WESTERN ESTONIA & THE ISLANDS
One of the Baltic’s most alluring regions, the west coast of Estonia encompasses forest-covered islands, verdant countryside and seaside villages slumbering beneath picturesque medieval castles.
Pine forests and juniper groves cover Saaremaa and Hiiumaa, Estonia’s largest islands. Quiet roads loop around them, passing unpeopled stretches of coastline broken by historic lighthouses and old wooden windmills – both emblems of the islands. Saaremaa also boasts spa resorts, a magnificent castle and a pretty ‘capital’ that comes to life during the summer months. It’s also the departure point for the wildlife-rich islands of Vilsandi National Park. Muhu and Vormsi are the islands’ smaller, quieter cousins.
On the mainland, Haapsalu is an enchanting, partly faded town that was once a resort for 19th-century Russian aristocrats seeking the benefits of its healing mud. The jewel of its Old Town is a 14th-century bishop’s castle, today the setting for open-air festivals and summer concerts.
Haapsalu
POP 9675
Set on a forked peninsula that stretches into Haapsalu Bay, this quaint resort town, 100km from Tallinn, makes a fine stopover en route to the islands. Haapsalu has a handful of museums and galleries, and a few rather modest spa hotels, but the town’s biggest attraction is its striking castle. A bit rough around the edges, Haapsalu’s Old Town is more rustic than urban, with wooden houses set back from the narrow streets, a slender promenade skirting the bay and plenty of secret spots for watching the sunset.
Those seeking mud or spa treatments might opt for Haapsalu over Pärnu or Kuressaare, though the centres here are a bit more proletarian. Nevertheless, Haapsalu lays claim to superior mud, which is used by health centres throughout Estonia.
History
Like other Estonian towns, Haapsalu has changed hands many times since its founding. The German Knights of the Sword conquered this region in 1224, and Haapsalu became the bishop’s residence, with a fortress and cathedral built soon afterwards. The Danes took control during the Livonian War (around 1559), then the Swedes had their turn in the 17th century, but they lost it to the Russians during the Great Northern War in the 18th century.
The city flourished under the tsars, mostly because of mud. Once the curative properties of its shoreline were discovered in the 19th century, Haapsalu transformed into a spa centre. The Russian composer Tchaikovsky and members of the Russian imperial family visited the city for mud baths. A railway that went all the way to St Petersburg was completed in 1907. In Soviet times, Haapsulu was closed to foreigners.
1Sights & Activities
Haapsalu Episcopal CastleCASTLE
(map Google map; Haapsalu piiskopilinnus; www.haapsalulinnus.ee; Lossiplats 3; adult/reduced €12/7; 
h10am-6pm daily mid-May–mid-Sep, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Sep–mid-May)
Haapsalu’s crumbling heart is its bishop’s castle, which was western Estonia’s centre of command from the 13th to the 16th centuries but now stands in partial, very picturesque ruins. A turreted tower, most of the outer wall and some of the moat still remain. Entry to the grounds is free year-round, but a ticket is required to enter the castle proper, where there’s a museum devoted to its history, including some creepy tunnels and dramatically displayed medieval weaponry.
Accessed from within the museum is the striking Dome Church (properly, St Nicholas’ Cathedral), built in a mix of the Romanesque and Gothic styles, with three inner domes. It’s the largest such structure in the Baltics and its phenomenal acoustics means concerts are regularly held here. Inside the church, keep your eyes peeled for the ghost of the White Lady.
In summer, the park within the outer walls is used for concerts. There’s a wonderful children’s playground complete with a pirate ship, and a viewing platform within one of the towers. You can also try your hand at archery just outside the main gate (€5 for 10 arrows).
Ilon’s WonderlandGALLERY
(map Google map; Iloni Imedemaa; 
%5836 2803; Kooli 5; €6; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun Sep-May; 
c)
Showcasing the works of Estonian-Swedish illustrator Ilon Wikland, who spent her childhood in Haapsalu and is best known for her illustrations for the Pippi Longstocking books, this gallery is fabulously set up for kids, with many artworks hung at their viewing level, plus opportunities to get crafty, play, and watch a film on the eponymous illustrator.
Haapsalu KuursaalHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; %5646 2466; www.kuursaal.ee; Promenaadi 1; hnoon-10pm May-Sep)
This fairy-tale wooden confection, painted pale green and white, sits plumb on the waterfront, surrounded by rose gardens. Stepping into the airy spa hall (1897) is like stepping back into Haapsalu’s fin-de-siècle heyday, with a small stage at one end (used for concerts and events) and a summertime restaurant at the other (mains €9 to €11). The ambience trumps the food, but it’s certainly worth checking out.
Town Hall MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; Raekoda muusem; %473 7665; www.salm.ee; Kooli 2; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun Sep-Apr, 11am-5pm daily May)
Built in 1775, Haapsalu’s former town hall now houses a charming little museum with displays on the history of the resort town, regional history, a re-created pharmacy and the well-preserved mayor’s office. Booklets cover gaps in the English-language information offered.
St John’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(http://haapsalu.eelk.ee; Kooli 4; h9am-5pm Mon, Fri & Sun)
Although it has its roots in the 16th century, the exterior of this whitewashed church owes much to a renovation in 1858. Inside, look out for the sculpted reliefs above the altar (dating from 1630) and the carved pulpit.
Birdwatching TowerVIEWPOINT
(map Google map; Linnuvaatlustorn Tagalahe ääres)
Broad, shallow, reedy Haapsalu Bay is a key habitat for migrating waterfowl in Estonia, and is listed as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance. During their spring and autumn migrations, as many as 20,000 birds descend. If you know your gadwalls from your grebes and fancy a gander at a goosander, head up the birdwatching tower, just seaward of the junction of Jaandi and the southern end of Promenaadi. You may even see circling white-tailed eagles.
PromenaadiWATERFRONT
Nineteenth-century Russian toffs, like their counterparts in Victorian England and Paris’ belle époque, liked nothing more than a good see-and-be-seen promenade, and the premier strolling route was along the waterfront. Sculptures dating from Haapsalu’s fashionable era are scattered along the promenade, including a sundial and a bust commemorating mud-cure pioneer Dr Karl Abraham Hunnius, and the symphony-inscribed Tchaikovsky Bench (map Google map; Tshaikovski pst), erected in 1940.
Museum of the Estonian SwedesMUSEUM
(Rannarootsi muuseum; %473 7165; www.aiboland.ee; Sadama 32; adult/child €3/2.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun & Mon)
Railway & Communication MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; Raudtee- ja Sidemuuseum; %473 4574; www.salm.ee; Raudtee 2; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun Sep & May, 11am-5pm Fri-Sun Oct-Apr; 
p)
Haapsalu’s attractive former train station, with its wooden-lace ornamentation and grand colonnade, opened in 1907 to transport the Russian nobility to the resort. Designed to keep the royals dry, its 214m-long covered platform was then said to be the longest in the empire. This boxcar-sized museum records the golden years of train travel, and there are antique locomotives to explore outside. Six times a day in summer, a road train runs between here and Old Town (€5).
Paralepa Forest ParkBEACH
(map Google map; %rowboat rental 5660 3144; Ranna tee 2; rowboat per hour €8)
On the western edge of town, beyond the train station, this shady park has a popular beachfront which, despite being a bit swampy, attracts plenty of sunseekers. There’s a 3km and a 5km walking path through the forest, and in summer there’s a cafe and a kiosk that rents rowboats. To get to the beach, follow the signs towards Fra Mare Thalasso Spa and keep going.
Fra Mare Thalasso SpaSPA
(map Google map; %472 4600; www.framare.ee; Ranna tee 2; treatments from €22)
If you want to experience Haapsalu’s reputedly magic mud, this spa hotel offers a variety of treatments for day visitors (massage, baths etc), along with a pool, a sauna and a gym. If you’d like to overnight, rooms are comfortable and up to date, if unremarkable (single/double from €77/104).
A GHOSTLY VIGIL
Haapsalu’s biggest annual event, the White Lady Festival (Valge daami päevad; www.valgedaam.ee; hAug), coincides with the August full moon. The three-day weekend begins with merriment – music, storytelling, and theatre across the town – and culminates with a ghastly apparition. During the full moon every August and February, moonlight at a precise angle creates a ghostly reflection upon a cathedral window. According to legend, the shadow is cast by a young girl who, in the 14th century, was bricked up alive inside the walls.
Back then, the castle was an all-male enclave, and the archbishop got pretty worked up when he heard that a young woman, disguised in monastic vestments, sneaked in to be close to her lover-monk. On the culminating evening, crowds stay out late to see a play recounting the story in the castle grounds (€15 at the door), after which everyone gathers to await the Lady’s apparition.
zFestivals & Events
Haapsalu has a packed calendar of concerts and festivals, with the action concentrated between June and August.
Haapsalu Horror & Fantasy Film FestivalFILM
(Haapsalu õudus- ja fantaasiafilmide festival; www.hoff.ee; single ticket/festival pass €5.50/45; hApr)
Haapsalu is invaded by fans of macabre, blood-splattered and downright creepy films during this four-day festival. The biggest genre-film festival in the Baltics, it’s timed to coincide with the April full moon.
Haapsalu Early Music FestivalMUSIC
(Haapsalu vanamuusika festival; www.haapsalu.ee; Haapsalu Catheral; tickets from €20; hJul)
Held in late July and making full use of the magnificent acoustics of the Dome Church (Haapsalu Cathedral), this festival celebrates early music and its practitioners from round the world.
August BluesMUSIC
(Augustibluus; www.augustibluus.ee; festival pass €65; hAug)
Over two days in early August, this is Estonia’s biggest blues festival. Founded in 1994, it attracts plenty of international acts to add glamour to a rich program of Estonian artists. The grounds of the Episcopal Castle are the main venue, but seven other stages dot Haapsalu. Festival passes are cheaper if preordered online.
4Sleeping
Lahe MajaGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %516 3023; www.lahemaja.com; Lahe 7; r/cottage/house from €78/140/700; p
W)
The name means ‘Bay House’ and this very pretty pale-blue wooden house looks like it’s escaped from a chocolate box to take its position within manicured lawns overlooking the water. The large main house has four double rooms and a four-person family room, plus there’s a separate two-bedroom cottage for rent at the rear.
Kongo HotellHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %472 4800; www.kongohotel.ee; Kalda 19; s/d/ste from €68/87/150; pW)
The unassuming exterior gives little indication of Kongo’s stylish, Scandi-chic decor – off-white walls, neutral linens and pale wooden floors. Larger rooms are available, with kitchenettes. And the name? A rough drinking den once stood on this spot, known for its brawling. The place was nicknamed ‘Kongo’ after the African country suffering through civil war at the time.
5Eating & Drinking
Müüriääre KohvikCAFE€
(map Google map; %473 7527; www.muuriaare.ee; Karja 7; mains €8-10; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W)
With more umlauts in its name than seems reasonable (the name means ‘beside the walls’), this gorgeous cafe is clearly the town’s favourite, if the crowds are anything to go by. And what’s not to love in the warm interior, pretty rear terrace, cabinet full of cakes, and simple menu of fresh, light meals such as salads, pasta and quiche.
Hapsal DietrichCAFE€€
(map Google map; %509 4549; www.dietrich.ee; Karja 10; mains €11-14; h11.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W)
A reboot of a famous, early-20th-century Haapsalu bakery-cafe of the same name, Dietrich is clearly a labour of love, with elements of 1920s and 1930s decor, photos from the old days and a winning way with cakes. The more substantial dishes such as the schnitzel with lingonberry jam or dumplings in duck broth are excellent, too.
Next door is a guesthouse with six apartments furnished with the same taste and care (from €85).
Herman Bistro & BarBAR
(map Google map; %473 7131; www.hermanhaapsalu.ee; Karja 1a; mains €7-9; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
With a warm and inviting atmosphere, this brightly painted bar serves sandwiches, hearty meals and cocktails, or you can just slink in for a beer.
WORTH A TRIP
MATSALU NATIONAL PARK
A twitcher’s paradise, Matsalu (Matsalu Rahvuspark; www.loodusegakoos.ee) is a prime migration and breeding ground for the Baltic and Europe generally: some 282 bird species have been counted here. Encompassing 486 sq km of wetlands (including 20km-long Matsalu Bay), it was first protected as a reserve in 1957, entered on the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance in 1976, and declared a national park in 2004. Its headquarters (%472 4236; www.loodusegakoos.ee; Penijõe village; h9am-5pm daily mid-Apr–Sep, Mon-Fri rest of year) are 3km north of the Tallinn–Virtsu road at Penijõe, an early-18th-century manor house near Lihula.
Comprising coastal meadows and woodland, over 50 islands in the Väinameri Sea and the most extensive reed bed in the Baltics, it’s home to 49 species of fish, 47 species of mammal and 772 species of vascular plants. But it’s the birds people come to see.
Spring migration peaks in April/May, but swans arrive as early as March. Autumn migration begins in July and can last until November. Birdwatching towers, with extensive views of resting sites over various terrain, have been built at Haeska, Keemu, Suitsu, Penijõe and Kloostri. There are also marked nature trails at Penijõe (3.2km to 7km), Salevere (1.5km) and Suitsu (1km). Bring reliable footwear as the ground is generally boggy, except during summer dry spells.
8Information
Haapsalu Tourist Office (%473 3248; www.visithaapsalu.com; Karja 15; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 11am-5pm Mon-Fri rest of year; W) This friendly, well-staffed office has loads of info about Haapsalu and the surrounding area.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (Raudtee 2) is at the pretty but defunct train station. Major destinations include Tallinn (€5 to €9, 1¾ hours, at least hourly), Tartu (€12, 4¼ hours, daily) and Pärnu (€5.10, 2½ hours, daily). For Hiiumaa, there are two daily buses to Kärdla (€4, 2½ hours) and a daily bus to Käina (€4, 2¼ hours).
Ferries to Hiiumaa and Vormsi leave from Rohuküla, 9km west of Haapsalu.
8Getting Around
You can rent bicycles at Rattad Vaba Aeg (%521 2796; Karja 22; bikes per hour/day/24hr €2.50/10/16; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat).
Bus 1 runs regularly between Lossi plats, the bus station and Rohuküla (the ferry wharf, 9km west); timetables are posted at Lossi plats and the bus station.
Muhu
POP 1697
Connected to Saaremaa by a 2.5km causeway, the island of Muhu has the undeserved reputation as the ‘doormat’ for the bigger island – lots of people passing through on their way from the ferry, but few stopping. In fact, Estonia’s third-biggest island offers plenty of excuses to hang around, including bucolic rural landscapes, medieval churches, traditional stone-and-thatch fishing villages, museums, galleries and grand manorial estates.
1Sights & Activities
oMuhu MuseumMUSEUM
(map; %454 8872; www.muhumuuseum.ee; Koguva; adult/concession €4/3; h9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat rest of year; p)
Koguva is an exceptionally well preserved, traditional Muhu village, now protected as an open-air museum. One ticket allows you to wander through an old schoolhouse, a house displaying beautiful traditional textiles from the area (including painstakingly detailed folk costumes) and Tooma farmstead, ancestral home of author Juhan Smuul (1922–71), 19th(!) child of a Koguva fisherman. Scattered around are orchards, wells, moss-covered walls, cellars, a smithy and other perfectly photogenic relics.
Koguva KunstitallGALLERY
(map; Koguva; h10am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep) 
F
Local craft and artworks adorn the walls and shelves of this meticulously restored thatched longhouse in Koguva.
Muhu Ostrich FarmFARM
(map; Muhu Jaanalinnufarm; www.jaanalind.ee; Nautse; adult/student €4/3; h10am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep)
This working ostrich farm is a decent diversion for families, with opportunities to feed the birds, learn about their habits and buy feather dusters, eggs, and purses and shoes made from ostrich leather. Attached is a mini-menagerie of kangaroos, wallabies, alpacas, emus and ponies (for kids to ride).
Cycling RoutesCYCLING
(www.muhu.ee/Activities-on-Muhu/)
The quiet back roads of Muhu are perfect for two-wheeled exploration, which is a very popular pastime of Estonian holidaymakers. Two cycling routes have been set out: the 53km northern route and the 26km southern route. Both start from the ferry and end at the causeway to Saaremaa, meaning they can be combined into one big loop. Download a map from the website.
CCourses
Nami NamasteCOOKING
(map; %515 2808; www.naminamaste.com; Simisti; 2-night package per person from €295; hMay-Sep)
Renowned Finnish chef Sikke Sumari offers bespoke cooking classes including meals and accommodation in this tranquil stone farmstead in Simisti, in Muhu’s south. Most ingredients are seasonal and local (many are home-grown or foraged), and classes are given in various languages, including English. It’s also possible to dine here without taking the class (lunch/dinner €35/52), although numbers are limited.
4Sleeping & Eating
Vanatoa TurismitaluGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; %5558 7494; www.vanatoa.ee; Koguva; camping per person €5, caravan €15, s/d from €50/58; pW)
In the heart of the exquisitely preserved fishing village Koguva, family-run Vanatoa offers 17 comfortably renovated rooms across a listed, thatched longhouse and its outbuildings. Triples have whirlpool baths, and the ‘Fyke Shed’ is only appropriate for the warmer months. There’s also a common area with a pool table, a cafe, a sauna, bike rental and a volleyball court. It’s best to book ahead.
oPädaste ManorHOTEL€€€
(map; %454 8800; www.padaste.ee; Pädaste; d/ste from €267/437; hMar-Oct; pW)
If money’s no object, here’s where to part with it. This manicured bayside estate encompasses the restored manor house (14 rooms and a fine-dining restaurant), a stone carriage house (nine rooms and a spa centre) and a separate stone ‘sea house’ brasserie. The attention to detail is second to none, from the pop-up TVs to the antique furnishings and Muhu embroidery.
Kalapoe KohvikSEAFOOD€
(map; %459 8551; Liiva; mains €8-10; hnoon-6pm summer)
At the crossroads in Liiva, this humble ‘fish cafe’, just a simple clapboard shack with outdoor seats for good weather, serves up first-rate fish with basic accompaniments such as cottage cheese, pickles and potato. Call ahead to ensure it’s open, or take your chances if you’re passing through.
AlexanderEUROPEAN€€€
(map; %454 8800; www.padaste.ee; Pädaste; 3/9 courses €74/131; h1-2.30pm Mar-May & Sep, 7-10.30pm Mar–mid-Oct)
Last named Estonia’s best restaurant in 2015, Alexander is the culinary centrepiece of the ultra-luxe Pädaste Manor. Offering either a three-course or nine-course prix fixe menu, it’s a real culinary adventure, focusing on tastes peculiar to Estonia’s western islands and the best of what’s in season, with nods to ‘New Nordic’ cuisine and molecular gastronomy.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
AFrequent Praamid (%618 1310; www.praamid.ee; adult/child/car €3/1.50/8.40) car ferries make the 27-minute crossing between Virtsu on the mainland and Kuivastu on Muhu.
ABoats depart Virtsu from roughly 5.35am until midnight, with at least one or two sailings per hour up until 10.15pm.
AA 50% surcharge applies to vehicles heading to the island after 1pm on Fridays and departing the island after 1pm on Sundays.
AUp to 70% of each boat’s capacity is presold online; the website has a real-time indicator showing what percentage has already been sold. The remaining 30% is kept for drive-up customers and offered on a first-in, first-on basis. You should definitely consider prebooking at busy times, particularly around weekends in summer.
ATickets purchased online must either be printed out or loaded as an e-ticket on your phone. If you’re driving, your licence plate should suffice to show you’ve paid.
AIf you miss your prebooked boat, your ticket will be valid for the regular queue on subsequent boats for up to 48 hours.
BUS
Buses take the ferry from the mainland and continue through to Saaremaa via the causeway, stopping along the main road. Some Kuressaare–Kuivastu services also divert to Koguva and Pädaste on weekdays. Major destinations:
Kuressaare €5 to €5.60, one hour, up to 10 daily
Pärnu €6 to €11, 2½ hours, three daily
Tallinn €12 to €14, three hours, up to seven daily
Tartu €13 to €16, five hours, two daily
Viljandi €10 to €15, four hours, two daily
Saaremaa
POP 31,317
To Estonians, Saaremaa (literally ‘island land’) is synonymous with space, spruce and fresh air – and bottled water, vodka and killer beer. Estonia’s largest island (roughly the size of Luxembourg) is still substantially covered in forests of pine, spruce and juniper, while its windmills, lighthouses and tiny villages seem largely unbothered by the passage of time.
Kuressaare, the capital of Saaremaa, is on the south coast (75km from the Muhu ferry terminal) and is a natural base for visitors. It’s here among the upmarket hotels that you’ll understand where the island got its nickname, ‘Spa-remaa’. When the long days arrive, so too do the Finns and Swedes, jostling for beach and sauna space with Estonian urban-escapees.
History
Saaremaa’s earliest coastal settlements (dating from the 4th millennium BC) now lie inland because the land has risen about 15m over the last 5000 years. In the 10th to 13th centuries Saaremaa and Muhu were the most densely populated parts of Estonia. Denmark tried to conquer Saaremaa in the early 13th century; however, in 1227 it was the German Knights of the Sword who subjugated it. The island was then carved up between the knights, who took Muhu and the eastern and northwestern parts of Saaremaa, and the Haapsalu-based bishop of Ösel-Wiek, who made Kuressaare his stronghold.
Saaremaa rebelled against German rule many times between 1236 and 1343, when the knights’ castle was destroyed and the Germans were expelled. However, the islander’s gains were always short-lived and in 1345 the Germans reconquered the island.
In the 16th century Saaremaa became a Danish possession during the Livonian War, but by 1645 the Swedes had their turn, compliments of the Treaty of Brömsebro. Russia took over in 1710 during the Great Northern War and Saaremaa became part of the Russian province of Livonia, governed from Rīga.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers reach Saaremaa by taking the ferry from Virtsu to Muhu and then driving in a personal vehicle or by bus across the 2.5km causeway connecting the islands.
AIR
Kuressaare Airport (Kuressaare Lennujaam; %453 0313; www.kuressaare-airport.ee; Roomassaare tee 1) is at Roomassaare, 3km southeast of the town centre. Buses 2 and 12 connect it with the bus station at Kuressaare.
Saartelennuliinid (www.saartelennuliinid.ee) flies to/from Tallinn twice daily on weekdays and once on Saturdays and Sundays (return from €52).
BOAT
Additional to the Muhu ferry, Kihnu Veeteed (www.veeteed.com) runs two boats a day between Sõru on Hiiumaa and Triigi on the north coast of Saaremaa (adult/child/car €3/1.50/8.40, 65 minutes); from mid-September to mid-May there is only one sailing on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Tickets can be purchased at the harbour or prebooked online.
Veeteed also operates twice-weekly passenger-only service from Kuressaare (Roomassaare) to Ruhnu (Ringsu) from May to October (€11 to €17).
Saaremaa is very popular with visiting yachties. The best marina (https://sadam.kuressaare.ee; Tori 4) facilities are at Kuressaare. Visit www.sadamaregister.ee for details of this and other harbours on Saaremaa.
BUS
Buses from the mainland take the Muhu ferry and continue to Saaremaa via the causeway, terminating in Kuressaare. Major routes:
Muhu Island €5 to €5.60, one hour, up to 10 daily
Pärnu €9 to €16, three hours, three daily
Tallinn €12 to €17, four hours, up to nine daily
Tartu €18 to €22, 5¾ hours, two daily
Viljandi €13 to €15, 4½ hours, two daily
8Getting Around
BICYCLE
Flat Saaremaa is well suited to exploring by pedal power. Apart from the main highway leading from Muhu to Kuressaare, most of the roads have only light traffic and there are lots of side routes to explore.
Many accommodation providers rent bikes. In Kuressaare, Bivarix (%455 7118; www.bivarix.ee; Pikk 54; per hour/4hr/day €6/8/15; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) rents bicycles and touring gear such as trailers for kids or luggage. It can also advise on interesting routes.
BUS
Local buses putter around the island, but not very frequently. The main terminus is Kuressaare bus station (Kuressaare Bussijaam; %453 1661; www.bussipilet.ee; Pihtla tee 2) and there’s a route planner online at www.bussipilet.ee.
Eastern Saaremaa
Apart from the town of Orissaare, which faces Muhu over the channel between the two islands, the eastern end of Saaremaa is sparsely populated and pleasantly rural.
1Sights & Activities
St Mary’s ChurchCHURCH
(map; Pöide)
Pöide, 3km south of the main highway, was the Saaremaa headquarters of the German Knights of the Sword and this fortress-church, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, remains an imposing symbol of their power. Pillaged and abandoned in Soviet times and reconsecrated in 1999, it now serves Lutheran, Methodist and Orthodox congregations, and its crumbling exterior is offset by a perfect stained-glass window above the altar.
Orissaare OakLANDMARK
(map; Kuivastu mnt, Orissaare)
Even in a nation where people still leave offerings in sacred groves, Orissaare’s most famous landmark is, well, a little weird. Winner of the 2015 European Tree of the Year award, this 150-year-old oak stands right in the middle of a football field. The field was laid out around the oak in 1951 and when tractors came to remove the tree, the tree won the battle (although it still bears the scars). Players simply kick around it.
MaasilinnusCASTLE
(map; Maasi) F
The German knights built this castle, 4km north of Orissaare, during the 14th to 16th centuries and using the forced labour of the conquered locals. It was blown up by the Danes in 1578 to prevent the Swedes from taking it, leaving behind a jumble of stones by a pretty reed-lined shore. Indulge your inner archaeologist by exploring the restored underground chamber.
Tika TaluHORSE RIDING
(map; %504 4169; www.tikatalu.ee; Kõrkvere; trail rides per hour €20)
Runs trail rides through the coastal plains of eastern Saaremaa, and has an indoor training and dressage facility (€20 per 45 minutes).
ISLAND BREW
Saaremaa has a long history of beer home-brewing and even its factory-produced brew has a great reputation. Tuulik, with its distinctive windmill branding, is the most popular, but don’t mention that it’s now brewed in Tartu (the popular Saaremaa vodka also has a windmill on its label and it’s not distilled here either).
For a classier drop, try Pöide (especially the dark version), which is produced in a microbrewery in the village of the same name. It’s available at the pubs in Kuressaare and in craft-beer stockists nationwide.
Beer lovers should be sure to try any homemade beer wherever it’s offered. A longtime island tradition, the brew features the traditional malt, yeast and hops, but comes off a bit sour on the palate. It’s light and refreshing, best quaffed from a wooden tankard on a warm summer’s day.
Central Saaremaa
If you’re arriving by ferry from Hiiumaa, the first settlement you’ll hit is Leisi, a pretty village of old wooden houses, 3.5km from the harbour of Triigi. There are some interesting sights scattered around this section of the north coast, along with plenty of others on either side of the main road heading south to Kuressaare.
1Sights
St Catherine’s Lutheran Church, KarjaCHURCH
(map; Karja Katariina kirik; Linnaka village; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Jun-Aug)
The pagan and Christian meet in this fortress-like 14th-century church. Outside there’s an interesting panel about pre-Christian symbols with particular reference to some of the 13th- and 14th-century trapezoidal gravestones found here. Inside, oak leaves curl along the top of the columns and there are some interesting symbols painted on the walls.
Angla Windmill HillARCHITECTURE
(map; Angla Tuulikumägi; %5199 0265; www.anglatuulik.eu; Upa-Leisi; adult/reduced €4/2; h9am-8pm May-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Apr; pc)
Charge up those camera batteries: this is the site of the largest and most photogenic grouping of wooden windmills on the islands. By the early 16th century there were already nine windmills on this hill. Now there are four small ones, mainly dating from the 19th century, and one large Dutch-style one, built in 1927. There are excellent (free) views from the road, but the modest admission charge allows you to poke around in their innards.
TuhkanaBEACH
(map)
Tucked away within pine forest, Tuhkana is one of Saaremaa’s best sandy beaches, due in large part to its remoteness. To get here from Leisi, head west for 11km to Metsküla and turn right onto the unsealed road. After about 3km, look for a parking area on your left.
Panga PankVIEWPOINT
(map)
Saaremaa’s highest cliffs run along the northern coast near Panga for 3km. The highest point (21.3m) was a sacred place where sacrifices were made to the sea god; gifts of flowers, coins, vodka and beer are still sometimes left here. It’s a pretty spot, looking down at the treacherous waters below.
Kaali CraterLAKE
(map)
Estonia has one of the world’s highest concentrations of documented meteor craters. At Kaali, 18km north of Kuressaare, is a 100m-wide, 22m-deep, curiously round lake formed by a meteorite at least 4000 years ago. There are a further eight collateral craters in the vicinity, ranging from 12m to 40m in diameter, formed by fragments of the same meteorite. To the pre-Christians, the site was known as the sun’s grave, and was used for animal sacrifice.
A tourist village of sorts has sprung up here – there’s a small museum (www.kaali.kylastuskeskus.ee; adult/child €1.50/1; h9am-7pm), handicrafts stores and a hotel, as well as an old-style tavern offering Estonian fare and locally brewed beer.
7Shopping
GoodKaarmaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(map; %5348 4006; www.goodkaarma.com; Kuke; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug, other times by arrangement) 
S
Run by an English-Estonian couple from their farm outside the village of Kaarma, about 15km north of Kuressaare, GoodKaarma makes organic soaps from local ingredients such as juniper, pine and sea-buckthorn berries. If you’re interested in getting your hands dirty (or should that be clean), you can book into a 75-minute soap-making workshop (per person €10, minimum five people).
Kuressaare
POP 13,166
What passes for the big smoke in these parts, Kuressaare has a picturesque town centre with leafy streets and a magnificent castle rising up in its midst, surrounded by a sprawling ring-town of housing and light industry. The town built a reputation as a health centre as early as the 19th century, when the ameliorative properties of its coastal mud were discovered and the first spas opened. Now they’re a dime a dozen, ranging from Eastern Bloc sanatoriums to sleek and stylish resorts.
Apart from the castle, the best of Kuressaare’s historic buildings are grouped around the central square, Keskväljak. The tourist office is housed in the town hall (1670), a baroque building guarded by a fine pair of stone lions. Directly across the square the Vaekoja pub inhabits a former weigh-house, also from the 17th century.
Kuressaare
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
1Sights
oKuressaare Episcopal CastleCASTLE
(map Google map; www.saaremaamuuseum.ee)
Majestic Kuressaare Castle stands facing the sea at the southern end of the town, on an artificial island defended by stone-faced earth bastions and ringed by a moat. It’s the best-preserved castle in the Baltic and the region’s only medieval stone castle that has remained intact. The castle grounds are open to the public at all times but to visit the keep you’ll need to buy a ticket to the castle’s branch of the Saaremaa Museum.
A castle was founded in the 1260s, but the mighty dolomite fortress that stands today was not built until the 14th century, with some protective walls added between the 15th and 18th centuries. It was designed as an administrative centre as well as a stronghold. The more slender of its two tall corner towers, Pikk Hermann to the east, is separated from the rest of the castle by a shaft crossed only by a drawbridge, so it could function as a last refuge in times of attack.
Outdoor concerts are held in the castle yard throughout the summer and you can also try your hand at archery. There’s a memorial on the eastern wall to 90 people killed within the castle grounds by the Red Army in 1941. Its grim companion piece lies beyond the castle wall on one of the island ramparts – a large memorial to 300 people executed during the Nazi occupation.
The shady park around the castle moat was laid out in 1861 and there are some fine wooden resort buildings in and around it, notably the Spa Hall (Kuursaal) dating from 1899, which is now a restaurant, and the neighbouring bandstand from 1920. If the weather’s nice, you can hire rowboats (per hour €10) or bikes (per hour €4) from the Spa Hall.
Saaremaa MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %455 4463; www.saaremaamuuseum.ee; Kuressaare Castle; adult/reduced €8/6; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 11am-6pm Wed-Sun Sep-Apr)
Occupying the keep of Kuressaare Castle since the late 19th century, this museum is devoted to Saaremaa’s nature and history. A large part of the fun is exploring the warren of chambers, halls, passages and stairways, apt to fuel anyone’s Game of Thrones fantasies. One room near the bishop’s chamber looks down to a dungeon where, according to legend, condemned prisoners were dispatched to be devoured by hungry lions (recorded growls reinforce the mental image).
Suur Töll & PiretSCULPTURE
Kuressaare’s jauntiest statue, created in 2002, features Saaremaa’s legendary gigantic hero, Suur (meaning ‘the great’) Töll and his wife, Piret, carrying a boat laden with fish on their glistening, naked shoulders.
St Nicholas’ Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Püha Nikolai Kirik; Lossi 8; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-noon Sun mid-May–mid-Aug)
Built by Catherine the Great in 1790, Saaremaa’s oldest Orthodox church has twin steeples and an impressive dolomite and wrought-iron gate. A faint image of its name saint has survived on the exterior wall facing the street, while inside there are some lovely icons, including one featuring the church itself.
Kuressaare BeachBEACH
(map Google map; Raiekivi tee 1)
Although the best beaches are out of town, this small sandy bay behind Kuressaare Castle fills up with sunbathers, paddlers and volleyball players during the summer.
St Lawrence’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Laurentiuse Kirik; Tallinna 13; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 6-7pm Thu, 11am-2pm Sat Jun-Aug)
Although this large, single-naved, dolomite church was rebuilt in its present form in 1836, its prized feature is considerably older: a medieval stone baptismal font rescued from the 14th-century church at Anseküla, destroyed in WWII. Probably from the early 15th century, it’s carved with dragon-like creatures. Also worth noting are the grey wooden box pews, low-hanging chandeliers and the fine vaulted roof above the sanctuary painted with an interesting trompe l’œil effect.
Johannes & Joosep Aavik’s Memorial MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; Johannes & Joosep Aaviku majamuuseum; www.saaremaamuuseum.ee; Vallimaa 7; adult/reduced €3/2; h11am-4pm Wed-Fri)
The Aavik family home is now a small museum dedicated to the life and works of linguist Johannes Aavik (1880–1973), who introduced major reforms to the Estonian language, and his musically talented cousin, Joosep Aavik (1899–1989).
2Activities
Spa Hotel RüütliWATER PARK
(map Google map; %454 8100; www.saaremaaspahotels.eu; Pargi 12; adult/reduced €8/5; h7am-9pm; c)
If the weather means an indoor splash is best, bring the kids to this hotel water park to make use of the pools and 52m slide. Mum and Dad might like to book a spa treatment while they’re at it (from €13).
Saaremaa Golf & Country ClubGOLF
(map Google map; %453 3502; www.saaregolf.ee; Merikotka 35; 9/18 holes from €35/60, club hire €40)
This 18-hole championship course is immediately west of Kuressaare’s town centre.
zFestivals & Events
Kuressaare’s dance card is certainly full over the summer. As well as the high-profile festivals, there are regular summer concerts held in the castle grounds and park; find out what’s up at the tourist office.
Saaremaa Opera FestivalMUSIC
(Saaremaa ooperipäevad; www.saaremaaopera.eu; Kuressaare Castle; tickets from €79; hJul)
For a week in late July, about 2000 people pack into the grounds of Kuressaare Castle to watch productions from an international guest company.
Kuressaare Chamber Music DaysMUSIC
(Kuressaare kammermuusika päevad; www.kammerfest.ee; festival passport €65; hJul/Aug)
Concerts take place all over town during five days in late July/early August, including such evocative venues as the chapter house of Kuressaare’s castle.
Kuressaare Maritime FestivalCULTURAL
(Kuressaare merepaevad; www.merepaevad.ee; Raiekivi Säär; hAug)
Held every August on Raiekivi Säär, the little peninsula behind the castle, this good-natured festival features food stalls, concerts and other performances.
4Sleeping
The tourist office can organise beds in private apartments and farms across the island. Hotel prices are up to 50% cheaper from September through April. Most hotel spa centres are open to nonguests.
Hotell MardiHOTEL€
(%452 4633; www.hotelmardi.eu; Vallimaa 5a; hostel s/tw €20/30, hotel s/d from €44/67; pW)
These simple, fuss-free rooms are attached to a college. The hostel rooms have bunk beds and share bathrooms; they’re a little institutional, but probably Kuressaare’s best cheapies.
Staadioni HotellHOTEL€€
(%453 3556; www.staadionihotell.ee; Staadioni 4; s/d €44/59; hmid-May–early Sep; p
iW)
Good-value spacious and bright rooms are available at this pleasant, secluded spot, south of the castle. It’s surrounded by parkland and sports facilities. Bikes can be hired here (per day €10) and there’s a sauna available.
Karluti HostelGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %501 4390; www.karluti.ee; Pärna 23; tw/tr without bathroom €40/50; hApr-Oct; pW)
It’s hard to imagine this cheerful, 1930s clapboard guesthouse was once home to Soviet naval intelligence. Set among large lawns on a quiet residential street, it’s close to the centre, and offers a kitchen for guests to self-cater. There are only a handful of bright, spotless rooms available, so you’ll need to book ahead – especially in summer.
oEkesparreBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %453 8778; www.ekesparre.ee; Kuressaare Castle, Lossi 27; r from €175; hApr-Oct; pW)
Holding pole position in manicured gardens on the castle grounds, this elegant 10-room hotel has been returned to its 1908, art nouveau glory. Period wallpaper and carpet, Tiffany lamps and a smattering of orchids add to the refined, clubby atmosphere, while the 3rd-floor guests’ library is a gem. As you’d expect from the price, it’s a polished operator.
oGeorg Ots Spa HotelHOTEL€€€
(map Google map; Gospa; %455 0000; www.gospa.ee; Tori 2; s/d from €133/145, ste €295; p
aW
s)
Named after a renowned Estonian opera singer, Gospa has modern rooms with wildly striped carpet, enormous king-sized beds and a warm but minimalist design. Most rooms have balconies, and there’s a fitness centre and excellent day spa, including a pool and multiple saunas. Separate freestanding ‘residences’ are also available, and families are very well catered to. Prices vary widely.
ArensburgBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %452 4700; www.arensburg.ee; Lossi 15; s/d/ste €115/130/250; pWs)
Arensburg is almost two hotels in one, with a severe case of old versus new. Our vote goes to the bold and sexy charcoal-and-mustard-painted rooms in the slick 2007 extension (standard rooms in the historic wing are OK but unremarkable). A spa and two restaurants (mains €12) round things out nicely.
Grand Rose Spa HotelHOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %666 7000; www.grandrose.ee; Tallinna 15; s/d/ste from €130/135/205; Ws)
Floral and frilly is the theme of this hotel, from the baroque black velvet chairs, chandeliers and water feature in the rose-filled lobby to the rose carpet throughout. Deluxe rooms have a balcony, separate bathtub and shower stall, and over-the-top beds, but feel more crammed than the standard rooms. The spa centre and restaurant (mains €13 to €15) are both very good.
5Eating
oRetroCAFE€
(map Google map; %5683 8400; www.kohvikretro.ee; Lossi 5; mains €7-10; hnoon-9pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; Wc)
The menu at this stylish little cafe-bar is deceptively simple (mainly burgers, with a few wraps, soups and seafood dishes thrown in), but Retro’s kitchen works hard: making its own ciabatta and burger buns, and using top-notch produce. Desserts are delicious, and there’s a great selection of Estonian craft beer, perfect for supping on the large terrace out back.
VanalinnaCAFE€
(map Google map; %455 3214; www.vanalinna.ee; Kauba 8; cakes & pastries €0.50-3; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; W)
Attached to a hotel of the same name, this bakery-cafe has an appealing vibe, with its timber-and-stone interior and black-and-white photos hanging from dark-orange walls. The counter has an appealing selection of sandwiches, salads, pastries and ice cream, and there’s outdoor seating when the sun shines.
oKu KuuEUROPEAN€€
(map Google map; %453 9749; www.kuressaarekuursaal.ee; Lossipark 1; mains €14-17; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun May–mid-Sep; W)
Occupying the elegant 1889 Spa Hall from which it takes its name (Ku Kuu is short for Kuressaare Kuursaal), this is Saaremaa’s loveliest dining room. The wood panelling and coloured glass provide an atmospheric backdrop for a tasty menu of seafood and island produce that visits various European cuisines. Outdoor dining, immediately opposite the castle, is a summer treat.
The best of each day’s catch is usually the best choice, priced by weight.
Saaremaa VeskiESTONIAN€€
(map Google map; Saaremaa Mill; %453 3776; www.saaremaaveski.ee; Pärna 19; mains €14-15; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; pWc)
How often can you say you’ve dined inside a 19th-century windmill? Without being too touristy, this place keeps quality and ambience at a premium, with plenty of hearty local fare – including wild boar hotpot, beetroot soup and Saaremaa cheeses. Built in 1899, the mill operated until 1941, when the sails were removed to prevent their use for wartime signalling.
Gospa RestaurantEUROPEAN€€
(map Google map; %455 0000; www.gospa.ee; Tori 2; mains €15-18; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; Wc)
Picture windows make the most of the marina views in the bright and airy dining room of Georg Ots Spa Hotel. The food is light, fresh and creative, making good use of local produce, and there’s a separate kids’ menu, offering simple treats such as meatball soup and build-your-own pizza.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Vinoteek PreludeWINE BAR
(map Google map; %453 3407; www.prelude.ee; Lossi 4; h4pm-midnight; W)
This cosy, dimly lit wine bar in an 18th-century building on Kuressaare’s main drag is a great choice for interesting food and wine. Climb the staircase to sofas under the eaves, and choose from a menu of international wines (plenty by the glass), antipasti-style snacks and wine-friendly meals such as wild-boar neck cooked with plums and paprika (mains €18 to €21).
John BullPUB
(map Google map; %453 9988; www.johnbull.ee; Lossipark 4; h11.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sat; W)
Despite the name, this pub in the castle park isn’t particularly English. In fact, there’s more of a Soviet vibe going down: the bar is made from an old Russian bus and there’s even a ‘red corner’ hung with portraits of Lenin. Sit on the deck for great views looking over the moat to the castle.
Pub VaekodaPUB
(map Google map; %453 3020; www.vaekoda.ee; Tallinna 3; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; W)
The name means ‘weigh-house’ and this is one of Kuressaare’s most significant historic buildings, built in 1663 to measure goods for taxation and commercial purposes. These days it’s a relaxed, no-nonsense pub with tables spilling onto the street and serving a robust almost-exclusively meaty menu (mains €12 to €15).
7Shopping
Lossi AntiikANTIQUES
(map Google map; www.lossiantiik.eu; Lossi 19; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat)
Just before the castle, this jam-packed little store sells all sorts of antiques, from 19th-century farm tools to Soviet memorabilia. It’s a fun place to browse.
Kuressaare MarketMARKET
(map Google map; Kuressaare Turg; Tallinna 5; h9am-5pm)
This outdoor market has stalls selling all kinds of Saaremaa treats and tat: dolomite canisters, woollen sweaters, wooden handicrafts, smallgoods, honey, strawberries and more, depending on the season.
Saaremaa KunstistuudioARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %453 3748; www.kunstistuudio.ee; Lossi 5; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 4pm Sun)
This bright gallery contains a variety of works by Estonian artists, including covetable textiles, ceramics, sculptures and paintings.
8Information
Kuressaare Tourist Office (%453 3120; www.visitsaaremaa.ee; Tallinna 2; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri rest of year) Inside the old town hall, it provides maps and guides, lists accommodation and has information on boat trips and island tours.
8Getting There & Around
Kuressaare Takso (%1300, 453 0000; www.kuressaaretakso.ee; day/night flagfall €2.20/2.40, per km €0.80/0.95) is a reliable local taxi firm.
Southwest Coast
The long stretch of pine-lined sand from Mändjala to Järve, west of Kuressaare, is Saaremaa’s main beach resort. The shallow beach curves languidly towards the south, where the 32km Sõrve Peninsula takes over. This beautiful but sparsely populated finger of land comes to a dramatic end at Sääre, with a lighthouse and a narrow sand spit extending out to sea.
The peninsula saw heavy fighting during WWII, and the battle scars remain. Various abandoned bunkers and battlements, and the remnants of the Lõme-Kaimri anti-tank defence lines, can still be seen.
1Sights
Tehumardi Night Battle MonumentMEMORIAL
(map; Tehumardi)
On the night of 8 October 1944 a gruesome battle took place in the coastal village of Tehumardi between retreating German troops and a Soviet Estonian Rifle Division. The horror defies belief: both armies fought blindly, firing on intuition or finding the enemy by touch. This large Soviet-era monument takes the form of a sword with the stylised reliefs of faces set into it. The Estonian dead lie buried in double graves nearby.
Sõrve Military MuseumMUSEUM
(map; Sõrve militaarmuuseum; Sääre; adult/reduced €5/3; h9am-9pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-May)
Based in former Soviet border-guard barracks, this ramshackle museum showcases military detritus, much of which was scavenged from the surrounding area. Arguably more interesting than the collection itself are the ruins of a massive gun embankment and various other bits of masonry littered around the garden. Included on the same ticket, a nearby cottage is jam-packed with an eclectic array of bugs, butterflies, feathers, skulls, mosses and stuffed critters.
Sõrve Lighthouse & Visitor CentreLIGHTHOUSE
(map; Sõrve Tuletorn; www.sorvekeskus.ee; Sääre; adult/reduced €5/4; h10am-7pm Jun-Aug)
The first lighthouse on Sõrve promontory, just a primitive beacon, was built in the 17th century; the current 52m erection dates to 1960. To climb it, it’s necessary to buy a ticket to the nearby visitor centre, occupying the old lighthouse-keeper’s residence, and presenting displays split over several floors, including a ‘nature room’, a ‘sea room’ (devoted to shipwrecks and the rescue service) and a children’s playroom.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tehumardi CampingCAMPGROUND€
(map; %510 5150; www.tehumardi.ee; Tehumardi; campsite per person €7, caravan site for 2 €21, cabins €45; pW)
The best of the campgrounds on the beach stretch, Tehumardi has a leafy site by a little lake. As well as basic four-person wooden cabins there are little hotel-style rooms (with their own bathrooms) and larger houses and bunkrooms for families or groups. Bikes are available for €2 per hour, and laundry is €4 a load.
oPiibutopsuAPARTMENT€€
(map; %520 5300; www.piibutopsu.ee; Ülejõe 19a, Nasva; d/tr/q €65/98/131; pW)
Set on the ample lawn of a private residence down a side street in Nasva (the first little settlement west of Kuressaare), Piibutopsu offers four modern, well-equipped holiday apartments in a custom-built block. The units are grouped around a central lounge with a wood fire, and there’s even a mini spa centre on-site. All in all, an excellent option.
Sääre PaarguCAFE€€
(map; %5550 5555; www.saarepaargu.ee; Sääre; mains €10-13; h10am-10pm mid-May–Aug; W)
Paargu means ‘summer house’ and this slick little pavilion near the tip of the Sõrve Peninsula only kicks off in the warmer months. Grilled fish, freshly caught locally, is usually the pick of the menu, but there are burgers and grilled chicken too. With a beachside deck and beach-house vibe, it’s very popular with visitors to Sõrve Lighthouse.
Western Saaremaa
Even in summer, it’s easy to beat the tourist hordes down this end of the island. The main settlement is sleepy Kihelkonna, which is more an oversized village than a town. It’s the gateway to Vilsandi, the most remote of Estonia’s national parks.
1Sights
Mihkli Farm MuseumMUSEUM
(map; Mihkli Talumuuseum; www.saaremaamuuseum.ee; Viki; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-6pm daily mid-May–mid-Aug, Wed-Sun early May & mid-Aug–Sep; p)
In a pretty setting southeast of Kihelkonna, this early-18th-century farm has been preserved in its entirety, complete with thatched-roof wooden farmhouses, a sauna, a windmill and a traditional village swing. Six generations of one farming family have lived here, and made almost everything you can see.
Viidumäe Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(Viidumäe looduskaitseala)
Founded in 1957, this reserve covers an area of 26 sq km, with a 26m observation tower at Saaremaa’s highest point, Raunamägi (a vertigo-inducing 54m). The tower (about 2km along a dirt road north of Viidu) offers panoramic views of the forest and the contours of western Saaremaa, particularly memorable at sunset. There are also three short nature trails leaving from the Viidumäe Nature Centre (just beyond the tower), highlighting the different habitats of the area.
St Michael’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(map; Mihkli kirik; Kiriku 4, Kihelkonna; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug)
Kihelkonna’s tall, austere, early-German church dates from before 1280. It’s dark and gloomy inside, partly due to the wooden supports holding up the roof, but it’s worth noting the Renaissance Last Supper triptych (1591) above the altar and the carved pulpit (1604). The church didn’t get its steeple until 1899; before that the bells were rung from the freestanding belfry (1638) about 100m away. Once common, the belfry is the only one of its kind remaining in Estonia.
Tagamõisa PeninsulaNATURAL FEATURE
(map)
Much of the beautiful and rarely visited western coast of the Tagamõisa Peninsula is protected as part of Vilsandi National Park, including the Harilaid Peninsula, an important stopover for migratory birds. At its northwestern tip (accessible only on foot) is the striking Kiipsaare lighthouse, which due to erosion now sits about 30m out to sea. The erosion has caused the lighthouse to develop a visible lean, although it periodically corrects itself as the constantly mobile sands shift.
WORTH A TRIP
VILSANDI
Vilsandi, west of Kihelkonna, is the largest of 161 islands and islets off Saaremaa’s western coast protected as Vilsandi National Park (which also includes parts of Saaremaa itself, including the Harilaid Peninsula). The park covers 238 sq km (163 sq km of sea, 75 sq km of land) and is an area of extensive ecological study. The breeding patterns of the common eider and the migration of the barnacle goose have been monitored very closely here. Ringed seals can also be seen in their breeding season and 32 species of orchid thrive in the park.
Vilsandi, 6km long and in places up to 3km wide, is a low, wooded island. The small islets surrounding it are abundant with currant and juniper bushes. Around 250 bird species are observed here, and in spring and autumn there is a remarkable migration of waterfowl: up to 10,000 barnacle geese stop over on Vilsandi in mid-May, and the white-tailed eagle and osprey have even been known to drop by.
Islander (%5667 1555; www.islander.ee; hMay-Sep) offers speedboat water taxis to the island (€120 for up to 10 people), as well as diving, waterskiing, tubing and seal-spotting trips.
The Vilsandi National Park Visitor Centre (Vilsandi Rahvuspargi Keskus; %454 6880; www.loodusegakoos.ee; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) is on the grounds of Loona Manor, inland from Vilsandi. Staff can provide information on the park’s four basic free campsites and the two private ‘tourist farms’ offering accommodation and boat transfers. There’s also an exposition on the park and its flora and fauna.
4Sleeping & Eating
Loona ManorGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; %454 6510; www.loonamanor.ee; Loona; s/d €48/69; pW)
Loona may be a late-18th-century manor house, but it’s more homely than palatial, with simple, clean rooms and a quiet atmosphere. There’s an unfussy cafe-restaurant (open noon to 10pm May to September, mains €10 to €12), and Vilsandi National Park Visitor Centre is within the grounds.
Lümanda SöögimajaESTONIAN€€
(map; %457 6493; www.soogimaja.planet.ee; Lümanda; mains €6-14; h11am-10pm Jun-Aug; p)
This rustic restaurant, occupying a schoolhouse once attached to the photogenic church adjacent, just does old-fashioned Saaremaa cuisine. You’ll taste dishes that have nourished the islanders for centuries – fish soup, boiled pork with turnips and carrots, and cabbage rolls – with nothing frozen or imported from afar. There’s also a shop selling local crafts as you enter.
Hiiumaa
POP 8482
Hiiumaa, at 989 sq km Estonia’s second-biggest island, is a beautiful, bucolic place boasting stunning coasts, forests and farmland. Sustaining a high population of Estonian Swedes, the island has less tourist development than Saaremaa, with considerably fewer options for lodging and dining. There’s generally less to do and see than on its larger, southern neighbour, but most visitors are content simply to breathe in the fresh sea air and relax.
Scattered about Hiiumaa you’ll find picturesque lighthouses, eerie old Soviet bunkers, empty beaches and a nature reserve with over 100 different bird species. Those seeking a bit more activity can hike, bike, ride horses or indulge in various water sports. And, thanks to the island’s microclimate, the weather here is often considerably warmer than on the mainland, only 22km away. For further information about the island, see www.hiiumaa.ee.
HIIUMAA HANDICRAFTS
Handicraft-hunters will find fertile ground in Hiiumaa, where traditional crafts have been kept alive. One of the best outlets is the museum shop in Kassari, which carries top-quality woven woollen rugs, among other things. Also worth checking out:
Heltermaa Crafts House (Heltermaa Käsitöömaja; %515 0319; Heltermaa; h10.30am-7pm Jun-Sep) Everything sold in this craft collective near the ferry in Heltermaa is made on the island.
Hiiu Wool Factory (Hiiu villavabrik; %463 6121; www.hiiuvill.ee; Vaemla; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat year-round, plus 10am-4pm Sun mid-May–Aug) Look for this small mill, which produces traditional woollen garments on 19th century machines, 4km east of Käin.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
There are two Transaviabaltika (http://sll.flights) flights each weekday, and one each Saturday and Sunday between Kärdla Airport (Kärdla Lennujaam; %463 1381; www.kardla-airport.ee; Hiiessaare) and Tallinn (€21, 30 minutes). The airport is 6km east of the centre of Kärdla, and can be reached on free buses timed to meet all flights.
BOAT
AMost people arrive in Hiiumaa on the Praamid Ferries (www.praamid.ee) service from Rohuküla to Heltermaa (adult/child/car/motorbike €3.40/1.70/10/4.20, 1½ hours, eight to 10 daily).
AThe busiest boats are those heading to Hiiumaa on Friday afternoon and returning on Sunday afternoon. A 50% surcharge for vehicles applies after 1pm on these routes.
AUp to 70% of each boat’s capacity is presold online; the website has a real-time indicator showing what percentage has already been sold. The remaining 30% is kept for drive-up customers and offered on a first-in, first-on basis. You should consider prebooking at busy times, particularly around weekends in summer.
ATickets purchased online must either be printed out or loaded as an e-ticket on your phone. If you’re driving, your licence plate should suffice to show you’ve paid.
AIf you miss your prebooked boat, your ticket will be valid for the regular queue on subsequent boats for up to 48 hours.
AFerry services also operate between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa.
BUS
There are two daily buses between Kärdla and Tallinn (€13, four hours) and one between Käina and Tallinn (€12, 3½ hours), all of which stop in Suuremõisa, Heltermaa, Rohuküla and Haapsalu.
8Getting Around
Paved roads circle Hiiumaa and cover several side routes; the rest are unsealed, and can get very pitted and uneven as they snake through coastal forests. Like many of the quiet nooks of rural Estonia, Hiiumaa is a great place to explore by bike, something you’ll see many Estonians doing when the weather smiles. It’s compact, almost uniformly flat and none of the roads are particularly busy – unless you happen to hit the rapidly dispersing traffic coming off the ferry.
There are petrol stations at Kärdla, Käina and Emmaste. Many accommodation providers can arrange car or bike hire, as can Takso Autorent (%511 2225; www.carrent-hiiumaa.ee; Kaare 10, Kärdla) in Kärdla, which rents out cars from €25 per day.
Buses, nearly all radiating from Kärdla but some from Käina, get to most places on the island, though are understandably infrequent. Schedules are posted inside the bus station in Kärdla, and online at www.peatus.ee.
Kärdla
POP 3281
Hiiu County’s capital and Hiiumaa’s largest town, known from records since the 16th century, flourished around a cloth factory founded in 1829 and destroyed during WWII. It’s a green, spacious place of gardens and tree-lined streets, with a sleepy atmosphere and few diversions. Still, it’s Hiiumaa’s centre for services of all kinds and if you need to stock up on provisions, it has a couple of supermarkets.
The town sits on the edge of the world’s ‘best-preserved Palaeozoic meteorite crater’, not that you’d know it as, despite being 4km in diameter, it’s barely visible. It’s fair to say that you wouldn’t want to have been visiting here 455 million years ago when the impact occurred.
1Sights
Long HouseMUSEUM
(Pikk Maja; %463 0291; www.muuseum.hiiumaa.ee; Vabrikuväljak 8; adult/student €4/2.50; h10am-5.30pm daily May-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr; p)
Built in the 1830s, this handsome, 60m-long timber house once lodged the directors of the Hiiu-Kärdla textile factory, burnt out in WWII. It’s now perhaps the best of the four scattered branches of the Hiiumaa Museum, displaying artefacts related to the factory, a reconstructed worker’s cottage, work by local artists and a collection of Estonian military- and civil-service medals.
Kärdla BeachBEACH
(Lubjaahju)
While not spectacular, Kärdla’s extremely shallow beach is pleasant enough, with a mixed sand-and-grass shoreline edged by Rannapark. This expanse of lawns and forest was partly built on the site of a Swedish cemetery.
4Sleeping
Kivijüri GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE€€
(Kivijüri Külalistemaja; %526 9915; www.kivijuri.ee; Kõrgessaare mnt 1; s/d €40/60; pW)
This cosy, bright-red country house has only four pleasant rooms, each with TV and bathroom. Breakfast is excellent and there’s a backyard patio and lawn to unwind on. The entire house can be rented for €250 per day, with breakfast, and the hospitable, multilingual owners can arrange bike and car rental.
Padu HotellHOTEL€€
(%463 3037; www.paduhotell.ee; Heltermaa mnt 22; s/d/apt €50/70/80; pW)
You may feel like you’re sleeping inside a sauna at the Padu, with pine predominating across the walls, floors, ceilings, doors and furniture. All rooms are cosy and decently equipped, (including balconies) but the apartments are quite a bit bigger and some have private saunas (for €10 more). There’s also a communal sauna and on-site cafe.
At just €5 extra per person for a one-course evening meal, the half-board option is excellent value.
5Eating & Drinking
oKuurEUROPEAN€€
(%5689 6333; www.restokuur.ee; Sadama 28; mains €14-16; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; pW)
The name means ‘shed’, but this delightful harbourside restaurant easily confounds any low expectations that name sets. Smoking its own fish, welcoming guests into an eclectically stylish ‘beach shack’ dining room–bar, and (most importantly) serving top-notch food alongside judiciously chosen wines, it’s a real treat. The spicy seafood soup, a brick-red, piquant fishy broth poured over the local catch, is delicious.
Linnumäe PuhkekeskusEUROPEAN€€
(%521 5931; www.linnumae.ee; Linnumäe küla; mains €11-13; h9am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; pW)
Technically in Linnumäe, a village blending into the southeastern approach to Kärdla, this restaurant-bar is a cut above the typical roadside joint. Big on BBQ, baby-back ribs, grilled chicken and other meaty favourites, the skilful kitchen also offers pastas, salads and burgers. The interior is cosily fire-lit, or you can lounge outside in fine weather.
RannapaarguCLUB
(%5666 6800; www.rannapaargu.ee; Lubjaahju 3; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
This imposing, A-framed wooden establishment overlooking Kärdla Beach is a daytime cafe and night-time club. The food isn’t memorable, but on Fridays and Saturdays in summer around 300 people descend to party to DJs and live bands. It doesn’t properly kick off until well after midnight.
8Information
Hiiumaa Tourist Office (%504 5393; www.hiiumaa.eu; Hiiu 1; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, noon-5pm Mon-Fri rest of year), the principal office for the island, is located in the centre of Kärdla.
Western Hiiumaa
The western half of Hiiumaa is sparsely populated, even for Estonia. Knobbly Tahkuna Peninsula was the scene of a vicious battle between German and Soviet troops during WWII.
The island ends at the narrow Kõpu Peninsula, stretching due west like an index finger pointing straight at Stockholm. If you’ve been to a few Estonian beaches and refuse to believe that anyone could surf here, be prepared to be proved wrong. At Ristna, where the peninsula protrudes out into the Baltic currents, waves of up to 10m have been seen. It’s a dangerous stretch with rips that will do their darnedest to deliver you on the doorstep of Finland, but for experienced surfers it’s a blast.
Sõru, where the ferries leave for Saaremaa, is a beautiful spot, with a reed-lined forested shore stretching out in both directions.
LIGHTHOUSE COMBO
If you’re planning on climbing all three of Hiiumaa’s lighthouses, a combined ticket is available (adult/student €7/5). Buy it at the first lighthouse you visit.
1Sights & Activities
Mihkli Farm MuseumMUSEUM
(Mihkli Talumuuseum; %566 66895; www.muuseum.hiiumaa.ee; Malvaste; adult/child €3/2; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat May, Tue-Sun Jun-Aug; p)
Hidden away in the forest at Malvaste, 2km north of the Kärdla–Kõrgessaare road, this farm complex, founded by Swedes deported in 1781, is preserved as one of the four components of Hiiumaa Museum. Its original buildings, including a working smoke sauna (€90 for up to 10 people, if booked at least a day ahead), give an authentic taste of basic rural life in Hiiumaa.
Hiiumaa Military MuseumMUSEUM
(Hiiumaa Militaarmuuseum; www.militaarmuuseum.ee; Tahkuna Village; adult/student €3/1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-May–mid-Sep; p)
Despite limited English captions, this small museum in a former Soviet border guard station is quite engrossing, providing insight into the battles fought on this peaceful island in WWII, and its position on the Soviet frontier. There are big items of military hardware to peruse in the yard, while inside there are uniforms, photographs, posters, weapons and medals.
Tahkuna LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
(Tahkuna Tuletorn; adult/child €2/1; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun May–mid-Sep)
Dating from 1874, this 43m lighthouse watches over Tahkuna Peninsula’s northwest tip. Beyond the lighthouse stands an eerie memorial to the victims of the MS Estonia ferry disaster. Facing out to sea, the 12m-tall metal frame encases a cross from the bottom of which a bell with sculpted children’s faces is suspended; it only rings when the wind blows with the same force and in the same direction as that fatal night in September 1994, when the Estonia went down.
Between the memorial and the lighthouse is a curious low stone labyrinth, a replica of an ancient one found on the island. The idea is that you follow the path between the stones as a form of meditation.
According to Soviet military lore concerning the battle that raged in this vicinity during the Nazi invasion of 1941, the Red Army fought to the bitter end, their last man climbing to the top of the lighthouse and flinging himself off while still firing at the Germans.
On the road leading to the lighthouse you’ll see deserted Soviet military installations, including a complete underground bunker that you can wander through; bring a torch (flashlight).
Kõpu LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
(Kõpu Tuletorn; www.tuletornikohvik.ee; Mägipe; adult/child €3/2; h10am-7pm May–mid-Sep; p)
With its pyramid-like base and stout square tower, the inland Kõpu lighthouse is the best-known landmark on Hiiumaa, and supposedly the third oldest in continuous operation anywhere. Built by the Hanseatic League to guide shipping to Tallinn, it was begun in the early 16th century, rebuilt in 1845, and automated in 1963. At 36m high, it can be seen nearly 50km away.
The attached cafe, acceptable for simple meals, shares the same hours as the lighthouse, and concerts are staged on the lawns in summer.
Ristna LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
(Ristna Tuletorn; Kalana; adult/child €3/2; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun May–mid-Sep; p)
Kõpu Peninsula’s second lighthouse stands 29.5m high, in all its blazing red glory at the western tip of the peninsula, only 200km from Stockholm. In 1874 it was shipped from Paris, where it was made, together with the lighthouse at Tahkuna. There’s a small cafe in the lighthouse-keeper’s cottage selling drinks and snacks such as herring with black bread.
Sõru MuseumMUSEUM
(%5376 4040; Pärna; adult/child €2/1; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-May)
Just inland from Sõru sadam (port) where the ferry to Saaremaa docks, this little community museum is worth a look. Downstairs you might find art from the village schoolkids or locally made feltwork, while upstairs there’s a permanent display containing the usual black-and-white photos of fisherfolk and farmers, interspersed with old nets, shipping charts and tools. At the very top you can scan the horizon on a heavy-duty set of Soviet border-guard binoculars.
Hill of CrossesMEMORIAL
(Ristimägi; p)
Northern Hiiumaa had a population of free Swedish farmers until they were forced to leave on the orders of Catherine the Great, with many ending up in the Ukraine on the false promise of a better life. This low forested ‘hill’ is where the last 1000 Swedes living on Hiiumaa performed their final act of worship before leaving, in 1781. It’s become a tradition for first-time visitors to brave the mosquitoes to lay a homemade cross here.
Surf ParadiisWATER SPORTS
(%505 1015; http://surfparadiis.paap.ee; Kalana; adult/child €40/20; hMay-Nov)
Set on a stretch of beach about 1km down a rutted, sandy road from Ristna (the turn-off is just before you reach the lighthouse), this outfit offers all manner of wet and wild activities. A day pass gets you access to surfing, SUP-ing, kayaking, rowing, snorkelling and other water sports, or you can rent each individually by the hour.
Add-ons include jet skiing, banana-boat rides, fishing, archery and even axe-throwing. There’s also accommodation available (double €40) and a beach bar that looks as though it’s built from driftwood, but hosts big parties with DJs and makes a mean mojito.
It’s a good idea to call ahead, as all activities are weather-dependent, and the place is sometimes booked solidly by groups.
Ristna is a surprisingly demanding surfing spot, so don’t attempt to go it alone without first coordinating with the centre, which operates a lifeguard and first aid service.
MS ESTONIA: CONSIGNED TO MYSTERY
About 30 nautical miles northwest of Hiiumaa’s Tahkuna Peninsula lies the wreck of the ferry Estonia, which sank during a storm just after midnight on 28 September 1994, en route from Tallinn to Stockholm. Only 137 people survived the tragedy, which claimed 852 lives in Europe’s worst peacetime maritime disaster.
Comparable in scale and impact to the sinking of the Titanic, the tragedy remains the subject of contention and conspiracy theory. In 1997 the final report of the Joint Accident Investigation Commission (JAIC), an official inquiry by the Estonian, Swedish and Finnish governments, concluded that the ferry’s design was at fault and the crew were probably underskilled in emergency procedures. The report claimed the bow gate was engineered inadequately for rough sailing conditions and that during the storm the visor was torn from the bow, exposing the car deck to tonnes of seawater that sank the Estonia completely within one hour. Escape time for the 989 people on board was estimated at only 15 minutes and they were denied access to lifeboats due to the sudden list and sinking of the ferry. For those who did escape, the freezing conditions of the water that night reduced survival time to only minutes.
The integrity of the report was questioned after dissent within the JAIC became public. In 2000 a joint US-German diving expedition and new analysis of the Estonia’s recovered visor prompted theories of an explosion on board. Conspiracy theorists claim that the Estonia was transporting unregistered munitions cargo, as an illicit trade in weapons was to be curtailed with new export laws about to come into effect. Claims of a cover-up have been bolstered by the alleged disappearance of eight crew members, initially listed as survivors.
Unexplained interference with the wreck, along with the Swedish government’s dumping of sand to stabilise it in 2000, further fuelled conspiracy claims and calls for a new inquiry. The governments of Estonia, Finland and Sweden are resolute that the ferry will remain where it sank as a memorial to the dead; the remains of more than 650 people are estimated to be inside.
Käina
POP 730
Hiiumaa’s second-largest settlement is a nondescript kind of place, its most interesting feature being the hulking ruins of St Martin’s Church (c 1500), which was set ablaze by a German tracer bullet in 1941. It’s inaccessible, yet its austere, roofless bulk begs a photo-stop if passing through.
Rudolf Tobias House MuseumMUSEUM
(Rudolf Tobiase Majamuuseum; %463 2091; www.muuseum.hiiumaa.ee; Hiiu mnt; adult/student €3/2; h11am-5pm Wed-Sat mid-May–Aug; p)
On the western edge of Käina, the early-19th-century wood-and-thatch birthplace and childhood home of Rudolf Tobias (1873–1918), Estonia’s ‘first professional composer’, has been preserved in his memory as one of the four components of the dispersed Hiiumaa Museum. There’s no English signage but the staff are helpful, and there’s a windmill, well and barn asking to be photographed.
Hotell LiiliaHOTEL€€
(%463 6146; www.hiiumaale.ee; Hiiu mnt 22; s/d/tr €69/88/107; pW)
In the lee of Käina’s only real landmark, the roofless ruin of 16th-century St Martin’s Church, Liilia offers two floors of simple well-kept rooms with pale wooden floors and ceilings. There’s also a large restaurant downstairs with a pleasant terrace, open 11am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, and for prebooked breakfast.
Kassari
POP 260
Covered with mixed woodland, pastures and marshes, and fringed by striking coastal scenery, this 8km-long island is linked to Hiiumaa by two causeways that virtually cut off Käina Bay from the open sea. Protected since 1962, the bay is an important bird reserve, serving as a breeding ground for about 70 different species. You can get a good view of its avian action from the birdwatching tower north of Orjaku. During the hot summer months a large part of the bay dries up and becomes not much more than a muddy field.
1Sights & Activities
Kassari Exposition BuildingMUSEUM
(Kassari Ekpositsioonimaja; %5695 1843; www.muuseum.hiiumaa.ee; adult/student €4/2.50; h10am-6pm daily May-Sep, to 5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr; p)
Located in an old limestone lodge that once formed part of the local manor, and making up one-quarter of the dispersed Hiiumaa Museum, this small exposition showcases artefacts and exhibits on Hiiumaa’s history and biodiversity. Among the curiosities: a 1955 Russian-made TV, the jewel-like prism of the 1874 Tahkuna lighthouse and the stuffed body of the wolf that allegedly terrorised the island until its 1971 demise. It also sells excellent handicrafts and special island postal stamps.
Sääre TirpNATURAL FEATURE
Southern Kassari narrows to a promontory with some unusual vegetation and ends in the thin, 3km spit of land known as Sääre Tirp. An end-of-the-world kind of place, it’s beautiful for a walk and there’s free RMK camping amid the juniper bushes, including fireplaces and toilets, where the road comes to an end.
Kassari ChapelCHAPEL
(Kassari kabel; Esiküla; hnoon-5pm Thu-Sat mid-Jun–Aug)
There’s no electricity supply to this pretty, whitewashed, thatch-roofed, Lutheran chapel (1801) at the eastern end of Kassari island, meaning that services are still held in enchanting candlelight. The main distinguishing feature of the sober wood-and-whitewash interior is an unusual pulpit positioned above the altar. It’s a good destination for a drive, walk or ride; follow the sign down the dirt road from the easternmost point of the island’s sealed road.
Kassari RatsamatkadHORSE RIDING
(%508 3642, 518 9693; www.kassari.ee; Esiküla; trail ride per hour/day €20/60)
Signposted from the main road running down Kassari’s eastern flank, Hiiumaa’s largest horse farm offers a range of excursions, from short trail rides to day-long treks through forests, marshes, pastureland and unpeopled coastline.
4Sleeping & Eating
oDagen HausB&B€€
(%518 2555; www.dagen.ee; Orjaku; d from €95; pW)
One of Hiiumaa’s loveliest options, this restored mid-19th-century granary has rough-hewn walls, timber beams and five stylish bedrooms. The gorgeous communal areas, including a glass-walled terrace overlooking Käina Bay, invite lingering, or you can book one of four separate holiday houses nearby, each sleeping up to five people (€109 to €219). Book well ahead.
Kassari PuhkekeskusHOTEL€€
(%463 6146; www.hiiumaale.ee; Kassari Village; tw/apt €85/100; paW)
Abandoned factories are a dime a dozen in Estonia, but cool conversions like this one are scarce. The decor is fresh and modern, and of the 15 rooms even the standards have microwaves and little balconies. Apartments have separate living areas and proper kitchenettes, and open onto a large shared terrace with a spa.
There’s a very appealing restaurant and brewhouse attached, rentals can be organised (bikes per hour/day €5/15; rowboat per two hours €20) and there’s a sauna for cold weather (first hour €25).
Vetsi TallESTONIAN€
(%463 6146; www.hiiumaale.ee; Kassari Village; mains €7-10, sites per person €5, cabins d/tr €40/60, apt €100; hnoon-10pm Wed & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun Jun-Sep; pW)
On the western fringe of Kassari Village, this dark and atmospheric tavern (dating from 1843) offers hefty serves of simple food such as herring with cottage cheese and potato. Tiny barrel-shaped wooden cabins are set amid the surrounding apple orchard and camping is also possible, although bathroom facilities are rudimentary. There’s also a two-bedroom apartment above the tavern.
Lest & Lammas GrillESTONIAN€€
(%463 6146; www.hiiumaale.ee; Kassari Village; mains €10-12; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun Jun-Aug, by arrangement autumn and spring; pW)
The name means ‘flounder and sheep’ and the emphasis is on the excellent fish and lamb that Hiiumaa is renowned for, alongside curios such as a Kassari herdsman’s stew of ‘butcher’s choice’ meat and hemp seeds, and a wholesome chickpea and buckwheat creation. There’s also house-cured meats for sale, excellent house-brewed beer, and an inviting, landscaped terrace for warm weather.
Lest & Lammas is part of the Kassari Puhkekeskus holiday complex.
Vormsi
POP 231
Vormsi, Estonia’s fourth-biggest island (93 sq km), rose from the sea around 3000 years ago and continues to rise at a rate of 3mm per year (its highest point is a modest 13m above sea level and is apparently a hiding place for trolls). Except for its voracious mosquitoes, the island has only ever been sparsely inhabited and as a consequence its forests, coastal pastures and wooded meadows have remained relatively undisturbed. Swedes arrived in the 13th century and before WWII they formed the overwhelming majority of the island’s then 2500 residents. They fled back to Sweden en masse during WWII and few have returned.
1Sights
The island, 16km from east to west and averaging 6km from north to south, is a good place to tour by bicycle; there is about 10km of paved road. From the ferry it’s 1.5km to the village of Sviby. The cheerfully named Hullo, Vormsi’s largest village, lies about 3km west of here. You’ll spot ruins of a Russian Orthodox church within an old collective farm, right by the Hullo turn-off. Two kilometres south of here is the much smaller Rumpo (these people really do have a way with names!), sitting on an attractive juniper-covered peninsula jutting into Hullo Bay, protected as the Vormsi Landscape Reserve.
Vormsi doesn’t have a tourist office, but there are information boards near the ferry wharf.
Vormsi Landscape ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(Vormsi Maastikukaitseala; Rumpo)
The 3km-long peninsula south of Rumpo, plus the 30 islets in Hullo Bay, are protected as the Vormsi Landscape Reserve. It’s a haven for rare lichens and coastal birds, and there’s a 6.7km hiking trail running its length, punctuated by three observation towers.
Vormsi Farm MuseumMUSEUM
(Vormsi Talumuuseum; %530 88320; Sviby; adult/child €2.50/1; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun late May–mid-Sep)
Vormsi’s Swedish heritage is kept alive in this restored farmstead, also known as Pears Farm. It’s a fascinating insight into the ways of a population that fled wartime chaos in 1944, including its distinctive fashion sense (the women wore chunky red socks to advertise their strong legs; nobody wanted a wife who couldn’t perform heavy manual work).
St Olaf’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(Püha Olavi kirik; Hullo; h10.30am-12.30pm Sun May-Sep)
There’s a colourful little statue of the saint with his trusty axe in the niche above the door of this squat, whitewashed 14th-century church, just out of Hullo. It has a fine baroque painted pulpit (1660) and medieval ceiling paintings.
Saxby LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
(Saxby; adult/reduced €2/1; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun Jun-Aug)
Built in 1864, this 24m lighthouse is a short walk from Saxby, the island’s westernmost settlement. It’s especially scenic at sunset.
WORTH A TRIP
SUUREMÕISA
Meaning ‘great estate’, Suuremõisa village is notable for its stately 18th-century manor house (Suuremõisa Loss; %515 8381; www.suuremoisa-loss.eu; Suuremõisa; adult/student €2/1.50; h10am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Sep-May; p), and nearby Pühalepa Church. Lending its name to the sleepy, surrounding settlement, soberly symmetrical Suuremõisa Manor was built between 1755 and 1760 by Countess Ebba Margaretha Stenbock, over the foundations of earlier structures perhaps dating back to the Livonian Order, which owned this estate in medieval times. While the exterior of the house and its once-landscaped gardens are quite neglected, the interior, largely dating to the early 20th century and including a grand oak staircase and dolomite stone floors, has seen some restoration.
Pühalepa, founded by the German Livonian Order in the 13th century, is Hiiumaa’s oldest stone church. Completed as a simpler fortress-church in the 14th century, its distinctive Lutheran steeple was added in the 18th century. Close to Heltermaa, where the ferry to the mainland docks, Suuremõisa is definitely only a pit stop, with nowhere to sleep or eat.
4Sleeping & Eating
You can find accommodation options online (www.vormsi.ee) or at the tourist office in Haapsalu.
Rumpo Mäe PuhketaluB&B€€
(%5342 9926; www.rumpomae.ee; Rumpo; d/tr €65/90; hApr-Nov; W)
Just a few steps from the lovely reed-fringed coast at Rumpo, this handsome thatched-roof farmhouse has en-suite rooms with an old-style ambience. More basic accommodation is offered in a rustic sauna house (twin €55) and the eight-bed ‘small house’ (whole house for eight, with breakfast €235), and there’s also a field for campers (€18 per person, with breakfast).
Elle-Malle KülalistemajaB&B€€
(%5647 2854; ellemalle@gmail.com; Hullo; per person €30; p)
In a peaceful location between Hullo and St Olaf’s Church, this friendly guesthouse has five tidy pine-lined rooms in the main house and a romantic double loft room in a separate wooden cottage (with a private bathroom below). Meals can be arranged (three-course dinner €9) and Elle-Malle (the owner) also sells a small but high-quality selection of local antiques.
Hullo KauplusSUPERMARKET€
(Hullo; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun; W)
Stock up on victuals in Hullo’s small general store; there’s a post office and internet point attached.
Krog No. 14PUB FOOD€€
(%514 1418; www.krog.ee; Hullo; mains €11-12; hnoon-7pm Sun & Mon, to 10pm Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat Jun-Aug; p)
Sitting pretty on the road into Hullo, this red-brick tavern, open in summer, is a delightful place to while away an aimless Vormsi afternoon. The food is simple and delicious: pike cutlets with potato and dill-lemon sauce, wild-boar stew, and other satisfying plates.
8Getting There & Around
Vormsi lies just 3km off the Estonian mainland. Kihnu Veeteed (https://new.veeteed.com) plies the 10km route between Rohuküla and Sviby three to five times daily (single ticket per adult/child/car/bike €3.20/1.60/7/1, 45 minutes). There’s a 50% surcharge for boats departing Rohuküla after 1pm on Fridays and departing Sviby after 1pm on Sundays. If you’re taking a vehicle in the summer, reserve a place in advance online.
Just after the ferry landing, Sviby Bike Rental (Sviby Jalgrattalaenutus; %517 8722; h9am-7pm May-Sep) rents bikes for €15 per day, and motor-scooters for €40 per day.
UNDERSTAND ESTONIA
Estonia Today
The long, grey days of Soviet rule are well behind Estonia. Today, first-time visitors are astonished by the gusto with which the country has embraced the market economy since regaining independence in 1991. Entrepreneurship is widespread, the economy has diversified considerably, tourism is flourishing, and the dining and cultural landscapes are rich.
It’s in the digital sphere that Estonia has excelled, earning it the nickname ‘e-Stonia’ in the tech world. Various innovations have originated from Estonian software designers, most notably Skype, which allows free voice and video calls to be made over the internet. Estonian citizens can vote, lodge their taxes and affix a digital signature to documents online, and in 2014 Estonia became the first country to offer a virtual ‘e-Residency’ to nonresidents.
Estonia has been lauded as the outstanding economic success story of the former USSR. It has joined the EU, NATO, Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and the Eurozone.
Having politically and economically shaken off the Soviet era, Estonia’s gaze is very much to the west and the north. Its people view themselves as having more in common (linguistically and culturally) with their Finnish neighbours than they do with Latvia and Lithuania to the south, and see the ‘Baltic States’ label as a handy geographic reference, but not much more. There’s even been talk of further cementing ties with Finland by building a tunnel under the Gulf of Finland to connect the two countries, but the cost of the proposed 50km tunnel, which would be the longest in the world, is likely to be prohibitive.
Meanwhile, if Estonia is increasingly facing west, it’s also nervously looking over its shoulder to the Great Bear to the east. The Russian annexation of Crimea and the armed conflict in the Ukraine (widely believed in these parts to have been fomented by the Kremlin) have rattled the nerves of many in this newly independent country. People here are painfully aware of the fleeting nature of the first Estonian independence in the interwar decades. That the current period of statehood has now lasted longer than the first offers only limited reassurance.
Estonia’s response to the Ukrainian crisis has been to enthusiastically support sanctions against the Russian Federation and to simultaneously strengthen ties with NATO, with former president Toomas Ilves (2006–16) calling for a permanent base to be stationed on Estonian soil.
Tensions with Russia escalated in 2015 when an Estonian security officer was sentenced by a Russian court to 15 years in prison for spying; the Russians insist that they arrested him on their side of the border while the Estonians (and the EU) claim that he was kidnapped on the Estonian side. Estonia has now declared that it is planning to build a 110km-long, 2.5m-high fence on its land border with Russia (much of the rest of the border is defined by Lake Peipsi and the Narva River).
At the same time, the Estonian government is increasingly aware of the need to improve relations with its own large ethnic Russian minority, a substantial chunk of which have yet to gain Estonian citizenship. While the average Russian living in Estonia has a higher standard of living than the average Russian living in Russia, they still lag behind their Estonian compatriots. A 2015 Amnesty International report noted that Estonia’s ethnic minorities, of which Russians are by far the largest, are disproportionately affected by unemployment and poverty.
A drive through some of the crumbling towns of the northeast, where both work and hope are in short supply, gives some clue to the Russian plight. Russian speakers are over-represented in the prison population, HIV infection rates and drug-addiction statistics, and the greater social problems in the Russian community in turn feed the negative stereotypes that some Estonians have about Russians.
While instances of overt hostility based on ethnicity or race are infrequent, they do occasionally occur. The tension, and ultimately violence, that was sparked by the government’s decision in 2007 to move a Soviet-era war memorial from the centre of Tallinn demonstrated that fissures remain between the country’s ethnic Russians and the rest of the population, and there are regular complaints (from the Russian media, in particular) that Russian-speaking minorities in Estonia are being discriminated against. One strategy from the Estonian side has been to attempt to curb the influence of the Russian media by promoting Russian-language news services from within Estonia.
The delicate situation is now in the hands of Kersti Kaljulaid, elected in 2016 as Estonia’s first female head of state.
History
Beginnings
Estonia’s oldest human settlements date back 10,000 years, with Stone Age tools found near present-day Pärnu. Finno-Ugric tribes from the east (probably around the Urals) came centuries later – most likely around 3500 BC – mingling with Neolithic peoples and settling in present-day Estonia, Finland and Hungary. They took a liking to their homeland and stayed put, spurning the nomadic ways that characterised most other European peoples over the next four millennia.
THE SOURCE OF EESTI
In the 1st century AD the Roman historian Tacitus described a people known as the ‘Aestii’. In rather crude fashion he depicted them as worshipping goddess statues and chasing wild boars with wooden clubs and iron weaponry. These people were also known as traders of amber. Although Tacitus was describing the forerunners to the Lithuanians and Latvians, the name ‘Aestii’ was eventually applied specifically to the Estonians, who call themselves Eesti to this day.
The Christian Invasion
By the 9th and 10th centuries AD, Estonians were well aware of the Vikings, who seemed more interested in trade routes to Kyiv (Kiev) and Constantinople (Istanbul) than in conquering their sparsely populated land. The first real threat to their freedom came from Christian invaders from the south.
Following papal calls for a crusade against the northern heathens, Danish troops and German knights invaded Estonia, conquering the southern Estonian fortress of Otepää in 1208. The locals put up a fierce resistance and it took well over 30 years before the whole territory was conquered. By the mid-13th century Estonia was carved up between the Danes in the north and the German Teutonic Order in the south. The Order, hungry to move eastward, was powerfully repelled by Alexander Nevsky of Novgorod on frozen Lake Peipsi (marvellously imagined in Sergei Eisenstein’s film Alexander Nevsky).
The conquerors settled in at various newly established towns, handing over much power to the bishops. By the end of the 13th century, cathedrals rose over Tallinn and Tartu, around the time that the Cistercian and Dominican religious orders set up monasteries to preach to the locals and (try to) baptise them. Meanwhile, the Estonians continued to rebel.
The most significant uprising began on St George’s night (23 April) in 1343. It started in Danish-controlled northern Estonia when Estonians pillaged the Padise Cistercian monastery and killed all of the monks. They subsequently laid siege to Tallinn and the bishop’s castle in Haapsalu and called for Swedish assistance to help them finish the job. The Swedes did indeed send naval reinforcements across the gulf, but they came too late and were forced to turn back. Despite Estonian resolve, by 1345 the rebellion was crushed. The Danes, however, decided they’d had enough and sold their part of Estonia to the Livonian Order (a branch of the Teutonic Order).
The first guilds and merchant associations emerged in the 14th century, and many towns – Tallinn, Tartu, Viljandi and Pärnu – prospered as trade members of the Hanseatic League (a medieval trade federation). However, it was mainly German merchants who lived in these towns, while the native Estonians toiled as peasants in the countryside.
Estonians continued practising nature worship and pagan rites for weddings and funerals, though by the 15th century these rites became interlinked with Catholicism, and they began using Christian names. Peasants’ rights disappeared during the 15th century, so much so that by the early 16th century most Estonians became serfs (enslaved labourers bought and sold with the land).
The Reformation reached Estonia in the 1520s, with Lutheran preachers representing the initial wave. By the mid-16th century the Estonian church had been reorganised, with places of worship now under Lutheran authority, and monasteries closed down.
The Livonian War
During the 16th century the greatest threat to Livonia (now northern Latvia and southern Estonia) came from the east. Ivan the Terrible, who crowned himself the first Russian tsar in 1547, had his sights clearly set on westward expansion. Russian troops, led by ferocious Tatar cavalry, attacked in 1558, around the region of Tartu. The fighting was extremely bitter, with the invaders leaving a trail of destruction in their wake. Poland, Denmark and Sweden joined the fray, and intermittent fighting raged throughout the 17th century. Sweden emerged the victor.
Like all wars, this one took a heavy toll on the populace. During the two generations of warfare (roughly 1552 to 1629), half the rural population perished, about three-quarters of all farms were deserted, and disease (such as plague), crop failure and ensuing famine added to the war toll. Except for Tallinn, every castle and fortified centre in the country was ransacked or destroyed – including Viljandi Castle, once among northern Europe’s mightiest forts. Some towns were completely obliterated.
The Swedish Era
Following the war, Estonia entered a period of peace and prosperity under Swedish rule. Although the lot of the Estonian peasantry didn’t improve much, cities, boosted by trade, grew and prospered, helping the economy speedily recover from the ravages of war. Under Swedish rule, Estonia was united for the first time in history under a single ruler. This period is regarded as an enlightened episode in the country’s long history of foreign oppression.
The Swedish king granted the Baltic-German aristocracy a certain degree of self-government and even generously gave them lands that were deserted during the war. Although the first printed Estonian-language book dates from 1535, the publication of books didn’t get under way until the 1630s, when Swedish clergy founded village schools and taught the peasants to read and write. Estonian intellectual life received an enormous boost with the founding of Tartu University in 1632.
By the mid-17th century, however, things were going steadily downhill. An outbreak of plague, and later the Great Famine (1695–97), killed off 80,000 people – almost 20% of the population. Peasants, who for a time enjoyed more freedom of movement, soon lost their gains. The Swedish king, Charles XI (1660–97), wanted to abolish serfdom in Estonian crown manors (peasants enjoyed freedom in Sweden), but the local Baltic-German aristocracy fought bitterly to preserve the legacy of enforced servitude.
The Great Northern War
Soon Sweden faced serious threats from an anti-Swedish alliance of Poland, Denmark and Russia – countries seeking to regain lands lost in the Livonian War. The Great Northern War began in 1700 and after a few successes (including the defeat of the Russians at Narva), the Swedes began to fold under the assaults on multiple fronts. By 1708 Tartu had been destroyed and all of its survivors shipped to Russia. By 1710 Tallinn capitulated and Sweden had been routed.
The Enlightenment
Russian domination was bad news for the native Estonian peasants. War (and the 1710 plague) left tens of thousands dead. Swedish reforms were rolled back by Peter I (1682–1725), destroying any hope of freedom for the surviving serfs. Conservative attitudes towards Estonia’s lower class didn’t change until the Enlightenment, in the late 18th century.
Among those influenced by the Enlightenment was Catherine the Great (1762–96), who curbed the privileges of the elite while instituting quasi-democratic reforms. It wasn’t until 1816, however, that Estonia’s peasants were finally liberated from serfdom. They also gained surnames, greater freedom of movement and even limited access to self-government. By the second half of the 19th century, the peasants started buying farmsteads from the estates, and earning an income from crops such as potatoes and flax (the latter commanding particularly high prices during the US Civil War, which curtailed American cotton exports to Europe).
National Awakening
The late 19th century was Estonia’s time of national awakening. Led by a new native elite, the country marched towards nationhood. The first Estonian-language newspaper, Perno Postimees, appeared in 1857. It was published by Johann Voldemar Jannsen, one of the first to use the term ‘Estonians’ rather than maarahvas (country people). Other influential thinkers included Carl Robert Jakobson, who fought for equal political rights for Estonians and founded Sakala, Estonia’s first political newspaper.
Numerous Estonian societies formed, and in 1869 the first Song Festival was held. Estonia’s rich folklore also emerged from obscurity, particularly with the publication of Kalevipoeg, Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald’s poetic epic that melded together hundreds of Estonian legends and folk tales. Other poems, particularly works by Lydia Koidula, helped shape the national consciousness – one imprinted with the memory of 700 years of slavery.
Rebellion & WWI
The late 19th century was also a period of rampant industrialisation, marked by the development of an extensive railway network linking Estonia with Russia, and by the establishment of large factories. Socialism and discontent accompanied those grim workplaces, with demonstrations and strikes led by newly formed worker parties. Events in Estonia mimicked those in Russia, and in January 1905, as armed insurrection flared across the border, Estonia’s workers joined the fray. Tension mounted until autumn that year, when 20,000 workers went on strike. Tsarist troops responded brutally by killing and wounding 200.
The response of Tsar Nicholas II (1894–1917) provoked the Estonian rebels, who continued to destroy the property of the old guard. Subsequently, thousands of soldiers arrived from Russia, quelling the rebellions; 600 Estonians were executed and hundreds more were sent to Siberia. Trade unions and progressive newspapers and organisations were closed down, and political leaders fled the country.
More radical plans to bring Estonia to heel – such as sending thousands of Russian peasants to colonise the country – were never realised. Instead, Russia’s tsar had another priority: WWI. Estonia paid a high price for Russia’s involvement – 100,000 men were drafted, 10,000 of whom were killed in action. Many Estonians went off to fight believing that if they helped defeat Germany, Russia would grant them nationhood. Russia had no intention of doing so. But by 1917 the matter was no longer the tsar’s to decide. In St Petersburg, Nicholas II was forced to abdicate and the Bolsheviks seized power. As chaos swept across Russia, Estonia seized the initiative and on 24 February 1918 it effectively declared its independence.
The War of Independence
Would-be independent Estonia faced threats from both Russia and Baltic-German reactionaries. War erupted as the Red Army quickly advanced, overrunning half the country by January 1919. Estonia fought back tenaciously, and with the help of British warships and Finnish, Danish and Swedish troops, it defeated its long-time enemy. In December Russia agreed to a truce and on 2 February 1920 it signed the Tartu Peace Treaty, which renounced forever Russia’s rights of sovereignty over Estonian territory. For the first time in its history, Estonia was completely independent.
Fleeting Independence
In many ways, the independence period was a golden era. The mainly Baltic-German nobility were given a few years to sort their affairs before their manor houses were nationalised and their large estates broken up, with the land redistributed to the Estonian people. It was the first time many peasant farmers were able to own and work their own land.
The economy developed rapidly, with Estonia utilising its natural resources and attracting investment from abroad. Tartu University became a university for Estonians, and the Estonian language became the lingua franca for all aspects of public life, creating new opportunities in professional and academic spheres. Secondary education also improved (per capita the number of students surpassed most European nations) and an enormous book industry arose, with 25,000 titles published between 1918 and 1940 (again surpassing most European nations in books per capita).
On other fronts – notably the political one – independence was not so rosy. Fear of communist subversion (such as the failed 1924 coup d’état supported by the Bolsheviks) drove the government to the right. In 1934 Konstantin Päts, leader of the transitional government, along with Johan Laidoner, commander-in-chief of the Estonian army, violated the constitution and seized power, under the pretext of protecting democracy from extremist factions. Thus began the ‘era of silence’, a period of authoritarian rule that dogged the fledgling republic until WWII.
The Soviet Invasion & WWII
Estonia’s fate was sealed when Nazi Germany and the USSR negotiated a secret pact in 1939, essentially handing Estonia over to Stalin. The Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, a nonaggression pact between the USSR and Nazi Germany, secretly divided Eastern Europe into Soviet and German spheres of influence. Estonia fell into the Soviet sphere. At the outbreak of WWII, Estonia declared itself neutral, but Moscow forced it to sign a mutual assistance pact. Thousands of Russian soldiers subsequently arrived, along with military, naval and air bases. Estonia’s Communist Party orchestrated a sham rebellion whereby ‘the people’ demanded to be part of the USSR. President Päts, General Laidoner and other leaders were sacked and sent off to Russian prison camps. A puppet government was installed and on 6 August 1940 the Supreme Soviet accepted Estonia’s ‘request’ to join the USSR.
Deportations and WWII devastated the country. Tens of thousands were conscripted and sent not to fight but to work (and usually die) in labour camps in northern Russia. Thousands of women and children were also sent to gulags.
When Russia fled the German advance, many Estonians welcomed the Nazis as liberators; 55,000 Estonians joined home-defence units and Wehrmacht Ost battalions. The Nazis, however, did not grant statehood to Estonia and viewed it merely as occupied territory of the Soviet Union. Hope was crushed when the Germans began executing communist collaborators (7000 Estonian citizens were shot) and those Estonian Jews who hadn’t already fled the country (around 1000). To escape service in the German army (nearly 40,000 were conscripted), thousands fled to Finland and joined the Estonian regiment of the Finnish army.
In early 1944 the Soviet army bombed Tallinn, Narva, Tartu and other cities. Narva’s baroque Old Town was almost completely destroyed. The Nazis retreated in September 1944. Fearing the advance of the Red Army, many Estonians also fled and around 70,000 reached the West. By the end of the war one in 10 Estonians lived abroad. All in all, Estonia had lost over 280,000 people in the war (a quarter of its population). In addition to those who emigrated, 30,000 were killed in action and others were executed, sent to gulags or exterminated in concentration camps.
Back to the USSR
After the war, Estonia was immediately incorporated back into the Soviet Union. This began the grim epoch of Stalinist repression, with many thousands sent to prison camps and 19,000 Estonians executed. Farmers were forced into collectivisation and thousands of immigrants entered the country from other regions of the Soviet Union. Between 1945 and 1989 the percentage of native Estonians fell from 97% of the population to 62%.
Resistance took the form of a large guerrilla movement calling themselves the Metsavennad, or ‘Forest Brothers’. Around 14,000 Estonians armed themselves and went into hiding, operating in small groups throughout the country. The guerrillas had little success against the Soviet army, and by 1956 the movement had been effectively destroyed.
Although there were a few optimistic periods during the communist years (notably the ‘thaw’ under Khrushchev, where Stalin’s crimes were officially exposed), it wasn’t until the 1980s when Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev ushered in an era of perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness) that real change seemed a possibility.
The dissident movement in Estonia gained momentum and on the 50th anniversary of the 1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, a major rally took place in Tallinn. Over the next few months, more and more protests were held, with Estonians demanding the restoration of statehood. The Song Festival was one of Estonia’s most powerful vehicles for protest. The biggest took place in 1988 when 300,000 Estonians gathered in Tallinn’s Song Festival Grounds and brought much international attention to the Baltic plight.
In November 1989 the Estonian Supreme Soviet declared the events of 1940 an act of military aggression and therefore illegal. Disobeying Moscow’s orders, Estonia held free elections in 1990 and regained its independence in 1991.
TALLINN’S CHECHEN HERO
In January 1991 Soviet troops seized strategic buildings in Vilnius and Rīga, and soldiers were ordered to do the same in Tallinn. The commander of the troops at the time, however, disobeyed Moscow’s orders, and refused to open fire upon the crowd. He even threatened to turn the artillery under his command against any attempted invasion from Russia. That leader was Dzhokhar Dudayev, who would go on to become the president of Chechnya and lead its independence movement. He was killed by the Russian military in 1995. In Estonia he is fondly remembered for his role in bringing about Estonian independence.
Independent Estonia Mk 2
In 1992 the first general election under the new constitution took place, with a proliferation of newly formed parties. The Pro Patria (Fatherland) Union won a narrow majority after campaigning under the slogan ‘Cleaning House’, which meant removing from power those associated with communist rule. Pro Patria’s leader, 32-year-old historian Mart Laar, became prime minister.
Laar set to work transforming Estonia into a free-market economy, introducing the Estonian kroon as currency and negotiating the complete withdrawal of Russian troops, a source of particular anxiety for Estonians; the country breathed a collective sigh of relief when the last garrisons departed in 1994. Despite Laar’s successes, he was considered a hothead, and in 1994 was dismissed when his government received a vote of no confidence by the Riigikogu (National Council).
Following a referendum in September 2003, approximately 60% of Estonians voted in favour of joining the EU. The following spring, the country officially joined both the EU and NATO. This was followed by membership of the OECD in December 2010 and adoption of the euro in place of the short-lived kroon at the beginning of 2011.
Recurring post-EU-accession themes are the economy, increasing income inequality and strained relations with Russia, particularly over the issue of Estonia’s large Russian-speaking minority. In 2016 history was made when Estonia elected its first female head of state, President Kersti Kaljulaid.
WAGE INEQUALITY & SALMON SANDWICHES
According to Eurostat, in 2008 Estonian men earned an average of 30% more than Estonian women – the largest gender-income gap in the EU. In 2012, in a creatively obscure protest to highlight this gap (lõhe), participating cafes and restaurants on Equal Pay Day sold sandwiches made from salmon (which is also lõhe in Estonian) at a 30% surcharge when served with dill (in Estonian till, which doubles as a slang word for penis).
The People
Despite (or perhaps because of) centuries of occupation by Danes, Swedes, Germans and Russians, Estonians have tenaciously held onto their national identity, and are deeply, emotionally connected to their history, folklore and national song tradition. The Estonian Literary Museum in Tartu holds over 1.3 million pages of folk songs, the world’s second-largest collection (Ireland has the largest), and Estonia produces films for one of the world’s smallest audiences (only Iceland produces for a smaller audience).
According to the popular stereotype, Estonians (particularly Estonian men) are reserved and aloof. Some believe it has much to do with the weather – those long, dark nights breeding endless introspection. This reserve also extends to gross displays of public affection, brash behaviour and intoxication – all frowned upon. This is assuming that there isn’t a festival under way, such as Jaanipäev, when friends, family and acquaintances gather in the countryside for drinking, dancing and revelry.
Estonians are known for their strong work ethic, but when they’re not toiling in the fields, or putting in long hours at the office, they head to the countryside. Ideal weekends are spent at the family cottage, picking berries or mushrooms, walking through the woods, or sitting with friends soaking up the quiet beauty. Owning a country house with a sauna is one of the national aspirations.
Of Estonia’s 1.3 million people, 69% are ethnic Estonians, 25% Russians, 2% Ukrainians, 1% Belarusians and 1% Finns. Ethnic Russians are concentrated in the industrial cities of the northeast, where in some places (such as Narva) they make up a clear majority of the population. Russians also have a sizeable presence in Tallinn (37%). These figures differ markedly from 1934, when native Estonians comprised over 90% of the population. Migration from other parts of the USSR occurred on a large scale from 1945 to 1955 and, over the next three decades, Estonia had the highest rate of migration of any of the Soviet republics.
One of the most overlooked indigenous ethnic groups in Estonia are the Seto people, who number up to 15,000, split between southeastern Estonia and neighbouring Russia.
According to a 2009 Gallup poll, Estonia was the least-religious country in the world (they’ve subsequently lost pole position to China), although many consider themselves spiritual, with a nature-based ethos being popular. Since the early 17th century, Estonia’s Christians have been predominantly Lutheran, although the Orthodox Church gained a foothold under the Russian Empire and has experienced a resurgence in recent years. Today only a minority of Estonians profess religious beliefs, with 16% identifying as Orthodox and 10% as Lutheran; no other religion can claim over 1% of the population.
Jews arrived in Estonia as early as the 14th century and by the early 1930s the population numbered 4300. Three-quarters escaped before the Nazi occupation; of those that remained, nearly all were killed. Today the Jewish population stands at around 2000, and in 2007 the Jewish community celebrated the opening of its first synagogue since the Holocaust, a striking modern structure at Karu 16, Tallinn.
KIIKING
From the weird and wacky world of Estonian sport comes kiiking. Invented in 1993, it’s the kind of extreme sport that, frankly, we’re surprised the New Zealanders didn’t think of first. Kiiking sees competitors stand on a swing and attempt to complete a 360-degree loop around the top bar, with their feet fastened to the swing base and their hands to the swing arms. The inventor of kiiking, Ado Kosk, observed that the longer the swing arms, the more difficult it is to complete a 360-degree loop. Kosk then designed swing arms that can gradually extend, for an increased challenge. In competition, the winner is the person who completes a loop with the longest swing arms – the current record stands at a fraction over 7m! If this concept has you scratching your head, go to www.kiiking.ee to get a more visual idea of the whole thing and to find out where you can see it in action (or even give it a try yourself).
The Arts
Estonia is an undeniably arty place, with its fledgling literature doing ever more to capture a unique national experience, theatre thriving and well patronised, a healthy proportion of locally made films in cinemas and, in summer, a positive explosion of festivals.
Music
On the international stage, the area in which Estonia has had the greatest artistic impact is in the field of classical music. Estonia’s most celebrated composer is Arvo Pärt (b 1935), the intense and reclusive master of hauntingly austere music many have misleadingly termed minimalist. Pärt emigrated to Germany during Soviet rule and his Misererie Litany, Te Deum and Tabula Rasa are among an internationally acclaimed body of work characterised by dramatic bleakness, piercing majesty and nuanced silence. He’s now the world’s most performed living classical-music composer.
The main Estonian composers of the 20th century remain popular today. Rudolf Tobias (1873–1918) wrote influential symphonic, choral and concerto works as well as fantasies on folk-song melodies. Mart Saar (1882–1963) studied under Rimsky-Korsakov in St Petersburg (although his music shows none of this influence). His songs and piano suites were among the most performed pieces of music in between-war concerts in Estonia. Eduard Tubin (1905–82) is another great Estonian composer whose body of work includes 10 symphonies. Contemporary composer Erkki-Sven Tüür (b 1959) takes inspiration from nature and the elements, as experienced on his native island of Hiiumaa.
Estonian conductors Tõnu Kaljuste (who won a Grammy in 2014 for a Pärt recording), Anu Tali and Paavo Järvi are hot tickets at concert halls around the world.
Hortus Musicus is Estonia’s best-known ensemble, performing mainly medieval and Renaissance music. Rondellus, an ensemble that has played in a number of early-music festivals, performs on medieval-period instruments and isn’t afraid of experimentation. Its well-received album Sabbatum (2002) is a tribute album of sorts to Black Sabbath – the only difference being the music is played on medieval instruments, and the songs are sung in Latin!
Rock and punk thrives in Estonia with groups such as Vennaskond and the heavy but timelessly Estonian Metsatöll, whose song titles and lyrics are rich in archaic Estonian language and imagery. The more approachable Ultima Thule and Smilers are among the country’s longest-running and most beloved bands.
The pop- and dance-music scene is also strong in Estonia, exemplified by Estonia’s performances in that revered indicator of true art, the Eurovision Song Contest. Tanel Padar won the competition in 2001, making Estonia the first former Soviet republic to achieve this success. The tough-girl band Vanilla Ninja hit the charts throughout Central Europe early in the millennium with various English-language tracks. Stig Rästa of local hitmakers Outloudz teamed up with reality-TV contestant Elina Born to represent Estonia at Eurovision 2015 with Goodbye to Love, which subsequently entered the charts in 10 countries.
Eccentric dance diva Kerli Kõiv, better known by her first name alone, has notched up two Billboard US Dance number ones since 2011. Another one to watch is DJ and producer Rauno Roosnurm (aka Mord Fustang), whose remixes have garnered him a following with international clubbers.
See www.estmusic.com for detailed listings and streaming samples of Estonian musicians of all genres.
CAN I BUY A VOWEL, PLEASE?
Intrigued by the national language? Fancy yourself a linguist? If you’re keen to tackle the local lingo, bear in mind that Estonian has 14 cases, no future tense and no articles. And then try wrapping your tongue around the following vowel-hungry words:
A jäääär – edge of the ice
A töööö – work night (can also be öötöö)
A kuuuurija – moon researcher
A kuuüür – monthly rent
And then give this a go: ‘Kuuuurijate töööö jäääärel’, or ‘a moon researcher’s work night at the edge of the ice’!
Literature
Estonian was considered a mere peasants’ language by the country’s foreign overlords, rather than one with full literary potential. As a result, the history of written Estonian is little more than 150 years old. Baltic Germans published an Estonian grammar book and a dictionary in 1637, but it wasn’t until the national awakening movement of the late 19th century that the publication of Estonian-language books, poetry and newspapers began.
Estonian literature grew from the poems and diaries of a young graduate of Tartu University, Kristjan Jaak Peterson. Also a gifted linguist, he died when he was only 21 years old in 1822. His lines ‘Can the language of this land/carried by the song of the wind/not rise up to heaven/and search for its place in eternity?’ are engraved in stone in Tartu and his birthday, 14 March, is celebrated as Mother Tongue Day (emakeelepäev).
Until the mid-19th century, Estonian culture was preserved only as an oral folk tradition among peasants. The national epic poem Son of Kalev (Kalevipoeg), written between 1857 and 1861 by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald (1803–82), made use of these rich oral traditions; it was inspired by Finland’s Kalevala, a similar epic created several decades earlier. Fusing hundreds of Estonian legends and folk tales, Son of Kalev relates the adventures of the mythical hero, which ends with his death and his land’s conquest by foreigners, but also a promise to restore freedom. The epic played a major role in fostering the national awakening of the 19th century.
Lydia Koidula (1843–86) was the poet of Estonia’s national awakening and its first lady of literature. Anton Hansen Tammsaare (1878–1940) is considered the greatest Estonian novelist for Truth and Justice (Tõde ja Õigus), written between 1926 and 1933. A five-volume saga of village and town life, it explores Estonian social, political and philosophical issues.
Eduard Vilde (1865–1933) was an influential early-20th-century novelist and playwright who wrote Unattainable Wonder (Tabamata Ime, 1912). It was due to be the first play performed at the opening of the Estonia Theatre in 1913, but was substituted with Hamlet, as Vilde’s scathing critique of the intelligentsia was deemed too controversial. In most of his novels and plays, Vilde looked with great irony at what he saw as Estonia’s mad, blind rush to become part of Europe. For Vilde, self-reliance was the truest form of independence.
Paul-Eerik Rummo (b 1942) is one of Estonia’s leading poets and playwrights, dubbed the ‘Estonian Dylan Thomas’ for his patriotic pieces, which deal with contemporary problems of cultural identity. His contemporary, Mati Unt (1944–2005), played an important role in cementing the place of Estonian intellectuals in the modern world, and wrote, from the 1960s onwards, quite cynical novels (notably Autumn Ball; Sügisball, 1979), plays and articles about contemporary life in Estonia.
The novelist Jaan Kross (1920–2007) won great acclaim for his historical novels in which he tackled Soviet-era subjects. His most renowned book, The Czar’s Madman (Keisri hull, 1978), relates the story of a 19th-century Estonian baron who falls in love with a peasant girl and later ends up in prison. It’s loosely based on a true story, though the critique of past- and present-day authoritarianism is the crux of the work.
Jaan Kaplinski (b 1941) has had two collections of poetry, The Same Sea in Us All and The Wandering Border, published in English. His work expresses the feel of Estonian life superbly. Kross and Kaplinski have both been nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature.
Tõnu Õnnepalu’s Border State (Piiri Riik, 1993, published under the pseudonym Emil Tode) is about a young Estonian man who travels to Europe and becomes a kept boy for an older, rich gentleman. This leads him down a tortuous road of self-discovery. Not a mere confessional, Border State is a clever and absorbing critique of modern Estonian values. In popular fiction, Kaur Kender’s Independence Day (Iseseisvuspäev, 1998) tells the misadventures of young and ambitious entrepreneurs in post-Independence Estonia.
The most acclaimed Estonian novel of recent times is Purge (Puhastus, 2008) by Sofi Oksanen, a harrowing tale weaving together Stalin’s purges and modern-day people-trafficking and sex slavery. A bestseller in Estonia and Finland, it’s won six major awards and has been published in 36 languages (including English). It was initially created as a play and it’s subsequently been made into a feature film and an opera.
Cinema
The first moving pictures were screened in Tallinn in 1896, and the first cinema opened in 1908. Estonia’s cinematic output has not been prolific, but there are a few standouts. It’s also worth noting that Estonia produces films for one of the world’s smallest audiences – far more per capita than neighbouring Baltic countries. Estonian films capture an impressive 14% of the filmgoing market share.
The nation’s most beloved film is Arvo Kruusement’s Spring (Kevade, 1969), an adaptation of Oskar Luts’ country saga. Its sequel, Summer (Suvi, 1976), was also popular, though regarded as inferior. Grigori Kromanov’s Last Relic (Viimne Reliikvia, 1969) was a brave and unabashedly anti-Soviet film that has been screened in 60 countries.
More recently Sulev Keedus’ lyrical Georgica (1998), about childhood, war, and life on the western islands, and Jaak Kilmi’s Pigs’ Revolution (Sigade Revolutsioon, 2004), about an anti-Soviet uprising at a teenagers’ summer camp, have made the rounds at international film festivals. Veiko Õunpuu’s 2007 film Autumn Ball (Sügisball), based on the novel by Mati Unt, won awards at seven festivals from Brussels to Bratislava.
In 2014 Tangerines (Mandariinid), an Estonian-Georgian co-production, became the first Estonian film to be nominated for the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film. Set in Georgia, it tells the story of two Estonian farmers who get caught in the crossfires of the war in Abkhazia.
One of Estonia’s most popular locally made films is Names in Marble (Nimed Marmortahvlil, 2002), which tells the story of a group of young classmates and their decision to fight in the War of Independence against the Red Army in 1918–20. It was directed by acclaimed Estonian stage director Elmo Nüganen, and is based on the book of the same name (by Albert Kivikas), banned during Soviet times.
Theatre
Many of Estonia’s theatres were built solely from donations by private citizens, which gives an indication of the role theatre has played in the country’s cultural life. This is also evidenced in theatregoing statistics: in 2013 Estonia came third in the EU for theatre attendance in the Eurobarometer survey of cultural participation (behind Sweden and the Netherlands). The results showed that 45% of Estonians attend the theatre at least once a year (the EU average is 28%). Travellers, however, will have trouble tapping into the scene without speaking Estonian.
Food & Drink
Cuisines from all over the world are represented in cosmopolitan Tallinn, and prices are lower than you’d pay for a similar meal in most European capitals. High-end restaurants tend to be influenced by New Nordic cuisine, a trend emphasising the pure, seasonal flavours of the north.
You’ll also find fantastic restaurants in Pärnu, Tartu, Otepää and various manor houses scattered around the countryside and islands.
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a standard main course.
€ less than €10
€€ €10–20
€€€ more than €20
Eesti Specialities
Did someone say ‘stodge’? Baltic gastronomy has its roots planted firmly in the land, with livestock and game forming the basis of a hearty diet that developed to sustain bodies performing hard rural labour. The Estonian diet relies on sealiha (pork), other red meat, kana (chicken), vurst (sausage) and kapsa (cabbage). Potatoes add a generous dose of winter-warming carbs to a national cuisine often dismissed as bland, heavy and lacking in spice. Sour cream is served with everything but coffee, it seems.
Kala (fish), most likely heeringas (herring), forell (trout) or lõhe (salmon), appears most often as a smoked or salted starter. Lake Peipsi is a particularly good place for tracking down suitsukala (smoked fish); look for roadside stands along the shore road. A more acquired taste is kilu, pickled Baltic sprat, often served in sandwiches or as part of a breakfast buffet.
Another favourite is kama, a thick milkshake-like drink made from a powdered mixture of boiled, roasted and ground peas, rye, barley and wheat mixed together with buttermilk or kefir (fermented milk). It’s often served as a dessert, with the addition of berries and sugar.
At Christmas time verivorst (blood sausage) is made from fresh blood and wrapped in pig intestine (joy to the world indeed!). Those really in need of a culinary transfusion will find verivorst, verileib (blood bread) and verikäkk (balls of blood rolled in flour and eggs with bits of pig fat thrown in for taste) available in some traditional Estonian restaurants. Sült (jellied meat) is likely to be served as a delicacy as well.
The seasons continue to play a large role in the Estonian diet. When spring arrives, wild leek, rhubarb, fresh sorrel and goat’s cheese appear, and the spring lambs are slaughtered. During summer there are fresh vegetables and herbs, along with berries, nuts and mushrooms gathered from the forests – still a popular pastime for many Estonians. Be sure to take advantage of the local turg (market) and load up on superbly flavoured strawberries (check you’re buying the local stuff, not imports).
Autumn was always the prime hunting season and although many species are now offered some protection through hunting quotas, you’ll often see elk, boar, deer and even bear making their way onto menus, year-round. In winter, Estonians turn to hearty roasts, stews, soups and plenty of sauerkraut.
Given the cuisine’s rustic origins, it’s not surprising that bread is a major staple in the diet, and that Estonians make a pretty good loaf. Rye is by far the top choice. Unlike other ryes you may have eaten, Estonian leib is moist, dense and delicious (assuming it’s fresh), and usually served as a free accompaniment to every restaurant meal.
Terviseks!
The traditional Estonian toast of terviseks translates as ‘your health’ (easier to remember if you think ‘topsy-turvy sex’). Beer is the favourite tipple in Estonia and the local product is much in evidence. The biggest brands are Saku and A Le Coq, which come in a range of brews. In winter Estonians drink mulled wine, the antidote to cold nights. Estonia’s ties to Russia have led to vodka’s enduring popularity.
EAT YOUR WORDS
Don’t know your kana from your kala? Your maasikas from your marjad? Get a head start on the cuisine scene by learning the words that make the dish.
| Useful Phrases | ||
| May I have a menu? | Kas ma saaksin menüü? | kas mah saahk-sin menüü |
| I’d like … | Ma sooviksin … | ma saw-vik-sin … |
| The bill, please | Palun arve | pah-lun ahrr-ve |
| I’m a vegetarian | Ma olen taimetoitlane | mah o-len tai-me-toyt-lah-ne |
| Bon appetit! | Head isu! | head i-su |
| To your health! (when toasting) | Terviseks! | ter-vi-seks |
| breakfast | hommikusöök | hom-mi-ku-serrk |
| lunch | lõuna | lyu-na |
| dinner | õhtusöök | er-tu-serrk |
| Food Glossary | ||
| berries | marjad | mahrr-yahd |
| cabbage | kapsas | kahp-sahs |
| caviar | kaaviar, kalamari | kaa-vi-ah, ka-la-mah-rri |
| cheese | juust | yoost |
| chicken | kana | kah-nah |
| fish | kala | kah-lah |
| fruit | puuviljad | poo-vil-yahd |
| grilled ‘chop’ | karbonaad | kah-bo-noahd |
| herring | räim, heeringas | rraim, heh-rrin-gahs |
| meat (red) | liha | li-hah |
| mushrooms | seened | seh-ned |
| pancake | pannkook | pahn-kawk |
| pork | sealiha | sea-li-ha |
| potato | kartul | kahrr-tul |
| rye bread | leib | layb |
| salmon | lõhe | ly-he |
| sausage | vorst | vorrst |
| sprats | kilud | ki-lud |
| strawberry | maasikas | mah-zikas |
| vegetables | köögivili | kerrg-vi-li |
| white bread | sai | sai |
Where, When & How
Meals are served in a restoran (restaurant) or a kohvik (cafe), pubi (pub), kõrts (inn) or trahter (tavern). Nearly every town has a turg (market), where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as meats and fish.
Estonian eating habits are similar to other parts of northern Europe. Either lunch or dinner may be the biggest meal of the day. Cooked breakfasts aren’t always easy to find but many cafes serve pastries and cakes throughout the day. Tipping at top restaurants is fairly commonplace but not essential, with 10% sufficient. For reviews of the country’s culinary best, see www.flavoursofestonia.com.
If invited for a meal at an Estonian home you can expect abundant hospitality and generous portions. It’s fairly common to bring flowers for the host. Just be sure to give an odd number (even-numbered flowers are reserved for the dead).
SURVIVAL GUIDE
8Directory A–Z
ACCOMMODATION
If you like flying by the seat of your pants when you’re travelling, you’ll find July and August in Estonia very problematic. The best accommodation books up quickly in Tallinn, which is especially busy on most weekends. Book a month ahead anytime from May to September.
High season in Estonia means summer. Prices drop substantially at other times. The exception is Otepää, when there’s also a corresponding peak in winter.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room in high (but not necessarily peak) season.
€ less than €35
€€ €35–100
€€€ more than €100
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
When leaving Estonia, there are no limits on how much alcohol you can carry with you, though you’ll have to convince border inspection agents that any large quantities are for personal consumption. When it comes to tobacco, there are heavier restrictions if you’re headed to Sweden, Finland or the UK.
If arriving from outside the EU, there are the usual restrictions on what can be brought into the country; see the Tax & Customs Board website (www.emta.ee) for full details, including alcohol and tobacco limits.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
For up-to-date contact details of Estonian diplomatic organisations as well as foreign embassies and consulates in Estonia, check the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.vm.ee). The following are in Tallinn.
Australian Consulate (%650 9308; https://vm.ee; Marja 9, Mustjõe; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Honorary consulate; embassy in Stockholm.
Canadian Embassy Office (%627 3311; www.canada.ee; Toom-Kooli 13; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 3pm Fri) An office of Canada’s Baltic embassy, which is in Rīga.
Finnish Embassy (%610 3200; www.finland.ee; Kohtu 4; h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
French Embassy (%616 1600; www.ambafrance-ee.org; Toom-Kuninga 20; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
German Embassy (%627 5300; www.tallinn.diplo.de; Toom-Kuninga 11; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 2pm Fri)
Irish Embassy (%681 1870; www.embassyofireland.ee; Rahukohtu 4-II; h10am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu)
Latvian Embassy (%627 7850; www.mfa.gov.lv; Tõnismägi 10; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Lithuanian Embassy (%616 4991; http://ee.mfa.lt; Uus 15; h8.30am-noon Mon-Fri plus 1-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
Netherlands Embassy (%680 5500; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl/landen/estland; Rahukohtu 4-I; hvisit by appointment)
Russian Embassy (%646 4170; https://estonia.mid.ru; Pikk 19; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Russian Consulate, Tartu (%740 3024; https://estonia.mid.ru; Ülikooli 1; h9am-4pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri)
Swedish Embassy (%640 5600; www.sweden.ee; Pikk 28; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)
UK Embassy (%667 4700; www.ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk; Wismari 6; h10am-3pm Mon-Thu)
US Embassy ( %668 8100; https://ee.usembassy.gov; Kentmanni 20; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
INTERNET ACCESS
Wireless internet access (wi-fi) is ubiquitous in ‘E-stonia’ (you may find yourself wondering why your own country lags so far behind this tech-savvy place). You’ll find literally hundreds of hotspots throughout the country. We’re talking on city streets, in hotels, hostels, restaurants, cafes, pubs, shopping centres, ports, petrol stations, even on long-distance buses and in the middle of national parks! Keep your eyes peeled for orange-and-black stickers indicating availability. In most places, connection is free.
If you’re not packing a laptop or smartphone, options for getting online are not as numerous as they once were. Some accommodation providers offer a computer for guest use and there are still a few internet cafes in large centres. Public libraries have web-connected computers that can usually be accessed free of charge (you may need photo ID).
LANGUAGE
| Hello | Tere | te-rre |
| Goodbye | Head aega | head ae-gah |
| Yes | Jah | yah |
| No | Ei | ay |
| Thank you | Tänan | ta-nahn |
| You’re welcome | Palun | pah-lun |
| Excuse me/I’m sorry | Vabandage | vah-bahn-dah-ge |
| Cheers! (literally ‘to your health’) | Terviseks! | ter-vi-seks |
LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS
Hand-in-hand with its relaxed attitude to religion, today’s Estonia is a fairly tolerant and safe home to its gay and lesbian citizens – certainly much more so than its neighbours. Unfortunately, that ambivalence hasn’t translated into a wildly exciting scene (only Tallinn has gay venues).
Homosexuality was decriminalised in 1992 and since 2001 there has been an equal age of consent for everyone. In 2014 Estonia became the first former Soviet republic to pass a law recognising same-sex registered partnerships, coming into effect in 2016.
MAPS
If you’re just going to major cities and national parks, you’ll find the maps freely available in tourist offices and park centres more than adequate. If, however, you’re planning on driving around and exploring more out-of-the-way places, a good road atlas is worthwhile and easy to find. Regio (www.regio.ee) produces a good, easy-to-use road atlas, with enlargements for all major towns and cities. EO Map (www.eomap.ee) has fold-out sheet maps for every Estonian county and city, as well as a road atlas.
MONEY
On 1 January 2011 Estonia joined the eurozone, bidding a very fond farewell to its short-lived kroon. ATMs are plentiful and credit cards are widely accepted.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
New Year’s Day (Uusaasta) 1 January
Independence Day (Iseseisvuspäev; Anniversary of 1918 declaration) 24 February
Good Friday (Suur reede) March/April
Easter Sunday (Lihavõtted) March/April
Labour Day (Kevadpüha) 1 May
Pentecost (Nelipühade) Seventh Sunday after Easter (May/June)
Victory Day (Võidupüha; commemorating the anniversary of the Battle of Võnnu, 1919) 23 June
St John’s Day (Jaanipäev, Midsummer’s Day) 24 June
Day of Restoration of Independence (Taasiseseisvumispäev; marking the country’s return to Independence in 1991) 20 August
Christmas Eve (Jõululaupäev) 24 December
Christmas Day (Jõulupüha) 25 December
Boxing Day (Teine jõulupüha) 26 December
Taken together, with a few extra days added for good measure, Victory Day and St John’s Day are an excuse for a week-long midsummer break for many Estonians.
WWOOF-ING
If you don’t mind getting your hands dirty, an economical and enlightening way of travelling around Estonia involves doing some voluntary work as a member of Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.ee) – also known as ‘Willing Workers on Organic Farms’. Membership of this popular, well-established international organisation (which has representatives around the globe) provides you with access to the WWOOF Estonia website, which lists organic farms and other environmentally sound cottage industries throughout the country. In exchange for daily work, the owner will provide food, accommodation and some hands-on experience in organic farming.
TELEPHONE
There are no area codes in Estonia; if you’re calling anywhere within the country, just dial the number as it’s listed. All landline phone numbers have seven digits; mobile (cell) numbers have seven or eight digits and begin with 5. Estonia’s country code is 372. To make an international call, dial 00 before the country code.
TOURIST INFORMATION
In addition to the info-laden, elegantly structured, multilingual website of the Estonian Tourist Board (www.visitestonia.com), there are tourist offices in most cities, and many towns and national parks throughout the country. At nearly every one you’ll find English-speaking staff and lots of free material.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
More than 20 airlines have scheduled services to Tallinn year-round, with additional routes and airlines added in summer. The main Baltic services:
airBaltic (www.airbaltic.com) Multiple daily flights between Tallinn and Rīga.
Finnair (www.finnair.ee) Up to six flights a day between Helsinki and Tallinn, and daily flights between Helsinki and Tartu.
BUS
The following bus companies all have services between Estonia and the other Baltic States:
Ecolines (www.ecolines.net) Major routes: Tallinn–Pärnu–Rīga (seven daily), five of which continue on to Vilnius; Tallinn–St Petersburg (six daily); Tartu–Valga–Rīga (two daily); Vilnius–Rīga–Tartu–Narva–St Petersburg (four daily).
Lux Express & Simple Express (www.luxexpress.eu) Major routes: Tallinn–Rīga (up to 13 daily); Tallinn–St Petersburg (up to 10 daily); Rīga–Valmiera–Tartu–Sillamäe–Narva–St Petersburg (four daily).
Eurolines (www.eurolines.lt) Two daily Tallinn–Pärnu–Rīga–Panevėžys–Vilnius–Kaunas–Warsaw buses.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The three Baltic countries are all part of the Schengen agreement, so there are no border checks when driving between Estonia and Latvia. There’s usually no problem taking hire cars across the border, but you’ll need to let the rental company know at the time of hire if you intend to do so; some companies will charge an additional fee.
TRAIN
Valga is the terminus for both the Estonian and Latvian rail systems, but the train services don’t connect up. From Valga, Estonian trains operated by Elron (www.elron.ee) head to Elva, Tartu and Tallinn, while Latvian trains operated by Pasažieru vilciens (www.pv.lv) head to Valmiera, Cēsis, Sigulda and Rīga. There are also direct trains to Tallinn from St Petersburg and Moscow.
8Getting Around
BICYCLE
ATouring cyclists will find Estonia mercifully flat.
ACycling around peaceful rural areas is a popular summer pastime in Estonia, and bike hire is offered in all cities, most towns, and many places of accommodation.
BUS
AThe national bus network is extensive, linking all the major cities to each other and the smaller towns to their regional hubs. It can be faster and cheaper than taking trains.
AAll services are summarised on the extremely handy T pilet (www.tpilet.ee) site.
ADon’t presume that drivers will speak English.
AConcessions are available for children and seniors.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
AEstonian roads are generally very good and driving is easy.
AIn rural areas, particularly on the islands, some roads are unsealed and without lines indicating lanes, but they’re usually kept in good condition.
AWinter poses particular problems for those not used to driving in ice and snow.
ACar hire is offered in all the major cities.
TRAIN
Train services have been steadily improving in recent years. Domestic routes are run by Elron (www.elron.ee) but it’s also possible to travel between Tallinn and Narva on the Russian-bound services run by GoRail (www.gorail.ee).
The major domestic routes:
Tallinn–Rakvere Five daily, with four continuing to Narva
Tallinn–Tartu Eleven daily
Tallinn–Viljandi Five daily
Tartu–Sangaste–Valga Four daily