Southern Latvia (Zemgale)
A long strip of land between Rīga and the Lithuanian border, southern Latvia has been dubbed the ‘bread basket’ of Latvia for its plethora of arable lands and mythical forests. The region is known as Zemgale, named after the defiant Baltic Semigallian (or Zemgallian) tribe who inhabited the region before the German conquest at the end of the 1200s. The Semigallians were a valiant bunch, warding off the impending crusaders longer than any other tribe. Before retreating to Lithuania, they even burned down all of their strongholds rather than surrender them to the invaders.
From the 16th to the 18th centuries, the region (along with Kurzeme) formed part of the semi-independent Duchy of Courland, whose rulers built a mind-boggling palace in Rundāle. Today, the summer palace is Zemgale’s star attraction, and a top day trip from Rīga. Further east, the Daugava River Valley is a verdant expanse with a wide ribbon of water and a few worthy sights.
Bauska
POP 8700
Once an important seat in the Duchy of Courland, these days Bauska is best known as the jumping-off point for the splendid Rundāle Palace. But before you make the hop, consider checking out the local castle.
Bauska CastleCASTLE
(map; Bauskas pils; 
%2001 1880; www.bauskaspils.lv; Pilskalna iela; castle free, museum adult/child €4/2; 
h9am-7pm daily May-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr)
Bauska Castle sits on a picturesque hillock squeezed between two rivers – the Mūsa and Mēmele – that flow parallel to each other. It is actually two castles melded together. The oldest part is in ruins and dates to the Livonian Order in the 15th century. The newer portion is a fortified manor house built by the Duke of Courland in the 16th century and is mostly intact. A museum covers the entire tangled history of the castle and the region.
Take a good look at the grey blocks along the facade of the newer castle section, which is in the midst of a renovation. The blocks appear to be bulging out of the wall, but that’s an optical illusion – the bottom left corner of each brick has been scraped with a chisel to trick the viewer into thinking that they are seeing a shadow.
During the 18th century an Italian by the name of Magno Cavala moved to Bauska in search of a new business venture. He was something of a Casanova (and a conman), and started collecting the water at the junction of the two rivers near the castle. He claimed that the water was a pungent love potion and made a fortune scamming the poor townspeople.
To find the castle ruins from the bus station, walk west to the central roundabout along Zaļā iela then continue west along Uzvaras iela for a total distance of 1.5km.
8Getting There & Away
Bauska’s bus station (Slimnīcas iela 11) offers two to three buses per hour between 6.10am and 10.40pm to/from Rīga (€3, 70 minutes to two hours).
Rundāle Palace
Built as a grand residence for the Duke of Courland, this magnificent palace (Rundāles pils; %6396 2274; www.rundale.net; Rundāle Parish; adult/child from €11/3.50; hpalace 10am-6pm, park 10am-7pm) is a monument to 18th-century aristocratic ostentatiousness, and is rural Latvia’s architectural highlight. It was designed by Italian baroque genius Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who is best known for the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. About 40 of the palace’s 138 rooms are open to visitors, as are the wonderful formal gardens. Detailed displays inside the palace offer fascinating insight into its design and restoration.
Ernst Johann Biron started his career as a groom and lover of Anna Ioanovna, the Russian-born Duchess of Courland. She gave him the duchy when she became Russian empress, but he stayed with her in St Petersburg, becoming the most powerful political figure of the empire. In 1736 he commissioned the Italian architect Bartholomeo Rastrelli to construct his summer residence near Bauska.
Russian authors later blamed Biron for ushering in an era of terror, but many historians believe his role in the persecution of the nobility was exaggerated. On her deathbed, the empress proclaimed Biron the Regent of Russia, but two months later his rivals arrested him and sentenced him to death by quartering. The sentence was commuted to exile. The unfinished palace stood as an empty shell for another 22 years when, pardoned by Catherine II, Ernst Johann returned home. Rastrelli resumed the construction and in 1768 the palace was finally finished. Ernst Johann died four years later at the age of 82. A succession of Russian nobles inhabited (and altered) the palace after the the Duchy of Courland was incorporated into the Russian Empire in 1795.
The palace was badly damaged in the Franco-Russian War in 1812 and again during the Latvian War of Independence in 1919 – what you see now is the result of a painstaking restoration that began in 1972 and ended in 2015.
The castle is divided into two halves; the East Wing was devoted to formal occasions, while the West Wing was the private royal residence. The Royal Gardens, inspired by the gardens at Versailles, were also used for public affairs. The rooms were heated by a network of 80 porcelain stoves, although the castle was mostly used during the warmer months.
Definitely spend an extra €3 and opt for the ‘long route’ option when buying the ticket. Unlike the short route, it includes the duke’s and duchess’ private chambers, which is your chance to peek into the everyday life of 18th-century aristocrats as well as to admire the opulent interior design. Even the duke’s chamber pot, adorned with a delightful painting of swimming salmon, is on display. Outside, the palace and park are surrounded by lush apple orchards.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are basic guesthouses and one actual palace near Rundāle. However, most people visit on day trips from Rīga.
Rundāle Palace has several restaurants and cafes inside the grounds. There are basic cafes and a convenience store around the parking area.
Baltā MājaGUESTHOUSE€
(map; %6396 2140; www.hotelbaltamaja.lv; Rundāle; r from €25; 
p
W)
The ‘White House’ is a quaint guesthouse and cafe sitting in the Rundāle Palace’s Tudor-style servants’ quarters near the entrance to the grounds. The rooms are small and have basic country decor. The cafe serves basic Latvian fare.
oHotel Mežotne PalaceHISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(map; %6396 0711; www.mezotnepalace.com; Mežotne; r €65-150; p
aW)
Live like Duke Ernst Johann and stay at Mežotne Palace, about 2km north of Rundāle, on the far bank of the Lielupe River. The palace was built in a classical style from 1797 to 1802 for Charlotte von Lieven, the governess of Russian empress Catherine II’s grandchildren. After many years in disrepair, it was transformed into a hotel and a popular restaurant in 2001. Rooms are stocked with aristocratic collectables – think cast-iron bed frames, swinging chandeliers and carefully curated antiques.
Rundāle Palace RestaurantCAFETERIA€€
(map; %2922 7369; http://rundale.net; mains €12-17; h10am-6pm May-Oct, shorter hours rest of year)
Located in the palace basement, this vaguely formal restaurant serves old-school Latvian fare suitable for a special occasion. Other palace eating options include a simpler restaurant and a lovely summertime cafe in the gardens.
8Getting There & Away
Various tour operators run day trips to Rundāle Palace from Rīga. By bus, you’ll need to transfer at Bauska (12km east). To reach the palace, take a bus to the Rundāles pils stop (€1, 25 minutes, every one to three hours).
Dobele
POP 9300
Provincial Dobele, in the far western corner of Zemgale, is the gateway to a vast acreage of mythical forests and meandering rivers. The town is centred around its ruined castle. Just outside, you can sample some of the produce you see growing in profusion throughout the region.
oInstitute of HorticultureGARDENS
(map; %2865 0011; www.darzkopibasinstituts.lv; Graudu iela 1; museum adult/student €4/3; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun)
These massive gardens draw throngs of visitors each spring when the scores of fruit trees are in bloom. There are apricot, cherry and plum orchards, as well as one of Europe’s largest collections of lilacs. A museum tells the history of the gardens and a shop offers plants, seeds and shoots for sale. But the real reason to visit is the selection of house-made ice cream made with the farm’s fruit. It’s smooth, creamy and not to be missed.
Castle RuinsCASTLE
(map; Brīvības iela; h24hr) 
F
These impressive Livonian Order castle ruins, which date back to the 1300s, are well worth a stop. This brick bastion was built over the original site of an earlier Semigallian stronghold. In 1289 the Semigallians incinerated their own castle and fled to Lithuania rather than surrender the structure to the invading crusaders. A monument commemorates their departure. The site today is surrounded by a nice park.
8Getting There & Away
Dobele is easily accessible by bus from Rīga (€3.25, 1½ hours, two to three per hour). It’s the main transfer point for service around the region.
Around Dobele
Mysterious sites deep in the forest and large nature parks highlight the lush lands around Dobele. Although it is possible to get around by bus, you’ll find it much easier to explore with your own wheels.
Tērvete
The village of Tērvete barely qualifies as such. The real draw here is the multifaceted Tērvete Nature Park (map; %6372 6212; www.mammadaba.lv; off P103; adult/child €5.50/4; h9am-7pm; 
c), which protects three ancient mounds, including the impressive 13th-century Tērvete Castle Mound that was abandoned by the Semigallians after several battles with the Livonian Order. Nearby Klosterhill was first inhabited over 3000 years ago by Semigallian ancestors, and Swedish Hill was constructed by the Livonian Order in the 13th century.
The main pull is the Fairy Tale Forest, a magical grove of fir trees inhabited by wood-carved figures. There are two main clusters: one is dedicated to the characters of Latvian fairy tales, another – the Dwarfs’ Town – is a toy village complete with log houses and a mill, where children can play dwarfs (while you can play a busy Snow White).
A costumed witch entertains children in the summer with games and potions. If weather permits, you can also go for a swim in a lake at the far end of the forest. The area can be explored on foot, aboard a park train (€1.50) or by bicycle, available for hire (€10) at the information centre at the entrance where there is also a simple cafe.
There are about seven buses a day from Dobele bus station to Tērvete (€1.15, 30 minutes).
Pokaiņi Forest
It’s one of Latvia’s biggest unsolved mysteries: in the mid-’90s a local historian discovered stone cairns throughout the Pokaiņi Forest (map; www.mammadaba.lv; V1128; adult/child €2.50/2, per car €2; htoll booth 10am-7pm) and realised that the rocks had been transported to the forest from faraway destinations. Historians have theorised that Pokaiņi was an ancient sacred ground used in proto-pagan rituals more than 2000 years ago. There are 15km of walking trails through the forest, with themes including mystical healing, the seasons and the zodiac.
Pokaiņi Forest is best reached by car or bicycle. The reserve is 16km southwest of Dobele.
There are two buses daily from Dobele to Īle, which stop at the entrance to the visitor’s centre (€0.85, 20 minutes).
Jaunpils
The small but perfectly medieval Jaunpils Castle (map; %6310 7082; www.jaunpilspils.lv; h10am-8pm May-Sep, shorter hours other times) F is unique in the fact that it has largely retained its original look since 1301, when it was founded by the master of the Livonian Order, Gotfried von Roga. For four centuries until the break-up of the Russian Empire in 1917, it was the home of the German baronial family von der Recke. Ponder the small museum, wander the sprawling manicured grounds or just revel in the atmosphere inside.
You can even spend the night! The Jaunpils Castle Hotel (map; %2610 1458; www.jaunpilspils.lv; r €60-120, dm €15; htavern 10am-8pm; pW)
has four private rooms with brick floors, baldachin-covered beds and real fireplaces. Some rooms share bathrooms and there are also dorm beds. The ‘medieval tavern’ in the castle premises serves quality Latvian fare.
Jaunpils is 21km northwest of Dobele. There are four buses daily from Dobele (€2, 45 minutes).
Daugava River Valley
Latvia’s serpentine Daugava River, known as the ‘river of fate’, winds its way through Latgale, Zemgale and Vidzeme before passing Rīga and emptying out in the Gulf of Rīga. For centuries the river was Latvia’s most important transport and trade corridor for clans and kingdoms further east. Its namesake valley is a sylvan ribbon through the heart of Latvia.
Driving out of Rīga, east towards Daugavpils, you can choose the modern E22 highway or the much more scenic old A6, which wanders through riverside towns and villages, with the Daugava in full view much of the time. Obviously the A6, with its succession of sights and river vistas all the way to Daugavpils, is the more rewarding choice.
1Sights
KokenhausenRUINS
(Kokneses pilsdrupas; off A6, Koknese; adult/child €1.60/0.80)
Stop at Koknese to admire the ruins of Kokenhausen, a medieval castle. It has a stunning location overlooking the confluence of the Daugava and Perse Rivers, and is a good stop to appreciate the valley’s beauty. Built by German crusaders beginning in 1209, what remains today is extensive enough to suggest the huge fortress that once stood here. The surrounding park is pleasant for a riverside stroll. A model in a small information office shows the castle in its prime.
Garden of DestinyMEMORIAL
(Likteņdārzs; %6728 9535; http://liktendarzs.lv; off A6, Koknese; parking €2, site entry by donation; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Oct, 9.30am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr & Nov)
Grandly named the Garden of Destiny, this sprawling project on an island in the river celebrates Latvia as a nation and opened for the centennial in 2018. Designed by acclaimed Japanese gardener-cum-philosopher Shunmyu Masuno, a 2.5km trail links areas with portentous names such as Alley of Destiny, House of Silence and Stream of Tears. Still a work in progress, there are vast new gardens and features that honour the country while recalling recent history.
Teiči Nature Reserve WatchtowerNATURE RESERVE
(map; Teiču Dabas Rezervāts Skatu Tornis; A12, Atašienes pagasts; h24hr) F
Stop at this roadside watchtower for sweeping views of the 20,000-hectare Teiči Nature Reserve, which boasts the largest moss marsh in the Baltics. The hard-to-miss 27m-tall tower is 9km east of the turn to Atašiene via the P62.
5Eating
Liepkalni MaiznīcaLATVIAN€
(%2613 4952; www.liepkalni.lv; A6, Liepsalās; mains €4-8; h8am-10pm)
Follow the other cars and turn off the A6 for this wildly popular roadside bakery and cafe. Liepkalni has busy bakers (you can watch them in action) and a shop where you can buy all manner of Latvian breads, pastries and snacks at bargain prices. There’s a fine cafe and picnic tables with a scenic location on the river. It’s 115km southeast of Rīga via the A6.
Northeastern Latvia (Vidzeme)
When Rīga’s urban hustle fades into a pulsing hum of chirping crickets, you’ve entered northeastern Latvia. Known as Vidzeme, or ‘the Middle Land’, to locals, the country’s largest region is an excellent sampler of what Latvia has to offer. Forest folks can hike, bike or paddle through the thicketed terrain of Gauja National Park, beach bums will revel on white-sand beaches on the coast and history buffs will be sated with a generous sprinkling of castles throughout.
Vidzeme Coast
Vidzeme’s stone-strewn coast is often seen from the car – or bus – window by travellers on the Via Baltica (the A1 highway) en route between Rīga and Tallinn – a real shame! Those who take time to explore will be rewarded with beguiling beach towns, a desolate strand of craggy cliffs and pebble beaches carved from aeons of pounding waves. It’s a nature-lovers dream.
Saulkrasti
A quick 44km jaunt from Rīga, Saulkrasti is an ideal day trip for those who want to enjoy glistening white sand, clear blue water and pristine dunes covered with pine forests. Among the rewards is a sea that gets deep enough to swim in before you walk all the way to Sweden. Much of the beach here has won Blue Flag designation. The lack of mass development provides a sylvan respite from the hubbub of the capital, and the streets are a quiet panoply of gentrified holiday homes.
Saulkrasti, which means ‘sunny coast’, is actually several beachside villages strung along the railway line and parallel beach road, which running north is named Rīgas iela, Ainažu iela and Tallinas iela in succession.
1Sights & Activities
There are over 10km of flat cycling and walking trails along the Saulkrasti beaches. Nature paths wander through the pine forests in the dune behind the shore.
oBaltā KāpaVIEWPOINT
(White Dune; off Rīgas iela)
These striking pine-covered cliffs loom above a pristine white-sand beach dissected by a glistening stream. This is one of the most enchanting places along the entire Latvian coast, and the wooden walkway along the 18m-high cliffs affords sweeping views of the Gulf of Rīga. The Sunset Trail runs for 4km north through the pine forest along the ridge of the dune. Baltā Kāpa is 1.2km northwest of the Inčupe train station and 1.4km southwest of the Pabaži station.
Pabaži BeachBEACH
(Pabaži)
Among many fine beaches, the one directly west of the Pabaži train station and the A1 highway has bright white sand, shallow, pine-covered dunes and very little commercial development anywhere nearby. Of course, you can wander north or south along the long Saulkrasti strand.
Bicycle MuseumMUSEUM
(%2888 3160; www.velomuseum.lv; Rīgas iela 44a; adult/child €2.50/1.50, bicycle rental per 1/24hr €2.50/15; h10am-6pm Apr-Aug, other times by appointment)
Explore this lovely collection of retro bicycles, including a 130-year-old specimen assembled in Latvia. Better yet, choose from a range of modern rental bicycles to explore the region, which is ideal for cycling. The owner is an excellent resource of local info. The museum is close to the Pabaži train station.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rental apartments and rooms can be found all along the string of Saulkrasti villages.
There are supermarkets for picnic supplies near the Pabaži and Saulkrasti train stations. The latter also has a couple of modest cafes in the minute village centre. There are only a few beach cafes or snack bars on the wonderfully unspoiled sand. Day-trippers can bring something enticing for lunch from Rīga.
Jūras PriedeCAMPGROUND€
(%2700 8353; www.juraspriede.lv; Ūpes iela 56a, Zvejniekciems; sites per person €7.50, cabin from €40; pW)
Pitch your tent or rent a log cabin just off the beach in Zvejniekciems, at the northern end of the Saulkrasti region. It’s on the north side of Zvejniekciems harbour, and there is a cafe on the premises. The railway station is a good 4km away and the stop for Rīga buses is 1.4km east on Tallinas iela.
Pine ResortHOTEL€€
(%6690 0623; www.pineresort.lv; Rīgas iela 28; r from €60; hMay-Sep; pW)
Located on a quiet plot well off Rīgas iela, this small hotel is close to the best beach. Rooms in the three-storey building have balconies and come in various sizes. There’s a small bar and cafe with a terrace, as well as a playground. Warm up from the brisk Baltic beach breezes in the sauna. Pabaži station is 800m northeast.
Cafe LagūnaCAFE€
(%2617 8744; off Vidrižu iela; mains €4-12; h9am-7pm May-Sep)
Nestled under the pines, this glass-fronted cafe with a large wooden terrace is an unobtrusive gem right on the sand. There is excellent coffee and other beverages, plus a menu of snacks and meals that breaks away from the rubbery hot dog and crisps cliche. Head here at sunset and have a fresh salmon sandwich with some refreshing fruit. It’s about 800m west of Saulkrasti train station.
Restaurant Baltā KāpaCAFE€€
(%2666 8061; www.baltakapa.lv; Kāpu iela 1; mains €6-15; h11am-10pm)
The multilevel decks at this contemporary cafe are much sought after on balmy summer days. The food is fresh and modern with salads, sandwiches and mains such as pasta, seafood and grilled meats. The coffee drinks and cocktails are refreshing. The cafe is next to the Rīgas iela and is right at the parking area for Baltā Kāpa.
8Getting There & Around
Saulkrasti stretches along the Skulte railway line. Coming from Rīga, the first station is Inčupe, followed by Pabaži, Saulkrasti and Zvejniekciems at the northern end. Trains to/from Rīga run at least hourly (€2, one hour). Travelling by car, take the Tallinn highway (E67/A1) for about 35km and exit onto the coast road, Rīgas iela, at Lilaste, which is at the south end of Saulkrasti. Rent a bike from the Bicycle Museum.
Northern Vidzeme Coast
North of the Saulkrasti strip – which ends around Zvejniekciems – the coast is mostly wild, with quiet beaches, long stretches of dunes and pine forest, and the odd campground and guesthouse. The only two towns of any size, Salacgrīva and Ainaži, are useful places to get gas or a quick snack as you near the Estonian border on the A1 highway.
1Sights
Veczemju klintisNATURAL FEATURE
(Red Cliffs; Mantiņi)
Veczemju klintis, halfway between Saulkrasti and Salacgrīva, is a dramatic spot for a picnic and a walk. The jagged cliffs have a deep reddish hue and are the highlight of this 14km stretch of protected coast known as the Vidzeme Rocky Seashore. Rippled sands undulate between tiny capes and caverns. Look for a tiny, dirt road just south of the point where the A1 runs right along the water, then head south along the bluffs for 4km.
You can also follow signs for the campground ‘Klintis’.
zFestivals & Events
PositivusMUSIC
(www.positivusfestival.com; Sporta iela, off A1; hlate Jul)
A major event on Latvia’s summer calendar, Positivus draws big names and bigger crowds for three days of live music that ranges from folk to funk. Stages are set up in a beachside pine forest 2km north of Salacgrīva, close to the Estonian border. Al fresco camping is the favoured means of accommodation.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lauču AkmensRESORT€€
(%26350536; www.laucakmens.lv; Lauči; campsite per person €9, apt €45-120, mains €7-16; hrestaurant 9am-9pm; pW)
This beachfront complex has sweeping views of the Gulf of Rīga. The range of apartments, from simple units in an older building to ones called ‘Sunset Apartments’ in a modern building, have gorgeous views and decor courtesy of Ikea. The restaurant is excellent and serves local favourites made with locally sourced ingredients (call to confirm opening hours if you’re visiting between October and April).
It’s 7km north of Zvejniekciems, deep in a quiet oceanfront forest west of the A1. Watch for signs.
Kemping KlintisHOLIDAY PARK€€
(%2785 2476; www.klintis.lv; Mantiņi; sites €5, cabins from €50, mains €7-15; hsites Apr-Oct, restaurant 9am-9pm May-Sep)
Close to the Veczemju klintis amidst the Vidzeme Rocky Seashore, this campground has cute little cabins set amidst the pine trees. There are picnic sites and an excellent restaurant, Rankuļrags, which features local ingredients like mushrooms and seafood in hearty country fare. Follow the signs posted along the A1 then follow the dirt roads west.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses plying the A1 from Rīga stop at Salacgrīva and Ainaži. However, to explore the coast, you’ll need your own wheels to traverse the mostly smooth, dirt roads.
Gauja National Park
A stunning region encompassing virgin pines and the rushing Gauja River, Latvia’s first national park (www.gnp.gov.lv) mixes urban areas with pristine countryside, extending from castle-strewn Sigulda to quiet Valmiera, passing woodsy Līgatne and picture-perfect Cēsis along the way.
Founded in 1973, Gauja National Park is Latvia’s third most popular destination, after Rīga and Jūrmala. Sigulda and Cēsis are popular day trips from the capital, and whether you have hours or days, you’ll find opportunities for hiking, biking, canoeing, river rafting and a slew of other sports. Happily, there is no entrance fee to enter the park.
Watch for wild mushrooms on menus across the region.
Sigulda
POP 11,400
The gateway to the Gauja Valley boasts two castles and numerous great hikes and activities. It’s very spread out, so bring your walking shoes.
1Sights
Sigulda sprawls between its three castles, with most of the action occurring on the east side of the Gauja River near the Sigulda Castle complex. Take your own walking tour for an abridged version of Sigulda’s greatest hits, and be sure to include the cable car for awesome views of the valley.
oSigulda Castle ComplexCASTLE
(map Google map; Siguldas pils komplekss; %6797 1335; www.tourism.sigulda.lv; Pils iela 16; h9am-8pm daily May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr)
The city of Sigulda has done a fine job developing the historic buildings at its core into one unmissable complex. The highlight is the Livonian Order Castle (map Google map; Pils iela 16; adult/child €2/1; h9am-8pm daily May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr), which was constructed between 1207 and 1209 by the Livonian Brothers of the Sword. Its evocative ruins are being restored and are worth an exploration.
Some sections are complete and you can walk along the ramparts and ascend a tower with wonderful views over the forested Gauja Valley.
See if you can spy Krimulda Manor and Turaida Castle poking through the trees.
At the front of the complex, the 1878 neo-Gothic manor house was the home of Russian prince Dimitri Kropotkin, the man responsible for turning Sigulda into a tourist haven. It now houses Sigulda district council and is not open to the public. The complex’s grounds have some lovely gardens; historic auxiliary buildings are now home to excellent restaurants, cafes and shops with working artists.
oTuraida Museum ReserveCASTLE
(map Google map; Turaidas muzejrezervāts; %6797 1402; www.turaida-muzejs.lv; Turaidas iela 10; adult/child summer €6/1.15, winter €3.50/0.70; h9am-8pm May-Sep, 10am-7pm Apr & Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar)
Turaida means ‘God’s Garden’ in ancient Livonian, and this green knoll capped with a fairy-tale castle is certainly a heavenly place. The red-brick castle with its tall cylindrical tower was built in 1214 on the site of a Liv stronghold. A museum inside the castle’s 15th-century granary offers an interesting account of the Livonian state from 1319 to 1561; additional exhibitions can be viewed in the 42m-high Donjon Tower and the castle’s western and southern towers.
The rest of the reserve features a variety of buildings that have been transformed into small galleries and exhibits. It’s worth stopping by the smith house, where you can try forging metal. There is a real blacksmith on hand who sells his crafts, and guests can try pounding Liv pagan symbols into small chunks of iron.
In the graveyard of the pretty wooden church (1750) is the grave of Maija Roze, an ill-fated beauty known as the ‘Rose of Turaida’ and the subject of a tragic legend. Look for the onyx headstone bearing the inscription ‘Turaidas Roze 1601–1620’.
The nearby Folk Song Garden (map Google map) is dotted with 26 sculptures dedicated to epic Latvian heroes immortalised in the dainas, poetic folk songs that are a major Latvian tradition.
Gūtmaņa CaveCAVE
(map Google map; %6130 3030; off Turaidas iela; h24hr) F
More grotto than cave, this 19m-deep fissure in the earth is most famous for its role in the tragic legend of the Rose of Turaida. Most tourists visit to peruse the inordinate amount of graffiti spread along the walls – some of it dates back to the 16th century. Many legends are attached to the spring-fed water flowing out of the cave. There’s a paid parking area and small information office (9am to 5pm) on the east side of Turaidas iela.
Cable CarCABLE CAR
(map Google map; %2802 0088; www.cablecar.lv; Poruka iela 14; one-way adult/child €8/5; h10am-6.20pm May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr)
Enjoy terrific views by catching a ride on the cable car over the Gauja River. From the Sigulda side, it departs from a rocky precipice south of the bridge and heads towards Krimulda Manor. The ride is 1km in length and 43m above the river.
Krimulda ManorHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; %2911 1619; http://krimuldasmuiza.lv; Mednieku iela 3)
The sprawling, crumbling Krimulda estate includes a neoclassical manor house from 1822, whose proud columns look out onto modest gardens. Inside you can get a very simple room for the night (from €40) or a hostel bed (€13). About 300m north are the tree-shaded ruins of a 14th-century medieval castle that was destroyed in 1601. The manor is 200m south of the cable car station.
THE ROSE OF TURAIDA
Sigulda is home to many legends. One especially melancholy one involves Maija Roze (May Rose), a little girl who was taken into Turaida Castle after she was found among the wounded following a battle in the early 1600s. She grew into a beautiful young woman and was courted by men from far and wide, but her heart belonged to Viktors, a humble gardener at nearby Sigulda Castle. They would meet in secret at Gūtmaņa Cave, halfway between the two castles.
One day, a particularly desperate soldier among Maija Roze’s suitors lured her to the cave with a letter forged in Viktors’ handwriting. When Maija Roze arrived, he kidnapped her. Maija Roze pleaded with the soldier and offered to give him the scarf from around her neck in return for her freedom. She claimed it had magical protective powers, and to prove it, she told him to swing at her with his sword. It isn’t clear whether or not she was bluffing or if she really believed in the scarf’s powers – either way, the soldier took his swing and killed her.
The soldier was captured, convicted and hanged for his crime. In the centuries since, documents have been found that seem to give credence to this story that lacks a fairy-tale ending. Today, a small stone memorial commemorates Maija Roze.
2Activities
Canoeing or otherwise floating down the lazy Gauja River is a top activity in the region. Many trips end in Sigulda (which is downstream from the rest of the park) and you can join a tour that begins with transport from Sigulda upstream.
Other activities include exciting options like zip lines and a bobsled track. Hiking and cycling are very popular and there are myriad routes to choose from. You’ll also find plenty of touristy activities like thrill rides and adventure parks.
Canoeing & Boating
Floating down the peaceful Gauja River is a great way to observe this pristine area away from modern life. There are campgrounds all along the stretch of river from Cēsis to Sigulda. Team up with one of the outfitters within the national park that organises boat trips along the Gauja, or you can just head upstream, hop into an inner tube, and float back to town.
Trips cover most sections of the river, although few start in Sigulda and continue southwest. Most begin in Līgatne or Cēsis.
JaunzāģeriWATER SPORTS
(map; %2200 2033; www.jaunzageri.lv/; V89, Gauja River; canoe rental per day from €30; hMay-Sep)
A virtual oasis along the river, Jaunzāģeri has a remote location midway between Līgatne and Sigulda. You can rent canoes, kayaks and rafts, which include transport from Sigulda or back to Līgatne and Cēsis. The site is deeply shaded by trees and there are campsites (per person €5) and cabins (from €35). Best of all, there is an authentic pirts, the traditional black sauna (€50). It’s a magical spot.
LaivojamKAYAKING
(%2652 9812; www.laivojam.lv; kayak rental from €40)
Good outfit that rents kayaks and canoes for trips of many lengths. Rates include transport to the starting point from Sigulda, plus life jackets and other gear. There is no office: all details are arranged when you book.
Makars Tourism BureauCANOEING
(map Google map; %2924 4948; www.makars.lv; Peldu iela 2; river tour from €30; hhours vary)
Runs canoe and kayak tours, ranging from four hours to seven days, on the Gauja River that end in Sigulda. Rafting starts at €10 for a 45-minute trip. It also runs a campground (per person €6) and you can rent camping gear.
Hiking & Cycling
Sigulda is prime hiking territory. A popular (and easy) route is the 40-minute walk from Krimulda Castle to Turaida Museum Reserve via Gūtmaņa Cave. Or you can head south from Krimulda and descend to Little Devil’s Cave and Big Devil’s Cave, cross the river via a footbridge, and return to Sigulda (about two hours). Note the black walls in Big Devil’s Cave, which are believed to be from the fiery breath of a travelling demon that took shelter here to avoid the sunlight.
East of Sigulda castle, try the well-marked loop that joins Peter’s Cave, Satezele Castle Mound and Artists’ Hill; it takes about 1½ hours. The panoramic view of Turaida Castle and the Gauja River valley from Artists’ Hill is spectacular.
Tourist offices have numerous brochures and booklets outlining walks, hikes and cycling routes in the region lasting from under an hour to many days.
One excellent bike route follows forest trails along the Gauja River to Līgatne. It covers 23km and takes about two hours. Several outfitters around Sigulda offer bicycle and mountain-bike rentals.
Reiņa TraseCYCLING
(map; %2927 2255; www.reinatrase.lv; Krimuldas novads; bicycle rental per 3hr €7; h8am-5pm)
Just north of Sigulda, the local golf club doubles as a bicycle rental shop.
Thrill Sports
Bobsled TrackADVENTURE SPORTS
(map Google map; Bob trase; %6797 3813; www.bobtrase.lv; Šveices iela 13; adult/child €10/7; hnoon-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep & Nov–mid-Mar)
Sigulda’s 1200m bobsled track has a fine legacy as the Latvians score above their weight in bobsleigh (they’ve won three Olympic medals since 2014). In winter, you can fly down the 16-bend track at 80km/h in a five-person Vučko soft bob. Summer thrill-seekers can ride a wheeled summer bob.
Cable Car ZiplineADVENTURE SPORTS
(map Google map; %2838 3333; http://zipline.lv; Poruka iela 14; bungee jump adult/child €55/15; h10am-6pm May-Oct)
Make like the cable car and zoom over the Gauja River on a mile-long zip line. Wave to the birds.
2Town Walk
Three Castles Tour
START Sigulda Train Station
END Sigulda Bus Station
LENGTH 6.6km; 5½ hours
The town’s three main castle reserves and one legendary cave can easily be tackled in an afternoon.
From the train station, walk down Raiņa iela and linden-lined Pils iela until you reach the 1Sigulda Castle Complex, built on the orders of Russian prince Dmitry Kropotkin, who developed Sigulda as a resort town. He was killed by a revolutionary terrorist in 1879, when the construction commenced. Check out the ruins and reconstructed sections of the 2Livonian Order Castle towards the rear, which was constructed in 1207 by the Order of the Brethren of the Sword, but was severely damaged in the 18th century during the Great Northern War. Stop at the beer garden or grab an ice cream from one of the excellent cafes.
Now follow Poruka iela to the rocky precipice and take the 3cable car over the scenic river valley to 4Krimulda Manor, a once-elegant 19th-century estate that’s making an effort to attract tourists. Check out the views from the rear terrace.
Walk north to the nearby crumbling ruins of 5Krimulda Medieval Castle, then follow Serpentine Rd to 6Gūtmaņa Cave. Immortalised by the legend of the Rose of Turaida, it’s the largest cave/grotto in the Baltic. Take some time to read the myriad inscriptions carved into the walls and dip your hand in the cool spring water.
Now head up to the 7Turaida Museum Reserve. The towering medieval castle was erected in the 13th century for the Archbishop of Rīga over the site of an ancient Liv stronghold. Climb the ancient tower for sweeping views of Gauja National Park, then explore the grounds, filled with whimsical sculptures depicting Latvian fairy-tale characters. Pause at the cafe and then catch any bus with ‘Siguldas AO’ on the front back to back to Sigulda bus station (€0.60, about every 75 minutes).
zFestivals & Events
Sigulda Opera FestivalMUSIC
(%6797 1335; www.opersvetki.lv; hlate Jul)
The evocative Livonian Order Castle ruins serve as a backdrop for the country’s top opera festival.
4Sleeping
What Sigulda lacks in quantity of hotel rooms, it makes up for in vacation rooms and apartment rentals. Try to stay near the river or train station so you can walk to everywhere of interest.
Camping Siguldas BeachCAMPGROUND€
(map Google map; Kempings Siguldas Pludmale; %2924 4948; www.makars.lv; Peldu iela 2; per person/tent/car/caravan €6/3/3/6; hmid-May–mid-Sep)
Pitch your tent in the grassy camping area beside a sandy beach along the Gauja. Two-person tents can be hired for €5 per day. There’s a second camping area up the river in Līgatne that’s owned and operated by Makars as well.
Hotel AparjodsHOTEL€€
(map; %6797 2230; www.aparjods.lv; Ventas iela 1; s/d from €45/55; pW)
Tucked behind the busy main road 1.5km away from the centre, Aparjods is a modern complex of barn-like structures with reed-and-shingle roofing. The rooms, however, aren’t as characterful and are ready for a new generation of furniture. Breakfast is included and served in the excellent on-site restaurant.
Spa Hotel EzeriRESORT€€
(map; %6797 3009; www.hotelezeri.lv; Siguldas pagasts Ezeri; r €75-100; pW
s)
The luxurious Ezeri, 2km south of the centre, offers all manner of ways to treat your body, including a small swimming pool, a rooftop sun deck and an elaborate spa that offers a traditional pirts sauna. Rooms are fairly simple, with a contemporary decor that’s easy on the eyes.
Hotel SiguldaHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %6797 2263; www.hotelsigulda.lv; Pils iela 6; r €60-125; pW)
Right in the centre of town, this is the oldest hotel in Sigulda – it was built by the Russian baron who had dreams of turning the little hamlet into an exciting tourist destination. While the old stone-and-brick facade is quite charming, the rooms are mostly basic Scandi stark.
5Eating & Drinking
Sigulda’s dining options are expanding, led by the many choices at the renovated Sigulda Castle Complex.
Jāņa TirgusFOOD HALL€
(map Google map; %2233 6033; www.facebook.com/pg/JanaTirgus; Krišjāņa Valdemāra iela 2; mains €3-10; h8am-8pm)
This modern market hall near the train station has a good range of vendors selling prepared foods, from burgers to seafood. Other stalls sell local produce (the blueberries are heavenly), baked goods, smoked fish and honey from the region. Dine under the skylit roof or prepare a picnic.
Kaķu MājaLATVIAN€
(map Google map; Cat’s House; %2661 6997; www.cathouse.lv; Pils iela 8; mains €4-8; hrestaurant 8am-9pm daily, disco 10pm-2am Fri & Sat; W)
The ‘Cat’s House’ has a long CV: cafeteria, bakery, cafe and nightclub. Get a tray and load up on cheap Latvian fare or get one of the good coffee drinks and enjoy it with a freshly baked tart. Very centrally located, it has a fine outdoor terrace, and a nearby pizzeria and rooms for rent (from €35).
oAparjodsINTERNATIONAL€€
(map; Ventas iela 1; mains €11-35; hnoon-10pm)
The namesake hotel’s popular restaurant serves an excellent range of Latvian and European specials made with locally sourced ingredients. Service is excellent and there’s a good beer and drinks list. In summer the front opens up to the outside, while at other times a roaring fire warms the dark-wood dining room. At busy times be sure to book.
Valmiermuiža Beer GardenBEER GARDEN
(map Google map; %2734 4025; Pils iela 16, Sigulda Castle Complex; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, noon-8pm Fri-Sun May & Sep)
The castle’s 19th-century brewery lives again, thanks to one of Latvia’s best craft breweries, Valmiera-based Valmiermuiža. Sample their range of beers and enjoy creative snacks and smoked meat dishes.
8Information
Sigulda Tourism Information Centre (%6797 1335; www.tourism.sigulda.lv; Ausekļa iela 6; h9am-7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr; W) Located within the train station, this very helpful centre has stacks of information about activities and accommodation. It stocks a huge range of official information on the national park.
8Getting There & Away
The best way to reach Sigulda is via the centrally located train station (Ausekļa iela). Roughly one train per hour (between 6am and 9pm) travels the Rīga–Sigulda–Cēsis–Valmiera line. Destinations from Sigulda include Rīga (€1.90, 1¼ hours).
Buses make the 50km run between Sigulda’s bus station (off Ausekļa iela), next to the train station, and Rīga (€2.75, 1¼ hour, every 30 minutes between 7am and 10.30pm).
8Getting Around
Sigulda’s attractions are quite spread out and after a long day of walking you’ll enjoy the handy bus service that links the train station, Sigulda Castle Complex and Turaida Museum Reserve (€0.60).
DON’T MISS
PIRTS, THE WONDERFULLY TRADITIONAL SAUNA
Cast modesty aside and indulge in Latvia’s most Latvian tradition, the pirts. A pirts is Latvia’s version of the sauna, and while somewhat similar to the Finnish sauna, there are many elements that set this sweaty experience apart. A traditional pirts is run by a sauna master, who cares for her attendees while performing choreographed branch beatings that feel almost shamanistic in nature. While you lie naked and prone, the sauna master swishes branches in the air to raise the humidity then lightly beats a variety of wildflowers and branches over your back and chest. Pirts are much hotter and more humid than their Finnish counterparts – a branch-beating session usually lasts around 15 minutes before one exits the sauna to jump in a nearby body of water (lake, pond or sea). The aroma of the sauna is also very important – sauna masters take great care to create a melange of herbs and spices to accent the air. In general, an afternoon at a pirts involves multiple sweat sessions interspersed with leaps in cool water – beer, herbal tea and snacks are essential accompaniments.
Most traditional saunas are in the countryside at private cottages. However, you can find authentic pirts in Sigulda at the Spa Hotel Ezeri and Hotel Aparjods. In the countryside, try Ziedlejas (map; %2610 5993; https://ziedlejas.lv; off A2, Krimuldas; spa treatment from €150; hby appointment), which is 7km west of Sigulda, and most delightfully, the riverside Jaunzāģeri. Around three hours of sauna with plenty of tea and snacks costs €50 to €150 per person.
Līgatne
POP 1000
Deep in the heart of the Gauja National Park, little Līgatne is a twilight zone of opposite extremes. The town’s collection of defunct and ugly industrial relics sprouts up from a patchwork of picturesque pine forests and cool blue rivulets. The old village is a tidy little gem and is right on the swift-flowing Līgatne River, a tributary of the Gauja. (The grim paper mill and worker housing is just north.)
1Sights
Līgatne Nature TrailsNATURE RESERVE
(map; %2832 8800; www.ligatnesdabastakas.lv; adult/child €3.60/2.10; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
An odd cross between a nature park and a zoo, here elk, deer, bison and wild boar roam in open-air enclosures in the forest. From the parking area, a 4km trail links the main sights, which include several small cages holding some sad-eyed badgers and other critters. Along the way are observation stops and a 22m-high tower with good views of the birch and conifer forests and the Gauja River. It’s 4km by bike from the town centre.
Soviet Secret BunkerHISTORIC SITE
(map; Padomju Slepenais Bunkurs; %6416 1915; www.bunkurs.lv; Skaļupes; guided tours adult/child €13.20/11.20; htours at noon, 2pm, 4pm Sat & Sun, 3pm Mon-Fri)
What poses as a dreary rehabilitation centre is in fact a top-secret Soviet bunker, known by its code name, the Pension. When Latvia was part of the USSR, it was one of the most important strategic hideouts during a time of nuclear threat. Remarkably, almost all of the bunker’s 2000 sq m still look as they did when it was in operation, making it a scarily authentic USSR time capsule.
Tours in English are offered on weekends and include a (surprisingly tasty) Soviet-style lunch served within the bunker’s cafeteria. Note the plastic flowers on the table – they’ve been adorning the dining hall since 1982.
Vienkoču ParksSCULPTURE
(map; %2932 9065; www.vienkoci.lv; adult/child €4/3; h10am-6pm)
Rihards, a local wood carver, has filled a 10-hectare park with his unique creations. Short trails snake past modern art installations, a classical garden, model houses and displays about wooden shipbuilding. Buy yourself a hand-crafted wooden bowl. The park is right off the A2, at the Līgatne turn.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lāču MigaGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; %6415 3481; www.lacumiga.lv; Gaujas iela 22; r €36-56; pW)
Built in a large log chalet, the ‘Bears’ Den’ stays true to its moniker with a gargantuan plush teddy bear positioned at the front entrance. Slews of stuffed bears welcome guests in the 12 rooms. The house is 1.5km from the historic centre.
Vilhelmīnes dzirnavasLATVIAN€
(map; %2755 1311; Spriņģu iela 1; mains €5-10; h10am-9pm)
Located in the historic centre, Līgatne’s most atmospheric restaurant serves up traditional food and drink such as beet soup, homemade meatballs and kvass (an alcoholic drink made from rye bread). On balmy days, sit outside on the covered terrace and watch bicycling tourists whizz past.
8Information
Tourist Information Centre (%6415 3169; www.visitligatne.lv; Spriņģu iela 2; h10am-6pm May-Sep) Very helpful and offers great advice for exploring the area, including pointing you in the direction of several small local museums.
8Getting There & Away
There are hourly buses to Sigulda (€1, 15 minutes) and Cēsis (€1.40, 30 minutes). Four trains daily stop at Līgatne station on their way to/from Rīga (€2.65, 1½ hours), Sigulda (€0.70, 10 minutes) and Cēsis (€1.55, 30 minutes). The train station is 6.5km south of the historic centre.
Cēsis
POP 18,100
With its stunning medieval castle, cobbled streets, green hills and landscaped gardens, Cēsis is simply the cutest little town in Latvia. There’s a lot of history here, too: it started eight centuries ago as a Livonian Order stronghold in a land of unruly pagans, and saw horrific battles right under (or inside) the castle walls. Although it makes a perfect day trip from Rīga, Cēsis is worth a longer stay, especially since there is the whole of Gauja National Park around it to explore.
Cēsis
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oCēsis CastleCASTLE
(map Google map; Cēsu pils; %2831 8318; www.cesupils.lv; Pils laukums 9; adult/child €8/4.50; h10am-6pm daily May-Sep, to 5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr)
Cēsis Castle is actually two castles in one. The moody dark-stone towers belong to the increasingly restored old castle. Founded by Livonian knights in 1214, it was sacked by Russian tsar Ivan the Terrible in 1577. The newer castle, the stolid 18th-century manor house, was once inhabited by the dynasty of German counts von Sievers and now houses a museum that features original fin-de-siècle interiors. In summer there is a demonstration garden showing how people ate 500 years ago.
After visiting the castle, take a walk through the landscaped castle park (Lenču iela 9a). Nearby is the hilltop Russian Orthodox Church of Transfiguration (map Google map; Palasta 22), which the von Sievers built at their family cemetery (like many Germans on Russian service they converted to Orthodoxy).
St John’s ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Svētā Jāņa baznīca; www.cesujana.lelb.lv; h10am-5pm)
Switch on your imagination in this 13th-century church where armour-clad Livonian knights prayed and buried their dead in what was then a lonely island of Christianity surrounded by the lands of pagans. Currently under restoration, it’s the home of the town’s Lutheran community and the church contains tombs of the order’s grand masters and top bishops.
2Activities
Many people rate the section of the Gauja River between Cēsis and Līgatne – lined with dramatic sandstone outcrops and especially verdant forest – as the most scenic. There is also some winter skiing in the area – think bunny slopes and top-notch cross-country.
ŽagarkalnsCANOEING
(map; %2626 6266; www.zagarkalns.lv; Mūrlejas iela 12; canoe rental per trip from €45; hhours vary by season; c)
From its attractive riverside campground (€6 per person), 3km west of the centre, this adventure company rents canoes, kayaks and bikes for trips in the area, including the not-to-be-missed Cēsis–Līgatne river run. Rates include gear and transport. In winter, they have several gentle pistes, including one that goes through a forest, and a separate safe area for children to learn skiing.
Cēsis InsideWALKING
(%2910 9965; www.cesisinside.lv; tours from €20)
Experienced local guide Sigita Kletniece leads walking tours through historical Cēsis and out in the countryside around the river and national park. Experiences can include traditional pie-making, beer-tasting, castle-climbing and much more.
Ezi VeikalsCYCLING
(map Google map; %2657 3132; www.veikals.ezi.lv; Pils laukums 1; bike/e-bike per day €10/25; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)
Good central source for rental bikes of many types, including e-bikes.
ĀRAIšI
Photogenically set on an islet in the middle of Āraiši Lake, Āraiši Archaeological Park (map; %2566 9935; http://amata.lv/araisu-arheologiskais-parks/; Āraišu ezerpils; adult/child €2/1; h9am-7pm daily Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Thu-Sun Nov-Mar) is a reconstruction of a fortified settlement inhabited by Latgallians, an ancient tribe that called the region home in the 9th and 10th centuries. A wooden walkway leads across the water to the unusual village, which was discovered by archaeologists in 1965.
Peering across the lake are the ruins of Āraiši Stone Castle (Āraišu mūra pils), built by Livonians in the 14th century and destroyed by Ivan IV’s troops in 1577. From here, a path leads to a reconstructed Stone Age settlement – there are a couple of reed dwellings and earth ovens for roasting meat and fish. The fortress and castle, together with the iconic 18th-century Āraiši windmill (Āraišu vējdzirnavas), are signposted 1km along a dirt track from the main road and form the Āraiši Museum Park (Āraišu muzejparks). The complex is 7km south of Cēsis.
zFestivals & Events
There are concerts and festivals almost every weekend during the summer; visit http://cesufestivals.lv for details.
4Sleeping
Cēsis’ popularity means that the selection of accommodation is ever-expanding, both in the historic town centre and in the lovely countryside.
Hotel CēsisHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %6412 0122; www.hotelcesis.com; Vienības laukums 1; r from €55; pW)
Though the exterior is vaguely neoclassical, the inside features rows of corporate-standard hotel rooms. The in-house restaurant serves good Latvian and European cuisine in a formal setting or on the lovely terrace overlooking manicured gardens.
KārlamūižaHERITAGE HOTEL€€
(map; %2616 5298; www.karlamuiza.lv; Kārļi; r from €55; pW)
In the village of Kārļi, the barons von Sievers bought this country house in 1777 to go with their castle in Cēsis, 12km to the northeast. Reborn as a gentrified country hotel, the two-storey stone-sided building surrounded by an apple orchard has rustic-style rooms of varying size. Sit on the terrace and revel in the silence.
The restaurant is much heralded for its locally sourced cuisine.
Glūdas GravaAPARTMENT€€
(map Google map; %2703 6862; www.gludasgrava.lv; Glūdas iela 6a; r from €55; pW)
Each of the five studios with glassy front walls and individual entrances in a renovated brick garage is equipped with a kitchen and sleeps up to four people. It’s close to the centre and you can relax on the outdoor terrace. Bike rentals available.
Villa Santa HotelHOTEL€€€
(map; %6417 7177; www.villasanta.lv; Gaujas iela 88; r from €90; pW)
Once used by the Russian nobility as holiday homes, three 19th-century wooden buildings have been transformed into a lovely hotel deep in the woods, near a river ravine, just west of the centre. Banishing decades of grim municipal furnishings, the rooms feature a mix of appealing modern and traditional-style furniture. The restaurant is also good.
5Eating & Drinking
Cēsis is becoming a great destination for food lovers. Day-trippers will be spoiled for lunch choices.
oCēsu MaizeBAKERY€
(map Google map; %2641 2803; www.facebook.com/cesu.maize/; Rīgas iela 18; bread from €6; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
This tiny craft bakery is always warm, humid and redolent with the scents of freshly baking bread. Hearty loaves made with whole grains and rye are close to the Latvian soul and here the big loaves are almost spiritual. Everything is locally grown and organic. Work your way through the generous samples.
Mākslas Telpa MalaCAFE€
(map Google map; %2610 1945; www.facebook.com/telpamala; Lenču iela 11; mains €3-5; hnoon-10pm Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; W)
Vinetas un Allas KārumlādesCAFE€
(map Google map; %2837 5579; Rīgas iela 12; snacks €2-5; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
Nail your sweet tooth at this fancy bake shop and cafe. Look for pies, muffins and tarts made with local berries and rhubarb. There are over a dozen flavours of cake, as well as little sweets that are works of art. Sit back with a coffee or a glass of wine.
Cafe PriedeCAFE€€
(map Google map; %2721 2727; www.facebook.com/kafepriede/; Rīgas iela 27; mains €5-12; h11am-10pm)
Overlooking the main square and fountain, this modern cafe has a seasonal menu with dishes crafted from local produce: it’s all very fresh and inventive. Stop in for a coffee, a drink or a meal. Local artists are featured in the decor.
oTrimpus Craft BreweryMICROBREWERY
(map Google map; %2300 2000; https://trimpus.lv; Lielā Skolas iela 6; h4-11pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun Jun-Aug, closed Sun-Tue Sep-May)
This subterranean brewery has a great street terrace in the summer and a rotating line-up of house-made beers, sodas and ciders. Sour beers are a speciality.
8Information
Tourism Information Centre (%2831 8318; www.tourism.cesis.lv; Baznīcas laukums 1; h10am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; W) Well versed in the many ways to first enjoy Cēsis, then explore the national park.
8Getting There & Away
Cēsis’ bus station (Raiņa iela) and train station (Raiņa iela)
share the same location, just east of the centre. There are five trains per day each way on the line from Rīga (€3.50, two hours). Towns served from Cēsis include Sigulda (€2, 40 minutes) and Valmiera (€1.55, 30 minutes).
Two or three buses per hour ply the route from Cēsis to Rīga (€4.15, two hours), stopping in Līgatne and Sigulda (€1.85, 45 minutes).
DON’T MISS
MUIžAS OF THE GAUJA
Beyond the Gauja National Park’s main towns, there are plenty of hidden treasures tucked away, including grand 18th-century muižas (manor houses), which were once home to German, Russian and Swedish landowners lording it over the Latvian peasantry.
Ungurmuiža (map; %manor 2200 7332, restaurant 2565 2388; www.ungurmuiza.lv; off P14; manor adult/child €3/2, mains €8-17; hmanor 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun, restaurant noon-10pm Tue-Sun) Beautiful Ungurmuiža is one of the best preserved manor houses in all of Latvia. The stately red mansion was created by Baron von Campenhousen and his descendants lived here until WWII, when the government swiftly seized the property. It was, rather miraculously, kept in mint condition and today the delicate mural paintings and original doors are a delightful throwback to aristocratic times. The restaurant is renowned for its creative takes on Latvian cuisine. You can also stay the night (single/double €35/55). It’s 14km west of Cēsis.
Bīriņi Castle (map; Bīriņu pils; %manor 6402 4033, restaurant 2652 1733; www.birinupils.lv; off P9, Bīriņi; manor adult/child €2.50/2) Like a big pink birthday cake sitting amidst ornamental gardens, historic Bīriņi Castle governs a scenic tract of land overlooking a tranquil lake. The baronial estate has been transformed into an opulent hotel swathed in a Renaissance style focused around the grand foyer staircase. Daytime visitors can savour the opulence on a tour or boat ride. The restaurant serves traditional baronial fare (mains €11 to €25) and rooms (€65 to €95) come in several luxurious flavours. It’s 20km northwest of Sigulda.
Dikli Castle (Diķu pils; %6402 7480; www.diklupils.lv; Dikli; r €70-125; hrestaurant 2-10pm Fri & Sat, other times by reservation; pW) It was here, in 1864, that a priest organised Latvia’s first Song Festival, which gives Dikli Castle an important place in the nation’s history. The current neobaroque aristocratic manor has been transformed into a luxurious retreat with hotel rooms and a lavish spa known for its herbal treatments. Visitors can enjoy strolls in the 20-hectare park, boat rides, and tours detailing the history and restoration of the manor. The restaurant (mains €17 to €23) is one of Latvia’s best. It’s 20km northwest of Valmiera.
Annas Hotel (%6418 0700; www.annashotel.com; Annas; apt from €135; hrestaurant 9am-10pm; pW) Dating from the 18th century, Annas Hotel is a boutique property that fuses historical charm with thoroughly modern motifs. It’s all about relaxation, and the hotel provides just that through spa sessions and lovely grounds peppered with trees and ponds. The restaurant (mains €17 to €26) is known for its complex, seasonal menu. It’s 40km southeast of Sigulda.
Valmiera
POP 22,800
This pleasant university town often features as the starting point for boat trips on the Gauja River. The town is famous for its beer, which you must try here if you haven’t elsewhere in Latvia.
1Sights & Activities
oValmiermuižaBREWERY
(map Google map; %tour booking 2026 4296; www.valmiermuiza.lv; Dzirnavu iela 2; tours adult/child €9/3; htours daily with advance booking)
See how one of Latvia’s best-known craft beers is made on an entertaining tour: expect friendly guides and plenty of samples. Enjoy hearty pints and Latvian favourites with a seasonal twist in the Beer Kitchen, a lively cafe (open Friday evenings and from 10am Saturday and Sunday). Valmiermuiža is just north of the city centre, past Viestura laukums.
Valmieras MuzejsMUSEUM
(map Google map; %6422 3620; https://valmierasmuzejs.lv; Bruņinieku iela 3; adult/child €1.40/free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Exhibits at this enjoyable museum complex along the Gauja River are housed in eight historical buildings. Also on the grounds are medieval castle ruins and a herbal garden demonstrating how people made medicine and flavoured food hundreds of years ago.
St Simon’s ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Svētā Sīmaņa Baznīca; %6420 0333; www.simanadraudze.lv; Bruņinieku iela 2; tower adult/child €2/0.50; h11am-6pm)
Dating to 1283, St Simon’s shelters medieval burial tombs, an altarpiece, The Temptation (1842), a pulpit from 1739 and an 1886 pipe organ.
Eži VeikalsADVENTURE SPORTS
(map Google map; %6420 7263; www.ezi.lv; Rīgas iela 43; bike/e-bike per day €10/25, canoe rental from €40; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
If you need to rent a canoe, raft or bicycle for your Gauja National Park adventure (such as the 45km float to Cēsis), check out the selection here. It’s located next to a popular skate park.
5Eating
VecpuisisCAFE€€
(map Google map; %2611 0026; https://vecpuisis.lv; Leona Paegles iela 10; mains €7-12; h11am-10pm Wed-Sun)
Boasting a fabulous terrace overlooking a park, this genteel cafe in an elegant old building serves locally sourced seasonal fare. The menu melds Latvian and European favourites.
8Getting There & Away
Valmiera is on the train line with Cēsis, Sigulda and Rīga (€4.20, 2½ to three hours, five daily). There are hourly buses to/from Cēsis (€1.80, 45 minutes).
Southeastern Latvia (Latgale)
Welcome to the breadbasket. Latgale, Latvia’s southeast region, is dissected by the mighty Daugava and dotted with scenic lakes hidden in the depths of a thick forest. German knights failed to capture Latgale at the dawn of Latvia’s history, which sent the region along a rather different historical path than the rest of the country. Russian, Polish and Jewish influences are felt more strongly here, while locals tend to think of themselves as Latgalean first and Latvian second. It’s a fertile land of farmers, who speak a distinct dialect, which many believe should be branded a separate language.
Latgale’s two main cities, Daugavpils and Rēzekne, are slowly shedding their grey Soviet clothes and putting on a modern cosmopolitan outfit. Latgale is a good addition to an itinerary that includes Lithuania to the south and the Daugava River Valley to the west.
Daugavpils
POP 85,000
Latvia’s second-largest city has a walkable old centre and a don’t-miss old fortress on the Daugava River. Predominantly Russian-speaking, Daugavpils was once a provincial Russian imperial town with a thriving Jewish community. Today it struggles with population loss as ethnic Russians have moved across the nearby border.
The city’s greatest celebrity, Mark Rothko, travelled across the ocean to become one of America’s most notable 20th-century artists. A contemporary art centre honours his work and legacy.
1Sights
Daugavpils has an interesting historical centre that’s a disharmonious mix of old brick buildings, the odd art nouveau gem, grumpy Soviet-era piles and a few 1990s mirrored-glass oddities. It’s well worth a stroll, and in the evening you’ll have plenty of company as locals promenade along the mostly pedestrian Rīgas iela.
The city’s incongruous centrepiece, the Soviet-era modernist Park Hotel Latgola, provides a sweeping 360-degree panorama from its top-floor restaurant and bar – a good place for a local overview.
oDaugavpils FortressFORTRESS
(map Google map; off Daugavpils iela; h24hr) F
This impressive riverside citadel is enjoying an ongoing renovation that’s recreating its historic atmosphere. Look for the restored Nicholas Gate near the excellent Mark Rothko Art Centre. Built on the orders of tsar Alexander I on the eve of the Napoleonic wars, the fortress served as an imperial stronghold during two Polish insurrections in the 19th century and as a home away from home for tsars exploring their realm. It’s a 3km walk northwest of the centre along the river.
Although the architecture is rather utilitarian, you can make out Gothic and Egyptian motives in the decor of its four gates – all named after Russian royals. The fortress itself survived two centuries of wars and revolutions largely intact, but the beautiful 18th-century Jesuit cathedral that stood in the middle was destroyed by WWII bombardment, its ruins later cleared by the Soviets, who instead built a cluster of ugly generic apartment blocks for the military. A plaque outside the main gate states that Tatar poet Musa Jalil languished here from September to October 1942, in what was then the Nazi concentration camp Stalag-340. Inside, a memorial marks the site where local aristocrat Leon Plater was executed by the tsar’s soldiers for leading the Polish revolt in the area in 1863.
Daugavpils Mark Rothko Art CentreARTS CENTRE
(map Google map; %6543 0250; www.rothkocenter.com; Mihaila iela 3; adult/child €8/4; h11am-7pm Wed-Sat, to 5pm Tue & Sun)
The old imperial Russian arsenal inside Daugavpils Fortress is now an excellent contemporary art gallery honouring Daugavpils native Mark Rothko. The permanent collection includes hundreds of works by visiting artists, as well as some Rothko originals and displays about the artist’s work. It also hosts myriad temporary exhibitions.
The 1st floor is dedicated to Rothko, whose surrealist and abstract works led him to stardom in America, where he emigrated at age 10 in 1913 (he died in New York City in 1970). An interactive multimedia exhibition recapping Rothko’s biography and explaining the historical context of his childhood years is followed by a small display of Rothko’s original works representing ‘multiform’, the series that he created in the later period of his life. The 2nd floor is dedicated to contemporary Latvian artists. There is a good cafe situated on-site.
Daugavpils SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(%2954 8760; www.jewishlatgale.lv; Cietokšņa iela 38; €5; hby appointment, Thu-Sun) F
The city’s main synagogue was built in 1850 and beautifully restored in 2005, thanks to the contributions of Mark Rothko’s children. Arrange a visit (by phone or email) with local historian Josifs Ročko, who maintains a small on-site museum about local Jewish history.
Church HillCHRISTIAN SITE
Churches of four main local Christian denominations congregate near each other on a small hill dissected by busy 18 Novembra iela. Lutherans flock into the red-brick neo-Gothic Martin Luther Cathedral (18 Novembra iela 66), while Catholics congregate at pure-white Holy Virgin Cathedral (Andreja Pumpura iela 11a). Both are east of the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Princes Boris & Gleb (Tautas iela 2)
and the gold-domed Old Believer’s Novostroyensky Church of Resurrection, Holy Virgin & St Nikola (Puškina iela 16a).
The first three are open to visitors during business hours. Church Hill is about 2km east of the centre.
Daugavpils Lead Shot FactoryHISTORIC BUILDING
(DSR; %2776 6655; www.dsr.lv; Varšavas ielā 28; tour adult/child €5.50/3.50, admission only €1.50; h10am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, Wed-Sun Sep-May)
As you’ll learn at this tall brick tower built in 1886, ammunition used to require gravity. Molten lead was poured from the top of the tower, and by the time the drops reached the bottom, they solidified into perfectly round balls, ready to be used in guns. You won’t see the actual process, but they’ll turn on century-old machines for you and let you climb the tower. Check English-language tour times. It’s about 2km east of the centre on a hill.
DAUGAVPILS’ LOST JEWISH HERITAGE
A census conducted in 1897 showed that 46% of Daugavpils (then known as Dvinsk) residents were Jews, which made them the largest, if not the most powerful, community. The city was teeming with Jewish-run businesses, as well as cultural, religious and political institutions. In the streets, Yiddish could be heard more often than Russian, Latvian or Polish.
There are only a few hundred Jews left now, and few are descended from the original Jewish inhabitants. When the Nazis seized Daugavpils in 1941, they drove 14,000 local Jews into a ghetto that was located in an outpost of the Rīga Citadel on the far side of the river. Gradually, nearly all these people were executed, or starved and worked to death.
One killing ground, the Railwaymen’s Garden (Preču iela 30a), is just 1.5km southeast of the Daugavpils synagogue, near railway tracks and close to Church Hill. A plaque at the forlorn site notes ‘In July 1941, the Nazis executed here more than 1000 of Daugavpils Jews’. Barely 100 people survived till the Soviet army recaptured the city. The synagogue has a small museum about local Jewish history.
4Sleeping
Staying in the centre allows you to enjoy the local street life.
oMark Rothko Art Centre ResidencesGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %6543 0250; www.rothkocenter.com; Mihaila iela 3; s/d from €30/40; pW)
Here is your chance to spend a real night at the museum. Although intended for resident and visiting artists, rooms at the art centre incorporate architectural details of the historic building. Decor fittingly features primary colours in a stark design. You also get the run of the Daugavpils Fortress. Reserve rooms through www.booking.com.
Homelike HotelHOTEL€€
(%6582 4000; www.homelikehotel.lv; Mihoelsa iela 66; r from €40; paW)
Perfectly located, this small three-storey hotel is in a renovated building just off the main pedestrian street. Rooms are modern, although cynics should note that the walls bear treacly bromides such as ‘Fill a house with love and it becomes a home’. Don’t bother springing for a balcony room: the view is of an alley. Good breakfast included.
Villa KsenijaGUESTHOUSE€€
(%6543 4317; www.villaks.lv; Varšavas iela 17; s/d from €50/58; pW)
Occupying a stately mansion that was built in 1876, this hotel provides a relatively plush, if not very central, option 2km east of the Daugavpils centre. The rooms are comfortable and have period-style furniture, but the garden is the best feature – take breakfast here on a warm day.
Sventes MuižaHOTEL€€
(map; Jaunsvente Manor; %6542 7822; www.sventehotel.lv; Alejas iela 7, Svente; r from €45; 
iW)
Count Michael Plater-Ziberg, a scion of Latgale’s most prominent aristocratic family, had just two years before WWI broke out to enjoy the grand estate house he built for himself 13km west of Daugavpils. It’s now a welcoming countryside hotel with a good restaurant and, slightly off-topic, a museum of WWII vehicles and tanks. The grounds are park-like.
Park Hotel LatgolaHOTEL€€
(%6540 4900; www.hotellatgola.lv; Ģimnāzijas iela 46; r €45-85; paW)
5Eating & Drinking
Try a shot of Latgale’s own liquor, the potent (about 100 proof) šmakovka: it’s clear, but your head won’t be. It’s made locally by enthusiasts who often add their own flavourings to the mix.
oCafe ImbirCAFE€
(%2450 9965; www.facebook.com/pg/kafeimbir; Saules iela 39; mains €3-7; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Resplendent in white, this city-centre cafe has a couple of tables out front on the street. Inside you’ll find excellent coffee, daily specials, light meals and luscious baked goods, plus surprises like board games.
VēsmaPUB FOOD€€
(%2200 9991; Rīgas iela 49; mains €5-12; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
This big cafe offers genuine cafe culture with tables on a wide terrace overlooking the main pedestrian zone. (Or rise above it all on the roof deck.) Dishes span the world, from sushi to pizza, but stick close to home and opt for the Latgale dishes, which are flagged on the menu. There’s a long drinks menu.
GubernatorsRUSSIAN€€
(%6542 2455; www.gubernators.lv; Lāčplēša iela 10; mains €5-9; h11am-midnight)
Sporting rustic decor with a hint of Soviet nostalgia, this cellar restaurant serves Russian pelmeņi dumplings and excellent Russian-style sour vegetable soup (solyanka), plus many more Eastern European favourites, along with its own brand of beer.
Artilērijas PagrabiBAR
(www.facebook.com/ArtilerijasPagrabi; Rīgas iela 22; hfrom 7pm Wed-Sun)
This easy-going subterranean place sees itself as something of a Latvian cultural bastion in the east, its fire power generated by great local beer and regular live gigs featuring bands (mostly rock) from Latvia and lands beyond the frontier. The burgers are popular.
8Information
Tourist Office (www.visitdaugavpils.lv; Rīgas iela 22a; h10am-6pm daily Apr-Sep, closed Sun Oct-Mar) Well stocked with information detailing sights and activities across Latgale.
8Getting There & Away
Train services from the train station (Stacijas iela 44), at the east end of Rīgas iela, include Rīga (€7, 3½ hours, three daily) and Minsk in Belarus (€31, nine hours, three weekly). There is a handy weekends-only service twice a day to Vilnius (€9, 2¾ hours).
From the centrally located bus station (%6542 3000; www.buspark.lv; Viestura iela 10), buses run to/from Rīga (€9, 3½ hours, hourly) and Rēzekne (€4, 1½ to two hours, six daily), as well as Vilnius in Lithuania (€13, 3½ hours, two daily).
Around Daugavpils
The gently rolling hills around Daugavpils are threaded with rivers connecting some pastoral lakes. Atmospheric tiny hamlets seem unchanged in decades. Population loss means you’ll see plenty of old abandoned farms and often have the roads to yourself.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ON HOME SOIL
Latvians remain attached to their land to a great extent. And not just any land, but particular farmsteads owned by their parental families. Many urbanites still have relatives running a farm, which often comes with fruit gardens, a large chunk of forest and a lake. Summer months are spent in the countryside with their grandparents, aunts and uncles. This ongoing attachment can be explained by the fact that cities and towns were for centuries run by conquerors – Germans, Russians or Swedes.
The en-masse migration of ethnic Latvians into urbanised areas only began in the 19th century. However, the situation in the countryside became chaotic beginning with WWII and continued with the later collectivisation of farms and the forced migration of thousands of farming families to Siberia. Since 1991 there have been extraordinary efforts made to sort out land claims and return farms to their original families. The process has been fraught for myriad reasons, one of which is that farms are uneconomic: you’ll see many abandoned farmhouses as you drive around rural Latvia.
American writer Inara Verzemnieks writes movingly about her family’s struggles to come to terms with their recent past and ties to a eastern Latvian farm in Among the Living and the Dead: A Tale of Exile and Homecoming on the War Roads of Europe.
If you want to learn more about traditional rural life, head to Andrupene Farmstead Museum (map; %2645 8876; laukuseta@inbox.lv; Skolas iela 5, Andrupene; adult/child €3/1; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), which occupies a farm that remains unaltered since the 1920s, when many Latvians received generous chunks of land in the agrarian reform. Contact them in advance to arrange a traditional Latgale dinner served with traditional bread they bake on the spot.
The village of Andrupene is located 30km east of Aglona, near Dadga. You’ll need your own wheels to get there.
Slutišķi
POP 100
Sitting on the bank of the Daugava, this bucolic hamlet of log cabins has a lovely riverfront setting and is populated by Russian Old Believers. It served as an unlikely catalyst of Latvia’s Third Atmoda (National Awakening), which led to the restoration of independence in 1991. A newspaper article criticising the Soviet government’s plan to build a hydropower station and flood Slutišķi generated public outcry that turned its author, Dainis Īvans, into an instant hero. Soon he was the leader of Latvian Popular Front, a movement that made the liberation happen.
Slutišķi is surrounded by Daugavas Loki nature park, which protects a particularly beautiful stretch of the gracefully bending Daugava. One of the scattered farms has been transformed into the Slutišķi Old-believers’ Farmstead (map; %2653 2508; http://naujenesmuzejs.lv; Slutišķi; adult/child €1.50/1; h10am-7pm Wed-Sun May-Sep, 8am-5pm Tue-Fri Oct-Apr), which details local life dating back to the 1700s. Outside the fir-log building are exhibits about local farming and good signboards detailing local life. Nearby is a picnic area as well as riverside trails.
8Getting There & Away
Slutišķi is located near the village of Markova, 28km east of Daugavpils on the A6 to Krāslava. The turn is well signposted. It’s about 800m to the parking area in the park. The village is then about a 500m walk. The route is good for bikes.
Krāslava
POP 7900
Just 6km north of the Belarus border, sleepy Krāslava is a picturesque town of wooden houses set amid the green hills embracing the Daugava. A former domain of the Polish Plater family, Krāslava has always been an intriguing multicultural melting pot. Its coat of arms displays five oars symbolising five local communities: Poles, Latvians, Belarusians, Russians and Jews. The latter used to be the largest group, but virtually all of them perished in the Holocaust.
The small town centre, down the hill from the castle, has a couple of modest cafes.
Krāslava CastleMUSEUM
(%6562 3586; Pils iela; adult/child €2/1; hgrounds 24hr, museum 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Occupying a key vantage point, Krāslava’s ‘castle’ is really a modest manor house. Its historic interior is closed to visitors, but the floral-scented grounds are pretty and good for strolling. Part of the complex, the small History and Art Museum has displays outside showing pictures of local life since the 1850s. A nearby tourist information office (www.visitkraslava.com) sells local crafts.
Klajumi StablesHORSEBACK RIDING
(map; %2947 2638; www.klajumi.lv; 2-/4-/7-day tours €125/310/585, 1hr ride €20)
Ilze, the owner of Klajumi Stables, comes from an equestrian family and offers a variety of activities from multiday riding tours to short countryside jaunts. The adorable, large guest cottages (from €50) look like gingerbread houses and have beautiful, rural settings. One comes with a sauna (that doubles as a shower), a kitchenette and a loft bedroom with satellite TV. Toilets are located in outdoor huts. The stables are 8km southwest of Krāslava, near Kaplava.
8Getting There & Away
Krāslava is on the road leading from Daugavpils to Vitsebsk in Belarus. Buses for Daugavpils are hourly (€2.35, one hour). There are two morning buses a day to Aglona (€2, one hour).
Aglona
POP 870
Teeny Aglona, sitting on an isthmus between two large placid lakes, is one of the most visited towns in all of Latvia. But that only becomes apparent for a few days around 15 August, when thousands of Catholic pilgrims from across Eastern Europe arrive to celebrate Assumption Day in the town’s basilica. At other times, Aglona is a quiet village with a good bakery/museum and houses noted for their lush vegetable and flower gardens.
1Sights
Aglona BasilicaCHURCH
(map; %6538 1109; www.aglonasbazilika.lv; Ciriša iela 8; h7am-8pm)
More than 300 years ago, a group of wandering Dominican monks discovered a healing source hidden among a thicket of spruce trees (‘Aglona’ means ‘spruce tree’ in an old dialect). It became a place of pilgrimage and, although the sulphur fount lost its apparent power a century later, the water from the source is still regarded as a product of divine intervention and is used in rituals. On Assumption Day, enormous numbers of Catholic pilgrims celebrate mass here.
Today’s basilica is a twin-towered whitewashed cathedral standing in a vast grass courtyard, created for Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1993 to bestow the title of Basilica Minoris (Small Basilica) upon the holy grounds. One of the basilica’s 10 altars guards a sacred icon of the Virgin Mary, said to have saved Aglona from the plague in 1708. Mass is held at 7am, noon and 7pm Monday to Saturday and at 10am, noon and 7pm on Sunday. Rosary is held at 11am Monday to Saturday and at 9am on Sunday.
Bread MuseumMUSEUM
(map; Aglonas maizes muzejs; %2928 7044; Daugavpils iela 7; adult/child €4/2; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun)
Learn about the history and traditions surrounding traditional Latgalian dark rye bread, a local staple, and try your hand at milling grain and baking. Little English is spoken, so call ahead to arrange a complimentary translator. Even if you don’t have time for the one-hour presentation, be sure to buy a fresher-than-fresh loaf of gorgeous bread still warm from the large oven. Peek through the window into the kitchen to watch the bakers hard at work.
4Sleeping
Aglonas CakuliGUESTHOUSE€
(map; %2933 3422; http://aglonascakuli.lv; Ezera iela 4; r with/without bathroom from €40/35; W)
Near the bread museum in town, this comfy family-run guesthouse is right on Lake Cirišs. It has eight rooms, a playground for kids and a sauna. You can arrange for a boat on the lake as well as meals. They also rent lakeside cottages near the basilica.
8Getting There & Around
Aglona is 9km off the main road between Daugavpils and Rēzekne (Rte A13). There are two buses a day to/from Daugavpils (€3, one hour) and two to Krāslava (€2, one hour). For Rēzekne and Rīga, change at Preiļi (€1.50, 35 minutes, seven daily).
Rēzekne
POP 28,100
Rēzekne furtively pokes its head up from a giant muddle of derelict factories and generic block housing. The town took a heavy beating during WWII, when most of its historic buildings were pulverised by artillery fire. It’s worth a stop, however, for some historic sights and good places to eat and drink. Frequent trains and buses also make it a convenient jumping-off point to explore the quiet lakeland further south.
1Sights
GorsCULTURAL CENTRE
(%6463 3303; http://latgalesgors.lv; Pils iela 4; hhours vary)
An elegant and modern addition to the middle of town, Gors is a large cultural centre. Art exhibitions, cultural displays, concerts, films, poetic readings – you name it – take place regularly.
Green SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(%2659 5017; http://sinagoga.lv; Krāslavas iela 5; donations accepted; h10am-3pm Wed & Sat)
Close to Latgales iela and the old Jewish quarter, this 1845 synagogue is indeed green. Restored inside and out to past wooden glory, there are displays about local Jewish culture through the centuries and the stolid wooden architecture popular throughout Latgale. There’s a good cafe across the street.
MāraMONUMENT
(Atbrīvošanas aleja 93)
In the middle of the town’s square stands Māra, a statue twice destroyed by the Soviet authorities in the 1940s and only re-erected in 1992. Its inscription ‘Vienoti Latvijai’ means ‘United Latvia’.
Latgales ielaSTREET
(Latgales iela)
The town’s oldest street is lined with dozens of charming brick facades constructed by wealthy Yiddish merchants several hundred years ago.
4Sleeping
KolonnaHOTEL€€
(%6460 7820; www.hotelkolonna.com; Brīvības iela 2; r from €54; pW)
This corporate-style hotel has 41 comfortable rooms in a stately art deco building in the centre, near Latgales iela. The attached Rozalija restaurant serves European standards as well as Latgale specialities. It has a fine patio.
5Eating & Drinking
Ausmeņa KebabsMIDDLE EASTERN€
(%2011 2200; Rancāna iela 41; mains €3-5; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
It’s hard to explain how a kebab shop could have grown into a local institution known for its bohemian drinks and fervent pro-Latvian spirit, but there you are. Turkish-style kebabs come in their pita-wrapped takeaway forms, as well as served on a plate with chips. It’s one street northeast of the central square and has a large, covered terrace.
Marijas CafeLATVIAN€€
(%2651 4420; Atbrīvošanas aleja 88; mains €5-17; h11am-11pm)
The best restaurant in town is just south of the central square and back off the main drag. There’s a casual cafe menu as well as more substantial meals such as steaks, pasta and a long list of Latvian and local faves. The bar area and dining room have arched brick and stone walls. Outside there’s a sunny terrace. Service is smooth.
Fresh TeraseBEER GARDEN
(%2065 5740; www.facebook.com/freshterase; Atbrīvošanas aleja 142; mains €4-8; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat & Sun)
A real beer garden! Enjoy excellent local brews under fruit trees laden with apples at this popular spot at the north end of town. The menu includes grilled meats, snacks and sandwiches.
8Information
Tourist Information Centre (%6460 7609; www.rezekne.lv; Krasta iela 31, Zeimuļs Creative Centre; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) An excellent tourist office located in the new Zeimuļs Creative Centre, a striking modern structure just across from the remains (think piles of stones) of Rēzekne Castle. There is a good cafe in the complex as well as an observation deck with sweeping views of Latgale.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (Latgales iela 17) has services to/from Daugavpils (€4, 1½ to two hours, six daily) and Rīga (€10, four to 4½ hours, six daily), among other destinations.
Rēzekne II train station (Stacijas iela) has services to Rīga (€7, 3½ hours, two daily).
Exploring the region around Rēzekne will mostly require your own wheels.
Around Rēzekne
The thinly populated lands around Rēzekne include dozens of lakes, including two large ones: Lakes Rāzna and Lubāns. Both offer water sports and idyllic rural retreats amidst the green countryside. The former is also the centrepiece of one of Latvia’s four national parks. You’ll want your own wheels to explore the lakes.
Lake Rāzna
Rāzna National Park was established in 2007 to protect the blue waters of Lake Rāzna, Latvia’s second-largest lake. Still mostly undeveloped, the park is a quiet preserve protecting roughly 530 sq km of verdant lakelands. Infrastructure like visitor centres and hiking trails remain in the future, although there is a designated cycling route fully encircling the lake. Discovering a few quiet beaches on a bike ride is an ideal way to spend a day, although you’ll need to bring your own bike.
The small old fishermen’s villages around Lake Rāzna were founded by Russian Old Believers, who gave them Slavic-sounding names.
Buru GuruBOATING
(map; %2983 3890; http://buruguru.lv; Dukstigala Bay, Čornaja, off P55; sailing tour for up to 20 people €180, sleeping per night €100)
Join Captain Andris Strutskis for a lake voyage on his ocean-going sailing boat Sea Esta. Unless you travel in a large group, it makes sense to enquire in advance about the possibility of sharing the sailing tour price with other travellers. The boat is also available as a romantic floating hotel.
EzerkrastiGUESTHOUSE€
(map; %2641 1207; www.raznasezerkrasti.lv; Dukstigals, Tilīši, Čornajas pagasts, off P55; per person from €30; W)
At the mouth of Dukstigals Bay, you’ll find Ezerkrasti Resort: this lush green property dotted with charming wooden cottages in a variety of shapes and sizes offers volleyball, paddleboats, a lake for swimming, and an indoor pool and sauna. It’s 20km southeast of Rēzekne.
Lake Lubāns
Latvia’s largest lake is very shallow, its shores covered in reeds and encircled by a fir tree forest so dark and wild you can shoot films about Siberia here. Around 180 species of birds, including swans and eagles, nest here and there are several watchtowers in the area for spotting.
Three kilometres south of the tiny village of Īdeņa, look for the Teirumnīku Swamp Trail. It runs for 800m into pristine wetlands near the lake.
Baka Water Tourism CentreWATER SPORTS
(%2666 3358; https://baka.rezeknesnovads.lv; Kvāpāni; kayak or bicycle rental per hour €6; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun May-Sep)
This striking water-sports centre with a lighthouse motif is on a very quiet bit of Lake Lubāns. The three-storey building anchors a range of activities that include SUP, kayaks, waterskiing and more, or you can rent a bike and try the new waterside cycling route. Ask about renting a room looking over a sea of reeds (from €60). It’s 43km northwest of Rēzekne.
ZvejniekiGUESTHOUSE€
(%2830 1143; www.zvejnieki.lv; Īdeņa, Nagļi pagasts; dm from €8, 8-person cottage €64)
Offers beds in atmospheric wooden houses scattered around its property. Excellent Latgale meals made with produce from the garden and lake fish (smoked or fresh) can be arranged in advance. Also, ask about a whole range of available activities, including fishing, birdwatching and guided nature hikes, when you book. It’s 40km northwest of Rēzekne on an isthmus in the lake.
House StikāniGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; %2867 1971; ilze@dabastures.lv; Bernāni, Rēzeknes novads; r from €50)
Century-old apple trees shade this vintage wooden house in the village of Bernāni in a remote corner of Lake Lubāns. Bird-spotters and nature hikers will revel in the quiet beauty. There are four basic rooms and meals are available. It’s 38km northwest of Rēzeknes.
Ludza
POP 8000
Little Ludza, just a hop from the Russian border, was founded in 1177, making it the oldest town in Latvia. Located at the junction of two lakes (known as Big Ludza Lake and Little Ludza Lake), the small village and trading post grew around a 14th-century castle. Today Ludza feels like a frontier post, with quiet streets at the tail end of the country. You can’t get closer to rural life than here.
Ludza Craftsmen CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(map; %2946 7925; www.ludzasamatnieki.lv; Tālavijas iela 27a; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2.30pm Sat)
This centre in an old brick and wood building set back from the street features a great array of locally made handicrafts, including beautiful wool garments and gloves. The centre has three attached workshops in which local artisans perfect their trade. If you ring ahead, you too can try your hand at time-honoured methods of wool spinning, pottery making and sewing. There’s a collection of old tools to peruse and a traditional Latgalian costume to try on for picture taking.
Ludza CastleRUINS
(map; Lielā Ezerkrasta iela 19)
Built by German crusaders in 1399 to protect the eastern front of the Livonian Order, the castle has been in ruins since 1775. Today the melange of crumbling crimson brick and smoky grey boulders is both haunting and beautiful, and makes a great place for a picnic overlooking the church spires and rivulets down the hill. Nearby are the twin towers of the reconstructed Church of the Assumption.
Café KristīneCAFE€
(map; %6578 1326; Baznīcas iela 25; mains €4-7; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
This old-fashioned cafe serves Latvian favourites (get your grey peas here!) made from local produce. Try a local speciality such as gulbeŝnīki (stuffed potato dumplings). The coffee is good and there are sunny tables outside on the small square.
8Getting There & Away
Ludza is located 26km east of Rēzekne along Rte A12 as it makes its way into Russia. Buses to Rēzekne (€1.70, 40 minutes) run through the day; some continue to Daugavpils.
Understand Latvia
Latvia Today
The legacy of Latvia’s history is inescapable today. The small nation remains haunted by the series of invasions and occupations around WWII, when the population was decimated by war, the Holocaust, people fleeing as refugees and forced deportations. Five decades of stagnation during the Soviet occupation have not been fully reversed in the almost 30 years later. Travel down any street in the country outside the very core of Rīga and you’ll still see one decayed building after another.
Adding to the uncertainty is the ever-present fear of Russia’s intentions. Despite membership in the EU and NATO, people remember the two occupations in the last 80 years. The narrow gap between Belarus and Kaliningrad along the Polish–Lithuanian border looks very small and very far away at times.
Even as Rīga exudes energy from new business ventures and a thriving creative community, the nation’s overall population continues to decline. The population loss of 1% a year is the second highest in the EU after Bulgaria. Young people, well versed in English in Latvia’s public schools, leave for seemingly brighter futures elsewhere in the EU.
Many are looking forward to the Rail Baltica project, which will link the Baltic nations by high-speed rail to Poland and Western Europe, lessening their isolation, both perceived and real. If nothing else, closer integration with Europe could allow more people to discover Rīga’s beauty, the lush countryside and the fantastical coastline and beaches.
GREY SKIES ARE GONNA CLEAR UP…
Since 1991, Latvia’s environmental climate has improved by leaps and bounds, largely due to tax reforms, an infusion of EU and private money, and the collapse of Soviet-era heavy industry. More than 1300 wastewater treatment plants have been built, which has increased the purity of river waters – the Daugava and Lielupe Rivers are now deemed ‘good-quality’.
Latvia’s water and sewage reforms are restoring the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Rīga to their former swimmable state. The European Blue Flag water safety and purity ranking (with its rigorous criteria) has been awarded to over 20 beaches, including ones at Jūrmala, Ventspils, Liepāja, Saulkrasti and Rīga.
Stringent rules, both EU and Latvian, regulate auto and truck emissions, pesticide and fertiliser use on farms and myriad other polluting practices.
History
The Beginning
The first signs of modern humans in the region date back to the Stone Age, although Latvians descended from tribes that migrated north from around Belarus and settled on the territory of modern Latvia around 2000 BC. These tribes settled in coastal areas to fish and take advantage of rich deposits of amber, which was more precious than gold in many places until the Middle Ages.
Eventually, four main Baltic tribes evolved: the Selonians, the Letts (or Latgals), the Semigallians and the Cours. From the latter three the names of three of Latvia’s four principal regions are derived: Latgale, Zemgale and Kurzeme. The fourth region, Vidzeme (Livland), derived its name from the Livs, a Finno-Ugric people unrelated to the Balts.
During succeeding centuries of foreign rule these tribes merged into one Latvian identity. They were pagan until the 13th century, when German knights forced them into the Christian fold with sword and fire. But pagan traditions have lingered up until the present day, with Midsummer celebrated as the most important national holiday.
Christianity
Arriving in Latvia in 1190, the first Christian missionaries tried to persuade the pagan population to convert. It was an uphill battle: as soon as the missionaries left, the new converts jumped into the river to wash off their baptism. In subsequent years more missionaries would arrive, and more Latvians would submit and then renounce Christianity.
In 1201, at the behest of the pope, German crusaders, led by Bishop von Buxhoevden of Bremen, conquered Latvia and founded Rīga. Von Buxhoevden also founded the Knights of the Sword, who made Rīga their base for subjugating Livonia. Colonists from northern Germany followed, and during the first period of German rule, Rīga became the major city in the German Baltic, thriving from trade between Russia and the West and joining the Hanseatic League (a medieval merchant guild) in 1282. Furs, hides, honey and wax were among the products sold westward from Russia through Rīga. Indigenous Baltic inhabitants were sidelined from the regional politics and urbanisation.
Power struggles between the Church, knights and city authorities dominated the country’s history between 1253 and 1420. Rīga’s bishop, elevated to archbishop in 1252, became the leader of the Church in the German-conquered lands, ruling a good slice of Livonia directly and further areas of Livonia and Estonia indirectly through his bishops. The Church clashed constantly with knights, who controlled most of the remainder of Livonia and Estonia, and with German merchant-dominated city authorities who managed to maintain a degree of independence during this period.
Sweden, Poland & Russia
The 15th, 16th and 17th centuries were marked with battles and disputes about how to divvy up what would one day become Latvia. The land was at the crossroads of several encroaching empires and everyone wanted to secure the area as a means of gaining a strategic upper hand. It was at this time that Martin Luther posted his theses and Lutheran ideals flooded east. Rīga quickly became a centre for the Reformation and merchant elites adopted the doctrine. Fervent religious movements spawned the emergence of written Latvian.
Western Latvia grew in influence and power under the Duchy of Courland, a semiautonomous kingdom governed by the capable Duke Kettler, who established far-flung colonies in the Gambia and on Tobago. At this time, southeastern Latvia was grabbed by Poland, and Sweden took Rīga and the northeast. The Russians barged in at the end of the 1620s and gobbled everything up during the Great Northern War (1700–21).
National Awakening
The idea of a cohesive national identity began around the 17th century, when the peasant descendants of the original tribes started to unite under the name ‘Latvia’. By the mid-19th century, the sentiment grew stronger as the first newspapers printed their issues in Latvian and the first Song and Dance Festival started up. Farmers flocked to the big city and demanded equal rights. Political parties emerged to organise worker strikes to oust the remaining German aristocracy. Democratic leaders would later call this push for freedom the ‘Latvian Revolution’.
A Taste of Freedom
Out of the post-WWI confusion and turmoil arose an independent Latvian state, declared on 18 November 1918. By the 1930s Latvia had achieved one of the highest standards of living in all of Europe. In 1934 a bloodless coup, led by Kārlis Ulmanis, Latvia’s first president, ended the power of parliament. Installing himself as dictator, Ulmanis ruled with a certain benevolence that didn’t tolerate extremists from the left or right.
The Soviets were the first to recognise Latvia’s independence, but the honeymoon didn’t last long. Soviet occupation began in 1939 with the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. Nationalisation, killings and mass deportations to Siberia followed. In July 1941, Latvia was occupied by Nazi Germany, which proceeded to kill or deport an estimated 175,000 Latvians, mostly Jews, by 1945.
Soviet Rule
When WWII ended the Soviets marched back in, claiming to ‘save’ Latvia from the Nazis. A series of deportations (over 40,000 people) began anew as the nation was forced to adapt to communist ideologies. Smoke-spewing factories were swiftly erected and farms were collectivised. Thousands fled to the West. Notions of individuality were stripped away as country cottages and cosmopolitan urban buildings were ‘nationalised’, forcing everyone into drab apartment blocks.
The first public protest against Soviet occupation was on 14 June 1987, when 5000 people rallied at Rīga’s Freedom Monument to commemorate the 1941 Siberia deportations. New political organisations emerged in the summer of 1988. The Popular Front of Latvia (PLF) quickly rose to the forefront of the Latvian political scene. Less than two months later, on 23 August 1989, two million Latvians, Lithuanians and Estonians formed a 650km human chain from Vilnius, through Rīga, to Tallinn, to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. This iconic moment continues to be celebrated worldwide.
In early 1991, a series of stand-offs between tens of thousands of Latvians in Rīga and Soviet forces culminated in several killings. Locals had banded together to build barricades around key civic institutions to prevent the Soviets from seizing control. The resulting violence left scars that are still part of the Latvian psyche today.
Independence
When Russian democratic forces led by Boris Yeltsin came out as winners in a stand-off, known as the August Coup, Latvia was finally free to go its own way. The country declared independence on 21 August 1991, and on 17 September 1991 Latvia, along with Estonia and Lithuania, joined the UN and began taking steps to consolidate its newfound nationhood. Democratic elections were held in 1993 and the new government, headed by Guntis Ulmanis (a farmer and descendant of Kārlis Ulmanis), lurched from crisis to crisis, while a game of prime minister roulette followed the devastating crash of the country’s largest commercial bank.
In 1999 Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga, a Latvian by birth but who spent most of her life in Canada, won the presidential election with her promise of propelling the country towards EU membership. It was a tough uphill battle as the nation shook off its antiquated Soviet fetters, and on 1 May 2004 the EU opened its doors to the fledgling nation. Latvia also joined NATO that year, which has irritated Russia ever since.
Long the Baltic laggard (and the poorest country in the EU), Latvia registered the highest economic growth in the EU in 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007, even though thousands of Latvians left for jobs in Ireland and elsewhere. However, the global economic crisis that swept across the world at the end of 2008 caused a brutal recession in Latvia, as much of the nation’s spectacular economic growth turned out to be illusionary. The subsequent years were spent clearing the rubble caused by the economic collapse.
Now on a course of moderate economic growth, Latvia steers a centrist course with turns to the left and right via coalition governments cobbled together from myriad political parties. Though the Greens were ascendant in the mid-2010s, following the 2018 elections, power shifted to the centre-right.
The People
Don’t expect cheery hellos from strangers, but under the reticence, Latvians are a friendly and welcoming bunch. The guardedness in the culture is a response to centuries of foreign rule and has helped preserve the unique Latvian language and culture through changing times. Any lingering provincialism is fading, especially in Rīga. English is taught at every level and during every year of school. More and more people under the age of 50 have worked for at least a spell abroad.
About two-thirds of the population is ethnically Latvian, the highest since the 1930s. Ethnic Russians comprise about 25% and mostly live in and around Rīga.
Latvian women were traditionally responsible for preserving the hearth and home by passing on traditional songs, recipes, legends and tales. The men, enriched by these closely kept customs, would guard the land. Today, women remain a strong presence in the household but also have a prominent role in politics and business. Almost one-third of parliament is female (higher than the EU average) and Latvia’s most noted president was Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga. In business, more than half of Latvian companies with 10 or more employees are run by women.
Latvians generally adore nature and continue to incorporate their ancient pagan traditions and customs into everyday life, despite being members of the Lutheran Church (ethnic Russians are mainly Orthodox or Old Believers). Superstitious beliefs are quite common and often linked to the wildlife that shares the land. In rural Latvia, families place tall wooden poles in their yard to attract nest-building storks, which are believed to bring children. Latvians also love flowers; if you go to a birthday party or are invited into someone’s home, always bring a bouquet (but make sure it’s an odd number of flowers – even numbers are reserved for funerals).
ONLINE RESOURCES
1188 (www.1188.lv) An excellent resource with comprehensive info on transport, business listings, accommodation, dining, traffic reports, taxis and much more.
Magnetic Latvia (www.latvia.travel) National tourism website.
Latvia Institute (www.li.lv) Provides details on events plus high-level information targeted at foreign visitors.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/latvia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
lsm.lv (https://eng.lsm.lv) Latvia’s public broadcasters offer news and weather in English.
The Arts
Cinema
The Fisherman’s Son (Zvejnieka dēls), made in 1940, marked both the beginning and the end of an era in Latvian filmmaking. It was the nation’s first full-length sound film, but it was one of the last major works before WWII and the subsequent years of oppression. At the beginning of the USSR period, the state-owned Rīga Documentary Film Studio created heaps of movies, mostly laden with propaganda. After Stalin’s death in 1953, directors earned more freedom, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that pastiche and parody became commonplace. Most of the films up until then were adaptations of famous Latvian legends and modern novels.
Latvian director Jānis Streičs has produced a number of films pertinent to Latvia’s turbulent past. Limousine in the Colour of Summer Solstice Night (1981) and The Child of Man (1991) remain popular for their blend of irony and comedy. The latter, about a boy growing up and falling in love in Soviet-occupied Latvia, won the Grand Prix at San Remo in 1992 and was nominated for an Academy Award for best foreign film in 1994. Streičs’ more recent film, The Mystery of the Old Parish Church (2000), addresses the prickly issue of locals collaborating with Nazi and Soviet occupiers during WWII.
At the end of the Soviet era, the long-form documentary film Is it Easy to be Young? by Juris Podnieks became one of the cultural icons of the Soviet perestroika period. In 2010 Antra Cilińska shot a film featuring Is it Easy to be Young? characters, now in their 40s, recapping two decades of their lives after the collapse of the USSR.
Also worth noting is Laila Pakalnina, whose 1998 feature film The Shoe, about occupied Latvia, was an official selection at the Cannes 1998 film festival. Pakalnina’s 1996 film The Mail shows the isolation of Latvia, as symbolised by the lonely delivery of the morning mail.
Latvia’s tortured past continues to inspire filmmakers today. The harrowing life of Melānija Vanaga, who was deported by the Soviets along with thousands of others to slave camps in Siberia in 1941, is the basis for Viestur Kairish’s The Chronicles of Melanie (2016). It’s available on streaming services. Dāvis Sīmanis dramatised the incredible efforts by Rīga’s Zanis Lipke and his family to save Jews from the Nazis in 2018’s The Mover.
Latvian Song & Dance
Traditional folk songs have always played an integral role in Latvian culture, although the recognition of music as an established art form did not come about until the mid-19th century. In 1869 Jānis Cimze started cataloguing folk tunes, some dating back 1000 years, and his collection of 20,000 melodies became the basis for Latvia’s first song festival, where thousands of singers joined together in huge choirs to celebrate traditional folk music. During the Soviet occupation the song festivals were pivotal in forging a strong sense of national identity and pride, and became part of the battle cry that rallied Latvians to fight for independence.
The Unesco-recognised Latvian Song and Dance Festival is held in Rīga every five years (the next one is in 2023) and is a week-long celebration of the nation’s cultural soul. However, you need not wait till then, as there are an ever-growing number of music festivals all year long. At even the smallest of festivals, expect to see young and old Latvians grow misty eyed as they sing along with folk favourites.
The National Opera is the home of the Rīga Ballet, which produced Mikhail Baryshnikov and Alexander Godunov during the Soviet years. The opera itself is considered to be one of the finest in Europe and cheap seats have made it accessible to the public, who regard the theatre with the utmost respect.
Latvia struck it big at the Eurovision contest in 2002 when Marie N (Marija Naumova) took home the grand prize. The tiny nation has finished in the top 10 an impressive 10 times since 2000. Instrumenti are a popular and witty electronic music duo that have performed worldwide.
Art & Architecture
Of Latvia’s spectrum of visual arts, visitors will be most awestruck by the collection of art nouveau architecture in Rīga. The capital has more Jugendstil (the German word favoured locally) buildings than any other European city – 750 buildings and counting (as renovations continue).
Jānis Rozentāls, Latvia’s first major painter, lived in Rīga’s art nouveau district and his former home has since been transformed into a museum. The abstract expressionist, Daugavpils-born Mark Rothko, was arguably the most famous Latvian artist around the world. Although he grew up in the USA, interest in the artist and his oeuvre are celebrated in his hometown, including at an eponymous cultural centre.
For other Latvian painters, check out the collection of the Latvian National Museum of Art, which includes the strange mesmerising snow and ice landscapes by its first director Vilhelms Purvitis and lush expressionist works by Ludolfs Liberts. Also look out for the works of Miervaldis Polis, who was a leading nonconformist underground artist in the Soviet era, but more recently earned a reputation as a ‘court artist’ by painting postindependence Latvian leaders.
TOP MUSIC FESTIVALS
Latvians love their summer music festivals. Many take place under the long twilight and starry nights in beautiful natural settings. Among the more notable are the following:
Ezera Skaņas (Lake Sounds; www.ezeraskanas.lv; off P81, Kāla Ezers) It’s the Baltic Burning Man! Latvia’s most unusual – and ethereal – music festival takes place at dawn on one summer morning each August. Ticket-holders gather on boats and along the shores of Kāla Ezers, a remote lake in the countryside 130km east of Rīga. As light breaks at about 4am, performers begin singing and playing from rafts on the water. It’s as magical as it is unusual. Buy tickets well in advance.
Positivus One of Latvia’s largest music festivals, Positivus draws big names performing a range of styles, from folk to funk. It’s held over three days in a pine forest near the beach north of Salacgrīva, close to the Estonian border.
Summer Sound Rock, hip-hop and electronic music reverberate off the dunes at this big two-day festival at Liepāja’s beach in western Latvia.
Not to be outdone by the hinterlands, Rīga has appealing music festivals over the course of the year.
Food & Drink
Traditional food in Latvia is very hearty. For centuries, eating was a utilitarian task rather than an art and a pleasure. But times have changed, especially in Rīga. Latvia is a major food producer, from berries to bread, pickles to mushrooms, and pork to silky smoked fish. From bounteous markets to a new crop of creative eateries helmed by creative cooks, look for fresh and interesting fare.
Favourite Foods
A walk through a Latvian market, such as Rīga’s Central Market, will quickly reveal Latvia’s bounty of local foods. In season discover mountains of berries, apples, rhubarb and other produce. Throughout the year smoked fish (herring, pike, trout or salmon) are a treasure and the great variety available fills display cases. Top dairy products include biezpiens (cottage cheese), siers (a cheddery cheese) and rūgušpiens (curdled milk).
Mushroom-picking is a national obsession. There are over 300 edible varieties found in Latvia’s sprawling forests, and in the countryside you’ll see people out and about with plastic buckets foraging. Pickled foods are a staple and who makes the best fresh cucumbers pickled with garlic and dill is much debated. Latvians are intrepid beekeepers and many farms have beehives and honey-production facilities.
No visit to Latvia is complete without eating plenty of the national staple, rye bread (rupjmaize). The huge, dark-brown crusted loaves come in myriad variations, many with whole grains such as barley and wheat. On cold days, a slice of bread and bowl of hearty grey peas stewed with pork and onions (which is so much better than it sounds) is a ticket to inner warmth and contentment.
For sweets: berries and rhubarb are turned into scrumptious fruit pies and kūka (tarts). Ancient Cour Viking dessert recipes made from sweet creams and dark breads can still be found in western Latvia. Be sure to try rupjmaizes kārojums/kārtojums, which tastes like Black Forest cake. Locally beloved Laima-brand chocolates are cheap and tasty.
EAT YOUR WORDS
These days, most restaurants have English menus, but why not impress your server and order your savoury sausage in Latvian? Start with these basic phrases and names.
| Useful Phrases | ||
|---|---|---|
| A table for … people, please. | Lūdzu galdu … personām. | loo-dzu gahl-du …per-so-nahm |
| Do you have a menu? | Vai jums ir ēdienkarte? | vai yums ir eh-dean-kar-te |
| I’m a vegetarian. | Es esmu veģetārietis/te. (m/f) | es es-mu ve-gye-tah-reah-tis/te |
| What do you recommend? | Ko jūs iesakat? | kwo yoos eah-sah-kut |
| I’d like … | Es vēlos … | es vaa-lwos … |
| The bill, please. | Lūdzu rēķinu. | loo-dzu reh-kyi-nu |
| Food Glossary | ||
|---|---|---|
| beefsteak with fried onions | sīpolu sitenis | see-po-luh see-ten-ees |
| beetroot soup (similar to borscht) | biešu zupa | bee-eh-shu zoo-pa |
| diced vegetable salad in sour cream and mayonnaise | dārzeņu salāti | dar-zen sa-la-tee |
| dumplings | pelmeņi | pell-me-nee |
| fish soup | zivju zupa | zeev-yoo zoo-pah |
| fresh grated cabbage | kāpostu salāti | kah-post sa-la-tee |
| fried pork chop with potatoes and pickled and fresh vegetables | karbonāde ar piedevām | kar-bo-nah-deh ar pee-eh-dev-am |
| fried salmon with potatoes and pickled and fresh vegetables | cepts lasis ar piedevām | tsepts lah-sees ar pee-eh-dev-am |
| grey peas with pork and onions | pelēkie zirņi ar speķi | peh-leh-kee-eh zeer-nee ar speh-kyi |
| hunter’s sausages (pork) | mednieku desiņas | med-nye-kuh deh-see-nyas |
| meatballs | kotletes | kot-leh-tess |
| pickled herring with sour cream, egg and beetroot | siļķe kažokā | seel-kye kah-djo-kah |
| salmon in cream sauce | lasis krējuma mērcē | lah-sis kreh-ma mehr-tse |
| salmon in mushroom and dill sauce | lasis sēņu un diļļu mērcē | lah-sis seh-nyu oon di-lyu mehr-tse |
| sausage (usually smoked) | desa | deh-sa |
Top Tipples
Latvia’s famous Black Balzām – an insidious jet-black, 90-proof liquor flavoured with some 24 fairy-tale ingredients (such as linden flower and Peruvian balsamic oil) – should be tried at least once.
Latvia has a long brewing tradition, in no small part due to its centuries of German influence. Two popular local brewers of lager are Aldaris and Bauskas Alus. Craft brewers are proliferating. Top choices to look for include Ārpus, Barda, Labietis, Malduguns and Valmeira’s own Valmiermuiža.
Rīga has several excellent bars and brewpubs specialising in local craft beers. Elsewhere most bars will have at least a couple of interesting local brews in addition to bland international brands.
DO IT YOURSELF: BLACK BALZāM COCKTAILS
The trademarked clay bottle of Black Balzām makes a fine gift and conversation starter – especially once tasting begins. Some people love the black secret concoction with its throat-warming high alcohol content and bittersweet flavour. Others loathe it, comparing its medicinal taste (it was the creation of a pharmacist in 1752) to the unloved cough syrups of their youth. Recent brand extensions such as the treacly blackcurrant version are definitely acquired tastes.
Besides straight shots (hardcore elements mix it with vodka...), Black Balzām makes an interesting addition to cocktails:
Black Mojito Mix one part Black Balzām with four parts lemon-lime soda, add half a smashed lime and a drizzle of fruit syrup. Serve over crushed ice.
Lazybones Add a shot of Black Balzām to a cold glass of cola.
Black Shake Toss a shot of Black Balzām into a vanilla milkshake.
Where to Eat & Drink
Rīga’s range of dining and eating options rivals any other European city of its size, but elsewhere – with the exception of Jūrmala and a few other larger towns – the choices are limited as locals on limited budgets take their meals at home.
Restorāns (restaurants) in Latvia are generally sit-down affairs, while kafejnīca (pronounced ka-fay-neet-za; cafes) are multipurpose facilities where patrons enjoy a coffee, a faster meal or drinks in the evening. Bars, especially in Rīga and other major cities, often offer a full menu of dishes. For quick, self-service choices, keep an eye out for pelmeņi (dumpling) and pancake shops, cafeteria-style venues such as some of the links in the Lido restaurant chain, and supermarkets, namely Rimi, which sells to-go snacks and meals. Small towns have local restaurants that mix hearty fare with international staples like burgers and pizza.
A Latvian brokastis (breakfast), available from sunrise to around 11am, usually consists of bread and cheese, cold meat and smoked fish. Pusidienās (lunch) and vakariņas (dinner) are more substantial affairs, with heartier Baltic staples. Restaurants serve lunch at midday. Dinner tends to be around 7pm, although it can be later during long summer nights.
Survival Guide
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
€ less than €7
€€ €7–15
€€€ more than €15
8Directory A–Z
ACCOMMODATION
ABook ahead during the high season (summer). Rates drop significantly in the colder months.
ARīga has a huge selection of hotels and apartments.
AOutside of Jūrmala, beachfront accommodation is not as common as you’d expect.
ACheck out www.camping.lv for details on places to pitch a tent.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.
€ less than €40
€€ €40–90
€€€ more than €90
ACTIVITIES
Latvia’s vast forests are great for hiking, cycling, camping, birdwatching, berry-picking, mushrooming and canoeing during the warmer months. The Latvian coast is an almost uninterrupted stretch of untrammelled white-sand beaches backed by pine-covered dunes.
Water sports are enjoyed along the Gulf of Rīga and the Kurzeme Coast. In winter, skiing – primarily cross-country – is popular.
Latvians enjoy nature walks and a growing number of trails are being developed in places such as Ķemeri National Park.
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
Latvian customs rules are in line with EU rules for the Schengen Area. Check the regulations at www.vid.gov.lv/en/customs.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
The following useful diplomatic offices are in Rīga:
Belarusian Embassy (%6732 5321; www.latvia.mfa.gov.by; Jēzusbaznīcas 12; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)
Russian Consulate (%6721 2579; www.latvia.mid.ru; Skolas iela 20-16; hvisas by appointment)
INTERNET ACCESS
Almost all accommodation in Latvia has free wi-fi. Many restaurants, cafes and bars offer wi-fi – just ask for the password. Some, like the Lido chain, have open networks. There are also free wi-fi networks in many public spaces and city centres.
LANGUAGE
| Hello (good day) | Labdien | lab-dee-in |
| Hi (informal) | Sveiki | svay-kee |
| How are you? | Kā jums klājas | kah yooms klah-yus |
| Thank you | Paldies | paul-dee-iss |
| Please/you’re welcome | Lūdzu | lood-zoo |
MAPS
AExcellent printed country and city maps of Latvia are published by Rīga-based Jāņa sēta (www.kartes.lv) and are sold widely. There is also a useful app.
AFree national, regional and local maps are available at tourist offices and can be downloaded (www.latvia.travel).
ANote that Google Maps can be weak on road hierarchies and may provide directions that include rough, dirt roads when better, paved options are close by. Double-check routes with a printed map.
MONEY
ALatvia uses the euro.
AATMs are easy to find and credit cards are widely accepted.
POST
Latvia’s postal service (www.post.lv) has offices in most towns. Service is reliable; mail to North America takes about 10 days, and within Europe about a week.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
New Year’s Day 1 January
Easter Friday & Monday March/April
Labour Day 1 May
Restoration of Independence Day 4 May
Mothers’ Day Second Sunday in May
Whitsunday A Sunday in May or June
Līgo Day (Midsummer festival) 23 June
Jāņi (Summer Solstice) 24 June
National Day 18 November; anniversary of the 1918 Proclamation of the Republic of Latvia
Christmas (Ziemsvētki) 24–26 December
New Year’s Eve 31 December
TELEPHONE
ALatvian telephone numbers have eight digits; landlines start with 6 and mobile numbers start with 2.
AThere are no area codes.
ALatvia’s country code is 371.
TOURIST INFORMATION
ALatvia’s national tourist organisation, Magnetic Latvia (www.latvia.travel), has good information online.
AMost towns and cities in Latvia have a tourist office, open during normal business hours (at the very least), with extended hours during the summer. Most have English-speaking staff and oodles of useful brochures and maps for the entire country, as well as regional info for the Baltics.
ACheck out the website of the Latvia Institute (www.li.lv) for in-depth cultural and economic information.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
International air service to Latvia is through Rīga International Airport, about 13km southwest of the city centre. Liepāja International Airport (www.liepaja-airport.lv) has one connecting flight with Rīga five times weekly.
Several major European airlines serve Rīga. Latvia’s national carrier, airBaltic (www.airbaltic.com), offers direct flights to over 60 destinations within Europe, including Tallinn and Vilnius.
LAND
Latvia is in the EU’s Schengen Area, which means there are no border controls between it and both Estonia and Lithuania. However, carry your travel documents with you at all times, as random border checks do occur.
Bus
Major international bus companies serving Rīga include Ecolines (www.ecolines.net) and Lux Express (www.luxexpress.eu). Fares vary widely: compare prices on www.1188.lv.
Destinations from Rīga with daily service include the following:
ABerlin (18½ hours)
AKaliningrad (eight hours)
AMinsk (nine to 10 hours)
AMoscow (14 hours)
ATallinn (4¼ to 4¾ hours)
ATartu (four hours)
AVilnius (four to 4½ hours)
ASt Petersburg (11 hours)
AWarsaw (11 hours)
Car
Rental cars are usually allowed to travel around the Baltics, but confirm details with your rental provider.
Train
International trains head from Rīga to Moscow (16 hours), St Petersburg (15 hours) and Minsk (nine hours) daily.
For Tallinn to/from Rīga, there is a daily quick connection at Valga (6½ hours overall). For Vilnius to/from Rīga, there is a weekend-only connection with a stopover in Daugavpils (overall times vary).
SEA
Regular car and passenger ferry services include Rīga–Stockholm, Liepāja–Travemünde, Germany, and Ventspils–Nynäshamin, Sweden.
8Getting Around
BUS
Buses are the main mode of public transport for much of Latvia. Check schedules and fares at www.autoosta.lv and www.1188.lv.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving is on the right-hand side. Headlights must be on at all times. Be sure to ask for ‘benzene’ when looking for a petrol station – gāze means ‘air’. Some roads linking important towns outside Rīga are unpaved.
Major car-rental firms operate in Rīga and at the airport. Most can arrange for the car to be delivered to your hotel or apartment address. Contracts usually allow the car to be driven in the three Baltic countries, although there are variations; confirm when reserving. Rīga-based firms may offer cheaper rates.
Car Rent Riga (%2958 0448; www.carsrent.lv) Cash-only, with a €200 deposit. Cars delivered in the Rīga area.
EgiCarRent (%2570 5475; www.egi.lv) Minimum rental period is three days. Cars delivered anywhere in Rīga.
TRAIN
Train travel is convenient for destinations near Rīga, including Jūrmala, Saulkrasti, Sigulda and Cēsis. Service is limited for destinations further afield, with the exception of Daugavpils.
Check schedules and fares at www.pv.lv and www.1188.lv.