SPP E-Book

2Activities

Bathouses & Spas

oPalace Bridge Wellness ClubSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-335 2214; www.pbwellnessclub.ru; Birzhevoy per 4a; before/after 4pm Mon-Fri R990/1390, 4hr/whole day Sat & Sun R1790/1990, children 3-12yr half-price, children under 3yr free; hgym, sauna & pool 7am-11pm, spa 10am-10pm; mSportivnaya)

Attached to the Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, there's a good gym and a variety of spa treatments here, but the highlights are the giant swimming pool (with jet fountains to massage tired backs) and the many styles of sauna (including Finnish and Russian) in which to steam away all your stresses.

Degtyarniye BathsBATHHOUSE

(Дегтярные Бани MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-985 1983; www.d1a.ru; Degtyarnaya ul 1a; per hr R400-750, private banya R4500-17,500; h8.30am-10pm; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

These modern baths are divided up into men’s and women’s sections, or you can book private unisex bani (hot baths) of varying degrees of luxury (these accommodate up to 14 people). Prices are cheaper before 1pm on weekdays. Minimum charge of two hours.

Mytninskiye BaniBATHHOUSE

(Мытнинские бани MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mybanya.spb.ru; ul Mytninskaya 17-19; per hr R200-350; h8am-10pm Fri-Tue; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

Unique in the city, Mytninskiye Bani is heated by a wood furnace, just like the log-cabin bathhouses that are still found in the Russian countryside. It's actually the oldest communal banya (hot bath) in the city, and in addition to a parilka (steam room) and plunge pool, the private ‘lux’ banya (R1000 to R2000 per hour) includes a swanky lounge area with leather furniture and a pool table.

Kazachiye BaniBATHHOUSE

(Казачьи бани MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kazbani.ru; Bolshoy Kazachy per 11; per 2hr R100-300, private banya per hr R850-1700; h8am-10pm Tue-Sun; mPushkinskaya)

Following a trend that is occurring throughout the city, the communal banya is something of an afterthought here. The majority of the venue is given over to very swanky, private bani, which are an excellent option for groups of up to 10 people. The cheaper communal banya is good value though.

Kayaking & Yachting

oPiter KayakKAYAKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-435 9457; http://piterkayak.com; nab Kryukova kanala 26; tours R1700-2500; htours 7am Tue-Sun Apr-Sep)

Experienced kayaker Denis and his friendly young team lead these excellent early morning tours which last around four hours and cover 11km. The canals and rivers are at their quietest at this time and, unlike on regular boat tours, the slower pace allows you to admire the wonderful surroundings at your leisure.

Wild RussiaADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-313 8030; www.wildrussia.spb.ru; office 224, nab reki Fontanki 59; mGostiny Dvor)

Yachting and kayaking on Lake Ladoga can be arranged through the friendly and capable guys at Wild Russia. They can also arrange many other outdoor activities including off-road biking, parachuting, quad biking and rock climbing outside the city.

TTours

In a city as large as St Petersburg, a lot of travellers prefer to be shown around on a walking tour to kick things off. There are several excellent ones on offer, as well as bike tours and a hop-on, hop-off bus that can take you around the main sights of the centre. Viewing St Petersburg from a boat is an idyllic way to tour the city, and during the main tourist season (May to October) there are plenty of boats offering to help you do this. They are typically found at the Anichkov most landing on the Fontanka River, just off Nevsky pr; on the Neva outside the Hermitage and the Admiralty; beside the Kazansky most over the Griboyedova Canal; and along the Moyka River at Nevsky pr.

oPeterswalk Walking ToursWALKING

(%812-943 1229; http://peterswalk.com; from R1320)

Going for over 20 years, Peter Kozyrev’s innovative and passionately led tours are highly recommended as a way to see the city with knowledgeable locals. The daily Original Peterswalk (R1320) is one of the favourites and leaves daily from the Julia Child Bistro at 10.30am from April to end of September. Other tours from around R2000.

oSputnik ToursWALKING

(%499-110 5266; www.sputnik8.com; price varies)

This online tour agency is one with a difference: it acts as a marketplace for locals wanting to give their own unique tours of their own city. Browse, select a tour, register and pay a deposit and then you are given the contact number of the guide. A superb way to meet locals you'd never meet otherwise.

oAnglo TourismoBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-989 4722; http://anglotourismo.com; 27 nab reki Fontanki; 1hr cruise adult/student R1900/900; mGostiny Dvor)

There’s a huge number of companies offering cruises all over the Historic Heart, all with similar prices and itineraries. Anglo Tourismo, however, is the only operator to run tours with commentary in English. Between May and September the schedule runs every 1½ hours between 11am and 6.30pm. From 1 June to 31 August there are also additional night cruises.

City TourBUS

(%812-648 1228; https://citytourspb.ru; day pass adult/child R700/300)

The familiar red ‘hop on, hop off’ double-decker buses you’ll see in most big cities in Europe (and beyond) are now well-established in St Petersburg. They offer a useful service for anyone unable to walk easily; buses run along Nevsky pr, passing the Hermitage, going over the Strelka, the Petrograd Side and then back to the historic centre.

Tickets are valid for as many trips in the time period as you like, and you can buy tickets when you board the bus. In summer months they also run a 'hop on, hop off' boat tour (one day bus and boat pass adult/child R1400/700) around the main rivers and canals.

`2`City Walk
Historic Heart

Start Dvortsovaya pl

End Kupetz Eliseevs

Length 2km; three hours

Approach the magnificent 1Palace Square on Dvortsovaya pl, from Bolshaya Morskaya ul. Turning the corner from Nevsky pr, behold the 2Alexander Column, perfectly framed under the triumphal arch with the 3Winter Palace as its elaborate backdrop. Turn right at the square's northeast corner to find the colossal 4Atlantes holding aloft the portico of the New Hermitage.

At the Moyka River, cross to the eastern bank using either span of the 5Pevchesky Most. Head north along the river to the final residence of Russia’s most celebrated poet and now the 6Pushkin Flat-Museum. Around the corner, Konyushennaya pl is dominated by the 18th-century court stables, currently under restoration. In the middle of the complex you can visit the 7Church of the Saviour Not Made by Human Hand where Pushkin's funeral service was held.

Rest for a while in either the 8Mars Field, the former imperial guard parade grounds back over the Moyka River, or in the shady canal-side 9Mikhailovsky Gardens. Revived, you'll now be ready for the spectacular aChurch on the Spilled Blood. There's a spetacular view of the church from bTeatralny most near the intersection of the Moyka and Griboyedov Canal.

Detour off nab kanala Griboyedova to find a statue of Pushkin in the middle of pretty cpl Iskusstv. The square is ringed by celebrated cultural institutions, including the dRussian Museum and eMikhailovsky Theatre.

At the junction of Nevsky pr and nab kanala Griboyedova admire the Style Moderne beauty fSinger Building. It's a whimsical contrast to the formidable gKazan Cathedral opposite. Behind the mammoth church, hBankovsky most is the city’s most picturesque and photographed bridge.

Head up Dumskaya ul to return to Nevsky pr and navigate your way along the exterior vaulted gallery surrounding the iBolshoy Gostiny Dvor, the 18th-century trading arcade still serving shoppers. A short walk east along Nevsky pr is Ploshchad Ostrovskogo, a small park with an impressive jstatue of Catherine the Great and a view the impressive facade of the kAlexandrinsky Theatre. Opposite, you can finish up at one of the cafes at the grand food hall lKupetz Eliseevs.

zFestivals & Events

EasterRELIGIOUS

(Paskha; GOOGLE MAP ; hMar/Apr)

Head to Kazan Cathedral to see Russia’s most important religious festival in full Russian Orthodox style: the church (as well as many others around the city) is packed out.

Mariinsky Ballet FestivalPERFORMING ARTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mariinsky.ru; hApr)

The city’s principal dance theatre hosts this week-long international ballet festival, where the cream of Russian ballet dancers showcase their talents.

Victory DayCELEBRATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9 May)

St Petersburg celebrates not only the end of WWII in 1945 but also the breaking of the Nazi blockade. The highlight is a victory parade on Nevsky pr, culminating in soldiers marching on Dvortsovaya pl and fireworks over the Neva in the evening.

City DayFIESTA

( GOOGLE MAP ; h27 May)

Laying flowers at the Monument to Peter I on Senate Square (Bronze Horseman) is a tradition on the city’s official birthday. Mass celebrations are held throughout the city centre including brass bands, folk dancing and mass drunkenness.

Stars of the White Nights FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mariinsky.ru; hlate May–mid-Jul)

Held at the Mariinsky, the Conservatoire and the Hermitage Theatre, this festival has become a huge draw and now lasts far longer than the White Nights (officially the last 10 days of June) after which it is named. You’ll see ballet, opera and classical music concerts premiered and reprised.

Scarlet SailsFIREWORKS

(Алые паруса GOOGLE MAP ; http://parusaspb.ru; hJun)

The highlight of the White Nights season, this one-night festival includes performing arts staged in Palace Square, and crowds of around one million lining the banks of the Neva for a spectacular fireworks display and to see a magnificent red-sail Swedish frigate float by.

Festival of FestivalsFILM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.filmfest.ru; hlate Jun)

This annual international film festival held at the Rodina cinema is a non-competitive showcase of the best Russian and world cinema.

Open Look/Russian LookDANCE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.open-look.org; hJul)

Contemporary dance companies from around the world perform in the prestigious Open Look festival, with shows mainly at the Alexandrinksy's New Stage as well as a handful of other venues. It's immediately followed by Russian Look, which showcases the home-grown talent.

Usadba JazzMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://usadba-jazz.com; hJul)

The musical juggernaut that is Russia's largest open-air festival of jazz and all kinds of other improvised contemporary music makes its way to Yelagin Island.

SKIFPERFORMING ARTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kuryokhin.net; hSep)

Dedicated to Sergey Kuryokhin (1954–96), a talented local musician, actor and all round creative, this long-running festival focuses on the experimental and cutting edge across a range of artistic disciplines including music, art and film.

Arts Square Winter FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.artsquarewinterfest.ru; hDec)

A musical highlight of the year, this festival at the Philharmonia takes different themes each year. Both classical and contemporary opera and orchestral works are staged.

ST PETERSBURG FOR CHILDREN

There are plenty of activities that children will love in St Petersburg, especially during the summer months when the whole city is something of an outdoor playground.

Top museums for children include the Museum of Zoology, with thousands of stuffed animals (including several mammoths) on display; the Railway Museum, where you can see a range of scale locomotives and model railway bridges; and the Central Naval Museum with its superb collection of model boats. Also sure to entrance kids and adults alike are the incredibly detailed scale models of early 18th century St Petersburg at Petrovskaya Akvatoria (Петровская Акватория MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-933 4152; www.peteraqua.ru; Malaya Morskaya ul 4/1; adult/child R400/200; h10am-10pm; mAdmiralteyskaya) and the even more epic model village of Russia's greatest sights at Grand Maket.

One of the best parks to take kids in the city is on New Holland where there's a great kid's playground, a wooden model of a frigate to climb around, a giant chess set and free pétanque (a form of boules). Amusement parks, boats and bikes for hire, and lots of open space make the Kirovsky Islands another great outdoors option.

Wonderful puppet shows can be seen at both the Bolshoy Puppet Theatre (Большой театр кукол MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.puppets.ru; ul Nekrasova 10; tickets R350-600; mChernyshevskaya) and Demmeni Marionette Theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-310 5879; www.demmeni.ru; Nevsky pr 52; htickets from R500; mGostiny Dvor). For traditional-style circus shows the historic St Petersburg State Circus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-570 5198; www.circus.spb.ru; nab reki Fontanki 3; tickets R500-6000; mGostiny Dvor) can't be beat.

4Sleeping

Hotels in St Petersburg are fairly expensive, with a lack of good midrange places in the city centre. Though they do exist, they tend to get booked up well in advance (particularly during the summer months), so plan ahead if you want to stay in the historic heart.

It is essential to reserve at least a month in advance for accommodation during the White Nights (late May to early July).

The following price ranges refer to the cheapest room available during the high season (May to July).

€ less than R3000

€€ R3000–15,000

€€€ more than R15,000

ACCOMMODATION AGENCIES

The following local agencies can help you with short-term accommodation:

HOFA (www.hofa.ru)

Intro by Irina (www.introbyirina.com)

Ostwest.com

Historic Heart

oBaby Lemonade HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-570 7943; http://babylemonade.epoquehostels.com; Inzhenernaya ul 7; dm/d with shared bathroom from R600/2500, d from R3800; iW; mGostiny Dvor)

The owner of Baby Lemonade is crazy about the 1960s and it shows in the pop-art, psychedelic design of this friendly, fun hostel with two pleasant, large dorms and a great kitchen and living room. However, it's worth splashing out for the boutique-hotel-worthy private rooms that are in a separate flat with great rooftop views.

oFriends Hostel by Gostiny DvorHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-740 4720; www.en.friendsplace.ru/druzya-na-lomonosova; ul Lomonosova 3; r from R5200; iW; mGostiny Dvor)

Sharing the top floor of a renovated historic building with a budget hotel, this is one of the best branches of the Friends chain. There are no dorms here and all the rooms have attached bathrooms, but the same cosy, quirky decorative charm is in place – complete with cuddly toys and flowery print curtains and linens.

oRachmaninov Antique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-327 7466; www.hotelrachmaninov.com; Kazanskaya ul 5; s/d from R6300/7500; iW; mNevsky Prospekt)

The long-established Rachmaninov still feels like a secret place for those in the know. Perfectly located and run by friendly staff, it's pleasantly old world, with hardwood floors and attractive Russian furnishings, particularly in the breakfast salon, which has a grand piano.

Pio on GriboyedovHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-571 9476; http://hotelpio.ru; nab kanala Griboyedova 35, apt 5; s/d with shared bathroom from R3400/4000, with private bathroom from R4500/5500; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

There are just six rooms here and three of them share bathrooms and toilets, but it is much more like staying in a large apartment than a hostel. The communal areas are very pleasant and the rooms are comfortable and clean. Even better is the friendly service, central location and big windows overlooking the canal.

3MostAHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-611 1188; www.3mosta.com; nab reki Moyki 3a; s/d from R5000/9000; aW; mNevsky Prospekt)

Near three bridges over the Moyka River, this 26-room property is surprisingly uncramped given its wonderful location. Even the standard rooms are of a good size, with tasteful furniture, minibars and TVs. Some rooms have great views across to the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood, and all guests have access to the roof for the panoramic experience.

Anichkov PensionPENSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-314 7059; www.anichkov.com; Apt 4, Nevsky pr 64; s/d/ste incl breakfast R5500/6000/10,000; aW; mGostiny Dvor)

On the 3rd floor of a handsome apartment building with an antique lift, this six-room pension takes its name from the nearby bridge. The standard rooms are fine, but the suites are well worth paying a little more for. The delightful breakfast room with a grand piano offers balcony views. Look for the entrance on Karavannaya ul.

oBelmond Grand Hotel EuropeHERITAGE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-329 6000; www.belmond.com/grand-hotel-europe-st-petersburg; Mikhailovskaya ul 1/7; s/d from R26,500/31,270; aiWs; mNevsky Prospekt)

Since 1830, when Carlo Rossi united three adjacent buildings with the grandiose facade we see today, little has been allowed to change in this heritage building. No two rooms are the same at this iconic hotel, but most are spacious and elegant. It's worth paying extra for the terrace rooms, which afford spectacular views across the city's rooftops.

oRossi HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-635 6333; www.rossihotels.com; nab reki Fontanki 55; s/d/ste from R9740/9830/15,230; aiW; mGostiny Dvor)

Occupying a beautifully restored building on one of St Petersburg’s prettiest squares, the Rossi's 65 rooms are all designed differently, but their brightness and moulded ceilings are uniform. Antique beds, super-sleek bathrooms, exposed brick walls and lots of cool designer touches create a great blend of old and new.

Hotel AstoriaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-494 5757; www.roccofortehotels.com; Bolshaya Morskaya ul 39; r/ste from R34,800/76,000; aiWs; mAdmiralteyskaya)

What the Hotel Astoria has lost of its original Style Moderne decor, it more than compensates for in contemporary style and top-notch service. Little wonder it’s beloved of visiting VIPs, from kings to rock stars. Rooms marry the hotel’s heritage character with a more modern design, while the best suites are sprinkled with antiques and have spectacular views onto St Isaac’s Cathedral.

The same views – at a slightly lower price – are also available next door at its sister property, the Angleterre Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-494 5607; www.angleterrehotel.com; Malaya Morskaya ul 24; r/ste from R24,545/58,765; aiWs; mAdmiralteyskaya), where guests can use the gym and pool.

Kempinski Hotel Moyka 22HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-335 9111; www.kempinski.com; nab reki Moyki 22; r/ste with breakfast from R26,000/47,400; aiW; mNevsky Prospekt)

Practically on the doorstep of the Hermitage, this superb hotel has all the comforts you’d expect of an international luxury chain. Rooms have a stylish marine theme, with cherry-wood furniture and a handsome navy-blue-and-gold colour scheme. The 360-degree panorama from the rooftop Belle View restaurant and bar is unbeatable.

Smolny & Vosstaniya

Kultura HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %921-870 0177; http://kulturahostel.com; ul Vosstaniya 24; dm/r with shared bathroom from R550/3000; W; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

Following the formula of other creative clusters around town, this one, behind the post office on ul Vosstaniya, is also home to a hostel. In this case, some thought has been applied to the design of the rooms, each of which has colourful St Petersburg–themed designs on the walls. The location is cool, with boutiques, cafes and a bar on hand.

Red House HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %911-785 6488; www.redhousehostel.com; 2nd fl, ul Belinskogo 11; dm R550-700; nW; mMayakovskaya)

With its very desirable central location, the Red House Hostel is a fine choice. It's small, and rather cramped with six- to 12-bed dorms, but guests are made to feel right at home in this somewhat bohemian abode. There's a communal kitchen and a washing machine.

Hotel IndigoHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-454 5577; www.indigospb.com; ul Chaykovskogo 17, Smolny; r from R10,700; naiW; mChernyshevskaya)

A total overhaul of the original building – a pre-revolutionary hotel in its day – paved the way for the sleek and stylish Hotel Indigo, a big step up from many St Petersburg offerings with its excellent service and handsomely designed guest rooms. The incredible atrium makes even the interior-facing rooms light filled, and touches such as rain showers and free minibars in rooms are also very welcome.

Nils Bed & BreakfastHOMESTAY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-923 0575; www.rentroom.ru; 5-ya Sovetskaya ul 21, Smolny; s R3850-4600, d R4900-5600; W; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

Nils Bed & Breakfast is an excellent option at a great price. Four spacious rooms share two modern bathrooms, as well as a beautiful light-filled common area and kitchen. Nils renovated this place himself, taking great care to preserve the mouldings, wooden floors and other architectural elements.

Pio on MokhovayaB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-273 3585; Mokhovaya ul 39, Smolny; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast R3500/4500/5400/6100; nW; mChernyshevskaya)

This lovely lodging is the second Pio property in St Petersburg. It's very spacious, stylish and comfortable, as well as being child friendly, with family groups warmly welcomed and provided for. It's in a quiet, residential neighbourhood a short walk from the Historic Heart. There is also a Finnish sauna on site. Call 10 on the intercom to be buzzed in.

OgnivoGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-579 6295; www.ognivo-spb.com; ul Chaykovskogo 4; s/d from R4000/4800)

Ognivo earns high marks for its attractive, well-maintained rooms and quiet location. There's a bit of whimsy to the design in some of the 15 rooms, with inner wooden shutters over the windows, bold wallpaper and wildly patterned tilework in the bathrooms – others have cast-iron chandeliers and wood-beamed ceilings for a more medieval look.

Demetra Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-640 0408; www.demetra-art-hotel.com; ul Vosstaniya 44; r R16,000-24,000, ste R36,000; aW; mChernyshevskaya)

In a grand art nouveau building dating from 1913, the Demetra Art Hotel has plush rooms with oak flooring, richly patterned drapes and duvets, and touches of artwork throughout (reproductions of works from the celebrated Erata Museum). Some rooms can be on the small side, though the top-notch service, stylish bar and restaurant, and great location add to the appeal.

Dom Boutique HotelHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.domboutiquehotel.uk; Gangutskaya ul 4; r R12,000-20,000; aW; mChernyshevskaya)

Just off the Fontanka River, this newish place has stylish rooms with king-sized beds, classy furniture and gilded antique-looking mirrors, plus sleek bathrooms with black subway tiles and brass fixtures. The common areas are fine spots to unwind, and there's a restaurant and bar on hand.

Sennaya & Kolomna

oSoul Kitchen HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-965-816 3470; www.soulkitchenhostel.com; nab reki Moyki 62/2, apt 9, Sennaya; dm R1500-2400, d R5700-9000; iW; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Soul Kitchen blends boho hipness and boutique-hotel comfort, scoring perfect 10s in many key categories: private rooms (chic), dorm beds (double-width with privacy-protecting curtains), common areas and kitchen (all beautifully designed). The lounge is a fine place to hang out, with a record player, a big screen projector (for movie nights) and an artful design.

oAlexander HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-334 3540; www.a-house.ru; nab kanala Kryukova 27, Kolomna; s/d/apt incl breakfast from R9000/12,200/14,600; naW; mSadovaya)

This historic building opposite the Nikolsky Cathedral dates back to 1826, and contains a beautifully designed guesthouse. Each of the 14 spacious rooms are named after a city (Kyoto, Marrakesh, Venice) and contain artwork and crafts from there. Beautifully polished floors, warm colours and beamed ceilings are common throughout. There's also a lovely fireplace-warmed lounge and a vine-laden courtyard, plus a guests-only restaurant.

oAndrey & Sasha’s HomestayAPARTMENT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-409 6701, 812-315 3330; asamatuga@mail.ru; nab kanala Griboyedova 51, Sennaya; r R5800-7300; W; mSadovaya)

Energetic Italophiles Andrey and Sasha extend the warmest of welcomes to travellers lucky enough to rent out one of their three apartments (by the room or in its entirety). All are centrally located and eclectically decorated with lots of designer touches and an eye for beautiful furniture, tiles and mirrors. Bathrooms are shared, as are kitchen facilities.

Chao MamaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-570 0444; www.chaomama.ru; Grazhdanskaya ul 27; d R3600-7500; aW; mSadovaya)

In an excellent location, Chao Mama has nine stylish rooms, each boasting a unique design, and offers excellent value for money. The best rooms have small kitchenettes and ample natural light, while the 54-sq-metre Gagarin Room has two balconies and sleeps up to four. For something a little cosier, opt for the artistically designed Jacqueline, which also boasts a fireplace.

Hotel GogolHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-571 1841; www.gogolhotel.com; nab kanala Griboyedova 69, Sennaya; s/d from R5100/6400; naW; mSadovaya)

There's great value to be had at this centrally located hotel, a conversion of the house where the great writer Nikolai Gogol himself apparently once lived. The rooms are cosy and enjoy inoffensive decoration, with views of the canal or a quiet residential courtyard. Reception is on the 2nd floor, and there's a basement restaurant.

Zolotaya SeredinaHOTEL$$

(Золотая Середина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %931-592 6413; www.retrohotel.ru; Grazhdanskaya ul 16, Sennaya; s/d with shared bathroom R2100/2500, with bathroom R2900/3400; W; mSadovaya)

Tucked into a quiet courtyard in the narrow streets north of Sennaya pl, this friendly little hotel is a great bargain. A few antiques are scattered around to justify its ‘retro’ claims, but most furniture and all facilities are quite modern, with a kitchen for guest use, as well as a washing machine.

Hotel Domina PrestigeHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-385 9900; www.dominarussia.com; nab Reki Moyki 99, Sennaya; r R9100-21,000; naW; mAdmiralteyskaya)

This excellent property makes an immediate impression as its traditional Moyka embankment exterior gives way to a bright, modern and colourful atrium. Some of the decor is undoubtedly rather Russian in taste, but it's still stylish and fun. Rooms are comfortable and spacious, with extras such as coffee facilities and great bathrooms. There's also a sauna, gym and restaurant.

Vasilyevsky Island

Online HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-329 9594; http://online-hostel.com/; Apt 1, 6-ya liniya 27; dm/d incl breakfast from R800/2700; iW; mVasileostrovskaya)

The pick of the hostels on Vasilyevsky Island couldn't have a more convenient location, opposite the metro station. Dorms are pretty cramped but there's a welcoming and colourful vibe to the place. Fun touches include an electronic keyboard and Xbox games to play in the lounge and kitchen area.

oNasHotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-323 2231; www.nashotel.ru; 11-ya liniya 50; s/d from R9500/10,600; aW; mVasileostrovskaya)

This spotless, smart and stylish hotel occupies a very tall, beautifully remodelled building with a striking exterior on this quiet side street. Its rooms are blazes of colours, complete with modern furnishings, garish art and great views from the higher floors.

A nice perk are the free bicycles for guests to use to get around.

Sokos Hotel Palace BridgeBUSINESS HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-335 2200; www.sokoshotels.com; Birzhevoy per 4a; r from R10,900; ai; mSportivnaya)

This is the best of several hotels in the city run by Finnish chain Sokos because of its excellent spa and fitness centre with a wonderful large swimming pool and saunas. The rooms are large and a bit bland, but it's a quiet location and a popular spot with business travellers.

Petrograd & Vyborg Sides

SovremenikHOTEL$

(Современник MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-312 9339; www.artefact-hotel.ru; ul Kronverskaya 1; dm/d/tr/q R790/2900/4300/4800; aW; mGorkovskaya)

This small, cheerfully decorated mini-hotel has nine rooms tucked inside an apartment building a short stroll from Alexandrovsky Park. It's a colourful, somewhat whimsically decorated place, with repurposed bird cages, hats turned into lamps and bold artwork in some rooms. The friendly service and shared kitchen add to the appeal.

Tradition HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-405 8855; www.traditionhotel.ru; pr Dobrolyubova 2; r incl breakfast R9100-13,500; aiW; mSportivnaya)

This charming small hotel is a consistent traveller favourite due to its smiling, helpful staff who really go out of their way for guests. Its spacious, carpeted rooms are comfortable and well appointed with good-size bathrooms and a vaguely antique style.

5Eating

There has never been a better time to eat out in St Petersburg. The range and quality of food available seem to increase year on year, making stereotypes about Russian food now seem like bizarre anachronisms. Petersburgers have well and truly caught the foodie bug, and while little of good quality is cheap in this town, the choice is now bigger than ever.

The following price ranges refer to the average cost of a main course.

€ less than R500

€€ R500–1000

€€€ more than R1000

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LOCAL CHAINS

St Petersburg has a number of home-grown restaurant and cafe chains that are well worth knowing about as they provide cheap and reliable eating options all over town. Chief among these is the now international pie chain Stolle (Штолле; www.stolle.ru), a near-ubiquitous cafe where delicious, moist savoury and sweet pies are available to eat in and take away. Similar and equally numerous is the chain of bakery cafes Bulochnye F. Volcheka (Булочные Ф. Вольчека; www.fvolchek.ru). A couple of other chains to look out for are coffee-and-cake specialists Bushe (Буше; www.bushe.ru) and Baltic Bread (Балтийский Хлеб; www.baltic-bread.ru), which does good sandwiches and pastries.