Mineral Water Spas
The central Caucasus rises from the steppe in an intriguing landscape studded with dead volcanoes and spouting mineral springs. The curative powers of the springs have attracted unhealthy, hypochondriac or just holiday-minded Russians since the late 18th century.
Today the healthy outnumber the ailing in the spas, sanatoriums and hotels scattered across the region known as Kavkazskie Mineralnye Vody (Caucasian Mineral Waters, Минеральные Воды). The parks and elegant spa buildings recall the 19th century, when fashionable society trekked from Moscow and St Petersburg to see, be seen and look for a spouse.
Many of the 130-plus springs have, however, fizzled out from lack of maintenance. Those that remain feed fountains in drinking galleries and provide the elixir for sanatorium treatments of ailing bodies.
Pyatigorsk and Kislovodsk are the main resorts. The transport hub, Mineralnye Vody, lacks mineral spas of its own, despite the name.
A HERO OF OUR TIME
The Caucasian Mineral Waters region is haunted by the Romantic writer Mikhail Lermontov, whose tale ‘Princess Mary’, from his novel A Hero of Our Time, is set here. In an uncanny echo of the novel’s plot, Lermontov was killed in a duel at Pyatigorsk in 1841.
Lermontov was banished twice from his native St Petersburg to serve in the army in Pyatigorsk: first, after blaming the tsarist authorities for the death in a duel of another ‘troublesome’ writer, Pushkin; and second, for himself duelling. Lermontov was challenged once again in Pyatigorsk for jesting about the clothes of one Major Martynov. Firing first, Lermontov aimed into the air but was in return shot through the heart. Many saw his death, like Pushkin’s, as orchestrated by the authorities.
Many places in Kislovodsk and Pyatigorsk are linked to the man and his fiction, and a visit to the superb Lermontov Museum in Pyatigorsk is essential.
Mineralnye Vody Минеральные Воды
‘Minvody’ is the main air-transport hub not only for Caucasian Mineral Waters but also for skiing and hiking around Mt Elbrus and Dombay. If you arrive late and need a bed, the train station resting rooms (Komnaty Otdikha;
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%86531-47 380; Mineralnye Vody Train Station, ul XXII Partsezda; r per 12/24 hr R620/1100) offer clean, affordable accommodation; otherwise Pyatigorsk is only a 30-minute drive or one-hour train journey away.
8Getting There & Away
During ski season, marshrutky await planes arriving at Minvody airport and shuttle groups of people straight to the Dombay and Elbrus ski areas (per person R600).
Air
Mineralnye Vody Airpor (Международный аэропорт Минеральные Воды
GOOGLE MAP
; %87922-20 777; http://mvairport.ru)t is 2km west of the centre on the M29 highway. Flights to Moscow and St Petersburg are frequent and there a few international connections, too.
Bus
The bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Sovetskaya ul 97) is about 1.5km east of the airport with these services:
AKislovodsk R100, 1¼ hours, 12 daily
AKrasnodar R985, 7½ hours, 12 daily
ANalchik R200, two hours, 15 daily
ARostov-on-Don R600, seven hours, four daily
ATeberda R460, six hours, daily at 2.45pm
Bus 223 to Pyatigorsk (R65, 45 minutes) departs every 30 minutes from ul XXII Partsezda near the train station.
Taxi
Sample taxi prices from the airport: Pyatigorsk R600, Kislovodsk R800, Nalchik R1500, Terskol/Elbrus R2500 and Dombay R3000.
Train
Minvody is on the main train line and thus well connected to points north and south. The centrally located train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul XXII Partsezda) picks up all trains heading to/from Pyatigorsk, Kislovodsk and Nalchik.
Elektrichki service Kislovodsk (R169, 1¾ hours) via Pyatigorsk (R69, 50 minutes) roughly every hour until 10pm. There are also elektrichki to Krasnodar (R1000, six hours, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 1.08pm) and Nalchik (R312, three hours, 8.48am and 2.26pm daily).
8Getting Around
Marshrutkya 11 links the airport and train station, passing by the bus station. A taxi between the airport and train station costs around R200.
Pyatigorsk Пятигoрск
%8793 / Pop 142,500 / Elevation 512m / Time Moscow
The five peaks of Mt Beshtau overlook Pyatigorsk – a name created from the Russian words for five and mountain. The town began life as Fort Konstantinovskaya in 1780 and quickly developed into a fashionable resort as it attracted Russian society to its spas and stately buildings. Checking into a sanatorium is still big business here. The most urbanised of the spa towns, it remains an attractive place to spend a few days with lovely walks in its parks, tree-lined streets and up central Mt Mashuk.
Prospekt Kirova runs west from Park Tsvetnik at the foot of Mt Mashuk through the town centre to the train station.
Pyatigorsk
1Sights
3Entertainment
8Information
1Sights
oMt MashukMOUNTAIN
(гора Машук MAP GOOGLE MAP )
There's a fantastic view of Pyatigorsk, and all the way to Mt Elbrus on good weather days, from the 993m summit of Mt Mashuk. You can reach here either by hiking up a tree-shaded road or – easier – riding the cable car (Канатка
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://kanatkakmw.ru; bul Gagarina; one way adult/child R210/50, return R360/100; 
h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat). The best views of Elbrus are early in the morning but it's also a lovely spot to come to for sunset.
If you’re hoofing it, Mt Mashuk is about a 45-minute climb from the cable-car station. You can also rent bicycles next to the lower cable-car station.
oLermontov MuseumMUSEUM
(Государственный музей-заповедник М.Ю. Лермонтова
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-339 731; http://domiklermontova.ru; ul Lermontova 4; adult/child R200/100; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
Many Pyatigorsk attractions revolve around larger-than-life writer, poet, painter, cavalry soldier, society beau and duellist Mikhail Lermontov. Chief among them is this museum, a walled garden compound containing four cottages, including the pretty thatched one in which Lermontov lived during his final months. You can see original furniture, copies of Lermontov’s poems, sketches and 19th-century trinkets.
Mt BeshtauMOUNTAIN
(гора Бештау GOOGLE MAP )
Ask locals about hiking routes up and around this 1400m, five-peaked mountain that gives Pyatigorsk it's name. It's located a couple of kilometres northwest of the city, so you get a great view of the mountain from the top of Mt Mashuk.
Park TsvetnikPARK
(Парк Цветник MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sobornaya)
This lovely wooded park with many architectural and monumental features forms a 1km-long arc around the eastern end of pr Kirova on the lower slopes of Mt Mashuk. Walk through the ornate entrance gate and around the right side of the Lermontov Gallery and ascend to the park via Diana's Grotto (Грот Дианы MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Park Tsvetnik), a favourite picnic spot in Lermontov.
At the top of the hill, a network of paths leads to a much-photographed bronze eagle (Бронзовый Орел
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
) sculpture. Continue northeast and you'll reach the Academic Gallery (кадемическая галерея
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Kirova), perched above the eastern terminus of pr Kirova. This attractive classical building was built in 1851 to house one of Pyatigorsk’s best-known springs, No 16 (currently closed). It was here that Pechorin first set eyes on Princess Mary in Lermontov's novel A Hero of Our Time. Inside a wing of gallery is the Insect Museum (Музей Насекомых
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Academic Gallery; adult/child R100/50; h10am-9pm) housing a small collection of critters (spiders, snakes, frogs) as well as a lovely butterfly collection from around the globe.
Drinking GalleryNOTABLE BUILDING
(Питьевая Галерея
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Kirova; h7-10am, 11am-3pm & 4-7pm)
You can sample the local mineral water (small/large cups R2/5) here. It tastes rather sulphurous, but the best reasons for dropping in are the wonderful mid-20th-century mosaics on the walls.
ProvalHOT SPRINGS
(Провал
GOOGLE MAP
; bul Gagarina; h9am-5pm)
F
On the south slope of Mt Mashuk, the Proval natural spring lies hidden inside a cavern. There is a religious icon on the wall inside. Outside, a bronze statue of Ostap Bender, the fictional fraudster who ran a ticket scam here in the popular Soviet-era film and novel The Twelve Chairs, greets guests.
Lermontov Duel SiteHISTORIC SITE
(Место Дуэли Лермонтова GOOGLE MAP ; bul Gagarina)
In a clearing on the forested western flank of Mt Mashuk is a monument marking the Lermontov duel site. The exact spot is unknown, but it is thought to be near the needle-point obelisk devoted to Lermontov that even today is bedecked with flowers.
To get here, ride marshrutka 16 from the Upper Market to the Mesto Duely (Duel Site) stop (five minutes). From there walk around 500m to a fork in the road, bear left and continue for around the same distance.
2Activities
Full-day group excursions to Dombay, Arkhyz and Elbrus (all from R1000) – among other regional sightseeing destinations – are hawked from booths at the eastern end of pr Kirova; the website of Resort Bureau (Курортное Бюро
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-909 751 6006; www.kurortnoeburo.ru; 1st flr, pr Kirova 27A; h10am-8pm) lists the tours in English, with prices. These tours involve about eight hours of driving and four hours on the ground at your destination. They also don't run every day (and only if there are sufficient customers).
4Sleeping
oHostel Zhit' prosto PyatigorskHOSTEL$
(Хостел Жить просто Пятигорск
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-988-108 8080; www.zhitprostohostel.ru; ul Yaklova 6A; dm/r R450/1000; 
n
a
W)
A good location and an international, arty vibe are both strong points for this great new hostel. Dorms are big, mixed and have a fun painting of a London bus on the side of the wooden cubicle bunk beds. There's a good communal kitchen, and washing machines.
Hostel SvoiHOSTEL$
(Хостел Свои
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %988 750 3800; www.hostel-pyatigorsk.ru; ul Krasnaya 5; dm/s/d R450/1100/1250; naW)
This clean, tidy hostel, on a quiet lane in the centre of town, sports a fresh colour scheme and shaggy rug-style blankets on the beds for those hankering after an Austin Powers moment. All rooms share bathrooms and there's free tea and coffee in the big kitchen-lounge with a balcony.
oBristolHOTEL$$
(Бристоль
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-200 065; www.spahotel-bristol.ru; r from R3100; naW
s)
The pair of armoured knights guarding the entrance to this hotel signal a note of old-world glamour, reinforced by motifs of antique maps in the decoration inside. Rooms are comfortable with modern facilities, and staff speak English.
There's a pleasant restaurant and separate bar (with some outdoor seating) in the hotel, which also has a spa and small indoor swimming pool.
Congress Hotel IntouristHOTEL$$
(Конгресс-отель Интурист
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-349 249; www.hotel-intourist.ru; pl Lenina 13; s/d R2400/2900, renovated from R3000/3500; naW)
Pyatigorsk's biggest hotel, with 151 rooms, the partially refurbished Intourist is conveniently located for Mt Mashuk. The 'standard class’ rooms hark back to the Brezhnev era, with their narrow beds and scuffed furnishings. Pricier renovated rooms are much more pleasant. All rooms have balconies, some with spectacular mountain views.
5Eating
Upper MarketMARKET$
(Верҳний рынок, Verkhny Rynok
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Levanevskogo; cheese per kilo from R350; h7am-5pm; 
v)
The ideal place to stock up on edibles for a picnic is this lively outdoor market. Vegetarians can find all kinds of salad and fruit items, as well as some local cheeses such as the stringy chechil, which comes in regular or smoked varieties, or the brenza, a soft white cheese with holes in it.
oShalashiCAUCASIAN$$
(Шалаши
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-322 551; http://restoran-shalashi.ru; Lermontov Duel Site; mains R350-850; h11am-1am; 
c)
This delightful Caucasian restaurant, surrounded by the forest 50m from the Lermontov duel site, has outdoor seating in round huts made from branches. The house speciality is Azeri sadzh (a sizzling meat or fish dish served in a cast-iron pan with potatoes and onions).
SakvoyazhPIZZA$$
(Саквояж
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-392 555; pr Kirova 61; mains R310-990; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; c)
Apart from a wide range of tasty pizzas, this contemporary-styled restaurant serves several other dishes, including salads, steaks and pasta. There's also a kid's menu and a play area.
Art Café NostalgiaRUSSIAN$$
(Арт Кафе Ностальжи
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-391 400; pr Kirova 56; mains R300-700; h11am-midnight; Wv)
On restaurant-lined pr Kirova, Nostalgia has a pleasant outdoor terrace where you can dine on pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat), pirozhki (pies), trout, salmon and lots of other dishes, including vegetarian options.
Santa FeINTERNATIONAL$$
(Санта Фе
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-267 3397; www.sf-cafe.ru; pr Kirova 69; mains R150-880; h9am-midnight; W)
Stylish, with a huge menu (pastas, lasagne, steaks, sushi and over a dozen salads) and pleasant open-air tables. The ground-floor cafe has a hugely tempting display of cakes and pastries.
oDakiINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-962-000 0000; www.daki-rest.com; 6th flr Arbat Shopping Centre, ul Oktyabrskaya 17; mains R500-2100; hnoon-midnight; W)
The roof of a shopping mall is the location for this enormous restaurant, bar and nightclub with a huge outdoor terrace. The menu is big on seafood, steaks and sushi, all well prepared and presented. With live music on the central stage backed by an enormous screen, this clearly is the place for a major night out.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oTet-a-TetCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-391 425; Kartinnaya Galareya, pr Kirova 23; h11am-11pm)
On the upper floor an attractive 19th-century building beside the entrance to Park Tsvetnik, this cafe, which doubles as an art gallery, serves a good range of drinks and sweet treats. Enjoy the breeze and leafy views from the wrap-around balcony seating.
Happy CoffeeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Mikhailovskaya Galereya, bul Gagarina 2; h10am-11pm)
There's live music at 7.30pm most nights in this pleasant cafe, which occupies part of an 1848-vintage building. The arty interior design includes a mini paper airship hanging from the ceiling. The offerings of flavoured coffees, teas and desserts is impressive.
TeslaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-962-428 8813; http://tesla-grill.net; ul Kozlova 28; hnoon-1am)
This stylish bar and restaurant is named after the Siberian-American inventor Nikola Tesla, whose image adorns the interior, along with naked light bulbs, LP players mounted on the walls like installation art, and other quirky touches. There's a separate covered verandah area out front for smokers and a good range of drinks and eats.
3Entertainment
Lermontov GalleryLIVE MUSIC
(Лермонтовская галерея
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-391 436; www.kursal.ru; Park Tsvetnik; tickets R200-500; hbox office 10am-7pm)
The striking light blue and beautifully proportioned Lermontov Gallery, built in 1901 in cast iron with stained-glass windows, is now a concert hall. It’s well worth taking in a concert (both classical and popular music) at this architectural highlight.
8Information
Sberbank (Сбербанк
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Kirova 59; h8.30am-6.15pm Mon-Fri, to 5.15pm Sat) Has ATMs.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Kirova 52; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
From the long-distance bus station (Avtovokzal;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-391 653; www.kmvavto.ru; ul Bunimovicha 34) there are numerous buses to Nalchik (R172, 1½ hours). The daily bus to Teberda (near Dombay) departs at 7.15am (R450, five hours).
An alternative way to Dombay is to take one of the regularly scheduled tour buses (one way from R1000).
The Pyatigorsk train station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-336 599; Privokzalnaya pl 1) has frequent elektrichki to both Kislovodsk (R101, one hour) and Mineralnye Vody (R69, 50 minutes).
8Getting Around
Trams 1, 3 and 5 (R19) connect the train station with the town centre along pr Kirova. Marshrutky depart from the train station and the terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Mira) opposite the Upper Market.
For taxis, call Red Taxi (%8793-333 333, 8-919-733 3333; http://redtaxi.ru). A taxi to Mineralnye Vody airport (30 minutes) costs around R450.
Bicycles (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; bul Gagarina; per hour/day R150/700; hnoon-8pm) can be rented from beside the lower cable car station.
Kislovodsk Кисловoдск
%8793 / Pop 128, 553 / Elevation 872m / Time Moscow
This pleasant spa town has been a popular destination for Russian holidaymakers since the early 19th century, when the Romantic writers Mikhail Lermontov and Alexander Pushkin spent time in its verdant parks and rugged countryside.
The name means ‘Sour Waters’, but Kislovodsk has a decidedly sweet vibe. Despite the many tourists and sanatoriums scattered about, Kislovodsk remains relaxing to the core. The landscape is green, the many gardens well manicured, and the air, at nearly 1km above sea level, is crisp.
Pedestrianised Kurortny bul, running north–south from the post office to the Narzan Gallery, is Kislovodsk’s main drag and spiritual nerve centre. The train station is just east of Kurortny bul up a smaller pedestrianised street, cobblestoned ul Karla Marksa. Kurortny Park spreads southeast from Narzan Gallery.
Kislovodsk
1Sights
3Entertainment
1Sights
Dozens of pleasant walking trails have been carved out of the lush, hilly landscape for the benefit of sanatorium-goers and visitors. Pick up a map of trails from kiosks behind the colonnade in Kurortny Park.
oKurortny ParkNATURE RESERVE
(Курортный парк MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Founded in 1823 and covering 1340 hectares, this hillside park is among the largest in Europe. It's riddled with walking trails past rivers, ponds, forests and formal gardens. The park ascends southeast from a plaza behind the semicircular Colonnade (Колоннада MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Mira) to the peak of Mt Maloe Sedlo (Little Saddle; 1306m). There are several other entrances including the grand Cascade Stairs (Каскадная лестница MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Volodarskogo 12).
It’s a two- to three-hour hike from the base of the park to the so-called Olympic Complex (1200m), where you'll find the upper cable car terminal. On the way you’ll pass various cafes, statues and other points of interest, including the luscious Valley of Roses (Долина роз GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny Park). At 1065m you reach Red Sun Hill (Гора Красное солнышко GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny Park), where, on a clear day, there are great panoramas of the yawning valleys and green plateaus of the surrounding countryside, including Mt Maloe Sedlo to the west and, on clear mornings, Mt Elbrus to the south.
It’s another 45-minute walk from the Olympic Complex to the summit of Mt Maloe Sedlo. Trails also lead to Mt Maly Dzhinal (1484m) and Mt Bolshoe Sedlo (1409m); Kislovodsk maps show all the walks, most of which are numbered and signed.
For a speedier ascent, you can ride the cable car. The lower station (канатная дорога
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-765 691; off Krepostnoy per, Kurotny Park; one way adult/child R200/120; h10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm), close by the viewpoint over the Valley of Roses, is within 10 minutes' walk of the Cascade stairs.
oNarzan GalleryHOT SPRINGS
(Нарзанная Галерея
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-720 352; Kurortny bul 4C; cup/bottle of water R5/10; h7-9am, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm)
This graceful, well-preserved 1850s building recalls the spa town of Bath in England. Inside, the rich, carbonic Narzan Spring bubbles up inside a glass dome and spits out mineral-rich water – both hot and cold – into more than a dozen fountains. It doesn't taste that bad, and if you come here, you’re obliged to have a cup, so drink up! Narzan means ‘Drink of Brave Warriors’ in Turkish.
FountainSTREET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny bul)
An Italian company designed this circular fountain that performs a dramatic music and lights show (with even the occasional burst of fire!) every evening between 7.30pm and 10pm.
Ring RockNATURAL FEATURE
(Гора-Кольцо
GOOGLE MAP
; off A157, Mirny; hrock 24hr, market 9am-6pm)
This naturally formed archway, in a limestone cliff 10km north of central Kislovodsk, is an intriguing sight, despite the abundance of graffiti. At the base of the rock, and as good a reason to come here as any, is a market where vendors sell crochet shawls, woolly sock, sheepskin rugs and Caucasian hats made of felt and fur.
A taxi here and back from the city centre, including waiting time, costs around R400.
Yaroshenko MuseumMUSEUM
(Мемориальный музей-усадьба художника Н.А.Ярошенко
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-737 158; http://museumyaroshenko.ru; ul Yaroshenko 1; per exhibit adult/child R100/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
The highlight of this museum, which is based in three attractive wooden houses in lovely gardens, is the 'White Villa' (Belaya Villa), housing a small but beautiful collection of works by Nikolai Yaroshenko (1846-98), a leading proponent of Russian realism and expert portrait painter, who settled in Kislovodsk in his latter years.
Yaroshenko’s lovingly cared-for tomb is just outside nearby St Nicholas Cathedral. The museum has two entrances – one beside the cathedral and one from Kurortny Park.
St Nicholas CathedralCHURCH
(Свято-Никольский собор
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-730 717; http://jivonosniy-istochnik.ru; pr Mira 19)
With five gold domes, this is a 1999 reconstruction of the original 19th-century orthodox cathedral destroyed during Soviet times in 1936. The interior decoration is dazzling.
Chaliapin Dacha Literary MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей 'Дача Шаляпина'
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-767 533; http://dacha-shalyapina.ru; ul Shalyapina; adult/child R100/free; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm)
The legendary Fyodor Chaliapin (1873–1938) lived in this palatial wood and stained-glass villa in 1917. Now a museum, it features paintings and photos of the Russian opera singer and actor in various roles, plaster ceilings bursting with cherubs and fruit designs, and lovely glazed-tile chimneys.
The museum also hosts classical-music concerts (R400) on Wednesdays and Fridays at 3pm.
Narzan BathsNOTABLE BUILDING
(Нарзанные ванны MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny bul 4)
The Moorish exterior of the Narzan Baths, dating from 1904, is looking very handsome after a recent restoration. Unfortunately, the building has been closed for years and with interior restoration of the two swimming pools and 24 mineral baths ongoing, it's not clear when this building will again reopen.
Kislovodsk Museum of Local History "Fortress"MUSEUM
(Кисловодский историко-краеведческий музей
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-737 039; www.museum-krepost.ru; per Mira 11; adult/child R150/75; h10am-6pm)
To secure Russia’s new southern frontier, Catherine the Great built a line of forts along the Caucasus mountain range. Kislovodsk was one of them, and this local history museum occupies part of the remaining walls of that 1803 fort. Notable Russian writers, such as Alexander Pushkin, Leo Tolstoy and Mikhail Lermontov, were visitors to Kislovodsk, and you can see displays about them (all in Russian), as well as about Alexander Solzhenitsyn, who was born here.
Lermontov MonumentMONUMENT
(Памятник Лермонтову MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortny park)
Near the Colonnade entrance to Kurortny Park is this multilevel monument to 19th-century writer Mikhail Lermontov. Caged in a grotto at ground level is an effigy of the red-eyed demon from Lermontov’s famous poem, ‘The Demon’, believed to be his troubled alter ego.
WORTH A TRIP
ALIKONOVKA GORGE
Around 8km west of Kislovodsk is rugged Alikonovka Gorge (теснина Аликоновки GOOGLE MAP ). It's an attractive spot that trades on a legend about a boy who leapt from the nearby cliffs out of love for a local girl. The girl was supposed to leap too, but thought better of it. Those same craggy cliffs, shooting up from the gushing Alikonovka river, are now popular with rock climbers. There's pleasant walking here, too, and a natural spring where people come to drink the water.
In the midst of all this is Hotel Zamok (Гостиница Замок
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-312 0003; www.zamok-kislovodsk.ru; ushchele reki Alikonovki; d R3500-5500; aW), housed in a mock medieval castle. Standard rooms are modern and comfortable, but nothing out of the ordinary. However, the more expensive options boast beautiful beds and furniture, as well as working open fires. The hotel's Georgian restaurant (mains R300 to R750) has seats indoors in a baronial hall and the castle tower, as well as outside in wooden huts.
Opposite the hotel there's the more casual Cafe Saklya (Kaфе Сакля
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-312 0002; ushchele reki Alikonovki; mains R250-600; h11am-11pm) serving Russian and Caucasian dishes in a rustic setting populated with a menagerie of stuffed animals (including a beer-drinking bear) and birds.
A taxi from Kislovodsk to the gorge is around R500 return, including waiting time.
TTours
Excursion bureaus clustered on and around Kurortny bul sell trips to Dombay (R1200) and Arkhyz (R650), as well as a trip to Ring Rock and the local Honey Waterfalls. Contact the travel agency KGBE (Кисловодское Городское Бюро Экскурсий
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-767 420; www.kgbkavkaz.ru; pr Dzerzhinskogo 36; h9am-6pm daily) for more trips.
4Sleeping
Hostel Zhit' prostoHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-988-708 3242; http://kslvd.zhitprostohostel.ru; ul Gertsena 3A; dm/r from R350/1200; W)
This colourfully decorated, modern hostel is a friendly place to stay with spacious dorms and pleasant private rooms that are good for groups or families. Not much English is spoken but the staff are friendly and helpful.
Hostel OutdoorHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %928 307 3077; www.outdoor-hostel.ru; dm R350; W)
You can't fault the central location of this hostel, occupying part of the top floor a building next to the Drinking Gallery. The dorms are brightly painted and there are spotless large bathrooms and a kitchen area.
oGrand HotelHOTEL$$
(Гранд Отель
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-733 119; www.grandhotel-kmv.ru; Kurortny bul 14; s/d incl breakfast from R3800/4000; aW)
Pretty much living up to its name, this classy, perfectly located place offers friendly service and large, well-furnished rooms, complete with spacious bathrooms. Facilities include a sauna and the Vesna restaurant.
Pan InterHOTEL$$
(Гостиниица Пан Интер
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-728 877; www.hotel-paninter.ru; ul Kurortny 2B; s/d incl breakfast from R3500/4000; aW)
Well-located Pan Inter has small but spotless, well-equipped rooms with a subdued colour scheme and shimmery fabrics. There’s a small desk, stocked minibar and modern bathroom.
5Eating
MiminoGEORGIAN$
(Мимино
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-722 288; http://mimino-kislovodsk.ru; Kurortny bul 6; mains R200-500; h11am-11pm)
This lively spot has an outdoor terrace set back from Kurortny bul. Start with piping-hot khachapuri and Georgian-style solyanka (a spicy soup) before moving onto sizzling kebabs.
ShokoladINTERNATIONAL$
(Шоколад
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-244 8006; Kurotny bul 19; mains R200-500; h9am-10pm)
Tired of shashlyk and khachapuri? Head to this modern, convivial cafe for good pizza, pasta, pastries, and a selection of tempting cakes.
o5642 VsotaINTERNATIONAL$$
(5642 ВЫСОТА
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-900 5642; www.novikovgroup.ru; Kurortny bul 13; mains R250-1000; hbakery cafe 9am-9pm, burger bar 11am-11pm, restaurant noon-midnight; Wv)
Moscow's Novikov group ups the dining standards in Kislovodsk with this new three-part venture. An excellent bakery-cafe and burger bar (both decorated with murals by street artist Misha Most) flank the restaurant, with its open kitchen, appealing decor and mammoth menu featuring Adygean and Georgian cuisine.
The burger bar's veggie Greenpeace burger (R250) is an inspired touch and the luscious fruit tarts in the bakery are hard to resist.
oBarashkaCAUCASIAN$$
(Барашка
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-962-493 9393; Kurortny bul 2B; mains R220-640; h11.30am-11pm; Wv)
Kudos to this convivial restaurant for its English menu and for tasty, well-presented food that matches the photos in that same menu. As well as traditional Caucasian dishes, such as the khachipuri, various shashlyk and stews, there are plenty of vegetarian options, too.
3Entertainment
Philharmonic Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(Государственная Филармония На Кавказских Минеральных Водах
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8793-721 801; www.kursal.ru; ul Karla Marksa 3; tickets from R400)
The North-Caucasus State Philharmonic play in this grand 1895 hall on a hill overlooking the railway station. Other popular music concerts with Russian singers and groups are also held here.
8Information
Main post office (
GOOGLE MAP
; Pervomayskiy pr 12; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) There are ATMs here, too
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The bus station (Автовокзал г. Кисловодск
GOOGLE MAP
; %879-375 7161; Promyshlennaya ul 4) is 6km north of the centre.
Frequent marshrutky and shared taxis leave from the train station for Pyatigorsk (R100, one hour) all day until late evening.
The easiest way to Dombay is on a regularly scheduled tour bus (R1200). Alternatively, head to Cherkessk and transfer there.
Other destinations include the following:
AArkhyz R469, five hours, one daily
ACherkessk R207, two hours, six daily
AKrasnodar R984, 8½ hours, three daily
ANalchik R250, two hours, three daily
Train
Trains depart from Kislovodsk’s attractive train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vokzalnaya).
AMineralnye Vody R270, 1¾ hours, twice hourly (elektrichka)
AMoscow platskart/kupe from R3200/R6500, 25 to 36 hours, three daily (3C express at 7.58pm)
APyatigorsk R101, one hour, hourly (elektrichka)
ARostov-on-Don 1st/2nd class R2611/1120, eight hours, two daily (elektrichka)
AAdler/Sochi platskart/kupe R2000/3500, 14½ hours, daily at 5.50pm
ASt Petersburg platskart/kupe R4350/7200, 50 hours, daily
Passenger trains also pass through Pyatigorsk and Roston-on-Don on their way to Adler/Sochi and St Petersburg.
Central Caucasus
Most visitors to the Russian Caucasus have their sights set firmly on the awesome Greater Caucasus mountains, in the central Caucasus (Центральный Кавказ), Europe’s highest peaks by a considerable margin. There are 200 peaks over 4000m, 30 over 4500m and seven over 5000m, including the granddaddy, Mt Elbrus (5642m). Mont Blanc, the highest in Western Europe at 4807m, is exceeded by 15 Caucasus peaks.
But the statistics speak nothing of the savage beauty of these mountains, where smooth green foothills morph with brutal assertiveness into a virtually impenetrable wall of rock spires, glaciers and daunting cliffs rising hundreds of metres into the air.
The Greater Caucasus mountains are an adventure lover’s playground. The two places most visited by foreigners for wonderful skiing, hiking and climbing are Dombay and Elbrus, but you can also organise some awesome adventures in Arkhyz and Nalchik.
Dombay & Teberda Домбaй и Тебердa
%Dombay 87872, Teberda 87879 / Pop Dombay 657, Teberda 9058 / Elevation Dombay 1600m, Teberda 1280m / Time Moscow
Even those well travelled in the world’s most stunning wilderness areas can only gape in awe when they first set eyes on Dombay. Wedged into a box canyon at the confluence of three raging mountain rivers, the resort town is surrounded by a soaring crown of jagged, Matterhorn-like peaks of rock and ice, festooned with glaciers and gushing waterfalls.
So great is Dombay's natural majesty that the locals seemingly gave up on the town itself. Frankly, it's an eyesore, dishevelled and dominated by concrete hotels and abandoned Soviet-era complexes. Fortunately, it takes only a brisk walk or ride to put all that behind you. Local operators will do their best to make sure you see the best scenery – on foot, skis, horseback or by jeep or taxi – both here and in the larger town of Teberda, 22.5km northeast of Dombay, beside the Teberda river.
Dombay and its surrounding mountains lie within the Teberdinsky State Natural Biosphere Reserve. Three ushchelie (deep valleys) watered by glacier-fed torrents – Alibek from the west, Amanauz from the south and Dombay-Ulgen from the east – meet in the village with the Mussa-Achitara ridge rising to the east. Winding ul Karachaevskaya is Dombay's main street – you'll find most hotels, restaurants and other facilities along or shortly off it.
1Sights & Activities
The main activities are skiing in the winter and hiking and horse riding in the summer. Many local guides and outdoor adventure activity operators hang out near Sberbank on ul Karachaevskaya.
Teberdinsky State Natural Biosphere ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(Тебердинский государственный биосферный заповедник
GOOGLE MAP
; %87879-51 326; http://teberda.org.ru; per Badukskiy 1, Teberda; R60; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm)
This park has a small museum with stuffed animals and info on wildlife and geology as well as a mini zoo with deer, foxes, wolves and other local fauna.
You can arrange guides for trekking and horse riding here as well as follow trekking trails.
Day Hiking
Many routes require a border permit and additionally may require a nature reserve pass (R300, payable at the guard post at the entry to the hike). It's a good idea to hire a guide, while some hikes, including Lake Turie in the Alibek Valley, require some mountaineering experience, as they may involve crossing glaciers and torrential rivers. There’s also a bear population.
oMussa-Achitara RidgeHIKING, SKIING
(Хребет Мусса-Ачитара GOOGLE MAP )
The 3200m-high Mussa-Achitara (Horse Thief) Ridge provides excellent skiing in winter and wonderful hiking in summer. Whatever time of year you come up here some truly memorable views of snow-capped mountains await.
Chyortova MelnitsaHIKING
(Чертова Мельница GOOGLE MAP )
No border permit is needed to follow this 3km hike beside the Amanauz River to the 'Devil’s Mill', a waterfall with good views of the Amanauz Glacier.
Head south out of town past the Dombay housing area and pick up the trail along the river. After negotiating a slippery stream crossing (icy through June) the path dissipates. Head uphill through the woods until the trail materialises again and follow it to the viewpoint.
Chuchkhur WaterfallsHIKING
(Чучхурский водопад GOOGLE MAP )
It’s a scenic, relatively easy 6km (two-hour) walk from the start of the first chairlift to two fine waterfalls on the Chuchkhur River. First, follow the vehicle track and then branch across the Russkaya polyana clearing and continue to the first set of waterfalls, the most impressive of which is 12m high.
Twenty minutes downstream from these falls, a 2km path forks south up Severny (North) Ptysh Valley to another waterfall.
Alibek ValleyHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
You don't need a border permit to follow this roughly 15km trail to Lake Turie, passing Alibek Glacier and the dramatic Alibek Falls, but hiring a guide to lead the way is a good idea.
Find the start by following the dirt road behind Snezhinka hotel for 6km up Alibek Valley to a mountaineers’ hostel, passing a climbers’ cemetery after 2km. From the hostel the trail ascends about two hours to the lake.
Baduksky LakesHIKING
(Третье Бадукское озеро
GOOGLE MAP
; Terberda; R300; h8am-6pm)
No border pass is needed to follow this trail from the Teberda River to these three glacial moraine lakes at 1971m, 1992m and 2000m. The walk starts from the suspension bridge over the river: don't leave here after 1pm, as you won't make it back in time before the bridge is closed.
Lakes
There are several pretty lakes in the area that make for a fine swim on a warm summer day. The easiest to access is Kara-Kel Lake (Озеро Кара-Кёль GOOGLE MAP ; Tebereda) just off the main road passing through Teberda; you can reach it by taxi or mashrutka. Also accessible by taxi is Tumanlykel Lake (Озеро Туманлыкель GOOGLE MAP ), around 7km northeast of Dombay.
Skiing
The ski season runs from late November until early May. Trails drop an eye-popping 1400 vertical metres to the valley floor. There is bowl skiing up above the treeline, as well as some mogul and glade runs for experts, and plenty of intermediate terrain. If going off piste, take a local guide.
The two cable cars and several chairlifts are run by different companies so you cannot buy a lift pass that covers all options. The new cable car and chairlifts provide the best all-in-one-ticket, covering the route from the village to 3200m in three stages. The old cable car will get you up to 2270m from where you'll have to pay separately for two old chairlifts to reach 3012m.
Most hotels and several rental shops around town and on the mountain hire out skis and snowboards (R500 per day).
WORTH A TRIP
GUM-BASHI PASS
One of the most scenic drives in the Southern Caucasus is over the Gum-bashi Pass (Перевал Гум-баши GOOGLE MAP ; A157). This 95km road links Kislovodsk in the east and Karachaevsk in the west and is a great route for getting to or from Dombay. If the weather cooperates, you'll have sublime views of Mt Elbrus and the Greater Caucasus chain. There are a couple of cafes and several viewing spots near top of the pass, plus a rudimentary ski field with drag lifts in winter. You're sure to see Karachay herding their horses and cattle, too. A taxi between Kislovodsk and Dombay costs R3000.
4Sleeping
Rates double or triple in the ski season. It's also possible to rent private rooms or flats from the women who gather near the cable cars every morning.
Snezhnaya KorolevaHOTEL$
(Снежная Королева
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-918-911 3332, 87872-58 370; http://snezhnaya-koroleva-dombai.ru; ul Karachaevskaya 39 & 41; d from R1500; Ws)
These comfortable and good-value rooms have ample space to accommodate both you and your ski equipment. The hotel is split across two neighbouring buildings and includes a banya (R1500 per hour) and small swimming pool.
oVershina ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$
(Апартаменты Вершина
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-926-836 0064; www.apart-vershina.com; ul Karachaeveskaya 60, Dombay; 1/2-bedroom apt from R3000/5000; Ws)
Great value for money, these spacious modern apartments offer all mod cons, including heated flooring, fully equipped kitchens and washing machines. All have balconies with great views, there's a cafe on the ground floor for meals and, in summer, a rooftop pool.
oAndersenHOTEL$$
(Андерсен
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-992-009 0909; ul Alanskaya 7; hr incl breakfast R2000-5000; 
pW)
Dombay's most stylish hotel (with a whimsical interior design vaguely influenced by fairy tales) offers comfortable, contemporary furnished rooms and an excellent restaurant where at least one of the staff members speaks good English. It's popular with well-heeled Russian urbanites.
Grand HotelHOTEL$$
(Гранд Отель
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-923 8888; ul Karachaevskaya 62; d from R2500; Ws)
This central hotel has modern rooms with red-wood furniture, attractive bedspreads and efficient service. It's so close to the new cable-car station that from some upper rooms you can almost reach out and touch skiers as they ascend the ridge. Many other lower rooms lack views owing to new buildings surrounding the hotel.
Hotel SnezhinkaHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Снежинка
GOOGLE MAP
; %87879-58 279; http://snezhinka-hotel.ru; ul Karachaevskaya 121; r from R2000; Ws)
Follow Dombay's main road through the village to find the 'Snowflake' hotel. Rooms are clean and pleasant enough, especially if you go for the pricier lyux (suite) ones. There's a small tank of colourful fish in the lobby, a gnome in the garden and a big outdoor pool open from June to September (as well as a small indoor pool year round).
Hotel Snezhny BarsHOTEL$$
(Отель Снежный Барс
GOOGLE MAP
; %87879-58 813; www.barshotel.ru; Dombay; s/d incl breakfast R2700/3000; pW)
Snezhny Bars has nicely appointed rooms with red-wood furniture, comfy queen-sized beds and balconies with views. Upper-price rooms add even more space to the equation. Follow ul Karichaevskaya after the cable-car station near Grand Hotel and take the third turning on the right.
TarelkaCHALET$$$
(Тарелка
GOOGLE MAP
; %800-555 4431; http://dombai.aelita.su/ufo-hotel; Mussa-Achitara Ridge; chalet R9400)
One of the most unusual accommodation options in Russia is this vintage 'portable' ski chalet. Looking like a flying saucer that has landed in the heights of the Dombay mountains, it sleeps up to eight people at an altitude of 2400m.
You need to book the whole chalet, which is cosy, with a shower, toilet and small kitchen space. Open only between October and April, it's very popular with skiers and snowboarders, so book well in advance.
To learn more about these Futuro House pods, designed by the Finnish Architect Matti Suuronen, see www.thefuturohouse.com.
5Eating
Most locals belong to the Karachay ethnic minority and are Muslim, so it's their nonpork cuisine that is most easily found here. Look out for sokhta (a mammoth, sausage-like creation stuffed with minced liver and rice) and dzhyorme (a smaller sausage) as well as the ubiquitous khichiny (flat breads typically stuffed with meat or cheese).
oKafe VstrechaCAUCASIAN
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-912 7703; Mussa-Achitara Ridge; mains R250; h10am-5pm, May-Nov, 8am-5pm Dec-Apr)
Given its location – beside the second chairlift station high above Dombay – the food here is very reasonably priced. There's a good selection of soups, salads and shashlyk, big steaming manti (steam palm-sized dumplings) and freshly made flat breads khichiny – with spectacular views thrown in for free from the outdoor seating.
Cafe AlibekCAUCASIAN$$
(Кафе Алибек
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-030 4033; ul Krachaevskaya 107; mains R300-600; h9am-11pm Dec-Apr, 10am-10pm May-Nov)
Enjoy the views of the nearby mountains at this cafe with a threadbare stuffed bear in the courtyard and friendly service. The tasty Caucasian dishes come in generous portions.
Café KristallRUSSIAN$$
(Кафе Кристалл
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Karachaevskaya 103; meals R250-350; h9am-midnight)
As well as the usual Russian dishes and shashlyk this place specialises in Karachay cuisine, including various sausages. Specify weight (in grams) to avoid a hefty meal (and bill). Seating is outside, on a covered balcony overlooking the gushing river, or in the dining room.
7Shopping
Market stalls around the village and chairlift stations sell wool shawls, felt Georgian-style hats, woolly rugs and caps and bags of herbal 'mountain tea'.
8Information
Dombai Info (www.dombai.info) Outdated on hotels and the like, but with some nonperishable information and photographs.
Sberbank (Сбербанк
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Karachaevskaya 105; h9am-noon & 1-3pm Mon-Fri) Currency exchange and ATM. There's also an ATM outside Vershina Apartments.
Rescue Service (Спасательная Служба
GOOGLE MAP
; %87872-58 138; h24hr) Emergency help, plus guiding and/or advice on more technical hikes and climbs.
BORDER PERMITS
Unfortunately, if you show up to Dombay or Teberda without a proper propusk (permit), your hiking prospects will be limited and you'll not be able to see much beyond the villages themselves. Foreigners require border permits for anywhere other than the village environs and the Mussa-Achitara Ridge. Permit processing through the FMS office (Отделение Управления Федеральной Миграционной Службы
GOOGLE MAP
; %87879-22 260; Kyrdzhieva ul 1, Karachaevsk; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is generally painless, but can take up to 60 days. Set the wheels in motion by contacting a local tour agency at least three months before your visit.
8Getting There & Away
All marshrutky originate at the Ekspress grocery (Экспресc GOOGLE MAP ) in the southwest of town. The schedule is displayed in the shop window. The marshrutky also pick up passengers outside Vershina Apartments. Destinations include Cherkessk (R225, 3½ hours, daily at 8am and 11am) and Karachaevsk (R120, two hours, four daily).
All buses pass through Teberda (R45, 25 minutes) and Karachaevsk.
For Arkhyz, the fastest route is to take the marshrutka to Zelenchuk (R180, 2½ hours, departing 9am), where you can catch an onward marshrutka or taxi (from R600) to Arkhyz.
In ski season, frequent marshrutky shuttle people straight to Minvody airport (R700 per person).
A more expensive method of arriving is on a tour bus from Pyatigorsk or Kislovodsk (around R1200). Best of all is to hire a taxi to drive you over the Gum-bashi Pass.
Taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karachaevskaya) and 4WD to hire for day trips and transfers in and around Dombay wait opposite Sberbank.
Arkhyz Архыз
%87878 / Pop 505 / Elevation 1450m / Time Moscow
Famed throughout Russia for its mineral water, Arkhyz is a small, scruffy but not unattractive village surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Caucasus. The fast-flowing Bolshoy Zelenchuk River flows through the village, where you'll also find a souvenir market at the main crossroad. Around 8km down the road into the heart of the majestic mountains is the new Arkhyz ski resort with fast gondolas rising up from the 'Romantik' and 'Lunnaya polyana' areas.
DON'T MISS
EARLY CHRISTIAN SITES OF THE CENTRAL CAUCASUS
Some of the earliest Christian sites in Russia are to be found in the central Caucasus, where the medieval state of Alania once flourished. In Nizhny Arkhyz, an archaeological preserve surrounds the three Zelenchuksky Churches (Зеленчукский храм GOOGLE MAP ; Nizhny Arkhyz), originally built of stone in the 10th century and still in use today. A modern replica of a Byzantine stone chapel marks the spot on the main road from where pilgrims climb metal stairs to view Lik Khrista (Лик Христа GOOGLE MAP ; Nizhny Arkhyz), an ancient rock painting of the face of Christ, also known as the Arkhyz Saviour.
Around 7km north of Karachayevsk, on the way to or from Dombay, a dirt road leads uphill from the Ossetian village below to the early 10th-century Shoana Church. This remarkable stone building is perched on the edge of a cliff high above the Kuban River, providing spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.
2Activities
The speedy gondola at the Arkhyz Resort runs year round to whisk you up to 2240m for spectacular views of the Greater Caucasus mountains. During the ski season there are also two chairlifts (one with its base at Romantik and one at Lunnaya polyana) covering some 15km of groomed trails to suit all grades of skier.
There's night skiing (adult/child R900/500) on Friday and Saturday and you can rent all your gear for around R1500 from the main service centre.
Talk to guides in Dombay or Pyatigorsk about the many treks around here. For major expeditions into the mountains you’ll need a border permit – check well in advance with guides about this.
Rafting (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-389 4846; Krasnaya Skala, ul Beregovaya 4; R500 per person; hMay-Sep) and horse riding can be easily arranged.
4Sleeping
oPansionat EnergetikHOTEL$$
(Пансионат Энергетик
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-393 8777, 8-903-415 3087; www.arkhyz.com; ul Beregovaya 2; r incl breakfast from R1500; W)
Superbly maintained with some quirky retro interior design touches, the Energetik offers spacious rooms, all with balconies overlooking the rushing Bolshoy Zelenchuk River and nearby mountains. Wi-fi works best in the lobby and the set two-course meals in the stolovaya (cafeteria; lunch/dinner R300/250) are a bargain.
Bicycles are available for rent (R200/800 per hour/day) and the staff can also hook you up with trekking guides.
VertikalHOTEL$$
(Вертикаль
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-027 9962; http://arkhyz-vertical.ru; Turisticheskaya derevnya Romantik; s/d incl breakfast R2560/3200; aW)
So close to the gondola you could almost lean out of your bedroom window and touch it, the Vertikal offers the classiest accommodation at Arkhyz Resort. Rooms have modern furnishings and some contemporary art to liven up the walls. Facilities include a restaurant, a kids' playroom and a sauna.
RomantikHOTEL$$
(Романтик
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-909-493 2079; http://hotelromantik.ru; Turisticheskaya derevnya Romantik; s/d incl breakfast from R2700/4300; W)
At the base of Arkhyz ski resort, this modern hotel offers comfortable, functional rooms, as well as friendly staff. Rooms are split across two buildings with Romantic 1 being slightly more pricey than Romantic 2. Facilities include a billiard room, a kids' play area and a banya (R950 per hour).
5Eating
There are plenty of eating options at the resort, with the largest restaurant Tramplin 1650 (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-963-282 9990; Turisticheskaya derevnya Romantik; mains R450-550; hnoon-midnight; W) also acting as the main après-ski venue during the winter season. Dining in Arkhyz village is basic, limited to simple cafes serving Russian and Caucasian dishes.
8Getting There & Away
All marshrutky pause at the tiny bus station in the centre of Arkhyz village before continuing on to terminate at Arkhyz Resort. During the ski season there are many more services, but year round you can expect the following daily services:
APyatigorsk (R500; six hours) Leaves Arkhyz Resort at 2.30pm and Arkhyz village at 2.45pm, passing through Cherkessk and the airport, bus station and train station in Mineralnye Vody.
AKislovodsk (R430; five hours) Leaves Arkhyz Resort at 1.18pm and Arkhyz village at 1.30pm, and passes through Cherkessk.
For Dombay, catch the 10am marshrutka to Teberda (R300, 3½ hours) and transfer there or catch a taxi (R500).
Nalchik Нальчик
%8662 / Pop 240,200 / Elevation 550m / Time Moscow
The pleasant, traffic-prone capital of the Kabardino-Balkaria Republic straddles the rise of the steppes to the foothills of the Caucasus. Most visitors come through on their way to or from Mt Elbrus, but if you have some time to spare, there are a few things worth seeing, including a lush central park, an interesting museum and a chance for a side trip to the spectacular Cherek Valley.
In 2005 at least 14 people were killed and over 100 injured in fighting after Islamic militants took several government buildings. The last, much smaller-scale attack was in 2011, and currently Nalchik is a peaceful, busy commercial hub. You'll notice some increased security at the airport, train station and on the roads but there's little to worry about while visiting.
Two parallel main streets, pr Lenina and pr Shogentsukova, run southwest through the city centre from the train station on Osetinskaya ul. The airport and long-distance bus station are around 5km northeast of the centre, while the vast Central Park stretches down the city's southwest corner.
1Sights
Central ParkPARK
(Центральный Парк Культуры И Отдыха GOOGLE MAP )
The large Central Park of Culture and Recreation (to give it its full name) offers forest lushness, small green lakes with paddle boats, an amusement park and the scenic Nalchik River, where locals take a dip to cool off on hot days. To get there, walk or jump on marshrutka 1 or 17 heading west along pr Shogentsukova.
Inside the park is a chairlift (Kанатная дорога
GOOGLE MAP
; Central Park; R200; h9am-6.30pm), which ascends over a small lake to the hilltop Restaurant Sosruko (Ресторан Сосруко
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-272 0070; off Profsoyuznaya ul; mains R250-850; h11am-7pm May-Oct), an intriguing building designed as the head of local hero Sosruko with an outstretched arm and hand holding a flame. There are excellent views out to the nearby mountains from here.
Kabardino-Balkaria National MuseumMUSEUM
(Национальный музей Кабардино-Балкарской республики
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-773 942; http://museum-kbrglav.ru; ul Gorkogo 62; adult/child R150/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Local natural and man-made history is covered at this reasonably interesting museum. Labels are in Russian, but it's mainly a place for visual appreciation, with a good 3D topographical map of the mountains, colourful WWII propaganda posters, and art exhibits (some contemporary).
WORTH A TRIP
CHEREK VALLEY & UPPER BALKARIA
The Balkar are one of the two main ethnic groups of Karbadino-Balkaria. In 1944 all the Balkar, along with other Caucasus people, were banished to Central Asia, falsely accused of collaborating with the Nazis. When allowed to return in 1957, the new village of Upper Balkaria (Верхняя Балкария), 58km south of Nalchik, was established. This replaced 18 older villages, the ruins of which now dot the upper reaches of the spectacularly scenic Cherek Valley.
Aim for the restaurant Tau El (Тау Эль
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-707 2393; www.facebook.com/HCTauel; ul Taulyeva, Verkhnyaya Balkariya; mains R150-270; h9am-10pm), which serves delicious shashlyk, salads and the buttery khichiny (flat breads stuffed with meat or cheese). This wooden complex, set on the Cherek Balkarsky River, faces the ruins of the largest of the abandoned villages. In their attractive grounds is a re-creation of what the old stone village homes looked like, as well as a small hotel with excellent rooms (R2000), should you decide to stay overnight and explore more of the area. There's a suspension bridge across the river here, providing access to the ruined village, which also has one of the most intact watch towers in the valley.
A journey into the Cherek Valley can be combined with visits to the Aushiger Hot Spring and the Blue Lakes. You could charter a taxi for the day in Nalchik, or arrange a tour with Elbrus Elevation, with the option of cycling or hiking around 2km of the 125-year-old road into the valley, with vertigo-inducing views down the steep, narrow gorge.
2Activities
oElbrus ElevationADVENTURE
(%8-938-693 1514; http://elbruselevation.com)
This new Nalchik-based adventure tour agency is a joint venture between American Shannon and Karbadian Zaur. Apart from climbs up Elbrus and ski tours at Dombay and Arkhyz, they also have great itineraries into the Cherek Valley including hiking or cycling. Among other activities they can arrange in the region are paragliding, ziplining and caving.
Aushiger Hot SpringHOT SPRINGS
(Аушигер Горячий бассейн
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928-081 9110; Aushiger Village; adult/child R100/50; h7am-9pm)
This large open-air swimming pool, 31km southeast of Nalchik, is filled with naturally warm water from the local hot spring. Locals swear by its medicinal properties. It's best experienced in the winter when you can sit in the warm pool surrounded by snow. Marshrutky (R50) leave for here from Nalchik's Zeleniy Bus Station, or take a taxi (R500).
4Sleeping
RGK TrekHOTEL$$
(РГК Трек
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-720 612; www.trek.web-box.ru; Gorodskoy Park; r incl breakfast from R2600; aW)
Beside the river flowing down the east side of Central Park, this attractive hotel and restaurant complex has spacious rooms with queen-size beds, sparkling modern bathrooms (some with Jacuzzi baths) and big windows to take in the surrounding greenery.
Hotel RossiyaHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Россия
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-775 378; www.hotelrussia07.ru; pr Lenina 32; s/tw incl breakfast R2000/2500; aW)
In the middle of town, opposite the musical theatre, the five-storey Rossiya has small but nicely renovated rooms with parquet floors, narrow single beds and big windows. The reception staff speak a little English.
SindicaSPA HOTEL$$
(Синдика
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-492 626; http://spahotelsindica.ru; s/d from R3000/3500; nWs)
Quite a way south of the city centre, but still within walking distance of the vast central park, is this reasonable, large Soviet-era hotel that's undergone some upgrading. The standard rooms bear the hallmark of regimes past but facilities get better the more you pay.
5Eating
TamerisTURKISH$
(Тамерис
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-401 721; www.tameris.ru; pr Kuliyeva 3; mains R140-200; h9am-10pm)
Not far from Nalchik's soccer stadium, this pleasant modern cafe offers a selection of dishes from Turkey, as the owners once lived there. Also on the photo-menu are Russian and Kabardian food, as well as some delicious cakes.
Central MarketMARKET$
(Центральный рынок
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Tolstogo 94; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Browse the aisles of fruit, vegetables, cheeses and fresh-baked flat bread to the ubiquitous strains of lezginka dance music in the central market, an ideal place for putting together a picnic.
Arabic HomeMIDDLE EASTERN$$
(Арабик Хоум
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-776 499; http://arabic-home.ru; ul Lenina 52; mains R250-400; hnoon-midnight)
If you can't face another khachapuri, head to stylish Arabic Home. Relax on a comfy sofa or take a window seat with a view of central Nalchik as you enjoy freshly made hummus and tasty falafel.
7Shopping
Balkarskiy MarketMARKET
(Балкарский Рынок
GOOGLE MAP
; off Kanukoeva; h8am-3pm)
Also known as the 'wool market', this is the place to shop for local products made from wool and fur, such as shawls, blankets, rugs and spectacularly shaggy hats. You're sure to find bear skins and stuffed animal heads here, too. The riverside location and shashyk stands make it a good place for an alfresco lunch.
Adyge UneARTS & CRAFTS
(Адыгэ Унэ
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-426 171; pr Lenina 49; h9am-7pm)
This excellent souvenir shop specialises in local Karabardian and Circassian items including fur hats, traditional clothing, pottery and beautifully wrought Dagestani silver jewellery.
8Information
UFMS (УФМС по Кабардино-Балкарской Республике
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-777 536; ul Nogmova 64; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) You can secure border permits here – though the wait time is currently 60 days. It’s easier to do so in advance through a travel agent in the Elbrus area.
8Getting There & Away
From Nalchik Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8662-913 204; http://nalchik-airport.ru; ul Kabardinskaya 195) there's at least a daily connection to Moscow's Vnukovo airport, as well as three flights a week to Istanbul and twice a week to Antalya in Turkey.
Buses from long-distance bus station No 1 (Автовокзал № 1 GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gagarina 124) serve Mineralnye Vody (R250, two hours, eight daily), Pyatigorsk (R172, 1½ hours, 12 daily), Kislovodsk (R250, 2½ hours, four daily) and Terskol (R250, three hours, five daily). Another option to Terskol is to take a marshrutka to Tyrnyauz (R200, two hours) and transfer to a Terskol-bound marshrutka or taxi there.
From the train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Osetinskaya 132A) there are elektrichki to Mineralnye Vody (R250, three hours, three daily). The Moscow-Nalchik trains 61/62 (platskart/kupe from R4555/7715, 36 hours) pass through Rostov-on-Don (platskart/kupe from R2190/3581, 11 hours).
8Getting Around
Mashrutky depart from Zeleniy Bus Station (Зеленый Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pacheva 54) for local destinations, including Aushiger hot springs.
Elbrus Area Приэльбрусье
%86638 / Elevation 2085m (Terskol) / Time Moscow
Mt Elbrus rises imperiously on a northern spur of the Caucasus ridge at the end of the Baksan Valley. Surrounding it, and flanking the valley, are mountains that are lower in height but equally awe-inspiring.
Most visitors come for the challenge of climbing Europe’s highest peak, but there are dozens of fantastic, less-strenuous hikes in the area, and you can ski year-round on the higher reaches of Elbrus. If you're happy to pass on such activities, it's a pleasure to simply ride the cable cars and chairlifts, taking in the fresh air and stunning alpine views.
Mt Elbrus and its surrounding peaks and main resort villages all lie within the vast Prielbrusye National Park (Национальный парк Приэльбрусье), which has its office in the village of Elbrus, lower down the Baksan valley.
Closer to the mountains, you’ll first hit the bustling ski village of Cheget (Чегет), at the base of Mt Cheget. Next is Terskol (Терскол), the ramshackle administrative hub. About 3km beyond Terskol the valley ends at Azau (Азау) where cable cars rise up Mt Elbrus.
1Sights & Activities
DON'T MISS
MT ELBRUS
The two peaks of Mt Elbrus (Гора Эльбрус GOOGLE MAP ) – the western at 5642m and eastern at 5621m – bulge nearly 1000m above anything else in the vicinity. This volcanic cone has upper slopes reputedly coated in ice up to 200m thick; numerous glaciers grind down its flanks and several rivers start here. Although many come to climb or ski the mountain, cable cars carrying passengers as high as 3847m make it easygoing for those who just wish to admire the view.
The name ‘Elbrus’, meaning ‘Two Heads’, comes from Persian. In Balkar it’s ‘Mingi-Tau’ (meaning ‘thousands’, ie very big mountain). The first (unconfirmed) climb was in 1829 by a Russian expedition with Khillar Khachirov, a lone Karachay hunter hired as a guide, apparently reaching the peak on his own. The lower eastern peak was officially climbed on 31 July 1868 and the western peak on 28 July 1874, both by British expeditions. For propaganda purposes in Soviet times, there were mass ascents involving hundreds of climbers. A telephone cable was even taken to the top so Comrade Stalin could share the news.
Climbing Elbrus
The climb on Elbrus is not technically difficult, but it’s harder than, say, Mt Kilimanjaro, with which it is often compared. Climbing experience on ice is advisable, and a good degree of fitness is paramount.
The climbing season is between late May and October with July and August being the busiest months. Whatever the time of year, you don’t want to take this mountain lightly. As on any 5500m-plus peak, clear weather can quickly turn into thick fog or worse. On average, about 10 people perish on Mt Elbrus each year. Do the sensible thing and take a guide.
The climb itself takes just one long day, but most climbers require at least seven days of training and altitude acclimatisation before attempting the summit. Climbers typically spend a few days in Terskol or Azau before taking the lifts up to spend a few nights on the mountain for further acclimatisation.
The actual climb starts around 4am from one of two points: the Diesel Hut (also called Priyut 11) at 4130m, from where it’s a 10- to 12-hour hike to the summit; or the Pastukhov Rocks at 4700m, from where it’s a seven- to eight-hour hike. Both are accessible by snowcat from the Barrels. Most people start from Pastukhov Rocks.
Ascents above 3700m require a permit. These must be applied for in advance from the Elbrus Area National Park Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-78 620; http://elbruspark.com; ul Lesnaya 2, Elbrus; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri). Tour operators or local guides can also arrange these for you.
A useful website for further information is www.elbrus.net.
Skiing
The piste skiing on Elbrus is generally easier than on nearby Cheget, with terrain to suit all levels. The skiing beneath the lower cable-car station is good for beginners; there's also a kids' ski park next to the gondola base station. The uppermost cable car and chairlifts service a few steep and challenging runs for experts.
Year-round skiing is possible between Mir and Garabashi stations. From here snowcats bring advanced skiers a couple of hundred metres further up to the Diesel Hut, from where there are opportunities for off-piste skiing. These run regularly in the peak ski season (R1000 per person), but must be arranged in advance at other times – check with a local agency such as Elbrus Adventures.
An all-day ski pass for the gondola costs R2100. Gear can be hired at most hotels or at numerous ski shops in Azau, Terskol and Cheget.
Mt ChegetMOUNTAIN
(Гора Чегет GOOGLE MAP )
Expert skiers relish the moguls, steeps and glades offered by this ski area on the south side of the Baksan Valley. The piste occupies the lower reaches of 3461m Mt Cheget (Mt Donguz-Orunbashi).
Riding the chairlift (
GOOGLE MAP
; Cheget; round-trip R700, all-day pass R1200; hchairlift 1 9am-4pm, chairlift 2 9.30am-3.30pm) up to 3040m, the raw majesty of the surrounding mountains is quickly revealed. To the west are the smooth, milky-white twin humps of Mt Elbrus, to the east the jagged peaks and near-vertical sides of 4454m Mt Donguz-Orun (Mt Donguzorun-Chegetkarabashi), with a distinctive glacier shaped like the number seven plastered to its side.
Cable Cars & Chairlifts
Even hardcore climbers will take one or more of the cable cars part way up Mt Elbrus. For general sightseers, they are a must.
The original way up is the Elbrus Cable Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; Azau; Krurozor station R500, Mir station R800, chair lift R200; h9am-4pm) which transports around 30 people at a time in two stages to Mir station at 3450m. You can then ride a separate chairlift that goes up to 3680m. The system is cheaper and slower than the new Elbrus Gondola (
GOOGLE MAP
; Azau; Mir station adult/child R950/500, Garabashi station adult/child R1350/750; h9am-4pm). With the opening of Garabashi station at 3847m, this is not only the most elevated cable car in Russia but also in Europe. This is as close as you'll get to to Elbrus' summit without climbing and the stunning mountain range views are certainly worth it.
Both the cable cars and the gondola run year-round except at times of maintenance during late autumn and spring, when they typically close one day a week.
Tour buses start arriving at 10am from July to August, and the queues at the base and mid-stations can be brutal – waits of up to two hours are common at weekends.
Hiking
A couple of easy, two- to three-hour walks start on the dirt road that climbs out of Terskol opposite the mosque and towards the white obelisk commemorating WWII losses. The dirt road’s right fork leads up the Terskol Valley to a dramatic view of Mt Elbrus behind the hanging Terskol Glacier, dripping over a cliff edge. The left fork follows a 4WD track to an observatory (Международная обсерватория Пик Терскол GOOGLE MAP ; Terskol), with wonderful views across the Baksan Valley to Mt Cheget, Mt Donguzorun and Mt Kogutanbashi (3819m). Neither of these routes require permits.
From the top of Cheget’s lower chairlift, it’s about a one-hour walk around the side of the mountain to Donguz-Orunkel Lake (озеро Донгуз-Орункел GOOGLE MAP ). Check conditions before starting off (snow cover on the ground is likely until July) and enquire whether you might need a border permit.
The situation with regards to permits is changeable. Check locally on the latest requirements before you set out and be sure to carry your passport.
Any walks towards the Georgian border do require a border permit. It’s easiest to arrange permits in advance through a tour operator. Contact them at least 60 days before you plan to visit.
TTours
The best agencies are either active tour leaders or providers of specialist services for climbers, skiers and hikers. Most also offer ‘light’ packages for independent travellers, which include accommodation and logistical support, but no active tour guiding. English-, German- and French-speaking guides are usually readily available. Agencies can also help with visa and border-permit logistics and arrange guided climbs and treks of other mountains in the region.
As well as the following St Petersburg–based Wild Russia organises climbs of Elbrus using the less crowded northern route.
Viktor YanchenkoADVENTURE
(%8-928-225 4623; www.alpindustria-tour.ru)
German-speaking, Pyatigorsk-based Viktor has climbed Elbrus over 200 times. He also speaks a little English and works with other experienced guides as the local rep for Alpindustria Tours, a major Russian tour company and outdoor outfitters with a shop in Azau.
Go-ElbrusADVENTURE
(%8-928-915 6753; www.go-elbrus.com)
The German-Balkar couple in charge here are accomplished free skiers and mountaineers. Highly recommended for backcountry skiing trips, ski touring, ice climbing, Elbrus climbs and more creative ascents if you're looking for a private guide rather than a large tour.
Pilgrim ToursADVENTURE
(Pilgrim-Tours-Бюро путешествий
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-495-660 3501; www.pilgrim-tours.com; Hotel Semerka, Cheget)
This Moscow-based outfit is a large, efficient company that leads Elbrus climbs. Their local office is in Cheget.
Geographic BureauADVENTURE
(%8-812-230 5794; www.geographicbureau.com)
With nearly 30 years of experience, this St Petersburg–based tour company offers a range of Elbrus-related tours of between eight and 14 days, including ski tours and an intriguing Elbrus circuit.
Elbrus AdventuresADVENTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-800-775 6709; http://elbrusadventures.ru; Azau; h9am-6pm)
The office for this efficient tour company is next to the cable car. They can arrange pretty much all you need in Elbrus, from equipment rentals and guides to accommodation.
They are also the sole agent for LEAPrus 3912.
Mountain GuideADVENTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-906-433 3557; http://mountainguides.pro; beneath Alamat Hotel, Terskol)
Krasnodar-based Sergey Baranov is the chief guide at this mountaineering agency, which has plenty of experience running climbing tours of Elbrus.
4Sleeping & Eating
Expect to pay double to triple summer rates during the peak ski season (late December to early May). Also book well in advance for accommodation during July and August.
In the winter especially, you’ll find eating options aplenty on the ski slopes – everything from bundled-up babushkas hawking shashlyk, khichiny (flat bread with cheese and potato filling) and schorpa (Balkar lamb soup) to the fire-warmed restaurants at the cable-car stations on Elbrus.
Cheget Чегет
With a clutch of small hotels, slope-side cafes, market stalls and even an après-ski bar, Cheget is a more attractive proposition than Terskol, especially during the ski season.
Hotel LagunaHOTEL$$
(Отель Лагуна
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 651; www.elbruslaguna.ru; Cheget; r from R3000; W)
The most pleasant hotel in Cheget offers a good range of nicely decorated rooms and plenty of facilities including a laundry (R300), nice sauna and plunge pool (R1500 per hour) and the option of adding breakfast (R300) and dinner (R600) to your night's stay
PovorotHOTEL$$
(Поворот
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 663; www.povorot.ru; Cheget; s/d incl breakfast from R3000/3500; W)
This well-run hotel with English-speaking staff is popular with those who come to climb Mt Elbrus or hike in the area. Nicely furnished rooms have beautiful views of the surrounding countryside and amenities include a sauna and billiards.
The hotel can also arrange permits, provide guides and airport transfers.
NakraHOTEL$$
(Накра
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 297, 8-928-930 6681; www.nakrahotel.ru; Cheget; s/d from R1500/2000; W)
This stylish four-storey hotel has big, bright rooms and plenty of storage space for ski and snowboard equipment. It also has a good cafe, a sauna and a small plunge pool. Friendly staff can provide tips on hiking and arrange transfers to Nalchik and Min Vody.
Cafe AiRUSSIAN$
(Кафе Ай
GOOGLE MAP
; Mt Cheget; mains R250-650; h9am-3pm)
This friendly cafe at the first chairlift stop on Mt Cheget serves tasty Russian and Caucasian dishes, as well as homemade wine (R100 a glass) and souvenir T-shirts. Look out for notices advertising guide services on the wall as you come in.
Kapitan PitBAR
(Капитан Питъ
GOOGLE MAP
; h4pm-midnight)
The balcony in view of the ski mountain and Mt Donguzorun is a prime place to sink suds après-ski. They occasionally have live music.
Terskol Терскол
Terskol may not be pretty, but it has a good selection of accommodation and its central location allows for relatively easy exploration of both Cheget and Azau.
oBlack Point HostelHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-928 722 2432; www.facebook.com/Black-point-hostel-104067390100529; Terskol; dm/s/d from R500/1800/2400; nW)
Surrounded by pine trees, this black-painted wooden hostel has a hip, relaxed vibe with both spacious dorms and private rooms (a couple of luxury ones in a separate building were in the works when we visited). It's a breath of fresh air for the Elbrus accommodation scene and a great place to meet young climbers and skiers.
Hotel SalamHOTEL$
(Отель Салам
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 471; www.salam-terskol.ru; Terskol; d from R800; W)
On the main road in the centre of Terksol, this good-value hotel may not look much from the outside, but inside the rooms are comfy and cosy and improve on space and design the more you pay.
oKupolRUSSIAN$
(Кафе Купол
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-938-080 0243; http://cupolelbrus.com; mains R270-350; h9am-11pm; W)
Popular with climbers, this cafe is housed in a metallic cupola-shaped building and is decorated with photos from both Elbrus and Everest expeditions. Their minced-beef Elbrus cutlet (surrounded by a boiled-egg mince and with a deep fried potato coating) is tasty and calling out for Instagram.
Cafe ElbrusiyaRUSSIAN$$
(Кафе Эльбрусия
GOOGLE MAP
; %08-967-422 5646; www.elbrus07.ru; Terskol; mains R220-400; h8am-9.30pm)
Squaddies from the nearby military base favour this place for its sizzling platters of beef and potatoes covered in melted cheese and enormous pizzas (big enough for two). The menu also has a wider than average range of salads, soups and breakfast items (served until noon).
The attached hotel was under renovation when we last dropped by. There's also an ATM outside.
Azau Азау
Azau has a good range of accommodation with many new hotels. It's a better choice for intermediate skiers who want to be closer to Elbrus’ groomed slopes. Elbrus climbers also usually end up here for a night or two before moving up to the accommodation above 3000m.
oAzau Star HotelHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %08-964-032 6942; www.azaustar.ru; Azau; d incl breakfast from R4000; aWs)
Azau's fanciest hotel offers high-standard, European ski-chalet-style rooms with balconies. The luxury VIP rooms come with spectacular valley views from the bathtubs! Service and facilities are excellent and include a banya (free for guests to use in the mornings), ice rink in winter and climbing wall in summer.
Free RideHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 260; hotelfreeride@yandex.ru; Azau; s/d R800/1600; hcafe 8am-11pm)
A great budget choice that's next door to Azau's old cable car base station, Free Ride offers attractive modern rooms as well as a lively cafe and bar serving a good range of Russian and Caucasus dishes. Take a peak at the upstairs dining room covered in evocative old black-and-white photos of the local Balkar people.
Shakherezada HotelHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Шахерезада
GOOGLE MAP
; %08-962-653 1575, 86638-71 327; www.shaherezada-km.ru; r from R2000; W)
Offering big comfortable beds and highly patterned Middle Eastern–style furnishings, this is one of Azau's quirkier accommodation choices. It's steps from the new gondola up the mountain.
Mt Elbrus
No frills mountain huts and refuges on Mt Elbrus at or above 3800m include the Barrels (Бочки GOOGLE MAP ; dm R1000) and Diesel Hut (Дизель-Хат GOOGLE MAP ; dm R1000). Climbers use them as a base for acclimatisation before heading to the summit. Some operators have their own dedicated huts while spaces at others are limited, particularly in the high season for climbing during July and August, and should be booked via an agency. Be prepared for possibly sleepless nights as your head pounds from the lack oxygen.
oLEAPrus 3912HOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-800-775 6709; http://elbrusadventures.ru; dm incl full board R7500; W)
For a touch of luxury at 3912m, LEAPrus is worth splashing out on. There are 12 bunks in two barrel pods with a third pod for the dining room and a separate (heated) toilet block (but no shower). Other perks include electricity, wifi, satellite TV, three decent meals, a guitar and out-this-world views.
7Shopping
7 Summits ClubSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(Клуб 7 Вершин
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 717; info@7vershin-elbrus.ru; Cheget; h9am-7pm)
Just after the turn-off to Cheget on the way to Terskol, this well-stocked shop rents all manner of mountaineering and hiking gear.
Elbrus RentalSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-988-934 2644; http://elbrusrental.com; beneath Alamat Hotel, Terskol; h9am-9pm)
All your equipment needs for climbing or skiing on Elbrus and other surrounding mountains are satisfied here. The gear is high quality and new.
Also here is the local office for the Mountain Guide tour agency.
8Information
Beware of avalanches which hit the area with varying ferocity every few years or so – they are the cause of all the crooked trees you might see.
There are ATMs outside Pansionat Cheget (Пансионат Чегет
GOOGLE MAP
; %08-928-693 9723; Cheget; pW) in Cheget, Hotel Elbrusiya in Terskol, and next to the Elbrus Gondola in Azau.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; Terskol; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, until 5pm Sat)
Rescue Service (
GOOGLE MAP
; %86638-71 489; Terskol; h24hr) Check in here before setting out for hikes. Look for the letters ‘МЧС' on a fence near the Bayramuk cafe, a block west of the mosque.
For visas and border permits, go through one of the tour companies.
Elbrus (www.elbrus.net) Website with maps and practical information.
8Getting There & Away
Marshrutky run to Nalchik from Terskol (R250, three hours) at 8am, 8.30am, 9.30am and 12.30pm. Alternatively, take a taxi (R1000) to Tyrnyauz and then a frequent marshrutka to Nalchik (R200). Taxis to and from Min Vody cost around R4000, to Nalchik R3000.
Arrange with tour operators running out of Kislovodsk and Pyatigorsk to use their excursions as a means of getting to and from Elbrus. Buses leave from beside the military base in Terskol. They do not pass through Cheget proper but only by the access road.
8Getting Around
A taxi costs R200 from Terskol to Azau. Between Terskol and Cheget it's about 20 minutes' walk. In the ski season plenty of marshrutky and free shuttles operate between Cheget and Azau. Otherwise, walk or hitch a ride.
SOUTHEAST CAUCASUS
Why Does Lonely Planet not cover these areas?
While the security situation in Chechnya, Dagestan, Ingushetia and North Ossetia has improved, the region remains volatile, and government advisories continue to warn against travel here. Poverty and corruption have created a fertile recruiting ground for Islamic extremists and shoot-outs between security forces and militants are not uncommon. It's worth keeping this in perspective, though. Violent incidents, when they do occur, rarely involve tourists.
In Chechnya, the most notorious of the republics, former rebel fighter Ramzan Kadyrov has brought about an uneasy peace for his Kremlin masters. Both Kadyrov and his feared personal army have been accused of torture and murder, as well as other human rights violations, most recently the persecution of LGBT Chechens. Elements of Islamic law are very much in force.
What Is There to See?
Adventure and cultural tours into the region are being organised by local expert guides such as Caucasus Explorer (%8-499-653 9019; https://caucasus-explorer.com).
Dagestan, with a population made up of over 100 different ethnic groups, offers the 2000-year-old town of Derbent, listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site and graced by a magnificent ancient fortress. Other highlights include mountain villages such Rakhata, Gunib, Kubachi and Gotatl (the latter two famous for silverware), the sandy Caspian beaches and the 262m Sarykum dune, the highest in Europe.
Grozny, Chechnya's resurrected capital, boast modern skyscrapers that have locals comparing it to Dubai. You can also witness zikrs (sufi rituals) here.
Ingushetia is a spectacular hiking destination with medieval clan towers standing amid the graceful mountain landscape. The Ingush castle of Vovnushki rises from a steep cliffs on both sides of a narrow gorge. However, you will need to secure a border zone permit to access much of this area.
North Ossetian villages offer curious pagan rituals involving pies and sacred beer. Worthwhile destinations include the striking rock fortress of Dzivgis, medieval settlements in the Mamison valley, and a 'city of the dead' amid dramatic mountain scenery near the village of Dargavs.
Further Information
Human Rights Watch (www.hrw.org) remains a vocal defender of people’s right to live without fear in the Caucasus.