Golden Ring
Golden Ring Highlights
Vladimir
Suzdal
Plyos
Kostroma
Yaroslavl
Rostov-Veliky
Pereslavl-Zalessky
Sergiev Posad
Golden Ring
Why Go?
Touring the Golden Ring, a string of medieval towns northeast of Moscow, is like settling into the comforting arms of Mother Russia: it's a bucolic realm of whitewashed churches with golden onion domes, rippling meadows blanketed with flowers, and samovars bubbling away in colourful gingerbread cottages. In contrast to Moscow's cosmopolitan chaos, these ancient towns are a cultural salve for the Slavic soul: you'll find the spiritual heart of the Orthodox Church here, as well as historic architecture, religious art, traditional cooking and time-honoured handicrafts. Centuries ago this was the power core of eastern Kyivan Rus, but it declined as Moscow took political centre stage. Largely untouched by Soviet industrialisation, it now attracts flocks of Russian tourists searching for a lost idyll.
Wander through medieval monasteries. Cycle the countryside. Unwind in a banya (hot bath) after a meal of freshly caught fish and local ale. Whatever you do, grab this Golden Ring for yourself.
When to Go
ALate Jan The air is crisp, the snow is fleecy and a hot banya awaits.
AJun Fields are covered in wildflowers – Russian nature never looks more beautiful.
AAug Thousands flock to the forests to pick mushrooms and wild berries.
Best Places to Stay
Golden Ring Highlights
1 Suzdal Rambling through bucolic beauty while church bells sigh in the distance.
2 Plyos Strolling alongside the Volga River in an artist's serene dream.
3 Sumarokovskaya Elk Farm Feeding carrots to elk and tasting their milk at this research farm.
4 Church of the Intercession on the Nerl Admiring the stunning simplicity of this tiny white church in Bogolyubovo.
5 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius Contemplating sonorous prayers during services at Russia's holiest monastery.
6 Rostov-Veliky Dipping your toes in Lake Nero before watching the sun set over the pink walls of a 17th-century fortress.
7 Traktir Popov Lug Savouring traditional dishes at this farm-to-table tavern outside Pereslavl-Zalessky.
8 Music & Time Listening to antique gramophones and a symphony of bells at this Yaroslavl museum.
9 Helio Spa Steaming out your travel fatigue at a banya in Suzdal.
Vladimir Владимир
%4922 / Pop 345,380 / Time Moscow
Founded at the dawn of the 12th century on a bluff over the Klyazma River, Vladimir became the cradle of Russian history when Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky moved his capital there from Kyiv in 1169. Thus began Vladimir's Golden Age, when many of the beautifully carved white-stone buildings for which the area is renowned were built by Bogolyubsky and his brother, Prince Vsevolod the Big Nest. After a Mongol invasion devastated the town in 1238, power shifted some 200km west to a minor settlement called Moscow. Though Vladimir eventually rebounded from the ruins, it would never regain its former glory.
Today this bustling city is the administrative centre of Vladimir Oblast. Although not as charmingly bucolic as nearby Suzdal, Vladimir's easy access from Moscow, its cluster of centrally located Unesco-listed sights and its stunning river-valley panoramas make it an ideal starting point for a Golden Ring tour.
Vladimir
1Sights
1Sights
A two-hour self-guided walking tour (R350) with an English audio guide and a map of the city centre is available for hire at the small tourist information office.
oAssumption CathedralCHURCH
(Успенский собор
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4922-325 201; www.vladmuseum.ru; Sobornaya pl; adult/child R100/free; 
hvisitors 1-4.45pm Tue-Sun)
Set dramatically high above the Klyazma River, this simple but majestic piece of pre-Mongol architecture is the legacy of Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky, the man who began shifting power from Kyiv to northeastern Rus (which eventually evolved into Muscovy). A white-stone version of Kyiv’s brick Byzantine churches, the cathedral was constructed from 1158 to 1160, though it was rebuilt and expanded after a fire in 1185. It was added to Unesco's World Heritage List in 1992.
The seat of the Vladimir and Suzdal diocese, the cathedral has held services for its entire history except from 1927 to 1944. The cool, hushed interior is a riot of gold leaf – the baroque iconostasis was constructed with a donation from Catherine the Great. A few restored 12th-century murals of peacocks and prophets can be seen about halfway up the inner wall of the outer north aisle (originally an outside wall); the real treasures, though, are the Last Judgement frescoes by Andrei Rublyov and Daniil Chyorny, painted in 1408 in the central nave and inner south aisle (under the choir gallery towards the western end).
Comply with the standard church dress code (no shorts for men; covered head and long skirts for women) at all times and be especially mindful of people's sensitivities outside the designated 'tourist time'. Tickets can be purchased at the small kiosk in the courtyard to the right of the cathedral.
oOld Vladimir MuseumVIEWPOINT, MUSEUM
(Музей 'Старый Владимир'
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vladmuseum.ru; ul Kozlov; adult/child R100/free; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri-Sun)
This red-brick former water tower contains a multistorey exhibit of everyday objects from Vladimir's history (no English signage); the display of old clocks and stopwatches is among the most interesting. But follow the curving staircase all the way up to find the real draw here: the observation deck, which offers magnificent 360-degree views of Vladimir, with the Klyazma River curling lazily off into the distance and gold church domes set against the surrounding blue sky and green fields.
Cathedral of St DmitryCHURCH
(Дмитриевский собор
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vladmuseum.ru; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 60; adult/child R100/free; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri-Sun May-Sep, 11am-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-Apr)
Built between 1193 and 1197, this exquisite, Unesco-listed white-stone cathedral represents the epitome of Russian stone carving. The attraction here is the cathedral’s exterior walls, which are covered in an amazing profusion of images. At their top centre, the north, south and west walls all show King David bewitching the birds and beasts with music.
Georgievskaya UlitsaSTREET, VIEWPOINT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This pedestrian-only street curving southwest from the main strip was lovingly recreated in 2015 as a brick-paved thoroughfare from the old days, dotted with souvenir stores, whimsical bronze statues of 19th-century locals and working water pumps; at its far end is the former water tower. It's a lovely place for a stroll – don't miss the broad viewing terraces at the eastern end, which offer stunning views of Assumption Cathedral (especially gorgeous floodlit at night).
History MuseumMUSEUM
(Исторический музей
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4922-322 284; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 64; adult/child R100/free; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7pm Fri-Sun)
This museum displays many remains and reproductions of the ornamentation from Vladimir’s two cathedrals as part of an extensive exhibition covering the history of the town from Kyivan princes to the 1917 revolution. Particularly interesting are the artefacts upstairs, including a remarkable keyboardless typewriter from 1905. The red-brick edifice was purpose-built in 1902.
Crystal, Lacquer Miniatures & Embroidery MuseumMUSEUM
(Выставка хрусталя, лаковой миниатюры и вышивки
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vladmuseum.ru; Dvoryanskaya ul 2; adult/child R100/free; h11am-7pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat)
Housed in the former Old Believers’ Trinity Church (1916), this museum features the crafts of Gus-Khrustalny and other nearby towns. The 1st floor displays a huge variety of crystal pieces (old and new), while upstairs is a collection of embroidered cloth and 19th-century lacquer boxes painted with scenes from Russian history. Keep an eye out for the particularly detailed 10-piece matryoshka (nesting doll) that's over a century old. A basement shop has a decent selection of crystal for sale.
Golden GateHISTORIC BUILDING, MUSEUM
(Золотые ворота
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4922-322 559; www.vladmuseum.ru; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 1; adult/child R100/free; h9am-6pm)
In the 1160s Andrei Bogolyubsky built five defensive gates to guard his city; only this former western entrance survives. It was later restored and expanded under Catherine the Great. Up the narrow stone staircase, a military museum displays weapons and armour from the 1200s through WWII (plus a 1970s cosmonaut suit); the centrepiece is a slightly fusty diorama of Vladimir being ravaged by Mongols in 1238, set to flashing lights and dramatic narration (English version available upon request).
4Sleeping
Vladimir's accommodation scene has expanded greatly in recent years, though given the proximity of the much more idyllic Suzdal, you may prefer to overnight there (unless you need to catch an early morning train to Moscow or Nizhny Novgorod).
RusHOTEL$$
(Русь
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; %4922-322 736; www.rushotel33.ru; ul Gagarina 14; s/d incl breakfast from R3000/3600; 
a
W)
Occupying a large old house on a quiet corner just two blocks from Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul, this hotel offers nicely appointed and comfortable (if rather beige) rooms with extra towels and bathrobes. Reception staff are helpful and speak some English. Breakfast is included.
Nice HostelHOSTEL$
(Найс Хостел
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; %4922-421 231, 8-902-888 5004; www.nicehostel33.ru; Manezhney t 1; dm/d from R510/1500; W)
This brand-new hostel won't win any design awards, but it's spotless and offers a free breakfast in the common kitchen. Dorm rooms (male-only, female-only and mixed) have four, six or eight beds; five doubles are available (three with private bathrooms), as well as a four-bed family room (R2600). There's a washing machine and iron for guest use.
Voznesenskaya SlobodaHOTEL$$$
(Вознесенская слобода
MAP
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; %4922-325 494; www.vsloboda.ru; ul Voznesenskaya 14b; d R4800; 
paW)
Perched on a bluff with tremendous views of the valley, this hotel has one of the most scenic locations in the area. Outside is a quiet neighbourhood of old wooden cottages and villas dominated by the elegant Ascension Church, whose bells chime idyllically throughout the day. The new building's interior is tastefully designed to resemble art nouveau style c 1900.
5Eating & Drinking
Salmon & CoffeeINTERNATIONAL$$
(Лосось и кофе
MAP
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; www.losos-coffee.ru; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 19a; mains R340-790; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 8am Fri & Sat; W)
Salmon is yet to be found in the Klyazma, and coffee is not exactly what medieval princes had for breakfast. But instead of hinting at the city’s past, this DJ cafe serving Asian and European dishes aims for a cosmopolitan touch in an ancient town. Lots of dark wood, dim lights and magenta-coloured metal railings create a cool, intriguing atmosphere.
Piteyny Dom Kuptsa AndreyevaRUSSIAN$$
(Питейный дом Купца Андреева
MAP
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; %4922-326 545; www.andreevbeer.com/dom; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 16; mains R350-685; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; W)
Merchant Andreyev's Liquor House, as the name translates, makes a half-hearted attempt to pass off as an old-world Russian kabak (pub), but its main virtues are the home-brewed beers on tap and hearty Russian meals, including all the classics – from shchi (cabbage soup) to bliny. Service can be slow, but the beer helps to make the time fly faster.
oRestaurant PanoramaRUSSIAN$$$
(Ресторан Панорама
MAP
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; %4922-464 746; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 44b; mains R380-1260; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
This upscale restaurant, hidden down a lane off the main street, offers perhaps the fanciest meal in town, with attentive service, an elegant atmosphere and – true to its name – great views over the river valley from your table. The menu features the usual salads, pasta and meat dishes, including a rabbit confit the restaurant insists is worth the wait.
oFour Brewers PubCRAFT BEER
(Паб Четыре Пивовара
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.4brewers.ru; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 12; h2pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
This pocket-sized pub offers 20 brews on tap and dozens more in bottles – porter, IPA, stout, ale, you name it – all from the brewers' own vats or other Russian microbreweries, with such unforgettable names as 'Banana Kraken', 'Santa Muerte', 'Roksana and the Endless Universe' and (our personal favourite) 'Black Jesus, White Pepper'. Bartenders happily offer recommendations and free tastes.
KofeinCAFE, COFFEE
(Кофеин
MAP
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; Gagarina ul 1; h8.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)
This smart cafe in the town centre offers a variety of delicious desserts and espresso-based coffees (as well as a full food menu). Vegans, rejoice – there's soy milk, too. Free wi-fi.
8Information
Post Office (РоссельхозБанк
MAP
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; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) Also has an ATM.
Russian Agricultural Bank (РоссельхозБанк
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr)
Sberbank (Сбербанк
MAP
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; Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul 27; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, ATM 24hr) Has exchange facilities.
Vladimir Tourist Information (
MAP
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; %4922-377 000; www.invladimir.ru/en; Sobornaya pl; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Located in a small house on the western side of Sobornaya pl.
Vladimir Region Tourist Information (www.tourism33.ru)
8Getting There & Away
Vladimir is on the main trans-Siberian line between Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod and on a major highway leading to Kazan.
Bus
The bus is a poor option from Moscow or Nizhny Novgorod – the train is much faster and more reliable. Conveniently for those heading on to Suzdal, the bus station (автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Vokzalnaya pl) is right across from Vladimir's train station (Владимир GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vokzalnaya 2).
Buses run to Suzdal (R95, 45 minutes, several times per hour) and Yaroslavl (R610 to R699, five hours, 7.15am and 4.30pm).
Taxi
A one-way taxi (%4922-555 555) to Suzdal costs approximately R600 (or download the Gett app from www.gett.com to order from your smartphone).
Train
There are nine services a day from Moscow's Kursk Station (Kursky vokzal), with modern Strizh and slightly less comfortable Lastochka trains (R600 to R1600, 1¾ hours). Both of these continue to Nizhny Novgorod (Strizh R1000 to R1750, Lastochka R800, two hours).
All long-distance trains heading towards Tatarstan and Siberia also call at Vladimir.
8Getting Around
Trolleybus 5 from the train and bus stations runs along Bolshaya Moskovskaya ul.
DON'T MISS
THE CHURCH OF PERFECTION
Tourists and pilgrims all flock to Bogolyubovo, just 12km northeast of Vladimir, for this perfect little jewel of a 12th-century church standing amid a flower-covered floodplain.
The Church of the Intercession on the Nerl is the gold standard of Russian architecture. Apart from ideal proportions, its beauty lies in a brilliantly chosen waterside location (floods aside) and the sparing use of delicate carving.
Legend has it that Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky had the church built in memory of his favourite son, Izyaslav, who was killed in battle against the Bulgars. As with the Cathedral of St Dmitry in Vladimir, King David sits at the top of three facades, the birds and beasts entranced by his music. The interior has more carvings, including 20 pairs of lions. If the church is closed (from October to April the opening hours are more sporadic), try asking at the house behind.
To reach this famous church, take bus 152 (R20) from the Golden Gate or Sobornaya pl in Vladimir and get off by the massive, blue-domed Bogolyubsky Monastery, which contains remnants of Prince Andrei’s palace. Walk past the monastery to Vokzalnaya ul, the first street on the right, and follow it down to the train station. Cross the pedestrian bridge over the railroad tracks and follow the stone path for 1km across the meadow. If driving, take the M7 east out of Vladimir until you get to the monastery, then turn right onto Vokzalnaya and park at the train station.
Suzdal Суздаль
%49231 / Population 10,535 / Time Moscow
The sparkling diamond in the Golden Ring is undoubtedly Suzdal – if you have time for only one of these towns, this is the one to see. With rolling green fields carpeted with dandelions, a gentle river curling lazily through a historic town centre, sunlight bouncing off golden church domes and the sound of horse clops and church bells carrying softly through the air, you may feel like you've stumbled into a storybook Russia.
Suzdal served as a royal capital when Moscow was still a cluster of cowsheds, and was a major monastic centre and an important commercial hub for many years as well. But in 1864, local merchants failed to get the Trans-Siberian Railway built through here (it went to Vladimir instead). Suzdal was thus bypassed both by trains and 20th-century progress, preserving its idyllic character for future visitors.
Suzdal
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oSaviour Monastery of St EuthymiusMONASTERY
(Спасо-Евфимиев монастырь
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-20 746; ul Lenina; adult/child R400/free; h10am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
Founded in the 14th century to protect the town’s northern entrance, Suzdal’s biggest monastery grew mighty in the 16th and 17th centuries after Vasily III, Ivan the Terrible and the noble Pozharsky family funded impressive new stone buildings and made large land and property acquisitions. It was girded with its great brick walls and towers in the 17th century.
Right at the entrance, the Annunciation Gate Church (Благовещенская надвратная церковь) houses an interesting exhibit on Dmitry Pozharsky (1578–1642), leader of the Russian army that drove the Polish invaders from Moscow in 1612.
A tall 16th- to 17th-century cathedral bell tower (Звонница) stands before the seven-domed Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Спасо-Преображенский собор); every hour on the hour from 11am to 5pm a short concert of chimes is played on its bells. The cathedral was built in the 1590s in 12th- to 13th-century Vladimir–Suzdal style. Inside, restoration has uncovered some bright 1689 frescoes by the school of Gury Nikitin from Kostroma. The tomb of Prince Dmitry Pozharsky is by the cathedral’s east wall.
The 1525 Assumption Refectory Church (Успенская церковь), facing the bell tower, adjoins the old Father Superior’s chambers (Палаты отца-игумена), which house a display of Russian icons and an excellent naive-art exhibition showcasing works by local amateur painters from the Soviet era.
The old Monastery Dungeon (Монастырская тюрьма), set up in 1764 for religious dissidents, is at the north end of the complex. It now houses a fascinating exhibit on the monastery’s prison history, including displays of some of the better-known prisoners who stayed here. The Bolsheviks used the monastery as a concentration camp after the 1917 revolution. During WWII, German and Italian officers captured in the Battle of Stalingrad were kept here.
To the northeast of the main cathedral group, the combined Hospital Chambers & St Nicholas Church (Больничные кельи и Никольская церковь) feature a rich collection of gold church treasures.
oKremlinFORTRESS
(Кремль
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GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-21 624; www.vladmuseum.ru; ul Kremlyovskaya; joint ticket adult/child R350/free; hexhibitions 9am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, grounds to 9pm)
The grandfather of the Moscow Kremlin, this citadel was the 12th-century base of Prince Yury Dolgoruky, who ruled the vast northeastern part of Kyivan Rus (and, among other things, founded a small outpost that would eventually become the Russian capital). The 1.4km-long earthen ramparts of Suzdal’s kremlin enclose a few streets of houses and a handful of churches, as well as the main cathedral group on ul Kremlyovskaya.
The Unesco-listed Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral (Церковь Казанской иконы Божьей Матери
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Suzdal kremlin, ul Kremlyovskaya; adult/child R100/free; h9am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat), its deep blue domes spangled with gold stars, was built in 1225 (only its richly carved lower section is original white stone, though, the rest being 16th-century brick). The inside is sumptuous, with 13th- and 17th-century frescoes and 13th-century damascene (gold on copper) west and south doors.
Within the kremlin, the Archbishop’s Chambers (Архиерейские палаты) house the Suzdal History Exhibition, which includes the original 13th-century door from the cathedral, photos of its interior and a visit to the 18th-century Cross Hall (Крестовая палата), which was used for receptions. The tent-roofed 1635 kremlin bell tower (Звонница), directly across the yard from the cathedral, contains additional exhibits, including the 17th-century Jordan Canopy (Иорданская сень), the only one of its kind left in Russia; every January on Epiphany Day, this 28m-tall painted wooden structure would be placed over a cross-shaped hole in the ice on the Kamenka for the annual rite of blessing the river water.
To the southwest, between the cathedral and the river, is the 1766 Nikolskaya Wooden Church (Никольская деревянная церковь), which was moved to Suzdal from a nearby village in 1960. Other rural wooden buildings were subsequently moved for preservation to the excellent Museum of Wooden Architecture & Peasant Life, across the river.
If you don't want to see all of the exhibitions, you can pay for admission to the cathedral separately; to walk around the grounds only costs R50 (children get in free).
oMuseum of Wooden Architecture & Peasant LifeMUSEUM
(Музей деревянного зодчества и крестьянского быта
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vladmuseum.ru; ul Pushkarskaya; adult/child R300/free; h9am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; 
c)
This open-air museum across the river from Suzdal's kremlin offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditional lives of rural folk in this area. Besides log houses, windmills, a barn, and lots of tools and handicrafts, its highlights are the 1756 Transfiguration Church (Преображенская церковь) and the simpler 1776 Resurrection Church (Воскресенская церковь). There's a similar museum in Kostroma, too.
A number of local artisans sell traditional crafts at a row of stalls set up on the left side of the site. They include Maria Frolova (Мария Фролова
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-920-936 3063; www.frolmaster-nn.ru), whose beautiful pieces of filigree embroidery make lovely, unique gifts.
Church of the Assumption of the Mother of GodCHURCH
(Храм успения божией матери
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Kremlyovskaya 8; h8am-8pm)
This small red church up the street from the kremlin features a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary created by 16th-century artist Fyodor Zubov, as well as a large gold-and-glass coffin containing the relics of St Arseny (1550–1625), the Archbishop of Suzdal.
Holy Intercession ConventCONVENT
(Свято-Покровский монастырь
MAP
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; www.spokrovmon.ru; Pokrovskaya ul; h7am-7pm)
F
It's a classic Suzdal picture: the whitewashed beauty of monastic walls surrounded by green meadows on the banks of the lazily meandering river. Inside are beds of brightly coloured flowers tended by the nuns, who live in wooden cottages left over from a rustic hotel built here when the convent was closed after the revolution (it was revived in 1992). Founded in 1364, this convent was originally a place of exile for the unwanted wives of tsars.
Torgovaya PloshchadSQUARE
(Торговая Площадь MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Suzdal’s Torgovaya pl (Market Sq) is dominated by the pillared Trading Arcades (Торговые ряды; 1806–11) along its western side. There are several churches in the immediate vicinity, including the 1739 Kazan Church (Казанская церковь) and the 1720 Resurrection Church (Воскресенская церковь) right on the square; the latter's hours are irregular but if it's open you can take the precarious climb to the top of the bell tower to be rewarded with wonderful views of Suzdal’s gold-domed skyline.
Across ul Lenina, the five-domed 1707 Tsar Constantine Church (Цареконстантиновская церковь) in the square’s northeastern corner is a working church with an ornate interior; next door is the 1750 Church of Our Lady of Sorrows (Скорбященская церковь).
2Activities
The gentle hills and attractive countryside around Suzdal are ideal for cycling, with bicycles available for rent at many hotels, including GTK Suzdal (ГТК Суздаль
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-23 380, 49231-20 908; www.gtksuzdal.ru; ul Korovniki 45; h10am-6pm). Gnezdo Pekarya (Гнездо пекаря), a small bakery on the river side of the Trading Arcades, also has a stand of bikes outside the shop with a price list in English.
Helio SpaBATHHOUSE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-23 939; www.suzdal.heliopark.ru; ul Korovniki 14)
Cleanse body and soul with a visit to a Russian banya. Beautiful lakeside bani can be rented at Helio Park Hotel for R1600/1800 per hour on weekdays/weekends (minimum two hours) for up to six to eight people; attendant services, such as a gentle thrashing with veniki (birch branches), are available at extra cost. Advance booking is necessary.
Boat TripsCRUISE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-916-423 2541; ul Pushkarskaya, at ul Tostogo; adult/child R350/free; hhourly noon-7pm)
Once an hour a boat takes tourists on a 40-minute cruise up and down the Kamenka River, leaving from the bridge by the Museum of Wooden Architecture. It's a good chance to look at and take pictures of Suzdal's many monasteries and churches from a different perspective. Call to enquire about evening charters. Children under 10 ride for free.
Dymov CeramicsART
(Дымов керамика
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-980-752 3555, 495-500 0173; www.dymovceramic.ru/en; Solnechnaya ul 7, Ivanovskoye; c)
Traditional crafts are particularly popular in the Suzdal area; this well-regarded ceramics studio in a Suzdal suburb offers you a chance to take home your own creation, with one-hour classes in pottery and tile-making for kids and adults. See the website for pricing and details. Pressed for time? You can buy a piece from Dymov's shop (Дымов керамика
MAP
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; %49231-21 190; www.dymovceramic.ru/en; Trading Arcades, Torgovaya pl; h10am-7pm).
4Sleeping
Suzdal is a popular destination for both domestic and international tourists, which means there are plenty of accommodation choices around town, from vast holiday resorts to quaint two- or three-room guesthouses. You can save some money if you avoid staying over at weekends and holidays.
Patchwork HostelHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-930-831 3958; www.vk.com/hostel_patchwork; ul Gogolya 59; dm incl breakfast R600-700; pW)
With just two dorm rooms (a six-bed mixed and a four-bed women-only), this new hostel is pocket-sized but spotless, and a short walk from the St Euthymius Monastery. Thoughtful touches include free tea and coffee in the common room and USB charging ports at each bed. The staff speak excellent English, too. Bikes are available for rent.
oPetrov DomGUESTHOUSE$$
(Петров дом
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; %8-919-025 6884; www.petrovdom.ru; per Engelsa 18; r from R2000; pW)
Vlad and Lena offer three nicely furnished rooms in their wooden dacha-style house with a lovely garden on a quiet side street. It's a great option for travellers with children. A sumptuous breakfast costs just R200; self-caterers can use the kitchen and garden grill. There's also a private banya (hot bath) built by Vlad himself, available for guest rental.
Note that per Engelsa is the street just south of ul Engelsa. There's no sign on the house; just look for the very large sun symbol on the front gates.
oSurikov Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(Гостевой дом Суриковых
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; %8-915-752 4950, 49231-21 568; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 53; d incl breakfast R2500; pW)
This 11-room boutique guesthouse is positioned at a particularly picturesque bend of the Kamenka River across from the walls of the St Euthymius Monastery. It has modestly sized but comfortable rooms equipped with rustic-style furniture (some made by the owner himself) and a Russian restaurant (for guests only) on the 1st floor. Visitors rave about this place.
Guesthouse Usadba SurikovaB&B$$
(Гостиница Усадьба Сурикова
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-920-910 7477; ul Lenina 35; r incl breakfast R2500; paW
#)
This little B&B a few minutes' walk south of the kremlin is neat as a pin and cute as a button. Attentive host Alexander provides a filling, homemade breakfast each morning (including delicious Russian pancakes). Comfortable, spacious rooms come with minifridges.
Pushkarskaya SlobodaRESORT$$$
(Пушкарская слобода
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-23 303; www.pushkarka.ru; ul Lenina 45; d from R4950; paW
s)
This attractive riverside holiday village has everything you might want for a Russian idyll, including accommodation options in traditionally styled log cabins (from R7900). It has three restaurants (including a rustic country tavern and a formal dining room) and a spa centre with pool. The staff can also arrange all sorts of tours and classes around Suzdal.
Nikolayevsky PosadRESORT$$$
(Николаевский посад
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-23 585; www.nposad.ru; ul Lenina 138; s/d from R4250/5500; paWs)
This large, manicured resort near the St Euthymius Monastery has comfortable, contemporary rooms and suites (as well as four- to eight-bed dorms, R1300) in two-storey buildings styled as old mansion houses. There's a nice restaurant and a ‘hangover’ cafe, plus a 25m pool, fitness centre, spa and children's play area. Bicycles are available for rent, too.
5Eating & Drinking
Most of the good eating options are along ul Lenina and in the Trading Arcades on Torgovaya pl. The larger hotels all have restaurants, too.
oChaynayaRUSSIAN$
(Чайная
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.tea-suzdal.ru; ul Kremlyovskaya 10g; mains R130-450; h10am-9pm)
It's hidden behind a kitsch crafts market, but this place is a gem. Russian standards – bliny, shchi (cabbage soup), mushroom dishes and pickles – are prominently represented, but it's all the unusual (and rather experimental) items on the menu that make Chaynaya so special. Red-buckwheat pancakes, anyone?
oGоstiny DvorRUSSIAN$$
(Гостиный дворъ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-021 190; www.suzdal-dvor.ru; Trading Arcades, Torgovaya pl; mains R450-550; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, 9am-11pm Fri-Sun; Wc)
There are so many things to like about this place: eclectic decor of rustic antiques and warm wood; outside terrace tables offering river views; hearty Russian dishes (chicken, pike, pelmeni dumplings) prepared with modern flair; and friendly, attentive service, to start. Finish up with a tasting set of house-made medovukha (honey ale) while the kids amuse themselves in the playroom.
Salmon & CoffeeINTERNATIONAL$$
(Лосось и кофе
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.losos-coffee.ru; Trading Arcades, Torgovaya pl; mains R340-590; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; W)
With its whitewashed wood interior and rustic-style decor, this rather quaint cafe on Torgovaya pl is one of the best places in town for an unhurried lunch or a cup of coffee. Despite the name, salmon is not really prominent on the menu, which includes inventive fusion European dishes and sushi.
KharchevnyaRUSSIAN$$
(Харчевня
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-20 722; ul Lenina 73; R320-450; h9am-11pm)
It's perhaps the most unassuming and unpretentious cafe in Suzdal, but it's also the best. The long menu covers all traditional Russian staples from shchi (cabbage soup) to bliny pancakes. Service is fast and friendly. The location is convenient for most attractions and hotels.
Kvasnaya IzbaRUSSIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-915-779 0577; www.kvasnaya-izba.ru; ul Pushkarskaya 51; meals R350-550; h10am-9pm; W)
This restaurant is slightly out of the way, but it's worth a bit of a walk if you'd like to sample all kinds of kvas – Russia's traditional drink made of fermented rye bread. Flavours on offer include apple, thyme and blackcurrant. You might just want some liquid refreshment, but the kvas goes equally well with the hearty Russian meals here.
Graf Suvorov & Mead-Tasting HallBEER HALL
(Граф Суворов и зал дегустаций
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-905-734 5404, 49231-20 803; Trading Arcades, Torgovaya pl; tasting menu R300-500; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun)
Sit beneath vaulted ceilings and contemplate kitsch murals of Russian military hero Count Suvorov’s exploits in the Alps as you make your way through a tasting set (10 samples) of the few dozen varieties of locally produced medovukha, a mildly alcoholic honey ale. Flavours also include berry and herb infusions. Located on the back (river) side of the Trading Arcades.
8Information
Sberbank (Сбербанк
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Lenina 73a; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Exchange office and ATM.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; Krasnaya pl 3; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (Автовокзал
GOOGLE MAP
; %49231-020 147; Vasilievskaya ul 44; h4.30am-8pm) is 2km east of the centre on Vasilievskaya ul. Some long-distance buses pass the central square on the way.
There is no bus service to Suzdal from Moscow; you'll need to take a train to Vladimir and then switch to a Suzdal-bound bus there. Buses run very regularly throughout the day to and from Vladimir (R95, 45 minutes).
For Plyos, take a bus to Ivanovo (R150, 1½ hours, hourly 8am to 7.30pm) and change there for service to Plyos (R173, two hours, 10 daily).
Plyos Плёс
%49339 / Pop 2196 / Time Moscow
One of the smallest Golden Ring destinations at just 3 sq km, Plyos is a tranquil town of old wooden houses and hilly streets winding down to the Volga, located halfway between Ivanovo and Kostroma. An early settlement here was destroyed by Mongols in 1238; Plyos was founded and fortified in 1410 by Prince Vasily I.
The town's historical renown stems from an artists' retreat in the late 19th century: Isaac Levitan, Russia’s most celebrated landscape artist, painted its serenity when he lived here. More recent infamy is thanks to Milovka, Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev's multibillion-rouble, 80-hectare country estate that anti-corruption activists say has a murky money trail. In 2016, politician and Putin opponent Alexey Navalny published a drone video that soars high above the property's 6m fence, showing the 19th-century manor buildings, guesthouses, staff hotel, private ski run, three helipads and a multi-tiered pool.
1Sights & Activities
The river embankment (Sovetskaya ul) is dotted with former mansions and other beautiful buildings that make for a lovely architecture walk, including the 1907 Novozhilova House – the only building in Plyos built in Style Moderne (Russia's take on art nouveau) – which once hosted visiting British royals Prince and Princess Michael of Kent, and the hillside, pistachio-green House of Seven Windows, with its front garden and wrought-iron fence.
Various sculptures are also placed alongside the river, including a cat, a picture frame overlooking the water and a woman in 19th-century dress.
Resurrection HillVIEWPOINT
(Воскресенская гора GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karla Marksa)
For a bird's-eye view over Plyos, head up the hill from Torgovaya pl to the wooden stairs on the right. Climb to the top (there's a handy resting bench halfway up) and follow the path to the right, where you'll see a war memorial. A few steps beyond that is the (unfenced!) edge of the bluff, where you can look down over the Church of the Resurrection, the Volga and the villages on the other side.
Levitan House MuseumMUSEUM
(Дом-музей Левитана
GOOGLE MAP
; %49339-43 478; www.ples-museum.ru; ul Lunacharskogo 4; adult/child R120/60; h10am-2pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun)
Art by famed Russian painter Isaac Levitan is displayed in the riverside house where he and painters Alexey Stepanov and Sofia Kuvshinnikova lived for three summers, from 1888 to 1890. Levitan produced some 200 works in Plyos, including some of his best. Various personal belongings, as well as paintings by Stepanov and Kuvshinnikova, are also on display. Outside across the street is a bust of the man himself.
Landscape MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей пейзажа
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-930-347 6771; www.ples-museum.ru; ul Lunacharskogo 20; adult/student R80/40; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun summer, to 5pm winter)
The Plyos landscape has inspired many painters to capture it; many such works from the mid-19th to early-20th centuries hang in this museum, housed in a former mansion at the far eastern end of the embankment. Nearby is a bronze sculpture of a 19th-century woman looking out at the world through the empty frame of an easel.
Church of St BarbaraCHURCH
(Церковь Святой Варвары GOOGLE MAP ; Varvarinskaya ul)
On a hillside with a commanding view of the Volga is this working church built in 1821 and restored to its former glory in the 1980s. Painter Isaac Levitan portrayed it in his masterwork Evening: Golden Plyos (1889), which hangs in the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow.
Torgovaya PloschadSQUARE
(Торговая площадь GOOGLE MAP )
The oldest part of town is along the river, as evidenced by the ramparts of the old fort, which dates from 1410. Central Torgovaya pl (Market Sq) has long been the town's mercantile heart, with rows of trading stalls for commercial activity coming along the Volga (although these days they're much quieter). One of the town’s oldest streets, tiny ul Kalashnaya (
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Kalashnaya; h10am-7pm), has been converted into two rows of stalls selling the usual souvenirs (matryoshki nesting dolls, woodcarvings, magnets etc).
Rising high above the square is the gorgeously refurbished Church of the Resurrection (Воскресенская Церковь
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Lenina 2; h9am-6pm). Walk south up Proyezdnoy per (away from the river) and follow the road around to the left for about 550m to get to the tent-roofed Assumption Cathedral (Успенский собор; 1699), one of artist Isaac Levitan’s favourite painting subjects.
Boat RidesCRUISE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-910-995 3208; Sovetskaya ul 43; adult/child R300/150, child under 7 free; h11am-5pm)
Cruises up and down the Volga, lasting approximately 45 to 50 minutes, can be taken from the 'Dana' berth on the embankment. The boat leaves every hour on the hour from 11am to 5pm. Commentary is in Russian.
4Sleeping
Since Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev made Plyos his favourite holiday spot, VIP holiday homes have sprung up around the tiny town – and greatly inflated the prices for other accommodation. Less expensive homestay options are available; check www.plyos.info for more information.
oVolga-VolgaGUESTHOUSE$$$
(Волга-Волга
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-910-999 8822; www.volga-ples.ru; ul Spusk Gory Svobody 12b; s/d incl breakfast from R4000/4500; pW)
A large wooden building resembling a traditional Russian gingerbread cottage and perched on the slope of a deep ravine leading to the Volga, with individually themed rooms and a relaxed dacha (summer country house) atmosphere. Relax with a cup of tea by the beautifully tiled fireplace in the lounge. There's a banya (sauna-like hot bath), too.
Chastny VisitGUESTHOUSE$$$
(Частный визит
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-920-343 2998, 8-901-191 9819; www.pless.ru; ul Gornaya Sloboda 7; d/ste from R9000/12,000; paW#)
Occupying a prime spot on the edge of a spectacular Volga-facing bluff, this sweet wooden cottage with country-style rooms filled with antiques – some with fantastic views – is run by a French–Russian couple. Prices, however, may damage your idyll. Breakfast is included and dinner is available at the (rather expensive) restaurant on the premises.
5Eating & Drinking
Cast Iron Pot RestaurantRUSSIAN$$
(Ресторан Чугунок
GOOGLE MAP
; %493-293 9812; Sovetskaya ul 35; mains R250-450; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, to 11pm Sun)
Meat is on the menu at this little place in a red-brick house with large wooden shutters on the embankment – the restaurant specialises in steaks and grilled skewers (especially of lamb or veal). The friendly waiters are dressed in faux-traditional shirts, which lends the cafe's set-up some atmosphere. Save room for the apple strudel.
DachnikRUSSIAN$$
(Дачник
GOOGLE MAP
; %49339-432 07; Sovetskaya ul 39; mains R200-390; h10am-10pm)
A small place in a prime spot on the embankment that serves well-cooked traditional Russian food. The menu isn't large but it has some interesting choices, including local smoked bream and Uzbek pilaf with beef, as well as a few salads. For riverside dining, ask for seats in the restaurant's veranda across the road.
oPlyos Beer HouseBREWERY
(Плёсский Пивной Дом
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-920-673 1265; ul Yuryevskaya 4; h11am-11pm; W)
Marvel at the giant tree in the middle of the upstairs bar and snag the corner table for views of the Church of the Resurrection and the Volga – especially compelling at sunset. The brewery offers its own beers on tap, along with tasting flights of regional berry or herbal vodka 'infusions'. The menu features local game such as elk steak.
8Information
There's a freestanding ATM (
GOOGLE MAP
; Sovetskaya ul; h24hr) kiosk on Sovetskaya ul, just down from the main square.
www.ples.ru Official city web portal.
www.plios.ru Has information on many of the town's classic buildings, as well as a self-guided walking tour.
8Getting There & Away
Plyos is a 20km detour northeast from Privolzhsk on the main Golden Ring route; its remoteness and hilly topography make it best visited with your own wheels.
The bus stop (автостанция
GOOGLE MAP
; %info 49339-43 350; ul Gornaya Sloboda 33) is at the top of the hill heading into town. Travelling to/from Suzdal, change to a Plyos-bound bus at Ivanovo (R173, two hours, 10 daily). Heading from Plyos to Kostroma, take a taxi or catch the returning Ivanovo bus to Privolzhsk (30 minutes), where you can hop on one of the hourly transit buses plying the route between Ivanovo and Kostroma.
Kostroma Кострома
%4942 / Population 268,742 / Time Moscow
The Volga flows lazily past the 18th-century neoclassical architecture of this modest-sized city, the northernmost on the Golden Ring circuit and one that played a crucial role in the advent of the Romanov dynasty that ruled Russia for over 300 years. Founded by Yury Dolgoruky in 1152, Kostroma developed as an important regional market town thanks to its location on the river; its former commercial glory is evidenced by the enormous Trading Arcades on Susaninskaya pl, the equally huge main square.
Its major sight, the Monastery of St Ipaty, is across the Kostroma River to the west. A number of museums can be found in the area around Susaninskaya pl, the parks south of which are perfect for a riverside ramble. If you have an extra day, take a trip out to the countryside to see one of Russia's few elk farms.
Kostroma
1Sights
5Eating
8Information
Transport
1Sights
Monastery of St IpatyMONASTERY
(Ипатьевский монастырь
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-312 589; www.ipatievsky-monastery.ru; Russian/foreigner R50/150, photography R100; h9am-5.30pm)
Named after St Ipaty (Hypatios) of Gangara, this monastery at the confluence of the Volga and Kostroma Rivers was founded in the 1330s by Chet, a Tatar prince who converted to Christianity. In 1590 his descendant, Tsar Boris Godunov, built its Trinity Cathedral (Троицкий собор), which contains more than 80 old frescoes by a school of 17th-century Kostroma painters, as well as some 20th-century additions. (The fresco in the southern part of the sanctuary depicts Chet’s baptism by St Ipaty.)
In 1613 the 17-year-old Mikhail Romanov, who had spent over a decade in exile as a political rival to the Godunovs, was living in the monastery when he was informed that he had been chosen to be Russia's next tsar. All successive Romanov tsars thus came here to visit the monastery’s red-painted Romanov Chambers (Палаты бояр Романовых), located opposite the cathedral, which today contain a rather dull historic exhibition.
Much more interesting is the Refectory (Трапезная), which displays church treasures and old icons over two floors, as well as film footage of the last of the Romanovs, Tsar Nicholas II and his family, visiting Kostroma in 1913 for the big 300-year jubilee of their house. (The 400-year jubilee in 2013 turned out to be a fairly low-key event.) In a bizarre coincidence, the Romanov dynasty began in the Monastery of St Ipaty and met its end at Ipatyev House, the residence in Yekaterinburg where the family was executed in 1918.
The monastery is 2.5km west of the town centre. Take bus 14 from Susaninskaya pl and get off at the first stop across the river; it's a 650m walk southeast from there.
Museum of Wooden ArchitectureMUSEUM
(Музей деревянного зодчества
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-373 872; www.kostrsloboda.ru; ul Prosveshcheniya 1b; adult/child R150/free; h10am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr)
Essentially a large riverside park, this open-air museum comprises a large collection of old, rural wooden buildings moved here for preservation, including peasant families' houses, cleverly engineered windmills and churches – many built without nails. Some buildings display various artefacts of rural life, and the grounds (which are open an hour later than the exhibits) are pleasant for strolling, listening to the chirping of resident frogs and admiring the handiwork of the artists.
GuardhouseHISTORIC BUILDING, MUSEUM
(Гауптвахта
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.kostromamuseum.ru/gauptvahta; ul Lenina 1/2; joint ticket adult/child R250/free; h11am-7pm)
Constructed in 1826, this small guardhouse was originally a brig to hold arrested soldiers until trial. During the Soviet era it was used as offices for various institutions, including a library and a registry office. Today it belongs to the Kostroma Museum Reserve and houses three separate exhibits on military history, with displays of weapons and uniforms (from both Russia and other countries) from the medieval era to modern times.
Susaninskaya PloshchadSQUARE
(Сусанинская площадь MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Picturesque Susaninskaya pl was built under Catherine the Great’s patronage after a fire in 1773 (based on, as legend says, the shape of her fan) and nicely revamped for the Romanov dynasty's 400-year anniversary in 2013. Its immense Italianate Trading Arcades used to house hundreds of shops selling goods shipped along the Volga in its heyday, some of which are still represented in its street names (flour, tobacco, fish, spices and milk). Today it houses Kostroma's central market (Центральный рынок
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Trading Arcades, ul Muchnye Ryady 1; h7am-7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter).
The Ivan Susanin Monument (Памятник Ивану Сусанину), standing in a small park between the arcades, celebrates a local hero who guided Polish soldiers hunting for Mikhail Romanov into a swamp – and to their deaths. (Ivan didn't survive, either.) His deed was lionized by Mikhail Glinka in the opera A Life for the Tsar.
The opposite side of the square features a manicured park with radiating paths and is graced by an imposing neoclassical Fire Tower (Пожарная каланча), built in 1827, and a former Guardhouse.
2Activities
Azimut Hotel BathhouseBATHHOUSE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-800-200 0048, 4942-390 505; ul Magistralnaya 40; 2hr bath rental for up to 6 people R2500; h5pm-3am)
Right by the turn towards the centre on the main Yaroslavl road, this hotel is famous for its banya complex, which offers a dozen treatments (at extra cost), from traditional to slightly left field. Most involve quick shifts between boiling-hot and ice-cold tubs, and an attendant pummelling you with veniki (birch-tree twigs) – which feels way better than it might sound.
WORTH A TRIP
SUMAROKOVSKAYA ELK FARM
One of the many bold experiments undertaken in the Soviet era was an attempt to domesticate European elk (Alces alces; known as 'moose' in North America) for meat or dairy farming. Elk milk has much more protein and fat than cows’ milk and is considered good for ulcers.
To this end, the Sumarokovskaya Elk Farm was created in 1963 about 25km from Kostroma. Commercial elk farming never took off for a multitude of practical reasons, however; these days focus has shifted to breeding animals for areas where this iconic taiga (forest) creature is becoming extinct. The farm also regularly supplies milk to a local sanatorium, which uses it in medical treatment for gastrointestinal diseases.
The best time to visit is summer. In May you can see the newly born calves; in September they're released from their quarantine enclosures. Juvenile and adult elk wander contentedly in their summer paddocks; your tour guide will give you carrots to feed to the animals. The little shop has elk milk available to taste (R60) or purchase (R1200 per litre) from May to September – and, of course, a variety of elk-themed souvenirs year-round. (It's best to visit earlier in the day if you can.)
The farm makes for a pleasant half-day countryside trip if you have a car. From the centre of Kostroma, drive southeast along ul Sovetskaya, which becomes Kineshemskoye sh; continue past the bus station to Poddubnoye. Turn left at the sign for Ikonnikovo and continue just past the small hamlet of Gridino, where you’ll see a signposted right turn onto an unsealed road (it's safe for cars); follow that 6km to the farm.
A return taxi from Kostroma with a one-hour wait will cost around R800. Public transport is tougher: take a Gushchino- or Sintsovo-bound bus (20 minutes, six daily) to the Spas stop in Gridino. From there, walk down the unsealed road for 6km.
In winter the whole elk population moves to temporary enclosures in nearby locations, so be sure to enquire with the farm before heading out there. Heavy snow often renders the access road impassable.
4Sleeping
Whichever hotel you are staying at, if you're coming into town by bus, ask the driver to let you off at Oktyabrskaya pl once you cross the Volga – this will save you a big trek back into town from the bus station.
Hostel AcademyHOSTEL$
(Хостел Академия
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-496 165; www.achostel.com; ul Lesnaya 11a; dm incl breakfast R450-600; W)
Equipped with dorms sleeping four, six and eight, as well as twin and double rooms (R1400 to R1500), this friendly hostel occupies the 1st floor of a building on the Volga embankment; the large common room has a shared kitchen and a TV with game console. A washing machine is available for guest use.
Ya-HotelHOTEL$$
(Я-Отель
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-910-955 5003, 4942-555 000; ya-hotel@mail.ru; ul Simanovskogo 5b; s/d incl breakfast R2600/3200; paW)
This very modern multi-floor hotel is one of Kostroma's newest, and the location down the street from Susaninskaya pl can't be beaten. There's 24-hour reception and an elevator to access upper floors. 'Comfort' double rooms (R3500) come with a kitchenette with microwave and mini-fridge. The entrance is on ul Pyatnitskaya.
oSkvorechnikB&B$$$
(Скоречник
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-222 122, 8-920-390 7077; www.artskvorechnik.ru; ul Chaykovskogo 17b; d/f incl breakfast from R3500/4000; W#)
At this 'Birdhouse' you may not want to leave the nest. Six artfully designed rooms are fitted with natural materials (wood, cotton, Kostroma linen), soothing pastels and tasteful quirks – we loved the hanging bouquet of lights over the platform bed in room 1. Breakfast is served in a family-friendly lounge with arty activities for the kids; babysitting services also available.
Old StreetHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-496 999; www.oldstreethotel.ru; ul Sovetskaya 10; s/d incl breakfast from R3700/4200; paW)
A heritage house on the main street has been transformed into a plush little hotel that gets rave reviews from guests. We counted seven pillows topping king-sized beds in tastefully designed modern rooms, which offer work desks, soft bathrobes and bathrooms with large tubs and heated floors. 'Comfort' rooms and suites (from R8500) also feature bidets and terraces.
Yablonevy SadRENTAL HOUSE$$$
(Apple Orchard; Яблоневый сад
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-953-656 7513; ul Osoviakhima 6a; R7500; pW#)
This stylishly designed, boutique izba (log house), which sleeps six to eight, is built around a tiled hearth and set in a garden. Three en-suite bedrooms with large beds and many tiny, artful details will make you feel like you've found a fairy-tale forest refuge. A sumptuous Russian breakfast (think porridge and thick pancakes with apples) is included.
5Eating
To stock up on fresh garden produce and Caucasian lavash (flat bread), head to the food stalls inside the central market.
IzbushkaINTERNATIONAL$
(Избушка
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-222 221; pl Sovetskaya 4; mains R200-350; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; c)
Head upstairs to sink into a comfy chair at this airy, modern cafe with a chilled-out vibe. Options include Italian dishes, salads, Russian vareniki (boiled dumplings) and mains such as braised rabbit and fried perch. The cafe also serves beer, wine and cocktails, so you can linger awhile after dessert while the kids amuse themselves in the play area.
Pita Grill Street FoodLEBANESE, BURGERS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Muchnye Ryady 1; mains R90-150; h9am-10pm)
This new casual fast-food joint in the centre of town cooks up fresh shawarma (grilled meat and salad wrapped in flat bread), burgers and fries. Save room for a milkshake for dessert.
Horns & HoofsEUROPEAN$
(Рога и копыта
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.rogaikopita44.org; ul Sovetskaya 2; mains R250-385; h8.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)
This frivolously decorated restaurant is inspired by the beloved Russian satire The Twelve Chairs (1928), in which a deathbed confession inspires a wild search across the country for hidden treasure. Wrought-iron furniture, B&W photos and waiters dressed as old-world chauffeurs set the atmosphere. There's a good selection of soups, salads and main dishes, as well as pastries and coffee drinks.
HundertwasserCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.restwow.ru; 2nd fl, Oktyabrskaya pl 3; mains R220-300; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 10am-1am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun; Wc)
Resembling a kaleidoscope, this large cafe evokes colour schemes and curving shapes favoured by Viennese vanguard architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. Local youngsters come here to chat over a cup of coffee or a water pipe, or indulge in some all-day breakfast, fresh juices or smoothies. There's a kids' menu, too.
Honey, I'll Be LateGASTROPUB, STEAK$$
(Дорогая, буду поздно
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.budupozdno.ru; ul Nizhnyaya Debrya 2/15, cnr ul Chaykovskogo; steaks R300-620; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat)
With a burger called 'Tear Your Face', you know this is a place that takes meat seriously: the speciality is grilled steaks in a variety of cuts. Wash it down with craft beer (choose from dozens) or one of the signature cocktails. After one or two 'Long Islands a la Russe' you'll fully understand how this place got its name.
Not into steak? The restaurant also offers salads, soups, pastas and quesadillas (with a dairy-free vegan-cheese option). Head to the back to get a window booth overlooking the park. Water pipes are available, too.
SlavianskyRUSSIAN$$
(Cлавянский
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-315 460; ul Molochnaya Gora 1; meals R250-700; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
With festive traditional decor, this popular restaurant is a great place for locally produced beer and various vodka-based liquors, with flavours ranging from cranberry to horseradish. Sumptuous meat dishes are broadly based on traditional Russian recipes, but service can be very slow. Bookings recommended.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Traveler's CoffeeCOFFEE, CAFE
(Трэвэлерс Кофе
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-953-642 8203; www.travelers-coffee.com; ul Sovetskaya 17; h8am-midnight; W)
A corporate coffee joint in the Starbucks mold, Traveler's offers cappuccinos and lattes for bleary-eyed souls in search of an espresso redemption (as well as breakfast dishes, salads, sandwiches and pastas). Soy milk is available. Also has branches in Yaroslavl.
Kamelot Cafe BarBAR
(Камелот кафе бар
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pl Sovetskaya 4; h11am-4am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat)
The swords and medieval sconces at this booth-filled bar-lounge are perhaps a bit over the top, but if you want to keep the party going late, it's open all night on weekends (and after a few drinks who cares about the decor anyway?). The bar also offers nargilas (water pipes) and a full food menu.
Dudki BarBAR
(Дудки бар
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-300 003; www.dudkibar.ru; pr Mira 18; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W)
Local hipsters love this self-ironic bar, perhaps for the snug, oversized upholstered booths that make you feel like you've got your own little private corner of the universe. The bar has a full menu of mainly European and Asian dishes (mains R300 to R350). There's another branch in Yaroslavl.
7Shopping
oArt PolkaARTS & CRAFTS
(Апт Полка
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Chayavskogo 9; hnoon-8pm)
'Polka' means 'shelf' in Russian, and every shelf here contains handmade wares from a different local artist – it's like a miniature craft fair. You'll find everything from lucite-encased flower jewellery and woodcut badges to soaps and beard conditioner. There are chocolate truffles and iced gingerbread cookies, too. A great place to find presents for your friends back home.
8Information
You'll find 24-hour ATMs dotted along major thoroughfares such as pr Mira and ul Sovetskaya.
Sberbank (Сбербанк
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Sovetskaya 6; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, ATM 24hr) Next to the post office on ul Sovetskaya.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Sovetskaya 79/73; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) On Oktyabrskaya pl.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Sovetskaya 6; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) On ul Sovetskaya.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The bus station (Автовокзал Кострома GOOGLE MAP ; Kineshemskoye sh) is 4.4km east of Susaninskaya pl on Kineshemskoye sh, the continuation of ul Sovetskaya. There are hourly services to Yaroslavl (R287, 1½ hours, hourly) and Ivanovo (R300 to R360, 2½ hours, hourly), which is where you'll need to transfer for Suzdal (R150, 1½ hours, five daily) and Nizhny Novgorod (R640, five hours, eight daily).
Heading to Plyos, take one of the hourly Ivanovo buses and change at Privolzhsk (R150 to R185, 1¼ hours). There are also direct services to Moscow (R1050, 6½ hours, seven daily).
Train
The train station, Kostroma Novaya (Кострома-Новая GOOGLE MAP ; pl Shirokova 2), is 3.5km east of Susaninskaya pl. There are three daily suburban trains to/from Yaroslavl (R303, 2½ hours) and two long-distance trains to/from Yaroslavsky vokzal in Moscow (R1250 to R2350, 6½ hours), although these leave either very late or very early.
8Getting Around
Buses 1, 2, 9, 14, 81 and 101 run between the bus station and Susaninskaya pl, along the full length of ul Sovetskaya. Trolleybus 2 runs between the train station and Susaninskaya pl. Each line costs R17 to ride.
You can also rent bicycles by the hour, day or week at Bicycles for Rent (Прокат велосипедов
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4942-301 552; www.vk.com/velovprokat; ul Gornaya 3; hire per hr/day/week R150/700/3000; h1-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun).
Taxi Maxim (%4942-666 666)