The Mendocino coast is dramatic and remote with several stellar state parks, while Sonoma Valley produces some of the most popular wines in the world. The Mendocino coast features a series of romantic hideaways and excellent adventuring and hiking. The Fort Bragg area has three state parks, with outstanding recreation, including several easy hikes, many amid redwoods and along pretty streams. (For overnight hikes in a state park on a summer weekend, campsite reservations are required far in advance.) A driving tour of Highway 1 along this section of the coast is the fantasy of many. Along the twists and turns of the road are dozens of hidden beaches and untouched coastline to stop and explore. The prize spots are MacKerricher State Park, Salt Point State Park, and Anchor Bay. Inland, you’ll find pockets of redwoods near Guerneville, Philo, and Calistoga.
1 LOST COAST TRAIL/SINKYONE TRAILHEAD
5 CHAMBERLAIN CREEK WATERFALL TRAIL
8 BIG HENDY GROVE/HERMIT’S HUT TRAIL
10 IDES COVE NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL
12 WEST CROCKETT TRAILHEAD/MIDDLE FORK FALLS LOOP
14 SUMMIT SPRINGS TRAILHEAD/WEST SNOW MOUNTAIN LOOP
17 LAKE SONOMA SOUTHLAKE TRAIL
19 SENTINEL ROCK/FISK MILL COVE
27 COYOTE PEAK/REDWOOD TRAIL LOOP
30 RIDGE TRAIL/NORTH SONOMA MOUNTAIN
17 mi one-way/2 days
in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park
This remote and rugged wilderness of Northern California coastline, covering more than 7,000 acres, is protected forever as Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. It has become popular for trekkers looking for the wild side, despite few directional signs along roads, no highways leading here, and virtually no park promotion.
This is the southern section of the Lost Coast Trail, which starts out at Orchard Camp and heads south to Usal Campground (do not confuse this with the northern section, of course, which starts near the mouth of the Mattole River and south to Black Sands Beach, listed in the Redwood Empire chapter). The best way to explore this trip is with a one-way hike with a shuttle car, and best hiked north to south to keep the north winds out of your face. The primitive, steep, and unforgiving terrain provides a rare coastal wilderness experience.
Day 1: From the northern trailhead at Orchard Camp, Lost Coast Trail starts out flat and pleasant, arcing around Bear Harbor Cove. From here the trail climbs 800 feet and then back down, passing through a redwood grove and also breaking out for sweeping coastal views. Enjoy them, because the hike gets more difficult, including a steep climb up, over, and down a mountain. The trail finally descends into Little Jackass Creek Camp, which is set beside a small stream 10.5 miles from your start.
Day 2: The closeout of a two-day hike should always be as enjoyable as possible, and so it is here, with divine views in many spots along the 6.5-mile route. Alas, there’s usually payment for views, and that comes in the form of several rugged climbs in the park’s remotest sections. After climbing to nearly 1,000 feet, the trail ends with an 800-foot downgrade over the last mile, descending to the Usal Campground parking area.
Notes: All food must be bear-proofed. Dogs are permitted only at car camps. At the northern boundary of the Sinkyone Wilderness, this trail continues north into the King Range National Conservation Area, where it’s routed for another 30 miles to the mouth of the Mattole River (see the listing for Lost Coast Trail/Mattole Trailhead in the Redwood Empire chapter).
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses allowed only on the section of trail between the trailhead at the park entrance and Wheeler Camp. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free unless you plan to camp.
Maps: A trail map and brochure are available for a fee from Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Petrolia, Cooskie Creek, Shubrick Peak, Bear Harbor, and Shelter Cove.
Access Note: Briceland Road at the north end of the Sinkyone and Usal Road at the south end are subject to flooding and slides. For current conditions, phone for Mendocino County road conditions at 707/463-4363 or go to www.mendocinocounty.org. Shuttle services are expensive and they seem to come and go; for the latest, call the Southern Humboldt Chamber of Commerce in Garberville at 707/923-2613.
Directions: From Garberville, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for Redway. Follow that exit to Briceland Road. Turn left (west) on Briceland Road and drive 17 miles to Whitethorn. Continue six miles to the Four Corners Fork, then go another six miles (the road turns to gravel) to the Needle Rock Ranger Station. Continue past the ranger station to the visitors center and park at Orchard Camp. Be aware that the access road is unpaved, it may close unexpectedly in the winter, and four-wheel-drive vehicles are often required in wet weather. There are few signs pointing the way to the park, and when they are posted, they are often stolen. Trailers and RVs are not recommended.
Contact: Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, c/o Richardson Grove, 707/247-3318, www.parks.ca.gov
8.0 mi/4.5 hr
on the boundary of Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
The Rock Cabin Trail (also known as the River Trail) extends north into the Yolla Bolly Wilderness and up, over, and down a short ridge before pouring into Wrights Valley. About halfway in, the River Trail jumps to Wrights Valley Trail. It’s about a four-mile trip one-way to your destination. Here you’ll find the headwaters of the Middle Fork Eel River, one of the prettiest streams in the wilderness. The trail is well marked and includes two creek crossings and a pretty waterfall. The Yolla Bollys provide few lakes, but the Middle Fork awaits you. In order to protect steelhead, no fishing is allowed. You won’t see any evidence of fire until well into Wrights Valley, where it did a lot of good, not bad, by clearing a lot of impenetrable undergrowth.
Note: Little Henthorne Lake, complete with two wilderness cabins, is located 2.5 miles from the Rock Cabin trailhead. Resist the urge to visit. This is maintained as private property. Hikers are often tempted to walk in via a very faint cowboy trail (with a river crossing) and camp here illegally.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for South Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Willits, drive north on U.S. 101 for 13 miles to Longvale and Highway 162. Turn east on Highway 162 and drive 30 miles to the turnoff for Highway 162 East. Turn right and drive nine miles to the Eel River Bridge and Forest Road M1 (Indian Dick Road). At the bridge, turn left (north) onto Forest Road M1 and drive 24 miles to Forest Road 25N15C. Turn left on Forest Road 25N15C and drive 0.75 mile to the turnoff for the Rock Cabin trailhead. Turn left and drive 0.25 mile to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Covelo Ranger District, Covelo, 707/983-6118, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
on the Mendocino coast north of Fort Bragg
Some of the best tidepools on the Pacific Coast can be found in Mendocino. One of the best of the best is here, located just south of Bruhel Point. When you first arrive, you’ll find a Caltrans roadside vista point (no overnight parking), restrooms, and a beach access trail. This is your calling. The trail is routed north toward Bruhel Point, and much of it is set along the edge of ocean bluffs. Do not make your own descent down the bluff. Instead take only the cutoff trails, which lead to the best tidepool areas. Time your trip during a low tide or, better yet, a minus low tide. That is when the ocean pulls back, leaving a series of holes and cuts in a rock basin that remain filled with water, providing the perfect habitat and viewing areas for all kinds of tiny marinelife.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Not suitable for mountain bikes or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Inglenook.
Directions: From Westport, drive south on Highway 1 about two miles to milepost marker 74.09 and park at the Caltrans Vista Point parking lot. The tidepools are a short walk.
Contact: None.
1.2 mi/0.5 hr
in MacKerricher State Park north of Fort Bragg
The loop trail around Lake Cleone is not only easy but also something special. Mrs. MacKerricher named the trail Cleone, which means “gracious” or “beautiful” in Greek. The route includes several sections on raised wooden walkways, which provide routes through marshy areas. In the winter months, the southern part of the trail (without the boardwalk) can be flooded. Be sure to wear your high boots in the rainy season.
In some spots, the trail burrows like a tunnel through a variety of trees and lush vegetation. At others, it provides many glimpses of pretty Lake Cleone. It loops all the way around the lake, which is almost always full. The beautiful Pacific Ocean looms just beyond to the west, a cypress grove is to the south, and a marsh is to the east. The boardwalk is wheelchair-accessible. MacKerricher State Park is filled with many enticing highlights. It is also one of the few state parks with free day-use access.
Side trip: From the parking lot adjacent to the lake, you can walk under the built-up foundation of an old railroad line (now a bicycle trail called Old Haul Road) and connect to Headlands Trail. This is a must-do. It’s an easy short walk, much of it on a raised walkway that leads to a series of tidepools and the best seal- and whale-watching station on the coast.
User Groups: Hikers, leashed dogs, and wheelchairs (the trail is partially wheelchair-accessible). No horses or mountain bikes. Horse trails and mountain bike routes are available elsewhere in the state park.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free for day use.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee at MacKerricher State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Inglenook.
Directions: From Fort Bragg drive north on Highway 1 for three miles to the park entrance. Turn left and drive to the parking area beside the lake. The trailhead is on the east side of the parking lot.
Contact: MacKerricher State Park, Mendocino, 707/964-9112, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
in Jackson State Forest east of Fort Bragg
Chamberlain Creek Falls is a surprise 50-foot waterfall set in a canyon framed by redwoods, well secluded in Jackson State Forest. Time it in the spring after a period of heavy rain and this one is a 10, where you’ll find a silvery stream emerging from the greenery in a chute-like cataract over the brink. It’s off the Mendocino grid and set back off an old logging road. The trail is short, little known to outsiders, and beautiful. This access road (gravel/dirt), by the way, can get muddy in the winter and extremely dusty in the summer. After parking, you’ll find the trail routed a short distance down the canyon to the stream, starting with a short series of steps. The trail simply heads down the canyon directly to the base of the waterfall. Jackson State Forest is overlooked by most visitors, despite the beauty of the area and the popularity of the Mendocino coast. That means you’ll most likely have the place to yourself. Jackson State Forest, at 48,652 acres, is the largest of Cal Fire’s eight demonstration state forests.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free trail map, contact Jackson Demonstration State Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Northspur.
Directions: From Willits, take Highway 20 west for 17 miles to Forest Road 200, a dirt road just before the Chamberlain Creek Bridge. Turn right on Road 200 and drive one mile to a fork. Bear left and drive 3.5 miles. Look for a parking pullout and park on the side of the road. The trailhead is on the left. In the heaviest rainy season, note that State Forest Road 200 is sometimes closed due to weather; call ahead for the status.
Contact: Jackson Demonstration State Forest, Fort Bragg, 707/964-5674, www.fire.ca.gov.
5.1 mi/2.5 hr
in Russian Gulch State Park south of Fort Bragg
A 35-foot waterfall in deep forest makes this walk one of the prettiest on the Mendocino coast. Most of the year, this waterfall is a narrow silvery stream that pours atop and across a boulder. In winter it can build into more powerful multiple chutes and curtains and land in the rock basin with surging splashes. It’s way better at high flows, of course. You get a full frontal of the cascade. You then descend a short distance to the foot of the plunge pool and a bridge over the creek for another angle. Although a lot of the old growth was taken a long time ago, much is still divine.
The route is simple. The trailhead is just beyond the campground, where you can park adjacent to a restroom. The first two miles are just about flat, once paved for bikes but today eroded into a pocked surface. You pass bracken ferns and sword ferns and enter redwoods with an understory of ferns, wild blackberries, and sorrel. At 2.3 miles, you arrive at the junction for the Waterfall Loop Trail. Turn left, expect a short climb, and hike out the final 0.7 miles to the waterfall. Even in the summer months, this is a pretty, if narrow, silver cascade, streaming 20 feet across a granite boulder and down into a pool. The entire trip has very little elevation gain.
Note: This used to be one of the best easy bike-and-hikes in Northern California, where youngsters and their families could ride out on a paved trail, lock up at the trail fork, and hike the final 15 minutes to the falls. The eroded patchwork surface ended that.
User Groups: Hikers only. No mountain bikes, dogs, or horses. However, a paved trail for bicycles and wheelchairs is routed 2.5 miles to the trailhead of Falls Loop Trail.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee at Russian Gulch State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mendocino.
Directions: From Fort Bragg, take Highway 1 south for six miles to the Russian Gulch State Park entrance. Turn right and drive a very short distance to the state park entrance. After passing the kiosk, travel down the hill and to the bridge. Turn left and drive past the campsites to the trailhead.
Contact: Russian Gulch State Park, Mendocino, 707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.1 mi/5.0 hr
in Van Damme State Park south of Mendocino
This beautiful streamside walk amid coastal redwoods is one of the most popular trails on the Mendocino coast. In spring, this one is a 10. The trail starts at the bottom of a canyon along the Little River and heads upstream, rising gently along the way, with a series of little bridges that crisscross the water. The creek is pretty and often clear, the forest canopy towers, and the understory of fern and sorrel is lush. Most people hike 2.3 miles (paved all the way) out to the junction of Loop Trail and then turn around and head back. Visitors can add on a three-mile loop, climbing up and out of the canyon to a terrace to visit the Pygmy Forest (largely disappointing). Another option we like is to start at the Pygmy Forest and descend into Fern Canyon, continue downstream along the creek, then turn left and climb out of the canyon to create a pretty loop hike with few people.
Fern Canyon Trail
Note that heavy rains can flood out the trail and wash out the bridges.
Note: This Fern Canyon Trail is not to be confused with the Fern Canyon Loop Trail on the Humboldt coast in the Redwood Empire chapter.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs or horses. Wheelchairs and mountain bikes are allowed only on the first 2.3 miles of the trail.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle. Beach parking is free.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee at Van Damme State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mendocino.
Directions: From Mendocino, take Highway 1 south for 2.5 miles to the park entrance. Turn left and drive 0.75 mile (signed) to the trailhead parking near the campground. The trail is just beyond the campground and restroom.
Contact: Van Damme State Park, Mendocino, 707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
in Hendy Woods State Park near Philo
This easy and short walk through an ancient redwood forest can have you smiling for days. Hendy Woods is located in the redwood-filled canyon of the Navarro River, which flows to the sea on the Mendocino coast. The park covers 845 acres, and the two old-growth redwood groves, Little Hendy (20 acres) and Big Hendy (80 acres), are the most compelling sites.
When you first arrive, there is a sudden transition interface of the foothill grasslands to redwoods. At Big Hendy, start by taking the 0.5-mile Discovery Trail, which leaves the grasslands and enters the redwood grove on a dirt path. Suddenly you’ll be walking among towering redwoods, moss-covered stumps, and a sprinkling of giant fallen trees, all set amid ferns and sorrel. A great side trip is to walk uphill on the cutoff trail to the old hermit’s hut in a hollowed-out tree stump, where one of the last of the real hermits lived for years. No, it wasn’t me, but there have been a few years where I considered it.
User Groups: Hikers and wheelchairs. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee at Hendy Woods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Philo.
Directions: From Mendocino, take Highway 1 south for about five miles to Highway 128. Turn east on Highway 128 and drive about 20 miles to Philo Greenwood Road. Turn south (right) and drive 0.5 mile to the entrance of Hendy Woods State Park on the left. The trailhead begins just off the parking area.
Contact: Hendy Woods State Park, Mendocino District, Mendocino, 707/895-3141, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.0-10.5 mi/1.0-5.0 hr
in Cow Mountain Recreation Area east of Ukiah
Hit it right in spring, and the Glen Eden Trail will surprise you with its foothill/oak woodland greenery and long-distance views of Clear Lake and the Mayacamas Range. The trailhead is Lake County’s only access point to North Cow Mountain where no motorized vehicles are allowed, and no mountain bikes too for the first 2.5 miles. You start out on a dirty pathway, not a road, that is routed in and out of oak woodlands into the interior of the recreation land. As you go, there is a series of climbs, some steep, and falls. The Glen Eden Trail eventually crosses Mendo Rock Road (this provides another trailhead possibility) and continues up to a series of great overlooks of Clear Lake. The views of Clear Lake and the Mayacamas Range are outstanding. To return, retrace your route. Few make the entire trip, but instead they just hike out to a good lookout and then return. The chaparral-covered slopes are peppered with pine and oak, with many miles of trails and fire roads.
The 52,000-acre Cow Mountain Recreation Area is named for the longhorn cattle that once roamed wild in this area.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes are prohibited on the first 2.5 miles of trail, after which public property starts and bicycles are allowed. Cyclists should access Glen Eden Trail from other trailheads on Bureau of Land Management land.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free trail map of the Cow Mountain Recreation Area, contact the Bureau of Land Management. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Cow Mountain.
Directions: From Ukiah, take U.S. 101 north for five miles to Highway 20. Turn east on Highway 20 and drive 14.6 miles (past Blue Lakes) to Scotts Valley Road. Turn right and drive 2.6 miles to the trailhead and parking.
Contact: Bureau of Land Management, Ukiah Field Office, Ukiah, 707/468-4000, www.ca.blm.gov.
10.5 mi/5.5 hr
on the boundary of Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
At 8,092 feet, South Yolla Bolly Mountain is the highest point in this wilderness. The Ides Cove National Recreation Trail skirts this mountain as part of one of the top one-day loop trails available in the Yolla Bollys. A bonus is that a shorter loop hike (3.5 miles) is also available. From the Ides Cove trailhead, the trail drops down to the headwaters of Slide Creek and heads out to the foot of Harvey Peak, at 7,361 feet. This is the halfway point and a good spot for lunch. The trail turns sharply and is routed back along the flank of the South Yolla Bolly Mountains. On the way, it passes both Long and Square Lakes, which are both tiny water holes with small brook trout.
A free, primitive campground with two sites is available at the trailhead. Horse facilities are nearby, but not at the trailhead. The trail gets only light use.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for South Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 south to Corning and the exit for Corning Road/Paskenta Road. Take that exit, turn west on Paskenta Road and drive about 20 miles to Paskenta. In the town of Paskenta, Corning/Paskenta Road will split, becoming Round Valley Road on the left and County Road M2/Toomes Creek Road straight ahead. Continue straight on County Road M2/Toomes Creek Road for 20 miles to Cold Springs Ranger Station and County Road M22. Turn right on County Road M22 and drive about 15 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Grindstone Ranger Station, 530-934-3316; Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
at the head of Black Butte Reservoir west of Orland
The Big Oak Trail is routed through a riparian area in the Stony Creek drainage above the head of Black Butte Reservoir. The habitat is constantly changing here based on creek flows and temperatures. The route is an easy jaunt. The riparian habitat can make it an area to see wildlife in the foothills above the Sacramento Valley. It has become part of California’s Watchable Wildlife system. The best chance to sight wildlife is at dusk and dawn in late spring through summer, when the temperatures are moderate and water are abundant.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and mountain bikes. No horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Julian Rocks.
Directions: Take I-5 to Orland and the exit for Black Butte Lake. Take that exit, turn west on Newville Road (County Road 200) and drive 10 miles to County Road 206. Turn left on County Road 206 and drive to County Road 200A. Bear left on County Road 200A and drive to the lake and trailhead.
Contact: Buckhorn Recreation Area, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Black Butte Lake, Orland, 530/865-4781, www.spk.usace.army.mil.
4.4 mi/3.0 hr
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
This loop trail traverses the region’s most treasured areas. Double-peaked Snow Mountain itself is the big ridge about midway between I-5 at Willows and U.S. 101 at Willits. This trail starts on I-5 at the northern boundary of the wilderness at the West Crockett trailhead (just west of Crockett Peak). Start by hiking two miles to get into Middle Fork Creek. The trail connects there with a spur trail to the waterfall. Take that spur 0.2 mile to the waterfall. In late spring and early summer, it’s short, pretty and fun.
To turn this into a major loop, take the main trail uphill, a significant climb, to reach a small loop set between East Snow Mountain (7,056 feet) and West Snow Mountain (7,038 feet). To return, take North Ridge Trail, which drops down from Snow Mountain and traces the Middle Fork of Stony Creek for a good portion of the route back to the parking area; it’s 13 miles.
This is a good hike in late winter or spring, but much of this area can be quite dry and hot in midsummer, especially on the North Ridge. From late spring through fall, rattlesnakes are common. Hikers should always be certain to carry a lot of water here, twice as much as usual.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Crockett Peak and St. John Mountain.
Directions: Take I-5 to Willows and the exit for Highway 162. Take that exit, turn west on Highway 162 and drive 21 miles to a T junction (signed Elk Creek). Turn left and drive one mile through the town of Elk Creek to Ivory Mill Road. Turn right on Ivory Mill Road (Road 308) and drive 15 miles to Forest Road M3. Turn left on Forest Road M3 and drive 15.5 miles to the signed turnoff for West Crockett trailhead. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
3.25 mi/1.75 hr
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
Every wilderness has secret spots. So it is here in the Snow Mountain Wilderness. On a hot summer day when every drop of water is counted as if it were liquid gold, you’ll find a simple paradise on this short walk to the headwaters of a tiny fork of Bear Wallow Creek. The trail was brushed and also cleared of downed trees in 2019.
Your destination is a pretty section of Bear Wallow Creek, a small feeder stream to the middle fork of Stony Creek. The hike starts at the Bear Wallow trailhead near the Windy Point Campground. The trail is routed straight east on Bear Wallow Trail for a little more than a mile. About 1.5 miles in, start looking for a spur trail on the right side, and when you see it, take it. This spur drops a short distance down to the source of the north fork of Bear Wallow Creek. If you think there are too many people in the world, just come here and look around.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Crockett Peak and St. John Mountain.
Directions: Take I-5 to Willows and the exit for Highway 162. Follow that exit, turn west on Highway 162 and drive 21 miles to a T junction (signed Elk Creek). Turn left and drive 1.3 miles through the town of Elk Creek to Road 308/Ivory Mill Road. Turn right on Ivory Mill Road (Road 308) and drive 15 miles to Forest Road M3 (well signed). Turn left on Forest Road M3 and drive 13.4 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
12 mi/1 day
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
This trail includes two killer climbs, a wonderful little spring along the trail, and the ascent of West Snow Mountain, at 7,038 feet, for a panorama. Still interested? Then read on. The trail starts at the Summit Spring trailhead (there’s a small, primitive trailhead camp with a pit toilet, an unreliable spring, and three campsites). In the first two miles, you get a no-fun clamber up to High Rock. At the trail junction here, turn right on Box Spring Loop Trail and hike past the headwaters of Trout Creek to Box Spring, located just to the right of the trail, near another trail junction. In hot weather (typically all summer), this spot is paradise. Turn left and make the three-mile climb up West Snow Mountain. You will grunt and thump it out every step of the way. At the top, enjoy this victory for a while before dropping back down for the final three miles to the trailhead and parking area.
Do you yearn for the passion of the mountain experience? Do you crave the zest of life when you have a bad case of dry mouth and discover a mountain spring? Is the price of a climb worth it for the mountaintop payoff? Are you nuts? You need to answer yes, yes, yes, and yes to be ready for this loop hike.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fouts Springs.
Directions: Take I-5 to the exit for Maxwell (north of Williams, south of Willows). Follow that exit to Maxwell-Sites Road, turn west, and drive to Sites and Sites-Lodoga Road. Turn left on Sites-Lodoga Road and drive to Lodoga and Lodoga-Stonyford Road. Turn left and loop around East Park Reservoir to reach Stonyford and Fouts Spring Road (Road M10). Turn west and drive 25 miles to a signed access road for Summit Spring trailhead. Turn right and drive 1.5 miles to the parking area and trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
4.0 mi/1.75 hr
in Manchester State Park north of Point Arena
The Alder Creek Trail starts by the park headquarters for Manchester State Park. The trail is routed past Lake Davis to the beach, then continues north along the beach to the mouth of Alder Creek. This is a coastal lagoon that attracts many species of shorebirds, including, though rarely, whistling swans. It’s also the area where the San Andreas Fault heads off from land into the sea.
Time it right here and all can seem perfect. Manchester State Park has two moods: one is sweet and one is foul. In late summer, fall, and late winter, radiant sunbeams set the Mendocino coast aglow, making for flawless beach walks. But in early summer, winds often blast out of the northwest, and it can feel as if your head could blow off. Good thing it’s attached at the neck (well, at least for most people). In midsummer, fog smothers the coast about every morning.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs. The terrain isn’t suitable for mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee at Manchester State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Point Arena.
Directions: From Point Arena, take Highway 1 north for five miles to Kinney Lane. Turn left and drive one mile to the park entrance, on the right.
Contact: Manchester State Park, 707/882-2463, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.5 mi/0.75 hr
in Gualala Point Regional Park on the Sonoma coast
The Headlands (to beach) Loop is an easy, short walk. It provides coastal views with a short cutoff on a spur trail. It also furnishes a lookout over the Gualala River and a route amid giant coastal cypress trees. From the visitors center, the trail is routed along the Gualala River and then turns and loops to the left. Here you can take the short cutoff trail that leads to the beach. On the way back, the trail traces the ocean bluffs for a short spell. For coastal views, take the spur trail to a lookout. Then the main trail turns inland and returns to the visitors center. Bonuses here include excellent whale-watching during the winter and good wildflower blooms on the grassy hillsides in spring. It is mostly level. The trailhead elevation is 250 feet.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a parking fee of $7 per vehicle.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Gualala.
Directions: From Gualala, drive south on Highway 1 for 0.25 mile (over the Gualala River) and turn west into the park entrance. Continue to the visitors center.
Contact: Gualala Point Regional Park, Gualala, 707/785-2377, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
5.2 mi/2.0 hr
at Lake Sonoma northwest of Healdsburg
This trail provides the best introduction to Lake Sonoma, unless, that is, you have a boat and take advantage of the boat-in campsites. The Southlake Trail starts off of Stewart’s Point Road below the Overlook. The short trail at the Overlook provides spectacular views of the lake. That’s the payoff. The trail then winds along the southwestern portion of Warm Springs Arm through gray pine and madrone woodlands. It traces alongside the lake, enters and exits a series of small groves, and extends along the lake’s fingers. At 2.7 miles, you’ll reach Quicksilver Campground. Campers often take this trail out for the views of Lake Sonoma. A few trails bisect the route and extend into the remoter surrounding country. When you’ve had enough, just turn back. The trail is not very steep, but does have some changes in elevation. It features sun exposure, making it great for wildflowers in the spring but very hot on summer afternoons. Most of the habitat is oak grasslands, and on rare occasion you may see deer and, in summer, rattlesnakes.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free map, go to the visitors center or contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Warm Springs Dam.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north for 12 miles to the exit for Healdsburg and Dry Creek Road. Follow that exit, turn left on Dry Creek Road, and drive about 11 miles (crossing Dry Creek; Dry Creek Road becomes Skaggs Springs Road; continue past visitors center) to Skaggs Springs-Stewarts Point Road. Turn left and drive 0.25 mile to a trailhead spur road. Turn right and drive a short distance to the trailhead on the left.
Contact: Lake Sonoma Visitor Center, 707/431-4533; U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Lake Sonoma, Geyserville, 707/431-4590; www.spn.usace.army.mil.
3.5 mi/1.5 hr
in Salt Point State Park north of Jenner
The dramatic, rocky shoreline of Salt Point State Park is memorable to anyone who has seen it. This trail provides the best look at it, including some simply awesome views from a 100-foot-high ocean bluff. The trailhead is at the parking area set near the tip of Salt Point. From here, hike north over Warren Creek, a seasonal stream, and then continue across the bluffs. You can practically feel the crashing of ocean breakers below you, the spray rocketing skyward. The trail eventually winds around and down to Stump Beach Cove, a pretty, sandy beach where the calm waters are in sharp contrast to the nearby breakers. The payoff on the Bluff Trail is the Sentinel Rock Viewing Platform and the overlook of Fisk Mill Cove. This park is stellar.
Salt Point Bluff Trail
Note: At the north end of Salt Point State Park, a parking lot with a short spur to the Sentinel Rock Viewing Platform was closed due to the chance of dead and falling trees. A project to clear the hazard trees and reopen the parking lot is scheduled to be complete between 2020 and 2022; Salt Point State Park provides a marine reserve, Gerstle Cove, where no form of marinelife may be taken or disturbed.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on designated trails only, and mountain bikes are allowed only on fire roads. One trail (Gerstle Cove) is paved for wheelchairs for 100 yards out to Salt Point. No dogs.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Salt Point State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Follow that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1 at Jenner. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive 20 miles (nine miles past Fort Ross) to the park entrance. Turn left (west) and drive to the entrance kiosk. The trailhead is at the Salt Point parking area.
Mendocino shoreline
Contact: Salt Point State Park, Jenner, 707/847-3221, www.parks.ca.gov.
4.0 mi/2.5 hr
in Salt Point State Park north of Jenner
Fisk Mill Cove is a beautiful spot at Salt Point State Park. It provides a great whale-watching spot. The best strategy is to enter the trail at the north end and then venture to the wooden deck at Sentinel Rock. Take in the sweeping views across the ocean and below to Fisk Mill Cove. From here, the trail ventures south two miles to Stump Beach Cove. When you roam about at the park, always keep an eye out. On the coastal bluffs, this is one of the better locations anywhere for a chance to see a badger.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on designated trails only, and mountain bikes are allowed only on fire roads. No dogs.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Salt Point State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1 at Jenner. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive 20 miles (nine miles past Fort Ross) to the park entrance. Continue north (past main park entrance on your left) for about three miles to signed parking area on left for Sentinel Rock (and on right for Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve). Turn left to parking and trailhead.
Contact: Salt Point State Park, Jenner, 707/847-3221, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.25 mi/0.75 hr
in Stillwater Cove Regional Park north of Jenner
The trailhead is located at the day-use parking lot, and after starting the walk, you’ll enter a gorgeous forest of firs and redwoods. You then come to the Loop Trail junction, where you turn right. The trail is routed along the creek, crosses a few bridges, and eventually rises above the watershed and loops back through forest to the parking area. It’s an easy, pretty, and secluded loop hike.
Must-do side trip: Cross Highway 1 to see Stillwater Cove, a dramatic rock-strewn shore. Highway 1 is one of the top tourist drives in the United States, which explains why the coastal state parks get such heavy use in the summer months.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A day-use fee of $7 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: For a free brochure, contact Stillwater Cove Regional Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Go right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1. Turn right and head north, past the town of Jenner, for 16 miles to the park entrance, on the right at mile marker 37.01.
Contact: Stillwater Cove Regional Park, County of Sonoma, Santa Rosa, 707/847-3245; Regional Parks Department, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
1.5 mi/1.0 hr
on the Sonoma coast west of Bodega Bay
Pick a calm, clear evening with scarcely a breeze. The view here at sunset can be so poignant that it can touch your heart at the memories of all the things you’ve let slip through your fingers. It’s that kind of place. The short loop hike at Bodega Head will provide an introduction to one of California’s great coastal areas for an easy hike and views that can set off feelings that you will never forget. The trail starts at the east parking lot. In just 1.5 miles, you get views of cliffs, untouched beaches, and the sea beyond. For a side trip, take a short tromp on a spur trail to the tip-top of Bodega Head for 360-degree views. Rarely does the ocean seem so vast as it does here. The North Farallon Island looks like you could reach it with a running leap. A few notes about the weather: In spring and early summer, the wind can really howl out of the northwest. In late summer, fall, or late winter, between storms, Bodega Bay gets its warmest, and often most wind-free, weather. Scanning for whale spouts is great from January through April. But it’s the sunsets here that you’ll never forget.
User Groups: Hikers only. No horses, dogs, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail map and brochure are available for a fee from Sonoma Coast State Beach.
Directions: Take U.S. 101 to Petaluma and the exit for East Washington. Follow that exit to East Washington. Turn west and drive through Petaluma (the road becomes Bodega Avenue) for about 10 miles to Valley Ford Road. Bear right and drive 7.5 miles to Highway 1. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive nine miles to Bodega Bay and continue to East Shore Road. Turn left on East Shore Road and drive less than 0.5 mile to a stop sign at Bay Flat Road. Turn right and drive five miles around Bodega Bay (the road turns into West Side Road). Continue past Spud Point Marina and drive to the Bodega Head parking area.
Contact: Sonoma Coast State Beach, Bodega Bay, 707/875-3483, www.parks.ca.gov.
14.5 mi/1 day
Berryessa-Snow Mountain National Monument
The payoff is a sensational view from bare, flat-topped Berryessa Peak at 3,057 feet. Lake Berryessa below spans for miles, and what seems like an endless array of hilltops, valleys, and ridges extend to the coast, often fronted by a distant low-lying wall of fog on the western horizon. To the east, you also get a great view of the Sutter Buttes, and in the spring on clear days, a clear view of the snow-packed west flank of the Sierra Crest. This view is the centerpiece of the newly created Berryessa-Snow Mountain Wilderness. The trek is a 7.25-mile climb with a cumulative elevation gain of 3,500 feet to get there. Got that? You pay for your pleasure. The trailhead is remote, and at one time, very difficult to find. Now there are a few signs, and a few posts with the letters “BPT.” Only nearby transmitters on the top mar a foothill-country wilderness-like experience.
The trip starts off Knoxville Road; look for mile marker 20 and the sign. The trail climbs up a former dirt road, and 1.5 miles in, you’ll arrive at a junction. Turn south and the climb takes on butt-kicker proportions to a fence crossing. The road turns then turns to trail, where to your disbelief, you will then descend (!) into Green Valley. So frustrating. Finally, you start to climb again to the ridge. The last mile is on the service road built for the transmitter stations. Most credit the organization Tuleyome (www.tuleyome.org), which helps gets youth outdoors, for the trail construction. In spring, wildflowers are ablaze and bushes and trees in full bloom, and clear skies provide long-distance views. You’ll see songbirds, swallows, falcons, and eagles flitting, hovering, and soaring. There is also a good share of lizards and rattlesnakes.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs (not advised, no water in summer). Horses and mountain bikes, while allowed, aren’t recommended because of the steep, rocky terrain. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Glascock.
Directions: From Sacramento or the Bay Area, drive to Lake Berryessa and continue to Berryessa-Knoxville Road that runs above the western shore of the lake. Continue north on Berryessa-Knoxville Road past Lake Berryessa (past the bridge over Putah Creek) and continue north as the road turns to dirt, narrows, gets rough, and becomes Knoxville Road (pay attention to mile marker signs). Continue to mile marker 20.00 and park on the road’s shoulder. The trailhead is on the right.
Contact: Bureau of Land Management, Ukiah Field Office, Ukiah, 707/468-4000, www.ca.blm.gov.
8.9 mi/1 day
in Austin Creek State Recreation Area north of Guerneville
The Gilliam Creek Trail is very pretty in late winter and spring. For much of the route, the trail parallels Gilliam Creek amid shaded oak woodlands. The area has more of a wilderness feel than most parks in this habitat because you drive through redwoods to get here, and in addition, the final 2.5 miles of access road are narrow and twisty. The trailhead elevation is 1,100 feet. You contour across the slope, then drop down to the headwaters of Schoolhouse Creek, at 400 feet. The trail then follows the stream, past the confluence with Gilliam Creek, and extends 3.7 miles into the backcountry, all the way down to an elevation of 200 feet. At the confluence of East Austin Creek, the best way to do it is to turn right and hike deeper into wild, hilly country along the stream. Then return on the loop with East Austin Creek Trail, a fire road with a—yep, by now you should have figured this out—long climb. At this point, you may ask, “Are we having fun yet?”
Visitors who love Armstrong Redwoods tend not to speak of the adjoining Austin Creek Recreation Area with any terms of endearment. The rolling hills, open forests, and streamside riparian habitat in Austin Creek State Recreation Area can seem a million miles away from the forests of Armstrong Redwoods. Yet the two parks together actually form 6,488 acres of contiguous parkland. While most tourists are walking around the redwoods at Armstrong, this trail offers a quiet and ambitious alternative.
User Groups: Hikers and horses (no horses permitted during wet weather). Mountain bikes permitted on fire roads. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $10 is charged for each vehicle. A senior discount is available.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Guerneville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Follow that exit, turn left on River Road, and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive a short distance to Armstrong Woods Road. Turn right (north) on Armstrong Woods Road and drive into Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve entrance, then continue about four miles into adjoining Austin Creek Recreation Area and to the trailhead. The last 2.5 miles are twisty and narrow; no trailers or vehicles more than 20 feet long are permitted.
Contact: Austin Creek State Recreation Area, c/o Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve, Guerneville, 707/869-2015, www.parks.ca.gov.
6.8 mi/4.0 hr
in Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve north of Guerneville
The East Ridge Trail rises 1,400 feet over the course of 3.4 miles. Your reward is a series of lookouts over the top of a sea of redwoods below. The trailhead is at an elevation of 200 feet, adjacent to Fife Creek. The route climbs gradually at first, then in the first 0.5 mile rises to cross the headwaters of Fife Creek, at an elevation of 600 feet. Your climb has only just begun, and if you’re already running out of gas, you’d best head back. The trail continues climbing all the way, contouring its way up toward McCray Mountain (1,940 feet), and tops out at a service road at 1,600 feet.
For short strolls through the park’s redwoods, take the Discovery Trail or Armstrong Nature Trail in Armstrong Redwoods.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $10 is charged for each vehicle. A senior discount is available.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Guerneville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Go right on Highway 116 and drive a short distance to Armstrong Woods Road. Turn right (north) on Armstrong Woods Road and drive 2.5 miles to the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve entrance. The trailhead is adjacent to the visitors center.
Contact: Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, Guerneville, 707/869-2015, www.parks.ca.gov.
10.2 mi/4.5 hr
in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park north of Calistoga
Mount St. Helena is Sonoma County’s highest mountain, the peak that strikes such a memorable silhouette when viewed from the Bay Area. This trail climbs to the 4,343-foot summit and requires an ascent of 2,068 feet over the course of five miles. On the crystal days of early spring, the views can make life seem complete. On the best days, 150 miles to the east, you can see the snow glisten white on the Sierra Crest. To the south, Mount Tamalpais and Mount Diablo rise up above the Bay Area. Lake Berryessa is below to the east, and the Napa Valley plunges to the south. Several times in the spring, we’ve seen the clear outline of Lassen Peak to the northeast. Of similar interest is the view of the fire damage, rapidly returning to life with greenery amid tree skeletons, where wildfires burned below on southern flank of St. Helena and beyond so much of the foothill country extending to Santa Rosa.
The Mount St. Helena Trail starts along Highway 29 at the ridge above the Calistoga Valley. From the trailhead, the route emerges from oak woodlands on a dirt service road. The climb is a steady pull, with two steep spots. Four miles in, continue straight at a junction to the North Peak (a left will take you instead to 4,003-foot South Peak). Strong hikers will make the summit in about 2.5 to 3 hours, with the last half hour strenuous, and then for the easy return trip, sail down in about 1.5 to 2 hours. In spring, bring a windbreaker for often chilly breezes out of the north on top and a change of shirt; you will likely sweat through whatever you are wearing on the climb, especially if you carry a pack.
Visibility is best in spring, when north winds clear the air, showcasing remarkable views in all directions. Bill Grummer, a ranger pal, claims that on the best days visitors can see Mount Shasta (192 miles away), but so far we haven’t had that experience. However, it is documented that in the late 19th century, surveyors sent signals back and forth between here and Mount Shasta, setting a record for longest signal distance. On other stellar days, you can see the Farallon Islands, 25 miles offshore from San Francisco, and a glimpse of the city itself (but not the Golden Gate Bridge).
History lesson: The park is named “Robert Louis Stevenson State Park” because in 1880, this is where Stevenson, the author of Treasure Island, spent his summer honeymoon in a cabin (long since gone). The cabin site is off a spur (hikers only), 1.5 miles in, marked along the trail to the top.
In the summer, the hike can be pure hell: Much of the trail is actually a fire road with little shade, there’s no water anywhere along the route, and the heat commonly blazes in the 90s and 100s out here. After logging weather records for years, we have found the most likely time for Mount St. Helena to receive snow is just before a full moon in February.
User Groups: Hikers only on single-track trail. Mountain bikes allowed on a nearby fire road 0.25 mile north on Highway 29. No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and map are available at the park for a fee. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Detert Reservoir and Mount St. Helena.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 north for eight miles to the parking area at the highway summit, signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The trailhead is next to the parking area. You can park on the east or west side of the road. The trail is located on the west side of the road (the trailhead is not signed from the road).
Contact: Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, c/o Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, 707/942-4575; www.parks.ca.gov; Calistoga info, 866/306-5588, www.visitcalistoga.com.
4.0-8.0 mi/2.0-4.0 hr
near Calistoga
This trip can be done two ways: a four-mile round-trip to Table Rock and back or an eight-mile round-trip to the southern edge of the Palisades and back (recommended). The Palisades? Aren’t the Palisades a glacier-carved series of 14,000-foot peaks in the Sierra Nevada? Well, yep, but Napa County’s Palisades are nearly as dramatic and accessible year-round: This is a stunning, mile-long volcanic wall set along a ridge that overlooks Calistoga and the Napa Valley. You also get gorgeous long-distance views. In addition, this trail is one of the best near Calistoga for seeing raptors, including a chance to spot peregrine falcons, and also for wildflowers, with bitterroot the most prevalent.
From Calistoga, it’s a twisty, eight-mile drive up Highway 29 to the parking area and trailhead, the same staging area used for the Mount St. Helena Trail. It is signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. To hike to Table Rock and the Palisades, the trailhead is on the right (southeast) side of the road (elevation 2,250 feet). Start this hike on the Table Rock Trail. It’s about two miles to Table Rock (2,465 feet), just enough of a climb to get you above the canyon woodlands. Some enjoy the views from atop Table Rock, have a picnic, and then head back to the car. But the trip gets better by continuing on the Palisades Trail. This drops down to Lasky Point (2,045 feet), and then climbs back up for about two miles along the base of the Palisades (2,930 feet). The trail is spectacular, set just beneath the sheer volcanic cliffs along the ridge. At 3.9 miles in, you will reach the junction of Historic Oat Hill Mine Road, a long-abandoned, rocky jeep road. Most people turn around and head back from here.
Note than Oat Hill Mine Road is the route down to the valley for a one-way hike with a shuttle. But it plummets 2,000 feet over 4.5 miles, some of it rocky, and can be a thigh-burning, knee-wrenching, toe-jamming experience that’s only for the deranged (like us, for instance).
The best time for this getaway is from mid-March through mid-May, when the foothills are green, the skies are often crystal clear, and the morning air is still cool. There is no drinking water available anywhere on the trail. Rangers warn not to leave valuables in your car (covering them with a jacket or blanket isn’t enough, either). Calistoga is one of the best decompression chambers designed by humankind. But after a day or two of getting turned into Jell-O by soaks in steaming mineral water, massages, and mud baths, you can be brought back to life by the electrifying hike to the Palisades.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and map are available for a fee at the park or by mail. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Detert Reservoir and Mount St. Helena.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 north for eight miles to the parking area at the highway summit, signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The trailhead is on the right (southeast) side of the road.
Contact: Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, c/o Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, Calistoga, 707/942-4575, www.parks.ca.gov.
4.4 mi/3.0 hr
in Bothe-Napa Valley State Park south of Calistoga
The best way to see the surprise redwoods and pretty creek at Bothe-Napa Valley State Park is on the Coyote Peak/Redwood Trail Loop. Start just past the Ritchey Creek Campground turnoff, near the picnic area. The first 0.5 mile is on the Ritchey Canyon Trail, a very pretty stretch of trail along beautiful Ritchey Creek. Then bear left on the Redwood Trail. You’ll be surrounded by some of the park’s highest stands of redwoods. The trail continues along Ritchey Creek for 0.25 mile, then connects to the Coyote Peak Trail. Ritchey Creek is one of our favorite stretches of the trail in the region, always good for a snack and a moment in time. Then continue on the Coyote Peak Trail, which rises quickly, skirting the northern flank of Coyote Peak. (A short spur trail will take you all the way to the top, elevation 1,170 feet.) Then the trail drops down the other side of the hill and intersects with South Fork Trail, which heads all the way back down to Ritchey Creek. From the trailhead to the end of the hike, the elevation gain is roughly 800 feet, totaling the up-and-downs.
Who ever heard of redwoods in the Napa Valley? Who ever heard of a mountain peak there, too? Only those who also know of Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, which is like an island of wildland in a sea of winery tourist traffic. Bothe-Napa has some of the most easterly stands of coastal redwoods, plus Douglas fir and an excellent lookout from Coyote Peak, all quite a surprise for newcomers. Note that temperatures can be extremely hot in the summer—as high as 105 degrees in unshaded areas—but you’ll find a cool paradise along Ritchey Creek.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses permitted on some designated trails. Mountain bikes allowed on fire roads and designated trails but not on most of this described loop. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Calistoga.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 south for about five miles to the park entrance on the right side of the road. Turn right and drive past the entrance station to just past the Ritchey Creek Campground turnoff (near the picnic area), where there is trailhead parking.
Contact: Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, Calistoga, 707/942-4575, www.parks.ca.gov; park operated by Napa County Regional Park & Open Space District, https://napaoutdoors.org.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Spring Lake Regional Park in Santa Rosa
Spring Lake is Santa Rosa’s backyard fishing hole, a popular place for trout fishing, an evening picnic, or a short hike. For newcomers, we suggest you take the walk along the west shore of Spring Lake. From the parking area, start this trip by walking along the shore to Spring Lake’s west dam. Then turn left and head into adjoining Howarth Park and on to Lake Ralphine. It’s an easy, enjoyable stroll. The lake is stocked with trout in winter and spring, and it provides a fair fishery for bass in the summer. The water is fun and quiet, with boats restricted to electric motors; no gas motors are allowed. The elevation is 300 feet, and the trail is mostly level.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Horses are allowed only on designated trails. The park has 2.3 miles of trail that are paved for wheelchair and bicycle use.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a parking fee of $7 per vehicle.
Maps: A free trail map is available from Spring Lake Regional Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Santa Rosa.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take Highway 12 east (it becomes Hoen Avenue) to Newanga Avenue. Turn left on Newanga Avenue and drive 0.5 mile to the park entrance. The various trailheads are well marked and easily accessible from the parking area at the lake.
Contact: Spring Lake Regional Park, c/o Sonoma County Regional Parks, Santa Rosa, 707/539-8092; Sonoma County Regional Parks Department, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
8.2 mi/1 day
in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park north of Sonoma
Bald Mountain, elevation 2,729 feet, overlooks the Napa Valley, with Mount St. Helena to the north. This old mountain is the centerpiece of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, a 4,020-acre expanse featuring redwoods in the Sonoma Creek watershed, open meadows peppered with oaks on the hilltops, and some chaparral on ridges. On clear days from the summit, you can see portions of the San Francisco Bay Area and then be thankful you’re here instead.
The most ambitious hike in the park is the Bald Mountain Loop, an 8.2-mile trek. The trail starts at the parking lot and then is routed into a loop by linking the Bald Mountain, Gray Pine, Brushy Peaks, and Meadow Trails. Many less-demanding hikes are available in the park, but this route will give hikers the greatest sense of the park’s wildest lands. It’s best hiked in the spring, when the air is still cool, the hills are green, and the wildflowers are in bloom.
There’s a bonus as well: When Sonoma Creek is really flowing, a 25-foot waterfall set in a wooded canyon tumbles downstream from the campground; a short trail is available from the park’s entrance road, located at an unsigned turnout on the road’s shoulder. A more formal route to the waterfall is on Canyon Trail.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on trails in summer and on fire roads in the park in winter. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A trail map and brochure are available for a fee from Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Kenwood.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take Highway 12 east through Kenwood to Adobe Canyon Road. Turn left on Adobe Canyon Road and drive 3.5 miles to the main park entrance at the end of the road.
Contact: Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, 2605 Adobe Canyon Rd., Kenwood, CA 95452, 707/833-5712, www.parks.ca.gov.
7.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Sonoma Mountain Regional Park east of Rohnert Park
From the Ridge Trail on North Sonoma Mountain, you will discover why this trek can appeal to anybody. A Gunsight Rock, at 2,500 feet, you emerge above a hardwood forest for a towering view across the Sonoma Valley and to the west to the coast. The trailhead for Hood Mountain is the Goodspeed Trail on the main road to Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. In the first mile, you cross Bear Creek, and then climb about 400 feet, with switchbacks to ease the grade, to reach a sub-ridge. You then continue 2.5 miles on the flank of Mount Hood and into Hood Mountain Regional Park to the turnoff to Gunsight Rock. A spur leads 0.2 to this lookout. Back on the main trail, it’s just another 0.2 miles (with a 200-foot climb) to Mount Hood Summit. You tower over Kenwood and above the Sonoma Valley.
User Groups: Hikers and horses only. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: It is $8 per vehicle at the iron ranger (bring exact cash) at Goodspeed trailhead; automated pay station at upper park entrance (credit card, exact cash); kiosk staffed most weekends and all holidays.
Maps: Small map available at trailhead kiosk; PDF online at http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/.
Directions: From the Golden Gate Bridge, take U.S. 101 north for 20 miles (stay right) to Exit 460A for Highway 37. Follow that exit and merge with Highway 37 and drive 7.2 miles (stay left) to the lighted intersection of Highway 121. Turn left on Highway 121 and drive 6.6 miles, then continue onto Highway 116W and drive 1.6 miles to Arnold Drive. Bear right on Arnold and drive five miles to a traffic circle. Take the first exit onto Agua Caliente Road and drive 0.8 miles to Highway 12. Turn left on 12 and drive 8.1 miles to Adobe Canyon Road. Turn right and drive 2.3 miles to the boundary for Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and parking for Goodspeed trailhead on the left.
Note: Park headquarters is 1.1 miles farther up Adobe Canyon Road.
Contact: Sonoma County Regional Parks, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov; Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, 707-833-5712, www.parks.ca.gov.