I have never been a big eater of desserts. My husband and many of my friends like to end a meal with something sweet. In reality, I think some of them—like many small children—consider the rest of the meal a foreword to the dessert.
This is not a baking book. There are a few baking recipes here; but I do think that I have created enough delicious and special recipes that the more conventional cakes and tarts will not be missed.
There are “ice creams” and sorbets at the end of the chapter.
Do take a look at the sauces on pages 198–99 and the superior waffle on page 16 as well.
I love meringues, and as they have no gluten or lactose they are a perfect snack for me. I don’t like them gooey or overly sweet and am uninterested in the fancy colored ones that have recently cropped up in the fancy pastry shops and French restaurants. I hope you will find these, which I developed recently, as addictive as I do. These are the meringues that I use lightly crushed to coat chunks of ripe but firm banana as a seduction.
4 egg whites, at room temperature
¼ cup sugar
Preheat the oven to 150°F with two racks inside. Cover each of two cookie sheets with a layer of parchment paper. Have ready a pastry bag with a ½-inch-diameter nozzle and set aside.
Place the egg whites in an electric mixer with a stainless-steel bowl and start to beat them slowly. Beat until frothy. Pour in the sugar and continue to beat. Increase the speed to the fullest. Beat until the egg whites are very stiff—when they hold stiff peaks.
Now move quickly or the mixture will not stay ideally firm: Spoon the stiff egg whites into the pastry bag. Squeeze out 2-inch-long strips of meringue onto the baking sheets so that they do not touch. Place both baking sheets in the oven and cook for 1½ hours.
Turn off the oven and leave the meringues undisturbed for about another hour. They should be crisp and dry without being colored. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and slide the meringues, still on their paper, onto a flat surface. Allow the meringues to cool to room temperature. Slide a metal spatula or thin ham slicer under the meringues to remove them from the paper.
Eat or store the meringues in an airtight box.
MAKES ABOUT 54 MERINGUES
These can be enjoyed alone or made into a layered dessert using the Chocolate Marsala Pudding (page 178) in between the meringue layers. The meringue can also be made into a savory snack; see Spicy Kisses (page 29).
4 egg whites, at room temperature
⅓ cup sugar
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
Preheat the oven to 250°F with one rack at the top and another in the middle. Cover each of two 12-×-15-inch cookie sheets with a layer of parchment paper. Have ready a pastry bag with a ½-inch-diameter nozzle and set aside.
Place the egg whites in an electric mixer and start to beat slowly. Beat until frothy. Slowly add the sugar. Increase the speed to the fullest. Beat until the egg whites are very stiff—when they hold stiff peaks. Fold in the espresso and cocoa powder.
Now move quickly or the mixture will not stay ideally firm: Spoon the stiff egg whites into the pastry bag. Either form as and cook as in the preceding recipe or use as a layer in a dacquoise.
Turn off the oven and leave the meringues undisturbed for 1½ hours. They should be crisp and dry. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and slide the meringues, still on their paper, onto a flat surface. Slide a metal spatula or thin ham slicer under the meringues to remove them from the paper. Eat or store the meringues in an airtight box.
MAKES ABOUT 54 MERINGUES
Many times in my career I have asked chefs for recipes—mostly without results. However, when good friends took me to lunch at the Wolseley restaurant on Piccadilly in London, I asked the pastry chef, Regis Negrier, for his recipe for amaretti. Much to my pleased surprise, the recipe arrived a week or so later by e-mail.
I felt like an idiot for not having thought of making amaretti for this book; but the chagrin was worth it. These are not your usual crisp, dry Italian kind but a truly luscious invention by a German chef, much more like macaroons. I had to modify the recipe slightly since his used prepared marzipan paste. Both it and the American almond paste available in tubes cannot be used due to the presence of wheat. I think that this variation is just about as good as the original.
1¾ cups slivered blanched almonds
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 egg white, at room temperature
1 tablespoon dried figs in ¼-inch dice (1 to 2 whole figs)
1 tablespoon dried apricots in ¼-inch dice (2 to 3 whole apricots)
1 tablespoon dried cranberries in ¼-inch dice
Put the almonds, corn syrup, ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon of the confectioners’ sugar, and the egg white in a food processor and process for 3 to 4 minutes, until well combined or the mixture looks like fine wet sand. Using a spatula, scrape the contents into a bowl and add the dried fruit. Mix well. Divide the mixture into 12 pieces and roll each piece into a ball using the palms of your hands. Roll the balls around in the remaining confectioners’ sugar until fully coated, then place them on a nonstick baking sheet.
Let the amaretti dry for at least an hour. Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the top third. Bake the amaretti for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
MAKES 12 AMARETTI
The purple, brown, or black fresh figs you find in America are actually the same variety but in different states of ripeness. Despite their unromantic name—Brown Turkeys—these figs are the most like the Mediterranean variety and are particularly good with rich meats and in desserts with creamy sauces. At their ripest in the fall—in the black stage—they tend to be fragile but richer in flavor. Use them in sauces or with ham. The purple or brown figs hold their shape better, so they are best for salads or eating out of hand.
These figs would welcome the Zabaglione (page 199).
12 medium or 16 small fresh black figs (¾ pound), stemmed
¼ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
One 2-inch piece vanilla bean, split lengthwise
⅜ cup fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons Marsala (optional)
Place the figs upright in a saucepan just large enough to hold them comfortably in one layer. Sprinkle with the sugar and pepper. Add the vanilla bean and the juices over the figs.
Cover the pan and slowly bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower the temperature and simmer very gently for 10 to 15 minutes for medium figs, 5 to 10 minutes for small, or until cooked through but not falling apart. Add the Marsala, if desired, and stir. Serve warm.
SERVES 4
Oddly, some of my favorite recipe ideas have come from mistakes. Of course, some mistakes have just yielded inedible messes. Over one weekend I got lucky. There was a flourish of rhubarb in the garden as part of the jungle that all the rain had produced. I sawed off—a bread knife works well—a few handfuls of stalks, discarding the poisonous leaves. I washed them, cut out the nasty bits, and trimmed off the root ends. I cut the stalks into ½-inch lengths and put them in a pot with sugar, mixed them up, and set them to cook. In the meantime I went back to the computer and forgot my rhubarb.
By the time I remembered, the mess was medium brown, and I had to poke and scrape to get the caramelized bits off the bottom and out of the corners. I was about to discard it when I stuck a finger in and took a small taste. To my shock and delight it was delicious. Consequently I have made it into a recipe. It’s worth trying. Stir and be a little more careful than I was. (If you have trouble cleaning the pot, try scouring it with coarse salt.) It makes a great dessert with a splash of coconut milk.
½ pound rhubarb, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch lengths (about 4 cups)
¾ cup sugar
Put the rhubarb and sugar into a 6-inch stainless-steel saucepan. Stir thoroughly. Set over medium heat for 5 minutes or until all the sugar is dissolved. If you are nervous about it scorching, add ½ cup water. Stir and cook at a slow boil for about 45 minutes, stirring from time to time. If there is a lot of water—there should be some juice—boil to dry slightly. That’s it.
MAKES 1½ CUPS; SERVES 6
Thorny, horny cactus hardly leaps to mind as a food. We have come to think of its distilled juices, tequila (made from agave) and—even better—mezcal, as ingredients in cold, fruity, and delightful drinks, although very good aged mezcal (made from maguey cactus) is perhaps better drunk on its own like a good Scotch or brandy.
However, prepared prickly pear cactus (agave) pads readily available in cans have been one of the great benefits of the explosion of Mexican immigration to the United States. The pads are commonly served in salads (see page 67). They should be washed before use.
Agave nectar has been slower to make its way north of the border. It is a sweet syrup that can be used to replace sugar and honey.
Many health claims have been made for these cactus products, including their miraculous ability to cure a hangover.
This dessert is cool, white, and sweet—a make-ahead summertime pleasure. What is more, the contents can be kept on the shelf. The amaranth seeds are optional but attractive.
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
2 cups coconut milk
½ teaspoon amaranth seeds (optional)
4 teaspoons agave nectar
Dissolve the gelatin in 1 cup of the coconut milk. Heat the mixture in a small saucepan until the gelatin is completely dissolved, less than a minute. Whisk the warm coconut milk into the remaining 1 cup coconut milk. Pour the mixture into a 7- or 8-inch square baking pan. Refrigerate until firm to the touch, about 2 hours.
Place a 10-inch skillet over high heat. Allow the pan to get hot (a hand held over the pan should feel the heat) and scatter the amaranth evenly over the pan. The grains should start popping almost immediately and will increase in size and turn bright white. Set the popped amaranth aside.
Cut the coconut custard into cubes, and divide them evenly among four small bowls. Drizzle 1 teaspoon agave nectar and scatter some popped amaranth over each portion.
SERVES 4
This satisfying pudding owes its silky smooth texture to the same principles as classic mayonnaise. The chocolate and Marsala add a deep, rich flavor that’s not too sweet. I use half a recipe as filling between discs of Mocha Meringues (page 174). Using a chocolate with a higher cacao content will result in a more bitter pudding.
1½ cups safflower oil
2¼ ounces shaved (grated) 70% dark (not milk) chocolate
⅓ cup sugar
3 egg yolks
¼ cup dry Marsala
Warm the oil in a 2-cup glass measure in the microwave for 30 seconds. Dissolve the chocolate and sugar in the oil. Place the yolks in a food processor and mix until well blended. With the machine running, add the oil in a thin stream and process until thoroughly incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the Marsala and mix until just combined.
MAKES 2 GENEROUS CUPS
I’m surprised and delighted by the number of sweets and desserts that I have been able to come up with sans flour and dairy. With this one I had help. Our good friend Dr. Nersessian—a very good cook—came up with the first version of this to give me a dessert without the bad things. I have fiddled with it a bit. It has been a great success with all who have tasted it. A chocolate version follows.
½ teaspoon safflower oil
1 cup whole roasted unsalted almonds
1 cup whole walnuts
⅓ cup sugar
2 egg whites
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Grease a 7- or 8-inch square baking pan with the oil. Set aside. Place the nuts in a food processor and chop until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Put the contents into a small mixing bowl. Stir in the sugar and egg whites. With a spatula, scrape the contents of the bowl into the oiled pan and press into an even layer. Bake for 1 hour for soft cookies or 1½ hours for crisp cookies. Remove from the oven. Allow to cool. Cut into 1¾- or 2-inch squares.
MAKES 16 SQUARES
VARIATION
Chocolate Yum Yums
Even though these are simply a chocolate version of the Yum Yums, everyone seems to think that they are brownies. Yum.
Melt 2½ ounces of 70% dark—not milk—chocolate in a double boiler. Add to the mixing bowl after the sugar and egg whites. Proceed as directed.
This is an indulgent bit of heaven. Make it for your chocolate-addicted friends. A small portion goes a long way. It is very rich. The light crispness of the meringue layers contrasts brilliantly with the creamy—no cream—pudding. This makes a four-layer pastry.
4 egg whites, at room temperature
⅓ cup sugar
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
½ recipe Chocolate Marsala Pudding (page 178)
Preheat the oven to 250°F with one rack in the top and another in the middle. Cover two 12-×-15-inch cookie sheets with a layer of parchment paper. Have ready a pastry bag with a ½-inch-diameter nozzle and set aside.
Place the egg whites in an electric mixer and start to beat slowly. Beat until frothy. Slowly add the sugar. Increase the speed to the fullest. Beat until the egg whites are very stiff. Fold in the espresso and cocoa powders.
Now move quickly or the mixture will not stay ideally firm: Spoon the stiff egg whites into the pastry bag. Pipe the meringue onto one half of one of the cookie sheets in a continuous spiral, starting from the center, until the round is about 6 inches in diameter. Make another meringue round on the same sheet and two more on the other sheet. Place both in the oven and bake for 45 minutes.
Turn off the oven and leave the meringues undisturbed for another 4½ hours. They should be crisp and dry. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and slide the meringues, still on their paper, onto a flat surface. The rounds will easily come off the parchment paper. Place one round flat and spread ⅓ cup pudding on top. Cover with another meringue round and repeat with the remaining pudding and rounds. Cut into wedges to serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
When I first started to cook, I looked at books—which was how I knew how to learn. For years I made the mousse from Dione Lucas’s Le Cordon Bleu Cook Book. Now I have come up with my own simple and airy mousse that satisfies even my Viennese-born husband. It is still very rich, and a small amount is satisfying.
Use fresh organic eggs to avoid any health problems.
1 cup Chocolate Sauce (page 199), at room temperature
4 egg whites, at room temperature
Place the chocolate sauce in a medium bowl. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold a third of the egg whites into the chocolate sauce, then repeat with the remaining whites. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours.
MAKES 3 CUPS
I have always made and enjoyed Bavarian creams. Usually they include whipped cream. I have been able to avoid it here to stunning effect.
Use fresh organic eggs to avoid any health problems.
6 cups fresh blackberries (about four 5½-ounce containers), plus extra for serving (see Note)
1 cup sugar
1 tablespooon unflavored gelatin (one and a half ¼-ounce packets)
1 cup coconut milk
3 eggs, separated
8 cups crushed ice or ice cubes
Combine the blackberries and sugar in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the berries are very soft and mushy and have thrown off a generous amount of juice.
Remove from the heat and transfer to a large sieve with fine holes or a chinois set over a large mixing bowl. Using a wooden spoon, press the softened berries against the holes of the sieve to garner the crushed fruit and juices while removing the seeds and skins. You can help the process by periodically scraping the outside of the sieve with a rubber spatula. The cooked berries should produce 2 cups of juicy purée. Let the purée cool to room temperature.
In a microwave-safe glass measuring cup, sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup cool water and let sit until the gelatin dissolves and the water becomes gelatinous, about 5 minutes. Cook in the microwave for 30 seconds, which will return the combination to liquid form. Let cool to room temperature.
In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, whisk the coconut milk with the egg yolks until combined and smooth. Place the pan over medium-low heat and, stirring constantly, cook until somewhat thickened and the surface begins to appear more opaque, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat but continue to stir until the soft custardlike mixture cools to body temperature, about 10 minutes.
In a separate and completely clean large mixing bowl, beat the egg whites, using an electric mixer with the whisk attachment. Beat at medium-low speed until the whites become frothy. Then increase the speed to high and whisk until the whites form stiff peaks but are not yet dry.
In an 8- to 10-quart metal mixing bowl, stir the blackberry purée with the gelatin mixture. Add the cooled custard and stir until smooth.
Fill a large glass or metal mixing bowl halfway with crushed ice or ice cubes and place the metal bowl containing the blackberry mixture on top of the ice. Continue filling the larger bowl with ice so that it comes up the sides of the smaller bowl and chills its surfaces. Immediately begin stirring the fruit mixture with a spatula, scraping the mixture from the sides of the cold bowl and also deep to the bottom of the bowl. It will gradually begin to thicken, becoming heavy. This step takes about 10 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the ice container and dump the egg whites all at once into the metal bowl. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the egg whites into the fruit mixture, periodically turning the bowl so that all the egg whites are gradually incorporated into the fruit.
Chill a metal mold or bowl with crushed ice or ice cubes for at least 5 minutes, until icy cold. Discard the ice and pour the finished Bavarian cream mixture into the prepared mold. Smooth the top with the edge of a spatula. Cover and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 2 hours.
To unmold, dip the mold into a bowl of hot tap water to loosen the sides. Cover with a serving plate and invert. Carefully remove the mold. Serve with extra blackberries.
SERVES 6
NOTE
Other berries can be used.
These are a delightful alternative to the gluten- and dairy-laden doughnut hole.
Safflower oil for deep-frying
½ cup chestnut flour
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon coconut milk
1 egg, separated
Pour oil 3 inches deep into a 4-quart saucepan. Place the pot over medium heat and bring the oil to 300°F. While the oil is heating, combine the flour, coconut milk, ¼ cup water, and the egg yolk in a medium bowl.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg white or beat it in an electric mixer until it forms stiff peaks. Using a flexible spatula, fold the white into the chestnut batter, then set the bowl aside.
Constantly monitor the oil temperature to make sure that it stays at 300°F. To fry, drop 1 teaspoon at a time into the oil using a heat-resistant plastic spoon. Fry for 30 seconds, then flip over and fry for 20 seconds, until golden brown. Work carefully to avoid getting burned. Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon and place on a paper-towel-lined plate.
These can be tossed in sugar or served plain and enjoyed immediately or at room temperature.
MAKES 30 TO 35 PIECES
These golden fried puffs can be prepared as a treat or as a savory snack—as in the variation—worthy of any cocktail party. The sweet preparation in the main recipe is a delight on its own or with fruit or sorbet. The hint of paprika in the savory preparation adds another dimension of flavor that makes these little bites an ideal companion to wine or beer.
Safflower oil for deep-frying
½ cup garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon coconut milk
1 egg, separated
2 tablespoons sugar, plus more for garnish
Pour oil 3 inches deep into a 4-quart saucepan. Place the pot over medium heat and heat the oil to 375°F.
While the oil is heating, combine the flour, coconut milk, ¼ cup water, the egg yolk, and the sugar in a medium bowl.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg white until it forms stiff peaks. Using a spatula, fold the whites into the chickpea batter, then set the bowl aside. Continue to maintain the oil temperature at 375°F. For frying, scoop 1 teaspoon of the batter into a heat-resistant plastic spoon and drop the batter toward the sides of the pot, making sure to dip the spoon into the oil as you drop the batter. If these steps are ignored, the result will be flat discs rather than round bonbons. Fry for 30 seconds, then flip over and fry for 15 to 20 seconds, until golden brown. Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon and place on a paper-towel-lined plate.
Enjoy hot or warm. If need be, hold in a low oven, or allow to cool and fry again when ready to serve. Toss in sugar.
MAKES 30 TO 35 BONBONS
VARIATION
Spicy Chickpea Bonbons
Replace the sugar with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon hot paprika. Proceed as directed. Toss with additional paprika.
This invention was inspired by an Austro-Hungarian classic made, of course, with ordinary flour. I think that the nutty sweetness of the chestnut flour is equally satisfying. The apricot filling between the layers is a classic, but it might be equally good with melted sweetened dark chocolate. This is a very rich torte, so a little goes a long way.
The pancakes are fragile. Handle with care.
APRICOT FILLING
1 vanilla bean (2 to 3 inches long)
½ cup dried apricots (about 3 ounces)
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
PANCAKES
3 tablespoons safflower oil
½ cup chestnut flour
¼ cup teff flour
¾ cup coconut milk
2 eggs
MAKE THE FILLING: Break the vanilla bean into pieces into ½ cup water in a 2-cup glass measure. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 30 seconds. Pierce the plastic with the tip of a sharp knife to release steam. Remove the cup from the oven and add the remaining filling ingredients.
Re-cover tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 3½ minutes. Pierce the plastic with the tip of a sharp knife to release steam. Discard the vanilla bean. Using a spatula, scrape the contents of the cup into a food processor. Purée until smooth. Allow the mixture to cool.
MAKE THE PANCAKES: Whisk together 1 tablespoon of the oil and the remaining pancake ingredients in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Heat 1 teaspoon of the remaining oil in an 8- or 9-inch nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, reduce the heat to medium-low. Starting on the outer edge and working toward the middle, pour ¼ cup of batter into the pan, spreading it with a spatula to make a 6-inch crêpe. Cook for 2 minutes or until the edges are golden brown and the surface is completely dry, then carefully flip over with a spatula. Cook for 2 minutes, then slide onto a baking sheet. Repeat, using a teaspoon of oil for each pancake. Make sure to spread the pancakes out in a single layer on the baking sheet(s) so they overlap as little as possible while cooling. There will be six total.
Place one pancake on a serving plate. Spread evenly with 1 tablespoon of apricot purée, leaving a ½-inch border around the edge. Repeat with four more pancakes. Top the cake with the last pancake. Slice the cake with a sharp serrated knife.
MAKES ONE 6-LAYER CAKE; SERVES 4 TO 6
Well, here we get to the sorbets and some frozen desserts that resemble ice cream.
I heartily recommend the purchase of an electric sorbet machine with a removable bowl. Once it’s on hand, it will actually be used. Keep a fair amount of Simple Syrup (page 184) on hand to make impulse desserts possible. The syrup needs to be refrigerated until cold before use.
Look at the sauces on pages 198–99 if you want to gussy up your dessert. The meringues (page 174), the Yum Yums (page 178), and the Bonbons (page 181) are possible accompaniments.
This ice cream goes against all convention and actually tastes better after being in the freezer for a few days or weeks rather than when eaten fresh.
1 pound bananas, peeled and sliced (2 cups)
¼ cup coconut milk
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup fresh lime juice
Place the bananas, coconut milk, sugar, and lime juice in a food processor and blend until smooth. Using a spatula, scrape the mixture into an ice cream maker and churn for 35 minutes.
MAKES 1 QUART
This may be one of the world’s most expensive desserts. It is well worth it when the fruit is in season—usually in our spring. The fruit has a tough skin that needs to be cut to be peeled away. Inside the fruit will be white and look much like lychees. It has numerous pits.
2½ pounds fresh mangosteens, peeled, pitted, and cut into chunks (about 2 cups)
¼ cup coconut milk
¼ cup sugar
Place the mangosteen chunks, coconut milk, and sugar in a food processor and blend until smooth. Using a spatula, scrape the mixture into an ice cream maker and churn for 35 to 40 minutes.
MAKES 1 PINT
I have gotten to the point at which I am almost tempted to swear at very decent and kind wait staff in restaurants who are aware of my dietary peculiarities and tell me sweetly that there are lovely sorbets and fresh fruit. That is the response in almost every restaurant. The fact that I can also have these at home does not make the restaurant versions more appealing.
I do in fact make sorbets—very good ones, because fresh is better. I have gone so far as to buy excellent sorbet machines that self-chill. I put the sorbet into one as we sit down to eat, and it is finished in time to be dessert. I include some of my favorites here. The basic rule is simple: one part—say 4 cups—of puréed fruit to an equal amount of simple syrup. Often, I add some lemon juice, particularly when using purée put up and jarred in the summer. The juice freshens up the taste.
If the sorbet isn’t perfectly smooth, call it “granite” and enjoy.
This purée can be the base for a refreshing summer sorbet. I use many things out of the garden or in plentiful, cheap supply from the farmers’ market to make sorbets (pages 185–87). I often freeze them to have on hand to make it easy.
1½ pounds peaches, pitted and cut up, unpeeled
½ cup sugar
Stir the peaches and sugar together in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce to simmer. Cook, stirring from time to time, until the peaches are almost mush, about 1 hour. Put through the fine disc of a food mill.
MAKES ENOUGH TO MAKE 6 PINTS SORBET
This is light, fresh, and delicious, but it doesn’t follow the general rules for sorbet. Think of it as smoothly frozen lemonade. It is a very pale yellow—almost white. A sprig of mint would not be amiss. I prefer Meyer lemons.
1 cup sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 6 to 8 lemons)
Bring the sugar and 3 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer until all the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Refrigerate until cold. Stir in the lemon juice and pour into a sorbet machine or use one of the methods opposite.
MAKES 4 CUPS
This is one of my favorites. It comes out almost white and fluffy. Save the unused parts of a large pineapple for another day, or cut in chunks to go with sorbet.
1 pineapple (3½ to 4 pounds), peeled, cored, and cut into 2-inch chunks (5 to 6 cups)
3 cups Simple Syrup (opposite)
Fresh lemon juice to taste
Place the pineapple chunks in a food processor and process until the purée is smooth and has no visible chunks. Add the simple syrup and lemon juice and mix until combined. Finish in a sorbet machine, or use one of the methods opposite.
MAKES 1 QUART
Years ago, I included a chocolate sorbet with rum in The Four Seasons Cookbook. Here I have substituted Triple Sec for a slight jolt of orange. The sorbet is so rich that I fear no one believes there is no cream.
6 ounces unsweetened chocolate (about 70% cacao)
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons Triple Sec
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Chop the chocolate into very small pieces, either in a food processor or with a knife. In a saucepan, bring the chocolate, 2 cups water, and the sugar to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring all the while, or until the mixture is completely smooth. Let cool to room temperature and add the Triple Sec and vanilla.
Finish in a sorbet machine or use one of the methods on page 184.
MAKES 2½ CUPS
The one time of the year that many people cook and also think of cranberries is Thanksgiving. While it is better to cook and think of cranberries at least once annually, it is truly a shame that we don’t cook cranberries more often. This sensational sorbet can be a refreshing and beautiful end to any midwinter meal. It looks particularly nice when served in Champagne glasses. I serve it with a few cookies and am happy.
2 juice oranges
One 12-ounce bag cranberries (about 3½ cups)
2 cups Simple Syrup (page 184)
Using a vegetable peeler, remove six 2-inch strips of zest from the oranges. Juice the oranges to get ½ cup juice.
Combine the cranberries, orange juice, zest, and ¼ cup of the syrup in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer over very low heat for 40 minutes or until the cranberries have almost completely liquefied. Put the mixture through a food mill fitted with the fine-hole disc. Stir in the remaining 1¾ cups syrup and 1 cup water. Chill, covered, until cold, about 2 hours. The recipe can be done ahead up to this point.
Finish in a sorbet machine or use one of the methods on page 184.
MAKES 5½ CUPS
The reddish Hawaiian papayas now on the market make this sorbet particularly attractive.
2 medium papayas, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks
1 cup Simple Syrup (page 184)
Juice of 3 limes
Purée the papaya in a food processor until smooth. There should be about 1½ cups purée. Add the syrup and lime juice.
Finish in a sorbet machine or use one of the methods on page 184.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
This is a lot lighter and a lot cheaper and easier than the Mangosteen Ice Cream (page 183). It is perfect for lunch on a hot summer’s day. The whole kitchen will smell delightfully of the juice as it reduces.
Those who want a little extra jazz can pour a little potato vodka over each portion. It is even possible to make this into a drink by using a Champagne glass and more vodka or Champagne.
Four 12-ounce cans mangosteen juice
Pour all the juice into a medium saucepan over low heat. Reduce by half, which will take about 30 minutes. Pour the reduced juice into an ice cream maker and process for about 35 minutes.
Finish in a sorbet machine or use one of the methods on page 184.
MAKES 4 CUPS
