CHAPTER 2
Meat and Fish Main Dishes
In this chapter you’ll learn how to prepare and cook a range of flavorful meat and fish main dishes that all go really well with rice.
Tonkatsu Pork Cutlet
Tonkatsu is a breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet. Use fresh breadcrumbs, for a light, crispy finish and juicy meat. Another key is to coat the pork with breadcrumbs twice. This way the coating won’t come off easily in the oil, which makes frying the cutlets foolproof!
Make several vertical cuts through the fat and the lean part of the meat, to prevent the cutlet from deforming.
Coat the pork with breadcrumbs and dip in beaten egg.
Note: Panko Japanese-style breadcrumbs are now widely available. You can make your own breadcrumbs by whirring day old sliced bread in a food processor or blender. Stop when the crumbs are still quite rough. Alternatively, grate bread that has been in the freezer for half an hour using a cheese grater.
Serves 2
2 thick pieces pork loin, about 12–16 oz (350–450 g) total
Flour, for coating
Beaten egg, for coating
Breadcrumbs, for coating (see Note)
Oil, for deep-frying
Tonkatsu sauce, Japanese Worcestershire sauce or steak sauce
Shredded cabbage, for garnish
Radish sprouts, for garnish
1 Make several cuts along the dividing line between the fat and the lean meat, to prevent the meat from shrinking when it is fried.
2 Lightly coat the pork slices on both sides with flour, and shake off any excess.
3 Dip the floured pork in beaten egg, then coat with the breadcrumbs, pressing them lightly onto the surface of the pork.
4 Dip the breaded pork in beaten egg again, and coat with more breadcrumbs.
5 Put the oil into a pot or deep frying pan and heat to 350°F (175°C). Put in the breaded pork. When the breading on one side has firmed up, turn the pork. Deep-fry until the pork is crispy and golden brown on both sides.
6 Drain the oil from the pork well. Slice into easy-to-eat pieces, and serve with cabbage and radish sprouts on the side.
VARIATION
Mini Pork Cutlets with Plum Miso
Bite-size cutlets are flavored with umeboshi plum.
The plum-miso paste is salty so spread it very thinly (photo a). Roll up the pork slices diagonally so that they form triangular parcels (photo b), then add the breading.
Serves 2
10 pieces thinly sliced pork loin, about 4 oz (100 g) total
Flour, for coating
Beaten egg, for coating
Fresh breadcrumbs, for coating
Oil, for deep-frying
Radish sprouts, for garnish
For the plum miso
1 umeboshi pickled plum
1 tablespoon miso paste
2 teaspoons mirin
1 Remove the pit from the umeboshi pickled plum and chop the flesh into a paste. Combine with the other plum-miso ingredients in a bowl.
2 Spread out the pork slices and spread thinly with the plum miso. Roll up the pork to form triangular parcels.
3 Coat the rolled-up pork in flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs, in that order. Deep-fry in 350°F (175°C) oil until golden brown and crispy. Drain off the oil, and serve the mini cutlets with radish sprouts on the side.
Chicken Teriyaki
Teriyaki is probably one of the most famous Japanese cooking styles in the world, and it can be used for meat, poultry, fish or vegetables. Teriyaki sauce is easy to make, with just soy sauce, sake and mirin in equal amounts, plus a little sugar to taste.
Spread out the chicken, and make several small cuts in the meat so that it cooks more evenly.
Fry the skin side until very crispy; this way the meat side will gradually cook through too and turn out very juicy. To prevent the chicken from becoming greasy, carefully remove any excess fat from the pan with a paper towel.
The essence of teriyaki is the teri, which means “shine” in Japanese. Coat the chicken well with the sauce. Cook over medium-high heat until it the sauce has thickened and the moisture has almost gone. If the frying pan is too big the sauce won’t coat the chicken very well, so use one that matches the size of the chicken.
Serves 2
2 boneless chicken thighs with skin on, about 8 oz (250 g)
½ tablespoon vegetable oil
For the teriyaki sauce
1½ tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons sake
1½ tablespoons mirin
2 teaspoons raw sugar
Garnish
Blanched broccoli florets
1 Remove any excess fat and sinew from the chicken. Make horizontal cuts in the thick parts of the meat and spread them out, so that the meat is uniform in thickness. Make several small cuts in the meat.
2 Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan, and put in the prepped chicken skin-side down. Fry over medium heat, wiping out any fat that comes out of the chicken with a wadded-up paper towel.
3 When the skin is well browned, turn the chicken over and cook for an additional 4 minutes.
4 Combine the teriyaki sauce ingredients and put in the pan with the chicken. Coat the chicken with the sauce while turning it frequently, until the surface is shiny and the sauce has thickened. Turn off the heat.
5 Slice the chicken into easy-to-eat pieces, and arrange on a plate with some broccoli florets that have been boiled briefly in salted water.
VARIATION
Curried Chicken Teriyaki
The curry flavor adds a twist to this classic dish.
Serves 2
½ tablespoon sake
2½ tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon curry powder
Follow Steps 1 to 3 of the Chicken Teriyaki recipe (above). Combine the sauce ingredients listed here and continue with the rest of the recipe.
Hamburger Steaks with Tofu
Hamburger steaks that contain tofu, which are lower fat than all-meat hamburger steaks, make frequent appearances at dinner in my house. I serve them with grated daikon radish and ponzu sauce. Since the flavors are quite simple, I add some texture with lotus root.
Using a mixture of grated and chopped lotus root creates different textures and adds crunch. It also makes the patties light and airy.
When mixing all the ingredients in Step 2, make sure that no lumps of tofu remain. Mix well until the texture is smooth.
Once both sides of the patties are browned, cover the pan with a lid to steam-fry them thoroughly. Steam-frying is an effective method for foods that don’t cook through easily.
Serves 2
½ block firm tofu, about 4 oz (100 g)
1 lotus root, about 4 oz (100 g), peeled
5 oz (125 g) ground beef
5 oz (125 g) ground pork
1 beaten egg
A little salt
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
A little sake
Garnishes
10–12 sugar snap peas
Grated daikon radish
Ponzu sauce
Note: In Japan it is common to mix beef and pork for this recipe, but it is fine to use just one type.
1 Drain the excess water from the tofu (see page 80). Grate half the lotus root, and cut the rest into ¼ in (6 mm) dice. Boil the sugar snap peas briefly in salted water.
2 Put the beef and pork into a bowl, and add the lotus root, tofu, beaten egg, salt and cornstarch. Mix well until the meat is sticky. Divide the mixture into 2, and form each portion into an oval patty. Make a dent in the middle of each patty.
3 Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan, put in the patties and fry over medium heat. When the bottom side is browned, turn the patties over. Sprinkle in a little sake, turn the heat to low, put on a lid and steam-fry for 2 to 3 minutes.
4 Arrange on serving plates with the sugar snap peas on the side. Top with grated daikon radish and pour on some ponzu sauce before eating.
VARIATION
Meatballs with Sweet & Sour Sauce
Use the same meat mixture but change up the flavors completely!
Serves 2
For the meatballs
The same ingredients as the hamburger steaks
Oil, for deep-frying
For the sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
3 tablespoon rice vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon water
1 Follow Steps 1 and 2 of the Hamburger Steaks recipe (above). Form the mixture into bite-size meatballs.
2 Heat some oil in a deep frying pan to 340°F (170°C). Put in the meatballs, and fry until brown while rolling them around. Drain off the oil.
3 Put the sauce ingredients into another frying pan, and bring to a boil while stirring. When the sauce has thickened, add the meatballs and toss to coat.
Tender Pork with Sesame Sauce
This tender, juicy pork dish is easy to make even if you’ve never tried cooking a block of meat. It’s also very versatile—try serving the pork with different sauces or shredding any leftovers to use in stir-fries. It can also be served in the cooking liquid, which makes a delicious soup.
This photo shows the pork after salting and resting for 30 minutes. Pat the meat dry afterwards, to eliminate the moisture that contains much of the gamy flavor of the meat. The cooking liquid will remain clear and relatively free of scum. If you have time, rest the pork overnight or even for a few days in the refrigerator to age it and deepen the flavor.
Don’t eat the pork as soon as it’s cooked; leave it to cool in the cooking liquid. Also store leftover pork immersed in the cooking liquid if possible. This will keep the meat juicy.
Serves 2
1 teaspoon salt
Block of pork shoulder, about 14 oz (400 g)
1 celery stalk, including the leaves
Green part of 1 baby leek or of 2 fat green onions
2–3 slices ginger, unpeeled
1 in (2.5 cm) square piece dried kombu seaweed
5 cups (1.25 L) water
Garnishes
1 small Japanese or Chinese eggplant
1 baby leek or 2 fat green onions
10 green shiso or basil leaves
1 large piece young ginger, or 2 myoga ginger buds
For the sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
White sesame seeds
Chili pepper powder, to taste
1 Rub the salt into the pork, and rest for at least 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.
2 Put the pork, celery, leek or green onions, ginger, kombu seaweed and water into a pot over medium heat. Bring to a boil, take out the kombu seaweed, and simmer for about 20 minutes while skimming off any scum. Turn off the heat and leave to cool.
3 Prepare the garnishes. Grill the eggplant until charred all over, peel off the skin and shred into strips. Slice the baby leek into thin diagonal slices. Shred the shiso or basil leaves and ginger.
4 Combine the sauce ingredients. Remove the pork from the cooking liquid (you can reserve the liquid for another use, such as Pork Soup with Noodles, below). Arrange slices of pork on a plate with the eggplant, baby leek and ginger on the side. Dress with the sauce before eating.
VARIATION
Pork Soup with Noodles
Don’t throw away the cooking liquid from Tender Pork with Sesame Sauce, use it for this dish!
Serves 2
2 slices boiled pork
½ green onion (scallion)
2 portions dried udon noodles
1¾ cups (425 ml) pork cooking liquid (left over from the Tender Pork with Sesame Sauce recipe, above)
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 Cut the pork into thin strips. Slice the onion in rounds.
2 Bring plenty of water to a boil in a pot, and cook the udon noodles, following the instructions on the packet. Drain.
3 Bring the pork cooking liquid to a boil in another pan. Taste, and season if needed with salt and pepper.
4 Put the cooked noodles in serving bowls and add the soup. Top with the pork and green onion.
Beef and Asparagus Rolls
By wrapping asparagus with thinly sliced beef and pan-frying the rolls quickly, you have a great main dish that is perfect to eat with rice. I’ve kept the seasoning simple too, just using soy sauce. You can use other vegetables, or pork instead of beef.
Serves 2
4 large asparagus stalks
4 large thin slices beef, about 6 oz (175 g) total
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 Remove the tough outer skin of the root end of the asparagus stalks using a vegetable peeler.
2 Spread out the beef slices and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place an asparagus stalk on a slice of beef at the end closest to you, and roll the beef around the asparagus. Repeat for all the beef and asparagus.
3 Heat the oil in a frying pan. Put in the beef and asparagus rolls with the seam sides down, and fry over medium heat. Once the seam sides are stuck together, roll the rolls around in the frying pan to cook them evenly.
4 Add the dark soy sauce to the pan and move the rolls around to coat them. Cut the rolls in half and serve.
Stuffed Bell Peppers
The slightly sweet ketchup-based sauce used for these stuffed peppers makes me feel nostalgic for my childhood. Dusting the peppers with flour beforehand is the secret to keeping the stuffing intact as the peppers cook.
Serves 2
4 small bell peppers or padrone peppers (see Note)
1 tablespoon breadcrumbs
1½ tablespoons milk
Flour, for dusting
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons ketchup
For the filling
8 oz (225 g) ground pork
¼ medium onion, finely chopped
½ medium carrot, finely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
Note: Japanese green bell peppers are quite small, about the size of padrone peppers. Increase the amount of stuffing if using larger bell peppers.
1 Cut the bell peppers in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds, calyxes and white parts inside. Put the breadcrumbs and milk in a small bowl and leave until the breadcrumbs are moist.
2 In a separate large bowl, add the moistened breadcrumbs and the filling ingredients, and mix thoroughly with your hands.
3 Lightly dust the insides of the bell peppers with flour using a small sieve. Divide the meat mixture into 8 portions, and stuff the peppers so that the filling is nicely mounded.
5 Heat the oil in a frying pan, and put in the peppers with the meat filling side facing down. Fry over medium heat until the meat is browned. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan with a lid and steam-fry for 5 to 6 minutes. When the peppers are cooked through, remove from the frying pan to a serving plate.
6 Put the wine in the same frying pan, turn the heat to medium, and use a spatula to stir the wine while scraping the pan. Add the ketchup and stir until the sauce has thickened. Pour the sauce over the peppers.
Chicken Wings in Black Vinegar Sauce
Mildly sour and full of flavor, black vinegar makes this dish taste very refined even though it’s so easy. Black vinegar is used in China as well as Japan, and is available at Asian grocery stores.
By blanching the chicken before cooking, the particular odor it has (which is considered undesirable in Japanese cooking), as well as any extra fat, will be eliminated. You just need to boil it for about 20 seconds, until the surface of the chicken has tightened up.
4 whole chicken wings
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
For the simmering sauce
2 slices ginger
¾ cup (185 ml) dashi stock (see pages 6–7)
2½ tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup (125 ml) sake
½ cup (125 ml) black vinegar
1 Bring some water to a boil in a pan and blanch the chicken wings (see photo caption for how to blanch). Drain in a colander.
2 Put all the simmering sauce ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the blanched chicken wings and the hard-boiled eggs. Cover with a small lid that sits right on top of the ingredients in the pan, or a piece of kitchen parchment paper with several holes cut into it, and simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced to a third of its original volume. Check regularly to skim off any scum. Cut the boiled eggs in half lengthwise, and serve the eggs, chicken wings and sauce in bowls.
VARIATION
Fragrant Chicken Rice
Mix the flavor-packed chicken-wing meat with fragrant herbs in rice
Because the chicken wings are cooked thoroughly, the meat just falls off the bones. Remove the cartilage as well as the bones, to make this easy to eat.
Serves 2
2 Chicken Wings in Black Vinegar Sauce (see above)
½ bunch mitsuba, or other greens (see Note)
1½ tablespoons gari pickled ginger, well drained
2 bowls warm cooked rice
Note: If you can’t find mitsuba (also known as Japanese parsley and other names), try substituting mizuna greens, Italian parsley, chervil or celery leaves.
1 Remove the meat from the chicken wings and shred roughly. Chop up the mitsuba or other greens into 1¼ in (3 cm) pieces. Finely shred the pickled ginger.
2 Put the rice, chicken and mitsuba in a large bowl and mix well. Serve in individual rice bowls.
Simmered Beef and Tofu
This classic simmered dish has a salty-sweet flavor like sukiyaki. It’s great with plain rice or as a snack while drinking. If you want it to be even more flavorful, let it cool down before eating.
Prevent the beef from getting too tough by adding it later. Take care not to overcook the tofu, or the texture will become rough and unpleasant.
Serves 2
1 block firm tofu, about 8 oz (250 g)
4 thin green onions (scallions)
5 oz (125 g) thinly sliced beef
For the simmering liquid
⅔ cup (160 ml) kombu dashi stock
2½ tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons raw sugar
1½ tablespoons sake
1 Cut the tofu into 8 pieces. Slice the green onions into 3 in (8 cm) diagonal pieces.
2 Put all the simmering liquid ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the tofu and simmer for about 4 minutes. Add the beef and simmer for a further 3 minutes. Add the green onions at the end, and simmer briefly.
Shabu Shabu Salad
During the hot summer months, I often get a craving for this cold version of shabu shabu, a dish where thin pork slices are cooked briefly in hot water and eaten with a sauce. This cooking method ensures the pork is tender.
To ensure tender pork, cook quickly in hot but not boiling water. Take it out while it’s still a bit pink—it will continue cooking with residual heat.
Serves 2
6 very thin pork slices, about 7 oz (200 g)
1 medium tomato, for garnish
Handful mizuna greens, or other greens, for garnish
For the sesame sauce
1 tablespoon tahini, or sesame paste
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Pinch of raw sugar
1 Bring a pan of water to a boil, then turn off the heat. Separate the pork slices and put one slice in the hot water at a time and spread them out. Move each slice around in the water with a fork; when the pork turns a pale pink but not quite grey, take it out, place in a colander or sieve lined with a paper towel and leave to cool. (If you want the pork to be really chilled, refrigerate it for a while.)
2 Make a crisscross shallow cut into the flat end of the tomato, dunk it into boiling water and peel off the skin. Cut the tomato into 8 wedges. Cut the greens into 2 in (5 cm) long pieces.
3 Put the sesame sauce ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
4 Arrange the pork, tomatoes and mizuna greens on plates and spoon over the sesame sauce.
Japanese-style Beef Steak
Steak is a treat for special occasions. I’m sure there are plenty of people who would like to learn how to cook a piece of expensive beef properly. In this recipe I’ll share with you my secret for cooking steak so that it’s not over- or under-done.
If cooking rare or medium rare steaks, bring meat that has been refrigerated to room temperature before cooking. Cover the steaks while they come to room temperature to prevent them from drying out.
Give the steaks a mouthwatering brown surface by pan-frying them over high heat. A cast-iron frying pan is perfect for browning the meat evenly. When you put the steaks in the pan, don’t move them around for while. The steaks are done if they bounce back slightly when pressed with a finger.
Once fried, wrap the two steaks in a piece foil for 3 to 4 minutes so they continue to cook with residual heat. The steak in the photo is about ½ in (about 1.5 cm) thick. If your steaks are thicker than that, leave them wrapped for 5 to 8 minutes.
Note: Yuzu kosho is a condiment made with ground green chili peppers, yuzu juice and zest. It is spicy, slightly sour and refreshing. It’s sold in jars and is available at Japanese grocery stores or online.
Serves 2
2 beef steaks
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Green beans, strings removed, trimmed
3 king oyster mushrooms, sliced in half
Salt and pepper, to taste
Yuzu kosho (see Note), to taste
1 Leave the steaks out for 2 to 3 hours until the meat no longer feels cold to the touch. Season with salt and pepper on both sides just before cooking.
2 Heat a frying pan (preferably a cast-iron one) over high heat, spread around some olive oil, and add the seasoned steaks. Turn the heat to medium-high and fry until the meat has changed color about one fifth of the way up the sides. Turn the steaks and fry on the other side. If your steaks are very thick, quickly sear the sides too.
3 Take the steaks out of the pan and wrap in aluminum foil. Rest for 3 to 4 minutes.
4 Heat more olive oil in the same frying pan. Put in the green beans and king oyster mushrooms and stir-fry. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the pan, cut the green beans in half and cut the king oyster mushrooms into bite-size pieces; arrange both on two serving plates. Slice the steaks into slices and arrange on the plates. Serve a little yuzu kosho on the side.
VARIATION
White Wine and Onion Sauce
Bring out the flavors of steak with a rich, sweet sauce.
Sauté the onion slowly to bring out its sweetness, until it’s a light golden brown as shown in the photo.
Serves 2
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
½ onion, finely chopped
½ tablespoon olive oil
2 beef steaks
2 tablespoons white wine
Salt and pepper Chopped parsley
1 Heat the butter in a frying pan, add the onion and sauté over medium-low heat until slightly browned. Take the onion and butter out of the pan.
2 Add the olive oil to the same frying pan. Fry the steaks, following Steps 1 and 2 of the recipe above.
3 Discard any remaining fat in the pan. Put in the wine and stir over medium heat while scraping the pan with a spatula. Put the onion back in and sauté until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper.
4 Put the steaks on serving plates, and spoon the onion sauce over them. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Simmered Yellowtail and Daikon
This classic wintertime dish is known as buri daikon. The daikon radish, which soaks up the umami of the fish, is particularly tasty. If you can get your hands on yellowtail bones, throw them into the simmering pot too for even more flavor. Use swordfish if you can’t find yellowtail.
Just like mackerel or other oily fish, yellowtail has a pretty strong fishy odor. Pouring boiling water over will eliminate the fishiness. Don’t skip this important step. See page 17 (Mackerel in Miso Sauce) for more detailed instructions.
Daikon radish isn’t bitter, so you can microwave it instead of parboiling. Put the slices on a microwave-safe plate, cover with cling film and microwave at 600W for about 5 minutes.
Serves 2
2 pieces fresh yellowtail, or swordfish, each about 6–8 oz (150–250 g)
Salt, for sprinkling
1¼ lb (600 g) daikon radish, peeled
1 piece ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
For the simmering liquid
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup (125 ml) sake
1½ tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon sugar
1¼ cups (300 ml) water
Garnishes
Finely shredded ginger
1 Cut each piece of fish in half, and sprinkle salt on both sides. Leave to rest for 10 minutes. Put the fish pieces on a shallow sieve or in a colander and pour boiling water over them until the surface is white. Briefly put the fish in a bowl of cold water, then drain and pat dry with paper towels.
2 Slice the daikon radish into ¾ in (2 cm) thick slices, then cut each slice into quarters. Put into a pan with cold water to cover, bring to a boil and boil for about 8 minutes, then drain into a colander.
3 Put the daikon radish, sliced ginger and all the simmering liquid ingredients in a pan. Cover with a small lid that sits right on top of the ingredients in a pan, or a piece of kitchen parchment paper with several holes poked into it. Bring to a boil over medium heat, and add the fish. Cover again, and simmer over low heat for about 15 minutes. Serve with a little shredded ginger.
VARIATION
Yellowtail with Miso Butter Sauce
The sweet, thick sauce goes surprisingly well with the yellowtail.
Serves 2
2 pieces fresh yellowtail, or swordfish, each about 6–8 oz (150–250 g)
Salt, for sprinkling
1¼ lb (600 g) daikon radish, peeled
1 piece ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
For the simmering liquid
½ cup (125 ml) sake
1¼ cups (300 ml) water
3 tablespoons white miso paste
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon water
Garnishes
Grated yuzu or lemon zest (optional)
1 Follow Steps 1 and 2 of the recipe for Simmered Yellowtail and Daikon Radish (above).
2 Put the daikon radish, sliced ginger and the sake and water from the simmering liquid ingredients into a pan over medium heat. When it comes to a boil, add the fish. Lower the heat to medium-low, and simmer for about 10 minutes.
3 Add the miso and butter, and simmer for another 5 minutes.
4 Mix the cornstarch and 1 teaspoon of water together. Turn off the heat under the pan, swirl in the cornstarch-and-water mixture and stir quickly. Turn the heat back on to low, and simmer until the sauce is thickened. Turn off the heat. Serve topped with grated yuzu or lemon zest.
Miso-marinated Mackerel
Marinate the fish in advance, cook it and you have your main dish! This marinating method also works well with salmon, cod, chicken and pork. Mild white miso goes well with mackerel, but you can change the miso type depending on what you are marinating.
The longer the fish is marinated, the deeper the flavor will be. You can also freeze the fish, wrapped in the marinade, for up to 3 weeks.
Serves 2
2 pieces Spanish mackerel, or 2 salmon fillets
A little salt
Pickles or greens, for garnish
For the miso marinade
⅓ cup (100 g) white miso
2 teaspoons sake
2 teaspoons mirin
1 Salt both sides of the fish pieces, and rest for about 20 minutes. Wipe off any moisture that comes out of the fish with paper towels.
2 Put the miso marinade ingredients in a bowl, and mix well to combine.
3 Spread the marinade on a sheet of cling film. Put the fish pieces on top of the marinade and spread the top sides of the fish with more marinade. Wrap the fish tightly so it is completely enveloped in the marinade. Refrigerate at least overnight, or for up to 3 days.
4 Unwrap the fish and wipe off the marinade. Rinse it quickly under running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cook on a heated grill (use a fish grill if you have one), or bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven until lightly browned. Here I’ve served with pickled turnip (available at Japanese groceries), but you can use a few sprigs of watercress, parsley or baby greens instead.
Crunchy Shrimp Fritters
Flavorful shrimp paste is sandwiched between crunchy slices of lotus root. The shrimp filling is subtly flavored with ginger juice and shiso leaves.
Serves 2
4 oz (100 g) fresh shrimp, peeled and cleaned
A little ginger juice (grate some ginger and squeeze out the juice)
5 green shiso leaves or basil leaves
Salt, to taste
Section of fresh lotus root, about 2 in (5 cm) long
Cornstarch, for dusting
Oil, for deep-frying
1 lime
1 Chop up the shrimp roughly, then go over it again with a knife to chop it into a paste. Put the shrimp paste in a bowl with the ginger juice, finely chopped green shiso or basil leaves and salt, and mix well.
2 Wash and peel the lotus root section, then slice it into 8 rounds, each about ¼ in (6 mm) thick. Dust the slices thoroughly on both sides with cornstarch. Spread one quarter of the shrimp paste onto a slice of lotus root, and top with another slice to make a sandwich. Dust the surface of the shrimp paste between the slices with cornstarch too.
3 Put some oil in a pan or deep frying pan, and heat to 340°F (170°C). Put in the lotus root–shrimp sandwiches and deep-fry until crispy and light brown, turning once. Cut each slice in half and serve with half a lime.
Steamed Sea Bream
Fish steamed with kombu seaweed has a lighter flavor than simmered fish. The key is to steam the fish fast over high heat. The fish will turn out tender, juicy and flavorful.
Serves 2
2 pieces sea bream, or similar white fish
Salt, for sprinkling
Handful shimeji mushrooms, or other flavorful mushrooms of your choice
4 in (10 cm) square piece dried kombu seaweed
2 tablespoons sake
Yuzu or lime zest, shredded, for garnish
Ponzu sauce, to taste
Note: If you don’t have a steamer, use a steamer basket that fits inside a regular pan, or a bamboo steamer from an Asian kitchen-supply store. Or try this: Find an ovenproof plate just a bit smaller than one of your pans. Put 3–4 crumpled up balls of aluminum foil in the pan. Put in water so that it comes to about halfway up the balls. Put the fish and mushrooms on the plate, and place inside the pan on top of the balls. Put a lid on the pan and bring the water to a boil. Open the lid halfway, and continue steaming until the fish and mushrooms are done, about 7 minutes.
1 Sprinkle both sides of the fish with salt, and rest for 15 minutes. Wipe off any moisture that comes out of the fish with a paper towel. Make several shallow cuts into the skin side of the fish.
2 Cut the tough stem ends off the shimeji mushrooms. Line a heatproof dish with the kombu seaweed, and place the fish and mushrooms on top. Sprinkle with the sake.
3 Bring a food steamer or steaming machine (see Note) to full heat so that the steam is rising briskly. Put the dish with the fish and mushrooms in the steamer, and steam over high heat for 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer to serving plates and top with some finely shredded yuzu zest. Sprinkle on ponzu sauce before eating.
Sardines in Plum Sauce
Tart pickled plums go well with sardines.
Serves 2
6 fresh sardines
2 umeboshi pickled plums
1 piece ginger, thinly sliced
For the simmering liquid
2½ tablespoons dark soy sauce
⅔ cup (160 ml) sake
2½ tablespoons mirin
⅔ cup (160 ml) water
1 Scrape the scales off the sardines with the tip of a knife, and cut off the heads and tails. Open up the belly side and remove the intestines. Rinse under running water and pat dry. (See page 56 for detailed instructions.)
2 Put all the simmering liquid ingredients in a pan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Add the umeboshi pickled plums and ginger. Put the sardines into the pan in a single layer, and cover with a small lid that fits right on top of the fish, or a piece of kitchen parchment paper with a few holes poked in it. Simmer over medium-low heat.
3 When the liquid in the pan has reduced by half, take the lid off and continue simmering while swirling the pan to coat the fish with the sauce. When there is just a little liquid left in the pan and the sardines are shiny, turn the heat off. Transfer the sardines and the remaining liquid to a serving plate.
Braised Flounder
If you can’t find flounder, use a similar flat fish. The key is to use lots of sake in the simmering liquid.
Serves 2
2 pieces flounder or similar flat fish, such as halibut, plaice or sole
For the simmering liquid
3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
¾ cup (185 ml) sake
3 tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon raw sugar
Mint leaves, or kinome (sansho pepper leaves), for garnish
1 Scrape the scales off the fish with the tip of a knife. Make several shallow cuts into the skin side.
2 Place the fish in a colander, and pour boiling water over it to “frost” it (turn the surface white).
3 Put the simmering liquid ingredients in a pan over medium heat. When the liquid comes to a boil, add the fish, skin side up, and cover with a small lid that fits right on top of the fish, or with a piece of kitchen parchment paper with a few holes poked in it. Cook over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes.
4 Take off the lid, and continue cooking while swirling the pan to coat the fish with the sauce. When there is very little liquid left in the pan, turn off the heat. Serve garnished with mint leaves or kinome.
Sweet and Sour Mackerel
The traditional sweet-sour sauce used to make this dish is called nanban-su (vinegar from southern lands). Fish cooked this way is so good that you can’t stop eating it! I’ve added dashi stock to this recipe too, for an even deeper flavor.
If you fry small fish like this at high temperature until lightly browned and crispy, you can eat the whole fish, including the heads, tails and bones. This extended frying process also gives the fish a lovely nutty flavor.
As soon as you drain the oil from the fish, put them directly into the shallow tray with the nanban vinegar sauce. If you let the fish get cold before putting them in, they won’t soak up the flavors well. Cover the fish with the onion slices to help the flavors penetrate.
Serves 2
½ medium onion
12 small horse mackerel or baby sardines, 8 oz (250 g) total
Flour, for dusting
Oil, for deep-frying
For the sauce
1¼ cups (300 ml) dashi stock (see pages 6–7)
2½ tablespoons light soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1½ tablespoons sugar
¼–½ red chili pepper, deseeded and sliced
1 Slice the onion thinly. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a bowl, and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer the sauce to a shallow tray, and add the onion.
2 Open up the Spanish mackerel from the belly side and remove the intestines (see page 56). Rinse under running water and pat dry. Dust lightly with flour.
3 Put some oil in a pan or deep frying pan and heat to 355°F (180°C). Add the floured fish and fry, turning occasionally, until crispy on the surface. Take out and drain off the oil.
4 Put the hot just-fried fish in the sauce. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes before serving, turning once during that time.
VARIATION
Mackerel with Peppers
This variation on Sweet and Sour Mackerel uses colorful red and yellow bell peppers.
Serves 2
⅓ each red and yellow bell peppers, deseeded
¼ celery stalk
12 small horse mackerel or baby sardines, 8 oz (250 g) total
Flour
Oil, for deep-frying
For the sauce
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons honey
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 Slice the bell peppers thinly. Blanch in hot water (see page 28 for how to blanch), and drain. Remove the tough outer fibers of the celery and shred lengthwise. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a bowl and mix. Transfer to a shallow tray, and add the bell pepper and celery.
2 Follow Steps 2 to 4 of the Sweet and Sour Mackerel recipe above.
Mixed Tempura Fritters
You’ll be surprised at how easy it can be to cook tempura. All you need to do is pay attention to a few small points. The more you make this dish, the easier it gets, and you can enjoy cooking seasonal ingredients tempura-style all year round!
Make several small, deep diagonal cuts into the belly side of each shrimp to sever the sinew and straighten out the shrimp. It should now hang down straight when you hold it by the tail.
Mix the batter briefly once you have sifted in the flour. It’s fine if a few floury lumps remain. If you overmix the batter, it won’t be crispy when fried. Another key is to chill the batter ingredients and the bowl beforehand.
Serves 2 or 4
8 large fresh shrimp
1½ in piece Asian or regular sweet potato (see Note)
12 green beans
½ medium onion
Flour, for dusting
Oil, for deep-frying
For the fritter batter
1 egg yolk
¾ cup (185 ml) cold water
1 cup (120 g) flour
For the dipping sauce
¾ cup (185 ml) dashi stock (see pages 6–7)
2½ tablespoons soy sauce
2½ tablespoons mirin
Grated daikon radish
Grated ginger
Note: Asian sweet potatoes have purple skin and pale creamy flesh, and are sweeter and less watery than the orange type of sweet potato. I recommend the Asian type if you can find them, but either type works fine.
1 Refrigerate the tempura batter ingredients and all the items to be coated in the batter until just before you use them.
2 Shell the shrimp, leaving the tail on. Remove the intestines (see page 56). Make a cut into the end of each shrimp tail, and scrape a knife tip towards the end to push out the water in the tail. Rinse the shrimp in lightly salted cold water, and pat dry. Make 3 to 4 small deep cuts in the belly side of each shrimp, hold them at the back side, and straighten them out.
3 Slice the sweet potato into 4 rounds, leaving the skin on. Remove the strings from the green beans. Slice the onion thinly against the grain, about ¼ in (6 mm) thick. Skewer the onion slices with wooden toothpicks to prevent the rings from separating.
4 Make the fritter batter. Put the egg yolk and cold water in a chilled bowl and mix together. Sift in the flour and mix roughly.
5 Dust the ingredients to be fried lightly with flour, using a brush. This will ensure that the batter doesn’t come off them while frying.
6 Put some oil in a pan or deep frying pan, and heat to 340°F (170°C). Dip the flour-dusted ingredients in the batter, and fry, a couple of pieces at a time, turning each piece once or twice, until crispy. Drain off the oil.
7 Put all the dipping sauce ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil. Arrange the tempura on plates and serve with the dipping sauce in a bowl on the side. Grated daikon radish and grated ginger can be served to mix into the dipping sauce.
VARIATION
Scallop Fritters
Lotus root adds an amazingly crunchy texture!
Slide each fritter into the hot oil slowly, at the side of the pan, using a ladle. If it looks as if it will fall apart, hold it for a few seconds until it firms.
Makes 8 Fritters
4–5 large fresh scallops
Small bunch parsley, or mitsuba
1 lotus root, about 4 oz (100 g), peeled
Flour, for dusting
Oil, for frying
Salt, to serve
For the fritter batter
As above
1 Cut the scallops into ½ in (1 cm) dice. Slice the parsley into 1¼ in (3 cm) pieces. Cut the lotus root into ¼ in (6 mm) thick slices, then cut each slice into small wedges.
2 Make the fritter batter, following the instructions in Step 4 of the recipe above.
3 Put the scallops, parsley and lotus root in a bowl, and dust lightly with flour.
4 Make ready a separate small bowl, and put in ⅛ of the batter. Add ⅛ of the mixture from Step 3 into the batter and mix. (When you tilt the bowl a small amount of batter should remain at the bottom.)
5 Put some oil in a pan or deep frying pan, and heat to 340°F (170°C). Scoop up the contents of the small bowl with a spoon or small ladle, and slide into the oil along the side of the pan. When the fritter has firmed up, turn it over, and fry until crispy. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the rest of the batter and ingredients. Serve on a plate with salt on the side.
How to Prepare Seafood
Clams
Put the clams in a shallow bowl, and add enough salt water (1 tablespoon of salt per 2 cups water) to cover. Put on a lid and leave to soak for 2–3 hours. Rinse with plain water before using.
Shrimp
Shell the shrimp and make a shallow cut into the back side to remove the veins (photo a). If you don’t want to make a cut in the shrimp, make a hole in the back with a bamboo skewer and pull the veins out (photo b).
Squid
Hold the squid around its eyes, and pull the innards out of the body.
Pull out the plastic-like quill from the body.
To prepare the legs, make a cut under the eyes. Remove the hard beak in the middle of the legs. Discard the eye and innards.
To prepare the body, insert your fingers between the body and the side fins and pull to separate them. Discard the fins.
Sardines
Scrape off the scales with the tip of a knife. Cut off the head.
Cut into the belly side, and remove the intestines. Rinse the fish and pat dry.
Insert your thumbs along the spine and open up the fish to the tail.
Remove the spine, starting from the head end.
Shave off the hard spiny part near the tail with a knife.
Mackerel
Use the tip of a knife to scrape off the scales. Shave off the hard spiny part near the tail.
Cut off the head.
Cut open the belly, and remove the intestines. Rinse the fish and pat dry.
Cut into the back side, and run your knife parallel to the cutting board along the spine, from the head end to the tail.
Cut into the tail end towards the back. Feel the knife hitting the spine, and move your knife slowly towards the head while opening up the fish.
Insert the knife tip between the spine and the body, and cut off that half of the fish. You now have one fillet.
Repeat on the other side to remove the other fillet.
Cut off the bones on the belly side.
Pull out any small bones, using tweezers.
Finished. You will have two boned fillets, plus the spine part.