2Activities

oSanduny BathsBATHHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-782 1808; www.sanduny.ru; ul Neglinnaya 14; R1800-2800; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon, second male top class 10am-midnight Tue-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; mKuznetsky Most)

Sanduny is the oldest and most luxurious banya (hot bath) in the city. The Gothic Room is a work of art with its rich woodcarving, while the main shower room has an aristocratic Roman feel to it. There are several classes, as on trains; regulars say that second male top class is actually better than the premium class.

Moscow Bike ToursCYCLING

(%8-916-970 1419; www.moscowbiketours.com; 2½hr tour US$40-60)

Cover more ground and see more sights, while getting fresh air and a bit of exercise: that's a win-win-win! On the recommended 2½-hour bike tour, you'll enjoy magnificent views of Moscow from Krymskaya embankment, riding through Gorky Park and all the way down to Sparrow Hills, before crossing into Khamovniki. Day and evening rides offered; extended tour available on weekends.

Moscow Free TourWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-222 3466; www.moscowfreetour.com; Nikolskaya ul 4/5; guided walk free, paid tours from €31)

Every day these enthusiastic ladies offer an informative, inspired 2½-hour guided walk around Red Square and Kitay Gorod – and it's completely free. It's so good that (they hope) you'll sign up for one of their excellent paid tours, covering the Kremlin, the Arbat and the Metro, or themes such as communist Moscow.

Moscow 360WALKING

(%8-985-447 8688; www.moscow360.org; tours per group from R2000)

Paul is a private guide who offers excellent and entertaining walking tours in the centre, including the standards like a metro tour and a communist history tour. His speciality, however, is the AK-47 tour, which takes you to a shooting range to learn all about the infamous AK weapons and take a few shots yourself.

Kremlin Tour with DianaHISTORY

(%8-965-150 0071; www.kremlintour.com)

Diana Zalenskaya and her team offer private tours of the Kremlin (with or without the Armoury included). Recommended.

Luzhniki Aqua ComplexSWIMMING

(Аквакомплекс Лужники MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aqua-luzhniki.ru; Luzhnetskaya nab 24; per hr R1200-1500; h7am-11pm; mVorobyovy Gory)

On the grounds of the Luzhniki Olympic Complex, the main venue for the 1980 Olympics, this aquatic facility includes a collection of swimming pools that are open year-round. There is a 50m lap pool and a kid-friendly recreational area, as well as table tennis, volleyball and a training room and sauna.

Krasnopresnkiye BanyBATHHOUSE

(Краснопресненские бани MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %men's banya 495-255 5306, women's banya 495-253 8690; www.baninapresne.ru; Stolyarny per 7; R1400-1900; h8am-11pm; mUlitsa 1905 Goda)

Lacking an old-fashioned, decadent atmosphere, this modern, clean, efficient place nonetheless provides a first-rate banya (hot-bath) experience. The facility has a Russian steam room, a Finnish sauna, a plunge pool and massage services.

Oliver BikesCYCLING

(Оливер Байкс MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-340 2609; www.bikerentalmoscow.com; Pyatnitskaya ul 3/4, str 2; per hr/day from R500/1200, tours per group R6000; h10am-11pm; mNovokuznetskaya)

Oliver rents all kinds of two-wheeled vehicles, including cruisers, mountain bikes, folding bikes and tandem bikes, all of which are in excellent condition. Its location is convenient for rides along the Moscow River. Oliver also offers weekend bike tours, but only occasionally in English.

DON'T MISS

TSARITSYNO PALACE

On a wooded hill in far southeast Moscow, Tsaritsyno Palace is a modern-day manifestation of the exotic summer home that Catherine the Great began in 1775, but never finished. For hundreds of years, the palace was little more than a shell, until the Russian government finally decided to finish it in 2007.

Nowadays, the Great Palace is a fantastical building that combines old Russian, Gothic, classical and Arabic styles. Inside, exhibits are dedicated to the history of Tsaritsyno, as well as the life of Catherine the Great. The extensive grounds include some other lovely buildings.

From Orekhovo metro station, walk towards the ponds past an open-air stage, where old folks gather to dance to 1960s tunes in summer, then turn right towards the palace.

TTours

Remote MoscowTOURS

(http://remote-moscow.ru/eng; per person R2000; hshows Thu-Sun)

City tour meets theatre in this performance/quest, available in many places around the world, now including Moscow. The 90-minute walk takes participants through a series of interactions and encounters from the gates of a cemetery into the centre of the city. All you need to do is come to the starting point, put on headphones and follow the instructions.

Moscow ManiaTOURS

(www.mosmania.com; 2hr walk from R3500)

This is a team of historians (with PhDs and everything) who are passionate about their city and their subject. They have designed 50-plus tours on specialised topics – or they will customise one for you. Private tours for up to eight people.

Moscow ArchiGeekTOURS

(Москва Глазами Инженера %499-322 2325; www.archigeek.ru; tours from R1200)

These architectural tours around Moscow hit some unusual destinations indeed, such as the modernist Chaika swimming pool or the clock tower of Kievsky vokzal. Most are in Russian, but there are English-language tours to VDNKh, Narkomfin and St Basil's Cathedral.

Also goes by the name 'Moscow Through the Eyes of an Engineer' (www.engineer-history.ru).

Patriarshy Dom ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-795 0927; www.toursinrussia.com; Moscow School No 1239, Vspolny per 6; Moscow tours from US$22, day trips from US$65; mBarrikadnaya)

Provides a changing schedule of specialised tours of local museums, specific neighbourhoods and unusual themes, as well as out-of-town trips to the Golden Ring towns and other day-trip destinations. Occasionally takes groups inside the Great Kremlin Palace, which is otherwise closed to the public. Pick up the monthly schedule at upscale hotels or view it online.

2City Walk
Metro Tour: Underground Art

Start Komsomolskaya

End Park Pobedy

Distance 18km, one to two hours

Every day, as many as seven million people ride the Moscow metro. What’s more, this transport system marries function and form: many of the stations are marble-faced, frescoed, gilded works of art. Take this tour for an overview of Moscow's most interesting and impressive metro stations.

Start at 1Komsomolskaya, where the red line (Sokolnicheskaya liniya) intersects with the Ring line (Koltsevaya liniya). Both stations are named for the youth workers who helped with early construction. In the red line station, look for the Komsomol emblem at the top of the limestone pillars and the majolica-tile panel showing the volunteers hard at work.

From Komsomolskaya, proceed anti-clockwise around the Ring line, getting off at each stop along the way.

Originally named for the nearby MGU Botanical Garden, 2Prospekt Mira features elegant, white-porcelain depictions of figures planting trees, bringing in the harvest and generally living in harmony.

3Novoslobodskaya is enveloped in the art-nouveau artistry of 32 stained-glass panels. Six windows depict the so-called intellectual professions: architect, geographer, agronomist, engineer, artist and musician. At one end of the central hall is the mosaic Peace in the Whole World. The pair of white doves was a later addition to the mosaic, replacing a portrait of Stalin.

At 4Belorusskaya the ceiling mosaics celebrate the culture, economy and history of Russia’s neighbour to the west. The 12 ceiling panels illustrate different aspects of their culture, while the floor pattern reproduces traditional Belarusian ornamentation.

Switch here to the green Zamoskvoretskaya line (where the Belarusian theme continues) and travel south.

5Mayakovskaya is the pièce de résistance of the Moscow metro. The grand-prize winner at the 1938 World’s Fair in New York has an art-deco central hall that’s all pink rhodonite, with slender, steel columns. The inspiring, upward-looking mosaics on the ceiling depict 24 Hours in the Land of the Soviets. This is also one of the deepest stations (33m), which allowed it to serve as an air-raid shelter during WWII.

The decor at 6Teatralnaya follows a theatrical theme. The porcelain figures represent seven of the Soviet republics by wearing national dress and playing musical instruments from their homeland.

Change here to 7Ploshchad Revolyutsii on line three (the dark-blue Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya line). This dramatic station is basically an underground sculpture gallery. The life-sized bronze statues represent the roles played by the people during the revolution and in the 'new world' that comes after. Heading up the escalators, the themes are: revolution, industry, agriculture, hunting, education, sport and child rearing. Touch the nose of the border guard’s dog for good luck on exams. Take the dark-blue line heading west.

Shallow 8Arbatskaya was damaged by a German bomb in 1941. The station was closed and a parallel line was built much deeper. Service was restored on the shallow line the following decade, which explains the existence of two Arbatskaya stations (and two Smolenskaya stations, for that matter) on two different lines.

At 250m, Arbatskaya is one of the longest stations. A braided moulding emphasises the arched ceiling, while red marble and detailed ornamentation give the whole station a baroque atmosphere.

At 9Kievskaya, the elegant white-marble hall is adorned with a Kyivan-style ornamental frieze, while the frescoed panels depict farmers in folk costume, giant vegetables and other aspects of the idyllic Ukrainian existence. The fresco at the end of the hall celebrates 300 years of Russian-Ukrainian cooperation. Ironic.

The newer aPark Pobedy opened after the complex at Poklonnaya Gora, which commemorated the 50th anniversary of the victory in the Great Patriotic War. Moscow's deepest metro station it has the longest escalators in the world. The enamel panels at either end of the hall (created by Zurab Tsereteli) depict the victories of 1812 and 1945.

From here you can return to the centre by retracing your ride on the dark-blue line.

zFestivals & Events

Winter FestivalCULTURAL

(hDec/Jan)

An outdoor fun-fest for two weeks in December and January, for those with antifreeze in their veins. Admire the elaborate ice sculptures on Red Square, stand in a crowd of snowmen on ul Arbat and ride the troika at Izmailovsky Park.

Golden Mask FestivalTHEATRE

(www.goldenmask.ru; hMar-Apr)

This festival involves two months of performances by Russia’s premier drama, opera, dance and musical performers, culminating in a prestigious awards ceremony in April.

Chekhov International Theatre FestivalTHEATRE

(www.chekhovfest.ru; hmid-May–mid-Jun)

In odd-numbered years, theatre troupes descend on Moscow from all corners of the world for this renowned biennial festival. Drama and musical theatre performances are held at participating venues around town, from mid-May to mid-June.

Moscow International Film FestivalFILM

(www.moscowfilmfestival.ru; hJun/Jul)

This 10-day event in June/July attracts filmmakers from the US and Europe, as well as the most promising Russian artists. Films are shown at theatres around the city.

City DayCULTURAL

(hSep)

City Day, or den goroda in Russian, celebrates Moscow’s birthday on the first weekend in September. The day kicks off with a festive parade, followed by live music on Red Square and plenty of food, fireworks and fun.

Moscow Biennale of Contemporary ArtART

(www.moscowbiennale.ru; hSep)

This month-long festival, held in odd-numbered years in September (and sometimes in different months), has played a key role in establishing the capital as an international centre for contemporary art. Venues around the city exhibit works by artists from around the world.

December Nights FestivalART, MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.arts-museum.ru; hDec)

This prestigious annual festival in December is hosted at the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, with a month of performances by high-profile musicians and accompanying art exhibits.

MOSCOW FOR CHILDREN

The Russian capital might not seem like an appealing destination for kids, but you’d be surprised. In Moscow, little people will find museums, parks, theatres and even restaurants that cater especially to them.

Sights & Activities

With over 100 parks and gardens, Moscow has plenty of space for children to let off steam. Many have playgrounds, while larger spaces such as Gorky Park and Vorobyovy Gory Nature Preserve rent bicycles, paddle boats and such. There are also plenty of kid-friendly museums, including places such as the Experimentanium (Экспериментаниум MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-789 3658; www.experimentanium.ru; ul Butyrskaya 46/2; adult/child R650/550; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; c; mSavyolovskaya) and Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines.

Most sights and museums offer reduced-rate tickets for children up to 12 or 18 years of age. Kids younger than five are often free of charge. Look out for family tickets.

Eating

Many restaurants host 'children’s parties' on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, offering toys, games, entertainment and supervision for kids while their parents eat.

Restaurants such as Anderson for Pop (Андерсон для Пап MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-753 1601; www.cafe-anderson.ru; Malaya Gruzinskaya ul 15/1; mains R390-620; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; c; mBarrikadnaya) and Professor Puf have dedicated play areas for children. At Elardzhi, kids frolic in the courtyard with playground and petting zoo.

Entertainment

Children will see hundreds of puppets at the Obraztsov Puppet Museum (Театр и музей кукол Образцова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-699 5373; www.puppet.ru; Sadovaya-Samotechnaya ul 3; hbox office 11am-2.30pm & 3.30-7pm; mTsvetnoy Bulvar), then see them come to life at the attached theatre.

Choose between two acclaimed circuses: Bolshoi Circus on Vernadskogo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-930 0300; www.greatcircus.ru; pr Vernadskogo 7; tickets R600-3000; hshows 7pm Wed, 1pm & 5pm Sat, 3pm Sun; c; mUniversitet) and Nikulin Circus on Tsvetnoy Bulvar (Цирк Никулина на Цветном бульваре MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-625 8970; www.circusnikulin.ru; Tsvetnoy bul 13; tickets R400-2500; hbox office 11am-2pm & 3-7pm; mTsvetnoy Bulvar). The acrobatics will astound and amaze, while clowns and animal tricks will leave them laughing.

Local legend Natalya Sats founded the Moscow Children's Musical Theatre (Детский Музыкальный театр им. Н.И.Сац MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-120 2515; www.teatr-sats.ru; pr Vernadskogo 5; tickets R500-1500; hbox office noon-7pm; c; mUniversitet) to entertain and educate children with song and dance.

Transport

The metro might be fun for young ones, but be careful during rush hour, when trains and platforms are packed. Both Lingo Taxi and Detskoe Taxi will look out for your children, offering smoke-free cars and child seats upon request.

4Sleeping

Hotels have become more affordable for foreigners, due to the weak rouble, but Moscow is still not a cheap place to sleep. The city is flush with international luxury hotels. A slew of good hostels have opened, and more midrange accommodation is now also appearing, usually in the form of 'mini-hotels'. Prices include the 18% value-added tax (VAT), but not the 5% sales tax, which is charged mainly at luxury hotels.

The following prices refer to a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast is not included unless otherwise indicated.

€ less than R3000

€€ R3000–15,000

€€€ more than R15,000

AIRPORT ACCOMMODATION

Recommended for transit travellers who need to crash between flights, both these hotels operate free shuttlebuses from their respective airports.

Aerotel Domodedovo (Аэротель Домодедово GOOGLE MAP ; %495-795 3868; www.airhotel.ru; Domodedovo airport; r R5200; paiW) Small but satisfactory rooms, plus a fitness centre and billiards room.

Atlanta Sheremetyevo Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %499-647 5947; www.atlanta-hotel.ru; 7 Severnaya ul, Sheremetyevsky; s/d R2500/3700; naW) Friendly, small and convenient, the Atlanta is an anomaly in the airport world. Reduced rates are available for six- and 12-hour layovers.

Kremlin & Kitay Gorod

oHotel MetropolHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-501 7800; www.metropol-moscow.ru; Teatralny proezd 1/4; r from R10,000; naWs; mTeatralnaya)

Nothing short of an art nouveau masterpiece, the 1907 Metropol brings an artistic, historic touch to every nook and cranny, from the spectacular exterior to the grand lobby and the individually decorated (but small) rooms. The breakfast buffet (R2250) is quite an affair, with an extravagant feast served under the restaurant's gorgeous stained-glass ceiling.

Kitay-Gorod HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Китай-Город MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-991 9971; www.otel-kg.ru; Lubyansky proezd 25; s R2900-6500, d R3700-8000; aW; mKitay-Gorod)

A rare chance for budget-conscious travellers to stay this close to Red Square, with easy access to the metro and many nearby restaurants. Forty-six small but comfortable rooms are situated on two floors of this residential building. The location can be noisy: it's worth requesting air-con as you'll want to keep your windows closed. Prices are lower on weekends.

Four Seasons MoscowHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-277 7100; www.fourseasons.com; Okhotny ryad 2; r from R27,000; aWs; mOkhotny Ryad)

Long a fixture on the Moscow skyline, the infamous Hotel Moskva was demolished in 2003, but Four Seasons reconstructed the old exterior, complete with architectural quirks. The updated interior, of course, is contemporary and classy, with over 200 luxurious rooms and suites, as well as a fancy spa and a glass-roofed swimming pool.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

Some entrepreneurial Muscovites rent out apartments on a short-term basis. Flats are equipped with kitchens and laundry facilities, and they almost always offer wi-fi access. The rental agency usually makes arrangements for the flat to be cleaned every day or every few days. Often, a good-sized flat is available for the price of a hotel room, or less. It is an ideal solution for families or travellers in a small group.

Prices for apartments start at around R5000 per night. Expect to pay more for fully renovated, Western-style apartments. Although there are usually discounts for longer stays, they are not significant, so these services are not ideal for long-term renters.

AMoscow Suites (%495-233 6429; www.moscowsuites.ru; studios from US$100; W) Slick apartments in central locations on Tverskaya or Novy Arbat. Airport pick-up and visa support are included in the price.

AIntermark Hospitality (%495-221 8922; www.intermarksa.ru; 1-/2-room apt from R5800/6800; W) Catering mostly to business travellers, Intermark offers four-star accommodation in the city centre.

AEnjoy Moscow (%8-916-976 4807; www.enjoymoscow.com; apt from US$120; W) Has a range of apartments in the Tverskoy district. Apartments vary in size and decor, but the company provides responsive, reliable service.

AHOFA (%8-911-766 5464; www.hofa.ru; s/d from €33/52, apt €44-67; W) Authentic (and affordable) stays in a Russian family's apartment (with or without the family).

AMoscow4rent.com (%495-225 5405; www.moscow4rent.com; studios from US$83) Centrally located flats, with internet, satellite TV and unlimited international phone calls.

Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky

Bolshoi HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-926-135 4687; www.hostelbolshoi.ru; ul Petrovskiye Linii 1; dm from R700; mTrubnaya)

It might be just a hostel – bunk beds, shared showers and all that – but the location is indeed five-star, amid boutiques, fancy restaurants and luxury hotels in the city's ritziest district. This new establishment, with circa 50 beds and a large kitchen area, occupies a former communal flat in a stately 19th-century residential building.

Godzillas HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-699 4223; www.godzillashostel.com; Bolshoy Karetny per 6; dm R700-950, s/d R2200/2800; aiW; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

Tried and true, Godzillas is Moscow's best-known hostel, with dozens of beds spread out over four floors. The rooms come in various sizes, but they are all spacious and light-filled and painted in different colours. To cater to the many guests, there are bathroom facilities on each floor, three kitchens and a big living room with satellite TV.

Chocolate HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-446 1778; www.chocohostel.com; Degtyarny per 15, apt 4; dm R600-700, tw/tr R2600/3300; iW; mPushkinskaya)

Chocolate lovers rejoice – this charming hostel will soothe your craving. Bring your favourite brand from home for their collection. In return you’ll get simple, friendly accommodation – colourfully painted rooms with metal furniture and old-style parquet floors. Bonus: bikes available for rent!

Golden AppleBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-980 7000; www.goldenapple.ru; ul Malaya Dmitrovka 11; d from R5100; naW; mPushkinskaya)

A classical edifice fronts the street, but the interior is sleek and sophisticated. The rooms are decorated in a minimalist, modern style – subdued whites and greys punctuated by contrasting coloured drapes and funky light fixtures. Comfort is paramount, with no skimping on luxuries such as heated bathroom floors and down-filled duvets.

Guest House AmelieGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-650 1789; www.hotel-amelie.ru; Strastnoy bul 4, str 3, apt 17; r from R5000; W; mChekhovskaya)

Amelie benefits from its superb location right by Pushkinskaya pl – it's unlikely you will find a room much cheaper than this in the vicinity, and it's a very nicely furnished room, too! On the downside, the hotel is a converted apartment, which means shared bathrooms and an unmarked entrance located on per Kozitsky.

Pushkin HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Пушкин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-201 0222; http://otel-pushkin.ru; Nastasyinsky per 5 1; r from R4500; aW; mPushkinskaya)

Just off the eponymous square, this hotel strives to fuse 19th-century style with the modern perception of comfort. We'd call it plush, if not for the tiny, B&B-style reception area. There is a restaurant on the premises, but no need to use it since the area is packed with great places to eat and drink.

Hotel SavoyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(Отель Савой MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-620 8500; www.savoy.ru; ul Rozhdestvenka 3; r from R13,000; naWs; mLubyanka)

Built in 1912, the Savoy maintains an atmosphere of tsarist-era privilege for its guests, and is more intimate and affordable than other luxury hotels. All rooms are equipped with marble bathrooms and Italian fittings and furnishings. The state-of-the-art health club includes a glass-domed 20m swimming pool, complete with geysers and cascades to refresh tired bodies.

Meshchansky & Basmanny

Fasol HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-240 9409; http://fasol.co; Arkhangelsky per 11/16 str 3; dm from R900, d with shared bathroom R3100; mChistye Prudy)

The entrance to this hostel, hidden in the courtyards amid 19th-century apartment blocks, looks unassuming. However, with over 80 beds, this popular and professionally run place is a major-league player. Dorms, sleeping six to eight, are decorated with psychedelic wall paintings; bunk beds come with body-friendly mattresses, curtains and individual lights, allowing guests to enjoy full autonomy.

Comrade HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-709 8760; www.comradehostel.com; ul Maroseyka 11; dm/s/d R750/2400/2900; niW; mKitay-Gorod)

It’s hard to find this tiny place – go into the courtyard and look for entrance No 3, where you might spot a computer-printed sign in the 3rd-floor window. Inside is a great welcoming atmosphere, although the place is usually packed. Ten to 12 beds are squeezed into the dorm rooms, plus there are mattresses on the floor if need be.

oBrick Design HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-110 2470; www.brickhotel.ru; Myasnitskaya ul 24/7 str 3/4; s/d from R6200/7100; aW; mChistye Prudy)

Not only is this boutique hotel cosy, thoughtfully designed and very centrally located, it also doubles as an art gallery, with original works by Russian 20th-century conceptualist artists adorning the walls. That's in addition to a very tasteful combination of modern and antique furniture. Visitors also rave about the breakfast, which comes fresh from farms near Moscow.

Garden EmbassyHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-124 4095; http://ge-hotel.com; Botanichesky per 5; s/d from R6200/6700; aW; mProspekt Mira)

In a street lined with foreign embassies, this apartment hotel is indeed an embassy of style, with large and fully equipped apartments facing beautiful Aptekarsky Ogorod. A calming respite from the city.

Hilton Moscow LeningradskayaHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-627 5550; www.hilton.ru/hotels/hilton-moscow-leningradskaya; Kalanchevskaya ul 21/40; d from R6500; naW; mKomsomolskaya)

Occupying one of the iconic Stalinist skyscrapers, the old Leningradskaya Hotel is now part of the Hilton empire. The American chain has maintained the Soviet grandiosity in the lobby, but has updated the rooms with contemporary design and state-of-the-art amenities.

Sretenskaya HotelHOTEL$$

(Сретенская гостиница MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-933 5544; www.hotel-sretenskaya.ru; ul Sretenka 15; s/d from R4200/5200; naiW; mSukharevskaya)

Special for its small size and friendly staff, the Sretenskaya boasts a romantic Russian atmosphere. Rooms have high ceilings and tasteful, traditional decor. This place is particularly welcoming in winter, when you can warm your bones in the sauna, or soak up some sun in the tropical ‘winter garden’.

Hotel Sverchkov 8HOTEL$$

(Сверчков 8 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-625 4978; www.sverchkov-8.ru; Sverchkov per 8; s/d from R4200/4800; naW; mChistye Prudy)

This tiny 11-room hotel in a graceful 19th-century building is situated on a quiet residential lane. The hallways are lined with plants, and paintings by local artists adorn the walls. Though rooms have old-style bathrooms and faded furniture, this place is a rarity for its intimacy and homely feel.

Elokhovsky HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Елоховский MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-632 2300; www.elohotel.ru; ul Spartakovskaya 24; s/d R4500/5300; aW; mBaumanskaya)

Admittedly not very central and occupying the top floor of a shopping arcade, this hotel is nevertheless about the best value for money in Moscow. Rooms are painted in soothing colours, complemented by cityscapes of the world's major cities. The coffee machine in the lobby is available 24 hours. Baumanskaya metro and Yelokhovsky Cathedral are a stone's throw away.

Presnya

oLoft Hostel 77HOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-110 4228; www.hostel-77.com; Bldg 3a, Maly Gnezdnikovsky per 9; dm R1000-1400; W; mPushkinskaya)

This sweet spot offers stylish dorm rooms (if that's not an oxymoron), fully equipped with lockers, individual lights, orthopaedic mattresses and privacy curtains. Exposed brick walls and leather furniture create an attractive shabby-chic atmosphere. Multilingual staff and a super-central locale are added pluses. The only drawback is the lack of a kitchen, but the surrounding streets are packed with eateries.

High Level HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %+87-963-757 9533; www.hostelhl.ru; 43rd fl, bldg 2, Presnenskaya nab 6, Imperia Tower; dm R1500-1700, d R3800; aW; mDelovoy Tsentr)

Located 170m above the city, this place claims to be the world's first and only skyscraper hostel. What does this mean for you? An incredible panoramic city view from the common area. Rooms are furnished with sturdy wooden bunks, desks and lockers. Service is excellent, with breakfast and laundry included in the price.

oHotel de ParisBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-777 0052; www.cityhotelgroup.ru; Bldg 3, Bolshaya Bronnaya ul 23; d from R6800; paW; mPushkinskaya)

Steps from the hustle and bustle of Tverskaya, this is a delightfully stylish hotel tucked into a quiet courtyard off the Boulevard Ring. Situated on the lower floors, the rooms do not get much natural light, but they feature king-sized beds, whirlpool tubs and elegant design. Service is consistently friendly. Prices drop on weekends, offering terrific value.

Key Element HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Элемент MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-988 0064; www.key-element.ru; Bldg 5, Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 24/1; d R3800-4500; aW; mArbatskaya)

The location on trendy Bolshaya Nikitskaya is prime, and prices are unbeatable, so you'll forgive the side-street entrance and the fact that rooms can be rented by the hour. It's actually a perfectly respectable place, with spotless rooms, pleasant decor and helpful staff. The cheapest rooms are tiny, so unless you're travelling solo, you'll probably want to upgrade.

oHotel NationalHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-258 7000; www.national.ru; Mokhovaya ul 15/1; d with/without Kremlin views from R14,600/9700; aW; mOkhotny Ryad)

Now operated by Starwood Resorts, this 1903 beauty occupies a prime location at the base of Tverskaya ul, just across from Alexander Garden. As such, some rooms have magnificent views of the Kremlin (worth the extra roubles). Original artwork lines the walls and antique-style furnishings grace the premises. The rooms themselves are classically luxurious.

Arbat & Khamovniki

Jedi HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %929-681 0041; http://jedihostel.com; 4th fl, 2-y Smolensky per 1/4; dm/d from US$11/40; aiW; mSmolenskaya)

This place exudes (and requires) good vibes, with its wacky and wonderful mural-painted walls and pillow-strewn 'lounge zone'. Dorm beds are actually little 'pods' with shades that ensure complete privacy. Lockers, kitchen and laundry facilities are available. Get the door code before you show up.

oBulgakov Mini-HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-229 8018; www.bulgakovhotel.com; ul Arbat 49; s/d from R3600/4000; niW; mSmolenskaya)

The classy rooms, graced with high ceilings and Master and Margarita inspired art, are as good as it gets in Moscow for this price, especially considering the primo location. The bathrooms are tiny but they are private. Enter the courtyard from Plotnikov per and use entrance No 2.

oHotel GrafskiyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Отель Графский MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-677 5727; www.grafskiyhotel.ru; Bldg 5, ul Lva Tolstogo 23; s R6000-8000, d R7700-9000; paW; mPark Kultury)

Live next door to Leo Tolstoy at this new boutique hotel, in a building dating from 1866. Both service and style are simple but quite delightful. Some of the 38 rooms have exposed brick walls or loft-style ceilings. Outside the Garden Ring, this neighbourhood is still pretty lively, with a number of restaurants and bars in the immediate vicinity.

Mercure Arbat HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Гостиница Меркурий Арбат MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-225 0025; www.mercure.com; Smolenskaya pl 6; r from R6200; naW; mSmolenskaya)

We're charmed by this sweet and stylish hotel. Rooms are attractive and rather plush to boot. The most affordable ones have two twins or one queen-size bed, plus work space, flat-screen TVs and chic bathrooms with basin sinks. It's surprisingly quiet for its location right on the Garden Ring. Excellent value, especially on weekends.

oRusso Balt HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-645 3873; www.russo-balthotel.com; Gogolevsky bul 31; s R13,500-15,000, d R15,400-16,900; aiW; mArbatskaya)

With 15 rooms in an exquisite art deco building, the Russo Balt is as intimate and elegant as it gets in Moscow. Standard rooms are on the small side, but the whole place is beautifully decorated with period furnishings and original artwork, with the utmost attention to detail. Highly recommended.

Radisson Royal Hotel UkrainaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Украина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-221 5555; www.radissonblu.com; Kutuzovsky pr 2/1; r from R11,700; naWs; mKievskaya)

Housed in one of Stalin's 'Seven Sisters', this bombastic beauty sits majestically on the banks of the Moscow River facing the White House. It has retained its old-fashioned ostentation, with crystal chandeliers, polished marble and a ceiling fresco in the lobby. Heavy drapes, textured wallpaper and reproduction antiques give the guest rooms a similar atmosphere – with all the modern amenities.

Zamoskvorechie

Three PenguinsHOSTEL$

(Три Пингвина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-446 1778; www.3penguins.ru; Pyatnitskaya ul 20, str 2; dm/d R750/2600; W; mNovokuznetskaya)

This very small hostel is located in a converted flat with a comfy (we'd even say intimate) common area in the building best identified by Illarion cafe, just off Pyatnitskaya ul. Apart from the dorms, it features four doubles – two regular and two with bunk beds.

TroikaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-204 2226; www.hoteltroyka.ru; Sadovnicheskaya ul 5; r from R4000; a; mNovokuznetskaya)

This tourist hotel has a top-notch location across the bridge from Red Square, which makes it great value for money. All rooms are on the 1st floor of an 18th-century building with bare-brick walls and vaulted ceilings typical of that age.

Park Inn SaduHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-644 4844; www.parkinn.ru; ul Bolshaya Polyanka 17; s/d incl breakfast from R6500/7500; aW; mPolyanka)

This very regular branch of the Park Inn chain – think slightly impersonal, predictable comforts – boasts a prime location within walking distance of the Kremlin and the Red October cluster of bars and galleries. Prices fall to a jaw-dropping low in the middle of summer.

Na KazachyemHOTEL$$

(На Казачьем MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-745 2190; 1-y Kazachy per 4; s/d from R7600/8600; naWs; mPolyanka)

Set in the historic heart of Zamoskvorechie, Na Kazachyem recreates the atmosphere of an 18th-century estate. The light-filled atrium, bedecked with a crystal chandelier, and 15 classically decorated rooms provide a perfect setting for old-fashioned Russian hospitality. Reduced rates on weekends.

Ozerkovskaya HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Озерковская гостиница MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-783 5553; www.ozerkhotel.ru; Ozerkovskaya nab 50; s/d incl breakfast from R2900/3500; nW; mPaveletskaya)

This comfy, cosy hotel has only 27 rooms, including three that are tucked up under the mansard roof. The rooms are simply decorated, but parquet floors and comfortable queen-sized beds rank it above the standard post-Soviet fare. Add in attentive service and a central location (convenient for the Aeroexpress Train to Domodedovo Airport), and you’ve got an excellent-value accommodation option.

oHotel Baltschug KempinskiHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(Балчуг Кемпински MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-287 2000; www.kempinski-moscow.com; ul Balchug 1; r with/without view from R13,600/12,000; naWs; mKitay-Gorod, Ploshchad Revolyutsii)

If you want to wake up to views of the sun glinting off the Kremlin’s golden domes, this luxurious property on the Moscow River is the place for you. It is a historic hotel, built in 1898, with 230 high-ceilinged rooms that are sophisticated and sumptuous in design.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

STALIN'S SEVEN SISTERS

The foundations for seven large skyscrapers were laid in 1947 to mark Moscow’s 800th anniversary. Stalin had decided that Moscow suffered from a ‘skyscraper gap’ when compared to the USA, and ordered the construction of these seven behemoths to jump-start the city’s skyline.

One of the main architects, Vyacheslav Oltarzhevsky, had worked in New York during the skyscraper boom of the 1930s, and his experience proved essential. (Fortunately, he’d been released from the Gulag in time to help.)

In addition to the ‘Seven Sisters’ listed here, there were plans in place to build an eighth Stalinist skyscraper in Zaryadye (near Kitay Gorod). The historic district was razed in 1947 and a foundation was laid for a 32-storey tower. It did not get any further than that – for better and for worse – and the foundation was later used for the gargantuan Hotel Rossiya (demolished in 2006). This is now the site of the new Park Zaryadye.

With their widely scattered locations, the towers provide a unique visual reference for Moscow. Their official name in Russia is vysotky (high-rise) as opposed to neboskryob (foreign skyscraper). They have been nicknamed variously the ‘Seven Sisters’, the ‘wedding cakes’, ‘Stalin’s sisters’ and more.

A Foreign Affairs Ministry ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Smolenskaya-Sennaya pl 32/34; mSmolenskaya)

A Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya (Гостиница Ленинградская MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kalanchevskaya ul 21/40; mKomsomolskaya)

A Radisson Royal Hotel Ukraina

A Kotelnicheskaya Apartment Block (Высотка на Котельнической набережной MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kotelnicheskaya nab 17/1; mTaganskaya)

A Kudrinskaya Apartment Block (Высотка на Кудринской площади MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kudrinskaya pl 1; mBarrikadnaya)

A Moscow State University

A Transport Ministry (Высотка на площади Красных Ворот MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sadovaya-Spasskaya; mKrasnye Vorota)

5Eating

In recent years Moscow has blossomed into a culinary capital. Foodies will be thrilled by the dining options, from old-fashioned haute-russe to contemporary 'author cuisine'. The ban on imported foodstuffs means that chefs are finding innovative ways to utilise local ingredients, rediscovering ancient cooking techniques and inventing new ones in the process. And Moscow diners are eating it up. Literally.

COOK LIKE A LOCAL

If you love Russian food, you can learn to make it yourself. Taste of Russia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-929-694 3797; www.tasterussia.ru; bldg 4, Kazarmenny per 3; 3hr course R3500, market tour R1500; mKurskaya) offers courses in English, as well as market tours, wine tastings and special children’s classes. Cooking courses take place in the evening, when you prepare the meal, then eat it together.

Kremlin & Kitay Gorod

Stolovaya No 57CAFETERIA$

(Столовая 57 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-620 3129; https://gumrussia.com/shops/stolovaya-57; 3rd fl, GUM, Krasnaya pl 3; mains R200-300; h10am-10pm; mOkhotny Ryad)

Newly minted, this old-style cafeteria offers a nostalgic recreation of dining in post-Stalinist Russia. The food is good – and cheap for such a fancy store. Meat cutlets and cold salads come highly recommended. This is a great place to try ‘herring in a fur coat’ (herring, beetroots, carrots and potatoes).

Grand Coffee ManiaCAFE$$

(Кофе мания MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-960 2295; www.coffeemania.ru; Mal Cherkassky per 2; breakfast R300-500, mains R500-1200; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; aWv; mLubyanka)

This place has the same overpriced but appetising fare as other outlets of the ubiquitous chain, but the fabulous 'grand cafe' interior makes this one a special experience. Marble floors, art deco chandeliers and elaborate latticework evoke another era. Efficient service and excellent atmosphere.

Bosco CafeITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-620 3182; https://gumrussia.com/cafe/bosco-cafe; GUM, Krasnaya pl 3; pasta R500-1000, mains R1200-2000; h10am-10pm; mPloshchad Revolyutsii)

Sip a cappuccino in view of the Kremlin. Munch on lunch while the crowds line up at Lenin’s Mausoleum. Enjoy an afternoon aperitif while admiring St Basil’s domes. Service is lacking and the menu is overpriced, but this cafe on the 1st floor of the GUM mall is the only place to sit right on Red Square and marvel at its magnificence.

The menu is wide-ranging, so you don't have to spend a fortune. Reservations recommended for dinner.

Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky

BatoniGEORGIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-653 6530; www.batoni-kafe.ru; Novoslobodskaya ul 18; mains R300-600; h11.30am-midnight; mMendeleyevskaya)

Among myriad Georgian places in Moscow, Batoni is about the loveliest and the most scrupulous at sourcing all the right ingredients for century-old recipes. Pkhali (walnut paste) snacks, khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread) and lamb shashlyk kebabs are all up to Mt Kazbek–high standards. For a proper taste of Georgia, order a bottle of Mukuzani or Kindzmarauli – the country's best reds.

ZupperiaINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-915-391 8309; www.facebook.com/Zupperia; Sadovaya-Samotechnaya ul 20; soups & salads R300-400; h8am-11pm; W; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

Designed to look like a transplant from some old-worldish European city, this unpretentious eatery is run by local celebrity chef Uilliam Lamberti. The minimalist menu includes soups, bruschettas and salads. At first glance, the place seems to consist of one long table, but there is more seating downstairs. Takeaway is available.

Lepim i VarimRUSSIAN$

(Лепим и варим MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-985-688 9606; www.lepimivarim.ru; Stoleshnikov per 9, str 1; mains R220-350; h10am-11pm)

This cosy place touts itself as ‘the most visited boutique’ in the flashy Stoleshnikov per, but instead of Armani clothes it celebrates arguably the most vital item on any Russian menu – pelmeni (dumplings), as well as their relatives from all around the world. Perfectly shaped, the dumplings seem fit for a catwalk display in Milan and taste even better.

Rynok & Obshchepit ShoukISRAELI$

(Рынок и Общепит Шук MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-966 2501; www.facebook.com/rynokshuk; Veskovsky per 7; sandwiches R250-320; h8am-11pm; mNovoslobodskaya)

This quirky place, a cross between a corner shop and a hip falafel joint, also makes top-quality shawarma (grilled meat and salad wrapped in flat bread) in the fashionably open kitchen. The shop section has a good selection of Israeli vegetable preserves, fruit and wine.

Tsvetnoy Food CourtINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-737 7773; www.tsvetnoy.com; Tsvetnoy bul 15, str 1; tapas R100-400; hnoon-10pm; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

The two upper floors of Tsvetnoy Central Market shopping mall are filled with refined delis and cafes, some of them outstandingly good. Little snacks hailing from Basque Country in Spain have generated a bit of a cult following for Tapas & Pintxos, on the 5th floor. The Dagestani dumpling shop on the 6th floor makes for equally exciting culinary travel.

oDelicatessenINTERNATIONAL$$

(Деликатесы MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newdeli.ru; Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul 20; mains R500-800; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun; W; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

The affable and chatty owners of this place travel the world and experiment with the menu a lot, turning burgers, pizzas and pasta into artfully constructed objects of modern culinary art. The other source of joy is a cabinet filled with bottles of ripening fruity liquors, which may destroy your budget if consumed uncontrollably (a pointless warning, we know).

oLavka-LavkaINTERNATIONAL$$

(Лавка-Лавка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-903-115 5033; www.restoran.lavkalavka.com; ul Petrovka 21, str 2; mains R500-950; hnoon-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; Wc; mTeatralnaya)S

Welcome to the Russian Portlandia – all the food here is organic and hails from little farms where you may rest assured all the lambs and chickens lived a very happy life before being served to you on a plate. Irony aside, this is a great place to sample local food cooked in a funky improvisational style.

FreshVEGETARIAN$$

(Свежий MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-965-278 9089; www.freshrestaurant.ru; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 11; mains R500-650; h11am-11pm; W; mTeatralnaya)

Fresh out of Canada, this is the kind of vegetarian restaurant that people pour into not for lifestyle reasons, but because the modern, postethnic food and the escapist ambience are great. Definitely go for the smoothies. Vegans and rawists will not feel neglected.

VoronezhINTERNATIONAL$$

(Воронеж MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.voronej.com; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 12/1, str 1; mains R300-720; h9am-9pm; mTeatralnaya)

Its darkened, scarlet-coloured interior makes this bistro look a bit like an oriental opium den, but it is in fact a carnivore temple, where patrons seem to fall into a deeply meditative state while munching on their burgers and excellent pastrami sandwiches. One of the best places for lunch in the city centre.

Golodny-ZloyFUSION$$

(Голодный-Злой MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-792 7105; http://perelmanpeople.com/restoran/golodnyy-zloy; Tsvetnoy bul 2; mains R500-700; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mTrubnaya)

Filling up with white collars from the business centre above it, this trendsetting establishment combines unlikely ingredients and cooking methods with unfailingly excellent results – just try its smoked-mussel soup or dorado cooked with sorrel. Visual art is also involved, with each dish designed to entertain the eye as much as to please the stomach.

SevenEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-205 0277; Dmitrovsky per 7; mains R500-900; h8am-11pm; mTeatralnaya)

You'll find a pleasant mix of post-industrial and theatrical in this dimly lit space, where low-hanging chandeliers and comfortable chairs make for a long and enjoyable evening. The menu mirrors the city outside – inventively cosmopolitan with a sprinkle of Soviet nostalgia and a strong bias towards domestic meat and vegetable producers.

TechnicumEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-230 0605; www.tehnikumbistro.ru; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5, str 2; mains R480-650; h9am-midnight; mTeatralnaya)

Casual, friendly and focused on taste, rather than trying to impress with shocking exoticism, Technicum is one of the places that shape the modern outlook of Moscow's culinary scene. The laconic menu contains a short list of fish and meat dishes (note the outstanding mutton with aubergine) as well as soups, including an exemplary borsch (beetroot soup) served with Borodinsky rye bread.

oBrasserie MostFRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-660 0706; www.brasseriemost.ru; ul Kuznetsky most 6/3; mains R1000-3000; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; mTeatralnaya)

Moscow's most venerated and erudite restaurateur Alexander Rappoport shares his love for regional French cuisine in this classy and expensive place on Kuznetsky most. The menu is a grand gastrotour taking in seemingly every major area of France from Brittany to Alsace. Authenticity is religion here. If they say bouillabaisse, you can be sure it will taste exactly like Marseilles' best.

DruzhbaCHINESE$$$

(Дружба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-973 1212; Novoslobodskaya ul 4; mains R700-1200; h11am-11pm; v; mNovoslobodskaya)

Druzhba earns high marks for authenticity, and as far as Sichuan cuisine goes that means spicy. Chinese restaurants in Moscow are notorious for turning down their seasoning to appeal to Russian taste buds, but Druzhba is the exception, which explains why this place is often packed with Chinese patrons. The chicken with peppers gets red-hot reviews.

Meshchansky & Basmanny

oDukhan Chito-RaGEORGIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-916-393 0030; www.chito-ra.ru; ul Kazakhova 10 str 2; mains R300-500; hnoon-11pm; mKurskaya)

It's a blessing when one of the most revered Georgian eateries in town is also one of the cheapest. The object of worship here is khinkali – large, meat-filled dumplings – but the traditional vegie starters are also great. The rather inevitable downside is that the place is constantly busy and there is often a queue to get in.

oDarbaziGEORGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-915 3632; www.darbazirest.ru; ul Nikoloyamskaya 16; mains R590-1500; hnoon-midnight; W; mTaganskaya)

The vast majority of Georgian restaurants focus on the most popular, tried-and-true fare, such as shashlyk (meat kebabs) and khinkali (dumplings). This classy place goes far beyond these, listing less well-known delicacies with almost encyclopaedic meticulousness. Our favourite is chakapuli (lamb cooked in white wine with tarragon) and megreli kharcho (duck in walnut sauce).

oKitayskaya GramotaCHINESE$$

(Китайская грамота MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-625 4757; http://chinagramota.ru/; ul Sretenka 1; mains R400-1200; hnoon-midnight; mSretenskaya)

Ignore the fact that the waiting staff are dressed as Mao's soldiers; this is the place to try outstanding Cantonese fare in an atmosphere echoing that of the Opium War's decadence. A true culinary magician, the Chinese chef turns any ingredient – from hog paw to octopus to simple milk – into a mouth-watering delicacy.

Odessa-MamaUKRAINIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-964-647 1110; www.cafeodessa.ru; per Krivokolenny 10 str 5; R400-800; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mChistye Prudy)

Come here to celebrate Odessa, affectionately called 'mama' by the residents of this port city. What mama cooks is a wild fusion of Jewish, Ukrainian and Balkan foods, with a strong emphasis on Black Sea fish. It's like island hopping – from forshmak (Jewish herring pate) to Ukrainian borsch and eventually to fried Odessa gobies.

YuzhaneMODERN EUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-926 1640; www.facebook.com/yuzhanemsk/; pr Akademika Sakharova 10; mains R450-1300; hnoon-midnight; mKrasnye Vorota)

A carnivore stronghold, Yuzhane (which means 'the Southerners') gets its meat from the Kuban area in southern Russia, hence the name. The chef's philosophy is to utilise every bit of an animal's body, so in addition to juicy steaks, the menu features all kinds of by-products. The southern theme is backed by seafood and a wealth of vegetables, including meaty tomatoes.

Madam GalifeGEORGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-775 2601; www.madamgalife.ru; Pr Mira 26/1; mains R430-850; hnoon-5am; W; mProspekt Mira)

A brainchild of famous Georgian film director Rezo Gabriadze, this is much more than just another Caucasian restaurant. It faces the charming Aptekarsky Ogorod gardens for starters, and the interior design – combining naive art with antiques brought from Georgia – is superb. Food is a mixture of Georgian and European. To avoid disappointment, stick to the former.

Presnya

oStolleCAFE$

(Штолле MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stolle.ru; Bldg 1, Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 3; mains R200-400; h8am-11pm; aWc; mMayakovskaya)

The entire menu at Stolle is excellent, but the pirozhki (savoury pies) are irresistible. A ‘stolle’ is a traditional Saxon Christmas cake: the selection of sweets and savouries sits on the counter, fresh from the oven. It may be difficult to decide (mushroom or meat, apricot or apple?), but you really can’t go wrong.

VolkonskyBAKERY$

(Волконский MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wolkonsky.com; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 2/46; mains R250-400, sweets from R100; hbakery 8am-11pm, cafe 24hr; Wvc; mMayakovskaya)

The queue often runs out the door, as loyal patrons wait their turn for the city’s best freshly baked breads, pastries and pies. It’s worth the wait, especially if you decide on a fruit-filled croissant or to-die-for olive bread. Next door there are big wooden tables where you can get large bowls of coffee or tea.

oTwinsRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-695 4510; www.twinsmoscow.ru; Malaya Bronnaya ul 13; mains R650-1750; Wv; mTverskaya)

Swoon-worthy identical-twin chefs Sergei and Ivan Berezutskiy bring their contrasting tastes and creative talents to this delightful restaurant. The brothers take a thoroughly modern approach to Russian cooking, with ingredients procured from all corners of the country. Seating is on the pleasant terrace or in the classy, kitschy dining room.

oKhachapuriGEORGIAN$$

(Хачапури MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-985-764 3118; www.hacha.ru; Bolshoy Gnezdnikovsky per 10; khachapuri R220-420, mains R430-690; aW; mPushkinskaya)

Unassuming, affordable and appetising, this urban cafe exemplifies what people love about Georgian culture: the warm hospitality and the freshly baked khachapuri (cheese bread). Aside from eight types of delicious khachapuri, there’s also an array of soups, shashlyk (kebabs), khinkali (dumplings) and other Georgian favourites.

Gran Cafe Dr ZhivagoRUSSIAN$$

(Гранд Кафе Dr Живаго MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-922 0100; www.drzhivago.ru; Mokhovaya ul 15/1; mains R540-1200; h24hr; mOkhotny Ryad)

An excellent breakfast choice before visiting the Kremlin, this round-the-clock place mixes Soviet nostalgia with a great deal of mischievous irony in both design and food. The chef has upgraded the menu of a standard pioneer camp’s canteen to near-haute-cuisine level, with masterfully cooked porridge, pancakes, vareniki (boiled dumplings, like ravioli) and cottage-cheese pies.

oCafe PushkinRUSSIAN$$$

(Кафе Пушкинь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-739 0033; www.cafe-pushkin.ru; Tverskoy bul 26a; business lunch R620-930, mains R1000-2500; h24hr; aW; mPushkinskaya)

The tsarina of haute-russe dining, offering an exquisite blend of Russian and French cuisines. Service and food are done to perfection. The lovely 19th-century building has a different atmosphere on each floor, including a richly decorated library and a pleasant rooftop cafe.

Arbat & Khamovniki

oVarenichnaya No 1RUSSIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.varenichnaya.ru; ul Arbat 29; business lunch R290-340, mains R220-490; h10am-midnight; vc; mArbatskaya)

Retro Soviet is all the rage in Moscow, and this old-style restaurant does it right, with books lining the walls, old movies on the B&W TV, and Cold War–era prices. The menu features tasty, filling vareniki and pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings), with sweet and savoury fillings. Bonus: an excellent house-made pickled vegie plate to make you pucker.

Usachevsky MarketMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-999-003 0030; www.usachevsky.ru; ul Usachyova 26; mains R200-600; h9am-9pm; mSportivnaya)

An old market has been taken over by hipster foodies, who instantly filled the premises with little eateries serving Georgian, Uzbek, Italian, Israeli and you-name-it cuisine, as well as shops representing small-scale Russian food producers, such as Kostroma Cheese. It’s a great place for lunch and shopping, if you happen to be nearby.

Professor PufRUSSIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.professorpuf.ru; Bldg 1, ul Volkhonka 9; breakfast R150-200, lunch R350-500; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; Wvc; mKropotkinskaya)

A select menu of Russian classics shows off fresh ingredients, old-fashioned cooking methods and contemporary flare. Pleasant, efficient service and a super-central location make this a great option before or after a morning at the museum. Unfortunately named, but otherwise delightful, especially the house-made bread and pastries.

oElardzhiGEORGIAN$$

(Эларджи MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-627 7897; www.ginza.ru; Gagarinsky per 15a; mains R600-800; hnoon-midnight; c; mKropotkinskaya)

Moscow's Georgian restaurants are all very tasty, but this one is also tasteful. You'll be charmed from the moment you enter the courtyard, where live rabbits and lambs greet all comers. Sink into a sofa in the romantic dining room or on the light-filled porch; then feast on delicacies, such as the namesake dish, elarji (cornmeal with suluguni cheese).

oChemodanRUSSIAN$$$

(Чемодан MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-695 3819; www.chemodan-msk.ru; Gogolevsky bul 25; mains R900-1950; av; mKropotkinskaya)

A unique opportunity to sample Siberian cuisine (rare, that is, for those of us who don't frequent Siberia). The menu highlights game meat, regional seafood and wild fruits and berries (and pine cones). The dining room is decorated with old photos and antiques, creating a romantic atmosphere that any adventurer would be happy to return home to. Highly recommended.

Zamoskvorechie

Mitzva BarISRAELI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-532 4224; www.facebook.com/mitzva.msk; Pyatnitskaya ul 3/4, str 1; mains R750-820; h3pm-3am; mNovokuznetskaya)

A baby of the recent Israeli food craze, this restaurant-cum-bar hides in an atmospheric vaulted cellar decorated with Judaic and Masonic symbols. The talented chef's wild imagination turns Jewish standards, such as gefilte fish (stuffed carp), into art objects fit for the fusion cuisine of the future. There are great cocktails, too.

oMizandariGEORGIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-903-263 9990; www.mizandari.ru; Bolotnaya nab 5, str 1; mains R300-500; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mKropotkinskaya)

Georgian restaurants in Moscow tend to be either expensive or tacky. This small family-run place is neither. Come with friends and order a selection of appetisers, such as pkhali and lobio (both made of walnut paste), khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread) and kharcho (rice with beef or lamb soup). Bless you if you can still accommodate a main course after all that!

AC/DC in TbilisiGEORGIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-909-955 4043; www.facebook.com/acdcintbilisi; Gorky Park; mains R250-350; h10am-10pm; mOktyabrskaya)

Burgers and Georgia (the one in the Caucasus) seem to inhabit parallel universes, but they get together in this summer-only Gorky Park kiosk. An otherwise very ordinary burger turns Georgian with the help of hot adjika sauce and suluguni cheese. The meatballs in satsivi (walnut, garlic and pomegranate paste) are another thing to try here.

oDanilovsky MarketMARKET$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.danrinok.ru; Mytnaya ul 74; mains R400-600; h8am-8pm; mTulskaya)

A showcase of the area's ongoing gentrification, this giant Soviet-era farmers market is now largely about deli food cooked and served in myriad little eateries, including such gems as a Dagestani dumpling shop and a Vietnamese pho-soup kitchen. The market itself looks very orderly, if a tiny bit artificial, with uniformed vendors and thoughtfully designed premises.

Fedya, dich!FUSION$$

(Федя, дичь! MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-916-747 0110; Mytnaya ul 74; mains R650-820; h11am-11pm; mTulskaya)

Let's take a walk on the wild side of the Moscow food scene. This place gets fresh supplies of fish and game from faraway corners of Siberia. Sea of Japan oysters and Arctic fish tartare are fresh and delicious despite crossing eight time zones to land on your table; so are wild-boar cutlets and deer steaks with forest berries.

SyrovarnyaEASTERN EUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-727 3880; www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/syrovarnya; Bersenevsky per 2, str 1; mains R400-700; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, 24hr Fri-Sun; mPolyanka, Kropotkinskaya)

Domestic cheese production is all the rage in Russia, which has banned cheese imports from the EU in retaliation for Western sanctions. This restaurant serves hearty, homey meals, most of which contain cheese produced right here – in a micro-creamery that you see first thing after coming inside. A shop selling top-quality cheese is also on the premises.

Chugunny mostBISTRO$$

(Чугунный мост MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-959 4418; www.facebook.com/chugunniimost; Pyatnitskaya ul 6; mains R700-1000; h9am-midnight; mTretyakovskaya)

This place illustrates the direction in which the entire Moscow restaurant scene seems to be heading – a bistro-cum-bar that would not be out of place in somewhere like Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin. The subdued, wood-dominated decor is almost therapeutic and the inventive, postethnic food makes you want to live or work in the vicinity, just so it can be your local.

The R550 set-lunch deal is about the best value for money in town. The place is a good breakfast choice, too.

oBjörnSCANDINAVIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-953 9059; http://bjorn.rest; Pyatnitskaya ul 3; mains R600-1200; mNovokuznetskaya)

A neat cluster of fir trees on a busy street hides a Nordic gem that deserves a saga to glorify its many virtues. This is not an ‘ethnic’ restaurant, but a presentation of futuristic Scandinavian cuisine straight out of a science fiction movie. From salads to desserts, every dish looks deceptively simple, visually perfect and 23rd century.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Solo traveller looking for drinking buddies? Freaked out by face control? An organised pub crawl is a guaranteed way to meet fine folks from around the world, get into some cool clubs and discover Moscow's nightlife. The City Pub Crawl (www.citypubcrawl.ru; R1500) includes four clubs, four drinks and one band of very merry Moscow travellers. Dancing on the bar is also included.

FACE CONTROL

‘Face control’ is the common practice of denying entry to clubs and bars based on a person’s appearance. It’s not unusual for nightlife hot spots to try to create an illusion of exclusivity, but some Moscow clubs take the practice to a new level.

A few tips for avoiding rejection:

ADress sharp. No shorts, sneakers or sportswear.

ASmile. Show the bouncer that you are going to enhance the atmosphere inside.

ABook a table (sometimes requires a table deposit).

ASpeak English. Foreigners are not as special as they used to be, but they’re still sort of special.

Kremlin & Kitay Gorod

Mandarin CombustibleLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-745 0700; Mal Cherkassky per 2; hnoon-6am; W; mLubyanka)

Dining, drinking and dancing are all on offer in this sexy space. There is a long menu of Pan Asian cuisine – as well as sushi, pasta, tapas and more – served all night long for Moscow's nonstop party people. Drinks are forgettable and service is slack, but everything (and everyone) looks fine – and sometimes that's what matters.

Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky

oNoor / ElectroBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-903-136 7686; www.noorbar.com; ul Tverskaya 23/12; h8pm-3am Mon-Wed, to 6am Thu-Sun; mPushkinskaya)

There is little to say about this misleadingly unassuming bar, apart from the fact that everything in it is close to perfection. It has it all – prime location, convivial atmosphere, eclectic DJ music, friendly bartenders and superb drinks. Though declared 'the best' by various magazines on several occasions, it doesn't feel like they care.

32.05CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-905-703 3205; www.veranda3205.ru; ul Karetny Ryad 3; h11am-3am; mPushkinskaya)

The biggest drinking and eating establishment in Hermitage Gardens, this verandah positioned at the back of the park's main building looks a bit like a greenhouse. In summer, tables (and patrons) spill out into the park, making it one of the city's best places for outdoor drinking. With its long bar and joyful atmosphere, the place also heaves in winter.

EnthusiastBAR

(Энтузиаст MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Stoleshnikov per 7, str 5; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mTeatralnaya)

Scooter enthusiast, that is. But you don't have to be one in order to enjoy this superbly laid-back bar hidden at the far end of a fancifully shaped courtyard and disguised as a spare-parts shop. On a warm day, grab a beer or cider, settle into a beach chair and let harmony descend on you.

Meshchansky & Basmanny

oSisters CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-623 0932; www.cafesisters.com; ul Pokrovka 6; hnoon-11pm; W; mKitay-Gorod)

This cosy and quiet cafe-cum-bar has a distinct feminine touch about it – as if Chekhov's sisters have finally made their way to Moscow and started a new life here. Cheapish smoothies, lemonades and teas are on offer, but the wine and cocktail lists are equally impressive.

oUkuleleshnayaBAR

(Укулелешная MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-642 5726; www.uku-uku.ru; ul Pokrovka 17 str 1; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-4am Fri & Sat; mChistye Prudy)

In its new location, this is now more of a bar than a musical instrument shop, although ukuleles still adorn the walls, prompting an occasional jam session. Craft beer prevails on the drinks list, but Ukuleleshnaya also serves experimental cocktails of its own invention. Live concerts happen regularly and resident Pomeranian spitz Berseny (cute dog) presides over the resulting madness.

Chaynaya VysotaTEAHOUSE

(Чайная высота MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://cha108.ru/; ul Pokrovka 27 str 1; W; mChistye Prudy)

Tearoom? Gelateria? This place looks more like an academic library of tea and ice cream, an impression enhanced by it sharing premises with a bookstore. The tea menu is an endless list of pu'ers and oolongs, while ice-cream flavours represent everything that grows in the former USSR – from gooseberry or fir-needle juice to chestnuts and Crimean rose petals.

Tsurtsum CafeCAFE

(Цурцум кафе MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4-y Syromyatnichesky per 1 str 6; h10am-11pm)

Synonymous with Winzavod art centre, where it is located, Tsurtsum is a watering hole where all the beasts of the postindustrial savannah at the back of Kursky vokzal gather to sit on the verandah and plot new start-ups, performances and revolutions. Great for people-watching and nonmalicious, self-educating eavesdropping – if you speak Russian.

SolyankaCAFE, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-903-745 1313; http://s-11.ru; ul Solyanka 11; h11am-6am; W; mKitay-Gorod)

Solyanka is a historic 18th-century merchant’s mansion that has been revamped into an edgy, arty club. Wide-plank floors, exposed brick walls, leather furniture and funky light fixtures transform the space. By day it’s an excellent restaurant, serving contemporary, creative Russian and European food.

In the evening, the big bar room gets cleared of tables and the DJ spins hip-hop, techno and rave. The music usually starts at 11pm (and so does the face control).

TsiferblatANTICAFE

(Циферблат MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-962-964 6786; www.domnadereve.ziferblat.net; ul Pokrovka 12 str 1; 1st hour R180, subsequent hours R120; h8.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, till 6am Fri, Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; W; mKitay-Gorod)

How often do you head to a cafe just because you need somewhere nice to spend some time in, not because you are desperate to get a coffee? Tsiferblat was the first establishment in Moscow that turned the idea of a coffee shop upside down. Here you pay for time, while coffee, as well as lemonade and cookies, are free.

They call it an 'anticafe'. Looking like an old flat, this place is good for chatting with friends or for fiddling with your gadgets, but it might be slightly too noisy if you need to do some real work. Enter at the back of the building, then walk to the 2nd floor.

Presnya

oTime-Out Rooftop BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://hotelpeking.ru/timeout-rooftop-bar; 12th fl, Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 5; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mMayakovskaya)

On the upper floors of the throwback Peking Hotel (Гостиница Пекин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-650 0900; www.hotelpeking.ru; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 5/1; r from R7600; aW; mMayakovskaya), this trendy bar is nothing but 'now'. That includes the bartenders sporting plaid and their delicious concoctions, specially created for different times of the day. The decor is pretty impressive – particularly the spectacular city skyline view. A perfect place for sundowners (or sun-ups, if you last that long).

Art Lebedev Cafe StudioCAFE

(Кафе Студия Артемия Лебедева MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.artlebedev.ru; Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 35b; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W; mArbatskaya)

Owned by design guru Artemy Lebedev, this tiny space invites an attractive arty crowd to sip fancy coffee drinks and exotic teas. Regulars love the house-made kasha (porridge) for breakfast and the shady terrace in summer months. Don't miss the shop downstairs.

JaggerBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jaggercity.ru; Bldg 30, Rochdelskaya ul 15; hnoon-midnight Mon-Wed, to 6am Thu-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun; mUlitsa 1905 Goda)

Tucked into the courtyard in the old Tryokhgornaya manufacturing complex, Jagger is a super-hot bar with a super-cool vibe. Excellent cocktails, sharp clientele and laid-back atmosphere are characteristic of a new Moscow nightlife that is cosmopolitan and cultured, not over-the-top outrageous. Still, you have to know where to look for this place. And you have to look good.

Coffee ManiaCAFE

(Кофемания MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeemania.ru; Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 13, Moscow Conservatory; h24hr; W; mOkhotny Ryad)

A longtime popular place for the rich and beautiful to congregate, this friendly, informal cafe is beloved for its homemade soups, freshly squeezed juices and steaming (if overpriced) cappuccinos, not to mention its summer terrace overlooking the leafy courtyard of the Moscow Conservatory.

Arbat & Khamovniki

Dom 12WINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dom12cafe.ru; Mansurovsky per 12; hnoon-6am; mPark Kultury)

Eclectic and atmospheric, Dom 12 may be the perfect place to attend an event or chat with friends over a glass of wine. The cosy interior is enhanced by natural materials, comfy chairs and low lighting. Besides the excellent wine list, the place offers poetry nights, lectures, concerts and dancing. Delightful!

Zhiguli Beer HallBREWERY

(Пивной зал Жигули MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zhiguli.su; ul Novy Arbat 11; beer R210-350; h10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; mArbatskaya)

It’s hard to classify this old-style stolovaya (cafeteria) that happens to brew great beer. The place harks back to the Soviet years, when a popular pivnaya (beer joint with stand-up tables) with the same name was a Novy Arbat institution. The minimalist decor and cafeteria-style service recalls the heyday, although it's been updated with big-screen TVs and a separate table-service dining room.

Zamoskvorechie

oBar StrelkaCAFE, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barstrelka.com; Bersenevskaya nab 14/5, bldg 5a; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; mKropotkinskaya)

Located just below the Patriarshy most, the bar-restaurant at the Strelka Institute is the ideal starting point for an evening in the Red October complex. The rooftop terrace has unbeatable Moscow River views, but the interior is equally cool in a shabby-chic sort of way. The bar menu is excellent and there is usually somebody tinkling the ivories.

oGipsyCLUB, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bargipsy.ru; Bolotnaya nab 3/4; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, 2pm-6am Fri & Sat)

Euphoria reigns in this postmodern nomad camp of a bar with its strategic rooftop position on Red October. The decor is bright-coloured kitsch, which among other oddities means fake palm trees and toilet doors covered with artificial fur. The DJ and live-music repertoires are aptly eclectic.

Le BouleBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-518 8412; Gorky Park; hnoon-midnight; W; mOktyabrskaya)

The goatee and moustache factor is high in this hipster-ridden verandah bar that comes with a dozen pétanque lanes. Grab a pitcher of sangria or a pint of cider and have a go at what is arguably the most alcohol-compatible sport. Live bands often play on the verandah in the early evening.

KusochkiBAR

(Pieces; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-114 5525; www.kusochki-cafe.ru; ul Shabolovka 63; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mShabolovskaya)

This Shabolovka district local is an alcohol-infused version of the Mad Hatter's tea party with a hint of BDSM. It features waitresses dressed as paramedics and policewomen, cocktails served in drip bags and a table inside a prison cell, where you can handcuff your drinking buddies if that sounds like a fun thing to do. Extensive drinks list and good food.

MOJOBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-999 0507; www.facebook.com/mojobarmoscow; ul Valovaya 26; h9am-midnight; mDobryninskaya)

The name may not sound original, but these guys do get your mojo working! Their magic formula includes outstanding cocktails, classily understated design with subdued lights, great deli food, modern art on the walls and DJ music. The expat owners mingle and drink with patrons – sometimes so hard, they can't open shop on Sunday.

UnderdogCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Klimentovsky per 12, str 14; h2pm-2am; mTretyakovskaya)

This cosy little pub hidden away from the perpetually crowded Klimentovsky per has the melancholy of an Edward Hopper painting or a good road movie. The beer menu is an all-encompassing list of IPAs, APAs, lagers, krieks and whatnot – mostly produced at local microbreweries. Some Russian beers come with crazy names like Shaman Has Three Hands.

ParkaCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-926-160 6313; www.facebook.com/parkacraft; Pyatnitskaya ul 22, str 1; h1pm-2am; mNovokuznetskaya)

'Parka' is a banya (bathhouse) term, hence the sauna-like decor, and just like a proper banya, this a very relaxing place. The friendly bartenders let you try any beer before you commit to buying a pint; the brews, many with crazy Runglish names, are mostly local.

LGBT MOSCOW

There have been reports of police harassment around gay clubs and cruising areas in Moscow. Exercise extra caution around LGBT-specific venues (or avoid them) and you are unlikely to experience any problems. Moscow Pride has not taken place since it was banned by city courts (despite fines from the European Court of Human Rights in 2010).

All this said, Moscow is the most cosmopolitan of Russian cities, and the active gay and lesbian scene reflects this attitude. Newspapers such as the Moscow Times feature articles about gay and lesbian issues, as well as listings of gay and lesbian clubs. Gay.ru (http://english.gay.ru) is rather out-of-date, but still has good links and resources for getting in touch with personal guides.

Venues

PropagandaCAFE, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.propagandamoscow.com; Bolshoy Zlatoustinsky per 7; hnoon-6am; W; mKitay-Gorod)

This long-time favourite looks to be straight from the warehouse district, with exposed brick walls and pipe ceilings. It’s a cafe by day, but at night they clear the dance floor and let the DJ do his stuff. This is a gay-friendly place, especially on Sunday nights.

SecretCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.secret-club.ru; Nizhny Susalny per 7, Bldg 8; h11pm-6am; mKurskaya)

The ‘sliding scale’ cover charge and cheap drinks attract a young, student crowd to this gay nightclub. The earlier you arrive, the cheaper the admission, but if you’re a male aged 18 to 22, it’s free any time. Two dance floors, plus live music or drag shows on weekends.