Yaroslavl Ярославль

%4852 / Population 595,200 / Time Moscow

Yaroslavl is the largest and oldest (founded 1010) city on the Golden Ring, a fact underscored by its place of honour on the Russian 1000-rouble note (including the 15-domed church of John the Baptist on the back). Embraced by two rivers, the mighty Volga and the smaller Kotorosl, Yaroslavl’s centre is dotted with onion domes like no other place in Russia. This religious zeal dates back to the times of Kyivan Rus, when the town was founded by Prince Yaroslav to guard his realm’s northeastern flank.

Most of the churches and houses gracing the quaint, Unesco-listed historic city centre, however, were built by rich merchants in the 17th to 19th centuries, competing to out do one other in beautifying their city. Thankfully, much of that beauty has remained unscathed by Soviet development.

Yaroslavl

1Top Sights

1Monastery of the Transfiguration of the SaviourB4

2Music & TimeC1

1Sights

3Annunciation CathedralD4

4Bell TowerB4

5Cathedral of the TransfigurationB4

6Church of Elijah the ProphetC2

7History of Yaroslavl MuseumD2

8Ploshchad VolkovaA3

9Treasures of Yaroslavl ExhibitionB4

10Yaroslavl Art Museum (Governor's House)C2

11Yaroslavl Art Museum (Metropolitan Palace)D3

4Sleeping

12City HostelA1

13Ioann VasilyevichB4

14Kuptsov DomB2

5Eating

15Buffet No 1B3

Ioann VasilyevichB4

16PodbelkaA4

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Anti-Cafe Samoye VremyaA2

18Dudki BarA3

19KrapivaB3

20Organic CoffeeA3

8Information

21PharmacyB3

22VTB24 BankA3

1Sights

You’ll find most sights either very close to or right on the city’s main attraction: the promenade that runs along the Volga and Kotorosl Rivers.

oMonastery of the Transfiguration of the SaviourMONASTERY

(Спасо-Преображенский монастырь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-303 869; www.yarmp.yar.ru; Bogoyavlenskaya pl 25; joint ticket adult/child R700/300; hgrounds 8am-8pm May-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Apr, exhibits 10am-5.45pm)

Founded in the 12th century, the Unesco-listed Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour was one of Russia’s richest and best-fortified monasteries by the 16th century. The oldest surviving structures, dating from 1516, are the Holy Gate (святые ворота) near the main entrance by the river and the Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Спасо-Преображенский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R80/40; h10am-6pm Thu-Mon, closed rainy days). A bird's-eye view of Yaroslavl and its rivers can be had by climbing up to the top of the cathedral's bell tower (Звонница MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child Mon-Fri R200/100, Sat & Sun R250/130; h8.30am-7.30pm).

Other buildings house exhibitions on history, ethnography, icons and the Treasures of Yaroslavl Exhibition (Сокровища Ярославля MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child from R200/80; h10am-5.45pm, closed Tue), featuring works of gold, silver and precious gems dating back to the 17th century.

If you don't want to buy the joint ticket you can also pay for individual exhibits, which cost R70 to R250 for adults (R35 to R100 for kids). To visit the grounds only is R40 for adults (free for kids). Note that ticket sales cease 30 minutes before closing time.

oMusic & TimeMUSEUM

(Музыка и время MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-328 637; Volzhskaya nab 33a; adult/child R250/150; h10am-7pm)

Every object has a voice in this little house containing the late magician John Mostoslavsky’s impressive collection of clocks, musical instruments (harmoniums, a loud hurdy-gurdy), bells and gramophones – one of the most eclectic museum experiences in the Golden Ring. Guides (some of whom speak English) turn each tour into a concert by playing many of these items, which have been preserved in working condition. Downstairs is a huge collection of hot irons from centuries past and other antique artefacts.

Yaroslavl Art Museum (Governor's House)MUSEUM

(Ярославский художественный музей (Губернаторский дом) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-303 504; www.artmuseum.yar.ru; Volzhskaya nab 23; joint ticket adult/child R200/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun, noon-8pm Fri)

The main branch of the city's art museum, housed in the restored former governors' mansion (built 1823), showcases two permanent exhibits on 18th- to 20th-century Russian art (individual or joint ticket available), with a large hall dedicated to Impressionist Konstantin Korovin; audio guides (R50) are available in English. Temporary exhibits – recent ones included art of the post-revolutionary 20th century – have their own admission prices.

Church of Elijah the ProphetCHURCH

(Церковь Ильи Пророка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-304 072; www.yarmp.yar.ru; Sovetskaya pl 7; adult/child R100/50; h8.30am-7pm May-Oct, by appointment Oct-Apr, closed rainy days)

The exquisite church that dominates Sovetskaya pl was built by some prominent local fur dealers in 1650. It has some of the Golden Ring’s brightest frescoes, done by the ubiquitous painter Gury Nikitin of Kostroma and his school, and detailed exterior tiles. The church is closed on rainy days to protect the frescoes from moisture.

John the Baptist Church at TolchkovoCHURCH

(Церковь Иоанна Крестителя в Толчково GOOGLE MAP ; www.yarmp.yar.ru; 2-ya Zakotoroslnaya nab 69; adult/child R80/40; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun May-Oct, closed rainy days)

It’s a shame that dingy industrial surroundings discourage most people from visiting Yaroslavl’s largest and most unique church – you may recognise it from the 1000-rouble currency note. Protected by Unesco, the red-brick structure (built 1671–87) boasts a staggering 15 green-coloured cupolas and some of the most extensive series of frescoes in the Orthodox world. It's located on the southern bank of the Kotorosl, by the second bridge.

The church is a 3km (10-minute) car or taxi ride from the centre. By public transport from Bogoyavlenskaya pl, take a southbound marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) 87 or bus 19k for four stops, disembarking at the ul Karabulina stop. Walk back towards the bridge and turn left at the corner; walk north towards the river and then west to the church (about 500m).

Note that the church is closed on rainy days to protect the frescoes from moisture.

Yaroslavl Art Museum (Metropolitan Palace)GALLERY

(Ярославский художественный музей (Митрополичьи палаты) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.artmuseum.yar.ru; Volzhskaya nab 1; adult/family/child R110/180/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

The 17th-century former chambers of the metropolitan showcase icons and other religious art from the 13th to 18th centuries. Temporary exhibits have separate admission prices; a recent one featured women's fashion from 1890 to 1910.

History of Yaroslavl MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Истории Ярославля MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-304 175; http://mukmig.yaroslavl.ru; Volzhskaya nab 17; joint ticket adult/child R130/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

This museum is in a lovely house built in 1894 by a local merchant. The main exhibit recounts the history of Yaroslavl through many artefacts from the past 10 centuries; other rooms hold temporary exhibits, such as on the history of medicine in the city. A monument to victims of war and repression in the 20th century sits in the peaceful courtyard garden.

If you don't want to buy the joint ticket you can also pay R80 each for individual exhibits (free for kids).

Annunciation CathedralCHURCH

(Успенский кафедральный собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-725 781; http://yar-uspenie.cerkov.ru; Kotoroslnaya nab 2/1; h8am-7.30pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)F

The city’s main cathedral originally dated from 1215, but was blown up by the Bolsheviks in 1937. What you see now is a modern replica erected for Yaroslav’s millennium celebrations in 2010. In front of it, a stone-slab monument marks the spot where Prince Yaroslav founded the city in 1010.

Past the cathedral, the new Strelka Park stretches right onto the tip of land between the Volga and the Kotorosl Rivers, where the Yaroslavl Millennium Monument was opened in 2010.

Ploshchad VolkovaSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The massive gate-shaped Vlasyevskaya Watchtower (1659) combined with the Church of the Sign loom over this square named after Fyodor Volkov, who founded Russia’s first professional theatre in 1750 in a Yaroslavl leather store. The beautiful neoclassical Volkov Theatre (1911) anchoring the north side of the square remains home to one of Russia’s most renowned theatrical troupes.

CALL SIGN 'SEAGULL': THE FIRST WOMAN IN SPACE

Everyone has heard of Yury Gagarin, the first man in space, but Russia also had the first woman cosmonaut: Valentina Tereshkova (b 1937), a Yaroslavl native and the first woman to orbit Earth. Raised in a village 30km from the city, and a textile worker at a local factory, in her early 20s she began training at a nearby amateur skydiving club. After Gagarin’s successful 1961 flight, the chief of the Soviet space programme decided to send up a woman, too; due to her parachuting expertise Tereshkova was one of the five successful applicants (out of over 400) admitted to the women’s cosmonaut corps.

After months of intense aeronautical training, including 120 parachute jumps, Tereshkova was selected to pilot the Vostok 6 flight, the final mission of the programme that had begun with Gagarin and Vostok 1. On 16 June 1963, the 26-year-old Tereshkova – call sign 'Chaika' (Seagull) – was sealed inside the small capsule and launched into orbit. All seemed to be going well until Tereshkova discovered a critical error in the capsule’s flight program, which would have made the Vostok 6 unable to descend to Earth – instead, it would have eventually spun off into outer space forever. Fortunately, ground control was able to figure out and radio up a fix, and Tereshkova successfully returned to Earth – parachuting almost 7km to the ground and landing 230km southeast of Novosibirsk (a statue of a soaring, helmet-less Tereshkova marks the spot). She had spent almost three days in space, circling the planet 48 times; her photographs of the horizon would later help scientists identify layers of aerosol in the atmosphere.

After her flight, Tereshkova received countless international honours, including the Hero of the Soviet Union medal, the USSR’s highest award. She went on to a long and prestigious political career (also earning a doctorate in engineering along the way) and today still serves as an elected official in the Duma, the lower house of the Russian legislature. A large plaque honouring Tereshkova can be seen just off Yaroslavl's pl Volkova, on the wall of ul Svobody 9.

2Activities

River StationCRUISE

(Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-228 144; www.yarport.com; Volzhskaya nab 4)

Summer services from the city’s riverine gateway include a range of slow boats to local destinations. The best trip is to Tolga (R28, one hour, five daily), where you’ll find a convent with lovely buildings from the 17th century.

4Sleeping

City HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-973 5263, 4852-727 782; www.yarcityhostel.ru; 2nd fl, ul Nekrasova 1/2; dm/f from R600/1600; aW)

Modern and stylish – light-coloured wood abounds – this hostel is in brand-new digs in a quiet but central location. Accommodation is in bunk or twin beds in one of several en-suite rooms; a family room has a double bed and a bunk bed. There's a bright common kitchen with a free washing machine for guest use. No breakfast included.

oKuptsov DomBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Купцовъ дом MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-207 788; www.kdhotel.ru; ul Trefoleva 21; s/d incl breakfast R3250/3850; paW)

A central location just off Volkov pl and elegantly decorated rooms with white furniture and light floral wallpaper make this new hotel in a historic building hard to beat for value. Helpful reception staff speak English, and a generous buffet breakfast is included. You can save some money by opting for one of the slightly cheaper attic rooms.

oIoann VasilyevichBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Иоанн Васильевич MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-670 760; www.ivyar.ru; Revolyutsionnaya ul 34; s/d R2300/3600; aW)

If you don’t mind a Soviet spy or a medieval tsar staring at you from the wall when you wake, here's your chance to immerse yourself in Russian cinema. Each of the 27 comfortable rooms is themed around a different Russian film, with colour schemes, furniture and fixtures selected accordingly. There's a great restaurant on-site, too.

Hotel ModernHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-207 777; www.hotelmodern.ru; ul Pushkina 5; s/d incl breakfast R3200/3900; aW#)

With a central location in a heritage-listed building on a quiet street, and 14 modern and comfortable (even if somewhat bland) rooms, Hotel Modern offers great value and is an easy walking distance to the main commercial strips. Reception staff are warm and helpful and speak some English.

5Eating

If you're on a budget, try the top-floor food court at the Aura shopping centre (Аура GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pobedy 41; h10am-10pm; W).

oBuffet No 1BUFFET$

(Буфет № 1 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-646 401; ul Nakhimsona 23/55; mains R100-250; h8am-11pm; W)

With an art nouveau exterior and an upscale dining room, this self-serve buffet – which offers a large and inexpensive selection of tasty salads, omelettes, meat mains with side dishes, Italian pastas, Asian noodle dishes, and desserts – is a great place for a cheap meal in pleasant surrounds. Its location near most of the main sights is perfect, too.

PodbelkaRUSSIAN$

(Подбелка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-593 053; Bolshaya Oktyabrskaya ul 28; mains R120-350; h24hr)

'Podbelka' is how Yaroslavl's first Soviet pelmennaya (dumpling cafeteria), which occupied these premises in the 1920s, was colloquially known to the townsfolk. In its post-historical reincarnation it's a hip, all-night eatery serving traditional pelmeni and vareniki (Russian dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables), along with many of their foreign cousins, such as Georgian khinkali.

Meat MeMIDDLE EASTERN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 3rd fl, Aura, ul Pobedy 41; mains R140-290; h10am-10pm; W)

Meataholics can gorge on excellent pork or chicken kebabs on skewers, or doner kebabs wrapped in fresh lavash (flat bread) at this kiosk in the food court of the Aura shopping centre. There's also falafel, hummus, hot dogs and – oddly enough – Canadian poutine (chips topped with cheese curds and gravy).

Ioann VasilyevichRUSSIAN$$

(Иоанн Васильевич MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-902-331 4707; www.ivyar.ru; Revolyutsionnaya ul 34; mains R340-580; h24hr; W)

A large menu of tasty, artfully presented Russian favourites – such as Olivier salad, 'Herring in a Fur Coat', pelmeni dumplings, local perch and rabbit kidneys – features at this restaurant, which is decorated as if you're having dinner with its eponymous 16th-century tsar (aka Ivan the Terrible). A visit to the inventively designed toilets downstairs will give you a lift, too.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oKrapivaCRAFT BEER

(Крапива MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kirova 10; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat)

With more than 150 craft beers to choose from – 40 rotating on the taps and dozens more in bottles – whether you're a beer snob or a beer slob this Moscow import has something to your taste. Nondrinkers can choose from numerous artisanal soft drinks. Light wood, red brick and metal-drum bar tables give off a comfy sort of rustic-industrial vibe.

Dudki BarPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-330 933; www.dudkibar.ru; ul Sobinova 33; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; W)

One of the most happening places in town, this bar-restaurant really gets going on weekends. Brass instruments and pictures of dogs portrayed as aristocratic ancestors adorn the walls, with a large bar on the 2nd floor and a more intimate one downstairs. European and Asian dishes feature on the menu. There's another branch in Kostroma.

Organic CoffeeCOFFEE, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-731 947; 2nd fl, ul Kirova 13/31; h8am-midnight; W)

This sizeable all-day cafe serves all manner of espresso-based coffees, iced or hot, as well as desserts and light meals (salads, pastas etc). The cafe also offers soy milk. There are two other branches around town, as well.

Anti-Cafe Samoye VremyaCAFE

(Самое время MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4852-286 644; www.samoevremya76.ru; 2nd fl, ul Trefoleva 22; per min R2; h10am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Part of a nationwide trend, this 'anti-cafe' charges for the time you spend on the premises and provides coffee and great homemade cookies for free. You can lounge on a couch surfing the internet, play Xbox on a large screen in a dedicated room or make friends with young Russians who come along to play table games and chat.

8Information

VTB24 Bank (ВТБ24 банк MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Komsomolskaya ul 6; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, ATM 24hr) Has a currency exchange desk.

Pharmacy (Аптека MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pervomayskaya 47; h24hr)

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Komsomolskaya ul 22; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

The bus station (Ярославский автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; www.yarbust.ru; Moskovsky pr 80a) is 3.3km south of the Kotorosl River. There are seven daily services to/from Moscow (R700, 4½ hours). Between those and the regional lines, you can also get to Rostov-Veliky (R130 to R250, one hour, frequent), Pereslavl-Zalessky (R310 to R400, two hours, 11 daily) and Sergiev Posad (R450 to R550, three hours, six daily).

Buses go to Kostroma (R287, two hours, nine daily) and Uglich (R293, three hours, 13 daily). There are also two buses daily for Suzdal (R517 to R592, 4½ hours, 9.35am and 4.20pm).

Some buses bound for Moscow and Uglich either depart from or stop at the main train station on the way.

Train

The main train station is Yaroslavl Glavny (Ярославль-Главный GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svobody), about 3km west of the centre. There are 14 daily trains from Moscow's Yaroslavsky station bound for northern Russia and Siberia that stop at Yaroslavl (R545 to R886, four hours), with most calling at Rostov-Veliky or Sergiev Posad.

There are three daily trains (two on Thursdays) to/from Kostroma (R303, 2½ hours). Transit northbound trains continue to Vologda (R500 to R1475, four hours, 11 daily) and Arkhangelsk (R1846 to R2935, 16 hours, four daily). Eastbound trains go to Perm (R2422 to R3414, 19 hours, three daily) and beyond the Urals.

To get to the station from the centre, take marshrutky (minibus) 45, 76 or 81, or buses 6, 8, or 72.

8Getting Around

From Yaroslavl Glavny train station, trolleybus 1 runs along ul Svobody to pl Volkova and on to Krasnaya pl. From the bus station trolleybus 5 or 9 goes to Bogoyavlenskaya pl. The fare is R20.

Maxim Taxi (%4852-666 666)

Troika Taxi (%4852-333 333)

Rostov-Veliky Ростов-Великий

%48536 / Pop 30,943 / Time Moscow

Coloured in the same delicate shade of pink as the sunsets they've been watching for hundreds of years, the impregnable walls and perfectly proportioned towers of Rostov-Veliky’s kremlin rise magnificently above the shimmering Lake Nero.

First chronicled in the year 862, Rostov-Veliky was the original capital of the Kyivan princes who moved into the Finno-Ugric lands that would later become known as Muscovy and Russia. Today it's a sleepy, village-like town that wakes you up with the sound of roosters and gets eerily quiet when darkness falls.

1Sights & Activities

oRostov-Veliky KremlinFORTRESS

(Ростовский кремль GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-61 502; www.rostmuseum.ru; ul Petrovicheva 1; joint ticket adult/child R600/free; h10am-5.30pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat)

Rostov-Veliky’s main attraction is unashamedly photogenic. Though founded in the 12th century, most of the buildings date to the 1670s and 1680s.

The five magnificent domes of the Assumption Cathedral (Успенский собор) dominate the kremlin from just outside its north wall. The oldest structure in Rostov-Veliky, it was completed in 1512; the belfry (Звонница; donation adult/child R100/50) was added in 1682. Each of its 15 bells has a name; the largest, weighing 32 tonnes, is called 'Sysoy'.

The west gate (the main entrance) and the north gate are straddled by the Gate-Church of St John the Divine (Надвратная церковь Иоанна Богослова) and the Gate-Church of the Resurrection (Надвратная церковь Воскресения), both of which are richly decorated with 17th-century frescoes. Enter these churches from the kremlin walls, which you can access from the stairs next to the north gate.

The metropolitan’s private chapel, the Church of the Saviour-over-the-Galleries (Церковь Спаса-на-Сенях), contained within the metropolitan’s house (Покои митрополита), has the most beautiful interior of all, covered in colourful frescoes. Other rooms in the house are filled with exhibits: the White Chamber (Белая палата) displays religious antiquities, while the Red Chamber (Красная палата) shows off beautiful, luminous pieces of finift (painted enamel miniatures), a Rostov artistic speciality.

If you don't want to buy the joint ticket, you can simply pay for individual exhibitions, which range from R50 to R200; to walk around the grounds only costs R50 (children get in free). Outside service hours, you can access the cathedral through the church shop on ul Karla Marksa.

Monastery of Saviour & St JacobMONASTERY, VIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Engelsa 44; h9am-7pm)

This restored monastery (originally founded in the late 14th century) is the sparkling-white fairy-tale apparition you’ll see as you approach Rostov-Veliky by road or rail. English-language tours may be available from the tour office next to the gates, but the best reason to visit is to climb the wall on its lake side (donation R50) and up to the tower in the southwestern corner – you'll enjoy stupendous 360-degree views over the monastery, Lake Nero and Rostov.

Outside the gates you'll find locals selling smoked fish and souvenirs. The monastery is 2km southwest of the kremlin; you can walk along the lake on ul Podozerka.

Boat TripsBOATING, CRUISE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-985-643 3084, 8-903-638 0133; ul Podozerka 35; tours per person R300, rental per hr R400; hMay-Sep)

For a different perspective on Rostov-Veliky, take a 45-minute cruise of Lake Nero. Boats leave from a pier on the lakefront to the southwest of the kremlin and pass the shoreside Monastery of Saviour & St Jacob as well as an island in the middle of the lake. You can also rent out rowboats and pedal boats to use yourself.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rostov-Veliky is a popular weekend destination, so hotels here often charge lower prices on weeknights. Yaroslavl is only an hour away, though, and has many more – and better – sleeping options, so it may not be worth staying overnight here.

KhorsGUESTHOUSE$

(Хорс GOOGLE MAP ; %8-962-209 0605, 48536-62 483; www.khors.org; ul Podozerka 31; d R1500, with shared bathroom R1000-1500; iW)

This sprawling, eclectic lakeside complex has seven small rooms (available in summer) with very basic furniture and shared bathroom and kitchen, as well as a year-round en-suite double and apartment. The lack of luxury is made up for by the friendly artist-owners (who have their own gallery), the huge garden and the rooftop deck with swing chairs overlooking Lake Nero.

Russkoye PodvoryeHOTEL$$

(Русское подворье GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-64 255; www.russkoe-podvorie.ru; ul Marshala Alexeyeva 9; d/tr from R1600/2800; aWs)

This hotel occupies an 18th-century arcaded merchant's house. Fairly modern rooms have spirit-lifting floral ornaments and comfy beds. Breakfasts are served in perhaps the best restaurant (Русское подворье GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-64 255; www.russkoe-podvorie.ru; ul Marshala Alexeyeva 9; mains R200-400, weekday lunch special R160; h8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) in town. You can splash out on larger suites with spa baths, and there's also a new sauna and small pool on-site.

Dom na PogrebakhHISTORIC HOTEL$$

(Дом на погребах GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-61 244; www.domnapogrebah.ru; d R2300-2500, with shared bathroom from R1000; W)

Right inside the kremlin near the east gate, this building dating from the late 17th century has clean, wood-panelled rooms with heavy doors and very basic furniture – but if you can snag a room looking out at the west gate the charming view will make up for it. Room 15 is particularly spacious, with newer furnishings and en-suite bathroom.

oYaroslavnaRESORT$$$

(Ярославна GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-67 002, 8-961-162 6986; www.yaroslavna-nero.ru; Yaroslavskiy sh 1b, Lvy; duplex d from R3900; pWs#)

For a taste of country life, try this resort on Lake Nero 7km south of Rostov-Veliky. Pine-log cabins contain duplex doubles; the 'family' cottage (from R7500) sleeps six. All are decorated in rustic style and have kitchenettes. With a restaurant, pool, spa, bani, playground and activities including horse riding, boat rides and even minigolf, you may not want to leave.

AppetitINTERNATIONAL$$

(Аппетит GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-64 404; Sobornaya pl 2; mains R280-430; h9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; Wc)

Hidden down a signed archway across from the kremlin is this cool little cafe with a chilled-out vibe and a large menu featuring Russian dishes, pizza, pastas, soups and salads (as well as omelettes and porridge for breakfast). Relax on couch seating inside or veranda seating outside (where there's also a little play area set up for the kids).

7Shopping

Dom RemyoselGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Дом ремесел GOOGLE MAP ; %48536-67 223, 48536-64 452; www.domremesel.com; Tolstovskaya nab 16; h10am-6pm)

This little crafts shop tucked away down a side street is perfect for browsing through gifts and souvenirs, handmade by local artists in a variety of styles: ceramics, woodcarvings, pillows, painted figurines and the like. The shop also offers classes in making dolls, clay whistles, bark shoes, Easter eggs and other traditional souvenirs (from R200 per person).

8Getting There & Away

The train station, which is called Rostov Yaroslavsky (Ростов-Ярославский GOOGLE MAP ; Privokzalnaya pl), is 2km north of the kremlin, off the M8. Buses leave from a kiosk just outside. Walking south along ul Lunacharskogo will take you to the centre of town.

Pereslavl-Zalessky Переславль-Залесский

%48535 / Pop 41,925 / Time Moscow

Another ancient lakeside town, Pereslavl-Zalessky is a popular dacha (summer country house) getaway for Muscovites. Its attractions are scattered around a large area, which makes it hard to explore without a car or a bicycle. But quiet and pretty spots are easily found once you escape from the main drag.

The town’s main claim to fame is as the birthplace of 13th-century prince (and later Russian saint) Alexander Nevsky. Its earthen walls and the little Cathedral of the Transfiguration are as old as the town itself, founded in 1152 by Prince Yury Dolguruky. Lake Pleshcheyevo is also famous as the unlikely cradle of the Russian navy – thanks to a boat-loving teenager who went on to become Peter the Great.

Note that the main road that runs through town changes names several times along its length. North of the Trubezh River it's Rostovskaya ul; within the centre it's Sovetskaya ul; and south of the old kremlin walls it's ul Kardovskogo. Finally, south of ul Podgornaya it becomes Moskovskaya ul.

1Sights & Activities

A number of sights are located on and near Krasnaya pl in the centre of town, within the grassy hills that are what remain of the ancient kremlin; these can be reached on foot. The rest are spread out along the road that splits off from the main street at Goritsky Monastery (ul Podgornaya) and curls around the western shore of the lake. Depending on how far you want to go, if you don't have your own wheels a taxi ride is your best bet for these.

At the tourist information office you can rent out an audio guide (R300) in English or German with several self-guided walking-tour routes around town.

In warmer months Lake Pleshcheyevo is a popular site for water activities such as windsurfing, kitesurfing and stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). Local outfitter Surf-Point ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-915-985 6434; www.surf-point.ru; ul Petra I 43b, Veskovo; hire/training per hr SUP R400/1000, windsurfing R800/1900, kitesurfing R1500/2500) offers lessons and equipment rental.

oPereslavl Railway MuseumMUSEUM

(Переславский железнодорожный музей GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-49 479; www.kukushka.ru; Talitsy; adult/child R150/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

A large collection of old locomotives, coaches, boxcars and other narrow-gauge railroad relics that once ran through this part of Russia (up to the middle of the 20th century) are displayed on tracks and inside a depot at this unique outdoor museum. Other interesting bits include a motorcar converted to run on rails and a recreated stationmaster's office, plus various train-themed souvenirs. Don’t miss a chance to ride under your own steam on the handcart (adult/child R150/free).

To get here by car, head west on Podgornaya ul from Pereslavl's main road (the same way as for the Botik Museum); continue 17km to Kupanskoye. Turn left at the blue sign that says 'Mузей Паровозов 3km' (Museum of Steam Locomotives), bear right at the fork and continue on to the tiny village of Talitsy. You'll need to park at the free lot at the village entrance and walk the last 400m to the museum. Exact GPS coordinates can be found on the museum's website.

Note that the only toilet facilities at the museum are two old-fashioned outhouses.

oGoritsky MonasteryMONASTERY

(Горицкий монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-38 100; www.museumpereslavl.ru; Muzeyny per 4; joint ticket adult/child R450/200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr)

This large hilltop monastery 2.5km south of the centre was founded in the 14th century, though the oldest buildings today are the 17th-century gates, gate-church and belfry. Its centrepiece is the Assumption Cathedral, with its beautiful carved iconostasis, but don't miss a trip up to the top floor of the Church of the Epiphany's belfry (Колокольня Церкви Богоявления GOOGLE MAP ; Goritsky Monastery; adult/child R80/50) for terrific views over Pereslavl and Lake Pleshcheyevo. The other buildings hold various art and history exhibits.

There are also some good views towards town and the lake from a guard tower in the southern monastery wall, behind the Assumption Cathedral.

If you don't want to buy the joint ticket you can also pay for individual exhibits, which range from R40 to R160 for adults (free to R40 for kids); to walk around the grounds only costs R50 (children get in free).

If driving, head south on the main road, head up the hill past the turn-off to the Botik Museum, then take the first right turn and follow it west to the monastery.

oAssumption CathedralCHURCH

(Собор Успения GOOGLE MAP ; Goritsky Monastery; adult/child R80/60)

Hearing your footsteps echoing in the gloom as you walk through this empty, unrestored cathedral (built 1744) within Goritsky Monastery makes it almost seem more sobering than an actual church service. The magnificent gilded iconostasis, completed in 1759, is populated with paintings of saints and religious scenes (a handy sign offers a key); along the doors at bottom is a carving of the Last Supper. Inside is also a display of old tombstones dating from the 16th to 18th centuries.

Peter’s Sailboat MuseumMUSEUM

(mузей Ботик Петра I GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-62 116; www.museumpereslavl.ru; ul Petra I, Veskovo; joint ticket adult/child R180/100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr)

Lake Pleshcheyevo is where a 16-year-old Peter the Great developed his obsession with the sea while on holiday. He continued to study navigation and boatbuilding and by age 20 had built a ‘toy flotilla’ of more than 100 small ships in Pereslavl, which he took out on the lake for naval manoeuvres. His sailboat Fortuna, one of only two of these 17th-century vessels to survive, is on display at this museum complex dedicated to Peter's seafaring efforts.

The Fortuna occupies its own building on the hilltop site; several other 19th-century buildings (including a recently restored one known as the White Palace) feature interesting historical and art exhibits relating to the emperor. The tree-shaded grounds make for a pleasant stroll.

The site is 3.5km west of Pereslavl's main road on Podgornaya ul; driving south from the town centre, turn right at the sign for the museum. You can park at the somewhat tacky boat-themed tourist plaza across the road; note that you'll have to pay for admission to the grounds first (R20), then walk up to the White Palace to buy tickets for the other exhibits (R40 to R100) – or else you can just buy the joint ticket for access to everything. There's also a brochure in English available for R10.

Forty Martyrs’ ChurchCHURCH

(Сорокосвятская церковь GOOGLE MAP ; Levaya nab 165)

Built in 1755, this lakeside church is named for the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste, a group of Roman soldiers who froze to death on a wintry lake in present-day Turkey rather than turn their backs on their Christian faith. It's not open to the public, but there's a beautiful (modern) tile-work rendition of the martyrs on the outer wall, and it's a lovely walk beside the Trubezh River ( GOOGLE MAP ) down to the lake.

Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the SaviourCHURCH

(Спасо-Преображенский собор GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-31 910; www.museumpereslavl.ru; Krasnaya pl; adult/child R80/50; h10am-6pm May-Sep)

At the northwestern end of Krasnaya pl, standing out against the background of the grassy remains of the ancient town walls, is one of the oldest buildings in Russia: this brilliant-white limestone church with a single sea-green dome, was built from 1152 to 1157 for Prince Yury Dolgoruky and his court (and restored in 2015). The interior is cool and hushed thanks to the 1.5m-thick walls. Inside is a 19th-century marble iconostasis; sadly, the original 12th-century frescoes have not survived.

Radio MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Радио GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-62 280; oldradio-gp@yandex.ru; Podgornaya ul 40; adult/child R150/50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Even if you can't understand Russian, if you love gadgets check out this two-storey museum packed with dozens of old radios, TV sets and film cameras, some of which are a century old. The radios, gleaming in polished wood cabinets with light-up dials, are particularly fetching – and many of them still work, as the couple who run the place will proudly display. Wait until you see the tiny TV screen ingeniously magnified by glycerine.

Krasnaya PloschadSQUARE

(Красная площадь GOOGLE MAP ; Sovetskaya ul)

This grassy square off the main road is at the heart of what was once Prince Yury Dolgoruky’s kremlin. At one end is the 1152 Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour; a bust of 13th-century prince Alexander Nevsky stands in front. Three additional churches across the square include the tent-roofed Church of Peter the Metropolitan (Церковь митрополита Петра GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sadovaya 5), built in 1585 and renovated in 1957, and the 18th-century twin churches fronting the road.

4Sleeping

oArt HotelAPARTMENT$$

(Арт-Отель GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-979 0706; art-hotel.pz@yandex.ru; Bolshaya Protechnaya ul 45; d incl breakfast R2800, 1-bedroom cottage R4000-4500; pW#)

Double rooms and cottages are set amid flowering gardens with pet rabbits, with an on-site art gallery and banya (available at extra cost); interiors are all lovingly hand-decorated in bohemian style featuring original artwork by the owners, who also own Gallery Guest House. The larger two-bedroom cottage (from R10,000) has its own kitchenette and can sleep up to six people.

oGallery Guest HouseB&B$$

(Гостевой Дом Галерея GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-823 5232; www.gallery-hotel.info; Podgornaya ul 86; r incl breakfast from R2500; pW#)

Each of the seven en-suite rooms at this lovely B&B are decorated in a different palette of warm hues, with natural-wood walls and hand-painted furniture. A delicious homemade breakfast is served in the sunny dining area. The common area doubles as a gallery, hung with paintings by local artists.

Albitsky Sad MotelHOTEL$$

(Альбицкий сад GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-31 430; www.albitskiisad.ru; ul Kardovskogo 21; s/d from R2500/3500; paW)

On the main road just south of the centre, ‘Albitsky Garden’ resembles an old manor house, with a flower-filled garden at the back. It offers 16 tastefully decorated rooms; the most recently refurbished ones are on the 2nd floor, with light colours and a cosy feel. 'Comfort'-level rooms have a mini-fridge. Breakfast is à la carte at the inviting restaurant.

5Eating

Cafe Pirog & BorschRUSSIAN, CAFE$

(Кафе Пирогъ & борщъ GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kardovskogo 3; mains R120-200; h10am-8pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat; W)

A colourful interior of traditional tiles puts this cheap and cheerful cafe a cut above. The menu features tasty classics such as vareniki (dumplings), soups, bliny and savoury pies (pirozhki), plus all-day breakfast. Look for the wooden house on the main road with orange trim and a small sign, just south of the old town walls. There's parking alongside.

oTraktir Popov LugRUSSIAN$$

(Трактир Попов Луг GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-94 542, 8-920-659 0682; www.popovlug.ru; ul Podgornaya; mains R350-550; h11am-11pm Sun-Mon, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Step back in time at 'Popov Meadow', a large log building kitted out like a medieval Russian tavern. Feast on locally caught fish and venison or homemade sausages and cheese from the restaurant's own farm while folk musicians play traditional tunes. There's also a farm store on-site selling organic produce.

Monpansier Cafe RestaurantRUSSIAN$$

(Кафе Монпансье GOOGLE MAP ; %8-901-195 7012, 48535-62 012; www.monpasie-pereslavl.com; Sovetskaya ul 10; mains R260-430; h9am-11pm; Wv)

Russian classics abound at this cosy central eatery decorated as if from Grandma's attic, although some European additions and seasonal specialties round out the menu nicely (there's a decent selection of vegetarian dishes, too). Terrace seating is available in summer. With some friends? Order the tea set and have your very own samovar brought to your table.

8Information

There's a freestanding Sberbank kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rostovskaya ul 27; h24hr) on the main street about 500m north of the river.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svobody 1a; h8am-1pm & 2-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat)

Tourist Information Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %48535-31 832; www.tourismpereslavl.ru; ul Proezdnaya 1; h9am-6pm; W) The friendly staff here are eager to help. City maps cost R50.

8Getting There & Away

Pereslavl-Zalessky is not on a train line, but buses travel frequently to Moscow (R550, 2¼ hours, six daily); they also stop at Sergiev Posad on the way (R300, 45 minutes). Others travel to Yaroslavl (R400, 2½ hours, 16 daily) via Rostov-Veliky (R250, 1¼ hours).

The bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Moskovskaya 113) is 4km southwest of the Trubezh River in the centre of town.

8Getting Around

Bus 1 runs up and down the main street from just south of the bus station; heading out from the centre you can catch it just north of the river.

Taxis wait at Narodnaya pl, on the west side of the main road just north of the river; you can also call directly.

888 Taxi (%48535-30 888)

Taxi Troika (%48535-26 333)

Sergiev Posad Сергиев Посад

%496 / Pop 113,492 / Time Moscow

Blue-and-gold cupolas offset by snow-white walls – this colour scheme lies at the heart of the Russian perception of divinity and Sergiev Posad’s monastery is a textbook example. It doesn’t get any holier than this in Russia, for the place was founded in 1340 by the country’s most revered saint, St Sergius of Radonezh. Since the 14th century, pilgrims have been journeying here to pay homage to him.

Although the Bolsheviks closed the monastery, it was reopened following WWII as a museum, residence of the patriarch and a working monastery. The patriarch and the church’s administrative centre moved to the Danilovsky Monastery in Moscow in 1988, but the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius remains one of the most important spiritual sites in Russia.

Pr Krasnoy Armii is the main street, running north to south through the town centre. The train and bus stations are on opposite corners of a wide square (Vokzalnaya pl) to the east of pr Krasnoy Armii; the monastery is about 1.5km north of there.

1Sights

oTrinity Monastery of St SergiusMONASTERY

(Свято-Троицкая Сергиева Лавра GOOGLE MAP ; %info 496-544 5334, tours 496-540 5721; www.stsl.ru; h5am-9pm)F

In 1340 St Sergius of Radonezh founded this lavra (senior monastery), which soon became the spiritual centre of Russian Orthodoxy. St Sergius was credited with providing mystic support to Prince Dmitry Donskoy in his improbable victory over the Tatars in the Battle of Kulikovo in 1380. Soon after his death at the age of 78, Sergius was named Russia’s patron saint.

Spruced up on the occasion of St Sergius' 700-year anniversary in 2014, the monastery is an active religious centre with a visible population of monks in residence. This mystical place is a window into the age-old belief system that has provided Russia with centuries of spiritual sustenance.

Built in 1423, the squat, gold-domed Trinity Cathedral (Троицкий собор) is the heart of the monastery, as well as its oldest surviving building. The tomb of St Sergius stands in the church's southeastern corner, where a memorial service for him goes on all day, every day. The icon-festooned interior, lit by oil lamps, is largely the work of the great medieval painter Andrei Rublyov and his students.

The star-spangled Cathedral of the Assumption (Успенский собор) was modelled on the cathedral of the same name in the Moscow Kremlin. It was finished in 1585 with money left by Ivan the Terrible in a fit of remorse for killing his son. To the left of the main entrance is the rectangular tomb of Boris Godunov, the only tsar not buried in the Moscow Kremlin or St Petersburg’s SS Peter & Paul Cathedral. Another notable grave is that of St Innokenty, known as the 'apostle of America' for founding the Russian Orthodox community in Alaska.

Nearby, the resplendent Chapel-at-the-Well (Накладезная часовня) was built over a spring that is said to have appeared during the Polish siege of 1608–10, in the Time of Troubles. The five-tier baroque bell tower (колокольня) – at 88.5m, the highest in Russia – took nearly 30 years to build (from 1741 to 1770), and once had 42 bells, the largest of which weighed 65 tonnes.

The sacristy (ризница), behind Trinity Cathedral, displays the monastery’s extraordinarily rich treasury, bulging with 600 years of donations by the rich and powerful – tapestries, jewel-encrusted vestments, solid-gold chalices and more. At the time of research it was unavailable for tours due to restoration works, with no set date to reopen.

The huge block with the ‘wallpaper’ paint job is the Refectory Church of St Sergius (Трапезная церковь преподобного Сергия), so called because it was once a dining hall for pilgrims. Now it’s the Assumption Cathedral’s winter counterpart, holding morning services in cold weather. It's closed outside services, except for guided tours. The green building next door is the metropolitan’s residence.

Toy MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Игрушек GOOGLE MAP ; %496-540 4101; www.museumot.info; pr Krasnoy Armii 123; adult/child R200/100; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)

The multiple changing exhibits feature toys from throughout Russian history and around the world; recent exhibits have included toys from the royal children of two centuries of the Romanov dynasty and toys with a naval theme. The museum has a particularly good collection of nesting dolls, as Sergiev Posad was the centre of matryoshka production before the revolution. Children under 3 are admitted for free.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fox House HostelHOSTEL$

(Фокс Хаус хостел GOOGLE MAP ; %8-968-085 8300; foxhousehostel@gmail.com; 2nd fl, pr Krasnoy Armii 96; dm R500-600, d R1600; W)

This little hostel about 750km south of the monastery is very convenient for the train and bus stations. There are four- and six-bed dorms (one for women only) as well as private rooms, and a small common area with a kitchen and a long dining table. Some snacks, beer and pre-made food (eg pasta, salad) are available for purchase, too.

Old Hotel LavraHOTEL$$

(Старая гостиница Лавры GOOGLE MAP ; %496-549 9000; www.lavrahotel.ru; pr Krasnoy Armii 133; s/d from R2700/3100; W)

Built in 1822 as pilgrim accommodation, this massive monastery hotel has been revived in its original capacity, with nothing to distract its supposedly puritan guests from prayer and contemplation – not even TV. But despite their blandness, rooms are modern and very clean. There's a vast restaurant on the premises. Unsurprisingly, alcohol is strictly banned throughout the complex. Breakfast is R200.

Varenichnaya No 9DUMPLINGS$

(Вареничная Nо 9 GOOGLE MAP ; %8-965-373 2732; ul Karla Marksa 3; dumplings R200-300; h9am-10pm; Wv)

The dining room is decorated like a classic library (shelves of old books, dark-leather couch seating and vintage Russian posters) at this satisfying dumpling cafe a block off the main street. The menu has sections for Russian, Asian and Italian dumplings, with several vegetarian options. Finish up with Turkish coffee or espresso and one of the monster-sized slices of cake.

oGostevaya IzbaRUSSIAN$$

(Гостевая Изба GOOGLE MAP ; %496-541 4343; www.sergiev-kanon.ru; Aptekarsky per 2; meals R350-850; h10am-11pm; v)

Right by the monastery walls, this wonderful restaurant recreates classic dishes metropolitans of the past might have eaten outside fasting periods, such as apple-roasted duck breast with lingonberry sauce. Portions are ample and the food delicious. Try some kvas (fermented rye bread water), fireweed tea or Siberian malt lemonade straight from the monastery's own brewery.

Fortunately for vegetarians, the menu has a considerable fasting section, too.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bar SvoiCRAFT BEER

(Бар Свои GOOGLE MAP ; %8-963-787 3289; www.svoi.bar; 1-ya Rybnaya ul 9/26; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W)

The best bar that we found in Sergiev Posad, with a selection of 20 rotating craft beers on draught (as well as Guinness for the purists). There's a decent menu of pub grub, too. The 2nd floor has booths and sometimes live music.

Popeye Coffee BarCOFFEE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeebarpopeye.ru; Vokzalnaya pl 1; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)

This piccolo-sized coffee shop isn't much bigger than a large closet, but if you're travelling via bus or train it's the best place to find properly made espresso-based drinks (even flat whites) as soon as you get to town. Look for the corner door immediately to the right of the McDonald's facing the train station.

7Shopping

Gorod MasterovARTS & CRAFTS

(Город мастеров GOOGLE MAP ; %8-903-583 3160, 496-541 4130; www.city-of-craftsmen.ru; ul Karla Marksa 7; h10am-7pm)

Forget the carbon-copy matryoshki you see at tourist stalls everywhere – 'City of Craftsmen' sells beautiful hand-painted nesting dolls that are several cuts above, including sets of animals, old Russian kings and even astronauts. There are also carved wooden boxes and lovely Christmas ornaments. You can also take a class (R500) and paint your own matryoshka (advance booking required).

8Getting There & Away

Considering the horrendous traffic jams on the road approaches to Moscow, train is a much better way of getting to Sergiev Posad from the capital.

Bus

A suburban route, Bus 388 to Sergiev Posad (R200, 1½ hours) departs from Moscow’s VDNKh metro station approximately every 15 minutes from 6.45am to 10.50pm.

Transit buses for Yaroslavl (R550, three hours) pass regularly; all these will take you to Pereslavl-Zalessky (R300, 45 minutes) and Rostov-Veliky (R400, two hours) if you can get a ticket. You can catch buses to Kostroma or Rybinsk from Yaroslavl. The bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Vokzalnaya pl 49a) is about 370m east of pr Krasnoy Armii, opposite the train station.

Train

The fastest transport option is the express commuter train that departs from Moscow’s Yaroslavsky vokzal (R210 to R260, one hour); there are four daily during the week, three on weekends. Cheaper but slower elektrichki (R164, 1½ hours) depart a few times per hour throughout the day. The train station (Сергиев Посад GOOGLE MAP ; Vokzalnaya pl) is 400m east of pr Krasnoy Armii, opposite the bus station.

Since there are no direct trains to Pereslavl-Zalessky or Rostov-Veliky, you'll need to take a bus from Sergiev Posad.

8Getting Around

Numerous marshrutky (fixed-route minibuses) run up and down pr Krasnoy Armii to and from pl Vokzalnaya; if you're heading back to the bus or train station, look for a bus with a sign saying на вокзал (na vokzal; 'to the station') in the window.

Taxi Standart (%8-916-547 4444; www.taxi-standart.ru)

WORTH A TRIP

NORTHERN VOLGA CIRCUIT

If you're intrigued by the idea of a trip through markedly less touristy and slightly desolate northern Russian towns and villages, take the following circuit route, starting in Yaroslavl. While doable by local buses, it's much better in a rented car – the roads are almost empty and the scenery is captivating.

From Yaroslavl, regional road R151 goes northwest along the Volga River to Tutayev (Тута́ев; also known by its old name – Romanov-Borisoglebsk), 39km away. Disregard the slightly drab environs on the embankment and look across the Volga: the view of its far bank (which you can reach by ferry) is astonishingly idyllic, with quaint churches and wooden houses scattered around green hills.

From Tutayev, it's 51km along the same road to Rybinsk (Рыбинск). This busy city has a well-preserved historic centre and a beautiful Volga embankment graced by the towering edifice of the New Bread Exchange, built in the Russian revivalist style in 1912 (it now houses an interesting regional museum). There are numerous hotels in Rybinsk; YurLa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4855-289 063; http://en.yurla.ru; Volzhskaya nab 201, Rybinsk; s/d incl breakfast from R2500/3000; paW) offers good value and a convenient riverside location. SupBerry (Гастропаб СупBerry GOOGLE MAP ; %485-555 0001; www.vk.com/supberry_cafe; ul Stoyalaya 16, Rybinsk; mains R200-500; h10am-11pm; W) is a great, centrally located gastropub.

After Rybinsk, the route turns sharply southwest via the R104 towards Myshkin (Мышкин), 47km away; at Korovino you'll need to take a ferry (Мышкинский паром GOOGLE MAP ; Korovino; cars R250, pedestrians free; hdeparts hourly, 6.30am-8.30pm) across the Volga. A small town of wooden cottages, tiny Myshkin has for years been leveraging the pun in its name, which contains the Russian word for ‘mouse’. Unless you have a mighty mouse mania you can skip the rather twee Museum of Mice – the eclectic (and packed) collection of artefacts in the history museum (Музей истории города GOOGLE MAP ; ul Uglichskaya 19, Myshkin; adult/child R60/40; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) across the road is considerably more interesting.

Head south out of Myshkin on Lesnaya ul/78N, following the Volga 54km southwest to Uglich (Углич) – the scene of an unsolved crime that changed Russian history. In 1591, eight-year-old Prince Dmitry, the youngest son of Ivan the Terrible, died in rather suspicious circumstances. The official report was that he fell on a knife during an epileptic fit; many believe, however, that he was killed on the orders of his foster father, Boris Godunov, to remove him from the line of succession.

Within the riverside kremlin ( GOOGLE MAP ; %48532-53 678; www.uglmus.ru; ul Kreml, Uglich; adult/student/child R350/300/100; h9am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter), the 15th-century Prince’s Chambers house a historical exhibit on Dmitry's sad fate. The star-spangled Church of St Dmitry on the Blood was built in 1692 on the spot where the body was found. Its 300kg bell, which announced the boy's death, was banished for many years to the Siberian town of Tobolsk (after Godunov ordered it to be publicly flogged and have its 'tongue' ripped out); it has since returned to its rightful location in Uglich. If you want to spend the night, you can splash out on a room at the opulent Volzhskaya Riviera (Волжская Ривьера GOOGLE MAP ; %48532-91 900; www.volga-hotel.com; Uspenskaya pl 8, Uglich; r from R2290-4370; paiWs).

Head south from Uglich on R104, and then east on R153 for 70km, to reach Borisoglebsky (Борисогле́бский), home of the astounding white fortress of the Rostov-Borisoglebsky Monastery, built in 1363. Continue east for another 22km to reach the town of Rostov-Veliky and the M8 Moscow–Yaroslavl highway.