest – is the only tropical rainforest within the U.S. National Forest system. Ranging from an elevation of 30 ft (9 m) at its base to 3,533 ft (1,077 m) at the top of Cerro El Toro, the rain-sodden park (named for a flat-topped mountain, “the anvil”) features various ecosystems, including high mountain cloud forest and dwarf forest atop the highest slopes. El Portal Rain Forest Center, the main visitors’ center (due to reopen in late 2019 following hurricane damage), offers splendid exhibits on local geology, geography, and ecosystems. The park has a number of hiking trails, from easy to strenuous among plunging waterfalls and steep ravines. This region offers hikers some of the best birding and wildlife viewing on the island.
This golden beach, located on Carretera 187, is favored by the locals on weekends, when families set up picnics beneath the palms. Weekend traffic jams the roads, so it is better to visit the beach on weekdays. Roadside restaurants sell tempting fried seafoods. Paseo Piñones Recreational Trail runs along the shore, providing a scenic thoroughfare for cyclists, joggers, and strollers.
The beach extends east to Playa Vacia Talega, known for its “cemented” sand dunes. Farther inland is Bosque Estatal Piñones, which protects a prize wetland habitat for waterfowl and wading birds. Occupying the coastal flatlands east of Playa Vacia Talega, the small, relatively impoverished town of Loíza Aldea is a center for African culture. Every year in late July it plays host to the colorful, week-long Fiesta de Santiago Apóstol, Puerto Rico’s premier carnival.
t Sun-worshipers relaxing beneath the shade of palm trees on Playa Luquillo
A string of golden-white beaches decorate the northeast shore between the towns of Río Grande and Luquillo. The sands meld into warm, reef-protected waters of peacock blues and greens, great for snorkeling and tide-pooling. Playa Luquillo is lined with a number of upscale resorts. To the west, Playa Río Mar is a relatively uncrowded setting for the vast Wyndham Grand and Rio Mar Country Club. East of Playa Luquillo are the wind-whipped Playa Azul and Playa La Selva, where breakers bring surfers ashore.
The sprawling coastal town of Fajardo is a major maritime center for sportfishing and sailing charters, available at Puerto del Rey Marina. Scheduled ferries also depart here for Vieques and Culebra.
The small Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve, immediately north of Fajardo, protects a mangrove forest where manatees swim in freshwater lagoons and dozens of waterfowl can be seen on the boardwalk trail (reservations are required). The El Faro lighthouse, built in 1882, is well preserved. Nearby, Playa Seven Seas offers good snorkeling in reef-protected shallows.
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⌂ Carretera 987 § 787 722 5882
The largest of the 24 isles of the Spanish Virgin archipelago surrounding Puerto Rico, Vieques takes life at a laidback pace. Most of the inhabitants live in Isabel Segunda, a small town that remains charmingly old-world, with little traffic. During World War II the U.S. Navy used the isle for gunnery practice – a deterrent to development during the next five decades. The bombardment ceased in 2003, when the navy pulled out. Today, Vieques is a chic spot for off-the-beaten-path charm and the chance to see deer, manatee, and four species of marine turtles at Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. Hotels are found mostly around Esperanza, a sleepy village overlooking a gorgeous bay. Nearby, Bioluminescent Bay comes alive at night, when bioluminescent microorganisms glow when disturbed. Manatees also frequent the coastal lagoons. In addition, Vieques is a major nesting site for marine turtles. The Vieques Art and History Museum, in Fort Conde Mirasol, has exhibits on island history.
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⌂ El Fortín Conde de Mirasol, Isabel Segunda § 787 741 1717 # 9am–4pm Wed–Sun
Vieques’s even sleepier smaller sister is renowned for its scintillating beaches, including undisputably Puerto Rico’s finest: Playa Flamenco, a broad curve of pure white sand and gorgeous ocean waters drawing day-trippers from Puerto Rico on weekends. Nearby Playa Carlos Rosario has a coral reef close to shore, perfect for snorkeling, while Playas Resaca, Brava, and Flamenco are protected as marine turtle-nesting sites within Culebra National Wildlife Refuge.
Experience Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico is a hiker’s nirvana. Active travelers can lace up their boots to explore a kaleidoscope of ecosystems and fabulous landscapes. From the lush El Yunque rainforest to the arid, cactus-stippled Bosque Estatal de Guánica, the isle’s 14 forest reserves offer walks, hikes, and treks for every ability.
SHORT AND EASY
Things don’t get much easier than at Reserva Las Cabezas de San Juan, at the northeast tip of the island. A trolley ride leads to a half a mile- (1 km-) long boardwalk trail where you might spot manatees in Laguna Grande. In Bosque Estatal Guajataca, 25 miles (40 km) of trails weave among mogotes — isolated, sheer-faced limestone mountains laced with caverns and canyons.
STAIRMASTER WORKOUT
t Hiker marveling at La Mina Falls in El Yunque (Caribbean National Forest)
The Caribbean National Forest has 23 well-serviced trails through virginal montane forests. Most are short and make easy loops. To test your stamina, take to the rugged 6 mile- (10 km-) long El Toro Trail, passing through all four tropical forest ecosystems as you summit Mount Toro. Farther west, Reserva Forestal Toro Negro has steep trails through forest shrouded in mist.
FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS
t Densely forested path through the jungle at El Yunque
Isla Mona, a 3-hour boat ride from Mayagüez, is called the “Galapagos of the Caribbean.” Two hiking trails offer up-close viewing of Mona iguanas, red-footed boobies, and frigatebirds. The easy 1 mile- (2-km-) long Ballena Trail in Bosque Estatal de Guánica showcases a mosaic of habitats where hawks swoop overhead, iguanas scurry, and thimble-size frogs hop about underfoot.
EXPERIENCE Puerto Rico
Look out for these amazing species while hiking through Puerto Rico’s ample rainforest.
COQUI
t A tiny coqui – the world’s smallest frog
Puerto Rico’s adorably tiny mascot, and the world’s smallest frog, is named for its surprisingly loud two-note “ko-KEE” chirp. There is a Puerto Rican expression, “Soy de aqui, como el coquí,” which translates to “I’m from here, like the coquí.”
PUERTO RICAN GIANT ANOLE
t The long-limbed giant anole
This large, bright-green tree-dwelling lizard extends a red dewlap to attract females and ward off other males. It moves by jumping from branch to branch within the canopy, for which it has evolved long hind limbs.
PUERTO RICAN EMERALD HUMMINGBIRD
t An iridescent male hummingbird
The diminutive zumbadorcito weighs 3 grams (0.1 ounce) and was worshiped by the Taíno as a “god bird.” The male has iridescent green feathers on its body and a black tail, while the female has a white breast and white tail feathers. They are very territorial and often defend their patch with elaborate aerial pursuits.
MONA IGUANA
t The heavily armored Mona iguana
Found only on Isla Mona, this iguana species can reach 3.3 ft (1 m) in length. Despite its dragon-like appearance, it’s a harmless vegetarian and spends most of the day basking in the sun or underground, conserving energy.
PUERTO RICAN PARROT
t A striking green Puerto Rican parrot
The island’s endemic green parrot is critically endangered; fewer than 50 remain in the wild, and only in the El Yunque National Forest.