Russian Caucasus

Rostov-on-Don

Starocherkasskaya

Krasnodar

Sochi

Adler

Krasnaya Polyana

Mineralnye Vody

Pyatigorsk

Kislovodsk

Dombay & Teberda

Arkhyz

Nalchik

Elbrus Area

Russian Caucasus

Why Go?

For most Russians, the word Caucasus (Кавказ) summons up images of fiery mountain folk, the high-tempo lezginka dance and volatile regions such as Chechnya. But there's more to this ethnically diverse part of Russia than the stereotypes and the horror stories. Visitors to this area come to experience relaxing spa towns, breathtaking scenery and world-class ski resorts.

On top of that, there's superb trekking and horse riding amid soaring peaks, white-water rafting and paragliding, as well as the chance to climb Mt Elbrus, Europe’s highest mountain. Black Sea resort towns offer sun and sea, and festive nightlife, while the Caucasus also boasts its own regional cuisines.

For anyone looking to get off the tourist trail, the Caucasus offers wide-open spaces, bustling markets and rugged mountain roads with stunning views around every corner.

When to Go

AJan Ski season reaches its peak in resorts such as Krasnaya Polyana, Arkhyz, Dombay and Elbrus.

AMay Enjoy sunny days and lower prices at Black Sea resorts and spa towns.

AJun-Sep Best time for climbing and hiking in the mountains. Peak season on the Black Sea.

Best Places to Eat

A 5642 Vsota

A Daki

A Kupol

A Frapp

A Dok

A Chyo? Kharcho!

Best Places to Stay

A LEAPrus 3912

A Black Point Hostel

A Hostel Zhit' prosto Pyatigorsk

A Sanremo

A Park City Rose

A Hostel Bla Bla

Russian Caucasus Highlights

1 Sochi Strolling along the lively promenade of this post-Olympic Black Sea resort.

2 Krasnaya Polyana Soaking up stunning mountain scenery and checking out the Olympic ski slopes.

3 Zelenaya Roscha Walking in the footsteps of Stalin at the Soviet dictator's former dacha.

4 Dombay Marvelling at the chiselled snow-capped peaks and glaciers of the Greater Caucasus range.

5 Mt Elbrus Riding the gondola up Europe’s highest peak for breathtaking views.

6 Kislovodsk Exploring beautiful Kurortny Park and drinking the Narzan spring waters in this relaxing spa town.

7 Cherek Valley & Upper Balkaria Hiking among the ruins of 18 Balkar villages in the spectacularly scenic Cherek Valley.

8 Pyatigorsk Following the footsteps of the 19th-century writer Lermontov around this attractive mineral resorts spa.

9 Starocherkassk Attending the boisterous monthly fair in this old Cossack town.

History

The Caucasus has stood at the crossroads of Asian and European cultures since the Bronze Age. The result is an extraordinary mix of races with three main linguistic groups: Caucasian, Indo-European and Turkic. The region has suffered many invasions and occupations, having been squeezed between rival Roman, Byzantine, Persian, Arab, Ottoman and Russian empires.

The earliest human traces in the Russian Caucasus date from Neolithic times, when farming was replacing hunting and gathering. The first communities evolved in Dagestan’s valleys around the same time as agriculture developed in West Asia and China, establishing this region as an early cradle of civilisation.

The first dominant state was created by the Alans, ancestors of modern Ossetians. It blossomed during the 10th century AD and, at its peak, ruled most of the northern Caucasus. The Alans were Christians, probably having been introduced to the religion by the Georgians. The Alan state was conquered by the Mongol Tatar invasions of the early 13th century with nearly all remnants destroyed by the army of Timur (Tamerlane) in 1395.

The Russians Arrive

Russian adventurers and serfs escaping their masters had already settled in the lower Terek River region when Russian military power arrived here in the late 1500s. In 1696 Peter the Great captured the Turkish stronghold of Azov and expanded imperial influence southward.

Later, Catherine the Great began the subjugation of the Caucasus in earnest, assisted by the area’s Cossacks. The campaign picked up steam in the early 1800s as the Caucasus became a strategically important region in the so-called 'Great Game' being played out between Russia and England.

In 1816 General Yermelov, a veteran of the Napoleonic Wars, began a ruthless campaign to pacify the mountain peoples. The predominantly Muslim populace resented this intrusion by European and Christian Russians, and bitter guerrilla-type warfare ensued, led by the Cherkess (Circassians) in the north and the legendary Dagestani leader Imam Shamil further south. Shamil united Dagestani and Chechen tribes for a 30-year fight against the Russians that ended with Shamil’s surrender in 1859.

THE CIRCASSIAN MASSACRE

One of the great tragedies of the 19th century – the complete ethnic cleansing of all Muslim peoples from the Black Sea coast and surrounding areas – is all but forgotten today and remains unacknowledged by the Russian government.

Following their surrender to the Russians in 1864, the Circassians were given a choice: leave the mountains and move to the far-off plains, or leave the country. According to 19th-century Russian historian Adolf Berzhe, some 400,000 Circassians were killed, nearly 500,000 forced to flee to Turkey, and only 80,000 permitted to settle elsewhere in Russia. Along with those who fled earlier, however, the total estimated number of expelled or slaughtered is believed to be far higher.

Today, descendants of the Circassians can be found in Turkey, Kosovo, Syria, Jordan and Israel – though you will find no trace of them in the resort towns along the Black Sea, their former ancestral homeland. Oliver Bullough's excellent book, Let Our Fame Be Great, explores the history of the region.

The Soviet Era

During the October Revolution, many tribes united to form the Mountain Republic. Independence lasted until 1921, when Soviet forces overran the Caucasus. Soviet policy was to divide and rule by creating small autonomous regions, often combining two totally different nationalities. The Muslim-dominated portion of the Caucasus was split into five autonomous regions: Dagestan, Adygeya, Chechnya, Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia.

In 1944 Stalin ordered the mass deportation of Balkar, Chechen, Ingush and Karachay peoples to Central Asia and Siberia, on the pretext of potential collaboration with German forces. Khrushchev allowed the exiled groups to return in 1957 but without compensation or repossession of their property. The Soviet regime smothered any potential conflict caused by this injustice, but the situation changed quickly after the collapse of the USSR in 1991.

Post-Soviet Era

The sudden split of the Soviet Union triggered a spark in ethnic hostilities, as long-suppressed grudges and rivalries bubbled to the surface of the newly independent Russia. Chechnya witnessed two devastating wars (1994-96 and 1999-2000), as federal troops battled a mixture of secular separatists and Islamist fighters, with multiple atrocities committed by both sides. The violence frequently spilled over into other North Caucasus republics, including the tragic Beslan school siege in North Ossetia in 2004, Russia's worst-ever terrorist atrocity. In 2005 separatist Chechen guerrillas, led by the late warlord Shamil Basayev, launched multiple attacks on police and military posts in Kabardino-Balkaria’s capital, Nalchik.

The violence in the North Caucasus was becoming increasingly jihadist in nature. In October 2007 veteran Chechen militant Doku Umarov was named emir of the 'Caucasus Emirate', a purported Islamic state that would span much of the region. Using the North Caucasus as their base, Umarov's followers launched a series of bloody attacks on Moscow and other cities in the Russian heartland. In 2011, three tourists from Moscow were killed en route from Mineralnye Vody airport to a ski resort in the Mt Elbrus area.

Today, although the northern Caucasus remains a volatile, occasionally violent region, there are indications that the security situation is improving. Terrorist attacks are on the decline, and Umarov is widely believed to have been killed during a clash with Russian security forces in late 2013 or early 2014, although details remain hazy. One obvious indication of growing stability in the region was Russia's ability to hold the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi, just a few hours from Chechnya. Despite fears the Games would be targeted by militant fighters, the Olympics passed peacefully.

Kuban Steppe

From Rostov-on-Don, the overland routes to the northern Caucasus and the Black Sea coast cross the Kuban Steppe (Кубанская Степь), named after its river flowing from Mt Elbrus into the Sea of Azov. The region is an important agricultural centre and is often referred to as the bread basket of Russia. It's also the traditional home of the Cossacks, the proud horsemen who helped protect Russia's tsarist-era borders.

Rostov-on-Don Ростов-на -Дону

%863 / Pop 1.1 million / Time Moscow

This pleasant city of green parks and monumental squares, (known simply ‘Rostov’ to locals) is the gateway to the northern Caucasus region, the historical hotbed of Cossack culture and peasant uprisings. It makes a pleasant stopover on the Black Sea coast and a good base for several interesting day-trips in the area.

Nowadays, Rostov is southern Russia’s largest and most cosmopolitan city. Flowing through the city is the Don River, a geographic and cultural landmark. Most famously, the river is celebrated in Mikhail Sholokhov’s novels of the Russian Civil War, And Quiet Flows the Don and The Don Flows Home to the Sea.

Rostov is mostly on the northern bank of the Don. The main east–west axis is Bolshaya Sadovaya ul; the bus and train stations are at its western end. Parallel to it runs the tree-lined Pushkinskaya ul.

1Sights & Activities

Pushkinskaya UlitsaSTREET

(Пушкинская улица GOOGLE MAP )

East of Voroshilovskiy pr, this idyllic promenade is blissfully free of traffic and sprinkled with fountains, sculptures, cafes and restaurants, with outdoor seating and music-playing buskers during the summer. It's particularly enticing at its eastern end, between the university and the October Revolution Park.

Ploshchad SovetovMONUMENT

(Площадь Советов GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Bolshaya Sadovaya ul & Voroshilovskiy pr)

The 'Square of Soviets' is dominated by a colossal monument commemorating the Red Army soldiers who took part in the 1917–23 Russian Civil War. Prior to 1930, the square was home to the Alexandro-Nevsky Cathedral, which you can now see in miniature next to the monument.

Also noteworthy: excellent socialist realist tile work in the perekhod (underground passage) below Voroshilovskiy pr.

Don RiversideRIVER

(Донской берег GOOGLE MAP ; Beregovaya ul)

A statue of And Quiet Flows the Don author Mikhail Sholokhov depicts the writer gazing thoughtfully at the river that helped make his name. Nowadays, the river embankment is not so quiet, especially on summer nights, when a carnival atmosphere takes over.

Gorky ParkPARK

(Парк Горького GOOGLE MAP ; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 55; c)

Leafy Gorky Park is home to blooming gardens, open-air cafes and plenty of cheerful kiddie rides. An impressive monument to the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution is also nestled into the greenery. When the weather is fine, the park is popular with chess-playing locals, families with children and plenty of lazy cats. Accessible from Bolshaya Sadovaya or Pushkinskaya ul.

Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Ростовский областной музей краеведения GOOGLE MAP ; www.rostovmuseum.ru; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 79; adult/child R120/50, special exhibits R100; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

The centrepiece of the regional museum are the exhibits covering the 3rd century BC until the 4th century AD, when Greek trading colonies flourished at the mouth of the Don. A large display on the 2nd floor is devoted to the Don Cossacks.

Nativity of the Virgin CathedralCHURCH

(Ростовский Кафедральный Собор Рождества Пресвятой Богородицы GOOGLE MAP ; ul Stanislavskogo 58; h8am-7pm)

The lavish, gold-domed neo-Byzantine cathedral, built in 1856, overlooks the central market. If you approach from Soborniy per, it is framed beautifully by the elaborate buildings lining the pedestrian lane.

Don TourCRUISE

(ДонТур GOOGLE MAP ; %863-279 7366; www.dontour.ru; Beregovaya ul 23; 1hr cruise R270-310, Starocherkasskaya cruise R740-790)

Board a boat for a one-hour cruise along the Don, for a relaxing river tour or a party on the water (depending on what day and time you choose). There's not a lot to see, but it's a chance to get out on the river. Don Tour also offers all-day trips to Starocherkasskaya on summer weekends.

4Sleeping

Hostel Bla BlaHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-500 8090, 8-909-899 6565; www.rnd.blablahostels.ru; Boshaya Sadovaya ul 65; dm R450-550, tw/d/tr R1200/1300/1400; aW)

This brand new hostel features spacious, light-filled rooms, friendly management and a smack-dab central location. Dorm rooms (sleeping six to 10 people) have wooden bunk beds with privacy curtains and individual lamps, as well as lockers and the occasional piece of whimsical artwork. There is a comfy common area and a super clean kitchen. Enter through the Fashion House (Дом Мод).

Yakor HostelHOSTEL$

(Якорь Хостел GOOGLE MAP ; http://yakorhostel.ru; Turgenevskaya ul 80; dm/d R500/1400; paW)

On a quiet side street, this little hostel occupies an elegant 19th-century residential building, with elaborate mouldings, ceiling medallions and chandeliers bedecking the common space. The sleeping rooms are simpler, but immaculate, with wood bunks and lockers. Kitchen, wi-fi and parking are available.

oPark City RoseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Гостиница Парк Сити GOOGLE MAP ; %288 8222; www.hotelparkcity.ru; Shaumyana ul 90; s R2900-4200, d R4100-4800; aW)

Located one block south of the main drag, Park City Rose is a boutique hotel with 19 natty rooms and plenty of old-fashioned atmosphere. The rooms are uniquely decorated, but they all feature up-to-date amenities. Attentive service and central location make this under-the-radar spot one of the city's best midrange options.

Hotel AttachéHOTEL$$$

(Отель Атташе GOOGLE MAP ; %299 9888; www.hotel-attache.ru; pr Sokolova 19/22; r weekday R6400-6900, weekend R3800-4100)

In a town where most hotels seem to be super-sized, the Attaché offers a delightfully intimate atmosphere, with 42 spacious and well-appointed rooms in an elegant 19th-century building. Soundproof windows, light-blocking shades and orthopedic mattresses ensure a good night's sleep. Note the substantial savings on weekends.

Don PlazaHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %863-263 9052; www.don-plaza.ru; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 115; s/d from R4900/5900; aiW)

Now operated as a Hyatt Regency, this massive, remodelled, Soviet-style high-rise is one of several international business-class hotels in the city. As expected, its rooms are spacious, modern and well-equipped, also offering lovely city and river views. Prices include a generous breakfast.

5Eating

Bulochnaya No 5BAKERY$

(Булочная Номер 5 GOOGLE MAP ; Soborniy per 28; pastries R40-60; h8am-9pm)

It smells like heaven in this friendly little bakery and sweet shop, featuring loaves of freshly baked bread, piles of pastries and impressive sweet and savoury pies. It's worth sticking your nose in to get a whiff of the goodness.

SmetanaRUSSIAN, UKRAINIAN$

(Сметана GOOGLE MAP ; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 80; mains R200-350, lunch R250; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; aW)

Get your fix of pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat) and vareniki (ravioli-like dumplings) and other Russian and Ukrainian favourites, all expertly prepared and presented. The bi-level setting is comfortable and cosy – reminiscent of a family home – with several different rooms to choose from. Very popular lunchtime spot.

Zolotoy KolosCAFE$

(Золотой колос GOOGLE MAP ; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 43; dishes from R150; h8am-10pm)

Mimicking the grand cafes of Old Europe, this sweet-treat haven is decked out with heavy drapes and chandeliers. It's a popular spot for families to grab a light lunch or to indulge in pastries, ice cream or dessert. Located just outside the gates of Gorky Park.

Shtefan BurgerBURGERS$$

(Штефан Бургер GOOGLE MAP ; www.shtefanburger.ru; Pushkinskaya ul 101; burgers R250-600; hnoon-10pm; aWv)

A speciality burger joint, named after the German chess whiz who supposedly invented the beefy sandwich. This cosy place offers a dozen unusual but tasty burgers (including fish, chicken and veggie options); three kinds of fried potatoes (thin-cut, thick-cut and wedge-cut); and two kinds of draught beer (light and dark). Everybody happy?

Schneider Weisse BrauhausRUSSIAN, GERMAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %863-270 9242; www.kalinich.ru; Beregovaya ul 27; mains R400-800; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

The interior of this German brewhouse offers an appealing blend of post-industrial chic and old-fashioned comfort. The menu ranges from hearty local dishes – many featuring local Don fish – to Bavarian specials straight off the grill. There are eight house beers on tap, which you might sample in the beer garden (of course).

GavrocheINTERNATIONAL$$$

(Гаврош GOOGLE MAP ; %863-229 1169; Pushkinskaya ul 36; mains R600-900; hnoon-10pm)

This warm and welcoming wine bar offers a sophisticated menu with a French twist. Sample one of the delectable patés or steaming soups. The big leather booths are a comfy option, but in summertime it's hard to resist a seat on the breezy porch.

6Drinking & Nightlife

8 ZeryonCAFE

(8 Зерен GOOGLE MAP ; Pushkinskaya ul 158; h9am-10pm)

At the intersection of two leafy pedestrian lanes, you couldn't find a greener, more peaceful setting for this delightful espresso bar. The interior is graced with big windows and lovely flower-painted walls, while there's also seating in a breezy outdoor pavilion. In addition to coffee, tea and fresh juices, there's a small selection of sandwiches and snacks.

Kraft BarCRAFT BEER

(Крафт Бар GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pushkinskaya 135/33; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

This little basement bar evokes a beer garden, while there is also seating on the shady pavement along Pushkinskaya ul. Take your pick from five house brews, two varieties of medovukha (honey ale) or a delicious homemade cider. A small menu of burgers, pizza and snacks is available to accompany your beverage of choice.

3Entertainment

Rostov Musical TheatreTHEATRE

(Musykalny Teat; GOOGLE MAP ; www.rostovopera.ru; Bolshaya Sadovaya ul 134; hticket office 10am-7pm)

This modern and notable theatre presents ballet and opera between September and June.

8Getting There & Away

Air

For the two-hour flight from Rostov to Moscow, Aeroflot has flights into Sheremetyevo (from R6500, six daily), while Rossiya Airlines flies into Vnukovo (from R5000, two daily). Rossiya also flies to St Petersburg (R8000, 2½ hours) once a day.

Boat

Don Tour runs teplokhody (passenger boats) to Starocherkasskaya at 9am on Saturday and Sunday from May to October, returning to Rostov at 5pm (round-trip R740 to R790).

Bus

From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; pr Siversa), buses go to Krasnodar (R600, three to five hours, hourly) and Volgograd (R1300, six hours, eight daily), as well as longer-distance buses to Astrakhan (R1650, 13 hours, one daily) and and Moscow (R1200 to R1500, 15 hours, four daily). Private express buses also serve these destinations.

Train

Numerous trains pass through Rostov’s main train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; pl Privokzalnaya), chugging north to Moscow (kupe R4200, 15 to 25 hours) and south to Sochi (kupe R2000 to R2500, 7½ to 12 hours) via Krasnodar (R1600 to R2800, three to five hours).

Elektrichki (suburban trains) also trundle to Krasnodar (3¼ hours, two daily) from the local train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; pr Siversa), 200m south of the main train station.

8Getting Around

Buses 7 and 1 and marshrutka 7A shuttle between the airport and the train station via Bolshaya Sadovaya ul (25 minutes).

Starocherkasskaya Старочеркасская

%863 / Pop 5500 / Time Moscow

Founded in 1593, flood-prone Starocherkasskaya was the Don Cossack capital until the early 18th century. Once a fortified town of 20,000, it’s now a farming village with a main street restored to near-19th-century appearance. There are a few historic sights of note, including one fantastic church. But mostly it's a quiet town with an old-Russia atmosphere that offers a real contrast to the hustle and bustle of the modern cities.

That said, it's not so quiet on the last Sunday of the month (May to September), when the village hosts boisterous Cossack fairs, with much singing, dancing, horse riding and merrymaking. There are also annual Maslenitsa celebrations here, with pancakes and traditional games galore, when village residents prepare for the Great Lent fast and to greet the coming spring.

1Sights

Ataman PalaceMUSEUM

(Атаманский дворец GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pochtovaya 7; adult/child R170/130; h9am-5pm)

Once the living quarters of the Cossack chiefs, the Ataman Palace now houses an exhibition that traces the development of Don Cossack culture from the 16th century to the present day. There are some great artefacts, including an impressive 400-year-old sundial and plenty of antique Cossack weapons. Household items, clothing and artwork are also on display. Upstairs is a diorama of Starocherkasskaya, with an accompanying multimedia show (in Russian) about the town's history.

Adjacent to the palace is the 1761 Church of Our Lady of the Don, which was the private church of the Cossack chiefs.

Resurrection CathedralCHURCH

(Воскресенский собор GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sovetskaya)

At the eastern end of ul Sovetskaya, the Resurrection Cathedral contains a soaring golden iconostasis, a baroque chandelier and an unusual floor of metal tiles. Peter the Great took a special interest in the church, and even helped lay the altar brickwork when he visited in 1709. The adjacent bell tower provides a bird’s-eye panorama. Women should wear headscarves inside the church.

5Eating

Cafe StarocherkasskCAFE$$

(Кафе Старочеркасск GOOGLE MAP ; ul Begovaya 8; mains R250-500; h10am-10pm)

Set in attractive, leafy grounds, this friendly cafe is a perfect spot to pause for lunch or to wait for your bus. Traditional soups, salads and snacks are on the menu, as are several kinds of bottled beer and Zhiguli on tap.

The cafe also has one of the only proper toilets in town, available for restaurant guests only. That in and of itself is worth the price of a beer.

8Getting There & Away

The most pleasant way to get to Starocherkasskaya is on a boat tour, run by Don Tour from Rostov. These typically run on Saturday and Sunday, from May to early October, setting off from Rostov at 9am and returning at 5pm (R740 to R790). Otherwise, it’s marshrutka 151 (R65, one hour, hourly) from pl Karla Marksa in Rostov. Buses depart Rostov at the top of the hour; the last return service is at 5.45pm.

Krasnodar Краснодар

%861 / Pop 745,000 / Time Moscow

When Catherine the Great travelled south to tour the lands conquered from the Turks, her lover Potemkin had cheerful facades erected along her route. The goal was to hide the mud-splattered hovels that made up the newly founded city bearing her name, Yekaterinodar (‘Catherine’s Gift’).

It's been a long time since Krasnodar has needed those facades. Today, its lively centre boasts pleasant streets lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. Tsarist-era buildings give parts of the city an elegant, European appearance that have earned it the sobriquet 'Little Paris'. There isn't a great deal to do in the city, but it's delightful for a short visit.

The road from Rostov-on-Don feeds into the northern end of Krasnaya ul, Krasnodar’s 2km-long leafy colonnade of a main street. Train and bus stations are about 2km to the southeast, just north of the Kuban River, which snakes around the city’s southern and western flanks.

1Sights & Activities

oFelitsyn MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Фелицына GOOGLE MAP ; www.felicina.ru; Gimnazicheskaya ul 67; adult/child R250/120, special exhibits R100-200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

This is an excellent little regional museum, located a few steps from Krasnaya ul. Exhibits feature some impressive archaeological finds; Cossack history and the Russian Civil War are also well covered. If you made it to Krasnodar, this is it.

Kovalenko Art MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kovalenomuseum.ru; Krasnaya ul 13; adult/child R250/120; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Thu)

The region's oldest art museum, the Kovalenko's collections span the ages, from 'Old Rus' to post-Soviet periods. The building – the historic Shardonov house – is a work of art in itself.

Statue of Catherine the GreatMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Postovaya ul & Krasnaya ul)

An elaborate statue of Catherine the Great – with lute-strumming Cossacks and Potemkin at her heels – lords over an attractive park at the southern end of Krasnaya ul. There are fine old buildings in the side streets east of here.

Dog Capital SculptureMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Mira 35)

This unusual sculpture, on the corner of central ul Krasnaya, features two elegantly dressed dogs out for a stroll. It was inspired by a quip by famed Soviet-era poet Vladimir Mayakovsky, who dubbed Krasnodar a 'canine capital' due to the number of dogs in the city.

Museum of the Weapons of VictoryMUSEUM

(Музей оружия Победы GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krasina 2; hindoor exhibit 10am-5.30pm Wed-Sun, outdoor exhibit 24hr)F

Located by the river in Victory Park (Парк имени 30-летия Победы GOOGLE MAP ; Beregovaya ul; h24hr), this open-air museum's display of WWII tanks and rocket launchers conjures up images of Soviet-era military parades. Kids love to clamber all over the tanks. There's also a small indoor exhibit highlighting local contributions to the WWII victory.

RiverboatsCRUISE

(Теплоходы GOOGLE MAP ; %861-211 1156; Kubanskaya nab 39; adult/child R250; h4-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun)

Cruise along the Kuban River in riverboat 'Kuban' or 'Don'. The one-hour tour departs from the Kubanskaya nab (on the east side of the river) and goes to Victory Park and back.

4Sleeping

Resting RoomsHOSTEL$

(Komnaty Otdykha; GOOGLE MAP ; %861-214 7344; Vokzalnaya pl; dm/s/d R1100/1500/2200)

On the 3rd floor of the train station, the 'resting rooms' are basic but immaculate. It's a fine option if your stay is short.

Hotel PlatanHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Платан GOOGLE MAP ; %861-268 3007; www.platanhotel.ru/platan; ul Postovaya 41; s/d from R2800/3300, renovated s/d from R3100/3600; naW)

This hotel feels like fairly standard post-Soviet fare, with functional rooms that vary according to their most recent renovation. In short, you get what you pay for; but even the cheapest are satisfactory. The location is convenient to the river and the Catherine the Great monument, one of Krasnodar's stand-out sights.

Hilton Garden InnHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %861-210 2030; www.hilton.ru; Krasnaya ul 25/2; r from R5900; paiW)

From the outside, it looks like a Soviet-era building – and it is, but inside, it's been completely revamped with marble and glass. Sleek rooms feature comfy mattresses, large work areas and contemporary furnishings.

Hotel IntouristHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Интурист GOOGLE MAP ; %861-268 5200; www.int-krd.ru; Krasnaya ul 109; s/d from R4000/4500; aiWs)

This Soviet-era high-rise has been refurbished, now boasting bright, comfortable rooms with oversized windows and sleek bathrooms. For the most part, it feels like a modern, business-class hotel, despite the old-fashioned nomenclature. Friendly reception staff speak English and can assist with all travel arrangements.

5Eating

Krasnodar has no shortage of eateries, many of which are lined up along Krasnaya ul. Self-caterers should head to the central Sennoy Bazaar ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Budyonnogo 129; h7am-6pm) or the Kooperativny Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul Golgolya & Krasnoarmeyskaya ul; h7am-6pm) for rows of fresh fruit, pickled vegetables and dairy products.

Many PelmenyRUSSIAN, EUROPEAN$

(МэниПельмени GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya ul 33; mains R200-400; h10am-11pm)

It's no secret what they do best at this cosy basement restaurant. You'll find more than a dozen varieties of the delicious dumpling, along with soups and salads and fresh-drawn beer. In summer months, there is seating in an enclosed patio.

LuboCoffeeCAFE$

(ЛюбоКофе GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya ul 68; mains R200-400; h8am-10pm; W)

This bright cafe has big armchairs and even bigger windows overlooking Krasnaya ul. The menu is pretty wide-ranging – soups, sandwiches, pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat), pizza, pasta. The warm welcome and free wi-fi make it a great place to spend a few hours if you are waiting for an onwards train. (Pay no attention to that international coffee chain next door.)

YoburgBURGERS$$

(Ёбург GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya ul 42; burgers R250-400; h10am-10pm; W)

This hipster burger joint is all about the irony, from the surprising burger options to the imagery on the wall (Bert and Ernie packing heat, for example). There are more burgers on the menu than seats in the joint.

La CabañaCAUCASIAN, RUSSIAN$$

(Ла Кабанья GOOGLE MAP ; Kubanskaya nab 39; mains R200-400; h11am-1am)

This pleasant riverside cafe is a perfect perch for draining a few beers and watching the Kuban River pass patiently by. The menu features tasty shashlyk and salads, as well as other standard Russian fare. Take your pick from the stylish dining room or the breezy open-air tent.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pitcher PubBAR

(Питчер Паб GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya ul 68-70; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

Craft beer has arrived in the Russian provinces. Sample some of the local brews, such as Rose Bud (scented not with roses but with hibiscus), crafted right here in Krasnodar.

Coffee BibliotekaCAFE

(Библиотека Кофе GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gogolya 66; h9am-midnight)

When we asked about the availability of wi-fi at this stylish cafe, the barista answered, 'We have a somewhat different concept…books.' Bibliophiles will be blissful in this book-filled setting (though we didn't find any titles in English). Coffee drinks are delish, as are the small selection of sweets and sandwiches.

8Information

There are ATMs along Krasnaya ul and in several hotel lobbies.

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rashpilevskaya ul 58)

8Getting There & Away

Krasnodar’s airport (www.basel.aero) is 15km east of town. There are regular direct flights to Adler (from R2500), Moscow (from R4000) and St Petersburg (from R6000), as well as Antalya in Turkey, Erevan in Armenia, and Tashkent in Uzbekistan. Take trolleybus 7 or bus 1 to the airport from the train station (around 50 minutes).

From the Krasnodar train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; pl Privokzalnaya), trains go north to Rostov-on-Don (seat/kupe R712/1100, four to six hours) and on to Moscow (from R3300, 19 hours), or south to Sochi (seat/kupe R613/1534, four to six hours) and on to Adler.

The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; pl Privokzalnaya) also has services to Rostov-on-Don (from R550, four to six hours, six daily).

A combined daily train, ferry, bus service (R820,12 hours) takes passengers to Russia's newly annexed Crimea territory during the summer months. At the time of research, tickets were only available at Russian Railways ticket offices in Anapa or Krasnodar, not online.

Black Sea Coast

A narrow coastal strip edges the Black Sea, from where rolling hills ascend fairly rapidly into mountains in the southeast and low uplands in the northwest. This is the Black Sea Coast (Побережье Чёрного моря), Russia’s sole seaside playground (until the Kremlin's 2014 annexation of Crimea). A long summer from June to October gives rise to pleasant weather, plenty of sunshine and a warm sea. Several resort towns dot the sometimes-rugged coast, the best known being Sochi, host city for the 2014 Winter Olympics.

Besides the grey and pebbly beaches in Sochi and nearby Adler, the region offers terrific walking in the Greater Caucasus foothills. Inland, Krasnaya Polyana is a once-sleepy mountain village that was transformed at great expense into the venue for Olympic ski and snowboard events. A new high-speed railway line, built especially for the Olympics, whisks passengers along the Black Sea coastline to Krasnaya Polyana from Sochi's main train station.

Sochi Сочи

%862 / Pop 389,900 / Time Moscow

Gateway to the optimistically named ‘Russian Riviera’, Sochi is a Black Sea resort with a lively boardwalk and glorious sunsets. In summer, coastline nightclubs pump out booming baselines from dusk till dawn. Away from the embankment, magnolia- and cypress-filled parks provide a fine setting for strolling. And just outside of town, the Agura Valley offers easily accessible hiking amid waterfalls and sublime views.

While the sea is warm and the climate subtropical (among Russia’s warmest destinations in winter), Sochi's beaches are disappointingly rocky and grey. You might find (imported) finer white sand at some private beaches in the summer months. In any case, the peak beach-going season (May to September) sees substantially higher prices.

In recent years, Sochi has become most famous as the host city for the 2014 Winter Olympics (even though the events were actually held at the neighbouring resorts of Adler and Krasnaya Polyana).

History

Sochi began life as a holiday resort in the final decades of the 19th century, when wealthy Russians came here to enjoy the sun and take spa treatments. Its development accelerated under Soviet authorities in the 1920s, when they drained the city's malaria-infested swamps and established a nature reserve.

It was during Stalin's reign that Sochi really flourished. Throughout the 1930s, a series of sanatoriums were constructed on the Black Sea coast to provide heavily subsidised holidays to Soviet workers. A typical holiday would have been a month at the sanatorium related to one’s profession, such as the Metallurg (still open for business in today's capitalist Russia) for metal workers. In 1937, Stalin had his very own dacha built in the verdant hills around the city.

In the second half of the 20th century, Sochi continued to vie with Crimea as the Soviet Union's number-one holiday resort. The city's distinctive train station and sea port were constructed in the 1960s, and Sochi served as the backdrop to the immensely popular Soviet comedy, Бриллиантовая рука (Diamond Arm).

With the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the opening of Russia's borders, Sochi lost much of its appeal, as Russian holidaymakers opted en masse for package holidays on the beaches of Turkey and other previously forbidden shores. Sochi continued to attract crowds, but it was a resort on the decline – at least until the economic infusion spurred by the 2014 Winter Olympics.

Sochi

1Top Sights

1Lenin MosaicA2

1Sights

2ArboretumD4

3Art MuseumB4

4Museum of Sochi HistoryB1

5Park RiveraA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Arboretum Cable CarD5

4Sleeping

7BountyB4

8Chernomorye SanatoriumC4

9Hostel LermontovD4

10Hotel MagnoliaC4

11Marins Park HotelB4

12Riverskiy HostelA2

13SanremoC5

14Sochi Breeze Spa HotelD5

15Villa AnnaD4

5Eating

16BrigantinaA3

17BurgmanC4

18Chyo? Kharcho!B4

19DokA3

20FrappA2

21MarinadB4

22PerekrestokC4

23SinbadA2

24Stary BazarA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

25Cabaret MayakA2

26Sea ZoneB5

27StargorodC5

3Entertainment

28Festival Concert HallB3

29Summer TheatreC5

30Winter TheatreC4

8Information

31TAVSB2

32Uralsib BankB1

Transport

33Bus StationB1

34CometA3

35Sea TerminalA3

1Sights & Activities

No more than 10m wide in most areas, Sochi's narrow and stony beaches are dressed up with artificial trees, sunbathing loungers, awnings and private changing pavilions. The main beaches are along Naberezhnaya and in front of Park Rivera. More private and secluded beaches, including some nude beaches, extend south from the city for around 160km. To access these beaches, simply hop on the Krasnaya Polyana–bound high-speed train from Sochi's main railway station. Get off at the Matsesta, Khosta or Izvestiya stations and wander down the coastline.

The snow-capped mountains behind Sochi are visible only from a sea cruise, which may carry the bonus of seeing dolphins. One- to two-hour cruises (R400 to R1000 per person) aboard a variety of vessels (yachts, passenger boats, catamarans, speedboats) leave throughout the day from the sea terminal.

oLenin MosaicPUBLIC ART

(Мозаика Ленина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny pr)

How about this sparkling, red, 8m-high head shot of Ilyich as a backdrop for your holiday photos? This beauty was unveiled in 1980 to mark the 110th anniversary of the birth of the father of the Bolshevik Revolution.

ArboretumPARK

(Дендрарий MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-297 5117; Kurortny pr; adult/child R270/120, cable car R500/260; hpark 8am-8pm, cable car 9am-8pm Tue-Sun & 11am-8pm Mon)

On the southeastern edge of town, Sochi’s lovely arboretum is lush with more than 1500 species of trees and shrubs, including numerous species of palm. It's a relaxing place to wander for a while. For a scenic overview, take the cable car (Канатная Дорога Дендрарий MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny pr; adult/child R250/120) to the top and walk back down.

Park RiveraPARK

(Парк Ривьера MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny pr; h10am-1am)

Park Rivera is a small but lively greenscape that's criss-crossed with walking paths and dotted with games and kiddie rides. It's a pleasant place for a stroll, especially if you have kids in tow. Some of the palm trees here were planted by Soviet and Russian cosmonauts.

Museum of Sochi HistoryMUSEUM

(Музей истории города-курорта Сочи MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-264 2326; ul Vorovskogo 54; adult/child R100/50; h9am-5.30pm)

Here's a smallish museum that delves into Sochi’s archaeological history, its maritime roots, its role in WWII and other aspects of its social history. What shines is the space display, with the Soyuz 9 capsule that returned to earth in June 1970 after 18 days in orbit. On board was a local lad, engineer Sevastyanov, and his pilot, Nikoliev.

Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Ҳудожественный музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-262 2947; Kurortny pr 51; adult/child R200/100; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

In the middle of a leafy park, the Art Museum resides in a classical building that’s a work of art in itself. The permanent collection includes age-old icons and paintings from the 19th to 21st centuries, as well as coins and weapons from the 1st century AD.

SOCHI'S OLYMPIC LEGACY

In 2007 Sochi was chosen by the International Olympic Committee as host for the 2014 Winter Olympics. It was a decision that left many scratching their heads in puzzlement. Not only is Sochi better known for palm trees than snow, the city is also within striking distance of the separatist insurgency that devastated nearby Chechnya. Never mind that its creaking infrastructure was far from Olympic standard.

Eager to prove that Russia is a powerful, modern country that can compete on the world stage, the government spent billions in preparation for the big event. Spending soared from an initial estimate of $12 billion to a reported $51 billion – making the Games by far the most expensive Olympics in history. In addition to building stadiums and new hotels, Russia also invested in dozens of infrastructure projects, including new roads, power stations, sewage systems, an upgraded airport and a high-speed rail to connect Krasnaya Polyana with Sochi and Adler. Authorities expressed their hope that the Games would transform Sochi into 'an international-level mega-resort'.

Post-Olympics, the new resort facilities are attracting a steady stream of visitors who are curious to experience the well-known summer sun and newly famous winter facilities. According to International Olympic Committee and the on-line Tourism Review, the years following the Olympic games have seen a significant increase in tourism, mostly by Russians. But it remains to be seen if the increase will be enough to amount to a pay-off on Russia's massive investment.

In any case, 'international-level mega-resort' is still quite a way off, as it's a largely Russian clientele enjoying the world-class facilities. (Not great for the economy, but not bad for travellers.)

For a series of photographs and essays about the selection of Sochi as an Olympic site, check out the Sochi Project (www.thesochiproject.com).

zFestivals & Events

Beer FestivalBEER

The holiday season starts in late May with a weekend beer festival on Naberezhnaya.

Kinotavr Film FestivalFILM

(www.kinotavr.ru)

The week-long Kinotavr Film Festival in June attracts many big Russian film stars and the occasional foreign actor. Screenings inside the Winter Theatre incur a charge, but screenings outside are free.

4Sleeping

Accommodation prices in Sochi rocketed before and during the Olympics. Nowadays, they are mostly in line with other Russian regional destinations, although rates increase by 25% to 50% between May and August. In any season, rates are more affordable in nearby Adler.

For an immersive cultural experience, adventurous travellers might consider a stay in a seaside sanatorium. One week is the typical minimum.

Riverskiy HostelHOSTEL$

(Ривьерский хостел MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-938-454 2054; www.sochivisit.com; Riverskiy per 3; dm R550-600, d R2200; nW)

This friendly new hostel occupies a choice spot just south of Park Rivera, not far from the sea. Two- and six-bed dorm rooms are fitted with new beds, lockers and whimsical murals on the walls. Guests share the common kitchen and two bathrooms (which seem insufficient). No smoking, no alcohol.

Hostel LermontovHOSTEL$

(Хостел Лермонтов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-918-208 0107; www.hostel-lermontov.ru; ul Lermontava 3; dm R500; W)

Here's a sweet retreat for budget travellers. In a quiet residential neighbourhood, this is a tiny hostel upstairs from an interior design shop. In addition to the two- and six-bed dorms, there's a communal kitchen and a charming garden. The whole place is filled with knick-knacks and love. It's a 15-minute walk to the beach.

Sochi Breeze Spa HotelSPA HOTEL$$

(Сочи Бриз Спа Отель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-266 3800; www.sochibreeze.ru; Kurortny pr 72; s/d from R4100/4500; naWs)

The spa at Sochi Breeze includes a Russian banya (hot bath), Finnish sauna and Turkish bath, plus four pools (of varying temperatures) for soaking, swimming or taking a quick plunge. Soothe your sore muscles after spending the day skiing, hiking or strolling the seaside promenade. Rooms are adequate and service is friendly. It's a 10-minute walk to the beach.

MetallurgSANATORIUM$$

(Металлург GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-200 2114, 862-267 2603; www.metallurg-sochi.ru; Kurortny pr 92; r per person incl meals from R3000; Ws)

The grand neoclassical edifice belies the simplicity of the rooms within. This former sanatorium of metallurgy workers offers a slew of medical services, in addition to sand, sea, sport and swimming pool.

Rodina Grand Hotel & SpaHOTEL$$$

(Гранд Отель и СПА Родина GOOGLE MAP ; %862-253 9000; www.grandhotelrodina.ru; Vinogradnaya ul 33; r from R42,000; paWs)

This ultra-swanky hotel – just north of Park Rivera – is the crème de la crème of high-end hotels in Sochi. Forty rooms and 20 villas are fitted with every comfort, from designer furniture to luxury linens. The property includes gorgeous gardens and a private beach.

The property features five different eating options, from a rooftop terrace with views of the Black Sea coast to the Black Magnolia evening restaurant, with its well-stocked wine cellar.

SanremoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(Сан-Ремо MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-227 0888; www.sanremo-apartments.ru; Chernomorskaya ul 13; apt from R11,000; aWs)

We dig the Sanremo for its intimate atmosphere (29 fabulous rooms), prime beachfront location and groovy restaurant-lounge at sea level. The minimalist rooms are spacious and modern, with enormous windows looking out to sea. They have access to a wide shared balcony with lounge chairs, but it's just a few steps to the sand.

A perfect spot for sundowners, the lounge downstairs has indoor and outdoor seating, a tantalising menu of seafood and an overall atmosphere of irrepressible coolness.

Villa AnnaCASTLE$$$

(Вилла Анна MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-240 4830; www.villa-anna-hotel.ru; Kurortny pr 72/7; s/d R4650/5000; aW)

Here's your chance to sleep in a 16th-century Scottish castle. (Ahem.) This place is over the top, with a drawbridge over the koi pond moat and armoured knights guarding the entrance. In keeping with the theme, the 30 guest rooms have thick carpets, heavy drapes and solid wood furniture. The banya complex is particularly atmospheric.

Don't leave without trying to pull Excalibur out of the rock in the garden.

Swissôtel Sochi KameliaHOTEL$$$

(Swissôtel Сочи Камелия GOOGLE MAP ; %862-296 8801; www.swissotel.com/hotels/sochi-kamelia; Kurortny pr 89; r from R12,900; pnaWs)

Another luxury hotel built with the Winter Olympics in mind, Swissotel Kamelia is tucked away from the centre of town, heading southeast along Kurortny pr. Located in a park overlooking the Black Sea, the spacious rooms are tasteful to a tee, with modern decor and wide balconies. If you're not facing the sea, you're missing out.

BountyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-262 2808; www.bounty-sochi.ru; Primorskaya ul 4b; r R5000-9000)

The Bounty is a gem for its small size and personal service. The traditionally decorated rooms lack pizazz, but they are comfortable enough. The place is a block from the beach.

Marins Park HotelHOTEL$$$

(Маринс Парк Отель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %271 3000; www.parkhotel-sochi.ru; per Morskoy 2; r R4400-5600; aiWs)

Step through the glass doors and into the marble lobby, sprinkled with shops. Here you'll find efficient English-speaking service and attractive, fairly priced accommodation. The understated rooms are decorated in light pastels and blonde-wood trim, with big windows welcoming in the light. Located in a quiet area just a block from the seafront.

Chernomorye SanatoriumSANATORIUM$$$

(Чёрноморье Санаторий MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-988-235 8400; www.chernomorye-rzd.ru; ul Ordzhonikidze 27; r per person incl meals R10,700; aWs)

With a convenient central location and an impressive modern facility, the sanitorium of the Russian railway system is one of the best in the area. In addition to the luxurious rooms, there are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts and fitness centre, as well as a banya and sauna.

Hotel MagnoliaHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Магнолия MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-262 0166; www.sochi-magnolia.ru; Kurortny pr 50; s/d from R4700/5100; aW)

Named after the flowering trees fronting the complex, the hotel has 126 brightly renovated rooms with modern floral prints and Ikea-style furniture. The location is smack-dab in the middle of town, though it's a 10-minute walk to the beach.

5Eating

Open-air restaurants line the seaside walkway, known as the Naberezhnaya. This is a good place to sample local Black Sea seafood (including oyster, mussels and pike perch) and Kuban cuisine. For self-catering, visit the colourful Central Market (Центральный рынок GOOGLE MAP ; Moskovskaya ul; h6am-6pm) or the large Perekrestok ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul Uchitelskaya & Kurortny pr; h24hr) supermarket in the centre of town.

FrappBELGIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.instagram.com/frapp_sochi; ul Vorovskogo 5; waffles R245-325; h9am-9pm)

There's not much to the menu at this tiny cafe, but you don't need much – just a choice selection of sweet and savoury waffles, fresh juices and Viennese coffee. Pick a table in the cosy interior or on the shady porch. Service is super friendly.

BurgmanBURGERS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.burgmansochi.ru; ul Ordzhonikidze 26a; burgers R330-600; hnoon-midnight)

Here's your friendly neighbourhood burger joint, touting farm-fresh ingredients and 18 different takes on the ever-popular sandwich. Besides your traditional beef patties, you'll find a veggie burger, a turkey burger, a crab cake and even a shrimp burger (no, we don't mean to imply that it's puny). Soups, salads and beers round out the menu.

MarinadEUROPEAN, RUSSIAN$

(Маринад MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Morskoy per 3; mains R200-500; h10am-midnight; Wvc)

Set in a gracious former residence, the restaurant comprises a series of intimate salons (and a lovely porch). Dine on traditional Russian fare, including skoblyanki (tasty, hardy meals prepared in an iron skillet). There's a delightful children's play area, so bring the little ones.

Chyo? Kharcho!CAUCASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.che-harcho.ru; Primorskaya ul 3/10; mains R240-600; hnoon-midnight)

This wide, welcoming terrace claims the best shashlyk on the Naberezhnaya, in addition to the namesake kharcho (lamb stew) and other Georgian specialities. It's an exceedingly pleasant place to quaff a beer and watch the action on the boardwalk and the beach beyond.

BrigantinaRUSSIAN, FRENCH$$

(Бригантина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Neserbskaya ul 3; mains R500-1000; h8am-11pm)

This pleasant French-owned restaurant enjoys a breezy location overlooking the harbour, with outdoor tables and a big menu of seafood and grilled meats. Mussels and bouillabaisse are among the highlights.

SinbadMIDDLE EASTERN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/rest.sinbad.sochi; ul Yegorava 2; mains R400-800; h10am-11pm; v)

Opposite the entrance to Park Rivera, this busy restaurant is a lively place for Middle Eastern fare. The kebabs take a central place on the menu, but there's also hummus, lentil soup and other vegetarian goodness.

Stary BazarCAUCASIAN, EUROPEAN$$

(Старый Базар MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-239 2919; Neserbskaya ul 4; mains R300-700; h11am-midnight)

Surrounded by greenery overlooking a small park, Stary Bazar is another established Sochi restaurant that continues to pack them in. And for good reason – the place offers a delightfully kitschy country-inn setting that is perfect for sampling the satisfying menu of Russian and Georgian food.

DokSEAFOOD$$$

(Док MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-928-445 2929; www.facebook.com/dok.bar.sochi; ul Voykova 1, prichal 2; mains R600-1200; hnoon-midnight)

If you prefer your oysters on the half shell, this sophisticated little harbourside raw bar is for you. You'll fine varieties from the Far East and the White Sea, as well as the smaller guys from local Black Sea waters. The menu also features a few other seafood dishes and a good wine list.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Try the English-language www.sochicityguide.com website for club and bar listings. Or just stroll along the Naberezhnaya and feel which way the wind is blowing.

Sea ZoneCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %233 6011; http://seazone.lrgsochi.ru; Primorskaya ul 17; h10am-10pm; W)

Just steps from the sand, Sea Zone is an enticingly upscale venue to relax in and savour the sunset. The covered terrace is tastefully furnished with dark wicker furniture and neutral-toned linens, or you can take a seat in the open air for fresh sea breezes. There's a short menu (including a raw bar) to accompany the cocktails.

Cabaret MayakGAY

(Кабаре Маяк MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clubmayak.com; Navaginskaya ul 3; cover R300-500; h7pm-7am)

Perhaps Russia's most famous gay club, thanks to the massive media attention received during the 2014 Sochi Olympics, Club Mayak is now in a new location near the train station. Inside, drag queens and other performers continue to strut their stuff. Face control keeps out the uncool, so make sure you look your best.

StargorodBREWERY

(Старгород MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-227 0757; www.stargorod.net; Primorskaya ul 19; h11am-1am; W)

Below the Winter Theatre, this large Czech-run brewery offers great views of the Black Sea alongside its own beers and grilled meats. The fried and flavoured dark bread makes a great accompaniment for the house brews.

3Entertainment

Festival Concert HallLIVE MUSIC

(Фестивальный концертный зал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %reception 262 4777, tickets 862-262 2941; www.festival-sochi.ru; ul Ordzhonikidze 5; tickets R350-1500; hbox office 1-8pm)

Many of Russia’s top music acts play in Sochi – most at this massive hall with its front open to the sea embankment below.

Winter TheatreTHEATRE

(Зимний театр, Zimny Teatr MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-262 9616; Teatralnaya pl; hbooking office 10am-7pm)

Built in a majestic imperial style, this massive, colonnaded building would add grace to any world capital. Opera, ballet and drama are presented here.

Summer TheatreTHEATRE

(Летний театр, Letny Teatr MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chyornomorskaya ul 11, Park Frunze)

True to its name, this architecturally striking, neoclassical theatre stages open-air concerts and drama performances during the summer.

8Information

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vorovskogo 1/2)

TAVS (ТАВС MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %862-264 0526; www.sochitavs.ru; Navaginskaya ul 16; h8am-8pm) Efficient air and train ticketing agency.

Uralsib Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Moskovskaya ul 5) 24hr ATM.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Sochi’s airport (http://sochi-airport.com) is at Adler, 25km away. Many airlines fly to Moscow, including Aeroflot (from R5500). In summer there are flights to most other major Russian cities.

Boat

The sea terminal (Морской вокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ul Voykova 1) has various information kiosks with posted departures.

Twice a week in season, the hydrofoil Comet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-918-409 1296; expressbatumi@mail.ru; ul Neserbskaya 5; adult/child R5500/2500; hMay-Oct) makes the five-hour trip between Sochi and Batumi, Georgia. The ride can be very rough and is highly dependent on weather. At the time of research, the route is open only for Georgians, Russians and other CIS nationals.

Bus

From the bus station (Автовокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gorkogo 56a), there is a daily service to Kislovodsk (R800, 18 hours), which also calls at Krasnodar and Pyatigorsk. The faster service (13 hours) originates in Adler and stops at Mamayka station in Sochi.

Train

The Sochi train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gorkogo) was revamped for the Olympics and is looking fabulous. There are services to Adler (35 minutes, R174, frequent) and Krasnaya Polyana (R254, 1¼ hours, six daily). The regular elektrichki stop frequently at beaches and coastal towns along their route, the fast (skory) ones less so.

Heading north, trains stop at Krasnodar (seat/kupe R815/1455, four to eight hours, frequent) and Rostov-on-Don (kupe from R1500, seven to 11 hours, frequent) en route to Moscow. There are many trains to Moscow, but two are significantly faster (kupe R7100, 23 hours, twice daily), and there's one relatively fast train to St Petersburg (R7790, 37½ hours, departs 6.08pm).

Train 644 to Kislovodsk (kupe R3112, 13½ hours, daily) goes via Mineralnye Vody and Pyatigorsk.

8Getting Around

From the bus station take marshrutka or bus 105 (R50 to R85, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes) to the airport in Adler. There are less frequent trains to the airport (R176, 43 minutes). A taxi costs from about R600 to R1000.

SOCHI EXCURSIONS

Stalin's Dacha

This retreat (Дача Сталина GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny pr 120; tours R300; h10am-6pm) at Zelenaya Roscha, is a fascinating place, built specifically to accommodate a small, private and paranoid man. Tours are in Russian but some of the patriotic guides speak a little English. You'll get to see Stalin’s private rooms (with some original furniture), the movie theatre where he checked every film before public release, and his billiards room where he played only those he could beat or who were wily enough to lose. The Stalin portraits on the walls were added after his death. The other paintings are all reproductions, as Stalin believed that artwork belonged to the people and therefore should hang in a museum. The depth of the water in the swimming pool (just 1.5m), the height of the stair treads, and most of the furniture were specially built to accommodate Stalin's small stature (165cm).

From Sochi take any Adler-bound bus and get off at the Zelenaya Roscha stop. Enter through the gates of the sanitorium and walk about 1km uphill to the dacha.

Sochi National Park

East of Sochi centre, the sprawling Sochi National Park (Сочинский национальный парк GOOGLE MAP ; www.sochinp.ru; R170; h10am-6pm Oct-Apr, to 9pm May-Sep) traverses the Agura valley, offering scenic easy-to-access hiking, with rewarding views of nearby mountains and waterfalls. Popular routes lead to the lookout tower atop Mt Bolshoy Akhun or to the evocatively named Eagle Cliffs (Орлиные Скалы). Pick up an Agura Valley trail map at the park entrance.

Near the park entrance Salkhino (Салхино GOOGLE MAP ; %862-238 9111; Агурское ущелье ул 1 mains R400-800) is a suitably rustic Caucasian restaurant. They do a popular khashlama (Caucasian-spiced lamb stew), among many other dishes. There are Kuban dry reds on the wine list, along with Georgian and French vintages.

From Sochi or Adler, take bus 124 or 125 to the Sputnik Hotel skyscraper. From here the entrance is a 1km walk. Follow the road along Agura River until you get to Salkhino restaurant and the entrance beyond. Alternatively, it's a 30-minute walk from Zelenaya Roscha.

Mt Bolshoy Akhun is also serviced by an 11km road, which makes it a popular organised tour from Sochi. A 5½-hour excursion costs around R1500 and includes a stop at the Agura waterfalls.

Vorontsovskaya Cave

About 40km south from central Sochi, this chain of caves (Воронцовская Пещера GOOGLE MAP ; %441-1175; adult/child R350/200; h10am-6pm May-Sep, shorter hours Oct-Apr) is a popular and worthwhile excursion. Some 12km of the cave system is mapped, but tourists have access to 500m of illuminated passages. Some of the rooms are quite spectacular, decorated with stalactites and stalagmites. To get here hire a taxi (about R3000) or join a tour (R700). It gets cold inside, so dress accordingly.

Adler Адлер

%862 / Pop 76,500 / Time Moscow

Despite a grand overhaul of its transport infrastructure for the 2014 Winter Olympics, the Black Sea resort of Adler lacks the nouveau riche affluence and attitude of Sochi, which is 30km to the north. Traditionally a popular destination for lower-income Russian holidaymakers, prices for lodging and food are slightly lower here.

Like other nearby resort towns, the main action is along the promenade (nonsmoking since the Olympics), where you’ll find a wide variety of cafes, a funfair and souvenir stalls. If you're lucky, you'll spot dolphins frolicking in the Black Sea.

1Sights

Sochi ParkAMUSEMENT PARK

(Сочи Парк GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-100 3339; www.sochipark.ru; Olimpisky pr 21; adult/child R1980/1600; h10am-9pm May, 10am-10pm Jun-Aug; dOlimpisky Park)

Located in the former Olympic park, this sprawling funfair is sometimes called Russian Disneyland, with 20 'European-standard' rides (including Russia's highest and fastest roller coaster). There are also hands-on activities and adventures for kids, as well as family-friendly entertainment, such as puppet shows, circus performances and a lights-and-fountains display. Take the train to Olimpisky Park station or take marshrutka 124 from Sochi’s train station (R50). The castle hotel Bogatyr is also on-site.

Discovery World AquariumAQUARIUM

(Океанариум GOOGLE MAP ; www.sochiaquarium.com; Ul Lenina 219; adult/child R700/350; h10am-6pm)

If you're not swimming among the fish, or eating the fish, you might considering paying a visit to the fish in the Discovery World Aquarium, which is a reasonably entertaining rainy-day outing. The highlight is the 44m 'tunnel', which allows you to walk right through the reef and be surrounded by sea creatures on all sides. In addition to the 13 ocean aquariums, there's a fresh-water exhibit, complete with waterfall.

4Sleeping

There are many smallish hotels along the seaside promenade, which is a short walk from the bus station. In season, it's also common for individuals to rent private rooms. Talk to homeowners hanging out in the train station, or just stroll the streets and look for signs that say ‘сдаёться' (rooms for rent).

Arriva HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %862-240 4582, 8-962-885 1859; www.arrivasochi.com; ul Prosveshcheniya 25a; r R3500-4500; aW)

This newish option is small and friendly, offering excellent value right on the seafront. The rooms are spacious and stylish, in a Gothic sort of way. Big windows let in plenty of light and sea breezes, while the balconies facing the water offer sunset views.

Hotel PrichalHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Причал GOOGLE MAP ; %8-988-404 4110, 862-240 4110; www.adler-prichal.ru; ul Prosveshcheniya 7; d R3500-5000; naW)

Rooms at the Hotel Prichal are pretty simple – but who needs fancy when the place is filled with sunlight, fresh sea air and truly positive vibes. The Prichal is a pebble's throw from the Black Sea, so you'll enjoy waking up to the sound of gently (or otherwise) breaking waves. Breakfast included.

AdelphiaHOTEL$$

(Адель­фия GOOGLE MAP ; %8-918-606 6824, 8-988-404 4110; www.hotel-adelphia-adler.ru; ul Prosveshcheniya 13; s R2400-3600, d R3400-5000; aW)

Thirty metres from the beach, Adelphia occupies a striking building with an unusual curved edifice. The 44 rooms are comfortable, if a little formal for resort accommodation. There are fine views from the terrace and from some rooms, as well as a spa and an in-house banya (R2500).

ACBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %862-241 0122; www.ac-hotel.ru; ul Prosveshcheniya 36; d R4500-5500; nai)

This sleek-looking six-storey hotel has 40 sizeable rooms with clean lines, soft tones and contemporary style. It's on the east side of ul Prosyshcheniya (away from the water), but guests in the upper-floor rooms still enjoy sea views from their balconies. There’s a cafe, restaurant and spa, and excellent service all around.

Radisson Blu ResortHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %862-296 8100; www.radissonblu.com; ul Golubaya 1a; r R8000-12,000; naiWs)

One of several hotels built for the 2014 Winter Olympics, the Radisson Blu Resort sits a short distance from the former Olympic Park on the Adler coastline. Rooms are spacious and boast good views of either the Caucasus mountains or the Black Sea. It's pricey, but bargains are available off-season.

5Eating

Dozens of cafes, bars and restaurants line the lively promenade along the waterfront.

Café RadostRUSSIAN$

(Кафе Радость GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karla Marksa 2; shashlyk R140-230; h10am-2am)

Just a few steps away from the seaside promenade, there is a festive, open-air joint serving up cold beer and sizzling shashlyk.

Café FregatRUSSIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

(Кафе фрегат GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karla Marksa; mains R250-500; h10am-midnight)

A vast restaurant with various dining rooms surrounding an inner courtyard. Here, tables surround a gurgling fountain and live music plays on most nights. Big menu of Western and Russian standards.

MayakEUROPEAN, RUSSIAN$$

(Маяк GOOGLE MAP ; ul Prosveshcheniya 35; mains R250-750; h11am-midnight)

Take your pick from the cosy interior, the palm-sheltered courtyard, or the tables right on the pavement overlooking the promenade. They are all attractive settings to sample Mayak's tempting grilled fish and meats (or pizza, if you prefer).

Despite the misleading address, it's located in the middle of the promenade next to the namesake lighthouse.

Royal FishSEAFOOD$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-928-458 9988; www.royalfish-sochi.ru; Bestuzhava per; mains R700-1200; h10am-1am; W)

Tucked away in the far southern corner of the seaside promenade, this classy restaurant offers a good wine list and plenty of local seafood choices, including a raw bar with Black Sea oysters. Other enticing options include vichyssoise with smoked salmon, mussels doused in garlic sauce and salmon fillet served on a hot stone plate.

8Getting There & Away

The main bus stop is near the central market (Центральный рынок GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina), a 1km walk to the hotel- and restaurant-lined seaside promenade. Pick up frequent buses and marshrutky to Sochi (R50, 40 minutes) here or opposite the revamped train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina), which is an inconvenient 3km north of the bus station.

The train goes to Krasnaya Polyana (R190, 40 minutes, seven daily) or Sochi (R176, 35 minutes, 20 daily). Long-distance trains also connect Adler to Sochi, Krasnodar, Rostov-on-Don and Moscow.

A taxi from the airport or train station to the seaside area should cost around R400. You can take a taxi all the way to Sochi for about R1000.

Krasnaya Polyana Красная Поляна

%862 / Population 4600 / Elevation 560m / Time Moscow

A scenic road passing through a deep, narrow canyon leads up from Adler to Krasnaya Polyana (Red Valley), Russia's newly built ski mecca that hosted the 2014 Winter Olympics ski events. The scenery here is spectacular, with snow-capped mountains looming above three world-class ski resorts containing kilometres of high-quality pistes.

Krasnaya Polyana is actually the name of a sleepy village about 40km east of Adler, but most of the action takes place at the ski resorts further east. The undoubted jewel in the Olympic crown here is the Roza Khutor Alpine Resort, which hosted the Olympics downhill skiing events and today offers phenomenal skiing and snowboarding to the general public. The area's highest mountain, Roza Pik, towers over a story-book village that is lined up along the Mzymta River. It's also a wonderful destination for hiking, shopping, strolling around town and gawking at the jaw-dropping scenery. Other excellent resorts and facilities dot the road between Krasnaya Polyana and Roza Khutor.

2Activities

Skiing and snowboarding are the obvious attractions here. But the resorts are doing their best to make Krasnaya Polnaya a year-round destination, offering hiking, horseback riding and river rafting (a very tame version) on the Mzymta River.

The 2687m summit of Mt Fisht (Гора Фишт) is a splendid trek, if you have three or four days to spare. From Solokhay, a rough road leads 20km to the trailhead. From the trailhead it’s 14km to stunning alpine Khmelnovskogo Lake, where you can camp in view of the surreal lunar landscape and spires of Mt Fisht. You’ll need to go with a guide from a company such as Masterskaya Priklucheniy (Мастерская Приключений GOOGLE MAP ; %8-928 292 0596; www.extreme-sochi.ru; Nab Panorama 3, Roza Khutor).

After a day spent skiing or hiking in the mountains, the warm Russian banya (bathhouse) makes a great spot to recover in.

Roza KhutorSKIING, CABLE CAR

(Роза Хутор GOOGLE MAP ; %8-8622-419 222; www.rosaski.com; Alpika; ski pass from R1600, cable car R1350; h9am-4pm)

This world-class ski complex was the largest venue for the Sochi Winter Olympics. It consists of 18 modern lifts and almost 80km of piste catering for all levels of proficiency. For non-skiers (or out of season), it's worth taking a cable car to the top of the Rosa Peak plateau (2320m) to enjoy the stunning views of nearby snow-capped mountains. Even without hitting the slopes, it's possible to spend a half-day hanging out in the pleasant cafes and enjoying the magnificent views.

Gorki GorodSKIING, OUTDOORS

(Горки Город GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-550 2020; www.gorkygorod.ru; Esto-Sadok; ski pass adult/child R1900/1300, cable car R300-1100, bike pass R700-900, adventure park R300-350, water park adult/child R1000/500; h9am-6pm)

Formerly known as Gornaya Karusel, this top-notch ski resort was constructed for the 2014 Winter Olympics ski-jumping events. Today it boasts 12 modern lifts, plus 30km of high-quality piste amid the rugged terrain of Mt Aibga. There are some memorable views of neighbouring mountains and countryside from three transfer levels at 960m, 1450m and 2200m above sea level.

The resort is a pretty great summertime playground as well, with 7km of mountain bike tracks and four hiking trails taking in forests, fields and waterfalls. The so-called Adventure Park is a ropes obstacle course, strung between the trees at 1460m. There's even an indoor water park (open year-round) with a glass-domed roof showing off mountain views.

Gazprom Mountain ResortSKIING, HIKING

(Гранд Отель Поляна GOOGLE MAP ; %862-259 5052; www.polyanski.ru; Achipsinskaya ul 16, Esto-Sadok; ski lift ticket weekdays/weekends from R1200/1350, cable car from R400; h9am-11pm)

With two different base stations, Gazprom’s plush resort has 14 lifts and 21km of ski trails that cover a range of difficulty levels. Although it’s primarily a downhill mountain, some Olympic Nordic events were held atop its broad, gently sloping ridge. In summer, the cable cars are operational, offering excellent hiking in the surrounding countryside and spectacular views.

Bannaya SkazkaBANYA

(Банная Сказка GOOGLE MAP ; %8-928 852 2852; www.spa-bani.com; ul Olimpiyskaya 36, Roza Khutor; per person before/after 2pm R500/1000)

Here's a welcome warm-up after a day on the slopes. This spa centre – part of the Fort Eureka hotel complex – includes two atmospheric bani, each with a plunge pool and rest area. Hardy souls may prefer to cool off in the cold rush of the on-site mountain stream. It's a few steps from the Roza Khutor train station.

British BanyaBANYA

(British-баня GOOGLE MAP ; %8-918 607 6611; www.britishbanya.com; Kosmolsky per, Krasnaya Polyana; per 3hr for 1-3 people R15,000; h9am-last visitor)

In Krasnaya Polyana village, British Banya has a beautiful setting against a mountainous backdrop with a round dipping pool and two saunas – all beautifully designed in natural wood and stone. Massages and other treatments are available, plus good teas are on hand. Alcohol is prohibited.

SkyParkADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-100 4207; www.ajhackett.com; Krasnoflotskaya ul, Kazachiy brod; h10am-6.30pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr)

The setting is certainly spectacular for Russia's first park for all things aerial, including bungee jumping, zip-lining and more. The park overlooks the greenery and waterfalls of Sochi National Park, with views to the peaks of the Caucasus. In addition to two bungee jumps, there are hanging bridges, two different rock-climbing routes and an aerial swing.

The centrepiece of the park is the 439m Skybridge, a swaying steel-cable bridge that stretches between two cliffs at a height of 207m. Look for it from the highway, as you drive from Krasnaya Polyana to Adler.

4Sleeping

The majority of top-end hotels are clustered around the Roza Khutor and Gornaya Karusel ski resorts, while some cheaper options can be found in Krasnaya Polyana village. See www.rosaski.com for a full list of Roza Khutor accommodation options.

Valset ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$

(Апартаменты Valset GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-200 0048; www.azimuthotels.com; Roza Khutor; apt from R4500; naW)

Stylish apartments in the heart of the Roza Khutor are an excellent alternative to expensive hotel rooms, especially if you prefer to self-cater on occasion. A range of options are available, from cosy studios to two-bedroom apartments. There's a playground for the kiddies and amazing mountain views from your balcony.

Bridge MountainHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-100 1435, 862-243 9735; ul Zaschitnikov Kavkaza 120/3, Krasnaya Polyana; capsules R1800, r R2000-2600; aW)

In Krasnaya Polyana village, this friendly, modern hotel is an excellent midrange option for travellers who do not intend to spend their holiday in their room. The most economical option is the 9-sq-metre 'capsule', which includes two single beds and not much else. Standard rooms are a more generous 33-sq-metres, but still pretty sparse (though comfortable and modern).

There is a restaurant on-site, as well as a spa, a banya and ski equipment rental. Prices increase during ski season.

Utomlyonnye SolntsemHOTEL$$

(Утомленные солнцем GOOGLE MAP ; %8-918-309 5893; www.hotel-kraspol.ru; ul Michurina 5/1, Krasnaya Polyana; d summer/winter from R2000/4000; W)

Named after the Oscar-winning film by director Nikita Mikhalkov (Burnt by the Sun in English), this midrange hotel has clean but basic rooms in Krasnaya Polyana village. The place has an anachronistic air about it, having not quite shed its Soviet mantle, but it's a decent option for the price. Breakfast is included.

Hotel TatyanaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Татьяна GOOGLE MAP ; %862-243 9111; www.tatyana-alpik.ru; Estonskaya ul 75, Esto-Sadok; r R1900-2400, ste R2800-4000; aW)

Just across the street from Gorki Gorod, this attractive property is one of the more affordable options in town. An open fireplace warms the lobby. (If that doesn't do the trick, there's also a banya for rent.) Rooms are a bit dated, but otherwise comfortable and colourful.

Grand Hotel PolyanaRESORT$$$

(Гранд Отель Поляна GOOGLE MAP ; %862-259 5595; www.grandhotelpolyana.ru; Achipsinskaya ul 16, Esto-Sadok; r summer/winter from R5000/8600; pnaWs)

Offering Krasnaya Polyana’s finest accommodation, Gazprom's sprawling 400-room resort has spacious, handsome rooms, decked with oil paintings on the wall and stocked with luxury linens and Bulgari bath products. Every sort of amenity is at guests' disposal, including indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, spa centres, restaurants and ski slopes right on the property. Prices include breakfast.

Sochi Marriott Krasnaya PolyanaHOTEL$$$

(Сочи Марриотт Красная Поляна GOOGLE MAP ; %8-8622 354 392; www.marriott.com; Nab Vremena Goda 1, Esto-Sadok; r summer/winter from R6700/10,200; paiWs)

This colossal top-end hotel at the foot of the Gorki Gorod ski lifts might belong to a major European chain, but its imposing facade is best described as nouveau-Soviet. Inside, however, things are much better, with spacious, comfortable rooms, as you would expect from Marriott. The views are fabulous, as are the spa facilities. Off-season deals abound.

Azimut Freestyle HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-800-200 0048, 862-243 1335; www.azimuthotels.com; Naberezhnaya Polyanka 4, Roza Khutor; s/d in summer from R3500/4100, in winter from R7500/8100; naW)

This stylish hotel is an excellent base for your outdoor adventure, with modern comfortable rooms, friendly service and fabulous mountain and river views. It's particular popular among the young, sporty set. Coming from Roza Khutor train station, it's the first hotel on the left bank. Discounts are available for advanced online booking.

5Eating

Aside from a decent selection of restaurants and cafes in and around the resorts, all the major hotels also have their own restaurants.

PerekrestokSUPERMARKET$

(Перекрёсток GOOGLE MAP ; Nab Lavanda 2, Roza Khutor; h10am-10pm)

Self-caterers will find everything they need on the 1st floor of this chain supermarket near Gorki Gorod.

oVershina 2200RUSSIAN, EUROPEAN$$

(Вершина 2200 GOOGLE MAP ; https://gorkygorod.ru/vershina_2200; Gorki Gorod; mains R800-1500; h10am-6pm)

Sup a warming soup as you sit by the toasty fire and watch the snow fall on the ski slopes outside. Located at 2200m (the highest point in Gorki Gorod), this classy two-floor restaurant has fantastic views and serves a surprisingly wide mixture of European and Russian food.

Chyo? Kharcho!CAUCASIAN$$

(Чё? Харчо! GOOGLE MAP ; www.che-harcho.ru; ul Olimpiskaya 37, Roza Khutor; mains R450-800)

This popular restaurant serves generous portions of Caucasian dishes, including kharcho, the spicy Georgian soup that inspired its unusual name ('Huh? Kharcho!' in English). Also offers pizza among all the khachapuri and shashlyk. Indoor and outdoor seating and live music in the evenings. Find it right next to the Roza Khutor ski lifts.

Vysota 2320CAFE$$

(Высота 2320 GOOGLE MAP ; Roza Pik plateau; mains R600-1200; h10am-5pm)

Located high atop Roza Peak, the aptly named 'Altitude 2320' is the perfect place to kick back after skiing and snowboarding. The floor to ceiling windows yield a fabulous panorama all around: the Black Sea is visible from here on on a clear day. There's nothing too surprising on the menu, but the staples are artfully prepared and presented.

ModusITALIAN$$

(Модус GOOGLE MAP ; Nab Panorama 3, Roza Khutor; pizzas R500-800; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat & Sun)

Modus is a cool and casual pizzeria with a trendy vibe – but not too trendy. The warm, wooden interior is decked out with all manner of mismatched chairs, comfy couches and eclectic artwork, creating a very welcoming atmosphere indeed. Pizzas range from traditional (Margarita) to not-so-traditional (Barbecue), so take your pick!

TrikoniRUSSIAN, EUROPEAN$$

(Трикони GOOGLE MAP ; www.trikoni.ru; ul Michurina 1, Krasnaya Polyana; mains R400-800; h11am-11pm; Wv)

Just up the road from Utomlyonnye Solntsem in Krasnaya Polyana village, Trikoni is an old-fashioned country inn with a menu full of Russian and Italian favourites. It's hearty, filling fare, that's sure to satisfy after a day on the slopes. In summer, take a seat on the deck with mountain views.

7Shopping

Souvenir stalls and shops in all three Krasnaya Polyana ski resorts sell rather-large hairy Caucasian hats called papakha, tacky souvenirs, homemade wine, pickles and honey.

Krasnaya Polyana Tasting ComplexFOOD & DRINKS

(Дегустационный комплекс 'Красная Поляна' GOOGLE MAP ; www.balzamsochi.ru; Nab Panorama 2, Roza Khutor; h10am-9pm)

Step inside this little shop to sample the local liqueurs, balsams and wines – many of which are infused with mountain herbs, fruit and honey from Krasnaya Polyana and nearby Abkhazia.

8Information

There are ATMs at all top-end hotels and at the ski resort base stations.

Emergency Services (%243 0422)

Tourist Information Office (Туристический информационный центр GOOGLE MAP ; %259 5052; Achipsinskaya ul 16, Esto-Sadok; h9am-6pm) The tourist information office is next to the Gorki Gorod ski lifts. Helpful, English-speaking staff can organise hiking and other activities in the summer months.

Ski-hire shops abound at both ski areas and in Krasnaya Polyana village.

8Getting There & Away

Krasnaya Polyana is approximately 40km east of Adler along the Mzymta River. There are two train stations in the resort area: Esto-Sadok (Эсто-Садок вокзал GOOGLE MAP ), near Krasnaya Polyana village; and Roza Khutor, further east, near the resort of the same name. Comfortable trains from Sochi (via Adler) make the 1¼-hour journey six times a day (R233).

From the Sochi bus station, take bus or marshrutka 105, which goes to Krasnaya Polyana, stopping at all the resorts (R50 to R100, one to two hours, frequent). You can also pick up this bus at the Adler airport.

8Getting Around

From Roza Khutor train station, walk about 1km west along the river to reach the ski resort base station. Gorki Gorod and Gazprom Mountain Resort are both about 3km west of the train station, but the roads are not really pedestrian friendly. It's best to take a taxi (R400) or hop on bus 105. If you're staying at one of these resorts, hotel staff can arrange a transfer from Sochi or Adler.