3Entertainment

The performing arts are one of Moscow’s biggest attractions. Highly acclaimed, professional artists stage productions in elegant theatres around the city, most of which have been recently revamped and look marvellous.

Most theatres sell tickets online. Or, you can do it the old-fashioned way and buy tickets directly from the theatre box office or from a teatralnaya kassa (theatre kiosk), several of which are scattered about the city. Note, many venues are closed between late June and early September.

Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky

oBolshoi TheatreBALLET, OPERA

(Большой театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-455 5555; www.bolshoi.ru; Teatralnaya pl 1; tickets R100-12,000; hclosed late Jul–mid-Sep; mTeatralnaya)

An evening at the Bolshoi is still one of Moscow’s most romantic and entertaining options for a night on the town. The glittering six-tier auditorium has an electric atmosphere, evoking over 240 years of premier music and dance. Both the ballet and opera companies perform a range of Russian and foreign works here.

Stanislavsky ElectrotheatreARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-699 7224; http://electrotheatre.ru; ul Tverskaya 23; mPushkinskaya)

Renowned performance artist Boris Yukhananov has revived this old theatre as Moscow's hottest venue for experimental performance and visual art. Dance, music, cinema and theatre form a sparkling cocktail of genres and there is not a day without something new, strange and exciting going on.

Novaya OperaOPERA

(Новая опера MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-694 0868; www.novayaopera.ru; ul Karetny Ryad 3; hbox office noon-7.30pm; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

This theatre company was founded in 1991 by then-mayor Luzhkov and artistic director Evgeny Kolobov. Maestro Kolobov stated, ‘We do not pretend to be innovators in this beautiful and complicated genre of opera’. As such, the ‘New Opera’ stages the old classics, and does it well. The gorgeous, modern opera house is set amid the Hermitage Gardens.

Moscow Art Theatre (MKhT)THEATRE

(Московский художественный театр (МХAТ) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mxat.ru; Kamergersky per 3; hbox office noon-7pm; mTeatralnaya)

Often called the most influential theatre in Europe, this is where method acting was founded over 100 years ago, by Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko. Besides the theatre itself and an acting studio-school, a small museum about the theatre’s history is also on-site.

Meshchansky & Basmanny

Gogol CentreTHEATRE

(Гоголь-центр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-262 9214; www.gogolcenter.com; ul Kazakhova 8; mKurskaya)

One of the most talked-about theatres in Moscow is under constant political pressure due to the nonconformist position of its director Kirill Serebrennikov. Gogol Centre is a modern venue that hosts many musical and dance performances as well as cutting-edge drama. The latter is difficult to appreciate without knowing Russian.

New BalletDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-265 7510; www.newballet.ru; Novaya Basmannaya ul 25/2; hbox office 11am-7pm; mKrasnye Vorota)

If you can’t stand to see another Swan Lake, you will be pleased to know that the New Ballet performs innovative contemporary dance. This performance art, called ‘plastic ballet’, incorporates elements of classical and modern dance, as well as pantomime and drama. The theatre is tiny, providing an up-close look at original, cutting-edge choreography.

Pirogi on MaroseykaLIVE MUSIC, CINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://pirogicafe.ru; ul Maroseyka 9/2; h24hr; W; mKitay-Gorod)

If you have ever visited Pirogi’s earlier incarnations, you might be surprised by the club’s slick storefront. Inside, it’s not dark and it’s not grungy. Do not fear, however, as the crucial elements have not changed: decent food, affordable beer, and movies and music every night, all of which draw the young, broke and beautiful.

Presnya

Spartak Stadium (Otkrytie Arena)SPECTATOR SPORT

(Стадион Спартак (Открытие Арена) GOOGLE MAP ; %495-411 5200; www.otkritiearena.ru; Volokolamskoe sh 67; mTushinskaya)

Home to professional football club FC Spartak, this bizarre-looking arena – easy to recognise by the Spartak red-and-white on the exterior – was built for the 2018 World Cup (and expected to host the opening game). In addition to the 42,000-capacity stadium, the complex includes an indoor arena and extensive facilities for other sports.

Tchaikovsky Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Концертный зал имени Чайковского MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-232 0400; www.meloman.ru; Triumfalnaya pl 4/31; tickets R800-3000; hconcerts 7pm, closed Aug; mMayakovskaya)

Home to the famous Moscow State Philharmonic (Moskovskaya Filharmonia), the capital’s oldest symphony orchestra, Tchaikovsky Concert Hall was established in 1921. It’s a huge auditorium, with seating for 1600 people. Expect to hear the Russian classics, such as Stravinsky, Rachmaninov and Shostakovich, as well as other European favourites. Look out for children’s concerts, jazz ensembles and other special performances.

Moscow Tchaikovsky ConservatoryCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Московская консерватория имени Чайковского MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 495-629 9401; www.mosconsv.ru; Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 13; mOkhotny Ryad)

The country’s largest music school, named for Tchaikovsky of course, has two venues, both of which host concerts, recitals and competitions. The Great Hall of the Conservatory is home to the Moscow Symphony Orchestra (MSO; www.moscowsymphony.ru), a low-budget but highly lauded orchestra under the direction of Vladimir Ziva.

Moscow English TheatreTHEATRE

(MET; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-690 4658; www.moscowenglishtheatre.com; Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 19/13; mArbatskaya)

Founded by English actor Jonathan Bex, the MET performs contemporary American and British plays for English-speaking audiences. The company's original production – the comedy Educating Rita, by Willy Russell – sold out five straight seasons. The repertoire has expanded to include drama and mystery. The MET performs at the Mayakovsky Theatre.

Sixteen TonsLIVE MUSIC

(Шестнадцать тонн MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-253 1550; www.16tons.ru; ul Presnensky val 6; cover R600-1200; h11am-6am; W; mUlitsa 1905 Goda)

Downstairs, the brassy English pub-restaurant has an excellent house-brewed bitter. Upstairs, the club gets some of the best Russian bands that play in Moscow and occasional first-rate or semi-obscure Western groups. Show times are subject to change so check the website for details.

Arbat & Khamovniki

Luzhniki StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT

(Олимпийский Комплекс Лужники MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-780 0808; www.luzhniki.ru; Luzhnetskaya nab 24; mSportivnaya)

This giant stadium (home to football club FC Torpedo) is the capital's largest, seating nearly 81,000 people. The stadium is part of the Luzhniki Olympic Complex, which was the chief venue for the 1980 Summer Olympics. In recent years, it underwent a major upgrade, in preparation for hosting the 2018 World Cup Final.

Pioner CinemaCINEMA

(Кинотеатр Пионер MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-240 5240; http://pioner-cinema.ru; Kutuzovsky pr 21; mKievskaya)

Almost all of the films shown in Russia are dubbed into the Russian language, but this cinema theatre is a pleasant exception. Apart from sticking with the original language, it screens festival and art-house films that you won't be able to see elsewhere.

Zamoskvorechie

Moscow International House of MusicCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-730 1011; www.mmdm.ru; Kosmodemyanskaya nab 52/8; tickets R200-2000; mPaveletskaya)

This graceful, modern glass building has three halls, including Svetlanov Hall, which holds the largest organ in Russia. Needless to say, organ concerts held here are impressive. This is the usual venue for performances by the National Philharmonic of Russia (Национальный филармонический оркестр России MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-730 3778; www.nfor.ru), a privately financed, highly lauded, classical-music organisation. Founded in 1991, the symphony is directed and conducted by the esteemed Vladimir Spivakov.

Strelka InstituteARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.strelkainstitute.ru; Bersenevskaya nab 14/5; mKropotkinskaya, Polyanka)

This institute is the focal point of the development at the Red October chocolate factory. Aside from the course offerings and the popular bar, Strelka brings a healthy dose of contemporary culture to Moscow, hosting lectures, workshops, film screenings and concerts.

7Shopping

News flash: Moscow is an expensive city. So don’t come looking for bargains. Do come looking for creative and classy clothing and jewellery by local designers; an innovative art scene; high-quality handicrafts, linens, glassware and folk art; and unusual souvenirs that you won’t find anywhere else.

Excellent shopping streets include the famous ul Arbat, crammed with souvenir stalls; swanky ul Petrovka, with its nearby pleasant pedestrian lanes; and charming Nikolskaya ul, terminating at the gated fashion fantasy world inside Tretyakovsky proezd.

The city’s new contemporary-art centres house art galleries, as well as performance and studio space, clubs, cafes and other creative enterprises. Here, you can see the works of many artists under one roof (or at least in one block).

Kremlin & Kitay Gorod

GUMMALL

(ГУМ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gum.ru; Krasnaya pl 3; h10am-10pm; mPloshchad Revolyutsii)

Behind its elaborate 240m-long facade on the northeastern side of Red Square, GUM is a bright, bustling shopping mall with hundreds of fancy stores and restaurants. With a skylight roof and three-level arcades, the spectacular interior was a revolutionary design when it was built in the 1890s, replacing the Upper Trading Rows that previously occupied this site.

GUM shopping mall, Moscow | PETE SEAWARD / LONELY PLANET ©

Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky

oTransylvaniaMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-629 8786; www.transylvania.ru; Tverskaya ul 6/1, bldg 5; h11am-10pm; mTeatralnaya)

From the courtyard, look for the black metal door that leads down into this dungeon of a shop, which houses room after room of CDs, in every genre imaginable. If you are curious about the russky rock scene, this is where you can sample some songs.

oYekaterinaFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(Екатерина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mexa-ekaterina.ru; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 11; h11am-9pm; mTeatralnaya)

One of Russia’s oldest furriers, this place has been manufacturing shapky (fur hats) and shuby (fur coats) since 1912. While Yekaterina has always maintained a reputation for high-quality furs and leather, its designs are constantly changing and updating to stay on top of fashion trends.

RoomchikCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-629 6241; http://roomchik.ru; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 9, entrance 2, fl 2; hnoon-9pm)

A showroom of a popular online shop, which focuses primarily on little-known Russian designer brands. Definitely a place to look for high-quality clothes that nobody else has.

Yeliseev GroceryFOOD & DRINKS

(Елисеевский магазин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tverskaya ul 14; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mPushkinskaya)

Peek in here for a glimpse of pre-revolutionary grandeur, as the store is set in the former mansion of the successful merchant Yeliseev. It now houses an upscale market selling caviar and other delicacies. It’s a great place to shop for souvenirs for your foodie friends back home.

TsvetnoySHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-737 7773; Tsvetnoy bul 15, str 1; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

Of all shopping centres in central Moscow, this is the funkiest, with clothes and interior-design items from international and emerging Russian brands, a good bookstore and a great food court on the upper floor.

TsUMDEPARTMENT STORE

(ЦУМ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tsum.ru; ul Petrovka 2; mTeatralnaya)

TsUM stands for Tsentralny Universalny Magazin (Central Department Store). Built in 1909 as the Scottish-owned Muir & Merrilees, it was the first department store aimed at middle-class shoppers. These days it’s filled with designer labels and luxury items.

Podarki vMeste s VorovskiGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Подарки вМесте с Воровски MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/svorovskim; Kuznetsky most 21/5; h10am-9pm; mLubyanka)

This sweet little boutique houses a cooperative of four designer gift producers. The rather cramped space is filled with hundreds of useful and useless (but pretty) items, including Galereyka's felt slippers and hats (some shaped as Soviet tanks) and Ptitsa Sinitsa's stylish ceramics with Eastern European folklore motifs.

Meshchansky & Basmanny

Mir KinoMUSIC

(Мир кино MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-628 5145; ul Maroseyka 6/8 str 2; h11am-9pm; mKitay-Gorod)

This tiny shop that sells secondhand vinyl and CDs has a few shelves dedicated to Russian indie music from the 1980s to present. There is also a Korean dumpling shop in the same premises.

Naivno? Ochen!HOMEWARES

(Наивно? Очень! MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-678 0162; www.orz-design.ru; ArtPlay, ul Nizhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya per 10; h11am-10pm; mKurksaya)

These folks do a great service selling souvenirs – cups, plates and T-shirts – themed on inspired and whimsical drawings produced by children with special needs. Proceeds go to charities that help them. It's a big deal for a country that lags far behind the West on that front.

Biblio-GlobusBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-781 1900; www.biblio-globus.ru; Myasnitskaya ul 6; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; mLubyanka)

Moscow’s favourite bookshop is huge, with lots of souvenir books devoted to language, art and history, and a good selection of maps and travel guides. A user-friendly computerised catalogue will help you find what you’re looking for. Just to prove that Russia’s consumer culture can keep up with the best of them, there's a coffee shop on the ground floor.

Khokhlovka OriginalCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://hhlvk.ru; Khokhlovsky per 7; hnoon-10pm; mKitay-Gorod)

This is about the most clandestine fashion store we've ever reviewed. To get in, enter a graffiti-covered courtyard, then look for a small gap between two single-storey buildings on your left – the door is inside the tiny passage. The small showroom displays clothes and accessories produced by dozens of young (but often stellar) Russian designers.

Odensya Dlya SchastyaCLOTHING

(Оденься для счастья MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pokrovka 31; h11am-9pm; mKurskaya)

This sweet boutique – encouraging shoppers to ‘dress for happiness’ – carries unique clothing by a few distinctive designers, including Moscow native Oleg Biryukov. The designer’s eponymous label features refined styles with long, flowing lines and subdued, solid colours. The tastefulness and elegance exemplify the new direction of Russian fashion.

Presnya

PonaroshkuTOYS

(Понарошку MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ponaroshku.ru; Maly Palashevsky per 2/8; h10.30am-8.30pm; mPushkinskaya)

This tiny store is packed with books, games, plush animals and beautiful painted wooden toys. This is the place to find some souvenirs for the little people in your life.

Valentin Yudashkin BoutiqueFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.yudashkin.com; Bldg 1, Voznesenskiy per 6/3; h10am-7pm; mKievskaya)

The best-known Russian fashion designer is Valentin Yudashkin, whose classy clothes are on display at the Louvre and the Met, as well as the State History Museum in Moscow (look but don’t touch!). If you wish to try something on, head to this swanky boutique, which seems like a museum but has many things that you can, in fact, buy.

Arbat & Khamovniki

Russian Embroidery & LaceGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Русская вышивка и кружево MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Arbat 31; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mSmolenskaya)

Considering the lack of flashy signs and kitsch, it would be easy to miss this plain storefront on the Arbat. But inside there are treasures galore, from elegant tablecloths and napkins to delicate handmade sweaters and embroidered shirts.

Russkie Chasovye TraditsiiJEWELLERY

(Русские часовые традиции MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.smirs.com; ul Arbat 11; h10am-9pm; mArbatskaya)

If you're in the market for a fancy timepiece, pop into the Arbat outlet of ‘Russian Watch Traditions’. On this touristy drag, these small shops carry exclusively Russian brands, including Aviator, Buran, Vostok, Poljot, Romanoff and Denissov.

Association of Artists of the Decorative ArtsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Ассоциация художников декоративно-прикладного искусства; AHDI MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ahdi.ru; ul Arbat 21; h11am-8pm; mArbatskaya)

Look for the ceramic number plate and the small sign indicating the entrance to this 'exposition hall', which is actually a cluster of small shops, each showcasing arts and crafts by local artists. In addition to paintings and pottery, the most intriguing items are the gorgeous knit sweaters, woolly coats and embroidered dresses – all handmade and unique.

Zamoskvorechie

AlyonkaCHOCOLATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shop.alenka.ru; Bersenevskaya nab 6, str 1; h10am-8pm; mPolyanka, Kropotkinskaya)

Although the old Red October chocolate factory has long been converted into a hipster den, you can still sample the products of Russian chocolatiers at the shop located at the far end of the old factory. Alyonka is an iconic Soviet brand of chocolate candies with a picture of a rosy-cheeked peasant girl wearing a kerchief on the wrapper.

Gzhel PorcelainCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://farfor-gzhel.ru; Pyatnitskaya ul 10, str 1; h10am-9pm)

Gzhel porcelain, with its signature white-and-blue folkloric decor, is sold here.

WORTH A TRIP

IZMAYLOVO

Never mind the kitschy mock Kremlin that surrounds it, Izmaylovsky Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kremlin-izmailovo.com; Izmaylovskoye sh 73; h10am-8pm; mPartizanskaya) is the ultimate place to shop for matryoshka dolls, military uniforms, icons, Soviet badges, and some real antiques. Huge and diverse, it is almost a theme park, with shops, cafes and a couple of not terribly exciting museums.

Serious antiquarians occupy the 2nd floor of the wooden trade row surrounding the palace, but for really good stuff you need to come here at an ungodly hour on Saturday morning and compete with pros from Moscow galleries. Keep in mind that Russia bans the export of any item older than 100 years. Feel free to negotiate, but don’t expect vendors to come down more than 10%. This place is technically open every day, but many vendors come out only on weekends, when the selection is greater.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

AMoscow is mostly a safe city.

AAs in any big city, be on guard against pickpockets, especially around train stations and in crowded metro cars.

AAlways be cautious about taking taxis late at night, especially near bars and clubs. Never get into a car that already has two or more people in it.

AAlways carry a photocopy of your passport and visa. If stopped by a member of the police force, it is perfectly acceptable to show a photocopy.

AYour biggest threat in Moscow is xenophobic or overly friendly drunks.

Emergency

Tourist Helpline	%8-800-220 0001/2
Universal Emergency Number	%112

Internet Access

Almost all hotels and hostels offer wi-fi, as do many bars, restaurants and cafes. It isn’t always free, but it is ubiquitous. There is also free wi-fi on the metro and at hot spots around the city.

To use the free wi-fi, you will be obliged to register your phone number to obtain a pass code. Some services only accept Russian telephone numbers, in which case you may have to ask a local to use their number.

Media

The weekly Moscow Times (www.themoscowtimes.com) is the last remaining publication for English-language news. It covers Russian and international issues, as well as sport and entertainment. Find it at hotels and restaurants around town.

Medical Services

Hospitals

Both the International Clinic MEDSI and the European Medical Centre accept health insurance from major international providers.

Botkin Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-945 0045; www.mosgorzdrav.ru; 2-y Botkinsky proezd 5; h24hr; mBegovaya) The best Russian facility. From Begovaya metro station, walk 1km northeast on Khoroshevskoe sh and Begovoy pr. Turn left on Begovaya ul and continue to 2-y Botkinsky proezd.

European Medical Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-933 6655; www.emcmos.ru; Spirodonevsky per 5; h24hr; mMayakovskaya) Includes medical and dental facilities, which are open around the clock for emergencies. The staff speak 10 languages.

International Clinic MEDSI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-933 7700; https://medsi.ru; Grokholsky per 1; h24hr; mProspekt Mira) Offers 24-hour emergency service, consultations and a full range of medical specialists, including paediatricians and dentists. There is also an on-site pharmacy with English-speaking staff.

Pharmacies

36.6 Arbat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Novy Arbat 15; h9am-10pm; mArbatskaya)

36.6 Basmanny ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pokrovka 1/13; h9am-9pm; mKitay-Gorod)

36.6 Tverskaya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tverskaya ul 25/9; h24hr; mMayakovskaya)

36.6 Zamoskvorechie ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Klimentovsky per 12; h8am-10pm; mTretyakovskaya)

Money

AATMs, linked to international networks are all over Moscow – look for bankomat (банкомат) signs.

ACredit cards accepted by most hotels and restaurants. Americans may have some difficulty if they do not have a 'chip and pin' credit card. This is more of a problem at shops than at hotels and restaurants.

AUS dollars and euros are widely accepted at exchange bureaus.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Myasnitskaya ul 26; h24hr; mChistye Prudy)

Telephone

There are now four area codes operating within Moscow. Both %495 and %499 are used in the city, while %496 and %498 are used on the outskirts.

For all calls within Russia (including within Moscow), you must dial %8 plus the 10-digit number including the area code.

Tourist Information

Discover Moscow (https://um.mos.ru/en/discover-moscow) A comprehensive site organised by the City of Moscow.

Tourist Hotline (%8-800-220 0001, %8-800-220 0002, %495-663 1393)

Kremlin Left-Luggage Office (Alexander Garden; h9am-6.30pm Fri-Wed)

8Getting There & Away

Air

Most travellers arrive in Moscow by air, flying into one of the city’s four international airports:

Sheremetyevo (Шереметьево GOOGLE MAP ; %495-578 6565; www.svo.aero) 30km northwest of the city centre, this is Moscow's busiest airport. The Aeroexpress Train makes the 35-minute trip between Sheremetyevo (located next to Terminal E) and Belorussky vokzal every half-hour from 5.30am to 12.30am.

Domodedovo (Домодедово GOOGLE MAP ; %495-933 6666; www.domodedovo.ru) About 48km south of the city is the city’s most efficient international airport. The Aeroexpress Train leaves Paveletsky vokzal every half-hour between 6am and midnight for the 45-minute trip to Domodedovo.

Vnukovo (Внуково GOOGLE MAP ; %495-937 5555; www.vnukovo.ru) About 30km southwest of the city centre, this airport mostly has flights to/from the Caucasus, Moldova and Kaliningrad, as well as domestic flights and a smattering of flights to Europe. The Aeroexpress Train makes the 35-minute run from Kievsky vokzal to Vnukovo airport every hour from 6am to 11pm.

Zhukovsky (Жуковский GOOGLE MAP ; %495-228 9600; http://zia.aero) Opened in 2016, Moscow's fourth international airport is about 40km southeast of the city. It mostly serves Central Asian destinations, and is a hub for Ural Airlines.

Boat

There are numerous cruise boats plying the routes between Moscow and St Petersburg, most stopping at Uglich, Yaroslavl, Goritsky Monastery, Kizhi and Mondrogy (near Lake Ladoga). Ships are similar in quality and size, carrying about 250 passengers.

Bus

Bus service may be useful for destinations that are not served by train. The central bus station (Центральный автовокзал, Щёлковский автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %499-748 8029; www.avtovokzaly.ru; mShchyolkovskaya), sometimes called Shchyolkovsky bus station, is located 8km east of the city centre. Long-distance buses travel to Ivanovo (R750, 5½ hours, eight daily), Kyiv (R1600, 16 hours, 3.45pm), Minsk (R1100, 12 hours, 6.40pm), Nizhny Novgorod (R900, six hours, three daily) via Vladimir (R400, 3½ hours), Plyos (R850, seven hours, 6pm) and Yuryev-Polsky (R450, four hours, four daily). It’s advisable to book ahead, especially for travel on weekends.

Car & Motorcycle

Driving in and around Moscow is difficult, to say the least, due to massive traffic jams, challenging navigation and shortages of parking. That said, you may wish to hire a car if you are leaving the city, eg taking a day trip to sites around Moscow or driving around the Golden Ring.

Train

Rail riders will arrive at one of Moscow's central train stations, all with easy access to the metro. Most taxi companies offer a fixed rate of R400 to R600 for a train station transfer.

Stations

Belarus Station (Белорусский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://belorussky.dzvr.ru; Tverskaya Zastava pl; W; mBelorusskaya) has trains to/from northern and central Europe, as well as suburban trains to/from the west, including Mozhaysk and Borodino. This is also where you'll catch the Aeroexpress Train to Sheremetyevo international airport.

Kazan Station (Казанский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://kazansky.dzvr.ru; Komsomolskaya pl; W; mKomsomolskaya) has trains to/from Kazan and points southeast, as well as some trains to/from Vladimir, Nizhny Novgorod, the Ural Mountains and Siberia.

Kiev Station (Киевский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; www.kievsky-vokzal.ru; Kievskaya pl; W; mKievskaya) serves Kyiv and western Ukraine, as well as points further west, such as Moldova, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, Prague, Romania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Serbia and Greece. This is also where you'll catch the Aeroexpress Train to Vnukovo international airport.

Kursk Station (Курский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://kursky.dzvr.ru; pl Kurskogo vokzala; mKurskaya) serves Oryol, Kursk, Krasnodar, Adler, the Caucasus, eastern Ukraine, Crimea, Georgia and Azerbaijan. It also has some trains to/from Rostov-on-Don, Vladimir, Nizhny Novgorod and Perm; and suburban trains to/from the east and south, including Chekhov and Tula.

Leningrad Station (Ленинградский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://leningradsky.dzvr.ru; Komsomolskaya pl; W; mKomsomolskaya) serves Tver, Novgorod, Pskov, St Petersburg, Vyborg, Murmansk, Estonia and Helsinki. Note that sometimes this station is referred to on timetables and tickets by its former name, Oktyabrsky (Октябрский).

Pavelets Station (Павелецкий вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://paveletsky.dzvr.ru; Paveletskaya pl; mPaveletskaya) serves points south, including the Volga region and Central Asia. This is also the departure/arrival point for the Aeroexpress Train to Domodedovo international airport.

Rīga Station (Рижский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://rizhsky.dzvr.ru; Rizhskaya pl; mRizhskaya) serves Latvia, with suburban trains to/from the northwest, including Istra and Novoierusalimskaya.

Yaroslav Station (Ярославский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://yaroslavsky.dzvr.ru; Komsomolskaya pl; W; mKomsomolskaya) The main station for Trans-Siberian trains, with services to Yaroslavl, Arkhangelsk, Vorkuta, the Russian Far East, Mongolia, China and North Korea; some trains to/from Vladimir, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda, Perm, the Ural Mountains and Siberia, and suburban trains to/from the northeast, including Abramtsevo and Sergiev Posad.

TRAINS CONNECTING MOSCOW & ST PETERSBURG

All trains to St Petersburg depart from Leningrad Station. Book your tickets at any train station or through your hotel. Alternatively, buy tickets online at the official site of the Russian railroad (www.rzd.ru).

Overnight

There are about a dozen overnight trains connecting the cities. Most depart between 10pm and 1am, arriving the following morning between 6am and 8am. On the more comfortable firmeny trains, a 1st-class SV ticket (two-person cabin) costs R5500 to R7000, while a 2nd-class kupe (four-person cabin) is R3000 to R4000.

Sample departure times and fares:

2 Krasnaya Strela 1st-/2nd-class R7000/3600, eight hours, 11.55pm

4 Ekspress 1st-/2nd-class R5300/3400, nine hours, 11.30pm

20 Megapolis 1st-/2nd-class R6300/3800, 8½ hours, 12.20am

54 Grand Express 1st-/2nd-class R6600/3840, nine hours, 11.40pm

Sapsan

Travelling at speeds of 200km/h Sapsan trains connect the cities in about four hours or less. Trains depart throughout the day. Comfortable seats cost R3500 to R4500.

8Getting Around

Most visitors won't need anything but Moscow's super-efficient metro system, which allows you to get to pretty much anywhere in the city without thinking about complicated bus or tram routes. Connecting to the metro, an overground railway ring line (Moscow Central Ring) circles the city, which may be useful for some sights on the outskirts.

To/From the Airports

The three main airports – not yet including Zhukovsky – are accessible by the convenient Aeroexpress Train (%8-800-700 3377; www.aeroexpress.ru; one way R420; h6am-midnight) from the city centre; reduced rates are available for online purchases. Alternatively, order an official airport taxi from the dispatcher's desk in the terminal (R2000 to R2500 to the city centre). You can save some cash by booking in advance to take advantage of the fixed rates offered by most companies (usually from R1500 to R1800 to/from any airport). Driving times vary wildly depending on the traffic.

CITY TRANSPORT TICKETS

Moscow has a unified ticketing system. All tickets are essentially smart cards that you must tap on the reader at the turnstiles before entering a metro station or on the bus.

Most convenient for short-term visitors is the red Ediny (Единый) ticket, which is good for all kinds of transport and available at metro stations. Depending on your time and logistics, you can choose between buying a ticket good for a single trip for R55, two trips for R110, 20 trips for R720, 40 trips for R1440 or 60 trips for R1700.

If you are staying in Moscow for more than a few days, it is recommended that you get a Troika (Тройка) top-up card, also available at metro stations. It works on all kinds of transport and gives a slightly cheaper rate than Ediny.

If your accommodation warrants taking a bus or tram to the nearest metro station, you may consider buying a 90 Minutes card (single trip R65), which includes one metro ride and an unlimited number of bus/tram/trolleybus rides.

Another ticket type is TAT, which is only good for trams, buses and trolleybuses, but it is of little use for most visitors.

Bicycle

There are more and more bicycles on the streets and pavements of Moscow. Cycling in the centre of Moscow is still a dangerous prospect, as the streets are overcrowded with fast-moving cars and the exhaust fumes are nasty.

That said, the city has launched a campaign to make the city safer for cyclists. As of 2016, there were some 250km of bike lanes, with plans for an additional 500km to be painted in coming years. There are a few parks and other off-road areas that are suitable for pleasure riding, including Gorky Park, Vorobyovy Gory Nature Preserve, Sokolniki and VDNKh.

If you're nervous about navigating the streets on your own (or if you just want some company), Moscow Bike Tours are a great way to see the city by bicycle.

BIKE SHARE

Moscow's new bike-share program is VeloBike (www.velobike.ru), an innovative system designed to cut down on traffic and encourage healthier living in the capital. It started in 2013 and now offers some 2700 bicycles at 350 stations around the city.

AGo online to purchase a membership (R150 for a day, R600 for a month, plus deposit). Now you are ready to roll!

AUse your credit card to unlock a bike at any station, go for a ride, and return your bike to any station. The first 30 minutes incurs no additional charge, but after that you'll pay for use.

AThe system is designed for transportation rather than recreation, so it's a good deal for short rides from point A to point B. For longer rides, you may be better off renting from Oliver Bikes.

Boat

For new perspectives on Moscow’s neighbourhoods, fine views of the Kremlin, or just good, old-fashioned transport, a boat ride on the Moscow River is one of the city’s highlights. Capital Shipping Co (CCK, Столичная Судоходная Компания %495-225 6070; www.cck-ship.ru; adult/child 1hr cruise R900/700, 2-day pass R2400/2000) offers a two-day pass, so you can get on and off wherever you wish.

Bus, Trolleybus & Tram

Buses, trolleybuses and trams might be necessary for reaching some sights away from the city centre. Marshrutki (private buses and minibuses) are particularly useful to reach some destinations on the outskirts of Moscow. Buses can also be useful for a few cross-town or radial routes that the metro misses. In particular, there are several buses that run around the Kremlin Ring (Mokhovaya ul, ul Okhotny Ryad, Teatralyny pr, Staray pl), which is useful for the city centre.

If you don't have a ticket, you can buy one or several single-trip Ediny tickets from the driver for R55 per ticket.

Metro

The Moscow Metro (www.mosmetro.ru; per ride R55) is by far the easiest, quickest and cheapest way of getting around Moscow. Plus, many of the elegant stations are marble-faced, frescoed, gilded works of art. The 150-plus stations are marked outside by large ‘M’ signs.

Reliability The trains are generally reliable: you will rarely wait on a platform for more than three minutes. Nonetheless, they do get packed, especially during the city’s rush hours.

Tickets Ediny and Troika cards are sold at ticket booths. Queues can be long, so it’s useful (and slightly cheaper) to buy a multiple-ride ticket.

Maps & Signage Stations have maps of the system at the entrance and signs on each platform showing the destinations. The maps are generally in Cyrillic and Latin script, although the signs are usually only in Cyrillic. The carriages also have maps inside that show the stops for that line in both Roman and Cyrillic letters.

Transfers Interchange stations are linked by underground passages, indicated by perekhod signs, usually blue with a stick figure running up the stairs. Be aware that when two or more lines meet, the intersecting stations often (but not always) have different names.

Moscow Central Ring Operated by Russian Railways, the new ring line complements the existing metro system and is good for moving between such far-flung attractions as Izmaylovsky Market, the Botanical Gardens ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gbsad.ru; mBotanichesky Sad) and Moscow International Business Centre.

Taxi

Taxi cabs are affordable. Unfortunately, you can't really flag down an official metered taxi in the street and most taxi drivers and dispatchers do not speak English.

These days, most people use mobile phone apps, such as Yandex.Taxi (Яндекс.Такси https://taxi.yandex.com), to order a cab. This solves the language barrier issue to an extent, given that you know the precise departure and destination address. If you have the app, try to make sure it's easy to park where you are, otherwise the driver will start calling you and asking questions in Russian.

You can also order an official taxi by phone or book it online, or get a Russian-speaker to do this for you. Normally, the dispatcher will ring you back within a few minutes to provide a description and licence number of the car. Most companies will send a car within 30 minutes of your call. Some reliable companies offer online scheduling.

Detskoe Taxi (Детское Такси %495-765 1180; www.detskoetaxi.ru) ‘Children’s Taxi’ has smoke-free cars and car seats for your children.

Lingo Taxi (www.lingotaxi.com) Promises English-speaking drivers (and usually delivers).

New Yellow Taxi (Новое жёлтое такси %495-940 8888; www.nyt.ru)

Taxi Blues (%495-925 5115; www.taxi-blues.ru)

Unofficial Taxis

This is now less common, but in the past almost any car in Moscow could be a taxi if the price was right. In the centre, you can often still stick your arm out and someone will stop pretty soon.

AMany private cars cruise around as unofficial taxis, and other drivers will often take you if they’re going in roughly the same direction.

AExpect to pay R300 to R500 for a ride around the city centre.

ADon’t hesitate to wave on a car if you don’t like the look of its occupants. As a general rule, it’s best to avoid riding in cars that already have a passenger. Be particularly careful taking a taxi that is waiting outside a nightclub or bar.

Around Moscow

As you leave Moscow, the fast-paced modern capital fades from view and the slower-paced, old-fashioned countryside unfolds around you. The subtly changing landscape of the Moscow region (Подмосковье) is crossed by winding rivers and dotted with peasant villages – the classic provincial Russia immortalised by artists and writers over the centuries.

Country Estates

Abramtsevo Абрамцево

Railway tycoon and art patron Savva Mamontov bought this lovely estate 45km north of Moscow in 1870. Here, he hosted a whole slew of painters and musicians, including Ilya Repin, landscape artist Isaak Levitan, portraitist Valentin Serov and ceramicist Mikhail Vrubel, as well as opera singer Fyodor Chaliapin. Today the Abramtsevo Estate Museum-Preserve (Музей-заповедник Абрамцево GOOGLE MAP ; %496-543 2470; www.abramtsevo.net; Museynaya ul 1, Abramtsevo; grounds R60, buildings & grounds R400; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Mar) is a delightful retreat from Moscow or addition to a trip to nearby Sergiev Posad.

You can enter most of the buildings, some of which contain exhibits, if you buy the general admission ticket. The exception is the Manor House (Усадебный дом GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R300/150), which requires a separate admission ticket. The prettiest building is the Saviour Church ‘Not Made by Hand' (Храм Спаса Нерукотворного GOOGLE MAP ).

The best place to eat is Cafe Abramtsevo (Кафе Абрамцево GOOGLE MAP ; %8-915-177 3649; www.cafe-abramtsevo.ru; mains R340-640; h10am-6pm) across the street and down the lane from the main entrance to the estate.

Suburban trains run every half-hour from Moscow's Yaroslavsky station (R250, 1¼ hours). Most – but not all – trains to Sergiev Posad or Alexandrov stop at Abramtsevo. There are also regular buses between Abramtsevo and Sergiev Posad (R50, 20 minutes).

From the train platform, follow the foot trail through the woods, straight across the fire road, through a residential community and down a rough set of stairs. Before reaching the highway, turn left to cross the bridge and continue up into the parking area. The 1km walk is not well signposted.

Akhangelskoe Архангельское

In 1810, the wealthy Prince Nikolai Yusupov purchased this grand palace on the outskirts of Moscow, and turned it into the spectacular Arkhangelskoe Estate (Музей-усадьба Архангельское GOOGLE MAP ; %495-561 9759; www.arkhangelskoe.ru; grounds R150, grounds & museum R400; hgrounds 10am-8pm Wed-Sun, exhibits 10.30am-4.30pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun). Now his palace displays the paintings, furniture, sculptures, glass, tapestries and porcelain that Yusupov accumulated over the years. In June, the estate is the exquisite setting for the popular Usadba Jazz Festival ( GOOGLE MAP ; %499-248 3605; www.usadba-jazz.ru; tickets from R4000).

From Tushinskaya metro, take bus 541 or 549 or marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) 151 to Arkhangelskoe (R50, 30 minutes).

Peredelkino Переделкино

Boris Pasternak – poet, author of Doctor Zhivago and winner of the 1958 Nobel Prize for Literature – lived for a long time on Moscow’s southwestern outskirts, just 5km beyond the city’s outer ring road, where there is now the Pasternak House-Museum (Дом-Музей Бориса Пастернака GOOGLE MAP ; %495-934 5175; www.pasternakmuseum.ru; ul Pavlenko 3, Peredelkino; adult/child R150/100; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun). Run by his descendents, it's an authentic glimpse into the life of the writer.

Frequent suburban trains go from Moscow’s Kiev Station to Peredelkino (R60, 25 minutes) on the line to Kaluga-II station. From Peredelkino station, follow the path west along the train tracks past the cemetery (where Pasternak is buried) and over the bridge. After about 400m, ul Pavlenko is on the right-hand side.

Gorki Leninskie Горки Ленинские

In Lenin’s later years, he and his family spent time at the Morozov manor house, set on lovely wooded grounds, 32km southeast of the capital. The estate now houses a Lenin museum (Музей-заповедник «Горки Ленинские» GOOGLE MAP ; %495-548 9309; www.mgorki.ru; all exhibits R600; h10am-7pm Wed-Sun May-Sep, 10am-4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Apr) and a re-creation of Lenin’s Kremlin office and apartment, as well as his vintage Rolls-Royce.

Bus 439 (R62, 30 minutes) leaves every 90 minutes for the estate from the Domodedovskaya metro station in Moscow. From the bus stop, you have to walk about 1km through a residential neighbourhood to the museum grounds. By car, follow the M4 highway (Kashirskoe sh) to 11km beyond the MKAD ring road, then turn left to Gorki Leninskie. There is a cafe on the grounds.

Klin Клин

From 1885, composer Pyotr Tchaikovsky spent his summers in Klin, 75km northwest of Moscow. In a charming house on the edge of town, he wrote the Nutcracker and Sleeping Beauty, as well as his famous Pathétique Symphony No 6. After he died in 1893, the estate was converted into a museum (Дом-Музей Чайковского GOOGLE MAP ; %496-245 8196, 496-245 1050; www.tchaikovsky-house-museum.ru; ul Chaykovskogo 48, Klin; R500, audio guide R150, photography R200; h10am-5pm Fri-Tue). The house is maintained just as it was when Tchaikovsky lived here. You can peruse photographs and personal effects, but only special guests are allowed to play his grand piano. Occasional concerts are held in the concert hall here.

Suburban trains from Moscow’s Leningrad Station run to Klin (R180, one to 1½ hours) throughout the day. Most of these continue to Tver (R150, 45 minutes to one hour). From the station, take marshrutka 5 to Tchaikovsky’s estate.

Melikhovo Мелихово

‘My estate’s not much,’ wrote playwright Anton Chekhov of his home at Melikhovo, south of Moscow, ‘but the surroundings are magnificent’. Chekhov lived here from 1892 until 1899 and wrote some of his most celebrated plays, including The Seagull and Uncle Vanya. Today, the estate houses the museum (Музей-заповедник А.П. Чехова «Мелихово» GOOGLE MAP ; %8-916-484 7247; www.chekhovmuseum.com; adult/child R200/165; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) dedicated to the playwright and his work. Theatre buffs should visit in May, when the museum hosts Melikhovo Spring, a week-long theatre festival.

Suburban trains (R180, 1½ hours) run frequently from Moscow’s Kursk Station to Chekhov, 12km west of Melikhovo. Bus 25 makes the 20-minute journey between Chekhov and Melikhovo, with departures just about every hour.

Istra Истра

%498 / Population 35,100

In the 17th century, Nikon – the patriarch whose reforms drove the Old Believers from the Orthodox Church – decided to show one and all that Russia deserved to be the centre of the Christian world. He did this by building a little Holy City right at home, complete with its own Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

1Sights

New Jerusalem MonasteryMONASTERY

(Новоиерусалимский монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; www.n-jerusalem.ru; Sovietskaya ul 2; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May)F

This grandiose complex was founded in 1656 near the picturesque Istra River (renamed the ‘Jordan’ by Patriarch Nikon). Unlike other Moscow monasteries, this one had no military use. The centrepiece is the Cathedral of the Resurrection (Воскресенский собор), modelled after Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre. After years as a museum, the monastery is now in Orthodox hands and is looking quite spectacular after a recent renovation.

New Jerusalem MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Новый Иерусалим GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum-newjerusalem.ru; Novo-Ierusalimsckaya nab 1; exhibits each R200-500, all R650; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat, to 7pm Sun)

The huge 'new' New Jersalem Museum is a modern, state-of-the-art museum, located across the river from the eponymous monastery. Exhibits draw on the hundreds of thousands of items in the monastery collections, including weapons, icons and artwork from the 17th century to modern times. Highlights include personal items belonging to Patriarch Nikon, as well as 20th-century drawings and handicrafts from around the Moscow region.

8Getting There & Away

Suburban trains run from Moscow’s Rizhsky vokzal to Istra (R145, 1½ hours, hourly), from where buses run to the Muzey stop by the New Jerusalem Monastery. The 20-minute walk from Istra train station is a pleasant alternative.

Borodino Бородино

In 1812 Napoleon invaded Russia, lured by the prospect of taking Moscow. For three months the Russians retreated, until on 26 August the two armies met in a bloody battle of attrition at the village of Borodino. In 15 hours, more than one third of each army was killed – over 100,000 soldiers in all. Europe would not again experience fighting as devastating as this until WWI. The French seemed to be the winners, as the Russians withdrew and abandoned Moscow. But Borodino was, in fact, the beginning of the end for Napoleon, who was soon in full, disastrous retreat.

Two hundred years later, the rural site presents a vivid history lesson. Start at the Borodino Museum (Музей-панорама 'Бородинская битва' GOOGLE MAP ; www.borodino.ru; adult/student R200/100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr), which provides a useful overview, then spend the rest of the day exploring the 100-sq-km preserve. If you have your own car, you can see monuments marking the sites of the most ferocious fighting, as well as the headquarters of both the French and Russian armies. If you come by train, you’ll probably be limited to the monuments along the road between the train station and the museum (which is many).

The rolling hills around Borodino and Semyonovskoe are largely undeveloped, due to their historic status. Facilities are extremely limited; if you forgot to pack your picnic, there's a small cafe (Арт-Кафе Бородино GOOGLE MAP ; mains R400-600) on the museum grounds serving Russian standards.

1Sights

Borodino FieldHISTORIC SITE

(Бородинское поле GOOGLE MAP ; www.borodino.ru; museum & all exhibits R400)

The entire battlefield – more than 100 sq km – is now part of the Borodino Field Museum-Preserve, its vast fields dotted with dozens of memorials to specific divisions and generals. The hilltop monument in front of Borodino Museum is Bagration’s tomb (Могила Багратиона), the grave of Prince Bagration, a heroic Georgian infantry general who was mortally wounded in battle. The front line was roughly along the 4km road from Borodino train station to the museum: you’ll see many monuments close to the road.

Further south, a concentration of monuments around Semyonovskoe marks the battle’s most frenzied fighting. Here, Bagration’s heroic Second Army, opposing far more numerous French forces, was virtually obliterated. Apparently, Russian commander Mikhail Kutuzov deliberately sacrificed Bagration’s army to save his larger First Army, opposing lighter French forces in the northern part of the battlefield. Kutuzov’s headquarters are marked by an obelisk in the village of Gorky. Another obelisk near Shevardino to the southwest, paid for in 1912 with French donations, marks Napoleon’s camp.

The battle scene was recreated during WWII, when the Red Army confronted the Nazis on this very site. Memorials to this battle also dot the fields, and WWII trenches surround the monument to Bagration. Near the train station are two WWII mass graves.

8Getting There & Away

A suburban train leaves from Moscow's Belorussky station to Borodino (R255, 2½ hours) at 7.51am (with additional trains departing at 9.52am and 11.22am on weekends). There are return trains at 3.29pm and 8.22pm. It's a 4km walk from Borodino station through the battlefield to Borodino Museum.

Since the area is rural, visiting by car is more convenient and probably more rewarding. If driving from Moscow, stay on the M1 highway (Minskoe sh) until the Mozhaysk turn-off, 95km beyond the Moscow outer ring road. It’s 5km north to Mozhaysk, then 13km west to Borodino village.