2Activities

Rīga has a few standout places to get pampered in the traditional Latvian style known as pirts. A highlight of the experience is being whipped by dried birch branches while sweating it out in temperatures beyond 40°C (over 100°F).

oBaltā PirtsSPA

(%6727 1733; www.baltapirts.lv; Tallinas iela 71; sauna from €10; h8am-8pm Wed-Sun)

Popular with locals, Baltā Pirts combines traditional Latvian relaxation techniques (the name means ‘white birch’) with a subtle design scheme. They’ve been in the pirts game since 1908 and now also offer yoga and other therapies.

Taka SpaSPA

(map Google map; %6732 3150; www.takaspa.lv; Kronvalda bulvāris 3a; 45min massage €60; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun)

Taka Spa offers luxurious massages, wraps, scrubs and sauna treatments. Try the signature ‘opening ritual’ in which clients move between saunas and plunge pools while drinking herbal teas.

TTours

Many operators offer tours around Rīga as well as day trips to popular sights nearby.

oRīga Bike Tours & RentCYCLING

(map Google map; %2246 9888; www.rigabiketours.com; Riharda Vagnera iela 14; tours €20, bike rental per 3hr €7; h10am-6pm May-Sep)

Daily three-hour bicycle tours of Rīga on two different routes. Longer cycling tours of Latvia are also on offer. Its helpful office has signage for the Rīga Explorers Club on the window. Bikes include helmets.

Riga Culture Free TourCULTURAL TOUR

(map Google map; %2883 4052; www.rigaculturefreetour.lv; Rainis Statue, Esplanāde; hnoon; c) F

A daily two-hour English-language walk conducted by local cultural experts. It departs from the Rainis statue on Esplanāde.

Eat RīgaFOOD & DRINK

(map Google map; %2246 9888; www.eatriga.lv; Riharda Vāgnera iela 14; tours from €20)

Offers tasting tours and themed itineraries covering topics like Black Balzām. Also offers cooking classes.

Retro TramRAIL

(map Google map; %6710 4817; www.rigassatiksme.lv/en/services/retro-tram; Ausekļa iela; €2; hSat & Sun May-Sep)

Ride aboard a restored tram that begins at the tram stop on Ausekļa iela, then meanders through the art nouveau district and on to Mežaparks.

Rīga By CanalBOATING

(map Google map; %2591 1523; www.rigabycanal.lv; near Bastion Hill; adult/child €18/9; h10am-7pm May–mid-Oct)

Enjoy a different perspective of the city aboard the 1907 vintage Darling, a charming wooden canal cruiser. There are three other boats in the fleet that paddle along the city canal circling Old Town and the Daugava River. The dock is just east of Bastion Hill.

Kugitis JelgavaCRUISE

(map Google map; %2553 8809; www.kugitisjelgava.lv; 11 Novembra Krastmala; adult/child €10/5; h11am-11pm)

Choose from a fleet of three boats for a panoramic cruise on the Daugava River. Thrill to the towering cranes in the port and ponder the retro style of the fishing houses on Ķīpsala.

Rīga City TourBUS

(map Google map; %2665 5405; www.citytour.lv; Rātslaukums; tour €20; h9.30am-4pm)

A hop-on, hop-off double-decker bus that wends its way through Rīga, stopping at 15 spots on both sides of the Daugava River. Circuits last 60 to 90 minutes and the route begins at Rātslaukums, but you can hop on anywhere.

zFestivals & Events

Rīgans will find any excuse to celebrate, especially during the summer months when the city’s parks host festivals almost every weekend. Check out www.liveriga.com for a complete list of local events.

Rīga Opera FestivalMUSIC

(Rīgas Operas festivāls; www.opera.lv; Aspazijas bulvāris 3, Latvian National Opera; hmid-Jun)

The Latvian National Opera’s showcase event takes place over two weeks and includes performances by world-renowned talents.

oMidsummer CelebrationCULTURAL

(11 Novembra Krastmala; h23 Jun) F

Latvians return to their pagan roots while celebrating the solstice on 23 June. Crowds gather until the wee hours along the embankment of the Daugava River for bands, folk singers, DJs and much more.

Rīga Jūrmala Music FestivalMUSIC

(https://riga-jurmala.com; hmid-Jul–Aug)

Over four summer weekends, major names in classical music perform at a variety of venues across Rīga and Jūrmala. The festival’s first year was 2019, but it got off to a huge start and is likely to be an important stop on the European culture circuit.

oRīga City FestivalCULTURAL

(www.rigassvetki.lv; hmid-Aug) F

Rīga all but shuts down for this huge free festival held on the third weekend in August. The parks and waterfront are taken over by scores of activities: from big-name bands to fireworks to traditional bread baking to carnival acts for kids, there is nonstop action. You can’t help but be moved watching older Rīgans weep while they sing along with folk songs from their youth.

Festival of LightLIGHT SHOW

(www.staroriga.lv; hmid-Nov)

Held around National Day celebrations in November, this festival of lights lifts spirits as Rīga begins to face the long winter ahead. Myriad civic buildings and public objects are lit up during the long nights.

oChristmas Tree PathCHRISTMAS

(www.eglufestivals.lv; hDec) F

Rīga claims to be the city that originated the Christmas tree, thus at Christmas each year, locals decorate an ornate tree in Rātslaukums amid much ado. Festive, artful and magical trees in myriad styles are set up across Rīga: pick up a map from the tourist information centre.

4Sleeping

Both Old Rīga and Central Rīga lend themselves well to pedestrians. For short visits, Old Rīga is the most popular choice, but consider Central Rīga as you can dip in and out of Old Town and are still close to some of the most interesting places to eat and drink.

The choice of rental apartments is almost unlimited, which is good because visitors to Rīga greatly favour rental accommodation. It’s easy to find fine places in Old Town and Central Rīga for under €50 a night. There’s no reason to stay further out.

4Old Rīga (Vecrīga)

Naughty SquirrelHOSTEL€

(map Google map; %6722 0073; www.facebook.com/NSBhostel; Kalēju iela 50; dm/r from €12/35; aW)

A shot of booze at check-in sets the tone at Rīga’s capital of backpackerdom, which buzzes with travellers. Plush pillows and blankets in private rooms and homey wooden bunks in dorms make the place feel anything but institutional.

Hotel JustusHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6721 2404; www.hoteljustus.lv; Jaun iela 24; r from €70; aW)

A tidy, small hotel in the very heart of Old Town. An elevator whisks you up to the 4th-floor rooms with angled ceilings that follow the roofline. Furniture is ornate without being frou-frou.

Rixwell Hotel Konventa SetaHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6000 8700; www.konventa.lv; Kalēju iela 9/11; r from €65; paW)

The location, inside a 15th-century convent in the heart of medieval Rīga, is unbeatable. Rooms are as small and prim as a nun’s cell (in fact the last nuns only left in 1938) and the hotel sprawls over several alleys.

oNeiburgsHOTEL€€€

(map Google map; %6711 5522; www.neiburgs.com; Jaun iela 25/27; r €105-200; aW)

Occupying one of Old Rīga’s finest art nouveau buildings, Neiburgs blends preserved details with contemporary touches to achieve its signature boutique-chic style. Try for a room on one of the higher floors – you’ll be treated to a view of a colourful clutter of gabled roofs and twisting medieval spires.

Dome HotelHOTEL€€€

(map Google map; %6750 9010; www.domehotel.lv; Miesnieku iela 4; r from €175; aW)

It’s hard to imagine that this 17th-century structure was once part of a row of butcheries. Today a gorgeous wooden staircase leads guests up to a charming assortment of uniquely decorated rooms.

Grand Palace HotelHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

(map Google map; %6704 4000; www.grandpalaceriga.com; Pils iela 12; r from €125; aW)

You’ll find no better place to be pampered than the lavish Grand Palace. Rooms have a luxurious, contemporary verve. Look for limos out front as it’s the address for visiting dignitaries. There’s a health club and sauna.

LONG-TERM RENTALS

Planning on sticking around town for a while? Check out Rent in Riga (www.rentinriga.lv) for a detailed listing of available (and red tape–free) apartments in town; select Centrs or Vecrīga to find a flat in the core of the city. You can get a very nice flat for €500 per month.

4Central Rīga (Centrs)

Cinnamon SallyHOSTEL€

(map Google map; %2204 2280; www.cinnamonsally.com; Merķeļa iela 1; dm/r from €12/30; W)

Convenient for the train and bus stations, Cinnamon Sally comes with helpful staff and a common area cluttered with sociable characters. The relentless effort to create a homey atmosphere includes a no-shoes-inside policy. Rooms are simply decorated with blond-wood furniture and have two to six beds.

Riga City CampingCAMPGROUND€

(%6706 7519; www.rigacamping.lv; Ķīpsalas iela 8; sites per adult/child/tent €5/2/6; hmid-May–mid-Oct; pW#)

Located on Ķīpsala across the river from Old Rīga, this large campground is close to the city centre and offers plenty of open, mostly shade-free space behind Rīga’s exhibition halls. Facilities are basic and include a laundry. Discounts are available for those staying more than four nights.

oJakob LenzINN€€

(map Google map; %6733 3343; www.guesthouselenz.lv; Lenču iela 2; s/d from €35/40, without bathroom from s/d €25/30; pW)

Tucked away along a random side street on the fringes of the art nouveau district, this great find offers 25 adorable rooms and a generous breakfast in the morning.

Europa Royale RīgaHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6707 9444; www.europaroyale.com; K Barona iela 12; r from €60; paW)

This ornate 1876 manse retains much of its 19th-century opulence with sweeping staircases, high ceilings, and a grand bar and breakfast room. Of the 60 rooms, the bay-window rooms are best.

Hanza HotelHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6779 6040; www.hanzahotel.lv; Elijas iela 7; r from €45; pW)

East of Rīga Central Market in a quiet neighbourhood, this tidy hotel has 80 comfortably large rooms with plenty of light, from both the large windows and the adjustable reading lights. It overlooks the cobblestone square with Jēzus Baznīca.

Hotel ValdemārsHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6733 4462; www.valdemars.lv; K Valdemāra iela 23; r from €85; aW)

Part of an art nouveau block, this 83-room hotel is an excellent choice for those who want to be in the heart of all the Central Rīga action. Rooms are corporate-comfortable.

Teater City HotelHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6731 5140; www.cityhotel.lv; Bruņinieku iela 6; r from €50; Ws)

An imposing art nouveau gem, the Teater has seven storeys of comfortable rooms. Those on the top floor have fine city views. There’s a small sauna and pool.

Tallink Hotel RigaHOTEL€€

(map Google map; %6709 9760; www.tallinkhotels.com; Elizabetes iela 24; r from €75; aW)

This 256-room hotel could not be more centrally located. The rooms are modern and the included breakfast buffet is immense. The hotel is owned by the Stockholm ferry company; there are good packages available.

oHotel BergsHOTEL€€€

(map Google map; %6777 0900; www.hotelbergs.lv; Elizabetes iela 83/85, Bergs Bazārs; ste from €203; paW)

A refurbished 19th-century building embellished with a Scandi-sleek extension, the 37 spacious rooms at the Hotel Bergs embody the term ‘luxury’. It’s at the heart of Bergs Bazārs, which features a few hip venues.

5Eating

Rīga’s dining scene is a good reason to visit. You’ll find a range of interesting and creative eateries, generally serving excellent meals at much lower prices than other European capitals to the west. Some of the best restaurants, cafes and bakeries take the bounty from Latvia’s countryside and transform it in ways that bring a contemporary flair to Latvian traditions.

5Old Rīga (Vecrīga)

Restaurants in Old Town are aimed at tourists, so expect Latvian standards that are heavy on the traditional, as well as crowd-pleasing continental favourites. Given the lively crowds, don’t be surprised if the drinks lists are longer than the food menus. Prices are closer to Western European norms than elsewhere in Rīga.

V ĶuzeCAFE€

(map Google map; %6732 2943; www.kuze.lv; Jēkaba iela 20/22; snacks €4; h10am-9pm; W)

Step back to 1910 in this dahling little cafe, where the art nouveau–styled cabinet positively groans under the weight of cakes and chocolate truffles. It’s named after chocolatier Vilhelms Ķuze, who died after being deported to Siberia after WWII. Tables out front overlook a park.

Chez OlivierCAFE€

(map Google map; %2696 9566; www.facebook.com/chezoliviercafe/; Kalēju iela 23; snacks from €3; h8am-8pm)

On the ground floor of a boldly coloured 1903 art nouveau building, this corner cafe serves fine coffee and pastries with French flair through the day. There are also smoothies and tea. Just look for the tree-shaped portico over the door with the sun on the facade above.

Lido Beer GardenLATVIAN€

(Lido Alus Seta; map Google map; %6722 2431; www.lido.lv; Tirgoņu iela 6; mains €4-6; h11am-10pm; W)

The pick of the Lido litter (Rīga’s ubiquitous smorgasbord chain), this woodsy charmer feels like an old Latvian brewhouse. In summer, the front opens up and tables spill onto the cobbled street forming the namesake ‘beer garden’. Enjoy tasty traditional fare and house-brewed beer.

KD KonditorejaCAFE€

(map Google map; %2695 9096; Smilšu iela 20; mains €4-7; h8am-9pm)

The bentwood chairs are just one traditional detail at this old-time cafe. The coffee is excellent and the baked goods fresh; get anything with rhubarb when in season. Lunch offers old favourites such as kartupeļu pankūkas ar kūpinātu lasi (potato pancakes with smoked salmon).

Martina’s BakeryBAKERY€

(map Google map; %6721 3314; www.bekereja.lv; Vaļņu iela 28; snacks €1-5; h8am-8pm)

It could still be 1930 in the Old Rīga branch of this popular local bakers. Ponder the huge loaves of traditional bread, then wander over to the display cases with popularly priced treats. Nab a seat inside or out, and enjoy a warm beverage and something sweet.

Late Night MunchiesBURGERS€

(map Google map; %2233 3839; https://munchies.lv; Peldu iela 21; mains €4-6; h11am-11pm Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat)

Not only does this tidy little hole in the wall have one of the best URLs ever, it lives up to its name. Staff – far more sober than most of the customers – take pride in making huge, juicy, condiment-dripping burgers.

Pelmeņi XLRUSSIAN€

(map Google map; %6722 2728; www.xlpelmeni.lv; Kaļķu iela 7; mains €2-4; h9am-11pm Mon-Thu, 10am-4am Fri-Sun)

A Rīga institution for budget travellers and after-hours partiers, this extra-large self-serve eatery stays open extra-late, offering tasty pelmeņi (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat) amid Flintstones-meets-Gaudí decor. Portions are priced by weight.

MildaLATVIAN€€

(map Google map; %2571 3287; www.restoransmilda.lv; Kungu iela 8; mains €8-25; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun)

Centred on Latvia, but with guest stars from Lithuania and Belarus, this traditional restaurant serves slightly glammed-up versions of the sort of local fare you’d enjoy on Sundays at granny’s. Potato dumplings filled with meat, eel with mashed potatoes, pork stew cooked for 24 hours – these are just some of the warming dishes on offer. Nice sidewalk terrace, good dark beer.

oValteraLATVIAN€€€

(map Google map; %2952 9200; www.valterarestorans.lv; Miesnieku iela 8; mains €15-22; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

The country comes to the city: that’s the motto at this modern restaurant that works with a bevy of small-scale producers in Latvia’s lush hinterlands. Meats, cheeses, vegetables, fruits, breads – they all have peerless provenance. The menu changes constantly, reflecting what’s fresh. Service is smooth, the wine list good. Flowers line the outside deck.

3 PavaruMODERN EUROPEAN€€€

(map Google map; %2037 0537; www.3pavari.lv; Torņa iela 4, Jacob’s Barracks; mains €18-27; hnoon-11pm)

The stellar trio of chefs who run this show have a jazzy approach to cooking, with improvisation at the heart of the compact, ever-changing menu. The emphasis is on experimentation, seasonal freshness and artful visual presentation that would have made Mark Rothko or Joan Miró proud. There are appealing terrace tables.

Dome Fish RestaurantSEAFOOD€€€

(map Google map; %6750 9010; www.zivjurestorans.lv; Miesnieku iela 4; mains €18-27; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun; W)

The Dome Hotel’s restaurant quickly reminds diners that Rīga sits near bodies of water that are full of delicious fish. Service is impeccable and dishes (including some meat and vegetarian options) are expertly prepared. An ever-changing five-course menu (€55) demonstrates the kitchen’s talents. Book ahead to dine under the stars on the rooftop deck.

GutenbergsLATVIAN€€€

(map Google map; %6721 1776; http://restaurant-gutenbergs.lv; Doma laukums 1; mains €13-25; h1-11pm)

Go one better than dining with a view – dine in the view! The Hotel Gutenbergs’ rooftop terrace in the heart of Old Rīga perches between soaring spires and gingerbread trim. The menu focuses on local favourites, fresh seafood and steaks. When the temps tumble, the retractable roof closes. There’s a long wine list and the bar shares the great views.

Domini CanesEUROPEAN€€€

(map Google map; %2231 4122; www.dominicanes.lv; Skārņu iela 18/20; mains €9-20; h10am-11pm)

Tables sprawl across the square at this upmarket but relaxed restaurant facing the rear of St Peter’s Church. The bistro-style menu includes fresh seafood, grilled meats and plenty of fresh Latvian produce.

Tēvocis VaņaRUSSIAN€€€

(Uncle Vanya; map Google map; %2788 6963; www.unclevanya.lv; Smilšu iela 16; mains €15-27; h11am-11pm)

Russia puts on its friendly Chekhovian hat in this quaint restaurant that dishes up a fairy-tale-ish assortment of bliny pancakes, pelmeņi dumplings and kholodets (jellied meat) that, together with a plate of pickles, is an inseparable aspect of any competent samogon (village vodka) drinking experience. The streetside terrace is Siberia-sized.

EAT & DRINK LIKE A LATVIAN

Some highlights of Latvian cuisine:

Berries If you were to count the total area of blackberry bushes and cranberry marshes, it would likely cover a large chunk of Latvia. Berries are sold at markets all over the country, or look for little set-ups by intrepid pickers featuring the fruits of their labour.

Mushrooms A national obsession; mushroom-picking takes the country by storm during the first showers of autumn.

Smoked fish Dozens of fish shacks dot the Kurzeme coast – look for the veritable smoke signals rising above the tree line. Grab ’em to go; they make the perfect picnic. Or hit the Rīga Central Market.

Rye bread Apart from being tasty and heartier than their wheat peers, these large brown (even black) loafs have aesthetic value too, matching the dark wood of Latvia’s Nordic interiors nicely. There are myriad variations, some utterly covered in whole grains.

Alus For such a tiny nation there’s definitely no shortage of alus (beer) – each major town has its own brew. Among the top choices: Rīga’s Labietis and Valmiera’s Valmiermuiža.

Kvass A beloved beverage made from fermented rye bread. It’s surprisingly popular with kids.

Black Balzām This jet-black, 45%-proof concoction is a secret recipe of more than a dozen unusual herbs and spices. A shot a day keeps the doctor away, so say most of Latvia’s pensioners. Try mixing it with a glass of cola to take the edge off.

5Central Rīga (Centrs)

Rīga’s most creative chefs can be found in Central Rīga. Enjoy a mouthwatering mix of cutting-edge kitchens, traditional favourites and welcoming cafes. Even if you’re staying in Old Rīga, you’ll want to venture beyond the canals to try some of the best meals that Latvia has to offer. Note that prices here are on average much less than Old Rīga.

oMiitCAFE€

(map Google map; %2889 1351; www.miit.lv; Lāčplēša iela 10; mains €4-7; h7am-9pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; v)

Rīga’s hipster students head here to sip espresso and blog about Nietzsche amid comfy couches and blond-wood minimalism. Weekday breakfast (8am to 11.30am) and weekend pancake brunch (11am to 4pm) are pure morning joy. The lunch menu changes daily and everything is vegetarian.

Food BoxKEBAB€

(map Google map; %2820 5998; www.foodbox.lv; Antonijas iela 6; mains €4-6; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat; W)

Mismatched tables perch unsteadily on a sidewalk cracked by a lovely old shade tree at this very popular kebab shop. From the pitas to the piquant grilled meat, everything is made in-house. Staff are cheery and the tea is free. Note, it’s really on Pumpura iela, despite the official address.

StockpotLATVIAN€

(map Google map; %2783 2165; www.stockpot.lv; Ģertrūdes iela 6; mains €4-8; h11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; v)

Step down a few steps – just metres from St Gertrude Church – to some of the freshest fare in Rīga. Local and seasonal produce dictates what’s on offer, so check the website for the menu as it changes daily. Expect soups, salads, sandwiches and hot mains with international flair, all served in the sparkling white dining room.

Lido OrigoLATVIAN€

(map Google map; %2782 3316; www.lido.lv; Origo shopping centre 2; mains €4-7; h10am-9pm; W)

Rīgans of all stripes stop by this bustling cafeteria, just a few metres from the ticket windows in the mall at the Central Train Station. Lido’s unbeatable combination of high-quality Latvian favourites and low prices is on full display. Grab a tray and head down the cafeteria line.

Tables outside overlook the big station square, where at times there’s live entertainment, meaning Lido diners can enjoy bargain-priced dinner-theatre.

Taverna PumpkinLATVIAN€

(Ķirbis Taverna; map Google map; %2733 8814; Centrāltirgus iela 3, Hall 2, Rīga Central Market; mains €3-9; h10am-5pm)

This is the place to finally have grey peas: the national dish of savoury stewed beans is scrumptious at this simple and tidy bar/cafe catering to shoppers and market workers. The menu highlights other Latvian standards. Get a friend and enjoy the cheese and smoked meat board.

Centrālais Gastro TirgusFOOD HALL€

(Central Gastro Market; map Google map; %2807 8666; https://centralais.lv; Centrāltirgus iela 3, Rīga Central Market; mains €3-10; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

Rīga Central Market now has a food court, and it’s somewhat upscale. Over 20 stalls cook up fare from around the world, including sushi, pho, pasta, burgers, baked goods and a lot more. Two bars serve inventive cocktails, all in an effort to prove this market is not your parents’ market.

StockmannSUPERMARKET€

(map Google map; %6707 1222; www.stockmann.lv; 13 Janvāra iela 8; h9am-10pm)

This slightly upscale supermarket has an excellent deli section: the perfect complement for your foraging foray at the Rīga Central Market, whether it’s for a picnic or a feast in your holiday apartment.

Siļķītes un DillītesSEAFOOD€€

(map Google map; %2639 1122; www.facebook.com/SilkitesUnDillites; Centrāltirgus iela 3, Rīga Central Market; mains €6-15; h10am-5pm)

If exploring the fish stalls at the Rīga Central Market puts you in the mood for some excellent fresh seafood, you’re in luck. Right next to the fish hall, this scallop-sized little cafe serves up superb seafood dishes. Start with a plate of smoked fish, have some hearty fish soup and then tuck into perfectly grilled salmon.

It’s located in the passage between the fish and vegetable departments of the market.

Cafe OsīrissCAFE€€

(map Google map; www.cafeosiris.lv; K Barona iela 31; mains €8-23; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; W)

Despite Rīga’s mercurial cafe culture, Osīriss is a legendary stalwart. The green faux-marble tabletops haven’t changed since the mid-1990s and neither has the clientele: angsty artsy types scribbling in their Moleskines and past prime ministers plotting their return to power. The traditional fare, such as kartupeļu pankūkas (potato pancakes), is some of Rīga’s best. Enjoy the champagne bar.

AragatsGEORGIAN€€

(map Google map; %2910 9732; http://aragats.lv; Alunāna iela 2a; mains €5-20; hnoon-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat year-round, plus noon-7pm Sun Sep-May)

Sample some great cuisine from the Caucasus, which proves that life gets spicier when you go south. Start with an appetiser of pickled vegetables – the perfect chaser for your home-brewed chacha (Georgian vodka). Then, make nice with the family as they dish up fresh herbs at your table to mix with the savoury stew and grilled meats.

Moltto Grill & WineBISTRO€€

(map Google map; %6730 5900; http://moltto.lv; Ģertrūdes iela 20; mains €8-18; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat)

Savour the cultured Ģertrūdes iela street life on the large shaded terrace at this hip, Italian-style cafe. Have some bruschetta with a glass of wine from the long list, or delve into some spicy bouillabaisse or other Med-influenced main.

Zivju LeteSEAFOOD€€

(map Google map; %2029 1653; https://zivjulete.lv; Dzirnavu iela 41; mains €8-16; hnoon-11pm)

From fish and chips to towering seafood platters, every day the line-up changes depending on what sails in on the fishing fleet. This contemporary cafe has clean-lined bare brick walls, gleaming wooden floors and date-friendly tables for two.

Fazenda BazārsMODERN EUROPEAN€€

(map Google map; %6724 0809; www.fazenda.lv; Baznīcas iela 14; mains €11-18; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, from 11am Sun)

Although right in the centre, this place feels like you’ve discovered a warm tavern in the middle of nowhere. Complete with a tiled stove, this wooden house oozes charm and the food on offer feels as homey as it gets, even with the global influences. All that’s lacking on the big outdoor terrace is the sound of crickets.

oIstabaCAFE€€€

(The Room; map Google map; %6728 1141; www.facebook.com/galerijaISTABA; K Barona iela 31b; mains €17; hrestaurant noon-11pm)

Like every other country north of Antarctica, Latvia has TV chefs. Here, the beloved Mārtiņš Sirmais runs an idiosyncratic restaurant that’s part housewares salon, part performance space and part fine-dining retreat. There’s no set menu – you’re subject to the cook’s fancy – but expect lots of little plates that add up to a feast.

VincentsEUROPEAN€€€

(map Google map; %6733 2830; www.restorans.lv; Elizabetes iela 19; mains €30-40; h6-10pm Tue-Sat)

This toney restaurant has served royalty and rock stars (Japanese emperor Akihito, Prince Charles, Elton John) amid its eye-catching van Gogh–inspired decor. The head chef, Oskars Sprukts, is a stalwart of the Slow Food movement and crafts his ever-changing menu mainly from produce sourced directly from small-scale Latvian farmers. Great wine list; book ahead.

KoyaBISTRO€€€

(%2775 7255; http://koyarestaurant.com; Andrejostas iela 5k-15; mains €12-28; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)

Part of a sleek row of waterside bistros overlooking the Passenger Ferry Terminal and the Daugava River in the Andrejosta neighbourhood, Koya has a large and protected terrace with fine views. Dishes mix Asian and European flavours and are beautifully presented.

Hercogs Ģimenes RestorānsSEAFOOD€€€

(%6787 3804; www.hercogi.lv; Balasta dambis 70, Ķīpsala; mains €13-25; hnoon-10pm; c)

This renovated brick former chalk factory has a stellar position right on the Daugava River on Ķīpsala. Whether you’re in the dining room with the front that opens up in summer or down on the floating dining area, the views of Old Rīga are stunning. The seafood is fresh and artfully presented. Book ahead for weekend brunch.

Miera Iela

The renovated – and not-so-renovated – industrial spaces in the Miera iela neighbourhood on the east side of Central Rīga are home to some of the city’s most enjoyable places to eat and drink.

oRocket Bean RoasteryCAFE€

(map Google map; %2021 5120; www.rocketbeanroastery.com; Miera iela 29/31; mains €4-7; h8am-9pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; W)

‘What kind of Colombian beans would you like?’ Yes, these people are serious about coffee – they roast their own. The bare-brick vibe is attractive, as are the streetside tables. Besides baked goods through the day, there’s a lunch buffet (€8) featuring fresh and healthy fare.

Lauvas NamsCAFETERIA€

(map Google map; %6731 2661; Brīvības iela 82; meals €3-5; h24hr)

Generations of Rīgans have stopped for a bite at this round-the-clock retro cafeteria where a sign proclaiming ‘Brezhnev ate here’ would not be out of place. Simple Latvian fare – think pork stew and potatoes – is displayed at the small counter and comes in large portions.

oValmiermuiža Beer EmbassyBRASSERIE€€

(Valmiermuižas alus vēstniecība; map Google map; %2865 6111; www.valmiermuiza.lv; Aristida Briāna iela 9a; mains €9-13; h3-11pm Sun-Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

One of Lavia’s favourite craft brewers, Valmiermuiža, has a craft kitchen in this renovated industrial space. Creative dishes include excellent popular fare like fresh fish and chips. Sample the range of in-house beers and brews from other top breweries and enjoy the Rīga Central Market pickles. This is ground zero for a superb pub crawl.

6Drinking & Nightlife

To party like a Latvian, assemble your friends and pub crawl your way through the city, stopping at haunts for rounds of beer, belly laughter and, of course, Black Balzām. After dark, many bars and cafes transform into grittier venues with pumping beats. Note that Rīga’s craft beer scene is booming, with fine local brews like Labietis on tap all over.

6Old Rīga (Vecrīga)

On summer evenings, the beer gardens of Old Rīga echo with shouts in all the languages of Europe and beyond.

oFolkklubs Ala PagrabsBAR

(map Google map; %2779 6914; www.folkklubs.lv; Peldu iela 19; hnoon-4am Mon-Wed, to 7am Thu-Sat, 2pm-4am Sun)

A huge cavern filled with the bubbling magma of relentless beer-infused joy, folk-punk music, dancing and Latvian nationalism, this is an essential Rīga drinking venue. The bar strives to reflect the full geography and diversity of Latvian beer production, but there is also plenty of local cider, fruit wine and šmakouka moonshine. The ‘No Instagram!’ rule is reason enough to pop in. Among the snacks and cheap meals, the kartupeļu pankūkas are superb.

EgleBEER GARDEN

(map Google map; %2200 6800; www.spogulegle.lv; Kaļķu iela 1a; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)

Split between a noisier half with live music most nights (everything from folk to rockabilly), and a quieter half (which generally closes earlier), this is the best of Old Rīga’s open-air beer gardens. It’s an open-air mall of imbibing pleasures complete with artworks and flowers.

Trompete TaproomBAR

(map Google map; %2574 5299; www.trompete.lv; Peldu iela 24; mains €10-16; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

The name means trumpet and you’ll hear Louis Armstrong blowing his as you pass by the speakers outside. The bar has a big courtyard and cosy rooms inside for listening to live jazz most nights. The beer list is good, as are the burgers and many plates of appetisers made for sharing.

Cetri Balti KrekliBAR

(map Google map; %2868 8488; www.krekli.lv; Vecpilsētas iela 12; cover €2; h10pm-6am Fri & Sat)

Dance to pop and disco in a big courtyard or inside under the lasers at this big bar that books top-notch DJs. Be ready for sets of the same Latvian music you hear being hummed on buses.

DJ BarBAR

(map Google map; www.djbar.lv; Mazā Jaunavu iela 5; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 4-10pm Sun)

Specialising in electronic underground, this tiny bar hiding in a tiny lane lets young DJs master their talent under the condition that the music is quiet enough to encourage, rather than prevent, a conversation over cocktails and wine.

LāčPLēSIS: THE NATIONAL HERO

It usually doesn’t take more than a few days in Latvia before you pass a Lāčplēša street (there is one in every town) or drink a glass of Lāčplēša beer. So what’s in the name?

Lāčplēsis dates back to ancient sagas and the imagination of 19th-century Latvian writer Andrejs Pumpurs. Today, he’s Latvia’s main national hero, thought to be chosen by ancient gods to save the land from invaders. (Latvia’s greatest military award is called the Order of Lāčplēsis.)

The son of a man and a she-bear, Lāčplēsis inherited his mother’s ears, which serve as a secret source of supernatural faculties. As a young man, he slaughters an aggressive bear by ripping its mouth apart with his bare (human) hands. This is when people start calling him Lāčplēsis. The word means ‘bear slayer’ and contains enough letters with diacritic signs to look quintessentially Latvian. You can find a sculpture of him (and the slaughtered bear) at the bottom of Rīga’s Freedom Monument.

From here the story gets very cinematic. Lāčplēsis takes on the evil Germans, who are trying to impose their will on the Latvians. Next he sails to Germany and rescues his lover. But just as he’s about to marry her, the Germans send their Dark Knight to bust up the ceremony. He and Lāčplēsis fight and both tumble to their doom in the Daugava. Fade to black.

6Central Rīga (Centrs)

Distances in Rīga are short, so you can easily wander about between venues.

oKaņepes Kultūras CentrsBAR

(map Google map; %2940 4405; www.kanepes.lv; Skolas iela 15; h3pm-2am or later)

This crumbling former musical school is now a culture centre with a fabulous bar. Choose from an alluring line-up of craft beers, then grab a mismatched old wooden chair inside or a comfy perch on the big wrap-around terrace. The energy here is palpable and wild dancing regularly erupts. Some nights there’s art-house films, other nights improv theatre.

AlķīmiķisPUB

(map Google map; %2668 6828; www.facebook.com/AlkimikisAlus; Lāčplēša iela 12; hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat)

This unassuming barn-red wooden building is the modest cover for some of Rīga’s most audacious brews. The wizards at Alķīmiķis (which fittingly means Alchemist) are always pushing the envelope with beer styles. Grab one of the tiny tables outside or settle back in the friendly confines inside.

Teātra BārsBAR

(map Google map; %2591 6519; Lāčplēša iela 26; h6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

Opposite a popular theatre, this grungy cavern is a beloved ancient local institution with gobs of atmosphere, right down to the tiny, mismatched wooden tables. It attracts some of the best crowds in Rīga: actors, artists, students, bus drivers, basically anyone. Weekend live music packs the smallish dance area, which gets wild in the wee hours.

AutentikaCLUB

(map Google map; %2834 8453; www.facebook.com/autentika.b2; Bruņinieku iela 2; hnoon-10pm Sun-Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)

Set in a veteran old wooden building, this cultural space is a local hub for all things indie. Free-spirited locals mingle on mismatched furniture inside and out, while enjoying cocktails, weekend brunch, art exhibitions, emerging live bands and more. Check the Facebook page for events.

GarageWINE BAR

(map Google map; %2662 8833; www.vinabars.lv; Elizabetes iela 83/85, Berga Bazārs; h10am-midnight)

Apart from a semi-industrial fit-out (polished concrete floors, metal chairs), there’s nothing even vaguely garagey about this chic little place with candles on the tables and a fountain outside. It’s equal parts wine bar and cafe (the coffee’s excellent), serving tapas and a limited selection of mains.

HerbārijsBEER GARDEN

(map Google map; %2734 3393; Dzirnavu iela 67, Gallerija Riga; h11am-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Soaring high over the grand boulevards of Central Rīga, on the 8th-floor roof of the Gallerija Riga shopping mall, Herbārijs is a big open-air space with a Med-beach vibe. Enjoy the dome of sky overhead day and night.

Skyline BarCOCKTAIL BAR

(map Google map; %6777 2288; www.skylinebar.lv; Elizabetes iela 55; hnoon-2am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, 11.30am-2am Sun; W)

Skyline Bar sits on the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and offers sweeping views of Rīga. The glammed-up interior verges on self-parody: you expect Austin Powers to wander through. The crowd is a mix of expense-account types, tourists and people who can’t pass a mirror without looking. DJs spin tunes from 9pm to 3am Thursday to Saturday.

ApsaraTEAHOUSE

(map Google map; %6721 2436; www.apsara.lv; Elizabetes iela 74, Vērmanes dārzs; hnoon-10pm)

A charming wooden cottage set within the park, Apsara is a veritable library of rare teas imported from beyond the Himalaya. Daintily sip your imported brews while relaxing on the floor amid a sea of pastel pillows or outside on the big porch.

Miera Iela

oLabietisBEER HALL

(map Google map; %2565 5958; www.labietis.lv; Aristida Briāna iela 9a-2; h4-11pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun)

With a minimalist design that makes it feel a bit like a Gothic church, this place is on a mission to promote more obscure Latvian breweries and local craft beer. There are eight taps and several lines are usually devoted to the house brews, which many consider Latvia’s best. Find Labietis down a grungy alley; several other good nightspots are nearby.

Tallinas Kvartāla Ezītis MiglāBEER GARDEN

(map Google map; %2307 0474; www.facebook.com/tallinasezitis; Miera ielas 34; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

The moribund former headquarters of the city’s ambulance service has been transformed into an events space with a huge and hidden inner courtyard. Right in the centre is this outpost of the popular chain of cheery pubs Ezītis Miglā (Hedgehog in the Mist). Rickety wooden tables spread out over the cracked concrete; the bar serves comfort food and craft cocktails.

There are other pop-up pubs here in the Tallinn Quarter and the entire space echoes with parties late into the night. There’s a second entrance at Tallinas St 10.

PiensCLUB

(Milk; map Google map; %6601 6300; http://piens.nu; Aristida Briāna iela 9; h11am-midnight Mon, Tue & Sat, to 5am Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri)

This bar-club in an old factory is surrounded by a few other excellent bars. There’s an appealing mix of eclectic decor, sunny terraces and live music. Acts range from rock to industrial acid.

Ziemeļu EnkursMICROBREWERY

(Northern Anchor; map Google map; %2072 2200; www.ziemeluenkurs.lv; Matīsa iela 8; h4-11pm Mon-Thu, 2pm-1am Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

Above a bike shop in a courtyard off a busy street, this innovative brewery has eight core beers available year-round and an ever-rotating cast of new beers dreamt up by the brewmaster. Who can resist the Touched by a Seal (Roņa Pieskāriens) brown ale? A big balcony surveys neighbourhood action.

TakaBAR

(map Google map; %2667 1629; www.facebook.com/takabars; Miera iela 10; h3pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 3pm-2am Thu, 3pm-3am Fri, noon-2am Sat, 6-11pm Sun; W)

An old-timer in the hipsterish Miera iela area, Taka sports bright murals on the walls and extra-comfy couches. It’s an excellent place to try craft beers from Latvia’s best small brewers. Or try the homemade apple wine, while listening to the underground music.

3Entertainment

Check www.liveriga.com for opera, ballet, guest DJs, live music and other events around town. Also look for free listings guides. The tourist information centre in the Blackheads House can help visitors book tickets at any Rīga venue.

Opera, Ballet & Theatre

Rīga’s ballet, opera and theatre season breaks for summer holidays (between June and September), although there’s always the star-studded Rīga Jūrmala Music Festival.

oNew Rīga TheatreTHEATRE

(Jaunais Rīgas Teātris; map Google map; %6728 3323; www.jrt.lv; Lačplēša iela 25; hbox office 11am-7pm)

Important and contemporary repertory theatre. Attracts big names like Mikhail Baryshnikov, who premiered his play White Helicopter here in 2019. Many performances are in English or available in simultaneous translation through headphones.

Dailes TheatreTHEATRE

(map Google map; %6727 9566; www.dailesteatris.lv; Brīvības iela 75; hbox office 11am-7pm)

Rīga’s largest modern theatre; it retains many of its original architectural elements from the Soviet era. Presents a varied calendar of contemporary plays and groups.

Latvian National OperaOPERA, BALLET

(Latvijas Nacionālajā operā; map Google map; %6707 3777; www.opera.lv; Aspazijas bulvāris 3)

With a hefty international reputation as one of the finest opera companies in all of Europe, the national opera is the pride of Latvia. It’s also home to the Rīga Ballet; locally born lad Mikhail Baryshnikov got his start here. Performances happen most nights of the week.

Concert Venues

oRīga CathedralCLASSICAL MUSIC

(map Google map; %6721 3213; www.doms.lv; Doma laukums 1; tickets free-€20; hhours vary)

Short organ concerts are held in the evening throughout the week, with lengthier performances on Friday nights. Buy tickets in advance in summer.

Great GuildCLASSICAL MUSIC

(map Google map; %6722 4850; www.lnso.lv; Amatu iela 6; hbox office noon-7pm Mon-Fri)

Home to the acclaimed Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Great Guild dates to 1854.

PalladiumLIVE MUSIC

(map Google map; %6728 4516; www.palladium.lv; Marijas iela 21)

The architecturally significant Palladium is a modernised venue that holds 2000 and attracts top acts.

KK fon Stricka VillaARTS CENTRE

(map Google map; %6601 6300; www.fonstrickavilla.lv; Aristida Briāna iela 9)

This old and dishevelled mansion with a weedy yard hosts events through the year. During summer there are evening concerts (often on Wednesday) spanning genres (pop, acid, hip-hop, jazz etc) that spill outside onto the grass under the trees. Many are free. It’s one of Rīga’s great scenes.

Arena RīgaLIVE MUSIC

(%6738 8200; www.arenariga.com; Skantes iela 21)

This is the main venue for the most popular spectator sports: ice hockey and basketball. The 10,000-seat venue also hosts dance revues and concerts.

Mūzikas nams DaileCONCERT VENUE

(map Google map; %2495 9495; http://dailesnams.lv; K Barona iela 31)

This former cinema is a concert venue, specialising in acoustic and classical music.

Cinemas

As ever more films are dubbed into Latvian, theatres indicate if films are in their original language with subtitles or dubbed. Most cinemas have assigned seating.

K SunsCINEMA

(map Google map; %2923 1633; www.kinogalerija.lv; Elizabetes iela 83/85, Bergs Bazārs)

An artsy cinema that shows mostly indie films.

Kino CitadeleCINEMA

(map Google map; %1189; www.forumcinemas.lv; 13 Janvāra iela 8)

Rīga’s multiplex has stadium seating, 14 screens and a cafe on the top floor, high above the Stockmann supermarket. Expect Hollywood fare, with many films dubbed in Latvian. Buy tickets online.

Splendid PalaceCINEMA

(map Google map; %6718 1143; www.splendidpalace.lv; Elizabetes iela 61)

Obscured from view by Soviet Lego architecture, this art deco gem specialises in art house, festival retrospectives and Latvian films.

7Shopping

Latvians love their shopping malls (a palpable marker of globalisation), but travellers will be pleased to find a wide assortment of small, locally owned shops that specialise in all sorts of Latvian items – knits, crafts, spirits and fashion.

Old Rīga has few shops left catering to residents, everything is aimed at visitors. For the most interesting shops, head to the tonier streets of Central Rīga, such as Brīvības iela and Miera iela, and the genteel byways of the Quiet Centre.

And don’t forget Rīga Central Market, with its plethora of vendors selling food and non-food items, plus the more upscale Kalnciema Kvartāls across the river.

oElīna DobeleFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(map; %2230 1197; www.elinadobele.com; Mednieku iela 7; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Renowned local designer Elīna Dobele specialises in exquisite handmade shoes for men and women. They’re true artisanal products, as artful as the nearby art nouveau gems. She also designs and sells accessories and frocks.

oRobert’s BooksBOOKS

(map Google map; www.robertsbooks.lv; Dzirnavu iela 51; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun)

As much a cafe and cultural centre as it is a bookshop, the namesake owner used to write for the Economist. Browse used and new titles, especially esoteric titles in English. The coffee and tea are excellent; enjoy a cup over conversation in the courtyard.

Mr PageBOOKS

(map Google map; %2641 1292; www.mrpage.lv; Miera iela 4; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Slip on white cotton gloves and caress the books in this elegant shop that treats tomes like works of art – and in fact many are. Browse beautiful titles on art and design (most in English). The kids’ section will spoil them.

Jāņa SētaBOOKS

(map Google map; %2700 0062; www.mapshop.lv; Elizabetes iela 85a, Bergs Bazārs; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

The largest travel bookstore in the Baltics overflows with a bounty of excellent maps (many published in-house), souvenir photo books and guidebooks.

M50FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(map Google map; %2411 5990; www.m50.lv; Miera iela 17; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

Take your pick of pleasures at this bifurcated shop: browse designer housewares on one side and delve into exquisite belts, bags and jewellery on the other. If your energy lags, get a coffee from the cute cafe.

ManillaSTATIONERY

(map Google map; %2200 9101; https://manilla-dizaina-papirlietas.business.site; Tērbatas iela 55; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

You might just forsake email: lovely handmade stationery and paper goods of all kinds are on offer here. Go on, write a letter.

Art Nouveau RīgaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(map Google map; %6733 3030; www.artnouveauriga.lv; Strēlnieku iela 9; h10am-7pm)

Right by Alberta iela, this place sells a variety of art nouveau designer decor items, souvenirs, guides and postcards.

PieneneHANDICRAFTS

(map Google map; %2929 8748; www.studijapienene.lv; Kungu iela 7/9; h10am-8pm)

‘The Dandelion’ is an airy boutique in the heart of Old Rīga where visitors can sample locally produced beauty products, try on floaty scarves and sniff scented candles.

UpeMUSIC

(map Google map; %6720 5509; www.upeveikals.lv; Vāgnera iela 5; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Classical Latvian tunes play as customers peruse traditional instruments and CDs of local folk, rock and experimental music.

HobbywoolARTS & CRAFTS

(map Google map; %2707 2707; www.hobbywool.com; Mazā Pils iela 6; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun)

The slogan at this colourful little shop is ‘Knit like a Latvian’. Given that locals have a long history of creating beautiful, brightly coloured knitted shawls, mittens and socks to ward off the bitter winters, that’s a good goal.

EtmoDESIGN

(map Google map; %2913 4999; www.etmo.lv; Torņa iela 4-3a; h11am-6pm)

Modern homewares, clothing and accessories by Latvian artisans and designers are hand-picked and curated by the shop’s owner. If your aesthetic is clean and contemporary and you’re after a unique souvenir to take (or wear) home, look here.

Ars TelaDESIGN

(map Google map; %6733 4545; www.arstela.lv; Smilšu iela 18; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

Latvian textiles are woven using old-world handlooms at this design shop. Inspired by the scenes of the countryside, the earth-toned fabrics have traditional patterns and are fused with other fine fibres such as silk and cashmere, making for exquisite scarves, sweaters, blankets and more.

Bold Concept StoreCLOTHING

(map Google map; %2925 6045; www.boldconceptstore.lv; Blaumaņa iela 7; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat)

The design lives up to the name at this stark grey and white store that stocks goods from top Baltic designers. Browse the spectacular clothing and accessories.

Cita RotaFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(map Google map; %2033 3773; www.citarota.lv; 11 Novembra Krastmala 29; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Old Believers symbols and other designs from Latvia’s past are the basis for the look at this unique Old Town shop. Clothes, jewellery and interior design items from a variety of local designers are on offer.

RīGA PASS

If you have a long list of sights and activities on your checklist, pick up a Rīga Pass. Perks include free public transport, free or discounted admission to some museums and a free walking tour of Old Rīga. Cards are available for purchase at the tourist office, the airport and several major hotels. Prices for one-/two-/three-day cards are €25/30/35. Check www.liveriga.com for more information.

8Information

INTERNET ACCESS

Fast internet access and full office services, including copying and printing, are available at Copy Pro (%2924 0166; www.copypro.lv; Raiņa bulvāris 17; h24/7).

Most cafes offer free wi-fi to patrons or have password-free access.

MEDICAL SERVICES

ARS (%6720 1006; www.ars-med.lv; Skolas iela 5; consultation from €32) English-speaking doctors; 24-hour consultation available.

MONEY

ATMs are easily found across Rīga.

POST

Look for blue storefronts with ‘Pasta’ written on them. See www.pasts.lv for more info.

Central Post Office (map; Brīvības bulvāris 32; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)

Post Office (map; Central Train Station; h9am-7pm)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Centre (map; %6703 7900; www.liveriga.com; Rātslaukums 6; h10am-6pm) In a corner of the Blackheads House, dispenses popular tourist maps and oodles of other information. Books entertainment, tours and day trips. Sells the Riga Pass discount card.

1188 (www.1188.lv) Lists virtually every establishment in Rīga and the rest of Latvia. The site also provides up-to-date information on Rīga nightlife and traffic plus bus and transit info.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Rīga International Airport (Starptautiskā Lidosta Rīga; %1817; www.riga-airport.com; Mārupe District; g22) is in the suburb of Skulte, 13km southwest of the city centre. It’s the primary hub for air travel to the country. Latvia’s national carrier, airBaltic (www.airbaltic.com), offers direct flights to 70 destinations within Europe.

BOAT

Rīga’s passenger ferry terminal (Eksporta iela 3a) is located about 1km north of Akmens Bridge. About 100m east is a tram stop from where you can catch trams to Old Town and beyond. Tallink (www.tallinksilja.com) has car ferry service to Stockholm (passenger from €69, 18 hours, daily) on large comfortable ships.

You can reach Jūrmala on a scenic ride aboard the River Boat New Way (map; %2644 5180; http://rigaship.lv; 11 Novembra Krastmala; one-way adult/child €20/10, return €30/15; hdaily May-Sep). The journey takes two hours and departs from the river in front of Old Town.

BUS

Buses for destinations across Latvia and beyond depart from Rīga’s modern international bus station (Rīgas starptautiskā autoosta; map; %9000 0009; www.autoosta.lv; Prāgas iela 1), located behind the railway embankment near the Central Market. There is extensive international service. Major companies like Ecolines (www.ecolines.net) and Lux Express (www.luxexpress.eu) have offices here. Ticket machines make buying domestic tickets a breeze.

Small buses to the region around Rīga depart from the bare-bones Minibus Terminal (map; Satekles iela) across from the central train station.

All bus schedules and fares can be found at www.1188.lv.

TRAIN

Rīga’s central train station (Centrālā stacija; %6723 2135; www.pv.lv; Stacijas laukums 2) is convenient to Old and Central Rīga plus public transport. It’s housed within a modern shopping mall with a good supermarket, just outside Old Town.

The information office (open 7am to 7pm), to the far right facing the ticket windows, is very helpful. Use www.1188.lv and the national railways’ site (www.ldz.lv) for schedule and fare info.

International trains head from Rīga to Moscow (16 hours), St Petersburg (15 hours) and Minsk (nine hours) daily.

Rīga has six suburban lines. Of most use to travellers is the Dubulti–Sloka–Ķemeri–Tukums Line, which runs through the entire length of Jūrmala, and the Sigulda–Cēsis–Valmiera Line, which can take you into the heart of Gauja National Park. The Skulte line is convenient for Saulkrasti.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

The cheapest way to get from Rīga airport to the centre is bus 22 (€2, 25 minutes), which runs at least every 30 minutes and stops at several points around town including the Stockmanns complex and on the river side of Old Town.

A taxi ride between the airport and the centre typically costs about €15. Use the queue with cabs from the reliable Baltic Taxi, Bolt and Red Cab.

BICYCLE

Pedal around town with Sixt Bicycle Rental (Sixt velo noma; %6767 6780; www.sixtbicycle.lv; per 30min/day €1.30/13). It has self-service stands across Rīga and the first 30 minutes are free. You can rent the bikes for one-way trips between Rīga and Jūrmala. The ‘Next Bike’ app makes using the bikes a breeze.

Rīga Bike Tours & Rent also rents bikes.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Municipal and private parking in the centre of Rīga costs between €2 and €3 per hour. If you need to drop a car in Rīga for longer, consult www.europark.lv – it runs parking lots all around the city.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

The centre of Rīga is too compact for most visitors to bother with public transport, but trams, buses or trolleybuses are essential if you’re venturing a little further out. For routes and schedules, consult www.rigassatiksme.lv. Note that buses and trolleybuses (which run on overhead wires) may have the same route number but run on entirely different routes. Don’t confuse them.

Fares are paid by e-tickets called e-talons. You can buy and refill them at Narvessen convenience stores, vending machines on board newer trams, at the Opera House stop and in the underground pass by the train station. A single journey costs €2; unlimited tickets are available for 24 hours (€5), three days (€10) and five days (€15). A 10-trip ticket is €10.90.

TAXI

Insist on having the meter on before you set off in a taxi; note that rates vary between operators. From Old Town to Miera iela the fare could be about €7. Some freelance taxis are dubious, so stick to ones summoned by app or phone. Each of these outfits has English-speaking operators and a handy app:

Baltic Taxi (%2000 8500)

Bolt/Taxify (%8999)

Red Cab (%8383)