At 14,179 feet, Mount Shasta rises like a diamond in a field of coal. Its sphere of influence spans a radius of 125 miles, and its shadow is felt everywhere in the region. This area has much to offer with giant Shasta Lake, the Sacramento River above and below the lake, the McCloud River, and the wonderful Trinity Divide with its dozens of pretty backcountry lakes and several wilderness areas. This is one of the best regions anywhere for outdoor adventures set near quiet wilderness. The most popular destinations are Shasta Lake, the Trinity Alps and their surrounding lakes and streams, Marble Mountain Wilderness, and the Klamath Mountains.
3 DOE FLAT/BUCK LAKE TRAILHEAD
4 DEVILS PUNCHBOWL (VIA DOE FLAT/BUCK LAKE TRAIL)
7 SEIAD VALLEY TO OREGON BORDER (PCT)
8 GRIDER CREEK TO SEIAD VALLEY (PCT)
18 LITTLE NORTH FORK TRAILHEAD
19 HORSE TRAIL RIDGE NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL
20 LITTLE SOUTH FORK LAKE TRAIL
33 CLEAR CREEK TRAILHEAD/MUD CREEK FALLS
34 ETNA SUMMIT TO GRIDER CREEK (PCT)
35 TAYLOR LAKE TRAILHEAD TO HOGAN LAKE
38 CECILVILLE ROAD TO RUSSIAN WILDERNESS (PCT)
39 TRAIL GULCH LAKE/LONG GULCH LAKE LOOP
40 SCOTT MOUNTAIN TO CECILVILLE ROAD (PCT)
41 KANGAROO LAKE TRAILHEAD/CORY PEAK
46 MCCLOUD RIVER WATERFALL TRAIL
50 MUMBO BASIN TO SCOTT MOUNTAIN (PCT)
54 CASTLE CRAGS TO MUMBO BASIN (PCT)
56 ASH CAMP TO CASTLE CRAGS WILDERNESS (PCT)
62 CANYON CREEK LAKES TRAILHEAD
63 SOUTH FORK NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL
65 SWIFT CREEK TRAIL GRANITE LAKE
6.0 mi/1 day
in the Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
The 6.5-mile trip from Youngs Valley down Clear Creek to Youngs Meadow is a beautiful and rewarding trip. The trailhead is at an elevation of 5,400. Youngs Meadow, set at an elevation of 4,500 feet below the western slope of Preston Peak, is very pretty and makes an excellent picnic area and campsite.
The drive to the trailhead is long and circuitous. It’s long just to get to U.S. 199, and from there, you face more than an hour on forest roads. The trailhead is near Sanger Lake, and some camp there the first night in. You start the trip by hiking on a decommissioned Forest Service road; it climbs 0.8 mile to a ridge and the boundary for the Siskiyou Wilderness. It turns to trail, then you descend about 1,000 feet over two miles into Youngs Valley and to Clear Creek. Most continue along Clear Creek until they find a site for a trail lunch, and then head back. But listen up, because from here, the ambitious can take this trip farther—much farther. The Youngs Valley Trail is a great first leg of a multiday trip, ultimately where you head either down Clear Creek to Wilderness Falls, which is a very pretty setting (see the listing in this chapter), or to Rattlesnake Meadows on the slopes of Preston Peak, which requires a short but rugged climb.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive 32 miles to Forest Road 18N07. Turn right and drive five miles to a signed junction for Forest Road 18N07. Continue on Forest Road 18N07 for 10 miles (slow, twisty) toward Sanger Lake. Just before Sanger Lake, bear right on Forest Road 4803 (signed Youngs Valley Trail) and drive one mile to the end of the road and the trailhead.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf; Klamath National Forest, Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District, Happy Camp, 530/493-2243, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
19.0 mi/2 days
in the Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
Preston Peak is the awesome 7,309-foot monolith that rises above forest for miles in all directions. It has the qualities of a much larger mountain, and at the peak, it feels like you’re on top of the world. But a word of caution: Only mountaineers need sign up for this trip. The last mile to reach the summit of Preston Peak is steep, rough, and primitive; it can be scary and dangerous for newcomers to mountaineering. With no marked trail on top, hikers must have the ability to scramble cross-country and recognize any dangerous spots—and then avoid them. That done, you’ll gain the top. It’s by far the highest spot in the region, with fantastic surrounding views. Even Mount Shasta, way off to the southeast, comes clearly into view, along with the famous peaks in the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountain Wilderness.
The best route to climb Preston Peak is to hike Youngs Valley Trail (see details about Youngs Valley Trail in this chapter) to Youngs Meadow (an easy five miles). Then head down the Clear Creek Trail (another easy mile) to a somewhat faint junction with the Rattlesnake Meadow Trail. Turn left on Rattlesnake Meadow Trail, where you start to climb, including two very steep, rough, and primitive miles to the flank of Preston Peak. At the end of Rattlesnake Meadow Trail, hikers must go cross-country for another mile or so to the Preston Peak Summit. The last mile is a scramble. Pick your route very carefully and make no climbing mistakes. Although this is a nontechnical climb, there is one difficult spot that can be dangerous. You will see it: a mix of shale, loose gravel, and boulders, with no discernible route. Take your time and pick your way up one step at a time.
Note: Always stay off this mountain in wet weather, because the route near the top is very slippery. Always avoid routes that cross through loose shale, which can be extremely dangerous. A fall here can kill you.
User Groups: Hikers only. Dogs are permitted but are strongly not recommended above tree line at Preston Peak. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For maps, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers and Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive 32 miles to Forest Road 18N07. Turn right and drive five miles to Forest Road 18N07. Continue on Forest Road 18N07 for 10 (twisty) miles toward Sanger Lake. Just before Sanger Lake, bear right on Forest Road 4803 (signed Youngs Valley Trail) and drive one mile to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District, Happy Camp, 530/493-2243, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath; Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
3.4 mi/2.0 hr
in the Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
Buck Lake is a little emerald jewel surrounded by old-growth firs. It’s set in the heart of a wilderness forest at an elevation of 4,300 feet, a destination that makes for an excellent picnic, trail-style. After parking, the first 0.75 mile of this easy hike is on a closed Forest Service road. After that, a trail is routed through forest and then intersects with Buck Lake Trail. Turn right on Buck Lake Trail and hike 0.1 mile to the lake. We found three primitive campsites near the shore. There are plenty of deer and bears in the area, and the brook trout at the lake are abundant, though small. The area has beautiful meadows and forest, including Douglas, white, and red firs, along with some maples. In the fall, the changing colors of the maples add a pretty touch to the trip. The first time we saw Buck Lake was a Memorial Day weekend, the opening day of trout season here, and there were so many rising brook trout that all the dimples on the lake surface looked like raindrops.
Note: Longtime trail users will remember the days when you would drive to Doe Flat and from there hike a half mile to Buck Lake, or venture down the canyon and take a cutoff trail up to Devils Punchbowl, or even continue down the ravine to Clear Creek and Trout Camp. Those days are long gone. Though most people still refer to this trailhead as the Doe Flat trailhead, the closed road and new trail route you a half mile away from Doe Flat, and the trail now has a different route to the connection with the trail to Devils Punchbowl.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, write to Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers and Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east (past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and cross two bridges to a fork. Turn left at the fork and drive 14 miles to Forest Road 16. Turn left and drive about 15 miles (with slow, twisty climbs as the pavement turns to gravel) to the trailhead. Take Doe Flat trailhead.
Note: The former, faster way to reach this trailhead on Little Jones Creek Road/Jawbone Road (Forest Road 16) has been closed indefinitely by a slide.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
12.2 mi/1.5 days
in the Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
The Punchbowl is a drop-dead beautiful lake, nestled in a glacial cirque with high granite walls towering overhead. The hike includes a steep climb with switchbacks of roughly 1,500 feet over the course of two miles. That aside, this one is paradise found. From the Doe Flat/Buck Lake trailhead, elevation 3,400 feet, the trip starts with a downhill glide of 0.75 mile on a closed Forest Service road. The trail is routed through forest and then intersects with Buck Lake Trail at 1.4 miles (Buck Lake is only 0.1 mile off to the right). Continue ahead and the trail descends gently through forest for another 1.8 miles to the junction with the Devils Punchbowl Trail. Turn right, and the trail climbs, steeply at times, for 1.2 miles to the lake. When you top the ridge, the route crosses Devils Creek and leaves the forest behind, crossing bare granite domes. The trail is marked by cairns. You pass a smaller lake, cross a rise, and then the beautiful, gemlike Devils Punchbowl awaits. The elevation is 4,700 feet. This place is something of a legend. It’s small but pristine, set in a mountain granite bowl, framed by an imposing back wall—a shrine.
Note: The entire region surrounding Devils Punchbowl consists of sheets of bare granite. The few campsites here are merely small, flat sleeping spaces on rock. There is no firewood available, so bring a backpacking stove for cooking. Bring sealable plastic bags to carry out waste. With fresh snow, the trail cairns will be buried and low overcast will cover up landmarks; you need to be an expert with an altimeter, map, and compass to find your way back to the main trail. Guess how we know?
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, write to Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers and Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east (past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and cross two bridges to a fork with South Fork Road. Turn left at the fork and drive 14 miles to Forest Road 16. Turn left and drive about 15 miles (slow, twisty, climbs, pavement turns to gravel) to the trailhead. Take Doe Flat trailhead.
Note: The former, fast way to reach this trailhead on Little Jones Creek Road/Jawbone Road (Forest Road 16) has been closed indefinitely by a slide.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf; Klamath National Forest, Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District, Happy Camp, 530/493-2243, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
16.0 mi/2 days
in the Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
Wilderness Falls is a bubbling torrent of water created by Clear Creek. It crashes down through a narrow cascading chute about 35 feet into a boulder, and then pounds its way down into a foaming pool that’s 100 feet across. If you can handle the cold water, it’s a great swimming hole. Wilderness Falls is one of the great secrets of northwestern California. It’s a true hidden jewel, dramatic and pure, untouched and wild.
The recommended route is to start on Clear Creek National Recreation Trail out of Youngs Valley (see Youngs Valley Trail in this chapter). The trailhead is at an elevation of 5,400. You start the trip by hiking on a decommissioned Forest Service road; it climbs 0.8 mile to a ridge and the boundary for the Siskiyou Wilderness. It turns to trail, then descends over two miles into Youngs Valley, at an elevation of 4,500 feet, and to Clear Creek. From here, you continue another five miles with a gentle descent the rest of the way. There is an excellent campsite about a quarter of a mile upstream from the falls. It’s an easy hike to the waterfall, but the trip back is up all the way and best started very early in the morning, when the temperature is the coolest. There is also a campsite called Trout Camp near the confluence of Doe Creek.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers and Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive 32 miles to Forest Road 18N07. Turn right and drive five miles to Forest Road 18N07. Continue on Forest Road 18N07 for 10 (twisty) miles toward Sanger Lake. Just before Sanger Lake, bear right on Forest Road 4803 (signed Youngs Valley Trail) and drive one mile to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District, Happy Camp, 530/493-2243, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath; Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
13.0 mi/2 days
in Siskiyou Wilderness east of Crescent City
Island Lake is a mountain bowl framed by the back wall of Jedediah Mountain, a wild, primitive area where threatened spotted owls are more common than hikers. The trailhead is now off the road to Doe Flat Road/Forest Road 16 at the Bear Basin area. The hike starts with a walk on a portion of trail (a former road) that is routed down to the South Fork Smith River, where you’ll enter the untouched Siskiyou Wilderness. Enjoy the stream and tank up your water bottles. The trail then rises for about three miles. It tops a ridge and turns around a bend, where little Island Lake comes into view. A great sense of relief will wash over you.
There are two excellent camps at the lake, set in trees near the shore. The trout are eager to bite, but most are very small, dinker-size brook trout. A great afternoon side trip is to hike the rim around the lake, which is most easily done in a counterclockwise direction to the top of Jedediah Mountain—a perfect picnic site and a great lookout.
If you hiked to Island Lake back in the day, you will note that the trailhead has been moved a few miles, lengthening the distance to the lake from four miles to 6.5 miles, but easing the severity of the former climb. The former access road has been closed by a slide. In addition, this trailhead keeps vehicles away from the wilderness; a fungus that is most commonly introduced from tires on vehicles can infect Port Orford cedars.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, write to Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers and Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Devils Punchbowl.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east (past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and cross two bridges to a fork with South Fork Road. Turn left at the fork and drive 14 miles to Forest Road 16. Turn left and drive about 10 miles (slow, twisty, climbs, pavement turns to gravel) to the trailhead.
Note: The trailhead has been moved from its old location. Do not attempt to reach the former trailhead by Jawbone Road, closed indefinitely by a slide.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf; Klamath National Forest, Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District, Happy Camp, 530/493-2243, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
36.0 mi one-way/3 days
in Klamath National Forest from Seiad Valley to the Siskiyou Mountains
The few people you see on this section of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) are through-hikers heading to Canada. It is the northernmost segment of the PCT in California. But it’s a memorable chunk of trail, whether for a day hike or for the whole duration, all the way to Wards Fork Gap, on the edge of the Rogue Wilderness in southern Oregon. The ambitious few will head up from the trailhead to the junction of the Boundary National Recreation Trail, a seven-mile trip one-way. From Seiad Valley, elevation 1,443 feet, the first five miles are a steep climb out of the Klamath River Valley. You climb 4,600 feet to Upper Devils Peak at an elevation of 6,040 feet. This features sensational views to the south of 14,179-foot Mount Shasta.
This hike marks the final steps of the 1,700-mile Pacific Crest Trail in California, an epic journey for all, but always classic, even if only sections are enjoyed. If you decide to attempt the south-to-north route, see the Grider Creek to Seiad Valley (PCT) hike in this chapter.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Seiad Valley.
Directions: From Yreka, take I-5 north to Highway 96. Turn west on Highway 96 and drive approximately 50 miles to Seiad Valley. Continue another mile west on Highway 96 to the trailhead, on the north (right) side. Parking is minimal; park across the highway.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Headquarters, Yreka, 530/842-6131, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
7.0 mi one-way/1 day
in Klamath National Forest, southeast of Happy Camp to the Grider Creek Trailhead
Most hikers use this trailhead to head south into the Marble Mountain Wilderness, not north. For PCT hikers heading south to north, the trail is seven miles one-way, with an additional five miles of road to Seiad Valley on Highway 96. This is an excellent place for PCT hikers to pick up a food stash and dump garbage. You could walk the road, but most try to hitch a ride. The trail here follows Grider Creek, an easy descent northward as the stream pours toward the Klamath River. The only downer is that the last three miles are on a dirt Forest Service road, but for PCT hikers, it’s a sign that the next restaurant is not far off. The area features magnificent stands of virgin timber—a mixed conifer forest of cedar, pine, and fir. A good Forest Service campground (Grider Creek Camp) is available about three miles before reaching Seiad Valley.
To pick up the next trail heading for the Oregon border, see the Seiad Valley to Oregon Border (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are hiking this trail in reverse, see the Etna Summit to Grider Creek (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required. Parking and access are free. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Happy Camp-Oak Knoll Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Seiad Valley.
Directions: From Yreka, take I-5 north to Highway 96. Turn west on Highway 96 and drive approximately 40 miles to Walker Creek/Grider Creek Road (Forest Road 46N64) one mile before Seiad Valley. Turn left on Walker Creek Road and drive about 50 feet (staying to the left as it runs adjacent to the Klamath River) to Grider Creek Road. Turn right and drive two miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Headquarters, Yreka, 530/842-6131, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
29.0 mi/3 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness near Somes Bar
The Cuddihy Lakes basin is one of the prettiest sections of the Marble Mountain Wilderness. It also is home to one of the largest concentrations of bears anywhere in California. This is a great trip, leading out to One Mile Lake and the Cuddihy Lakes. This area is perfect for backpacking, with beauty, lookouts, and good trail access. You’ll see some remnants of past forest fires, but much of the area is a mix of high-country granite and sparse conifers that burned in a mosaic, so the impact is often fleeting and passing.
Monument Lake out of Haypress Meadows trailhead
Park at the trailhead (at 4,500 feet), then begin the first two miles of trail, up and across a fir-covered slope of a small peak (a little butt-kicker of a climb). Then the trail descends into Haypress Meadows, a major junction. Turn right and head up Sandy Ridge, which is a long, steady climb. Plan to top the ridge and then camp at Monument Lake, Meteor Lake, One Mile Lake, or Cuddihy Lakes. The view from Sandy Ridge is a sweeping lookout of the Marble Mountains to the east and the Siskiyous to the west, with mountaintop glimpses of Mount Shasta and the Marble Rim. You can often see elk at Monument Lake and the meadow just beyond the lake.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Ukonom Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Somes Bar.
Directions: From Willow Creek, at the junction of Highways 299 and 96, take Highway 96 north (twisty at first) for 42 miles to Orleans. Continue eight miles to Somes Bar and Salmon River Road. Turn right on Salmon River Road (Highway 93) and drive 100 feet to a sign that says Camp 3/Haypress Trailhead and Forest Road 15N17 (Offield Mountain Road). Turn left and drive 14.6 miles to Forest Road 15N17E. Turn left and drive 1.5 miles to the access road for Haypress trailhead. Turn left and drive one mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Six Rivers National Forest, Orleans/Ukonom Ranger District, Orleans, 530/627-3291, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
34.0 mi/4 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness near Somes Bar
We’ve hiked to hundreds and hundreds of mountain lakes, and Spirit Lake is one of the prettiest we’ve ever seen. It sits at the bottom of a mountain bowl encircled by old-growth trees, with a few campsites set at the side of the lake. Spirit Lake can be the feature destination for a weeklong backpack loop. Start your trek at the Haypress Meadows trailhead, which is routed up to Sandy Ridge. Most hikers will stop for the night at One Mile or the Cuddihy Lakes on the way out, and that is why those two areas get so much use. On the second or third day, continue to Spirit Lake, about 17 miles one-way. Spirit Lake is best visited in June, when the nights are still cold, the people are few, and the area abounds with fish and deer.
The Karuk Tribe considers Spirit Lake a sacred place, and visit as such. The abundance of wildlife can be remarkable. The far side of the lake is a major deer migration route, ospreys make regular trips to pluck trout out of the lake for dinner, and the fishing is quite good, especially early in the summer.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Orleans/Ukonom Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Somes Bar.
Directions: From Willow Creek, at the junction of Highways 299 and 96, take Highway 96 north (twisty at first) for 42 miles to Orleans. Continue eight miles to Somes Bar and Salmon River Road. Turn right on Salmon River Road (Highway 93) and drive 100 feet to a sign that says Camp 3/Haypress Trailhead and Forest Road 15N17 (Offield Mountain Road). Turn left and drive 14.6 miles to Forest Road 15N17E. Turn left and drive 1.5 miles to the access road for Haypress trailhead. Turn left and drive one mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Six Rivers National Forest, Orleans/Ukonom Ranger District, Orleans, 530/627-3291, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
18.0 mi/2 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
This section of the Kelsey Creek Trail offers many miles of beautiful streamside travel. For most hikers on the “Old Kelsey Trail,” as we call it, the Paradise Lake basin is the intended destination. The trailhead for this section is set near the confluence of Kelsey Creek and the Scott River, and from there, the trail follows Kelsey Creek upstream. Wildflowers are abundant in the meadows. After four miles and two creek crossings, you’ll reach Maple Falls, one of the few waterfalls in the region. The trail continues up the canyon, finally rising to intersect with the Pacific Crest Trail, just below Red Rock. From this junction, hikers have many options. The closest lake is secluded Bear Lake, a pretty spot with a nice campsite, but, alas, with some tules and mosquitoes; to reach it from the junction requires a short but steep drop into the basin to the immediate west. For Paradise Lake, actually a small, shallow lake that is meadowing out, turn left on the PCT.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Scott Bar and Grider Valley.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive 16.5 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. Turn right on Scott River Road and drive 16.8 miles to the Scott River Bridge. Cross it and then turn left immediately, following the road for 0.3 mile. Bear right on another dirt road (do not continue to a second bridge) and drive 0.25 mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
4.0 mi/2.75 hr
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
This trail takes you on a climb through forest, where you pop out at the PCT and nearby Paradise Lake at the foot of Kings Castle. The first two miles climb 1,300 feet, with only occasional switchbacks to ease the gradient. The shade is a relief, even on a cool mountain morning, and you pass a mixed forest with hardwoods that transitions into conifers as you rise up, with occasional lush beds of bracken ferns. You then emerge from forest and hit the Pacific Crest Trail. It feels like you are walking through a door into a special world. You turn right for a break at Paradise Lake, a small shallow lake, just five acres, that is slowly filling in this century to a meadow. Kings Castle, a massive outcrop with a vertical face, looms directly above. A small spring, a steady trickle of cold, clean water, is just above the head of the lake in a tiny ravine, a must-know for PCT hikers and as sweet-tasting as anywhere in the world. The lake has a few shaded campsites. This is the shortest hike to a lakeside campsite in the Marble Mountain Wilderness, with many excellent side trips, including climbing Kings Castle (see the following hike).
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Scott Bar and Marble Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 95 miles to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones-Etna. At the stop sign, turn left and drive 0.1 mile (beneath underpass) to the intersection at Highway 3. Turn left and drive 15.4 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. At Scott River Road, turn right and drive 14 miles to Indian Scotty Campground Road/Forest Road 44N45. Turn left to drive over the Scott River Bridge, and continue on Forest Road 44N45 for about five miles to a signed turn for Paradise Lake Trailhead. Bear right, and follow the dirt road for six miles to the parking area.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
7.0 mi/1 day
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
Kings Castle is the awesome crag that towers over Paradise Lake. To claim it, your mission is to ascend 2,500 feet over 3.5 miles, with the last mile or so a faint route, steep and rocky, not marked on maps. Your reward is a world-class view: To the south, you can see 6,990-foot Marble Mountain, a megalith of white, marbleized limestone. Nearby is Black Marble. In the distance is Boulder Peak, 8,220 feet, the highest point in the Marbles. It can feel like a kill-me, eat-me trek, but is short enough to do round-trip in a day. The first section is from the trailhead to Paradise Lake (the previous hike, this chapter). At the Pacific Crest Trail, turn right for a short distance to a spur for adjacent Paradise Lake on your left. From the campground, walk toward the head of the lake and you’ll find a spring with sweet, cold, pure water. Tank up. The route to Kings Castle is right there. Cross that little creek and start on a clear route through vegetation. It emerges in rock, where a faint route arcs around the southern side of the lake and then up a steep canyon. Every step of the way, Kings Castle looms ahead. At times, the trail disappears in rock and the hike becomes an act of faith. Then you’ll see a trail cairn and realize you’re on course after all. A towering escarpment rises up to your left. As you emerge from the canyon, you’ll arrive at a saddle below the final ridge. The final push is up the back of the Castle. En route, you pass the blackened remains of a pine turned into charcoal from a lightning strike. From the top, you can see across the interior of the Marble Mountain Wilderness and to a half dozen significant mountain peaks. Directly across is a full frontal view of Marble Mountain and adjacent Black Marble. Spectacular! Below, Paradise Lake looks like an emerald pond. The trip passed our test: more bears than people.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Scott Bar and Marble Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 95 miles to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones-Etna. At the stop sign, turn left and drive 0.1 mile (beneath underpass) to the intersection at Highway 3. Turn left and drive 15.4 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. At Scott River Road, turn right and drive 14 miles to Indian Scotty Campground Road/Forest Road 44N45. Turn left to drive over the Scott River Bridge, and continue on Forest Road 44N45 for about five miles to a signed turn for Paradise Lake Trailhead. Bear right, and follow the dirt road for six miles to the parking area.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
14.0 mi/2 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
Marble can seem like a gemstone for hikers on this trail. The trek to the Marble Mountain Rim is an off-trail side trip from the Pacific Crest Trail. You end up walking along the top of this wide-topped megalith of marbleized limestone with a variety of shades, white to black, with black marble at the summit. It tops out at 6,990 feet. The trailhead at Lovers Camp, elevation 4,300 feet, is one of the most popular in the wilderness, with the road paved, ideal for packers going by horse into Marble Mountain Wilderness (corrals and a campground are available near the trailhead). The route heads up Canyon Creek, a moderate climb of 1,200 over four miles, past several creeks and a waterfall, and continues on to the junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Turn north on the PCT for a short distance, about 10 minutes, and look for a route on the left. This spur climbs steeply up to Marble Gap, and mountaineers can trek to the Marble Rim. (The late, great Foonsky led our trip here to the rim.) With a topo map, it is not difficult to figure your route along the rim. The views are stunning, sweeping in both directions, with steep drop-offs adding to the quiet drama. The rock itself is unlike anything else in Northern California—a mix of white, black, red, and tan marble, something you’ll never forget. To extend your trip by several days, venture to the Sky High Lakes, Little Elk Lake, Deep Lake, or Rainy Lake.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Scott Bar and Marble Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 95 miles to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones-Etna. At the stop sign, turn left and drive 0.1 mile (beneath underpass) to the intersection at Highway 3. Turn left and drive 15.4 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. At Scott River Road, turn right and drive 14 miles to Indian Scotty Campground Road/Forest Road 44N45 for eight miles to the campground spur on left. Continue a short distance to the end of the road, signed Lovers Camp Trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
13.1 mi/2 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
The Sky High Lakes make for a great overnighter, roughly a 6.5-mile hike each day, or an inspired one-day in-and-outer. From the Lovers Camp trailhead, elevation 4,300 feet, you take the Canyon Creek Trail (the creek is far below you on the left) for four miles with a 550-foot climb to a junction (a short distance past a small waterfall). Turn left (if you instead turn right, you will be routed past the Marble Valley and up to the east foot of Marble Mountain) and the trail is routed through forest and climbs over a sub-ridge, and then descends to beautiful Lower Sky High Lake. Just above is Upper Sky High Lake, connected by a small stream, and nearby is little Frying Pan Lake. Just to the south, a massive rock wall and outcrop provide a gorgeous backdrop. This is one of the prettiest settings in the Marbles.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required only for hikers planning to camp in the wilderness. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Marble Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 95 miles to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones-Etna. At the stop sign, turn left and drive 0.1 mile (beneath underpass) to the intersection at Highway 3. Turn left and drive 15.4 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. At Scott River Road, turn right and drive 14 miles to Indian Scotty Campground Road/Forest Road 44N45 for eight miles to the campground spur on left. Continue a short distance to the end of the road, signed Lovers Camp Trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
13.0 mi/2 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Yreka
Campbell, Cliff, and Summit Lakes are three pretty lakes in the Marble Mountain Wilderness. The trailhead elevation is 4,400 feet. It is 5.5 miles to Campbell Lake, your first destination. You reach Campbell Lake via the Shackleford Trail, close enough for an ambitious day hike. That makes this a popular destination all summer long for those who know about it. The trail is routed up Shackleford Creek to a basin set just below the Pacific Crest Trail. Here you’ll find the series of small mountain lakes.
There is no direct connection to the Pacific Crest Trail. Note that trekkers traveling off-trail, cross-country style, can then create routes to little Gem, Jewel, and Angel Lakes. Trekking is not for everybody, however, which is why this trip rates a 4 out 5 in difficulty. If you want to extend the trip into a loop, you can hike up to the rim of the Pacific Crest Trail, then turn right and go three miles to the Sky High Lakes. Excellent.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required only for hikers planning to camp in the wilderness. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Scott River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Boulder Peak.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive 16.5 miles to Fort Jones and Scott River Road. Turn right on Scott River Road and drive seven miles to Quartz Valley Road. Turn left on Quartz Valley Road and drive about four miles to the sign for Shackleford trailhead and Forest Road 43N21. Turn right and drive 6.5 miles to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
28.0 mi/4 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Etna
The trailhead at Mule Bridge is set alongside the Salmon River; once you’ve tightened your backpack, get ready for a long climb up the river drainage. The trailhead elevation is only 2,800 feet. Afternoons are hot and the climb sticky. The trail follows the Salmon River all the way up to its headwaters, and in the process, you gain nearly 3,500 feet. Plan on climbing for 14 or 15 miles along the river until you reach the higher country where there are many lakeside camps. The trail forks eight miles from the trailhead. The right-hand fork leads to Shelly Meadows and the Pacific Crest Trail.
The main trail continues north for access to Upper Abbotts Camp and many lakes in the upper drainage. This trail ties in with Little North Fork Trail near Hancock Lake. The prettiest glacial-formed lakes in this region are Lake of the Island (12-mile hike), Abbott Lake (13-mile hike), and Lake Ethel (14-mile hike). Even remoter lakes are Wooley Lake, Milne Lake, and Osprey Lake. All of these are hard to reach and require cross-country travel. Several other lakes are in the region, allowing this trek to be extended by several days. The long, hot climb out of Quartz Valley, compared to the steady and shorter climbs from Lovers Camp and Paradise Lake trailhead, is why few use this trailhead.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for campfires and stoves. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Salmon Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Sawyers Bar.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive southwest 28 miles to Etna. Turn west on Etna-Somes Bar Road (which is Main Street in town) and drive 21 miles to Idlewild Campground. As you enter the campground, take the left fork in the road and continue two miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
16.0 mi/2-3 days
in the Marble Mountain Wilderness near Sawyers Bar
In the shadow of so many easier hikes to stellar destinations in the region, this trail is bypassed by most. Your destination options from this trailhead? There are many: Chimney Rock, Clear Lake, Lily Lake, and Chimney Rock Lake. Take your pick. Or devise a route where you hop from one to another. It starts where you face a long grind of a climb to reach the lakes. Like a lot of trails on the edge of the wilderness, this one starts with a long haul out of a river canyon. From the Little North Fork trailhead, start by climbing out toward Chimney Rock, grunting out a rise of about 4,000 feet as you leave the river lowlands and reach the Marble Mountain Wilderness. It’s about an eight-mile trip to Clear Lake, a good first day’s destination. Although you can simply return the next day, most people will take several days to venture deeper into the wilderness, with 13 lakes and 20 miles of stream in the Upper Abbotts Camp and English Peak areas.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for campfires and stoves. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Salmon Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Sawyers Bar.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive southwest 28 miles to Etna at Sawyers Bar Road. Turn right on Sawyers Bar Road and drive about 25 miles to Sawyers Bar. Continue west on the same road for four miles to Little North Fork Road (Forest Road 40N51). Turn right (north) and drive two miles to the trailhead at the end of the road.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
15.0 mi one-way/2 days
in Six Rivers National Forest east of Hoopa
This is one of the lesser-known national recreation trails in the western United States, but it has many excellent features, and, alas, a few negative ones as well. The six-mile trip to Mill Creek Lakes is set in the least-explored western sector of the Trinity Alps. Although some of the region has been burned severely by wildfire, the Mill Creek Lakes area remains untouched, like an island of green, and makes for a good overnighter.
From the trailhead (at 4,800 feet), the grades are gradual, with relatively easy elevation climbs and descents. A majority of the forest along the trail was burned in forest fires. While there are many continuous stretches of burned areas, there are also pockets of greenery that the fire missed and ground-level vegetation is making a good comeback. In all, the fire affects 10 miles of this route. There are also some areas where the trail needs to be brushed near Devils Hole and Lipps Camp.
Note: Do not drink the water available here without first treating it with the best filtration system you can afford.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning on camping. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Tish Tang Point and Trinity Mountain.
Directions: From the Arcata area, take Highway 299 east to Willow Creek and Highway 96. Turn north on Highway 96 and drive about 12 miles into Hoopa Valley to Big Hill Road. Turn right (east) on Big Hill Road and drive 11 miles to the Six Rivers National Forest border (the road becomes Forest Road 8N01). Continue for 4.5 miles (the road becomes Forest Road 10N02) to the Redcap trailhead (once off Hoopa reservation land, stay on the chip-seal road).
Contact: Six Rivers National Forest, Lower Trinity Ranger District, Willow Creek, 530/629-2118, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
13.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness near Cecilville
You have to be a little bit crazy to try this trip, and like my late pal Waylon Jennings said—I miss him every day—“I’ve always been crazy ’cause it’s kept me from going insane.” This is one of the most difficult lakes to reach in California. Yet Little South Fork Lake has two idyllic campsites, excellent swimming and good trout fishing. This route is largely off-trail and requires skirting around a big waterfall, but there’s no better way in—we’ve tried all three different routes. If you want an easy, clearly marked trail, this is not the hike for you. If you want a challenge with a payoff, this is it. Over the years, enough people have taken the challenge to create somewhat of a route to get there.
From the South Fork trailhead, the trip starts out easy enough on a route. Start by hiking four miles along the Salmon River until reaching the Little South Fork Creek. Turn up the trail upstream along Little South Fork Creek. The trail quickly becomes faint and starts to resemble a game trail. The route eventually dead-ends into Little South Fork Creek. (A faint route on the other side of the creek, the north side, climbs through brush and up the canyon, and we came in that way once from the Caribou Lakes; it is like trying to make your way through a spiderweb of brush and should be avoided.) From here, with no apparent route up Little South Fork Creek or out of the canyon, the best route, though still steep and very difficult, is to lateral across the slope on the right side of the stream. It is 1.25 miles upstream to a beautiful, pristine waterfall. Michael Furniss, the renowned hydrologist from Humboldt, named it Crystal Falls.
To get around the waterfall, loop back until you can project a safe route up the slope to the right, and trek with no trail in an arc around and above the waterfall; if you go to the left (which we’ve tried), you’ll add several dreadful hours to the trip scrambling on all fours straight up the slope (plus we got stung by bees in a ground nest we accidentally disturbed). Remember that there is no trail and no marked route; this is a cross-country scramble and very slow going. It’s another 1.5 miles to the lake, which can take hours of scrambling up and across the wooded slope until you emerge from the forest onto granite plates. Ahead is the lake, beautifully set in a rock bowl framed by a high back wall. There are excellent campsites at each end of the lake. When you arrive, you will collapse, believe me, or jump in the lake for a swim.
We hiked into this lake once from Caribou Lakes by climbing the Sawtooth Ridge and dropping down into the basin—the entire route, also off-trail, but that creates a potentially hazardous proposition, with some rock climbing and having rope packs going either up or down. On another trip from Caribou Lakes, we dropped down into Little South Fork Canyon, losing thousands of feet in altitude and in the process getting caught in a brush field like bugs in a spiderweb. Neither of these other two routes is recommended. In fact, the suggested route we detailed is not recommended either. During reviews of the book, rangers have twice said we were crazy to include it and they would never recommend such a thing. They are right, of course. You need to be a little crazy to get membership to the Little South Fork Club. Just like my old pal Waylon.
User Groups: Hikers only. Dogs are permitted but are strongly advised against. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A free wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Thompson Peak.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles past Weed to the exit for Edgewood. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign to Old Highway 99. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive about six miles to Gazelle. Turn left on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive 27 (twisty) miles to Callahan and continue a short distance to Cecilville Road. Turn left (west or right if coming from Yreka) on Cecilville Road and drive 28 miles to Caribou Road/County Road 1E003 (across from East Fork Campground). Turn left (south) on Caribou Road and drive 3.5 miles to a fork. Bear left at the fork and drive 2.5 miles to the South Fork trailhead. Bring detailed maps, not a GPS.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
12.0 mi/2 days or 38.0 mi/5 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness north of Junction City
This hike is a butt-kicker climb to Grizzly Lake, the signature lake in the Trinity Alps. A friend of ours, Bob Winston, calls it a “Kill-me, eat-me hike.” By the time you get here, you might be thinking the same thing. The lake is gorgeous (and we’ll get to that), the trek is just plain hard (we’ll get to that, too), but the surprise is that despite the extreme difficulty there always seem to be folks here in the summer. You only seem to get it to yourself in the fall, when the nights are cold.
Grizzly Lake is set below awesome Thompson Peak (8,863 feet). One of the most beautiful wilderness waterfalls, 80-foot Grizzly Falls, flows at the lake’s cliff outfall. The lake is so pristine against the backdrop of the rising flank of Thompson that you can spend hours just looking at it.
There are two ways to get in. Take your pick: From the China Creek trailhead, a butt-kicking six-mile climb with a 5,000-foot elevation gain (with a 1,500-foot canyon descent included on the way); or from the Hobo Gulch trailhead, a moderate grade over the course of 19 miles to make the lake.
Given a choice, most people take the short, butt-kicker route, then cuss at themselves the whole way in for doing so. There is almost nothing rewarding about it. Most complete the trip with head down, trying to think about something else. Before you race off to this destination, think long and hard about whether you are ready to pay a terrible physical toll to get there. Surprisingly, many do this regardless of the price, and the place gets fairly heavy use. It’s one of the marquee destinations in the north state.
On the other hand, you could take the longer but more gradual climb from the Hobo Gulch trailhead, set deep in the national forest along Backbone Ridge. On this route, Grizzly Lake is 19 miles away. There’s also a fair amount of forest fire damage along the way. So instead of camping along lakes, hikers camp along pretty streams and flats, taking days to reach the promised land at Grizzly Lake. The trail from Hobo Gulch starts by heading straight north about five miles along the North Fork Trinity River to Rattlesnake Camp, climbing very gently. Cross Rattlesnake Creek, and continue another three miles past the Morrison Cabin (from the mining days) and on to Pfeiffer Flat. Here the North Fork Trinity is joined by Grizzly Creek, an attractive backpacking destination. From Pfeiffer Flat, the trail follows Grizzly Creek, rising high toward the Trinity Sawtooth Ridge and requiring an uphill pull to beautiful Grizzly Meadows and then to Grizzly Lake; the final mile is a scramble over a clear hiking route amid rock.
For rock climbers, climbing the lake bowl in a clockwise direction makes for an exciting scramble to Thompson Peak and a perch just below the rock summit; to reach the tip-top of the mountain requires a technical climb, dangerous for most.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Thurston Peaks.
Directions: To reach the China Creek trailhead from Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive about six miles to Gazelle. Turn left on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive 27 miles to Callahan and Cecilville Road. Turn west on Cecilville Road and drive 27 miles to Forest Road 37N24. Turn south and drive 3.8 miles to Forest Road 37N07 (well signed). Take Forest 37N07 and drive six miles to the trailhead.
To reach the Hobo Gulch trailhead from Weaverville, drive 13 miles west on Highway 299 to Helena and East Fork Road. Turn north on East Fork Road (County Road 421) and drive 3.9 miles to Hobo Gulch Road. Turn left on Hobo Gulch Road (Forest Road 34N07Y) and drive 12 miles to the Hobo Gulch trailhead, located at Hobo Gulch Campground at the end of the road.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
on the Klamath River in Klamath National Forest northwest of Yreka
The trail out of the Tree of Heaven Campground provides one of the few streamside trails anywhere along the Klamath River. This is a level, wheelchair-accessible trail that heads downstream along the Klamath and also an interpretive trail on neotropical bird migrations. Visit in fall for berry picking. The Tree of Heaven River access is also a good take-out point for drift boaters and rafters who make the easy all-day run, often with good fishing in the fall from half-pounders, down from Iron Canyon Dam. Note that this trail once extended 2.5 miles to a good fishing spot at the west end of the campground, but the trail is largely overgrown, with poor access; anglers should instead wear waders to get out in the stream a bit and steer well clear of the shoreline brush.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Badger Mountain.
Directions: From Yreka, drive north on I-5 for 10 miles to the Highway 96 exit. Turn west on Highway 96 and drive about five miles. Look for the Tree of Heaven Campground on the left. The trailhead is at the west end of the campground.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Headquarters, Yreka, 530/842-6131, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
1.75 mi/1.0 hr
in Klamath National Forest east of Yreka
Not many people know about Juanita Lake, including many Siskiyou County residents. Once they find it, most will take at least a portion of this easy loop trail around the lake to get a feel for the place. The lake is set in a mixed, sparse conifer forest, though few trees here are large. In the last hour of light during summer, both osprey and bald eagles occasionally make fishing trips to the lake. Juanita Lake is a small lake that provides lakeside camping and fishing for brook trout. The small fishing piers are wheelchair-accessible.
A good side trip is driving on the forest road up to Ball Mountain, about two miles southwest of the lake, for great views of Mount Shasta from the 7,786-foot summit.
User Groups: Hikers and leashed dogs. No mountain bikes or horses. The fishing piers are wheelchair-accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Panther Rock.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 68 miles to the exit for Central Weed/Klamath Falls (Highway 97). Take that exit to the stop sign, turn right and drive 0.5 mile (through town) to the lighted intersection with Highway 97. Bear right (north) on Highway 97 and drive 35 miles to Ball Mountain Road/Little Shasta Road. Turn left and drive two miles to a signed turnoff for Juanita Lake. Turn right and drive 2.7 miles to Forest Road 46N04. Bear right and drive 3.2 miles to the lake and campground. Start near the boat dock.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Goosenest Ranger District, Macdoel, 530/398-4391, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
4.0 mi/2.25 hr
in Klamath National Forest north of Mount Shasta
Deer Mountain is the second in a line of small peaks set on the north side of Mount Shasta that extend all the way to the Medicine Lake wildlands. North from Shasta, the first peak is the Whaleback, at an elevation of 8,528 feet, and the second is Deer Mountain, at 7,006 feet. Starting elevation at the parking area is 6,200 feet, and from here you climb 800 feet through forest consisting of various pines and firs to gain the summit. This route gets very little use, even though it’s easy to reach and the destination is a mountaintop. Most out-of-towners visiting this area are attracted to the trails on Mount Shasta instead, and most locals just plain overlook it. The one exception is in late summer and early fall, when it gets use by hunters. Deer numbers are decent here, but many seem very small, like 90 to 100 pounds. and scant few of the bucks have three-point or better.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Whaleback.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 68 miles to the exit for Central Weed/Klamath Falls (Highway 97). Take that exit to the stop sign, turn right and drive 0.5 mile (through town) to the lighted intersection with Highway 97. Bear right (north) on Highway 97 and drive 16.8 miles to Deer Mountain Road/Forest Road 19 (Forest Road 42N12). Turn right and drive 3.8 miles to Deer Mountain Snowmobile Park and Forest Road 44N23. Turn left on Forest Road 44N23 and drive 2.3 miles. There is no designated trailhead; park off road and hike cross-country to the top of the mountain.
Note that Forest Road 43N69 loops around the base of the mountain; you may also hike from anywhere along that road. Forest Road 43N69 continues through remote forest to Highway 89.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Goosenest Ranger District, Macdoel, 530/398-4391, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
3.0 mi/2.5 hr
in Klamath National Forest north of Mount Shasta
After you pass Mount Shasta on I-5, driving north on Highway 97, look off to your right and you’ll see a large, humplike mountain that sits north of Shasta. It looks like a huge volcanic bump that was born when Shasta was active. That’s because it is. This is the Whaleback, 8,528 feet high. It provides a hike with a payoff view at the top, and a surprise: a large crater. The Whaleback Summit is actually a volcanic cinder cone with a collapsed center. This interesting geology, along with the panorama of Mount Shasta to the south, makes this a first-rate hike. Yet almost nobody tries it, most likely because they don’t realize how near you can drive to the top, or because there is no formal trail. After parking at the gate, you just hike cross-country style up to the rim; it’s steep all the way. The 1.5-mile hike is a scramble only in a few places. In the process, you’ll climb 1,100 feet, from a starting elevation of 7,400 feet, to Whaleback Rim.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Whaleback.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 68 miles to the exit for Central Weed/Klamath Falls (Highway 97). Take that exit to the stop sign, turn right and drive 0.5 mile (through town) to the lighted intersection with Highway 97. Bear right (north) on Highway 97 and drive 15 miles to Deer Mountain Road. Turn right on Deer Mountain Road and drive four miles to Deer Mountain Snowmobile Park. Drive east on Deer Mountain Road/Forest Road 19 (Forest Road 42N12) for three miles to Forest Road 42N24. Turn right on Forest Road 42N24 and drive three miles to a gate. Park and hike in. There is no designated trail; you must hike cross-country from the road. The peak is about 1.5 miles from the gate.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Goosenest Ranger District, Macdoel, 530/398-4391, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
3.4 mi/2.5 hr
on the northwest slope of Mount Shasta
For years, this was a great, easy hike. No more. The first mile of this trail is buried under a flow of mud and debris, the results of a flash flood released upslope from the Whitney Glacier. Enough hikers have traversed it to create a route through and past it. Regardless, there are still short stretches where you have to negotiate rocks, boulders, logs, and deep erosion channels. It takes a mile of scrambling to intersect the former trail. If you feel a bit confused here (there is no such as lost, according to Davy Crockett), get higher, on one of the volcanic crags, and look ahead for the faint trail on the right side of the flow and a small gorge. That’s the way.
The Whitney Falls trail then rises from about 5,600 feet uphill out of the drainage. The trail spans 1.6 miles to an unsigned fork at 6,400 feet. Take the right fork, a spur trail to an overlook at a deep gorge. On the far uphill side is hidden Whitney Falls, a 250-foot waterfall, with its thin, silvery wisp tumbling through a narrow chute in a dramatic ashen gorge. It takes perfect timing during late spring snowmelt to see this waterfall at anything more than a trickle. The view to the north of Shasta Valley is outstanding, highlighted by the series of hummocks and vast volcanic formations. Geologists have identified this as from a catastrophic debris avalanche produced from the ancestral Mount Shasta volcano, roughly 350,000 years ago.
Special notes: If you turn left at the fork instead, you’ll venture through forest, then up through another gutted stream drainage. The trail ends, and mountaineers will have to pass Coquette Falls, and then near the peak at the Bolam Glacier, in order to make the summit. Safety gear and expert climbing skills are required. Stay off the Whitney Glacier. It has a crevasse that can be camouflaged with snow in spring and early summer; it is possible to plunge through the snowbridge and fall deep into the crevasse—it is the Venus flytrap of Mount Shasta.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 68 miles to the exit for Central Weed/Klamath Falls (Highway 97). Take that exit to the stop sign, turn right and drive 0.5 mile (through town) to the lighted intersection with Highway 97. Bear right (north) on Highway 97 and drive 12 miles to Bolam Road (Forest Road 43N21), which is usually unsigned. (If you reach County Road A12 on the left, you have gone 0.25 mile too far.) Turn right on Bolam Road for four miles (you’ll cross railroad tracks) to the end of the road. A high-clearance vehicle is required.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Fifth Season Climbing Report, 530/926-5555; Shasta Mountain Guides, 530/926-3117, www.shastaguides.com; Avalanche Center Climbing Report, 530/926-9613.
5.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest between I-5 and Mount Shasta
Anybody who has cruised I-5 north to Oregon and gawked in astonishment at Mount Shasta has inevitably seen Black Butte right alongside the highway. That’s right, it’s that barren “cinder cone” set between the highway and Mount Shasta, and it can pique a traveler’s curiosity. Technically, it is a dome composed of hornblende andesite, not cinders. The trail is routed right to the top and can answer all of your questions. But you may not like all of the answers. Over the course of 2.5 miles, you’ll climb 1,845 feet—much of it steep, most of it rocky, and in the summer, all of it hot and dry. Shade is nonexistent. There are only two rewards. One is claiming the summit, at 6,325 feet, where you’ll find the foundation of an old U.S. Forest Service lookout and great 360-degree views; the other is that the hike is an excellent warm-up for people who are planning to climb Mount Shasta. (That is, providing you don’t need a week to recover.) This trip is actually best done on a warm summer night under a full moon. From the summit, you’ll also see that the top is a series of volcanic crags, each unique.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required.
Maps: A trail information sheet is available by contacting the Mount Shasta Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta city.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Follow that exit to the stop sign at Lake Street. Turn right and drive one mile east (through town) on Lake Street, and then bear left as it merges with Washington Drive (and becomes Everitt Memorial Highway). Continue on Washington/Everitt Memorial Highway (past the high school on the right) for about two miles, and look for the sign for Spring Hill Plantation (on the right) and Forest Road 41N18 (on the left). Turn left on Forest Road 41N18/Ash Flat (a gravel road), drive about 200 yards, and bear right, continuing on Forest Road 41N18 for 2.5 miles. After the road crosses under the overhead power line, turn left on Forest Road 41N18A (Black Butte Road) and drive 0.75 mile to the trailhead. Parking is limited; be sure to park off the road.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.4 mi/2.75 hr
on the southern slope of Mount Shasta
The hike from Sand Flat to Horse Camp, a distance of 1.7 miles with a climb of 1,000 feet, will give you a good taste of the Mount Shasta experience, and you’re likely to savor the flavors. Many who make this day hike are compelled to return to climb all the way to the top.
Sand Flat provides a shaded parking area to start from, away from all the people in summer at the primary Bunny Flat trailhead. The elevation is 6,800 feet. The trail immediately takes off uphill. The climb is gradual at first, but then it becomes quite steep. At 7,360 feet, it intersects with Bunny Flat Trail and then continues to rise through the forest. Along the way are amazing examples of how avalanches and windstorms have knocked down entire sections of forest. When you reach Horse Camp, at 7,800 feet, nearing timberline, you’ll find many rewards. The first is spring water flowing continuously out of a piped fountain near the Sierra Hut; it’s perhaps the best-tasting water in the world. A solar-powered composting toilet is also available. The second reward is the foreboding view of Red Bank, which forms the mountain rim above Horse Camp. The third is the opportunity to hike up a short way above tree line for the sweeping views to the south of Castle Crags and Lake Siskiyou. After taking the first steps on Summit Trail, you’ll likely yearn to keep going all the way to the very top of this magic mountain. If you wish to hike Summit Trail, see the following hike out of Bunny Flat trailhead.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Follow that exit to the stop sign. Turn right and drive one mile east on Lake Street, and then bear left on Washington Drive (it merges, and then Washington Drive becomes Everitt Memorial Highway). Continue on Washington/Everitt Memorial Highway (past the high school) for 9.7 miles to Sand Flat Road. Turn left and drive 0.4 mile to parking and the trailhead.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Fifth Season Climbing Report, 530/926-5555; Shasta Mountain Guides, 530/926-3117, www.shastaguides.com; Avalanche Center Climbing Report, 530/926-9613.
14 mi/1.5 days
on the southern slope of Mount Shasta in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest
The hike to the top of 14,179-foot Mount Shasta is one of America’s epic treks. Your challenge is to climb 7,229 feet over ice, snow, and rock while trying to suck what little oxygen you can out of the thin air. It may be the greatest adventure in the West that most hikers in good condition have an honest chance of achieving. Timing is everything. Plan your trip for when the wind is down on top, the summit is clear, no thunderstorms, and the route has plenty of snow, which provides an excellent climbing surface (where you wear crampons) and acts as a mortar for holding boulders in place.
Shasta Summit Trail
The trip starts out of Bunny Flat at 6,950 feet, leads through a forest of Shasta red firs, climbs to where the trail intersects with the route out of Sand Flat, then turns right and rises to Horse Camp, at an elevation of 7,800 feet and a distance of 1.8 miles. There’s a hiker’s cabin, called the Sierra Club Hut, on the left, an incredible spring with sweet-tasting water on the right—it’s a must to fill up your water bottles here—and a short walk to environmental toilets to your right. Most people camp one night at Horse Camp and then leave very early the next morning for the summit.
After filling your canteens at the spring, start hiking the Summit Trail. Make your first steps across a series of large stones called Olberman’s Causeway. From here, the trail quickly rises above timberline, gaining 1,000 feet per mile for six miles, and after a short time, it becomes a faint path. One route ventures to your left and is routed, including a span of switchbacks, up to Helen Lake, a flat spot for a trail camp. Another route crosses a sub-ridge to your right and then you are routed up Avalanche Gulch, with Red Bank looming directly overhead.
Expect snow and ice, that’s when the climbing is best, and you will stop and strap your crampons onto your boots. The walking is easy with crampons. The trail climbs up Avalanche Gulch, and some people stop to make trail camps at a flat spot called Helen Lake at 10,440 feet. Hikers not acclimated to high altitudes may begin experiencing some dizziness, but there’s no relief in sight. At this point, the hike gets steeper (about a 35-degree slope), and some give up before reaching Red Bank—a huge, red, volcanic outcrop at about 12,500 feet. In periods of low snow, a narrow and steep rock/ice chute emerges at Red Bank. I prefer this route, though you’ll need your ice ax in order to pull your way through and a slip is certain without crampons; often there is a stream of melting water where you can fill your water bottle. In high snow years, on the other hand, the chute is filled with snow and the climb continues ahead at steep grade. There are two other routes as well: one very steep ascent to your left, another that circles The Thumb to your right, but in the latter, you will pass a crevasse that should not be circumvented without an experienced guide to keep you safe.
When you emerge atop Red Bank, you are nearly 13,000 feet high, at the foot of Misery Hill, so named because it’s a long, slow climb through snow in spring and scree in summer. It’s a myth that a lot of people actually mistake it for the peak—if you were that off base, you’d never make it this far. Once atop Misery Hill, you’ll see the true Shasta Summit, a massive pinnacle of lava that seems to jut straight up into the air. Cross a sun-cupped glacier field to reach the pinnacle and there you will see the trail routed up to the top. With a final push, follow the trail, grabbing rocks to help pull you up and sucking the thin air, and with a few last steps, you’ll be on top, at 14,179 feet. On clear days you can see hundreds of miles in all directions, and the sky is a deeper cobalt blue than you ever imagined. On top, you’ll sign your name in a logbook in an old rusted metal box, then take in the grand wonders surrounding you. It’s a remarkable trip, one that can inspire some people to keep their bodies in good enough shape to make it every year.
About half the people who try to climb Mount Shasta don’t make it. The number one reason is because they are stopped by bad weather. High winds above 12,000 feet are common in May and June. In late summer, typically mid-August through early October, there is a danger from tumbling boulders. Snow acts as a mortar and holds the volcanic landscape together. Most hikers in good condition who start the trip very early and have the proper equipment can summit, especially in July, when the weather and climbing conditions are often best. Early? You should depart from Bunny Flat by 3am, or hike in a day early, set up a base camp at Horse Camp (at tree line), and start no later than 4am. Another strategy that works is to set up a base camp higher on the mountain, at Helen Lake, or in high snow years at the flat spot on Green Butte to climb Green Butte Ridge (it is not passable is low snow years). For equipment, you’ll need a day pack with warm clothes, a windbreaker, two canteens of water, food, and an ice ax and crampons are mandatory. Refill your canteen wherever you find a rivulet of water (it’s occasionally possible at Red Bank); rangers recommend using a water filter.
It’s an absolute must to make an early start. In the hot summer months, towering cumulus clouds sometimes form on Mount Shasta during the afternoon, and by then you’ll want to be making the trip down. If towering cumulonimbus begin forming by noon, intense thunderstorms are possible by midafternoon.
All hikers must pack out their waste. Special waste pack-out bags are available at no charge at the trailhead and at the Mount Shasta Ranger Station in Mount Shasta.
The biggest danger and largest number of injuries on Mount Shasta come not from falling, but from being hit by tumbling boulders. In fact, our former research assistant, Robyn Brewer, was struck in the foot by a boulder in her first attempt at climbing Shasta. She was hit so hard that it knocked her hiking boot off, breaking her foot and requiring an emergency helicopter airlift out for medical treatment. Always keep a good distance between you and your hiking partners, don’t hike in a vertical line, and if a rock comes bouncing down, always shout, “Rock! Rock!” Some guides recommend wearing helmets. By the way, Robyn returned to Mount Shasta the following two years and made it to the top on both trips.
The mountain is best hiked when it still has a good coating of snow and ice, which provide excellent footing with crampons. When the snow and ice melt off in late fall, tromping through the small volcanic rocks is like slogging in mushy sand, and there is the additional problem of boulder falls.
Drink lots of water. In high altitudes, dehydration is a common problem and can result in early exhaustion and extreme vulnerability to mountain sickness.
When you drive into the town of Mount Shasta, at the corner of Lake and Main Street, the main intersection downtown, you’ll see Shasta Mountain Guides on the right and the Fifth Season, which provides rental equipment, on the left.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Take that exit to the stop sign at Lake Street. Turn right and drive one mile east (through town) on Lake Street, and then bear left as it merges with Washington Drive (and becomes Everitt Memorial Highway). Continue on Washington/Everitt Memorial Highway (past the high school on the right) and drive 11.1 miles to Bunny Flat. As you drive in, the trailhead is on the left, next to the restroom.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Fifth Season Climbing Report, 530/926-5555; Shasta Mountain Guides, 530/926-3117, www.shastaguides.com; Avalanche Center Climbing Report, 530/926-9613.
4.0 mi/3.0 hr
from Ski Bowl on the southern slope of Mount Shasta in Mount Shasta Wilderness
This is a great day hike. It’s easy, unique, and with a great payoff with a view perch and trail lunch site that overlooks miles. There is a stellar lookout to the south with Castle Crags, Mount Lassen, and the drop-off in the Sacramento Valley, all prominent. Start at the old Ski Bowl, on the right of the road at the sign for Gray Butte/South Meadows Trail. This trailhead sign may confuse those long familiar with the area. It used to be called Squaw Creek trailhead and Squaw Meadows, but it has been renamed. From the trailhead, head east on a clear trail routed amid volcanic scree, just above tree line. You’ll see a sculpted volcanic valley called The Gate. Some visitors consider this to be the mountain’s sacred portal to the spiritual dimension. Gray Butte looms above to your right (reaching the top at 8,119 feet requires a scramble over sharp-edged volcanic rock; if you wear rings on your fingers, they will scuff the exposed bottom side). It can touch the heart when you arrive at South Gate Meadows and the headwaters of Squaw Valley Creek. This is a pristine meadow that is not in a valley, but rather rises up the slope of Shasta, and cut by a thin streaming cascade. Along the upper reaches, a few flat sites are available for small campsites.
User Groups: Hikers only. Dogs are not advised. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Follow that exit to the stop sign at Lake Street. Turn right and drive one mile east (through town) on Lake Street, and then bear left as it merges with Washington Drive (and becomes Everitt Memorial Highway). Continue on Washington/Everitt Memorial Highway (past the high school on the right) and drive 11.1 miles to Bunny Flat (restroom available), and then continue 2.5 miles (past the entrance spur to Panther Meadows) to the trailhead on the right.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Fifth Season Climbing Report, 530/926-5555; Shasta Mountain Guides, 530/926-3117, www.shastaguides.com; Avalanche Center Climbing Report, 530/926-9613.
4.4 mi/4.0 hr
on the southern slope of Mount Shasta
In the big snow years, this is our favorite trek on Mount Shasta. You have a towering view down into canyons on each side of you and beyond to Castle Crags and miles of wildlands. Yet it is also one of the most overlooked. Green Butte, a huge rock outcrop set at 9,200 feet, is your destination. From Bunny Flat at 6,950 feet, it means a climb of 2,250 feet in a little over two miles. In the big snow years, a climber’s route will be available across the top of the knife-edge ridge, a great route to The Thumb and beyond to the summit.
From the Bunny Flat trailhead, just about everybody hikes to Horse Camp. Instead, there is an unsigned cutoff to the right that climbs through forest and connects to Green Butte Ridge. You end up with a towering view over Lake Siskiyou and beyond to the top of Castle Crags. From here, in winter, many will snowboard back down. Most use split boards. This one is a 10, an unforgettable trek, and though you earn every step, the payoffs are world-class in scope.
In big snow years, this is a great route to summit. As you climb on the ridge, you will tower over Avalanche Gulch to your left, the old Mount Shasta Ski Bowl to your right. It leads up to The Thumb, where you cross above Red Bank and join the main route up Misery Hill.
The route is well protected from spring winds. It can blow 80 mph across Misery Hill and you’ll feel only a light breeze here until you top 10,000 feet.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Take that exit to the stop sign at Lake Street. Turn right and drive one mile east (through town) on Lake Street, and then bear left as it merges with Washington Drive (and becomes Everitt Memorial Highway). Continue on Washington/Everitt Memorial Highway (past the high school on the right) and drive 11.1 miles to Bunny Flat. As you drive in, the trailhead is on the left, next to the restroom.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Fifth Season Climbing Report, 530/926-5555; Shasta Mountain Guides, 530/926-3117, www.shastaguides.com; Avalanche Center Climbing Report, 530/926-9613.
4.2 mi/3.0 hr
on the northeast slope of Mount Shasta
It’s so quiet here that you can practically hear the wildflowers bloom. We’ve hiked the north slope of Shasta out of the Brewer Creek trailhead several times and often not seen another person. The trip makes for a good day hike in the Mount Shasta Wilderness. The trailhead is set near Brewer Creek (at 7,200 feet), hence the name. The drive in is long, and because of that, many prefer Clear Creek trailhead and its views of Mud Creek Falls and Ash Creek Falls to this trailhead.
After a short walk through a section of forest that was selectively logged many years ago, you’ll enter the Shasta Wilderness and be surrounded by old-growth firs, many scraggly from enduring harsh winters and the short growing season. Here the trail climbs more. It’s a steady ascent through forest, with gradual switchbacks as it goes. When you near tree line, at 7,700 feet, the trail turns to the left and begins to lateral across the mountain. It’s 2.1 miles to timberline from the trailhead, and most people hike to this point, then turn back. The trail becomes a route, and at times seems to disappear. You can add a mile or two by climbing a wide, volcanic slope with good footing all the way, and rise to 9,500 feet. This is a great spot for a picnic, provides sweeping views, and may inspire dreams of the day you’ll next climb all the way to the top of Shasta.
Note: Mountaineers who try to climb Shasta from this trailhead have only one good route from the point where the trail meets tree line, which is to head to the right up and over Hotlum-Wintun glaciers. This has become one of the most popular routes up the mountain. It is especially attractive for skiers and boarders since it has a descent of about 7,000 feet off the top of the summit block. Also note that this route is extremely difficult, steep and dangerous. Only mountaineers with guides or considerable experience glacier-trekking should attempt it.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 58 miles to the Highway 89/McCloud-Reno exit. Bear right on Highway 89 and drive nine miles to McCloud, then continue for another 2.8 miles to Pilgrim Creek Road. Turn left on Pilgrim Creek Road and drive 5.3 miles (becomes Forest Road 13) and continue another two miles to Forest Road 19. Continue on Forest Road 19/Military Pass Road for seven miles to Forest Road 42N02. Turn left on 42N02 and drive four miles (signed, stay on 42N02 at junctions) to trailhead parking area. High-clearance vehicles are recommended; four-wheel drive is helpful.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; McCloud Ranger District, 530/964-2184; climbing report 530/926-5555.
4.0 mi/2.5 hr
on the southeast slope of Mount Shasta
A short walk on the remote southeast flank of Mount Shasta can provide entry to a land of enchantment. From Clear Creek Trail, you get a great day hike that features an overlook of deep canyons, views of glaciers, and Mount Shasta’s prettiest waterfall, Mud Creek Falls (and for those with the zest for it, nearby Ash Creek Falls). The drive in is well signed and much closer from Highway 89 than the drive to the distant Brewer Creek trailhead.
At the parking area, the trail starts just to the left of the restroom (many years ago, the trail instead followed an old overgrown jeep road from the upper end of the parking area; that is now reclaimed by a young forest and the going is very slow, where you must pass many downed trees). The trail is routed along a ridge as you climb on an even grade through forest. As you near tree line, you’ll see the edge of a canyon rim to your left. At a break in the trees on your left, look up the canyon, you’ll see the sensational Mud Creek Falls, roughly 125 feet high, directly ahead, though from a distance. This is the payoff for day hikes.
If you want more, you can continue upslope about a mile to a meadow, creek, and campsite that summit hikers use as a base camp. This is a launch point, not an end point. The route here includes an open crossing on the side of the Wintun Glacier, scary for most, where a slip means a long fall. Only mountaineers with guides or considerable experience glacier-trekking should attempt this route to the summit.
There’s another option for those who want to trek the subalpine region of giant Shasta. With a topo map, the ambitious can venture off-trail to find and see nearby Ash Creek Falls. Mud Creek Falls and Ash Creek Falls are best viewed in early summer, when snowmelt is peaking and runoff is high. They are both gorgeous.
This area is rich in natural history. The canyon was carved by a glacier and is still fed with water from the towering, fractured Konwakiton Glacier, which runs the color of volcanic silt. There are several glaciers directly above your vantage point, which feed the canyon’s erosive silt into Mud Creek.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free. A free wilderness permit is required for both day use and overnight use. The Forest Service requires a Summit Pass, available for 3 days for $25, and $30 for the year, for hikers climbing over 10,000 feet in elevation. All climbers are required to pack out waste and must bring a pack-out bag.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Mount Shasta Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 47 miles to the Highway 89/McCloud-Reno exit. Bear right on Highway 89 and drive nine miles to McCloud, then continue for another 2.8 miles to Pilgrim Creek Road. Turn left on Pilgrim Creek Road (Forest Road 13) and drive five miles (paved) to Widow Springs Road (Forest Road 41N15). Turn left and drive about five miles to Forest Road 31. Cross this road (still Forest Road 31) for 0.1 mile to a junction, stay left, and continue 0.5 mile to Forest Road 4N125. Turn left on Forest Road 4N125 and drive 2.2 miles to the parking area and trail. The road is well signed. High-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended. Note: As you drive in near the trailhead, the road becomes steep with long ruts, often with deep dust in late summer that can feel like snow under your tires. Vehicles not suited for it can get stuck.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; McCloud Ranger District, 530/964-2184; climbing report 530/926-5555.
49.0 mi one-way/4 days
from Etna Summit into the Marble Mountain Wilderness west of Etna
The Etna Summit is one of the major access points for the Pacific Crest Trail in Northern California. There is a good, safe parking area (with a nice view), and at an elevation of 5,492 feet, you don’t have to start your hike with a wicked climb that is demanded at so many other PCT trailheads. From Etna Summit, the trail starts by crossing rugged, dry, and often hot terrain that is best dealt with in the morning. You’ll reach Shelly Lake about eight miles in. Note that there is no water available along this route until Shelly Lake. The campground at Shelly Meadows is a good first-night stopover. From there, an excellent second-day destination is the Marble Valley, about another 10 miles north, with camping in the nearby Sky High Lakes Basin. The next 20 miles of trail cross through and out of the Marble Mountains. You’ll pass Marble Mountain (a side trip to the Marble Rim is mandatory), Paradise Lake (many visitors will make camp here), and Kings Castle. As you face the lake, a spring is to the left of the campsites in a small ravine at the head of the lake. Most of the trail here is above tree line, with outstanding lookouts at several points, including a great vista from Marble Rim. Moving onward, the trail follows Big Ridge to Buckhorn Mountain (6,908 feet), continues past Huckleberry Mountain (6,303 feet), and then drops down to the headwaters of Grider Creek, the next major trailhead access point. As you head north, the trail becomes less and less traveled.
To pick up the next trail heading north, see the Grider Creek to Seiad Valley (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the Cecilville Road to Russian Wilderness (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Campfire permits (free) are required for campfires and stoves. Parking and access are free. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Salmon River Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Eaton Peak.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive 28 miles to Etna. Turn west on Etna-Somes Bar Road (called Main Street in town) and drive 10.5 miles to Etna Summit. The parking area is on the left.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
7.4 mi/4.0 hr
from Etna Summit into the Russian Wilderness west of Etna
Taylor Lake, a gorgeous lake at 6,400 elevation, is proof that wilderness-like lakes can be accessible by wheelchair. The trail is made of hard-packed dirt and wheelchair-accessible, though wheelchairs with wide wheels are recommended. For those with boots instead of wheels, it’s about a 10-minute walk to Taylor Lake, a long, narrow lake set on the northern end of the Russian Wilderness. A high back wall completes the setting. Trout fishing is often very good here, and the walk is short enough for hikers to bring along a small raft or float tube.
Just before you reach the foot of Taylor Lake, there is a signed-cutoff (posted on a tree) for Hogan Lake. It picks up a trail on the right side of Taylor Lake. The route climbs a mile to a ridge at 7,000 feet, laterals across the divide, and then sails down the other side 1,000 feet. As you near Hogan, you cross a meadow and the trail disintegrates into a mosaic of faint routes. The lake is nestled at 5,950 feet, emerald green and against a high back wall, with a great campsite. From Hogan, a route to Big Blue Lake (6,800 feet) is available up a drainage that climbs 1,000 feet to the outlet at the rim (no marked trails). This hike is already rated high, an 8, and if you make it to Big Blue, make it a 10.
User Groups: Hikers, wheelchairs, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required for day use. A campfire permit (free) is required for campfires and stoves. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Salmon Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Eaton Peak.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive 28 miles southwest to Etna. Turn west (right) on Etna-Somes Bar Road (called Main Street in town) and drive 10.25 miles (over the top of the Etna Summit and down the other side) to Forest Road 41N18 (a signed access road). Turn left and continue to the trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
6.0 mi/4.0 hr
in the Russian Wilderness west of Etna
Statue Lake earned its name from the unique granite sculptures that frame its back wall. When you first arrive at the small lake, it’s a gorgeous yet solemn sight, one of nature’s mountain temples. No place else looks like this. Some of the granite outcrops look like fingers sculpted with a giant chisel. There is a small primitive campsite on a granite overlook, from which you can often see small brook trout rising to feed in the lake.
After parking at the Music Creek trailhead, start the trip by hiking up a moderate grade and climbing about a mile through burned-out forest to the Pacific Crest Trail. It’s black and burned for more than a mile. At the PCT, turn right and hike for about 1.5 miles, an easy walk in the forest. When you reach a small spring creek, stop and fill your canteens, then leave the trail and head uphill. There is no trail or sign. This is an off-trail trek where you read a topo map and match it up with the landscape. Well worth it. It’s about a 30-minute, cross-country hike to the lake, and the last 10 minutes is over a large field of boulders. Pick your route carefully; some are difficult, some are easy. While much of the region shows evidence of a significant forest fire burn, Statue Lake itself is untouched.
User Groups: Hikers only. Dogs are permitted but not advised because of the route crossing a boulder field. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required for day use. A campfire permit (free) is required for campfires and stoves. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail information sheet can be obtained by contacting the Salmon Ranger District. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Marble Mountain Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Sawyers Bar.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive 28 miles southwest to Etna. Turn west on Etna-Somes Bar Road (called Main Street in town), drive over Etna Summit, and continue down the other side to Forest Road 40N54 (just before the Salmon River Bridge). Turn left on Forest Road 40N54 and drive eight miles to the Music Creek trailhead. (A sign that says Pacific Crest Trail is usually posted. The sign for Music Creek trailhead is repeatedly stolen.)
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
7.0 mi/2 days
in the Russian Wilderness west of Callahan
The Trail Creek “Trail” is no longer an official trail. Outside of us, few have done this. The Forest Service has decommissioned it, which means no trail maintenance is performed. It is now more of a route, one that leads into the Russian Wilderness. We found it a quick, yet very steep, way to gain access to Syphon Lake and the Russian Wilderness. From Trail Creek Campground to the PCT, you are unlikely to see anybody else, and that’s a plus. Because you won’t see a soul, this is also a good route with dogs. The trailhead is a short distance up a gravel road across from Trail Creek Campground (located along Cecilville-Callahan Road). For the first 1.5 miles, the trail ventures steeply up on an old fire road (when you finish, you could always write the book, My Life as a Jeep). It continues to climb, and as you near the crest, you’ll junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Turn left on the PCT, and then just five minutes later, turn at a signed junction to Syphon Lake. This is a good first night’s camp. Russian or Waterdog Lakes are good second-day destinations.
Once you hit the high country, the lakes are very beautiful, especially Russian Lake, which is excellent for swimming. Because the wilderness here is small, it does not take many people hiking in to take up the campsites. Expect occasional cow sightings in midsummer near Syphon Lake. The Russian Wilderness is a place so pristine and so small that it just can’t handle many visitors (and the cows shouldn’t be here either). If you go, walk softly, and treat the fragile area with care.
Note that the trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail off the Cecilville-Callahan Road is by far preferable. This provides a much easier route into the southern portion of the Russian Wilderness, but it will add 10 miles to your round-trip. So it’s your choice: easier and longer, shorter or harder?
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes allowed only outside of the wilderness border. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Deadman Peak and Eaton Peak.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive six miles to Gazelle. Turn left at Gazelle on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive about 20 miles to Callahan. From Callahan on Highway 3, turn west on County Road 402 (Cecilville Road) and drive 17 miles to Trail Creek Campground. The trail has been decommissioned. Across from the campground, a route heads north from a gravel road.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
3.0 mi one-way/1 day
from Cecilville Road west of Callahan to the southern border of the Russian Wilderness
Most hikers use this as a jumping-off spot to the Russian Wilderness. This involves a long, steady climb up to the southern border of the Russian Wilderness. A good destination to the south is the short hike to Hidden Lake or South Fork Lakes. Those venturing onward along the PCT will then enter a complex landscape matrix that includes the headwaters of the Scott, Salmon, and Trinity Rivers, along with the beautiful scenery that such diversity creates. Either way, you start from the bottom of the canyon at the North Fork Scott River, so you’ll face a climb no matter what your destination.
To pick up the next trail heading north (actually, in this case, heading west), see the Etna Summit to Grider Creek (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the Scott Mountain to Cecilville Road (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue east.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required for this section. Parking and access are free. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Deadman Peak and Eaton Peak.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive six miles to Gazelle. Turn left at Gazelle on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive about 20 miles to Callahan. From Callahan, turn west on Cecilville Road (County Road 402, narrow at times) and drive 11.5 miles to the Cecilville Summit. Parking is limited here; a larger parking area is just past Cecilville Summit at the Carter Meadows trailhead (it will add 0.25 mile to your hike).
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
9.1 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness west of Callahan
This is a beautiful weekend trek with two gorgeous lakes as your destinations in the Trinity Alps. It’s a nine-mile round-trip with an elevation gain of roughly 2,400 feet. When you look at the map, you might think it makes more sense to do Long Gulch Lake first, then Trail Gulch, but we have recommended this route for many years and it still works the best.
The Trail Gulch Trail rises along Trail Gulch Creek, steeply at times, but in just 2.25 miles, you’ll arrive at Trail Gulch Lake. That makes it close enough to go in and out in a day, or better yet, you can make it a good weekend overnighter without tremendous strain. Trail Gulch Lake is 14 acres and 21 feet deep. It is set northeast of Deadman Peak (7,741 feet). The fishing at Trail Gulch Lake is often good for small trout. Long Gulch Lake is just another three miles from Trail Gulch Lake, another gorgeous lake nestled in forest and backed on its far side by a towering sloped wall.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Deadman Peak and Billys Peak.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive about six miles to Gazelle. Turn left on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive about 20 miles to Callahan. From Callahan, turn west on County Road 402 (Cecilville Road) and drive 11 miles. Turn left on Forest Road 39N08 and drive 1.5 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
18.0 mi one-way/2 days
from Highway 3 at Scott Mountain Campground
A number of wilderness lakes in the Trinity Alps that can that can be reached by side-trip hikes make this section of the PCT appealing. It draws many for trips of a weekend up to a week. From the camp at Scott Mountain, the trail is routed west for five miles, where the first of a series of lakes is within 0.5 mile of the trail. They include Upper Boulder, East Boulder, Mid Boulder, and Telephone Lakes—all quite pretty and accessible from the main trail. After hiking past Eagle Peak, set at 7,789 feet, you’ll pass additional short cutoffs that are routed to West Boulder, Mavis, and Fox Creek Lakes. Hikers often camp at one of these lakes before the steep drop down to the South Fork Scott River and heading north into the Russian Wilderness.
To pick up the next trail heading north (actually, in this case, heading west), see the Cecilville Road to Russian Wilderness (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the Mumbo Basin to Scott Mountain (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for camping in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. Contact the Weaverville Ranger District for information. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Scott Mountain, Tangle Blue Lake, Billys Peak, and Deadman Peak.
Directions: From Callahan, drive south on Highway 3 about seven miles to the trailhead at Scott Mountain Campground.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.0 mi/2.25 hr
in Klamath National Forest east of Callahan
From the lake, a spur trail rises steeply to the south and quickly intersects the Pacific Crest Trail. Turn left and the PCT rises steeply to the rim overlooking the lake. You climb about 800 feet in 1.5 miles. A nearby scramble to Cory Peak, at 7,737 feet, provides a 360-degree view. This is a great trail-style picnic site. All of Northern California’s prominent mountain peaks are in view here, and immediately below you, to the west, is Kangaroo Lake, like a large sapphire. Backpackers can extend this trip eastward four miles on the Pacific Crest Trail past Robbers Meadow to Bull Lake, a small lake in a remote, sparse setting. Note that the early section of this trail is called the Fen Trail, but most use it to get to the rim above the lake for the big views.
Kangaroo Lake is one of the most easily reached pristine mountain lakes, with a campground, wheelchair-accessible fishing, and PCT trailhead located near the campground. Getting here may feel remote, but the road, Rail Creek Road, is paved all the way. It leads to a parking area set adjacent to the walk-in campground and trailhead for the short walk to the lake. The trailhead is just downhill from the parking area. Some will start at the campground and then intersect it, and make a left turn toward Cory Peak. The lake covers only 21 acres, but often produces large brook trout. In an unsolved conflict, most hikers call this the Kangaroo Lake trailhead, while some Forest Service rangers refer to it as the Fen trailhead.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. Fishing is wheelchair-accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail guide can be obtained by contacting Klamath National Forest. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Scott Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive about six miles to Gazelle. Turn left on Gazelle-Callahan Road and drive over the summit. Continue down the other side of the mountain about five miles to Rail Creek Road. Turn left on Rail Creek Road and drive seven miles to where the road dead-ends, at the parking area for Kangaroo Lake. As you drive up, look for the trail to the right of the campground.
Contact: Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
10.3 mi/5 hr
Parks Creek Trailhead in Shasta-Trinity National Forest west of Mount Shasta
The trip to the top of Mount Eddy is one of the best one-day mountain climbs in California. It requires a round-trip of about 10 miles, with a climb of 2,200 feet. Though most of it is rhythmic, there are two steep sections, including a long stretch of switchbacks to make the summit. Just as you gain the summit, a surreal moment arrives with the view of 14,179-foot Mount Shasta revealed all in that one moment. Giant Shasta looms over everything for a radius of 100 miles. Yet it is the summit of Mount Eddy where you get the best view of giant Shasta. Mount Eddy is directly to the west of Mount Shasta in Siskiyou County, with I-5 running down the valley between them. If you’ve ever cruised I-5, you’ve probably already seen it, even if it barely registered in the shadow of nearby Shasta.
Mount Eddy Trail
The trip starts at a trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail (known locally at the Parks Creek trailhead) with an easy hike to Deadfall Lakes. The walking starts off as easy and rhythmic, where you poke in and out of forest of mostly Douglas fir, with occasional visits from golden-mantled ground squirrels. It stays like this for just under three miles, gaining just 450 feet, when you reach a junction with the Mount Eddy Trail on your left and the Pacific Crest Trail on your right, at the foot of Middle Deadfall Lake (set just over a short rise). Turn left and start to climb. Once you pass Middle Deadfall Lake (7,300 feet), the climb becomes steeper, where you rise up 600 feet past the Upper Deadfall Lakes. The trail skirts the upper lake, nestled against the back face of Mount Eddy, and climbs to the ridge that overlooks the Deadfall Lakes Basin. The long-distance views to the west are breathtaking, and to soak them up, the ridge top makes for a natural rest stop.
From here the trail rises above tree line, and then climbs another 900 feet in less than a mile, with seven switchbacks routed up a barren slope. In the process, there is no hint of the coming view of Mount Shasta. Then, suddenly, just as you gain the top of Mount Eddy, the entire western exposure of Mount Shasta comes into view, a stunning moment with an additional 125 miles of scenic points stretching into the distance. Looking down to the east, you can see how the giant Shasta rises 11,000 feet from the 3,000-foot elevations of the valley below, a euphoric moment.
To turn this into an overnighter, there are several backpacking sites at Middle Deadfall Lake, both at the foot of the lake (popular with locals) and at the far end of the lake. A better choice is to climb up to the Upper Deadfall Lake, where there are a few pristine sites at the far end of the lake, to the left of the Mount Eddy Trail.
There is one continuing problem on this route. For years, and at times it can even seem routine, mountain bikers illegally ride the Pacific Crest Trail here. Bikes are banned from the entire length of the PCT, of course. I bike a lot, hit about 1,000 miles a year, and respect the PCT and wilderness and rules that ban any form of mechanization from the trail. That’s how you step back in time.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Eddy.
Directions: From Redding, drive north on I-5 for 70 miles. Just past Weed, take the Edgewood exit. At the stop sign, turn left and drive through the underpass to another stop sign. Turn right on Old Highway 99 and drive 0.5 mile to Stewart Springs Road. Turn left on Stewart Springs Road and drive to the road’s end, at Stewart Springs Resort. Bear right on Forest Road 17 (Parks Creek Road) and drive nine miles to the Deadfall Lakes parking area at the summit. The trailhead is at the south side of the parking area. Take the Pacific Crest Trail, heading south.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
1.5 mi/2 days
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest west of Mount Shasta
You might be wondering why a 1.5-mile round-trip hike, with a difficulty rating of only 1, is projected as a two-day trip. The reason is the drive to the trailhead. It’s an endless, twisting road that winds its way up the Middle Fork drainage of the Sacramento River, rising up along the east flank of the Trinity Divide. It’s too much driving, for most, to go up and back in a day (and on the way in, keep your tongue in your mouth, because the ride is so jarring that you might bite off the end of it when you hit a big pothole). Once parked, you’ll immediately notice the perfect calm, and then, with a 15-minute walk to the lake (at 6,950 feet), you’ll be furnished with a picture-perfect lakeside campsite. The lake covers 23 acres, provides excellent swimming, fair fishing for small trout (sometimes a bit weedy in late summer), and great side trips.
Side trip: The best side trip is the one-mile hike from Toad Lake to Porcupine Lake, an idyllic, pristine small lake near the PCT. To get there from Toad Lake, first walk to the back end of Toad Lake. Then look for an unsigned route (it looks kind of like a game trail) that is routed up the slope at the back of the lake. That route ventures upslope and, on top, junctions with the Pacific Crest Trail. Turn left and then walk south for 0.25 mile on the PCT to the Porcupine Lake cutoff, on the right. Gorgeous.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes allowed on the Pacific Crest Trail. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Eddy.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta. Follow that exit to the stop sign. At the stop sign, turn left and drive 0.5 mile to Old Stage Road. Turn left on Old Stage Road and drive 0.25 mile to a fork with W. A. Barr Road. Stay to the right at the fork and drive two miles, cross Box Canyon Dam at Lake Siskiyou, and continue around the lake on W. A. Barr Road (which becomes Forest Road 26/South Fork Road). Continue past the turnoff for Lake Siskiyou Camp resort and then continue four miles, cross an unnamed concrete bridge, and look for a dirt road (Forest Road 41N53) on the right (signed Toad Lake/Morgan Meadows). Turn right and drive 0.2 mile to the first fork, bear left (on Forest Road 40N64), and drive 11 miles to the lake trailhead parking area. The road is very rough and twisting, and for the last 0.5 mile, a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. It is a 0.5-mile walk from the parking area to the lake.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
14.0 mi one-way/2 days
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest near Lake Siskiyou west of Mount Shasta
The Sisson-Callahan Trail is something of a legend in the Mount Shasta area. For many years, few made this trek. It is getting revived by locals with an interest in history and unique hikes. This route is long, steep, and hot, climbing 5,000 feet over the course of nine miles to the top of Mount Eddy (at 9,025 feet), then heading down nearly 2,000 feet in two miles to Deadfall Lakes for the nearest campsite. Long ago, it was a well-traveled route up the east flank of Mount Eddy, over the top (through a saddle below the summit), and down to Deadfall Lakes. But with a much easier route available from the other side of Mount Eddy from the Deadfall Lakes trailhead, this trail is passed over. It is now something of a historic landmark.
The Sisson-Callahan Trail starts as an old logging road on the back side of Lake Siskiyou, not far from the mountain bike route that circles the lake (with a jog at the campground). The trail climbs up a canyon past meadows, then gains a ridge. It is not designated as wilderness, but after an hour, you will not see another soul and the land takes on a wilderness feel. The great scenic beauty doesn’t start until you’ve climbed several thousand feet, and by then you’ll care more about how much water is left in your canteen than about the incredible sweeping view of Mount Shasta to the east. As you get near the Trinity Divide, you’ll face some killer switchbacks to reach the Eddy Ridge. As you come to the Eddy crest, look close and you will find an old metal sign for a former route for the Pacific Crest Trail; it might be 50 or 60 years old (and perhaps far older, as best we could gauge).
From here it is mandatory to detour and hike the switchbacks up to the Mount Eddy Summit. After that, it’s a 1,750-foot descent to Middle Deadfall Lake, where you make camp. Your hiking reward comes the next morning, when, after lounging around at the lake, you walk out three nearly level miles to the Park Creek/PCT trailhead, then catch your shuttle ride back to Mount Shasta. All in all, this is a genuine butt-kicker of a trail. Unless you want to do a hike that no one else does, a much better route to the Deadfall Lakes and Mount Eddy is from the Parks Creek trailhead. On the other hand, you will be hiking in shadows of the pioneers that created this route more than a century ago.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. This is very difficult for mountain bikes, yet technically legal for trail if you stay off the PCT on the route out. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta city and Mount Eddy.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta city. Take that exit to the stop sign. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to Old Stage Road. Turn left on Old Stage Road and drive 0.25 mile to a fork with W. A. Barr Road. Stay to the right at the fork and drive two miles to North Shore Road (if you cross the dam at Lake Siskiyou, you have gone too far). Turn right on North Shore (which becomes Forest Road 40N27/Deer Creek Road) and drive four miles, across the bridge on Deer Creek to the next major junction, Forest Road 40N27C. Turn left on Forest Road 40N27C and park along the edge of the road before the ford on the North Fork Sacramento. (The water here is sometimes deeper than it looks; don’t be tempted to drive it.) The Sisson-Callahan Trail (which first appears as a road) starts on the other side of the ford, on an old logging skid road that goes to the right. Within 0.5 mile, it turns into a trail.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.0 mi/2.25 hr
at Castle Lake in Shasta-Trinity National Forest west of Mount Shasta
This is the best site for a photo of Mount Shasta. If you want a calendar-quality photograph, trek to Heart Lake. Then scramble up the back wall and you’ll get a breathtaking view of Mount Shasta with this heart-shaped alpine pond in the foreground. (Also note that the best drive-to spot anywhere for photographs of Mount Shasta is on Castle Lake Road at a turnout about one mile downhill from the Castle Lake parking area.) For years, this route crossed a section of private property, but the local Siskiyou Land Trust helped arrange the purchase of it in 2019 and the route is protected forever.
To start, at the parking area for pretty Castle Lake, look for the trailhead on the left side of the lake. You will cross the outlet stream. The trail then rises up along the slope just left of the lake. Below to your right is Castle Lake, a pretty sight that’s set in a rock bowl with a high back wall. The trail rises up, steep in a few spots, to a saddle at 5,900 feet. At the saddle, bear uphill to the right on the faint trail. If you have the ability to envision wild landscapes, look for the wall and terrace above you, a bit to the right. The hike then becomes an easy scramble. Keep an eye out for faint routes and rock cairns that lead the way to the lake. It is nestled over a lip at 6,050 feet, tucked away in a pocket. Because the lake is small, the water warms up by midsummer, making it great for wading, a quick dip or short swims. The view is a real stunner.
The tale of Castle Lake, set at an elevation of 5,450 feet, is that the water is like none other in the world, which has led some people to jump into the lake for complete renewal. In reality, the water is so pure, containing few nutrients of any kind, that UC Davis has a water-sampling station here in an ongoing comparison study with Lake Tahoe.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Not suitable for horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access is free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Castle Crags Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mount Shasta city.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta city. Follow that exit to the stop sign. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to Old Stage Road. Turn left on Old Stage Road and drive 0.25 mile to a fork with W. A. Barr Road. Stay to the right at the fork and drive two miles, cross Box Canyon Dam at Lake Siskiyou, and continue 0.5 mile to Castle Lake Road. Turn left and drive 7.5 miles to the parking area at the end of the road at Castle Lake. The trailhead begins on the eastern end of the parking lot.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.8 mi/2.0 hr
at Fowler’s Camp in Shasta-Trinity National Forest east of McCloud
Middle Falls on the McCloud River is one of the prettiest waterfalls in Northern California. After a photo of it appeared on the cover of Sunset in 2019, it has become one of the most popular go-to spots in the north state. It is a wide and tall curtain-like cascade of water that pours over a 50-foot cliff into a deep pool in a rock bowl. A spur from a paved road leads to an overlook, but a better trip is to hike the McCloud River Waterfall Trail, where you not only get a better view from the plunge pool, but see three waterfalls in the process of a 3.8-mile round-trip. Start at the parking area for Lower Falls. Lower Falls is a chute-type waterfall, visible with a short walk from the paved parking area. The trail starts down a rock staircase on the left and then picks up as a paved pathway. You skirt above the McCloud River to your right, pass Fowler’s Campground on your left, and then come to a junction with the dirt Middle Falls Trail. The trail is routed into forest, with the gorgeous river off to your right for 0.8 mile. You’ll round a bend, probably hearing the waterfall before you see it, and then suddenly, there it is, this wide sheet. It’s something like a miniature Niagara Falls. The trail runs near a boulder field on the outer reaches of the plunge pool. On summer weekends, teenagers climb to the rim above the falls, then plunge 50 feet into the pool like human missiles. It’s a dangerous venture that we don’t recommend. A friend tried it and broke his leg.
Middle Falls Trail
The trail then cuts to your left and switchbacks up to the rim overlooking Middle Falls. Though not signed, the route is clear extending upstream to staircase-like Upper Falls. The trail runs near the brink of the falls, where water shoots past. It is also possible to drive to a parking area near the brink of the falls, reducing the hike to about 50 yards. A restroom is available at the parking area. There is one frustrating element. Because the falls have become easy to reach with a paved service road, you get the bad with the good—visitors litter this spot, or worse, they discard cigarette butts on the trail. We try to reverse this violation of nature by packing out any trash that we see.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. The paved path from Lower Falls to Middle Falls is wheelchair-accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for McCloud.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 47 miles to the Highway 89/McCloud-Reno exit. Bear right on Highway 89 and drive nine miles to McCloud. Continue southeast on Highway 89 for five miles to the sign for Fowler’s Campground and Forest Road 39N28. Turn right and drive one mile to a fork.
To reach Lower Falls: At the fork, turn right and drive to the parking area and overlook.
To reach Middle Falls Trailhead: Bear left at the fork for Fowler’s Campground, drive through the campground to the restroom, and park. The trailhead is across the road from the restroom.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, McCloud Ranger District, McCloud, 530/964-2184, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
18.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness northwest of Trinity Lake
The Caribou Lakes Basin provides the classic Trinity Alps scene: three high-mountain lakes, beautiful and serene, with the back wall of the Sawtooth Ridge casting a monumental backdrop on one side, and on the other side, a drop-off and great views of a series of mountain peaks and ridgelines. Sunsets are absolutely remarkable when viewed from here. The centerpiece is Caribou Lake, the largest lake in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. Because it’s a nine-mile hike to the Caribou Lakes Basin, this often makes for a first night’s camp for weeklong treks into this section of the Trinity Alps Wilderness.
The trail starts at the bottom of the Salmon River, however, and like all trails that begin at the bottom of canyons, it means you set out with a terrible climb that never seems to end, especially on hot summer afternoons. Plan on drinking a full canteen of water, and be certain not to miss the natural spring near the crest, just off to the right (look for the spur-like footpath that leads to it). After reaching the crest, the trail travels counterclockwise around the mountain for several hours en route, then drops into the Caribou Lakes Basin. Ignore your urge to stop at the first lake, because the best campsites, swimming, and views are from last lake of the circuit, Caribou Lake. Because this is a popular destination, fishing is often poor.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Horses are permitted but not recommended. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for camping.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Klamath National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Caribou Lakes.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 3 north past Trinity Lake and continue to Coffee Creek Road/County Road 104 (near the Coffee Creek Ranger Station). Turn left and drive 17 miles to the trailhead at the end of the road at Big Flat Campground.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; Klamath National Forest, Salmon/Scott River Ranger District, Fort Jones, 530/468-5351, www.fs.usda.gov/klamath.
12.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness northwest of Trinity Lake
Union Lake is a blue gem nestled in a granite basin below sloped alpine granite Red Rock Mountain. The hike in and out is a good weekend affair, but most visitors are backpackers who are using the camp at the lake as a first-day destination for a multiday trip. It’s one of several good trailheads on (or near) Coffee Creek Road. The trail starts near an old sawmill along Coffee Creek, heads south (to the left), and in less than a mile starts the climb adjacent to Union Creek (on your right). Like most hikes that start at a streambed, you pay for your pleasure, going up, not down. After about two miles, the trail crosses Union Creek and continues on for a few miles, now with the stream on the left. Most of the walk is in forest with good shade. You’ll pass a trail junction for Bullards Basin, and about 0.5 mile later, turn right on the cutoff trail to Union Lake. The lake is long and shallow, with good swimming in summer. With Union Lake as a base camp, other lakes within range by day hikes are Landers and Foster Lakes.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Caribou Lakes.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 3 north past Trinity Lake and continue to Coffee Creek Road/County Road 104 (near the Coffee Creek Ranger Station). Turn left and drive about 10 miles to the trailhead, on the left.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
10.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness south of Callahan
The five-mile hike up to Big Bear Lake, a large lake by wilderness standards, beautiful by anybody’s standards, can make for a weekend backpack trip. The hike is steep, with little shade. The trail ends at the lake, so if the lakeside campsites are already taken when you arrive, you’re out of luck for a quality place to camp. The trailhead is easy to reach just off Highway 3 north of Trinity Lake. The route is simple but not easy. It follows Bear Creek for the entire route, with one stream crossing, and climbs all the way. The trail is steep and beautiful. Once you reach the lake, a bonus is the side trip to the Wee Bear Lakes. From the outlet of Big Bear, take the easterly ridge, which takes about a mile of scrambling cross-country to reach the basin with the Wee Bears, as we call them. Big Bear has become popular in peak summer.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Horses are allowed but not recommended. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp in the wilderness.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Tangle Blue Lake.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 to Yreka and the exit for Highway 3/Fort Jones. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left, and drive a short distance to the lighted intersection. Turn left on Highway 3 and drive about 40 miles to Callahan. Continue south on Highway 3 for about 13 miles to Bear Creek Loop Road. Turn right and drive a short distance (on an unpaved road) to the signed trailhead (located near the Bear Creek road crossing).
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
35.0 mi one-way/4 days
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest from Gumboot trailhead to Scott Mountain
This section of the PCT starts at a popular trailhead and quickly jumps northward into remote, beautiful country. The first highlight, only a mile up the trail, is the view below, to the left of secluded Picayune Lake (there are no trails to it). The PCT then heads on, passing little yet pristine Porcupine Lake (you don’t see it from the trail, but access is easy from the PCT on a short spur trail). The trail then heads over the rim and skirts below Middle Deadfall Lake (just over the rise to your right), a popular site for easy backpack trips (plan on company). From Deadfall Lakes, the trail continues as an easy jaunt to the Parks Creek trailhead and crosses a paved road. It then eventually descends and curves around the headwaters of the Trinity River, then climbs back up Chilcoot Pass and past Bull Lake. No more people. From here, it’s a 10-mile pull to the Scott Mountain Summit trailhead (see the Cecilville Road to Russian Wilderness (PCT) hike in this chapter).
If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the Castle Crags to Mumbo Basin (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Mumbo Basin, South China Mountain, and Scott Mountain.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to the exit for Central Mount Shasta city. Follow that exit to the stop sign. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to Old Stage Road. Turn left on Old Stage Road and drive 0.25 mile to a fork with W. A. Barr Road. Stay to the right at the fork and drive two miles, cross Box Canyon Dam at Lake Siskiyou, and continue around the lake on W. A. Barr Road (which becomes Forest Road 26/South Fork Road). Continue four miles past the Lake Siskiyou Camp resort and continue up the canyon for 12.5 miles to Gumboot Lake Road. Bear right, staying on Forest Road 26, and continue 2.5 miles to the ridge and the parking area and trailhead.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
1.5 mi/1.5 hr
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest west of Mount Shasta
This is an off-trail trek for people who like to scramble to ridges for views. If you must always have a trail to hike on, well, this trip is not for you. But if you don’t mind a little cross-country scramble to a mountain rim, then a short cutoff to a peak with spectacular views of Gumboot Lake and Mount Shasta beyond, sign up for this hike.
The trip starts at Gumboot Lake (6,050 feet elevation), a pretty lake in the Trinity Divide. As you face the lake, look for an anglers’ trail on the right. It leads in a half circle around the lake. At the back of the lake, break off to the right of the trail and start climbing the slope, where you head up toward the ridge that is a backdrop for the basin. A little less than halfway to the top, you’ll pass Little Gumboot Lake and after that, you will scramble your way to the ridge, where you’ll intersect with the Pacific Crest Trail. If you are comfortable off-trail, the difficulty is a 3; if not, a 5. Head to the left for a short distance, then break off the trail again, this time to the left, where you head on the mountain spine toward the peak that towers over Gumboot Lake, with Mount Shasta as the backdrop off to the east. This is Gumboot Overlook Crag, your destination. The world may not be perfect, but from this lookout, it comes close.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs only. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mumbo Basin.
Directions: From I-5 at Mount Shasta city, take the Central Mount Shasta exit. At the stop sign, turn west and drive 0.5 mile to Old Stage Road. Turn left on Old Stage Road and drive 0.25 mile to a fork with W. A. Barr Road. Stay to the right at the fork and drive two miles, cross Box Canyon Dam at Lake Siskiyou, and continue around the lake on W. A. Barr Road (which becomes Forest Road 26/South Fork Road). Continue four miles past the Lake Siskiyou Camp resort and continue up the canyon to Gumboot Lake Road (Forest Road 40N37). Bear left on Gumboot Lake Road and drive 0.5 mile to the parking area near the shore of the lake.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
5.0 mi/4.0 hr
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest southwest of Mount Shasta
Tamarack Lake is a beautiful alpine lake and a place of remarkable serenity so pretty that it can feel sacred. Set high in the Trinity Divide at 6,000 feet, this jewel sits nestled in a high basin and backed by a mountain wall. The route in is on an old jeep road. From the trailhead at 5,232 feet, you are routed south up to a sub-ridge at 5,600 feet, then past a meadow. At the first of two smaller lakes, the Twin Lakes, bear left past both lakes. The route then climbs another short ridge to arrive at Tamarack Lake at 5,962 feet. From the back (southern) side of Tamarack, there is a great view of Grey Rocks, a series of dark, craggy peaks. Hit it right, with nobody else around, and this place will have you thanking a higher power for the privilege of breathing the air here. This is where my lifetime friend John Reginato, a north state legend voted into the California Outdoors Hall of Fame, told me he wanted his ashes scattered; his family chose otherwise.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Not suitable for horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Chicken Hawk Hill.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for about 50 miles to the exit for Castella/Castle Crags State Park. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left and drive west on Castle Creek Road. Continue past the park (the road becomes Forest Road 25/Whalen Road) and continue 12.5 miles on to Forest Road 38N17 (Tamarack Road). Turn left on Forest Road 38N17 and drive about three miles (near the second crossing of Twin Lakes Creek) to a very rough jeep road on your right. The jeep road is the trailhead. Park on the shoulder in the vicinity; do not block the road. Note: A handful of off-road drivers with specialized vehicles occasionally drive the jeep road to Tamarack Lake.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mount Shasta Ranger District, Mount Shasta, 530/926-4511, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
2.3 mi/1.75 hr
in Castle Crags State Park south of Mount Shasta
Castle Crags State Park features a series of huge granite spires that tower over the Sacramento River Canyon, the kind of sight that can take your breath away the first time you see it from I-5. That sight inspires a lot of people to take one of the hikes at the park, and while most don’t have the time, energy, or body conditioning to complete Castle Crags Trail, Root Creek Trail is a good second choice.
As you drive up the access road, look for the signed trailhead to the left, just as you arrive at the parking area. The elevation is 2,500 feet at the trailhead. Start at this trailhead, which is signed for Castle Crags Trail, and walk 0.25 mile to a trail junction. Turn right on Root Creek Trail. From here, the trail is routed through a thick, cool forest, an easy walk that most visitors overlook. It continues to Root Creek, a pretty, babbling stream. You’ll eventually see some vintage pipes, valves, and infrastructure from when this was the water intake for a small settlement down the canyon below. Those with canyoneering skills should trek upstream; on the right side of the stream, look for a series of small pool-and-drop waterfalls that few know about.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A trail map can be obtained for a fee by contacting Castle Crags State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Dunsmuir.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 46 miles to the exit for Castella/Castle Crags State Park. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left and drive west on Castle Creek Road. Continue (past a gas station and store on the left) for 0.25 mile to the park entrance on the right. Turn right and drive to the kiosk. Just past the kiosk, bear right and drive two miles (past the campground) to the parking area for Vista Point. From the parking area, walk a short distance west down the entrance road to the signed trailhead on the north side (right side, when walking back).
Contact: Castle Crags State Park, Castella, 530/235-2684, www.parks.ca.gov.
25.0 mi one-way/2 days
from Castle Crags State Park west into Shasta-Trinity National Forest
This is a key juncture for the PCT, where the trail climbs out of a river canyon and back to high ridgelines. It’s in a classic region, the Trinity Divide, known for lakes sculpted in granite and sweeping views of Mount Shasta. From the start, the trail runs beneath the spires of Castle Crags, a setting that can astonish newcomers. From the Sacramento River at Castle Crags, at an elevation of 2,000 feet, the trail laterals up the north side of Castle Creek Canyon, rising just below the base of the awesome crags. In wet years, you will pass beautiful Burstarse Falls on the right. The trail finally hits the rim at the back of Castle Ridge. Then it follows the rim in a half circle to the west to the Seven Lakes Basin and beyond to the Mumbo Basin and the Gumboot Lake trailhead. The final five miles of this segment pass by a dozen pristine mountain lakes, but most are well off the trail.
To continue north on the PCT, see the Mumbo Basin to Scott Mountain (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the Ash Camp to Castle Crags Wilderness (PCT) hike in this chapter to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle if you drive through the park entrance. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: A trail map can be obtained for a fee by contacting Castle Crags State Park. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Dunsmuir, Seven Lakes Basin, and Mumbo Basin.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 46 miles to the exit for Castella/Castle Crags State Park. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left and drive west on Castle Creek Road. Continue (past a gas station and store on the left) for 0.25 mile to the park entrance on the right. Turn right and drive to the kiosk. Just past the kiosk, bear right and drive two miles (past the campground) to the parking area for Vista Point. From the parking area, walk a short distance west down the entrance road to the signed trailhead on the north side (right side, when walking back).
Contact: Castle Crags State Park, Castella, 530/235-2684, www.parks.ca.gov.
6.5 mi/4.0 hr
in Castle Crags State Park south of Mount Shasta
From Vista Point in Castle Crags State Park, hikers can gaze up at the fantastic crags and spot Castle Dome (at 4,966 feet), the leading spire on the crags’ ridge. This high, rounded, missile-shaped piece of rock is your destination on Castle Crags Trail. If you’re out of shape, be warned: This climb is a butt-kicker, where you climb all the way, often like a workout on a Stairmaster, until you reach the ridge.
As you drive up to the parking area, you will see the signed trailhead on your left (just before the parking lot). The elevation is 2,500 feet. Start by taking Castle Crags Trail for 0.25 mile; when you reach a three-trail junction, continue ahead on the Castle Crags Trail. Here the trail launches off, rising through a thick forest. It climbs steeply at times before eventually turning to the right. It emerges from the forest. Once above tree line, the views of the Sacramento River Canyon far below get better with each rising step. In spring, snow and ice fields are common this high. The trail goes onward, always climbing, and eventually you will reach a saddle at the foot of Castle Dome, where a few trees have somehow gained toeholds (you cannot climb Castle Dome without ropes and high-level rock-climbing skills). Continue on, the best is just ahead. The trail wends its way into the ridge interior of the crags. To your right, you can scramble off-trail up to a notch, where you get a divine perch to gaze north at Mount Shasta. You don’t actually climb the dome, but rather this perch in the notch for a view. It will be a moment you’ll prize forever.
The views and photographs are eye-popping, making it a must-do for those who rate their hikes based on the lookouts. However, not all of the trip is pristine; unfortunately, highway noise emerges from the canyon, as well as that of the inevitable freight train. Once you gain the interior of the near the summit rim, there isn’t a hint of extraneous noise.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A trail map can be obtained for a fee by contacting Castle Crags State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Dunsmuir.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 46 miles to the exit for Castella/Castle Crags State Park. Take that exit to the stop sign, turn left and drive west on Castle Creek Road. Continue (past a gas station and store on the left) for 0.25 mile to the park entrance on the right. Turn right and drive to the kiosk. Just past the kiosk, bear right and drive two miles (past the campground) to the parking area for Vista Point. From the parking area, walk a short distance west down the entrance road to the signed trailhead on the north side (right side, when walking back).
Contact: Castle Crags State Park, Castella, 530/235-2684, www.parks.ca.gov.
30.0 mi one-way/2 days
from Ash Camp on the McCloud River west into Castle Crags State Park
Of the hundreds of rivers along the Pacific Crest Trail, the McCloud River is one of the most prized. Yet this segment of the PCT is largely high above the river, not right next to it, and except for one spot, you have to scramble down the canyon on anglers’ trails to get to water. The starting point for this segment is right alongside the lush McCloud River at Ash Camp, set at about 3,000 feet (note that the road in from McCloud to this access point has been blocked by a landslide, and most PCT hikers now continue to Castella for supplies and to pick up food drops). From Ash Camp, the trail is routed downstream above the McCloud River for 2.5 miles, then is routed away from it. Eventually you cross Squaw Valley Creek (gorgeous, be sure to fill your water bottles) and then climb steeply to top Girard Ridge (at 4,500 feet), a long and dry climb. But when you top the final ridge above the Sacramento River Canyon, Mount Shasta, Black Butte, and Castle Crags suddenly emerge into view. After traversing the ridge for a few miles, the trail suddenly drops and cascades down to the Sacramento River Canyon at Soda Creek. Your toes will be jamming into your boots as you head downhill. At the river you might stop to soak your feet before picking up and heading west to start the climb into Castle Crags State Park. A small store, bar, and resupply point is nearby in Castella at Ammirati’s.
To continue north on the PCT, see the Castle Crags to Mumbo Basin (PCT) hike in this chapter. If you are walking this trail in reverse, see the McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park to Ash Camp (PCT) hike, in the Lassen and Modoc chapter, to continue south.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Wilderness permits are required only in Castle Crags Wilderness. A single permit is required to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Contact the national forest, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), or national park office at your point of entry for a combined permit that is good for traveling through multiple-permit areas during your dates of travel.
Maps: For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Shoeinhorse Mountain, Yellowjacket Mountain, and Dunsmuir.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 47 miles to the Highway 89/McCloud-Reno exit. Bear right on Highway 89 and drive nine miles to McCloud and Squaw Valley Road. Turn right on Squaw Valley Road, and drive about five miles (Squaw Valley Road becomes Forest Road 11/Hawkins Creek Road). Continue on Forest Road 11, keeping right past the McCloud boat ramp, and continue over the McCloud Dam. Turn right (still Forest Road 11) and drive down the canyon for one mile. At the turnoff for Ash Camp, bear right and drive a short distance to the parking area.
Note: A slide has blocked the access road to Ash Camp; it’s unlikely to be re-opened before 2022.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, McCloud Ranger District, McCloud, 530/964-2184, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
5.0 mi/2.5 hr
at Nature Conservancy on the McCloud River south of McCloud
Have you ever yearned for a place where old trees are left standing, deer and bobcats roam without fear, and a crystal-perfect river flows free in an untouched canyon? The McCloud River Preserve is such a place, and because it’s managed by the Nature Conservancy, it will always remain that way. Although the lower McCloud River is best known for its fly-fishing for trout, there’s an excellent hiking trail that runs alongside the river that spans 2.5 miles from the parking area on downstream. After parking, the trail is routed along the river, with a rocky path for 100 yards, and then ventures into forest and emerges at a cabin managed for the McCloud River Preserve for the Nature Conservancy. The trail then runs along the river, with one climb and drop, for 2.25 miles. A highlight, about two miles in, is where the river plunges into a series of deep holes and gorges. Few go past this point. At the end of the trail, the river is blocked by a yellow nylon rope, with some poison oak in the vicinity here, to indicate the end of the property owned by the Nature Conservancy.
If you camp at nearby Ah-Di-Na Campground, another trail runs upstream along the McCloud River, but does not connect to this featured stretch. The McCloud Nature Trail starts a full mile downstream by road from Ah-Di-Na.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free. If you fish, access is limited to no more than 10 rods at a time, the use of artificials with single barbless hooks, and catch-and-release only.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Lake McCloud.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north for 47 miles to the Highway 89/McCloud-Reno exit. Bear right on Highway 89 and drive nine miles to McCloud at Squaw Valley Road. Turn right on Squaw Valley Road and drive 11.5 miles (at five miles, the road passes from Siskiyou County into Shasta County and becomes Forest Road 11. It then crosses a cattle guard and continues to McCloud Reservoir. At the reservoir, turn right and continue) to Battle Creek Cove and Forest Road 38N53/Ah-Di-Na Road (a dirt road) on the right. Turn right and drive seven miles (dusty, often bumpy, continue past Ah-Di-Na Campground) to the road’s end at Fisher Creek and trailhead. The Nature Conservancy boundary is 0.5 mile downstream.
Contact: McCloud River Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, 415-777-0487, www.nature.org.
24.0 mi/3 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness east of Willow Creek
This route is a little-used rarity in the Trinity Alps Wilderness: a trail that features small streams, not high-mountain lakes. In addition, there is damage from forest fires in the area. But if you want to be by yourself, this is the place. The highlights are the headwaters of the New River (a tributary to the Trinity River), the history of the area, and Mary Blaine Meadow.
The trail starts right along the New River, the site of one of California’s last runs of summer steelhead. You’ll hike about three miles before the junction with the Slide Creek Trail. Slide Creek Trail is 9.5 miles and passes Mary Blaine Meadow, the final destination of this hike (just a half mile before Slide Creek Trail ends at Salmon Summit Trail). The meadow is set below Mary Blaine Mountain and, to the north, Dees Peak. The whole region is cut with small streams in crevices and canyons. You want a hike with no people? You just found it.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Jim Jam Ridge, Dees Peak, and Trinity Mountain.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 299 west 45 miles to Denny Road. Turn north (right) on County Road 402 (Denny Road) and drive about 21 miles. Turn left on Forest Road 7N15 and drive four miles north to the trailhead parking area. The trailhead is at Hawkins Bar.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
20.0 mi/3 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness east of Willow Creek
Where else can you hike 20 miles with a chance of not seeing anybody? The East Fork trailhead provides access to one of the more primitive, less-traveled regions of the Trinity Alps Wilderness. It’s an area known for streams and forests in the lower reaches and bare limestone ridges in the higher reaches, with a mosaic of forest fire damage in the region from several fires. The trip starts at East Fork trailhead, adjacent to the East Fork New River. It climbs along this watershed and, after two miles, turns before coming to Pony Creek. In the next six miles, which include sections that are quite steep, the trail climbs to Limestone Ridge, near little Rattlesnake Lake. At Limestone Ridge, turn right on New River Divide Trail and head south for six miles, passing Cabin Peak at 6,870 feet and arriving at White Creek Lake.
To complete the loop, turn right on the trail at White Creek Lake and start the trip back, descending most of the way. The trail goes past Jakes Upper Camp and Jakes Lower Camp before linking up again with East Fork Trail for the jog back to the parking area.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Jim Jam Ridge.
Directions: From Weaverville, turn west on Highway 299 and drive 45 miles to Denny Road. Turn north on County Road 402 (Denny Road) and drive 22 miles (the last four miles of the road become unpaved Forest Road 7N01) to the trailhead parking area. The trailhead is at Hawkins Bar.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
1.25 mi/1.0 hr
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest on Highway 299 east of Willow Creek
Burnt Ranch Falls isn’t a spectacular cascade of water like other, more famous waterfalls, but it is the center of a very pretty, easy-to-reach scene on the Trinity River. It’s a relatively small but wide waterfall, composed of about 10 feet of rock that creates a natural barrier for migrating salmon and steelhead during low-water conditions. Thus the highlight comes when river flows rise a bit in the fall, so that you can watch the spectacular sight of salmon and steelhead jumping and sailing through the air to get over and past the falls. Timing is best in fall and early winter, when the season’s first rains attract the fish upstream.
The trip starts at the Burnt Ranch Campground. The trail is a short but steep 0.75-mile jaunt. When you arrive at the river, walk out a short way on the rocky spot to watch the fish jump. The setting, in an area along Highway 299, has a magnificent natural landscape. When you look up from the river, the Trinity Canyon walls look like they ascend into the sky. Unlike most waterfalls, Burnt Ranch Falls is a far less compelling scene at high water. During high, turbid flows, it becomes much more difficult to see fish jumping past the falls. See a fish and this one is a 10.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Ironed Mountain.
Directions: From Weaverville, drive west on Highway 299 to Burnt Ranch. From Burnt Ranch, continue 0.5 mile west on Highway 299 to Burnt Ranch Campground and the trailhead, on the right.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
30.0 mi/3 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness north of Trinity River’s Big Bar
The New River Divide Trail provides access to the Limestone Ridge of the Trinity Alps, taking a ridgeline route most of the way. This is an area known for having lookouts from mountain rims, the headwaters of many small feeder streams, and few people. The trip starts at the Green Mountain trailhead, at an elevation of 5,052 feet, and in the first three miles, the route skirts the southern flank of Brushy Mountain, past Panther Camp and Stove Camp, and along the eastern flank of Green Mountain. As the trail climbs toward the Limestone Ridge, you’ll find yourself perched on a divide, where the streams on each side pour into different watersheds. Eventually the trail rises all the way to Cabin Peak (at 6,870 feet) and beyond to little Rattlesnake Lake, a one-way distance of about 15 miles. Some of the area, especially off to the north, has evidence of past forest fires.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Del Loam.
Directions: From Weaverville, drive west on Highway 299 for 28 miles to French Creek Road (Forest Road 5913). Turn north (right) and drive seven miles (the road becomes Forest Road 5N04). Continue straight for four miles to the trailhead, at the Green Mountain parking area.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
16.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness north of Weaverville
This is the kind of place where wilderness lovers think they can find religion. But what they find, guaranteed, are tons of other people: Expect about 50 other hikers on weekdays and 200 to 300 on weekends. The Forest Service is reluctant to establish trailhead quotas for overnight use, but each visitor would benefit with that approach. The destination is Canyon Creek Lakes, set high in a mountain canyon, framed by Sawtooth Mountain to the east and a series of high granite rims to the north. The route in is no mystery; it’s a climb of 3,100 feet over the course of eight miles. The trail heads straight upstream along Bear Creek for about 0.25 mile, crossing Bear Creek before continuing along Canyon Creek. Four miles out, you’ll reach the first of four waterfalls. The first is the smallest, then they get progressively taller, and all are gorgeous. After the last waterfall, walk 0.5 mile to reach Lower Canyon Creek Lake (5,600 feet), seven miles out from the trailhead. From this place, which is now largely above tree line, cross Stonehouse Gulch to reach the first of two lakes. The trail skirts the left side of the first of the Canyon Creek Lakes, then in 0.5 mile, it arrives at the head of the larger one. From Lower Canyon Creek Lake, the trail turns to the right away from the lake. Follow the cairns to bear to the right, rather than the trail that runs along the shore of Lower Lake and ends in brush.
These lakes are like jewels set in the bottom of a gray, stark, high-mountain canyon, and once you’ve seen them, you’ll have their picture branded permanently in your mind. This has become a special weekend favorite for hikers from Eureka and Redding. It’s got it all. Literally.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Dedrick.
Directions: From Weaverville, drive west on Highway 299 for eight miles to Junction City and Canyon Creek Road. Turn north on Canyon Creek Road and drive 13 miles to the trailhead, at the end of the road (0.75 mile past Ripstein Campground).
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
5.0 mi/2.5 hr
in Shasta-Trinity National Forest east of Ruth Lake on Highway 36
This remote trail is best known for following along the South Fork Trinity River and heads south toward the Yolla Bolly Wilderness. This is best accessed as an early-season trail, when so many other mountain routes are still snowbound. There are no lakes anywhere near the trail, and for the most part, the trail just meanders along, with that stream nearby providing a constant point of reference.
Even the trailhead, a short drive out of the Hell Gate Campground, is remote and obscure. Immediately, the trail picks up the stream, and in less than an hour, you might even feel as if you’ve discovered your own private little universe. How far might you go? For many, an hour in, an hour out is plenty. Locations along the creek include Collins Creek (0.3 mile), Farley Creek (0.9), Marie Creek (2.5), Steel Mule Bridge (2.8), Silver Creek (6.2), and Smokey Creek and the site of an old ranger station (7.2). Hikers can keep going about 10 miles farther one-way to the trail’s end at Double Cabin site, where you can leave a shuttle car and make this a one-way trip. In summer, the temperatures can really smoke out here and the stream is your savior. Note that the trail crosses private property several times; stay on the trail, respect property rights, and help keep this trail open.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Campfire permits are required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Forest Glen.
Directions: From Red Bluff, take Highway 36 (very twisty) west and drive 47 miles to Platina and continue to the junction with Highway 3. Continue west on Highway 36 for 10 miles to the Hell Gate Campground (on the left) and Forest Road 1526. Turn left on Forest Road 1526 and drive to the trailhead.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Hayfork Ranger Station, Hayfork, 530/628-5227, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
4.5 mi/3.0 hr
on the northern boundary of the Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
This 2.25-mile hike from the Stuart Gap trailhead to Black Rock Lake is one of the best day hikes in the Yolla Bolly Wilderness. One of the highlights comes in mid- to late June, when the wildflower blooms are absolutely beautiful. From the trailhead at 5,600 feet at the northern tip of the wilderness, start by hiking about a mile on the Pettyjohn Trail. It is set along the northwestern flank of North Yolla Bolly Mountain (7,863 feet) and is routed toward Pettyjohn Basin. When you reach the Black Rock Lake Trail, turn right on it and tromp another 1.25 miles to the lake. The trail contours through open stands of pine and fir and some small meadows. Small Black Rock Lake is set just below Black Rock Mountain (7,755 feet) and ideal for swimming.
There are many other excellent day hikes from this trailhead: Yolla Bolly Lake, Black Rock Mountain (great views), North Yolla Bolly Mountain (more sweeping vistas), and Cedar Basin (several creeks). Any of these make for good days, remote and quiet. The trailhead can also be used as a jumping-off spot for a hike straight south on Pettyjohn Trail into the wilderness interior.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for North Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Red Bluff, take Highway 36 (very twisty) west and drive 47 miles to Platina. Continue west on Highway 36 for 11 miles to Forest Road 30 (Wildwood-Mad River Road). Turn left (south) and drive nine miles to Forest Road 35. Turn left (east) on Forest Road 35 and drive 10 miles to the intersection of several roads. Take the signed fork for Stuart Gap trailhead and drive 1.8 miles (unpaved) to the trailhead parking area. Hike on Pettyjohn Trail for one mile to reach Black Rock Lake Trail.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Yolla Bolly and Hayfork Ranger Station, Hayfork, 530/628-5227, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
12.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness west of Trinity Center
The trip in to Granite Lake is about six miles, and it’s anything but easy. From the trailhead, start by tracing the right side of Swift Creek. One mile in, the Granite Lake Trail splits off. Just beyond the confluence of Swift and Granite Creeks, you cross the stream to the left. This trail runs along the right side of Granite Creek for four miles and includes a very steep section in the final mile that will have you wondering why you ever thought this was going to be such a short, easy trip. Four miles in, you’ll get your sighting of Bear Basin. Finally you’ll rise to Gibson Meadow and just beyond, Granite Lake, at 6,000 feet, a gorgeous sight below Gibson Peak. For a natural mountain lake, it’s a fair size, with good swimming during the day and trout fishing in the evening. This is a popular spot, so plan on company.
One important note on the way in: For the most part, the creek is not accessible as a water source, so monitor your canteen level.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Covington Mill and Trinity Center.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 3 north for 28 miles to Trinity Center and Swift Creek Road. Turn left and drive 6.8 miles to the parking area at the wilderness border.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
16.0 mi/2 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness northwest of Trinity Lake
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is the 6.5-mile, largely uphill hike to the west side of Gibson Peak, where Deer Lake, Summit Lake, Luella Lake, Diamond Lake, and Siligo Peak can provide days of side-trip destinations. From the trailhead, the trip starts by tracing along the East Fork Stuart Fork, a feeder creek to Trinity Lake. After two miles you’ll arrive at a fork in the trail. Take the right fork (the left fork is routed to Bowerman Meadows and little Lake Anna), which climbs farther along the stream and then traces the southern flank of Gibson Peak. At times the trail is steep in this area, but finally you’ll pass Gibson Peak, and Siligo Peak will come into view. The trail also intersects a loop trail that circles Siligo Peak and provides access to four high-mountain lakes. Summit Lake (7,350 feet) is the favorite. Spring wildflowers are spectacular.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Covington Mill.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 3 north to Covington Mill and Forest Road 115. Turn left and drive for 2.5 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
28.0 mi/4 days
in the Trinity Alps Wilderness northwest of Trinity Lake
Don’t say we didn’t warn you: This trail doesn’t have a difficulty rating of five for nothing. The hike requires an endless climb—very steep at times, particularly as you near the Sawtooth Ridge—spanning nearly 14 miles to Emerald Lake. The first nine miles are easy, and it will have you thinking that this hike is a piece of cake—long, but easy. But surprise! The last five miles from Morris Meadows are the killer. But after arriving and resting up for a night, you’ll find that ecstasy follows. Emerald Lake is one of three lakes set in line in a canyon below the Sawtooth Ridge; the others on this side of the ridge are Sapphire and Mirror. The surroundings are stark and prehistoric, and the lakes are gemlike, blue, and clear, with big rainbow trout and water that is perfect for refreshing swims. From Emerald Lake, the trail continues a mile to Sapphire Lake. From Sapphire, it’s an off-trail scramble, often across big boulders, as you climb another mile to reach Mirror Lake. The entire scene is surreal.
Note: On the way to Emerald Lake, you might notice a cutoff trail to the right. On your trail map, you’ll see it crosses the Sawtooth Ridge and leads into the acclaimed Caribou Lakes Basin. On the map it appears to be a short, easy trip, but in reality, it involves a terrible climb with more than 100 switchbacks. Don’t say you weren’t warned.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Trinity Alps Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Covington Mill.
Directions: From Weaverville, take Highway 3 north to Trinity Lake and Trinity Alps Road. Turn left on Trinity Alps Road and drive 2.5 miles to the trailhead at Bridge Camp.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Weaverville Ranger Station, Weaverville, 530/623-2121, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.2 mi/1.75 hr
on the McCloud arm of Shasta Lake north of Redding
This trail, along a remote section of Shasta Lake, is best in spring when the temperatures are ideal, the lake is highest, the oaks are budding, and wildlife is abundant. Start at Dekkas Rock day-use area on the upper McCloud River Arm of Shasta Lake, near Hirz Bay. From Dekkas Rock, the trail traces the shoreline of the lake, in and out along small coves and creek inlets. Straight across the lake are pretty views of the deep coves at Campbell Creek and Dekkas Creek, of unique limestone outcrops, and of Minnesota Mountain (at 4,293 feet). Note that the forest slopes directly above the Hirz Bay Campground were burned in a fire.
User Groups: Hikers and leashed dogs. No mountain bikes or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Free at Dekkas Rock day-use area. A parking fee of $10 per vehicle is charged if parking at the Hirz Bay boat launch.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for O’Brien.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to Shasta Lake and the exit for Salt Creek/Gilman Road. Take that exit and drive east on Gilman Road/County Road 7H009 for 10 miles (past the access road for Hirz Bay boat launch and campground) and then continue two miles to the Dekkas Rock day-use area.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Shasta Lake Ranger District, Redding, 530/275-1587; Shasta Lake Visitors Center, 530/275-1589, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
1.0 mi/1.0 hr
on the McCloud arm of Shasta Lake north of Redding
Your reward is a towering view of Shasta Lake, unique and special. Even with two million people estimated to visit Shasta Lake every year, the only way to access this trail is from a boat-in campsite at Greens Creek, on the east side of the McCloud arm of the lake. At the back of the cove at Greens Creek, you’ll find a small U.S. Forest Service billboard posted with recreation guide sheets, and behind it are the campground and trailhead. Yet it is one of our favorites. Some spots are a bit overgrown, but for most, the route up to the viewpoint is clear enough.
The trail enters an oak and madrone forest that is interspersed with limestone formations. There are many fascinating side trips on the steep climb up toward a saddle between Town Mountain, at 4,325 feet, and Horse Mountain, at 4,025 feet. These are worth exploring, and if you spend enough time hiking and investigating, you may find some small caves. Most people are inspired to hike just high enough to get a good clear view of the lake below.
User Groups: Hikers and leashed dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A parking fee of $10 per vehicle is charged at boat ramps.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for O’Brien.
Directions: First, load your boat. From Redding, take I-5 north to Shasta Lake and the exit for Salt Creek/Gilman Road. Take that exit and drive east on Gilman Road/County Road 7H009 for 10 miles to the access road for Hirz Bay boat launch. Launch your boat and drive out in the McCloud arm of Shasta Lake toward the Shasta Caverns. Turn left at Greens Creek Cove and land your boat at Greens Creek Boat-In Campground. A billboard is at the back of the cove near the trailhead.
Nearby boat ramps: Bailey Cove (lake must be 73 percent full or higher).
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Shasta Lake Ranger District, Redding, 530/275-1587; Shasta Lake Visitors Center, 530/275-1589, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
2.8 mi/1.5 hr
on the McCloud arm of Shasta Lake north of Redding
The McCloud River arm is the prettiest part of giant Shasta Lake. The mountain canyon features towering limestone formations and the lake’s clear, emerald waters. This trail provides a great view of these phenomena, as well as a close-to-the-water loop hike on one of the lake’s peninsulas.
From the trailhead, start by hiking on the left fork, which travels out along Bailey Cove. As you continue, the trail is routed in a clockwise direction, first along the McCloud arm of the lake, then back to the parking area along John’s Creek Inlet. When you reach the mouth of Bailey Cove, stop and enjoy the view. Directly across the lake are the limestone formations, featuring North Gray Rocks (at 3,114 feet) and topped by Horse Mountain (at 4,025 feet). The famous Shasta Caverns are located just below North Gray Rocks. This hike is best done in April and May, when the lake is at its highest levels and hot weather has yet to arrive. In late summer or fall, when the levels are down, you’ll be looking out at a lot of red dirt. Watch out for the poison oak just off the trail.
User Groups: Hikers and leashed dogs. No mountain bikes or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A parking fee of $7 per vehicle is charged.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for O’Brien.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to Shasta Lake and the exit for O’Brien/Shasta Caverns. Take that exit and turn east on Shasta Caverns Road and drive 0.1 mile to the sign for Bailey Cove Boat Ramp. Bear right at the sign and drive 0.5 mile to the day-use parking area.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Shasta Lake Ranger District, Redding, 530/275-1587; Shasta Lake Visitors Center, 530/275-1589, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
3.8 mi/2.0 hr
at Packers Bay on Shasta Lake north of Redding
Shasta Lake is so big—the biggest reservoir in California—that it can be difficult to know where to start in your mission to explore it. A good answer is right here on the Waters Gulch Loop. It connects to the Overlook Trail, a cutoff of 0.8 mile that climbs atop a small mountain and furnishes a view of the main lake. The trailhead is at Packers Bay, which is easily accessible off I-5. From the trailhead at the parking area, walk down the road and start hiking the trail from the Packers Bay boat-ramp parking lots, and then finish back at the trailhead parking areas. This provides the best loop hike for this site. Highlights of this trip include a route that extends onto one of the lake’s peninsulas, Waters Gulch, a cove on the main Sacramento River arm of the lake, and several lookout points.
User Groups: Hikers and leashed dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for O’Brien.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 north to Shasta Lake and the exit for Packers Bay. Take the exit and drive southwest on Packers Bay Road for one mile to the trailhead, on the right (0.25 mile before the boat ramp).
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Shasta Lake Ranger District, Redding, 530/275-1587; Shasta Lake Visitors Center, 530/275-1589, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
at Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area west of Redding
Note: In the aftermath of the 2018 Carr Fire, which burned 98 percent of Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, several roads and all the trails in burn areas were closed. That includes the hikes to the park’s waterfalls, including to Whiskeytown Falls, Boulder Creek Falls, and Brandy Creek Falls, as well as to trail camps and access to former renowned mountain biking trails. Those will not be reopened until hazard trees are removed and the routes are classified as safe. Call before planning a trip to any of the waterfalls.
Boulder Creek Falls is a 138-foot tall waterfall set in a deep ravine. At the top, the waterfall starts as a narrow cascade where the water builds speed. It then widens into a 28-foot cataract, a gentler rush of water over boulders. You get a full frontal view for great photos. There are two ways to get here, and, of course, we picked the short, easier hike with the more difficult drive to the trailhead. At the parking area, the trailhead is well signed. The route starts on dirt, a former logging road, and is routed into a hardwood forest. It’s an easy walk to a creek with a well-signed spur to the waterfall. Turn right at the spur, and it’s another 0.1 mile along the creek to the plunge pool. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is advised to reach this trailhead. If you do not have an aggressive vehicle, another trailhead to Boulder Creek Falls is available along the lake on South Shore Drive; from there, it is a 5.5-mile round-trip.
User Groups: Hikers, mountain bikes, dogs, and horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A parking fee of $25 per vehicle, good for a week, is charged.
Maps: For a detailed trail map, contact Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Igo.
Directions: Take I-5 to Redding and the exit for Highway 44 West. Take that exit, merge onto 44W and drive 1.2 miles (into town) to Highway 273/N. Pine Street (large signs for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn right on North Pine and drive 500 feet to the first left, for Eureka Way (signed for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn left on Eureka Way and drive 7.7 miles (becomes Highway 299) to Whiskeytown Lake (signed for Visitor Center) on left.
To the waterfall: From the Whiskeytown Visitors Center, return to the junction with Highway 299. Turn left and drive 7.1 miles to a left turn for South Shore Drive/Carr Powerhouse. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to Mill Creek Road (a steep dirt road on right). Turn right (four-wheel drive advised) and drive 1.8 miles to the end of the road. A parking area and the signed trailhead are on the gated road on the right.
Option: For another trailhead with a paved road, from the turnoff on South Shore Drive, drive 5.3 miles to Brandy Creek; requires a 5.5-mile round-trip hike.
Contact: Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown, 530/246-1225, www.nps.gov/whis.
3.3 mi one-way/3.5 hr
at Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area west of Redding
This area avoided damage from the Carr Fire. The Davis Gulch Trail is Whiskeytown Lake’s easiest hike that you can do as a one-way descent, with a shuttle car at the end. Or you can drop off your kids, go have fun with something more serious, and pick them up later at the end. This meandering route along the southwest end of the lake starts out at 1,414 feet (at an information billboard along an access road) and winds its way down to the Brandy Creek Picnic Area, at 1,240 feet. It is a moderate descent on a wide, flat footpath surrounded mostly by oak and manzanita. Along the way, there are many good views of Whiskeytown Lake. The trail spans 3.3 miles and dead-ends. With two vehicles, it is possible to make it a one-way hike with a shuttle and then (better yet) hike the whole route downhill.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A parking fee of $25 per vehicle, good for a week, is charged.
Maps: For a detailed trail map, contact Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Igo.
Directions: Take I-5 to Redding and the exit for Highway 44 West. Take that exit, merge onto 44W, and drive 1.2 miles (into town) to Highway 273/N. Pine Street (large signs for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn right on North Pine and drive 500 feet to first left, for Eureka Way (signed for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn left on Eureka Way and drive 7.7 miles (becomes Highway 299) to Whiskeytown Lake (signed for Visitor Center) on left. From the visitors center, continue on J. F. Kennedy Memorial Drive for three miles to the Davis Gulch trailhead on the right. To reach the Brandy Creek Picnic Area (and end of the trail), continue three more miles on J. F. Kennedy Memorial Drive.
Contact: Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown, 530/246-1225, www.nps.gov/whis.
3.4 mi/2.5 hr
at Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area west of Redding
Note: In the aftermath of the 2018 Carr Fire, which burned 98 percent of Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, several roads and all the trails in burn areas were closed. That includes the hikes to the park’s waterfalls, including to Whiskeytown Falls, Boulder Creek Falls, and Brandy Creek Falls, as well as to trail camps and access to former renowned mountain biking trails. Those will not be reopened until hazard trees are removed and the routes are classified as safe. Call before planning a trip to any of the waterfalls.
lower cascade of Whiskeytown Falls
The viewing areas for Whiskeytown Falls are set in a rock staircase, with a railing for safety, just to the left of the cascades. You rise up to a series of perches, including Photographer’s Ledge and, above that, Artist’s Ledge. These are among the best waterfall views in the state, so close you can often taste the water as it surges past. The waterfall is estimated at 220 feet tall, top to bottom. You can feel a rush of cool air pushed by the blast of water.
From the metal railing, the water sails past you just a few feet distant and then rockets over a brink into a foaming white cascade. It thunders down the canyon. Above you are a series of four giant steps where the water carves mosaics down the rock faces. Below you, a white torrent pounds to the final ledge—and then over the top and pours like an angled fountain into the final plunge pool. Whiskeytown Falls is the prettiest waterfall in California that relatively few have seen.
It’s only a 1.7-mile hike one-way, a short yet aerobic climb most of the way, where you arrive at the final cascade and a staircase built into the rock just to the left of the waterfall. The moments here, one after another, are touched by how this place makes you feel as much as what you see. It starts out as a mild walk on a trail over a sandstone-based terrain. The route leads to Crystal Creek, over a bridge, and beyond to a junction (with the Mill Creek Trail). You bear right, signed for Whiskeytown Falls, and you’re on your way. From the junction, it’s about a half-hour aerobic climb, with several concrete benches positioned as rest stops, past a picnic area and then into the canyon. The first view is of the lower cascade. This seems to be the most popular site for a photo, but it represents only a small piece of the entire falls. If you own a quality camera, bring a tripod and set a slow shutter speed to capture the soft, blurred rush of moving water down the falls.
User Groups: Hikers, mountain bikes, and horses are permitted up to picnic area. Hikers only allowed after this point. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A parking fee of $25 per vehicle, good for a week, is charged. A self-pay station is available at the trailhead.
Maps: For a trail map/brochure, contact Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Igo.
Directions: Take I-5 to Redding and the exit for Highway 44 West. Take that exit, merge onto 44 West and drive 1.2 miles (into town) to Highway 273/N. Pine Street (large signs for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn right on North Pine and drive 500 feet to first left for Eureka Way (signed for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn left on Eureka Way and drive 7.7 miles (becomes Highway 299) to Whiskeytown Lake (signed for Visitor Center) on left.
From visitors center, return a short distance to Highway 299. Turn left on 299 and drive west 8.4 miles to Crystal Creek Road. Turn left and drive 3.7 miles (paved) to parking and trailhead on left.
Contact: Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown, 530/246-1225, www.nps.gov/whis.
3.0 mi/2.0 hr
at Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area west of Redding
Note: In the aftermath of the 2018 Carr Fire, which burned 98 percent of Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, several roads and all the trails in burn areas were closed. That includes the hikes to the park’s waterfalls, including to Whiskeytown Falls, Boulder Creek Falls, and Brandy Creek Falls, as well as to trail camps and access to former renowned mountain biking trails. Those will not be reopened until hazard trees are removed and the routes are classified as safe. Call before planning a trip to any of the waterfalls.
Brandy Creek Falls is a cascade chute with a series of pool-and-drops that pour into a big pool. It is spectacular at high water, a cataract where all the waterfall pools are connected into a massive white-water flow. At low water, it splits into two thin cascades with a series of small drops. This is not a Yosemite-like free fall, and the trailhead is still fairly obscure. It’s a 1.5-mile hike to get there, with a 500-foot climb.
From the trailhead, you’ll cross a creek in 0.5 mile. There is a large debris field of logs and boulders in the creek, the result of the 1977 flood. Continue on and in another 0.25 mile, you will reach a junction with the Rich Gulch Trail. Though you pass this by and continue ahead, note that the trail narrows here and is accessible only for hikers. From here to the falls, the trail enters the Brandy Creek Canyon with fern grottoes and cliff-like drop-offs. It can be slippery, but the route heads right along the cascade. As you forge on, you will find steps cut in rock that will lead you past five pools and falls that run about 50 feet. Very special stuff.
User Groups: Hikers only. No mountain bikes, dogs, or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A parking fee of $25 per vehicle, good for a week, is charged.
Maps: For a detailed trail map, contact Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Igo.
Directions: Take I-5 to Redding and the exit for Highway 44 West. Take that exit, merge onto 44W and drive 1.2 miles (into town) to Highway 273/N. Pine Street (large signs for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn right on North Pine and drive 500 feet to first left for Eureka Way (signed for 299/Weaverville-Eureka). Turn left on Eureka Way and drive 7.7 miles (becomes Highway 299) to Whiskeytown Lake (signed for Visitor Center) on left.
From the visitors center, continue south on Kennedy Memorial Drive to a fork. Bear right at the fork, cross over the dam, and continue past the Brandy Creek area to Shasta Bally Road. Turn left and drive 2.5 miles on the dirt road to a junction. Turn left and drive 0.75 mile to a small parking area. The signed trailhead is 150 feet up the road.
Contact: Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown, 530/246-1225, www.nps.gov/whis.
8.0 mi/2 days
on the eastern boundary of the Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
Not many people hike into the Yolla Bolly Wilderness, set up a camp, then hike back out the next day. But here is a chance to do exactly that. The trailhead is at the Tomhead Saddle, located just west of Tomhead Mountain, at an elevation of 6,757 feet. From here, hike past Tomhead Spring on Syd Cabin Ridge Trail, then drop down into Hawk Camp. Set just below the confluence of three feeder streams, Hawk Camp is a spot to overnight. On the way back, expect a steady climb with no water between Tomhead Spring and Hawk Camp. If you plan on extending your trip for several days into the wilderness, a network of trails intersects just beyond Hawk Camp, but note that a stream crossing is required. The Yolla Bolly Wilderness is one of the least-used significant wilderness areas in California.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Shasta-Trinity National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for North Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Red Bluff, turn west on Highway 36 (twisty) and drive about 13 miles to Cannon Road. Turn left (south) on Cannon Road and go approximately five miles to Pettyjohn Road. Turn right (west) on Pettyjohn Road and drive to Forest Road 27N06. Turn left (south) on Forest Road 27N06 and continue three miles to the parking area at Tomhead Saddle Campground. From Highway 36, this route is a dirt road all the way in. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended. In storms, it can also be slippery when wet.
Contact: Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Yolla Bolly and Hayfork Ranger Station, Hayfork, 530/628-5227, www.fs.usda.gov/stnf.
