Toasted Bulgur with Spicy Broccoli Rabe and Garlic Chips
Red Quinoa with Crispy Kale, Charred Butternut Squash, and Cashew-Honey Dressing
Seed Bowl with Wild Rice and Ginger Kale
Quinoa Bowl with Curried Cauliflower, Pickled Raisins, and Beet-Tahini Dressing
Sesame Tuna with Carrot Ribbons and Avocado Cream
A HEARTY LUNCH OPTION, grain bowls take the satiating quality of whole grains and pair it with the freshness of a salad. Grain bowls are layered affairs—something steamed, something roasted, something fresh—that are married together with vinaigrette. They are perfect for packed lunches and midday fuel.
Whole grains are actual plant seeds. They are an excellent source of fiber and often protein, and are slowly metabolized by the body, leaving us feeling satisfied longer and contributing to stabilized blood sugar levels. It is widely accepted that whole grains, including those that are gluten-free, are paramount to a healthy diet and aid in the prevention of cancer, heart disease, and diabetes. Grain bowls can be absolute flavor bombs, packing in a new seasoning or spice with every component. Grains can be left plain or tossed in simple vinaigrettes—even tossing cooked grains in a good, peppery olive oil will alter the flavor profile subtly. Flavor accumulates as ingredients are added—whole or toasted spices, fried nuts, toothsome seeds, and more can be layered on for zing and intrigue.
with Spicy Broccoli Rabe and Garlic Chips
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 cups uncooked bulgur wheat
3 cups boiling water
1 bunch broccoli rabe
10 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons red chili flakes
1 teaspoon lemon zest
½ cup golden raisins
3 tablespoons champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
¼ cup roasted almonds, chopped
Toasting grains before you steam them is a subtle way to introduce flavor into an otherwise unexciting grain—a bit of doctoring up really amplifies the flavor. Broccoli rabe (a.k.a. rapini) is similar to broccoli but has broad leaves and an appealing bitter flavor. Be sure to source these and not broccolini, which look similar but taste like broccoli and won’t add much to the bowl. Adding a soft-boiled egg turns this into a more substantial meal.
► Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.
► Heat a large skillet over high heat. When the skillet is hot, toast the bulgur grains, stirring constantly, until lightly browned and fragrant, about 4 minutes. In a medium glass bowl, put the toasted bulgur and pour in the boiling water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a plate and set aside to steam until all the water is absorbed and the grains are al dente, 20 to 25 minutes.
► While the bulgur is steaming, on a large baking sheet, put the broccoli rabe and garlic. Cover with 3 tablespoons of the oil, turning with your hands to coat thoroughly and evenly. Season liberally with salt and pepper and spread in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake the broccoli rabe until charred and tender, about 20 minutes, turning once halfway through. Remove it from the oven and set aside to cool slightly. While the broccoli rabe is still warm, add the chili flakes and zest, tossing until well combined.
► Drain any additional water from the grains. Add the raisins, vinegar, honey, and the remaining 3 tablespoons oil to the bulgur and set aside until ready to use.
► To compose the bowls, put equal parts bulgur in each bowl and top with equal parts of broccoli rabe and garlic cloves. Scrape any residual oil from the baking sheet over the bowls. Sprinkle with almonds and serve.
with Crispy Kale, Charred Butternut Squash, and Cashew-Honey Dressing
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE CASHEW-HONEY DRESSING:
½ cup raw cashews
¼ cup boiling water
1 teaspoon honey
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 butternut squash, halved, seeded, cut into 2-inch-thick slices
3 tablespoons harissa
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more for seasoning
2 cups water
1½ cups red quinoa, rinsed until water runs clear
1 bunch kale, stemmed and torn into pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
Quinoa, when cooked, has an outer germ that breaks from the internal seed and provides firm, crispy texture. If left uncooked, quinoa can be eaten after soaking in liquid for a short period—doing this adds even more texture to the bowl and qualifies as a raw food. Here, squash is roasted until burned around the edges in a fiery chili sauce, while kale is roasted and crumbled into the salad as a flaky “chip.” For a pop of protein, a thick cashew-based dressing is made slightly sweet with honey.
► Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
► To make the dressing, in a small bowl, put the cashews, water, honey, and cumin and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. In a blender, puree the mixture until smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside until ready to use.
► In a large bowl, put the squash pieces. Add the harissa, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and ½ teaspoon of the salt and toss to evenly coat. In a shallow roasting pan, place the squash, making sure the slices do not overlap. Scrape up any remaining harissa from the bowl and drizzle it over the squash pieces, then bake for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, toss the squash lightly to recoat with the harissa, and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 10 to 25 minutes more, until the squash is tender and the harissa starts to get crispy and thick.
► While the squash is roasting, steam the quinoa. In a medium pot with a lid over high heat, put the water and quinoa, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove the pot from heat, and allow the quinoa to continue steaming, covered, for about 10 minutes more.
► Meanwhile, in a large bowl, put the kale, the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Using your hands, toss to combine well so that all the pieces of kale are coated in oil. Massage the oil into the folds and crinkles of the kale and place it on two baking sheets in a single layer. (Make sure the edges of the kale do not overlap. You may need to bake in batches.) Put the baking sheets in the oven and roast until the kale is crispy but not charred, 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the kale chips over halfway through baking to help dry them out. Small pieces will cook faster, so remove any pieces that crisp up early. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and set the kale chips aside to cool for 1 or 2 minutes before serving.
► To make the individual servings, in a shallow bowl, put 1 cup of the quinoa. Place several slices of the squash on top, crumble several kale chips over them, drizzle with a quarter of the dressing, and serve. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
with Wild Rice and Ginger Kale
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 cups water
1 cup wild rice
1 bunch kale, stemmed and torn into pieces
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon poppy seed
1 tablespoon aniseed
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
2 teaspoons sesame oil
My friend, the late Christina Choi, used to own a little café called Nettletown in Seattle where she turned out fusion food that was thoughtful, delicious, and healthy. In a world full of sandwiches for lunch, her café was a reprieve where I often had a quick meal between my garden work. One of my favorites was her Bhutan rice bowl—a simply steamed bowl of rice, seeds, dried seaweed, and sesame oil. Here is my homage to this dish, which I make when I want a simple, small, and satisfying vegetarian meal.
► Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
► In a medium pot over high heat, bring the water to a boil. Add the rice and bring back up to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the rice is cooked through and splits, 45 to 60 minutes. Drain off any remaining water and set aside, keeping the cover on to continue steaming.
► In a large bowl, put the kale, olive oil, and ginger. Using your hands, toss to combine well so that all the pieces of kale are coated in oil. Massage the oil into the folds and crinkles of the kale. Add a few more drops of olive oil, if needed. Place the kale on two baking sheets in a single layer. (Make sure the edges of the kale do not overlap. You may need to bake in batches.) Season to taste with salt and pepper and put the baking sheets in the oven. Roast until the kale is crispy but not charred, 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the kale chips over halfway through baking to help dry them out. Small pieces will bake faster, so remove any pieces that crisp up early. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and set the kale chips aside to cool.
► In a small bowl, combine the sesame, poppy, anise, and fennel seeds with the chili flakes and salt.
► To compose the bowls, in a large bowl, put the sesame oil and the rice and stir well to coat. Put equal portions of the cooked rice in each bowl and top with equal portions of kale. Sprinkle with equal portions of the seed mix and serve.
IN THE ANATOMY OF A GRAIN BOWL, the grains provide the base layer and can be simply steamed or manipulated to offer flavor or texture. Add crispness to steamed grains by sautéing them with garlic and oil over high heat. Baking, too, lends a chewy mouthfeel to steamed grains—check out Herby Peas and Crispy Green Rice. For variety combine different grains. Try both quinoa and wild rice as a grain bowl base. Pulses, too, can be added to bulk up the meal—think millet with a spoonful of black beans or brown rice tossed with chickpeas.
You can add flavor by steaming grains with broth instead of water. Try adding a cupful of leftover wine to the broth, which furthers the savory flavor. Cooking water may also be infused with aromatics. Add citrus peels, dried spices, or fresh herbs to the pot.
From there, build. Greens come next and range from raw salad greens to crispy roasted kale leaves. Take advantage of cooking techniques to add texture. Roasting greens adds a crisp, burned flavor to the bowl, while steaming vegetables contributes pure flavor and creaminess. In summer add a handful of chopped fresh lettuce leaves and plenty of herbs. In winter rely on thinly sliced ribbons of cabbage or kale. Toss tough greens with vinaigrette first to help them soften, or leave them raw for a toothsome bite (like we do in Winter Salads with Lemongrass-Pistachio Brussels Sprouts and Lime-Soaked Leaves).
After the veg, add-ins and dressings can really make the bowl! Sliced chilies, crispy pieces of dried seaweed, flavorful puffed rice (like in Broccoli “Steaks” with Zucchini Hummus and Curried Puffed Rice), and pickled fruit and vegetables work beautifully. Add crunch to the bowl by way of seeds, sprouts (see Homegrown Sprouts), and nuts. Raw, toasted, or fried, these contribute both flavor and protein to grain bowls. Dried fruits add sweetness and texture—soak them in liquid first (sherry-infused raisins!) and you double up on flavor.
Options for grain bowls are seemingly endless, making them an excellent addition to the salad lineup.
with Curried Cauliflower, Pickled Raisins, and Beet-Tahini Dressing
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 medium head cauliflower (about 1 pound)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons curry powder
2 cups water
1½ cups quinoa, rinsed until water runs clear
½ cup raisins
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
FOR THE BEET-TAHINI DRESSING:
1 medium red beet (about 3 ounces), peeled and diced
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons tahini
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon lemon zest
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
This bowl packs big flavor and gets extra points for color—the beet-tahini dressing is bright fuchsia and will turn everything pink once stirred in. Like most bowls this one is composed of various layers, yet it is easy to make and comes together quickly. Use any leftover roasted vegetables from last night’s dinner in place of the cauliflower, and you can have a meal on the table (or packed for an at-desk lunch) in minutes. If you have time and want to get fancy, use a pickling brine for the raisins—A+ for flavor.
► Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
► Peel the outer leaves from the cauliflower, setting them aside. Break off the cauliflower florets and cut the core into small chunks. On a large baking sheet, put the florets, core, and full leaves, leaving space between them so they’re not overlapping much. Drizzle with the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss well so all the pieces are coated and roast for 30 minutes, until the cauliflower is crispy and brown. Check after 10 minutes and remove any leaves that are charred and burning. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the curry powder over the cauliflower, tossing to coat all the pieces evenly. Set aside.
► To steam the quinoa, in a medium pot with a lid over high heat, put the water and grains, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 15 minutes more, or until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove the pot from heat, and allow the quinoa to continue steaming, covered, for about 10 minutes more.
► In a small bowl, put the raisins and pour the vinegar over them. Set aside to soak for 15 minutes, then drain.
► To make the dressing, in a blender, puree the beet, lemon juice, oil, tahini, honey, zest, and salt until well combined and smooth. If the mixture is too thick, you may need to add water. Start with 1 or 2 tablespoons, up to 4 at most.
► To compose the bowls, in each bowl, put 1 cup of quinoa and top with equal portions of cauliflower, raisins, and cilantro. Spoon equal portions of the beet-tahini dressing into each bowl and serve.
with Carrot Ribbons and Avocado Cream
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
12 ounces raw albacore or yellowfin tuna, cut into ½-inch chunks
1 tablespoon tamari
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
3 green onions, 1 thinly sliced and 2 cut into thin batons, divided
5 cups water
2 cups brown rice, rinsed until water runs clear
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 medium carrots, peeled
FOR THE AVOCADO CREAM:
1 medium to large avocado
½ cup water
1 tablespoon white miso
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
1 red serrano chili pepper, thinly sliced, for garnish
1 lime, quartered, for garnish
I spent my friend’s fortieth birthday on a beach in Hawaii. On the last day we splurged on beach-side lunch. Thankfully, they delivered an absolutely sublime meal that I have since thought of often. Simply steamed rice was topped with soy- and sesame-soaked cubes of tuna, plenty of vegetables, toasted sesame seeds, and a velvety avocado sauce, making for a light but filling lunch. If you’ve never worked with raw fish before, don’t fret! This dish is easy to create and does not require sushi-making skills. Make the avocado cream last, as it discolors quickly.
► In a small bowl, stir together the tuna, tamari, oil, ginger, and thinly sliced green onion. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.
► To make the rice, in a large pot over high heat, bring the water to a boil. Add the rice, stirring once, and reduce the heat to medium low, keeping the rice at a medium boil. Do not cover the pot. After 30 minutes, taste a spoonful of rice to make sure it is cooked through and no longer al dente. Strain the rice, add the salt, and return the rice to the pot, setting it off the heat and covering it. This will continue steaming the rice slightly and helps keep it fluffy.
► Using a vegetable peeler, make long shavings of carrot and set aside.
► To make the avocado cream, in a blender, puree the avocado, water, miso, lemon juice, honey, and mustard until very smooth, about 30 seconds.
► To compose the bowls, put 1 cup of cooked rice in each bowl and top with equal portions of the tuna, carrot shavings, remaining baton-cut green onions, sesame seeds, and serrano. Dollop equal portions of avocado cream into each bowl, add a slice of lime for squeezing, and serve immediately.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
3 cups water
1½ cups farro
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, torn into halves
2 tablespoons plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled, and roughly chopped
3 ounces shaved pecorino
This grain bowl is reminiscent of risotto, minus the cream. Farro is similar to barley in that it’s a chewy whole grain and takes longer to cook—worth it for the extra fiber. Fragrant garlic oil is made on the side, while the cooked flesh is used as flavor. Topped with toothsome roasted mushrooms and thick shavings of pecorino, this is a simple bowl for a humble meal. If you’d prefer a creamier version, simply stir in a spoonful of nonfat sour cream or even plain yogurt once the grain is fully cooked.
► Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
► In medium pot over high heat, bring the water, farro, and salt to a boil. Once boiling, cover and reduce to a simmer and cook until the farro is tender, 50 to 60 minutes. (Farro is cooked when it no longer squeaks against your teeth but is still slightly chewy.) Drain off any remaining cooking water and set aside, covered, until ready to use.
► On a large baking sheet, put the mushrooms and 2 tablespoons of the oil, tossing to coat evenly. Season to taste with salt and pepper and put in the oven. In a very small baking pan, add the remaining ¼ cup oil and the garlic and put in the oven. Roast both for 30 minutes; the garlic will be cooked through and translucent and the oil will be intensely flavored. The mushrooms will be crispy on the edges and chewy. Remove both from the oven and set aside.
► To compose the bowls, put 1 cup of cooked grains in each bowl and spoon over some garlic oil, tossing to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add a pile of roasted mushrooms, a spoonful of garlic cloves, pecorino, and serve.
BARLEY My childhood favorite, barley is typically available either as a whole grain with the hull intact (hulless barley) or pearled with the outer germ rubbed and removed (a.k.a. hulled or pearled barley). Whole barley does better if you give it a soak before using, both because that speeds up what is certain to be a long cooking process and because it helps make nutrients more available to our digestive systems. Pearled barley has been refined—its outer bran buffed off and so it steams quickly. It’s important to note that whole barley will not absorb liquid as pearled barley will, so you cannot use them interchangeably with the recipes here. Just make sure to adjust cooking time and water as needed.
BULGUR Easy to prepare, bulgur requires no real cooking. You only need to boil water and let it steep into the grain. Use steamed bulgur as a base for a healthy and light meal. Bulgur is the product of wheat berries that have been steamed and dried, then broken down to a coarse grain of varying size. It is a staple in Middle Eastern recipes, so I look to them for kitchen inspiration. Opt for bulgur over white rice or couscous for its higher nutritional qualities.
FARRO Farro is the rock star grain of the group. Little known outside of Italy, farro is just now being grown domestically by a small handful of family farms. Also known as emmer, farro was introduced stateside by restaurants and has since started to find its way to the kitchen of many home cooks. Farro is worth sourcing online or keeping an eye out for at the farmers’ market. Farro is nutty and firm, like barley, but the grain is softer and more refined.
QUINOA A mild-flavored, protein-packed grain, quinoa is widely available and comes in various hues—red, white, and yellow. Quinoa’s wonderful texture is due to its germ (the outer hull), which breaks from the seed. The germ remains as a ring of crunchy texture encasing the soft and tender seed. Quinoa is gluten-free, as it is not a member of the wheat family. We call it a “grain,” but in fact, it is an herbaceous flowering plant.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 cup basmati rice or other white rice
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ cup dried currants
¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill
3 ounces sugar snap peas (about 20 pods), very thinly sliced
1 green onion, very thinly sliced
Zest from 1 medium lime
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon honey
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
Freshly ground black pepper
Here, rice is first steamed and then baked in the oven giving it a kaleidoscope of texture in every bite—chewy, crispy, soft—that is undeniably entrancing. Then the rice is tossed with a bevy of herbs, lime zest, and sweet snap peas, adding lightness to every bite. It’s a delicious meal to make ahead and have ready for pack-and-go lunches, as the rice maintains the texture over time.
► To cook the rice, in a medium pot with a lid, put the rice and add enough water so the rice is covered by 1 inch of water, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the water is absorbed, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, uncover, and set aside for about 5 minutes.
► While rice is cooling, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
► On a baking sheet, put the cooked rice and drizzle evenly with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Do not stir it, as this will break the grain. Roast the rice for 5 minutes. Remove the pan and stir the rice, coating it more evenly with the oil, and return the pan to the oven. Roast for 10 minutes more and remove the pan, setting it aside to cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
► In a large bowl, add the currants, mint, parsley, cilantro, dill, snap peas, green onion, lime zest and juice, honey, salt, and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Once the rice has cooled slightly, add it to the bowl and toss until well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
