Around St Petersburg

There are several grand imperial palaces and estates surrounding St Petersburg. Peterhof and the palace-park ensembles at Tsarskoe Selo and Pavlovsk are the best and a visit to St Petersburg is not complete without a trip to at least one of them. Be warned that at the height of summer the endless tourist crowds can be frustrating. Moreover, while Peterhof is the most impressive palace, it’s overpriced for foreigners. Tsarskoe Selo is the best value-for-money day trip.

If your time is short, or you wish to avoid the long queues at the palaces, book yourself into a guided tour of Peterhof, Tsarskoe Selo or Pavlovsk with a travel agency, and make sure that they book your entry ticket for you. Peter’s Walking Tours in St Petersburg can do this for you.

Peterhof Петергоф

%812 / Pop 73,400

Hugging the Gulf of Finland, 29km west of St Petersburg, Peterhof – the ‘Russian Versailles’ – is a far cry from the original cabin Peter the Great had built here to oversee construction of the Kronshtadt naval base. Peter liked the place so much he built a villa, Monplaisir, here and then a whole series of palaces and ornate gardens. Peterhof was renamed Petrodvorets (Peter’s Palace) in 1944 but has since reverted to its original name. The palace and buildings are surrounded by leafy gardens and a spectacular ensemble of gravity-powered fountains.

What you see today is largely a reconstruction, as Peterhof was a major casualty of WWII. Apart from the damage done by the Germans, the palace suffered the worst under Soviet bombing raids in December 1941 and January 1942, because Stalin was determined to thwart Hitler’s plan of hosting a New Year’s victory celebration here.

1Sights

oLower ParkPARK

(Нижний парк GOOGLE MAP ; www.peterhofmuseum.ru; adult/student May-Oct R750/400, Nov-Apr free; h9am-7pm)

One of the greatest attractions outside of St Petersburg is the jaw-dropping collection of gilded fountains, statue-lined lanes, and picturesque canals that make up the Lower Park of Peterhof. Even if you'd rather not brave the crowds to visit the palace, it's still well worth a visit here, to see its over-the-top Grand Cascade ( GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun May-Oct) and other water features, including trick fountains that douse unsuspecting visitors.

oGrand PalacePALACE

(Большой дворец GOOGLE MAP ; www.peterhofmuseum.ru; ul Razvodnaya; adult/student R700/400, audio guide R600; h10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed last Tue of month)

The Grand Palace is an imposing building, although with just 30-something rooms, it is not nearly as large as your typical tsarist palace. From the start of June to the end of September it is open to foreign tourists only between noon and 2pm, and again from 4.15pm to 5.45pm (to 7.45pm on Saturdays), due to guided tours being only in Russian at other times (it is quite possible to leave your group, however).

While Peter’s palace was relatively modest, Rastrelli grossly enlarged the building for Empress Elizabeth. Later, Catherine the Great toned things down a little with a redecoration, although that’s not really apparent from the glittering halls and art-filled galleries that are visible today. All the paintings, furniture and chandeliers are original, as everything was removed from the premises before the Germans arrived in WWII. The Chesme Hall is full of huge paintings of Russia’s destruction of the Turkish fleet at Çesme in 1770. Other highlights include the exquisite East and West Chinese Cabinets, the Picture Hall and Peter’s Study. The Throne Room is the biggest in the palace, with Peter's red velvet throne as centrepiece, while the Picture Hall lives up to its name, with hundreds of portraits crowding its walls.

After WWII, Peterhof was largely left in ruins. Hitler had intended to throw a party here when his plans to occupy the Astoria Hotel were thwarted. He drew up pompous invitations, which obviously incensed his Soviet foes. Stalin’s response was to pre-empt any such celebration by bombing the estate himself, in the winter of 1941–42, so it is ironic but true that most of the damage at Peterhof occurred at the hands of the Soviets. What you see today is largely a reconstruction; the main palace was completely gutted and only a few of its walls were left standing.

Park AlexandriaPARK

(Парк Александрия GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R300/200; h9am-10pm)

Even on summer weekends, the rambling and overgrown Park Alexandria is peaceful and practically empty. Built for Tsar Nicholas I (and named for his tsarina), these grounds offer a sweet retreat from the crowds. Originally named for Alexander Nevsky, the Gothic chapel ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R300/200; h10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun) was completed in 1834 as the private chapel of Nicholas I. Nearby is the cottage (Коттедж GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R500/300; h10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun) that was built around the same time as his summer residence.

PETERHOF TICKETS & OPENING HOURS

Inexplicably, many museums within the Peterhof estate have different closing days, although all the buildings are open from Friday to Sunday. With the exception of the Grand Palace, most buildings are open only at weekends between October and April, and some are closed entirely out of season. In any case, it’s extraordinarily expensive to see all the attractions from the inside, as they each charge separate hefty admission fees, plus an extra ticket to take photographs or videos – on top of which you’re paying at least 75% more than locals. There are some joint tickets to several sights, which save you something, but sadly there's no general ticket available. Nearly all tours and posted information is in Russian, so it’s worth investing in an information booklet, available at the kiosks near the entrances.

The lovely Upper Garden is free. Admission to the Lower Park is payable at the cash booths on the jetty and outside the gates leading to the Grand Cascade. There's no re-entering the park; if you leave the grounds, you'll have to purchase another ticket to get back in.

4Sleeping & Eating

New Peterhof HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-319 1010; www.new-peterhof.com; Sankt Peterburgsky pr 34; s/d from R5000/5900; Ws)

This impressive hotel complex has 150 rooms in an unusually designed building near Peterhof's Upper Garden. Rooms are modern and sleek with all the amenities you'd expect, and the best have photogenic views of the Peter and Paul Church.

Shtandart RestaurantRUSSIAN$$

(Ресторан Штандарт GOOGLE MAP ; www.restaurantshtandart.spb.ru; Lower Park; mains R590-1300; h11am-8pm)

This large and upmarket restaurant overlooks the Gulf of Finland, just west of the boat dock, with plenty of seating both inside and out. It has a large and meaty menu full of filling but interesting Russian classics.

Grand OrangerieRUSSIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Lower Park; set menus R450-800; h11am-8pm)

This cafe in the orangery is a fine choice for lunch. It gets busy, though, so you may have to queue for a spot. It has a cafeteria-style counter where you can pick out your Russian classics; don't neglect the cake selection.

8Getting There & Away

It’s easy and cheap to reach Peterhof by bus or marshrutka. Marshrutka 300, 424 and 424A (R80) leave from outside the Avtovo metro station, while marshrutka 103 leaves from outside Leninsky Prospekt station. All pass through the town of Peterhof, immediately outside the palace. Tell the driver you want to go ‘vo dvaryéts’ (‘to the palace’) and you’ll be let off near the main entrance to the Upper Garden, on Sankt-Peterburgsky pr.

There’s also a reasonably frequent suburban train (R60, 40 minutes) from Baltic Station (Baltiysky vokzal) to Novy Peterhof, from where you can walk (around 30 minutes), or take any bus except 357 to the fifth stop, which will take another 10 minutes.

From May to September, the Peterhof Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.peterhof-express.com; single/return adult R800/1500, student R600/1000; h10am-6pm) hydrofoil departs from the jetty in front of the Admiralty every 30 minutes from 9am. It’s an expensive but highly enjoyable way to get to Peterhof, and you arrive right in front of the palace. The last hydrofoil leaves Peterhof at 7pm, and the trip takes 30 minutes.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ORANIENBAUM ОРАНИЕНБАУМ

Oranienbaum (Orange Tree), the palace of Peter the Great's right-hand man Alexander Menshikov is 5km down the coast from Peterhof. The buildings are part of the Unesco World Heritage Site, and provide a fine window into Russia’s imperial past. The surrounding park (Музей-заповедник Ораниенбаум GOOGLE MAP ; www.peterhofmuseum.ru; h9am-8pm) is worth a visit in its own right, with beautifully landscaped paths amid the lakes and greenery.

Menshikov’s impressive palace (Большой Меншиковский Дворец GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R400/250; h10.30am-6pm Wed-Mon) underwent a full restoration and reopened its state rooms in 2014. Most of the interiors are restorations of the 19th century ones, so reflect the taste of the various Romanovs who used the palace, rather than Menshikov himself, of whom there is no trace.

Among the other buildings in the park open to the public is the Chinese Palace (Китайский дворец GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R500/300; h10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun). Built for Catherine the Great as her private residence at Oranienbaum, this over-the-top rococo palace, designed by Antonio Rinaldi, is distinctly un-Chinese looking and, in fact, gets its name from its chinoiserie interiors, which feature painted ceilings and fine inlaid-wood floors and walls.

Opposite Oranienbaum's main entrance, Okhota (Охота GOOGLE MAP ; Dvortsovy pr 65a; mains R480-1220; hnoon-9pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun) serves up hearty fare in a traditional Russian environment. It's big on taxidermy for its hunting-themed decor.

Trains from St Petersburg’s Baltic Station (Baltiysky vokzal) to Peterhof continues to Oranienbaum (R81, one hour). Get off at Lomonosov Station and walk diagonally across the little park in front, keep going up to the main road, turn right, pass the unmissable Archangel Michael Cathedral, and you’ll reach the park entrance on your left. Alternatively you can take marshrutky 300, 424 or 424A to Lomonosov (R70) from outside metro Avtovo. Get off at the Archangel Michael Cathedral and follow the park perimeter to the left until you reach the entrance.

Pushkin (Tsarskoe Selo) Пушкин (Царское Село)

%812 / Pop 106,100

The grand imperial estate of Tsarskoe Selo in the town of Pushkin, 25km south of St Petersburg, is often combined on a day trip with the palace and sprawling park at Pavlovsk, 4km further south. It’s a great combination, but start out early as there’s lots to see: Pushkin can easily be a full-day trip in itself.

The railway that connects Pushkin and Pavlovsk with St Petersburg was Russia’s first, opened in 1837 to carry the imperial family between here and the then capital. The town changed its name to Pushkin in 1937 after Russia’s favourite poet, who studied here and whose school and dacha you can also visit. While the palace and park complex's name has reverted to Tsarskoe Selo (The Tsar's Village), the town remains proudly named for the national bard.

Pushkin

1Top Sights

1Alexander PalaceB2

2Catherine PalaceB3

3Catherine ParkC3

1Sights

4Cameron GalleryC3

5Chesme ColumnB4

6Chinese PavilionB3

7Concert HallB3

8Great PondC3

9Grotto PavilionC3

10Palace ChapelC3

11Turkish BathB4

5Eating

12Admiralty RestaurantC4

13DanielC2

Solenya VarenyaC2

14White RabbitD2

1Sights

oCatherine PalacePALACE

(Екатерининский дворец MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tzar.ru; Sadovaya ul 7; adult/student R1000/350, audio guide R150; h10am-4.45pm Wed-Sun)

The centrepiece of Tsarskoe Selo, created under Empresses Elizabeth and Catherine the Great between 1744 and 1796, is the vast baroque Catherine Palace, designed by Rastrelli and named after Peter the Great’s second wife. The palace can only be visited by individuals between noon and 2pm, and 4pm and 4.45pm, otherwise it's reserved for pre-booked tour groups, such is its rightful popularity. The audio guide is well worth taking, as it gives detailed explanation of what you'll see in each room.

As at the Winter Palace, Catherine the Great had many of Rastrelli’s original interiors remodelled in classical style. Most of the gaudy exterior and 20-odd rooms of the palace have been beautifully restored – compare them to the photographs of the devastation left by the Germans.

The interiors are superb, with highlights including the Great Hall, the Arabesque Hall, the baroque Cavalier's Dining Room, the White State Dining Room, the Crimson and Green Pilaster Rooms, the Portrait Hall and, of course, the world-famous Amber Room. The panels used in the latter were a gift given to Peter the Great, but not put to any use until 1743 when Elizabeth decided to use them decoratively, after which they were ingeniously incorporated into the walls here. What you see is a reconstruction of the original that disappeared during WWII and is believed to have been destroyed.

oCatherine ParkPARK

(Екатерининский парк MAP GOOGLE MAP ; May-Sep R120, Oct-Apr free; h9am-6pm)

Around the Catherine Palace extends the lovely Catherine Park. The main entrance is on Sadovaya ul, next to the Palace Chapel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The park extends around the ornamental Great Pond and contains an array of interesting buildings, follies and pavilions.

Near the Catherine Palace, the Cameron Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-6pm) normally has rotating exhibitions. Between the gallery and the palace, notice the south-pointing ramp that Cameron added for the ageing empress to walk down into the park.

The park’s outer section focuses on the Great Pond ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). In summer you can take a ferry to the little island to visit the Chesme Column ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R250/150; h11am-6pm May-Sep). Beside the pond, the blue baroque Grotto Pavilion ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed) houses temporary exhibitions in summer. A walk around the Great Pond will reveal other buildings that the royals built over the years, including the very incongruous-looking Turkish Bath ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; R200; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue Jun-Sep), with its minaret-style tower, the wonderful Marble Bridge, the Chinese Pavilion ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), and a Concert Hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tickets R500) isolated on an island, where concerts take place every Saturday at 5pm.

oAlexander PalacePALACE

(Александровский дворец MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dvortsovaya ul 2)

The classical Alexander Palace, built by Quarenghi between 1792 and 1796 for the future Alexander I, is surrounded by the charming Alexander Park. Nicholas II, the last Russian tsar, was its main tenant and he made it his residence for much of his reign.

The palace is currently undergoing renovation and is closed to the public, with completion due in 2018 at the earliest.

THE MYSTERY OF THE AMBER ROOM

The original Amber Room was created from exquisitely engraved amber panels given to Peter the Great by King Friedrich Wilhelm I of Prussia in 1716. Rastrelli later combined the panels with gilded woodcarvings, mirrors, agate and jasper mosaics to decorate one of the rooms of the Catherine Palace. Plundered by the Nazis during WWII, the room’s decorative panels were last exhibited in Königsberg’s castle in 1941. Four years later, with the castle in ruins, the Amber Room was presumed destroyed. Or was it?

In 2004, as Putin and then German Chancellor Gerhardt Schröder presided over the opening of the new US$18 million Amber Room, restored largely with German funds, rumours about the original panels continued to swirl. There are those who believe that parts, if not all, of the original Amber Room remain hidden away (see www.amberroom.org). The mystery gained traction in February 2008 as attention focused on the possible contents of an artificial cavern discovered near the village of Deutschneudorf on Germany’s border with the Czech Republic. Nothing conclusive has yet been unearthed here, though, so the mystery continues.

5Eating

White RabbitINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Moskovskaya 22; mains R490-870; h11am-11pm; W)

In the centre of town, this pub-like place serves decent fish and chips, savoury meat pies, pesto pasta and lots of other satisfying dishes in a comfy, easy-going environment. Sink into a leather booth, and warm up over a hot meal, followed by tea, while taking in traces of whimsical decor (White Rabbit pays homage to Alice in Wonderland).

Admiralty RestaurantRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-465 3549; www.admiral.gutsait.ru; Parkovaya ul; mains R450-950; hnoon-11pm; W)

The best restaurant in Catherine Park is set in an elegant, brick-walled dining room and features reliably good dishes, including beef cheeks in wine sauce, leg of lamb, and homemade pelmeni (Russian-style ravioli), as well as risottos, pastas and other European selections. It lies on the southeast corner of the lake.

Solenya VarenyaRUSSIAN$$

(Соленья-Варенья MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-812-465 2685; www.solenya-varenya.ru; Srednyaya ul 2; mains R350-850; h10am-11pm; W)

Outside of Catherine Park, this elegant spot makes a fine setting for a traditional Russian meal. Bliny with mushrooms, cabbage soup, and grilled salmon are among the nicely executed dishes. You can also stop in for afternoon tea and snacks after palace viewing.

DanielINTERNATIONAL$$$

(Даниель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-466 9116; www.restaurant-daniel.ru; Srednyaya ul 2/3; mains R800-1850; h11am-11pm; W)

Daniel offers a blow-out gastronomic feast within stumbling distance of the Catherine Palace. Swedish chef Eric Viedgård conjures culinary magic with his seasonally changing menu in an elegant contemporary space with heritage touches.

8Getting There & Away

From Moskovskaya metro station, take the exit marked ‘Buses for the airport’, and then pick up marshrutka 286, 299, 342 or K545 towards Pushkin (R40). These buses all continue to Pavlovsk (R50). Look for Пушкин or Дворец on the buses.

Suburban trains run from Vitebsk Station (Vitebsky vokzal) in St Petersburg, but they’re infrequent except for weekends. For Pushkin, get off at Detskoe Selo (Детское село, R47, 30 minutes) and for Pavlovsk (R54, 40 minutes) at Pavlovsk Station (Павловск). From Detskoe Selo station, marshrutky (R25) frequently run the 500m or so to Tsarskoe Selo.

Pavlovsk Павловск

%812 / Pop 16,200

Less visited than better known Pushkin to the east, Pavlovsk is nevertheless home to a stunning 18th-century royal palace and one of the finest green spaces in greater St Petersburg. It's well worth tacking on a visit here to explore the artfully designed interiors – and a small but first-rate collection of old-world masterpieces – followed by a stroll amid the verdure of Pavlovsk park.

Between 1781 and 1786, on orders from Catherine the Great, architect Charles Cameron designed the Great Palace in Pavlovsk. The palace was designated for Catherine’s son Paul (hence the name, Pavlovsk), and it was his second wife, Maria Fyodorovna, who orchestrated the design of the interiors. It served as a royal residence until 1917. Ironically, the original palace burnt down two weeks after WWII when a careless Soviet soldier’s cigarette set off German mines (the Soviets blamed the Germans). As at Tsarskoe Selo, its restoration is remarkable.

1Sights

Pavlovsk Great PalacePALACE

(Большой Павловский дворец GOOGLE MAP ; www.pavlovskmuseum.ru; ul Sadovaya 20; adult/child R600/250; h10am-6pm, closed Tue, Fri & 1st Mon of month)S

One of the most tragic and mysterious characters in the Romanov royal family, emperor Paul I was intensely disliked by his own courtiers, who eventually strangled him with a scarf. Whatever historians say about him, however, he had great taste, as displayed in this glorious palace, the finest rooms of which are on the middle floor of the central block.

Charles Cameron designed the round Italian Hall beneath the dome and the Grecian Hall to its west, though the lovely green fluted columns were added by his assistant Vincenzo Brenna. Flanking these are two private suites designed mainly by Brenna – Paul’s along the north side of the block and Maria Fyodorovna’s on the south.

The Hall of War of the military-obsessed Paul contrasts with Maria’s Hall of Peace, decorated with musical instruments and flowers. On the middle floor of the south block are Paul’s Throne Room and the Hall of the Maltese Knights of St John, of whom he was the Grand Master.

Pavlovsk ParkPARK

(Павловский парк GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R150/100; h6am-9pm Sat-Thu, closed 1st Mon of month)

You'll have to pay to enter the serene Pavlovsk Great Park just to access the palace, so it’s worth exploring while you're here. Filled with rivers and ponds, tree-lined avenues, classical statues and hidden temples, it’s a delightful place to get lost in. Highlights include the Rose Pavilion (Розовый павильон GOOGLE MAP ; Pavlovsk Park; adult/student R300/150; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun) and the Private Garden (Собственный садик GOOGLE MAP ; Pavlovsk Park; adult/child R250/150; h11am-7pm), with its beautifully arranged flowerbeds and impressive sculpture of the Three Graces.

Bike hire (R300 per hour) is available in several locations around the park and is a great way to explore, as distances are great.

5Eating

PodvoryeRUSSIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-454 5464; www.podvorye.ru; Filtrovskoye sh 16; mains R620-1450; hnoon-11pm)

A short walk northeast of Pavlovsk train station, you'll find this traditional Russian log house on steroids. Huge portions of delicious Russian food are dished up, with a side-order of live Russian music and dancing.

8Getting There & Away

Trains and marshrutky running from St Petersburg to Pushkin continue to Pavlovsk. Marshrutky (R30) frequently shuttle between Pushkin and Pavlovsk; catch one from Pavolovskoe sh ( GOOGLE MAP ) near the southeast corner of Catherine Park, and get off either at Pavlovsk Station Bus Stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) (for entry to the park) or in front of Pavlovsk’s palace ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Gatchina Гатчина

%81371 / Pop 93,000

Far less touristy than the other country palaces close to St Petersburg, Gatchina, 45km southwest of the city, can make for a very pleasant half-day trip. Gatchina is a busy and bustling town, which just happens to also host a tsarist palace and park.

1Sights

In the nearby town there are a couple of interesting churches. The baroque Pavlovsk Cathedral (Павловский собор GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sobornaya; h9am-7pm), at the end of the pedestrianised shopping street off the central pr 25 Oktyabrya, has a grandly restored interior with a soaring central dome. A short walk west is the Pokrovsky Cathedral (Покровский собор GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya ul; h9am-6pm), a red-brick building with bright blue domes.

Gatchina Great PalacePALACE

(Большой гатчинский дворец GOOGLE MAP ; www.gatchinapalace.ru/en; Krasnoarmeysky pr 1; adult/student R300/150, audio guide R200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed 1st Tue of month)

Shaped in a graceful curve around a central turret, the Gatchina Great Palace certainly lives up to its name – its enormous (if surprisingly plain) facade is quite a sight to behold, overlooking a vast parade ground and backing onto the huge landscaped grounds. Built by Rinaldi between 1766 and 1781 in an early classicism style for Catherine the Great’s favourite Grigory Orlov, the palace curiously combines motifs of a medieval fortress with elements commonly seen in Russian imperial residences.

It’s hard to call it beautiful, but there’s no doubt that it’s extremely impressive. After Orlov’s death in 1783, Catherine the Great bought the palace from his heirs and gifted it to her son Paul, who redesigned the exterior between 1792 and 1798.

Inside, the 10 state rooms on the 2nd floor are impressive, including Paul I’s throne room, hung with huge tapestries, and his wife Maria Fyodorovna’s throne room, the walls of which are covered in paintings. Most impressive of all is the White Hall, a Rinaldi creation from the 1770s that was redone by Brenna in the 1790s. On the balcony is an impressive collection of sundials.

Admission covers entry to the palace and all three pavillions in the grounds.

Gatchina ParkPARK

(Гатчинский парк GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)F

Gatchina Park is more overgrown and romantic than the other palaces’ parklands. The park has many winding paths through birch groves and across bridges to islands in the large White Lake. Look out for the frankly bizarre Birch House (Березовый домик GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R50/20; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep), which was a present from Maria Fyodorovna to Paul I. With a rough facade made of birch logs, the interior is actually very refined, with a beautiful hardwood floor made from timber from around the world.

5Eating

There is a cafe in the Grand Palace and a couple of simple cafes in the grounds, but as the place was made for picnicking, your best bet is to bring your own lunch. If you haven’t done so, however, there are a couple of decent options spread out along pedestrianised ul Sobornaya.

Kafe PiramidaRUSSIAN$

(Кафе Пирамида GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sobornaya 3a; mains R255-380; h10am-11pm)

Serving a wide range of traditional Russian dishes as well as pizza, plus delicious cakes and coffees, this cosy place is near the Pavlovsk Cathedral. It's poorly signposted, but is handily located just off pr 25 Oktyabrya.

ChasyRUSSIAN$$

(Часы GOOGLE MAP ; http://cafe-watch.ru; ul Sobornaya 7; mains R450-980; h10am-midnight)

Hands-down Gatchina's best eatery, Chasy is a friendly spot for grilled meats and seafood, and sushi. It's also a fine afternoon spot for a pot of tea and dessert. Look for the clock over the entrance (more timepieces lie within).

8Getting There & Away

The quickest way to get to Gatchina is by bus. Bus K18, K18A and 431 (R100, 45 minutes) run this route from outside Moskovskaya metro station and stop right by the park. Bus 100 (R100, one hour) also runs regularly from Moskovskaya; buses wait outside the massive House of Soviets and stop just short of Gatchina Park. Tell the driver you want to go to the palace (‘v dvaryéts’) – the bus turns off before you get to the park.

There are trains to Gatchina Baltiysky (R102, one hour) from St Petersburg's Baltic Station (Baltiysky vokzal) every one to two hours. The train station is directly in front of the palace.

Kronshtadt Кронштадт

%812 / Pop 43,000

With its grand cathedral, waterfront parks and pretty canal-lined avenues, Kronshtadt makes for a fascinating half-day visit. Aside from taking in one grand neo-Byzantine church and visiting a little-visited corner of greater St Petersburg, this is a fine place for seeing Russia’s mighty naval centre, and getting an overview of the bay on a boat tour.

Within a year of founding St Petersburg, Peter – desirous of protecting his new Baltic toehold – started work on the fortress of Kronshtadt on Kotlin Island, 29km out in the Gulf of Finland. It’s been a pivotal Soviet and Russian naval base ever since, and was closed to foreigners until 1996.

In 1921 the hungry and poor Red Army sailors stationed here organised an ill-fated mutiny against the Bolsheviks. They set up a Provisional Revolutionary Committee and drafted a resolution demanding, among other things, an end to Lenin’s harsh War Communism. On 16 March 1921 the mutineers were defeated when 50,000 troops crossed the ice from Petrograd and massacred nearly the entire naval force. The sailors’ stand wasn’t entirely in vain, as afterwards Lenin did scrap War Communism.

1Sights & Activities

Naval CathedralCHURCH

(Морской собор GOOGLE MAP ; Yakornaya pl; h9am-6.30pm)

Kronshtadt’s key sight is the unusual and beautiful Naval Cathedral. Built between 1903 and 1913 to honour Russian naval muscle, this neo-Byzantine wonder stands on Yakornaya pl (Anchor Sq), where you’ll also find an eternal flame for Kronshtadt’s sailors, and the florid art nouveau monument of Admiral Makarov.

The cathedral underwent a thorough renovation for its centennial celebrations and is now looking breathtaking, both inside and out. Its 75m-high cupola is the highest point in town, and its enormous interior makes its use as a cinema during the Soviet period rather logical.

ReeperbahnCRUISE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %821-382 0888; Middle Harbour; adult/student R550/400; hdepartures 1.30pm, 3.30pm & 5.30pm May-Sep)

From the Middle Harbour beside Petrovsky Park, you can take cruises to various forts around the island, including Fort Konstantin. Several companies offer cruises, including Reeperbahn, with three daily departures in summer.

5Eating

Cafe KashtanRUSSIAN$

(Кафе Каштан GOOGLE MAP ; pr Lenina 25; mains R300-500; h11am-11pm)

The entrance to this charming little place is actually on ul Andreevskaya, a side-street of the main shopping street, pr Lenina. It's friendly and has a wide selection of pub fare as well as coffee and desserts like tiramisu.

Bolshaya CherepakhaRUSSIAN$$

(Большая Черепаха GOOGLE MAP ; www.big-turtle.com; ul Karla Libknekhta 29; mains R400-750; h11am-11pm)

One of Kronshtadt's better restaurants, the 'Big Turtle' serves up salads, spaghetti with seafood, perch fillet with vegetables, and grilled meats. With decent beers on tap, it's also a fine spot for an afternoon drink. It's located a short stroll from the Naval Cathedral – cross the main bridge and continue up Roshalya, where you'll see it on the right.

8Getting There & Away

Catch bus 101 to Kronshtadt from Staraya Derevnya metro station (R40, 40 minutes). Upon exiting the metro, turn hard left and then walk past the marshrutky and trams until you come to a second bus park where the 101 bus begins and ends its route. Alternatively take marshrutka 405 from Chyornaya Rechka station (R80, 40 minutes); exit the station to your left and cross the street to find the stop.

Vehicles heading back to St Petersburg depart from both sides of the large ‘Dom Byta’ on the corner of ul Grazhdanskaya and pr Lenina. From there it’s about a 1km walk southeast to the Naval Cathedral.

With the completion of St Petersburg's ring road, it's now possible to reach Kronshtadt from Oranienbaum, meaning it's perfectly feasible to combine a trip here with a visit to one of the Tsarist palaces.

WORTH A TRIP

REPINO РЕПИНО

Come summer, Petersburgers stream out of the city to relax on the beaches to the north between Sestroretsk and Zelenogorsk on the Gulf of Finland. Between these two towns you’ll find the village of Repino, 45km from St Petersburg. From 1918 to the end of WWII, this area was part of Finland and the village was known as Kuokkala. In 1948, back in Russian hands, the village was renamed in honour of its most famous resident, Ilya Repin.

Penaty (Пенаты GOOGLE MAP ; %812-432 0828; www.nimrah.ru; Primorskoe Shosse 411; adult/student R300/200; hmuseum 10.30am-6pm Wed-Sun, grounds 10.30am-8pm Wed-Mon), the artist's home in his later years, is preserved as a museum. Repin bought land here in 1899, named the estate after a Roman household god and designed the light-flooded house in an arts-and-crafts style. Several of Repin's paintings still hang on the walls and the furnishings have been left just as they were during his residence, which was up to his death in 1930. His grave, marked by a simple Russian Orthodox wooden cross, is in the surrounding park, along with a couple of wooden follies also designed by Repin.

While here also visit the nearby Beach Laskovy (Пляж Ласковый GOOGLE MAP ) and stop for a meal at either Skazka ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-432 1251; www.skazkarepino.ru; Primorskoe Shosse 415; mains R570-1490; h11am-11pm; W), which has an attractive dining room with big picture windows and a terrace – both fine spots for enjoying its nicely executed dishes– or Penaty (Пенаты GOOGLE MAP ; %812-432 1125; Primorskoe Shosse 411A; mains R400-850; h10am-10pm), which serves a good range of Russian dishes and offers a pleasant flower-trimmed terrace.

The easiest way to get to Repino is to take the frequent marshrutky 400 (R105, one hour) that leave from near Finland Station (Finlyandsky vokzal) – cross ul Komsomola, and look for the stop on the right side of pl Lenina. You can also catch bus 211 (R90, one hour) from beside Chyornya Rechka metro station. Be sure to tell the driver that you want to get out at Penaty.

Leningrad Region Ленинградская область

If you have more time, there are several other places in the Leningrad region that can be seen in a day trip or longer from St Petersburg. These including the charming old Finnish town of Vyborg, the sleepy village of Staraya Ladoga and the monastery town of Tikhvin.

Vyborg

%81378 / Pop 78,500 / Time Moscow

This appealing Gulf of Finland provincial town is dominated by a medieval castle and peppered with beautiful Finnish art-nouveau buildings and romantic cobblestone streets. An important port and rail junction, Vyborg is 174km northwest of St Petersburg and just 30km from the Finnish border. It has just about enough to do to justify staying over, but is also an easy day trip from St Petersburg.

The border has jumped back and forth around Vyborg for most of its history. Peter the Great captured it from the Swedes in 1710. A century later it fell within autonomous Finland, and after the revolution Vyborg remained part of independent Finland. Since then the Finns have called it Viipuri. Stalin took Vyborg in 1939, lost it to the Finns during WWII, and on getting it back at the end of the war deported all the Finns. Today the Finns are back by the coachloads for sightseeing and carousing on the weekends.

1Sights

With the exception of Park Monrepo, all Vyborg’s main sights are neatly arranged around a compact peninsula, making it an ideal town to explore on foot.

Apart from the castle, other relics of Vyborg’s Swedish times are found in the squat Round Tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Rynochnaya), which now houses a restaurant; the remains of the 15th-century Town Hall (Башня Ратуши MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vyborgskaya 15), with its distinctive white tower crowned with what resembles a giant metallic wizard’s hat; and the Clock Tower (Часовая башня MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krepostnaya 5), dating to 1490.

oVyborg CastleHISTORIC BUILDING

(Выборгский замок MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zamkovy Island; grounds free, museum R100; hgrounds 9am-7pm daily, exhibitions 10am-6pm)

Rising stoutly from an islet in Vyborg Bay, this castle was built by the Swedes in 1293 when they first captured Karelia from Novgorod. Most of it now consists of 16th-century alterations. The castle contains several exhibition halls, including a mildly diverting small museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; R100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) on local history, but the main attraction is climbing the many steps of whitewashed St Olaf’s Tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) for commanding views over the town (closed for renovations at time of research).

oHermitage VyborgMUSEUM

(Эрмитаж Выборг MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ladanova 1; adult/student R250/150; h10am-6pm)

Housed in a wing of a striking building designed by Finnish architect Uno Ulberg in 1930, this small museum hosts themed exhibitions that are curated from the Hermitage’s massive collection and change every six months. The functional white building, which sits in the middle of an old defensive bastion, is shared with Vyborg’s arts school, which also has a gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ladanova 1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) with regularly changing exhibitions.

Alvar Aalto LibraryARCHITECTURE

(Biblioteka Alvara Aalto; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-24 937; www.aalto.vbgcity.ru/excursion_eng; pr Suvorova 4; guided tour in Russian/English R150/350; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri year-round & noon-7pm Sat Sep-May)

A must-see for architecture fans is the beautifully designed public library, one of Finnish architect Alvar Aalto's iconic designs. After years of restoration, the 1935 building looks lovelier than ever, with painstaking efforts to return it to Aalto's original vision. Handmade bronze-handled doors, circular skylights in the reading room, and elegant birchwood shelves are among the many features. It's still a working public library, open to all (though oddly, it lacks wi-fi).

Call to book a guided tour in English.

Park MonrepoPARK

(Парк Монрепо GOOGLE MAP ; www.parkmonrepos.org; adult/child R200/free; h10am-9pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)

This 180-hectare park facing onto tranquil Zashchitnaya Bay is a lovely place to escape the world for a few hours, if not most of the day. It’s laid out in a classical style, with various pavilions, curved bridges, arbours and sculptures. Bus 1 or 6 (R30, 15 minutes) will get you here from outside the train and bus stations.

Anninskie FortificationsFORTRESS

(Аннинские укрепления MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Petrovskaya ul)

At the southern end of Tverdysh Island is this double line of fortifications, built between 1730 and 1750 as protection against the Swedes and named after Empress Anna Ioanovna. Nearby, on a hill just above the restaurant Russky Dvor, a handsome statue of Peter the Great, erected on the bicentenary of the city’s capture by Russia, surveys the town.

Lenin & Esplanade ParksPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Explore these two central and adjacent leafy parks, separated by Leningradsky pr, to find intriguing statutes and carved trees. At the southern end of Lenin Park is the Alvar Aalto Library, designed by the famous Finnish architect in 1935 and, in the Esplanade Park, the Lutheran SS Peter & Paul Cathedral (Собор святых апостолов Петра и Павла).

2Activities

Boat StandBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; nab 40-letiya Komsomola; boat hire per hr R250-300; h10am-10pm May-Sep)

In the warmer months, the best place to be is out on the water, boating peacefully, with the backdrop of old Vyborg ever at your side. A handy boat stand near the centre of town hires out row boats and paddle boats and can get you out on the water in a hurry.

1Festival & Events

In July, the town hosts the ambitious five-day Vyborg Intelligent Performance (www.vkontakte.ru/vbgpromenade) arts festival, which includes live music, theatre and lectures.

4Sleeping

Vyborg has plenty of accommodation, but the town can get busy on weekends with boatloads of visiting Finns, so book ahead if you plan to visit then. Rates at most places usually include breakfast.

Vyborg HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-950 0201; www.vyborghostel.ru; ul Vyborgskaya 4; dm R600-700, r R1500; W)

Vyborg's hostel has bright, clean and well-maintained rooms that are rather lacking in charm. There's plenty of space, lots of bathrooms, a communal kitchen and bikes for hire, and the location couldn't be better.

Letuchaya MyshHOTEL$$

(Летучая мышь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-34 537; www.bathotel.ru; ul Nikolaeva 3; s/d/apt with breakfast from R2500/2800/4600)

This appealing boutique-style hotel occupies a small, historic building just off pr Lenina. All rooms have bathrooms and TVs, and there's a good on-site restaurant. It's definitely the most atmospheric place to stay in Vyborg, even if it is overshadowed by a large Soviet block of flats.

Victoriа HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-81378 52 800; www.ibc-victoria.com; nab 40-letiya Komsomola; s/d R5900/6250; aW)

An excellent new hotel overlooking the waterfront, the Victoria has modern, comfortably furnished rooms with quality furnishings. The best rooms have scenic bay views. There's also a sauna, fitness centre and rooftop restaurant.

Apart-Hotel UllbergAPARTMENT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-55 417; www.hotel-apart.ru; Leningradsky pr 10; apt R3100-3800; W)

This well-located guesthouse overlooks Park Lenina from its 4th-floor perch inside a handsome 1915 building. It has five brightly decorated, comfy rooms, all of which have mini-kitchens.

5Eating & Drinking

Café RespectCAFE$

(Кафе Респект MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-34 007; ul Podgornaya 10; mains R450-700; h11am-8pm)

This cosy place, with only a few tables and an old European feel, is found on a charming old street in the middle of the old town. It only has a Russian menu, but offers the usual range of dishes such as salads and soups.

ChampionPUB FOOD$

(Чемпион MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Lenina 10; mains R380-790; h11am-2am; W)

This modern pub is full of sporting paraphernalia and has plenty of TVs screening sports and music videos. It's a good place for a cooling pint of Paulaner and a globe-trotting mix of international dishes (pastas, burgers, fried squid), for a meal or snack.

oRussky DvorRUSSIAN$$

(Русский Двор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-26 369; ul Shturma; meals R400-720; hnoon-midnight)

The terrace overlooking the castle and town is an ideal spot to enjoy some traditional Russian dishes like venison with berry sauce. The chef cures his own salmon and you can drink their delicious homemade honey and horseradish kvas (fermented rye-bread water). The high-ceilinged castle-like interior is also impressive, though sometimes ruined by blaring Russian pop music.

VkusEUROPEAN$$

(Вкус MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %81378-52 823; nab 40-letiya Komsomola; mains R430-1395; hnoon-midnight)

On the top floor of the Victoria Hotel, Vkus serves up Italian fare like risotto, lasagna and caprese salad, as well as spicy rack of lamb and other filling plates. With wonderful views from the small outdoor deck, Vkus is a fine spot for a drink – though the coffee isn't up to par.

Round Tower RestaurantRUSSIAN$$

(Круглая башня MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rynochnaya pl 1; mains R420-850; hnoon-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat)

On the top floor of a 16th-century tower, this atmospheric and long-running place is a reliable option for traditional Russian cuisine, although it can sometimes be booked out by tour groups.

Kafe KrendelCAFE

(Кофейня Крендель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Severny Val 3; h9.30am-8.30pm)

Near the Old Town Hall, Kafe Krendel is a charming little spot for coffee, pastries, quiche and desserts – including an excellent house-made carrot cake. In the summer, the tables on the square are a fine place to enjoy the relaxed vibe of Vyborg.

Central MarketMARKET$$

(Центральный рынок MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rynochnaya pl; h8am-6pm)

Pull together supplies for a picnic from the Central Market just north of the Round Tower. From Thursdays to Sundays there's also a small craft market held on the square in front.

8Information

Vyborg Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %905-210 5555; www.vyborg-info.ru; Vokzalnaya ul 13; h9am-5pm)

8Getting There & Away

The bus and train stations are opposite each other on Vokzalnaya pl.

Boat

ASaimaa Travel (www.saimaatravel.fi) arranges visa-free cruises (one/two days from €63/118 per person) from Lappeenranta in Finland to Vyborg.

Bus

Services to/from St Petersburg (R280, to/from either metro stations Devyatkino or Parnas) run every 20 minutes from 6.30am to 8pm. Theoretically, travel time is around 2¼ hours, but the traffic can lengthen this, so the train remains the best option.

Train

Elektrichki (R301, 2½ hours, hourly) leave from St Petersburg’s Finland Station (Finlyandsky vokzal). Of these, there are also a handful of express services (R331, 1¼ hours, four daily), or the far more expensive Helsinki-bound trains, which stop in Vyborg (R2236, one hour).

Staraya Ladoga

%81363 / Pop 3200 / Time Moscow

Although you’d hardly guess it now, this tranquil village, 125km east of St Petersburg on the winding banks of the Volkhov River, lays claim to being Russia’s first capital. The idea of this place being a 'capital' of anywhere is quite extraordinary, though, and today you’ll find an ancient fortress, several churches and some prettily painted wooden cottages. It makes for a pleasant escape from St Petersburg, particularly in summer, when a swim in the river adds to the charm.

The town was known simply as Ladoga until 1704, when Peter the Great founded Novaya (New) Ladoga to the north as a transfer point for the materials arriving to build St Petersburg. Protected as a national reserve, the town’s basic layout has remained virtually unchanged since the 12th century, give or take a few ugly Soviet blocks.

RUSSIA’S ANCIENT CAPITAL

Just as the origins of Rus are continually debated, so is Staraya Ladoga’s status as ‘Russia’s first capital’. Nevertheless, its age (historians have given 753 as the village’s birth date) and significance remain uncontested.

When the Scandinavian Viking Rurik, along with his relatives Truvor and Sineus, swept into ancient Russia in 862, he built a wooden fortress on the Volkhov River and made this his base. Rurik is depicted in a colourful mosaic on the side of the village school. Locals also claim that one of the tumuli (Урочище Сопки) at the north end of the village is the grave of Oleg, Rurik’s successor.

Archaeological expeditions continue to uncover a wealth of information about the town’s past. In 1997 a second 9th-century fortress was discovered 2km outside the village. Evidence of Byzantine influences in the frescoes of the village’s 12th-century churches point to the town as a cultural as well as historical and commercial crossroads.

1Sights

Everything of interest lies along the main road that runs parallel to the river.

Staraya Ladoga FortressHISTORIC SITE

(Староладожская крепость GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R150/free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Towards the southern end of the village, and with an excellent view along the river, the 7m-thick walls and stout towers of this fortress are slowly being rebuilt. Inside the grounds you’ll find the small stone St George’s Church (Георгиевская Церковь GOOGLE MAP ; 9am-6pm; hMay-Oct), only open May to October in order to protect the remains of the delicate 12th-century frescoes still visible on its walls, and the cute wooden Church of Dimitry Solun.

The Vorotnaya Tower houses the good Historical-Architectural & Archaeological Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun), which displays an interesting retrospective of the area’s history, including a scale model of how the fortress once looked and items found on archaeological digs, with English explanations.

Visiting this soulful old place and wandering around its crumbling ramparts is a unique experience and you might feel you're in a Tarkovsky film.

Svyato-Uspensky Devichy MonasteryMONASTERY

(Свято-Успенский девичий монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; Volkhovsky pr; h9am-6pm)

The women's monastery on the main road in Staraya Ladoga is a remarkably atmospheric place to wander. The small brick church, with its 900-year-old frescoes, is only open on weekends during summer; at other times you can visit the grounds.

Nikolsky MonasteryMONASTERY

(Никольский монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; www.en.nikmonas.ru; h9am-6pm)

This attractive walled complex dates to the 12th century and is still in the process of being rebuilt following its decommissioning during the Soviet years. The main church and bell tower now look quite handsome. Nearby is a pontoon from which you can swim in the river.

The monastery is located about 1km south of Staraya Ladoga Fortress.

4Sleeping & Eating

Staraya Ladoga HotelHOTEL$

(Отель Старая Ладога GOOGLE MAP ; %931-531 9043; ul Sovetskaya 6; s/d with shared bathroom R1700/2200; W)

The best overnight option in Staraya Ladoga is this modest grey-brick hotel, tucked down a lane north of the Svyato-Uspensky Devichy Monastery. Although it looks unpromising from the outside, the rooms are fairly well maintained with sizeable windows overlooking the surrounding greenery.

Mini-Hotel LadyaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$

(Гостиница Ладья GOOGLE MAP ; %81363-49 555; Sovetskaya 3; r R2000-2500; W)

While not looking promising from the outside, this five-room hotel, which shares the premises of the local clinic, has pleasant, contemporary-styled rooms and even a sauna. Only tea and coffee are served, so you’ll have to make your own breakfast arrangements.

Knyaz RurikRUSSIAN$$

(Князь Рюрик GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kultury 7; mains R285-520; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

Rurik’s family tree is painted across the brick wall of this small, nicely designed restaurant, which displays ye olde local shields as decoration. Portions of mushroom soup, bliny, salad and shashlyk are small but tasty.

8Getting There & Away

Elektrichki to Volkhov (the Volkhovstroy I station) depart from both St Petersburg’s Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations (R300, 2½ hours, 20 daily). From Volkhov, bus 23 (R48, 30 minutes, hourly) departs from the main bus stop outside the station towards Novaya Ladoga, passing through Staraya Ladoga. Get off when you see the fortress. A taxi from Volkhov costs R320.

Buses to and from Tikhvin also pass near the Yuzhkovo turn-off to the village, so you can combine a visit to both destinations. When you get off at Yuzhkovo, take a taxi (there are usually a couple hanging around to meet buses) to Staraya Ladoga (R250). It's also just as easy to take a train from Tikhvin to Volkhov.

Tikhvin Тихвин

%81367 / Pop 57,900 / Time Moscow

The highlight of this small, quiet town on the banks of the Tikhvinka River is a beautiful monastery established in 1560 by decree of Ivan the Terrible. There’s been a community here since the 14th century, and for thousands of years before that the area formed part of the hereditary lands of the Finnic Veps (also known as Vepsians). Tikhvin is also the birthplace of Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, whose music was inspired by the local nature, folk tunes and religious ringing of bells.

1Sights

Tikhvin Monastery of the Mother of GodMONASTERY

(Тихвинский Богородичный Успенский Мужской Монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; www.tihvinskii-monastyr.ru; ul Tikhvinskaya 1; h8am-8pm)

Rising like a fairy tale across the Tabory pond, this complex is about a 1km walk from the train station straight along Sovetskaya ul. At its heart is the onion-domed Assumption Cathedral, established in 1510, and painted inside, and partially outside, with detailed frescoes. A famous icon of Mary and Jesus said to have been painted by the apostle Luke draws awed pilgrims from across Russia, particularly on 9 July, when a procession celebrates the return of the icon to Tikhvin.

The complex’s nunnery, crowned by a five-spired belfry, is where Ivan the Terrible sent his fourth wife to be confined. Within the walls you’ll also find several museums, including the Tikhvin Historical Memorial & Architectural Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Tikhvinskaya 1; adult/child R120/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), which has interesting displays on the monastery’s history and examples of its religious art dating back to the 16th century.

Rimsky-Korsakov House-MuseumMUSEUM

(Государственный Дом-музей Римского-Корсакова GOOGLE MAP ; %81369-51 509; ul Rimskogo-Korsakova 12; adult/child R110/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This early-19th-century wooden house was the composer’s childhood home until the age of 12. It became a museum in 1944, the centenary of Rimsky-Korsakov’s birth, and the rooms have been reconstructed to look as they would have done when his family was living there. The charming guides will point out all the original features, including a Becker grand piano on which concerts are sometimes given (call for details).

There’s a stone bust of the composer on a plinth in the small park next to the house. Opposite is the tiny Church of All Saints Polkovaya (Церковь Всех Святых “Полковая”), which also sometimes hosts concerts.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostel NochlezhkaGUESTHOUSE$

(Хостел Ночлежка GOOGLE MAP ; %931-284 3404; ul Sovetskaya 3B; dm/s/d R600/1500/2000; aW)

A short stroll from the train station, this pleasant new option has a few small, simply furnished rooms and a facade that evokes the old countryside with its log cabin exterior. The best rooms have small balconies.

PodvoryeHOTEL$$

(Подворье GOOGLE MAP ; %81367-51 330; www.podworie.ru; ul Novgorodskaya 35; s/d with breakfast R2600/3200; W)

The interior of this small hotel emulates a log house, with spacious clean rooms that are thickly carpeted. Its adjoining restaurant is the place in town for a meal, with a menu of mainly Russian dishes (R320 to R650).

VerizhitsaHOTEL$$

(Верижица GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-975 4433; www.verizhitsa.ru; Smolensky Shlyuz; d/q R5500/9900; W)

This appealing complex of wooden log cabins (some of which accommodate up to six people) has a leafy forest setting 5km east of Tikhvin. The cabins are comfortable and there’s a restaurant (mains R350 to R760) and traditional-style banya (extra fee), plus free bikes (and ping pong!) for guests. A taxi from Tikhvin costs around R250.

ChainayaCAFE$

(Чайная GOOGLE MAP ; Tikhvin Monastery of the Mother of God; meals around R300; h9am-8pm)

In the monastery grounds, you’ll find this simple canteen, serving delicious bliny, soups, fish rissoles, homemade pelmeni (Russian-style ravioli) and kvas (fermented rye drink). In summer you can enjoy your refreshments on an outdoor terrace.

IstoriyaRUSSIAN$$

(История GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sovetskaya 62; Mains R460-840; hnoon-midnight)

Restaurant 'History' boasts country charm on the inside, with heavy wooden tables and chairs and old photos of Tikhvin on the walls. The cooking is decent, with Russian classics like pelmeni and borscht, plus grilled fish and pastas made in-house.

It's located just before the turnoff to the monastery.

8Getting There & Away

The town is on the rail route to Vologda and Arkhangelsk, so you could break your journey to or from either of those destinations here.

Tikhvin’s bus and train stations are opposite each other on Vokzalny per. Trains here leave from St Petersburg’s Ladozhsky vokzal (platskart/kupe R670/1150, three to four hours, six daily). Bus 860 goes four times a day from St Petersburg's bus station to Tikhvin (R400, 4½ hours). The last departure from Tikhvin back to St Petersburg is around 5pm.

To travel to Staraya Ladoga, there is no direct service. By train you can travel from Tikhvin to Volkhov (1½ to two hours, from R550, eight daily), and hop on an onward bus (R48, 30 minutes) or taxi (R330) into town.