FROZEN DESSERTS
| —1840s— | • The first hand-crank ice cream maker is invented. |
| —1870s— | • Despite serious technical challenges, people persevere and make frozen treats. |
| —1895— | • Granita was not invented in 1990, friends! See Raspberry Granita (here). |
| —1940— | • The first Dairy Queen opens in Joliet, Illinois. |
| —1950s— | • Velvets are frozen meringue and cream—a great ice cream cheat if you don’t own an ice cream maker (see here). |
| —1956— | • Mister Softee is founded by William and James Conway, who drive an ice cream truck around West Philadelphia. |
| —1970s— | • Soufflé 2.0: the frozen soufflé (here). |
| —1973— | • Steve Herrell comes up with the concept of à la carte “mix-ins” in ice cream at his shop, Steve’s Ice Cream, in Somerville, Massachusetts. |
| —1975— | • Ice Cream Pie (here). |
| —1978— | • Ben & Jerry’s is founded in Burlington, Vermont. |
| —1981— | • First TCBY opens in Little Rock, Arkansas. |
| —1990s— | • Restaurant pastry chefs start serving super-smooth ice cream made in a Pacojet, which scrapes andchurns frozen custard at high speeds. • The era of the luxury sorbet—berries with herbal infusions, cocoa, passion fruit, sour cream. |
| —2002— | • Jon Snyder founds Il Laboratorio del Gelato on Manhattan’s Lower East Side and kicks off a gelato craze. |
| —2003— | • Mario Batali’s Otto Enoteca Pizzeria opens in Manhattan and instantly becomes more famous for its olive oil gelato dusted with sea salt than for its pizza. |
| —2005— | • The first Pinkberry hits Los Angeles, and teens line up by the hundred for plain and green tea “frozen yogurt.” |
| —2008— | • The Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream truck starts puttering around New York City’s SoHo district, selling ice creams with painstakingly sourced ingredients such as red currants from the Hudson Valley and pistachios from the slopes of Mount Etna. |
| —2009— | • Sherbet makes a comeback. |
FROZEN DESSERTS
As someone who eats ice cream nearly every day, I’m an enthusiastic proponent of making it yourself. With a reliable machine, it couldn’t be easier. Much of the work is simply stirring; only a few recipes require you to simmer custard on the stove. Cooks from the nineteenth century seemed to share my zeal—there were dozens and dozens of frozen desserts in the archives, including a few unexpected discoveries. If you thought Italian granita was created in 1995, see the Raspberry Granita from 1895 here. (A century later, ideas for granita expanded to include grapefruit [here], almond [here], and clove [here].) And I highly recommend you try the Tea Ice Cream (here) from 1877, which is made with green tea.
Citrus sherbets went in and out of vogue, as you’ll see from the 1946 Lime Sherbet (here) and the 2009 Tangerine Sherbet (here)—and the absence of sherbets in between. And the range of flavors we experimented with grew in recent years. In the past decade, you can find licorice (here), star anise (here), and even red wine (here).
The best part of making ice cream is that, unlike most desserts, it keeps for weeks. And while friends seem to appreciate anything homemade these days, there’s something about home-fashioned ice cream and sorbets that induces astonishment among guests, who’ve become all too accustomed to Häagen-Dazs. Someone needs to start a make-at-home movement, and if it has to be me, fine!
Ice Creams
Tea Ice Cream (A Massachusetts Receipt)
Blackberry Ice Cream with Candied Lemon Zest
Ice Cream Desserts
Coupe Lena Horne (Coffee Ice Cream Sundae)
Sorbets and Ices
Mousses, etc.
Bittersweet Chocolate Semifreddo
I think of this as a timeless children’s dessert. A simple flavor that’s not quite sorbet, not quite shaved ice, but somewhere in between—an icy hillock that can be slowly excavated with a small spoon.
———
5 oranges
3 cups fresh orange juice (from about 9 oranges total, including the ones for zesting)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 cup water
1. Using a sharp paring knife, thinly pare the zest from the oranges and place in a bowl. Add the orange juice, lemon juice, sugar, and water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Let sit for 1 hour.
2. Strain the juice, pour into an ice cream maker, and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then pack into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
MAY 6, 1877: “RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE.” RECIPE SIGNED AUNT ADDIE.
—1877
TEA ICE CREAM (A MASSACHUSETTS RECEIPT)
This is one of the best ice creams I’ve ever made. The original called for “old Hyson tea,” which is a green tea. Use any tea you like. I made it with jasmine silver tip from the Rare Tea Company (www.rareteacompany.com), a gorgeous tea with glimmers of green tea flavor.
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¼ cup high-quality green or other tea leaves
4 cups heavy cream
4 large eggs
1 cup sugar
Pinch of salt (optional)
1. Combine the tea and 2 cups heavy cream in a double boiler and scald the cream (heat it until the cream is steaming and bubbles form around the edges). Turn off the heat and let steep for 10 minutes.
2. Strain the cream, return to the double boiler, and add the remaining 2 cups heavy cream. Scald again.
3. Whisk together the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until pale yellow and fluffy. Slowly whisk in the hot cream, followed by the pinch of salt, if using. Let cool, then chill overnight.
4. The next day, whisk the cream mixture, pour it into an ice cream maker, and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ QUARTS
COOKING NOTES
Many desserts from this period were oversweetened. This ice cream called for ¾ pound of sugar, about 1½ cups; I reduced it to 1 cup.
I added the pinch of salt—all desserts benefit from a little salt, which amplifies flavors.
The ice cream base separates when chilled overnight, so make sure you whisk it together again before adding it to your ice cream maker.
PERIOD DETAIL
In addition to offering bits of dubious advice, “The Household” column also ran reader queries. Pet birds were of particular interest. On the day the column ran this ice cream recipe, it also published these squawks for help:
“What will relieve a pet parrot (gray) that is troubled with what appears to be cramps, causing it at times to fall from its perch, evidently in much pain.”
“What to do for an afflicted canary-bird. The top of his head and back of his neck are entirely bare of feathers; he is not moulting, and there is no appearance of feathers dropping out, they seem to disappear; otherwise he seems perfectly well, and sings all the time.”
JUNE 16, 1878: “THE HOUSEHOLD: RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE.” RECIPE SIGNED A.C.L.
—1878
Chestnut puddings of this era were often called Nesselrode, after Count Nesselrode, a Russian diplomat who negotiated the Treaty of Paris. None of the sources I found explain why he became associated with chestnuts—for all we know, he may not have even liked them. This version is more ice cream than pudding. The original recipe called for folding the egg whites and cream into the ice cream base and then freezing it in a mold, but I found that the ice cream turned icy in the freezer. So now you fold the egg whites and cream into the ice cream as it’s churning.
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¼ cup raisins
¼ cup finely chopped candied citron
¼ cup dried currants
1¼ cups maraschino liqueur
24 peeled chestnuts (see Cooking Notes) or vacuum-packed peeled chestnuts
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped out and reserved
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
3 large egg yolks
3 large eggs, separated
1. Combine the raisins, citron, currants, and 1 cup maraschino liqueur in a small bowl. Cover and let sit overnight.
2. Meanwhile, combine the chestnuts, vanilla seeds, sugar, and the remaining ¼ cup maraschino liqueur in a food processor. Puree the mixture until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.
3. Scrape the puree into a medium heavy saucepan. Add the milk and 1 cup heavy cream and whisk until smooth. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Lightly whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Whisk 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks, then whisk this mixture into the remaining milk. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon over medium-low heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. Make sure you don’t overcook it, or you’ll have scrambled eggs. Adjust the heat as necessary and go slowly. Pour the mixture into a clean bowl, set the bowl in a bowl of ice water, and let cool, stirring occasionally, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
4. The next day, drain the raisin mixture and add the fruit to the ice cream base. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
5. Meanwhile, when the ice cream is almost done, whip the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Add to the ice cream in the machine, and continue churning. Whip the remaining heavy cream until it holds stiff peaks and add to the ice cream. Continue churning until the ice cream is ready. Scrape the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1½ TO 2 QUARTS
COOKING NOTES
You can freeze this in a mold if you like. To unmold, dip the base in warm water, dry it, and invert onto a plate.
This recipe is a two-day process. Do up through Step 3 the first day and finish the pudding the following day.
To boil chestnuts, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut an X in the rounded side of each chestnut. Add the nuts to the boiling water and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain. When the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel off their shells as well as the light brown skin that sticks to the nut.
PERIOD DETAIL
Later, the essential Nesselrode flavors—chestnuts, raisins, brandy—would be made into pies. During the 1940s, Hortense Spier, the owner of Hortense Spier Pies in New York, became well known for her Nesselrode dessert, which she sold to restaurants around the city.
JULY 6, 1879: “RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE.” RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ANNE BOWMAN’S NEW COOKERY-BOOK.
—1879
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1 large very ripe pineapple, trimmed, peeled, cored, and cut into chunks
1 tablespoon powdered gelatin
¼ cup cold water
1¾ cups warm water
1¼ cups sugar
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste (from about 2 limes)
Pinch of salt
1. Place the pineapple chunks in a food processor and pulse until the pineapple is broken down to small, coarse bits but is not pureed. Measure out 4 cups pineapple.
2. Sprinkle the gelatin over the ¼ cup cold water in a large bowl. Let soften for 5 minutes.
3. Add the 1¾ cups warm water, 4 cups pineapple, and the sugar to the gelatin mixture and stir until both the sugar and gelatin are dissolved. Add half the lime juice and the salt. Chill thoroughly.
4. Pour the pineapple mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions; add the remaining lime juice if desired, halfway through.
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS
VARIATION
In Step 3, combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, add 4 bruised kaffir lime leaves, and shut off the heat. Let cool until just warm, remove the kaffir lime leaves, and add the sugar syrup and pineapple to the gelatin mixture.
APRIL 10, 1881: “VARIOUS COOKING RECEIPTS: HOW MISS PARLOA PREPARES SOME POPULAR DISHES.” RECIPE REPRINTED FROM THE HARTFORD EVENING POST.
—1881
RASPBERRY GRANITA
“A few years ago, the making of frozen desserts was considered to be so difficult and delicate an operation that their accomplishment was, as a rule, relegated to the skilled caterer or French cook,” said the Times writer in an article on frozen desserts. But now, he claimed, a good ice cream maker “is rapidly becoming a necessary factor in every well-ordered kitchen.” The article included recipes for frappes, Pomona ice (orange and apple), cherry ice, milk sherbet, custard ice cream, and this delicious granita.
Of the granita, which the writer recommended for garden parties, he said, “This is a favorite dessert with all who have tried it and deserves a prominent place in the list of frozen dainties.” I couldn’t agree more. A nice touch is the last step, in which fresh raspberries are folded into the icy granita shortly before serving.
———
4 cups water
2 cups sugar
Juice of 3 small lemons, or to taste
11 cups (about 5½ pints) raspberries
1. Combine the water and sugar in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then reduce the heat and cook at a low boil for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice (to taste) and 8 cups raspberries and stir until the raspberries just begin to break down. Let cool. Taste, adding more lemon juice as desired. If the mixture is too sweet, dilute with a little water.
2. Pour the mixture into a lasagna pan or similar wide shallow pan (large enough so the raspberry mixture isn’t more than an inch or two deep, yet small enough to fit in your freezer), and freeze for 1 hour. Use a sturdy fork to stir up the frozen bits, and continue doing this every 30 minutes or so, until the granita is just shards of raspberry ice. (It will hold overnight, so you can take a break and finish it in the morning if needed.)
3. Thirty minutes before serving, fold in the remaining 3 cups raspberries, and return to the freezer.
SERVES 8 TO 12
COOKING NOTES
This makes a lot of granita, maybe more than you need (and raspberries can be expensive), but the recipe can easily be halved.
I served this in plain glass tumblers. It’s also good with fresh cream poured on top!
JULY 28, 1895: “FROZEN TABLE DAINTIES: AUGUST DESSERTS SHOULD BE ICED CREAMS, FRUITS, AND SYRUPS.”
—1895
TORTONI
Figuring out the route a recipe took to get from, say, the Alps two centuries ago to your dinner table in Vermont is a bit like tracking a scent in the woods: there are moments of baying enthusiasm followed by dead ends and whimpering. Tortoni, a frozen mousse speckled with crushed macaroons, is no exception. It’s usually attributed to Giuseppe Tortoni, whose Café Tortoni in Paris was known for its ices and ice creams (and also for its clientele, which included Balzac and Maupassant). Tortoni, also called biscuit tortoni, became the rage in mid-nineteenth-century Paris, then wended its way to America, where it found a ravenous following as a street cart and restaurant treat before evaporating from our culinary memory sometime in the early twentieth.
At least, I think that’s what happened. Everyone I talked to about tortoni pointed me to Robin Weir, acknowledged as the foremost expert on ice cream. When I reached him in England, I asked if he could tell me about tortoni’s history. “Absolutely not!” he bellowed. Weir and his wife, Caroline, have an ice cream book—Ice Creams, Sorbets and Gelati (then in the works, now published)—that apparently reveals a whole new history of tortoni. “You will be absolutely riveted by it,” he promised, adding, “you will have a hard time finding any information about tortoni, since it took us four years.” Whimper!
If you’ve never had tortoni, you’re in for a delight. It’s ice cream’s fantasy of ice cream: scented with almonds and sometimes with rum, its airy mousse is uninhibited by gravity yet also a tiny bit chewy. The differences between ice cream and tortoni lie in the techniques of their making. Ice cream is made by blending rich materials—cream and sugar and sometimes eggs—and then churning air into the heavy mixture with an ice cream maker. With tortoni, the technique is deconstructed. In the following version, air is whipped into egg whites and yolks, and the mousse is bolstered by the addition of a hot sugar syrup. More air is whipped into cream, and the two mousses are folded together, then poured into a mold lined with crushed macaroons. (This tortoni is unusual in that the crushed macaroons aren’t mixed into the mousse and it doesn’t contain alcohol or fruit.) Because tortoni has so much air and elasticity to it, the mixture never hardens like ice cream when it freezes, and when it melts, it gets fluffy rather than soupy.
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12 almond macaroons (you can use coconut macaroons in a pinch)
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup water
3 large eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups heavy cream
1. Heat the oven to 250 degrees. Break the macaroons into pieces and toast them on a baking sheet until golden, dry, and crumbly, about 10 minutes. Let cool.
2. Grind the macaroons to fine crumbs in a food processor. You need about 1 cup.
3. Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan, attach a candy thermometer to the pan, and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook until the syrup reaches 230 degrees.
4. Meanwhile, whip the whites in a mixer fitted with a whisk until they form firm peaks. Whip the yolks by hand until fluffy, then fold into the whites.
5. When the sugar syrup is ready, turn on the mixer to medium speed and slowly pour in the syrup in a fine thread; try to pour the syrup between the side of the bowl and the whisk so the whisk doesn’t fling the syrup all over the sides of the bowl and your counter. Be patient: you don’t want the eggs to cook—they should become mousse-like. Reduce the speed to low and whip until the mixture cools to room temperature. Mix in the vanilla.
6. Whip the cream to soft peaks, and fold it into the egg mixture.
7. Line the base of a 2-quart soufflé dish or other mold with parchment. Spoon half the macaroon crumbs into the mold. Cover with the mousse. Top with the remaining crumbs. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.
8. To unmold, dip the base of the dish in a bowl of hot water, just long enough to warm the edges of the mousse. Run a thin knife around the edges of the mold, dry the base of the mold, and invert onto a plate, discard the parchment paper. Cut into wedges.
COOKING NOTES
I made a fortunate mistake when I first tried this recipe. I hadn’t bought enough cream and had just 1⅓ cups, so I used ⅔ cup sour cream to make up the difference. This added a lovely tang to the sweet, chewy frozen mousse.
Tortoni is often frozen in small cups the size of a cupcake paper. This one is frozen in a large mold, then sliced.
SEPTEMBER 11, 1898: “WOMEN HERE AND THERE.”
—1898
BAKED ALASKA
Don’t bother making your own ice cream or sponge cake for this one. Buy a sponge cake that you can freeze, and keep a stock of your favorite ice cream flavor. Then, as long as you have some eggs in the house, you’re ready to impress with this Everest of desserts. And if you really want to make a statement, you can douse it with rum and light it on fire before whisking it to the table (though you should keep in mind that “maker of flaming meringues” could end up on your tombstone).
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1 pint ice cream (flavor of your choosing)
1 store-bought sponge cake layer
4 large egg whites
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting
1. Pack the ice cream into a mold—any shape you like (I used a round stainless steel bowl). Freeze.
2. Heat the oven to 500 degrees. Trim the sponge cake so it’s the same shape and size as the base of your ice cream mold—this will be the bed on which the ice cream sits. It should be no more than 1 inch thick. (Reserve the trimmings for another use, like snacking.) Lay the sponge cake base in a small baking pan.
3. Whip the egg whites in a large bowl until frothy. Add the cream of tartar, vanilla, and confectioners’ sugar and continue whisking until the whites hold firm peaks.
4. Dip the base of the ice cream mold in warm water, then unmold the ice cream onto the sponge cake base. Working quickly, cover the ice cream and cake base with the meringue—treat it like icing. Dust with confectioners’ sugar. Slide the baking dish into the oven and bake just until the meringue begins to toast and brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
JULY 4, 1909: “DELICIOUS DISHES FOR SUMMER.” SOME PROPORTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS COME FROM THE BAKED ALASKA RECIPE IN “NEWS OF FOOD; BRAVE COOK FIRST PUT ICE CREAM IN OVEN AND NOW THE RESULT IS BAKED ALASKA,” BY JANE NICKERSON, AUGUST 4, 1949.
—1909
BROWN SUGAR ICE CREAM
Get ready for an intense, fleecy ice cream.
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One 1-pound box dark brown sugar
¼ cup water
3½ cups whole milk
5 large eggs
Pinch of salt
2 cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 cup pecans, lightly toasted and finely chopped
1. Moisten the brown sugar with the water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring just until the sugar is dissolved, and cook until the water boils off and the sugar begins to caramelize and darken like a chestnut, about 5 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, pour the milk into a medium saucepan and heat over medium-high heat until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl. Whisk in a little hot milk, then whisk this mixture into the remaining milk. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium-low heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the custard to a bowl.
3. Whisk the caramel into the custard and add the salt. Let cool, then chill overnight.
4. The next day, pour the custard into an ice cream maker and begin freezing according to the manufacturer’s instructions (see Cooking Notes). When the ice cream begins to firm up, fold in the whipped cream and pecans and continue churning until it’s done. Pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 2½ TO 3 QUARTS
COOKING NOTES
This makes more than most ice cream makers can hold, so you may need to churn the ice cream (and whipped cream and pecans) in two batches.
I added 3 more eggs than the original recipe called for, because modern eggs seem to have less binding strength, and it takes more of them to thicken a custard.
Whipping the cream before adding it to the churning ice cream gives it extra air and creaminess—a great trick.
MARCH 13, 1910: “NEW DISHES FOR EPICURES.”
—1910
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
Jane Holt, a food writer for the Times in the 1940s, quoted Dr. William Butler, an English physician, on strawberries: “Doubtless God could have made a better berry. But doubtless God never did.” The strawberry’s beauty is on full display here, embellished with a pillowy ice cream.
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1 quart ripe strawberries, washed and hulled
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
A few grains of salt
2 cups heavy cream
1. Force the berries through a colander into a bowl. Add the sugar, lemon juice, and salt and refrigerate until chilled.
2. Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks. Fold into the strawberry mixture. Chill the mixture overnight.
3. The next day, pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
PERIOD DETAIL
In 1877, Aunt Addie, a frequent contributor, shared a recipe for strawberry ice cream that included maraschino (the spirit, not the cherries) and cochineal (a red dye derived from a Central American insect) for extra color. Otherwise the same method was used—folding whipped cream into the ice cream base just before freezing.
MAY 25, 1941: “FOR STRAWBERRY ADDICTS,” BY JANE HOLT.
—1941
LIME SHERBET
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½ teaspoon powdered gelatin
2 cups whole milk
½ cup sugar
½ cup corn syrup
½ cup fresh lime juice (about 4 limes)
Pinch of salt
1. Soften the gelatin in ¼ cup milk in a small cup. (Then warm in the microwave to help it fully dissolve.)
2. Combine the gelatin mixture, the remaining 1¾ cups milk, sugar, corn syrup, lime juice, and salt in a large bowl and stir until the sugar is fully dissolved.
3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. Spoon the sherbet into a freezer container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
SEPTEMBER 1, 1946: “FLAVORED WITH LIMES,” BY JANE NICKERSON.
—1946
COUPE LENA HORNE (COFFEE ICE CREAM SUNDAE)
The name of this coffee-colored sundae, a shout-out to the singer Lena Horne, who died in 2010, had unfortunate racial overtones, but I included the dish because it’s a worthy historical snapshot, and because it’s very good.
Don’t sweeten the whipped cream: it should contrast with the ice cream. The crème de cacao wraps the dessert with notes of caramel. This may not be what you serve at your next dinner party, but it’s the perfect dessert for family—it reminds you of what you used to think fancy food was.
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1 quart coffee ice cream
½ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
½ cup crème de cacao
Place the ice cream in parfait glasses, top with the cream, and add the crème de cacao.
SERVES 6
PERIOD DETAIL
Two years after this recipe appeared, the Times ran a similar recipe for Moscow Embassy Punch, which was ice cream doused with coffee. The modern manifestation of these ideas is affogato, or espresso poured over vanilla gelato, a dessert popular in Italian restaurants.
AUGUST 10, 1947: “SIMPLE FARE—FOR GOURMETS,” BY JANE NICKERSON. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM TOWN PENGUIN, A RESTAURANT IN NEW YORK CITY.
—1947
FRUIT MARLOW
The frozen cousin to ambrosia. Make this with your kids—they’ll love it.
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½ pound (24) marshmallows
¼ cup water
2 cups canned crushed pineapple or 2 cups pureed bananas
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1. Put the marshmallows and water in a double boiler and cook, covered, stirring occasionally until the marshmallows are melted. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Blend the fruit and lemon juice into the marshmallow mixture. Chill thoroughly.
3. Fold the whipped cream into the marshmallow mixture. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8
PERIOD DETAIL
The three other ice cream recipes in this article called for ingredients we’d find intolerable today: an orange coconut ice cream made with evaporated milk, apricot ice cream with sweetened condensed milk, and peach ice cream containing vanilla pudding mix. Thankfully, cooking with processed foods—which took hold for decades in most American kitchens—lasted just a few years in the Times: from the end of the war until the early 1950s.
JUNE 6, 1948: “FRUIT-FLAVORED ICE CREAMS,” BY JANE NICKERSON. RECIPE BY RUTH P. CASA-EMELLOS, THE HEAD OF THE TIMES TEST KITCHEN.
—1948
FROZEN MERINGUE VELVET
This and Dick Taeuber’s Cordial Pie here were clearly separated at birth. Velvets are beautiful frozen mousses, often infused with a light or dark spirit, that can be made without an ice cream maker. Another example is the Tortoni here.
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1 cup chopped or diced candied fruit
⅓ cup maraschino liqueur
1⅔ cups sugar
½ cup water
6 large egg whites
1¾ cups coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts or a combination of almonds and pistachios
4 cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1. Combine the candied fruit and maraschino liqueur in a small bowl and let marinate until ready to use.
2. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and attach a candy thermometer to the pan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then lower the heat to medium-low to low and cook until the syrup reaches 236 degrees.
3. Meanwhile, beat the egg whites in a mixer fitted with a whisk, until they form stiff peaks. Add the syrup to the egg whites in a fine stream while beating—try to pour it between the side of the bowl and the whisk so it doesn’t fly around the bowl. Continue beating until the meringue forms stiff peaks. Refrigerate until chilled.
4. Add the nuts to the marinated fruit, and fold into the meringue.
5. Fold in the whipped cream, blending the two mixtures well. Pack into a container and freeze.
MAKES ABOUT 3 QUARTS
JUNE 7, 1959: “SWEETS FOR SUMMER,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE.
—1959
LEMON LOTUS ICE CREAM
My friend Narcissa Titman insisted I try this ice cream—her family has been making it for decades. It’s the kind of recipe that shouldn’t work, as milk and lemon are naturally opposed. Sugar acts as the mediator, allowing the cream to stay rich and moussey and the lemon to blaze alongside.
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4 lemons
2 cups sugar
4 cups heavy cream (see Cooking Notes)
2 cups whole milk
1. Cut 1 lemon into paper-thin slices. Remove the seeds from the slices and cut the slices in half to resemble half moons.
2. Squeeze the juice of the remaining 3 lemons and combine with the sugar in a medium bowl. Add the lemon slices. Stir until all the sugar is dissolved, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or, preferably, overnight.
3. Whisk the cream and milk into the lemon mixture, then pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 2½ QUARTS
COOKING NOTES
The lemon must be sliced paper-thin, or you’ll get hard lemon chips in your ice cream. Use a mandoline if you have one.
Narcissa recommends using half heavy cream, half light cream, which makes it, she says, less “gummy.”
VARIATION
Make this with Meyer lemons!
JULY 2, 1961. I COULD NOT FIND THE TITLE OR AUTHOR, BUT THE SAME RECIPE POPPED UP ON AUGUST 23, 1976, IN AN ARTICLE TITLED “HEATED DEBATE OVER KITCHEN GRAMMAR,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE.
—1961
MRS. FOSTER’S FROSTY LIME PIE
When the lime filling freezes, it turns crystalline, which adds texture to the pie—a little like bubbles in bathwater.
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For the Graham Cracker Crust
1¼ cups graham cracker crumbs
¼ cup superfine sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
For the Filling
5 large eggs, separated
¾ cup superfine sugar
2 teaspoons grated lime zest
⅔ cup strained fresh lime juice (from about 6 limes)
⅛ teaspoon salt
For the Topping
1½ cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
Thin lime slices or fresh strawberries
Sugar if using lime slices
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. To make the crust, place the graham cracker crumbs and sugar in a bowl. Add the butter and work with a wooden spoon (or your fingers) to blend well.
2. Press the mixture evenly into a 9-inch pie plate with your fingertips (or use an 8-inch pie plate to press down the mixture). Bake for 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature. (Leave the oven on.)
3. To make the filling, beat the egg yolks in the top of a double boiler over medium heat until very thick (they should register 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer). Gradually beat in ½ cup sugar and continue beating until the mixture is very pale and thick and forms a rope when dropped from the beater. Stir in the lime zest and juice and cook over simmering water, stirring, until the mixture coats the back of the spoon; do not allow to boil. Pour the mixture into a large bowl and let cool to room temperature.
4. When the yolk mixture is at room temperature, beat the egg whites with the salt in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the remaining ¼ cup sugar until the meringue is stiff and shiny. Stir one-third of the meringue into the cooled yolk mixture. Fold in the remaining meringue mixture until evenly distributed.
5. Turn the filling into the graham cracker crust and bake for 15 minutes, or until lightly tinged with brown. Cool.
6. Chill the pie in the refrigerator, then transfer to the freezer. Once it is frozen, cover with plastic wrap.
7. Remove the pie from the freezer 10 minutes before serving. Cover with the whipped cream and garnish with lime slices dipped in sugar or fresh strawberries.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING NOTES
Raymond A. Sokolov, who wrote about this pie, added that the “pie will keep frozen 2 to 3 weeks. If a sweeter pie is desired, cut down the lime juice to ½ cup. Extra pie can be refrozen. If desired, the pie can be well chilled and served without freezing.”
Press the crust as thin as possible, because once the pie is frozen, a thick crust will make it very difficult to cut.
JULY 11, 1971: “BAKE A PIE TO BEAT THE HEAT,” BY RAYMOND A. SOKOLOV. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM PEARL FOSTER OF MR. AND MRS. FOSTER’S PLACE IN NEW YORK CITY.
—1971
FROZEN LEMON SOUFFLÉ
———
6 large eggs, separated
6 large egg yolks
1¾ cups plus 2 teaspoons sugar
¾ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 3 lemons)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
½ cup heavy cream
Whipped cream for garnish (optional)
Candied flowers for garnish (optional)
1. Select a deep skillet into which a 2-quart bowl fits comfortably. Add enough water to come up around the sides of the bowl without overflowing. Remove the bowl and start heating the water in the skillet.
2. Drop the egg yolks and 1½ cups sugar into the bowl and beat with a whisk or hand mixer until light and lemon colored. Add the lemon juice. When the water is boiling, set the bowl in the skillet and continue beating until the egg mixture is like a very thick, smooth, and creamy custard, 5 to 10 minutes. (The temperature of the egg mixture at this point should be about 120 to 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.)
3. Scrape the mixture into another bowl and stir in the lemon zest. Let cool, then chill thoroughly.
4. Prepare a 1½-quart soufflé dish: Tear off a length of wax paper that will fit around the outside of the dish, adding an inch or two for overlap. Fold the wax paper lengthwise into thirds. Wrap it around the soufflé dish so it extends about 2 inches above the rim, making sure that it overlaps itself at the end by at least 1 inch; secure it with string or paper clips.
5. Beat the heavy cream in a small bowl, and when it starts to thicken, add 2 teaspoons sugar. Continue beating until stiff. Fold this into the egg yolk mixture.
6. Beat the egg whites in a large bowl. When they start to mound, add the remaining ¼ cup sugar, beating constantly. Continue beating until the whites are stiff. Fold them into the soufflé mixture.
7. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and place in the freezer. Let stand for at least 5 hours, or overnight, until frozen.
8. Remove the wax paper. Decorate the soufflé if desired with whipped cream, piped out of a pastry tube, and candied flowers.
SERVES 8
OCTOBER 20, 1974: “FOOD: AH, LEMON SOUFFLÉ,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE WITH PIERRE FRANEY.
—1974
ICE CREAM PIE
There are a few versions of ice cream pie, none of them very complicated. Some are nothing more than ice cream pressed in layers in a pie dish, frozen again, and sliced. Others include a crust. Occasionally there are garish toppings. This one is fun to make because rather than pressing a cookie crust into the pie dish, you fill the dish with a chocolate soufflé mixture and let it rise in the oven, then fall as it cools and firms. Then you pile the soufflé shell with ice cream and nuts and chill before serving. Et voilà—a children’s birthday party dessert that you’ll be happy to eat too!
———
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs
One 6-ounce package (1 cup) semisweet chocolate chips
4 large eggs, separated
Pinch of salt
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon almond extract
1 pint chocolate or vanilla ice cream
¼ cup chopped walnuts
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch pie plate with the butter. Coat the sides and bottom of the pie plate with the crumbs; set aside.
2. Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler over hot, not boiling, water (or melt them in the microwave). Remove from the heat.
3. Beat the egg whites with the salt in a mixer fitted with a whisk (or in a large bowl with a hand mixer) until foamy. Gradually beat in 2 tablespoons sugar, and continue beating until the whites are stiff and glossy.
4. Beat the egg yolks with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar in another large bowl until thick and lemon colored. Stir in the vanilla, almond extract, and melted chocolate until well blended. Carefully fold in the egg whites. Fill the pie plate with the mixture.
5. Bake for 15 minutes. Set on a rack and cool for about 2 hours. As the soufflé mixture cools, it will sink in the center to form a shallow shell.
6. Fill the shell with spoonfuls of ice cream and sprinkle with the nuts. Freeze until firm, at least 1 hour.
SERVES 6 TO 8
JUNE 8, 1975: “FOOD: FOR HIS SWEET TOOTH,” BY JEAN HEWITT.
—1975
BLUEBERRY ICE CREAM
I love that when you taste this ice cream it’s not immediately clear that it contains blueberries. The lemon gives the ice cream a sharp, high pitch and a soft, buttery texture.
———
1 pint blueberries
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup water
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
1. Heat the blueberries in a heavy saucepan, stirring occasionally, until they break down and yield their juice, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, dissolve the sugar in the water in another pan and simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until you have a thin syrup. Cool.
3. Puree the blueberries in a food processor. Transfer to a bowl and add the lemon juice. Mix in the cooled syrup. Add the cream and mix well. Chill overnight.
4. The next day, pour the blueberry mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream in a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
AUGUST 7, 1988: “BLUEBERRIES: BEYOND JUST CREAM,” BY MOIRA HODGSON.
—1988
This granita was meant to be an accompaniment to poached pears. And you should feel free to pursue that idea—a great recipe for Poached Pears in Brandy and Red Wine is here. But I loved this recipe so much on its own that I kept it that way. Clove’s aroma is wonderful but monolithic; it needs to be surrounded with richer and brighter flavors, like the light brown sugar and balsamic vinegar here.
———
3 cups water
25 whole cloves
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1. Combine the water, cloves, and brown sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Let cool.
2. Remove the cloves with a slotted spoon, and stir in the vinegar. Pour the mixture into a shallow metal pan and place in the freezer. Freeze, stirring with a fork every 20 minutes, until firm but not frozen solid, about 2 hours. Then cover and keep frozen until ready to serve. Stir up with a fork before spooning into bowls.
SERVES 4
SEPTEMBER 25, 1994: “PEARS, AN APOLOGIA,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL.
—1994
BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO
———
¾ cup egg whites (from about 5 large eggs)
1½ cups sugar
Pinch of salt
10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped, plus 2 ounces chocolate shavings for garnish
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1¾ cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons dark rum
1 cup unblanched whole hazelnuts
1. Combine the egg whites, sugar, and salt in the top of a double boiler, attach a candy thermometer to the pan, and cook, whisking continually, until the mixture registers 140 degrees. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a mixer fitted with a whisk and whip on high speed until the meringue is completely cooled, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine the chocolate and 4 tablespoons butter in the top of a double boiler set over barely simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3. Whip the cream with the rum in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Cover and refrigerate.
4. Place the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast until the skins crack and the nuts are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Rub the nuts in a towel to remove the skins. Transfer the nuts to a food processor, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and process until a smooth paste is formed.
5. Line a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. Combine the melted chocolate and hazelnut paste in a large bowl. Fold in the whipped cream. Fold in one-quarter of the meringue, then fold in the remainder. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze overnight.
6. To serve, remove the top sheet of plastic wrap, invert the semifreddo onto a platter, and peel away the remaining plastic wrap. Slice into ½-inch-thick slices and garnish with chocolate shavings.
SERVES 16
COOKING NOTE
To make chocolate shavings, use a vegetable peeler to shave slivers of chocolate from a bar.
FEBRUARY 8, 1998: “FOOD: DESSERT IN VENICE,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM VINCENT SCOTTO, THE CHEF AT FRESCO IN NEW YORK CITY.
—1998
When I ordered this ice cream at the restaurant Gary Danko in San Francisco, I expected an anise-alcohol-infused ice cream. But I was in for a surprise. The flavor was not boozy. It did not tingle on my tongue. It did not taste of candy or of anisette. It was pure, clean, and herbal, with a base of cream to bend and soften any sharp edges.
When I asked Danko, the chef, how it was made, he laughed lightly, as if embarrassed that he was stumping me with something as simple as ice cream. The licorice flavor does not come from any of the usual suspects, but from licorice root—yes, the plant—bought in a health food store. And because there is no anisette, there is no alcohol. You won’t miss it.
———
3 cups heavy cream
1½ cups whole milk
½ vanilla bean, split
½ cup chipped licorice root (see Cooking Notes)
10 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1. Combine 1½ cups cream, the milk, and vanilla bean in a large saucepan, and bring almost to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the licorice root, cover, and let steep for 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and salt in a heavy saucepan, and mix with a whisk until well combined. Strain the licorice and vanilla bean from the milk mixture and whisk the milk into the egg yolk mixture. Place over medium heat, and cook stirring constantly, until the mixture is lightly thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining 1½ cups heavy cream. Strain, cool, and refrigerate overnight.
3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. Pack the ice cream in a container and freeze until ready to serve. Serve about 2 scoops a person.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ QUARTS
COOKING NOTES
Licorice root is sold in health food stores as licorice root bulk tea or chipped licorice; it resembles wood chips. Do not buy licorice root sticks, which are difficult to cut.
In the years since I first wrote about this ice cream, Yogi Tea (www.yogiproducts.com) has come out with licorice tea, in bags. You can use 3 licorice tea bags instead of the licorice root.
MARCH 22, 2000: “TEMPTATION: LICORICE TASTE, IN A PURE FORM,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM GARY DANKO, THE CHEF AND OWNER OF GARY DANKO IN SAN FRANCISCO.
—2000
CANTALOUPE–STAR ANISE SORBET
A good sorbet should taste like an extraction of its main ingredients, and nothing else. It should be gutsier than ice cream, and purer; its flavors don’t have to compete with aerated cream. Cantaloupe has a fragrant but thin flavor and needs something more robust to bolster it. Star anise does the trick, lingering on your palate long after the cantaloupe has swept past.
———
2 very ripe cantaloupes, peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks
12 star anise
¾ cup sugar
1 cup water
¼ cup light corn syrup
1. Puree the cantaloupe until smooth in a food processor. This should yield at least 4 cups.
2. Combine 4 cups cantaloupe puree, the star anise, sugar, water, and corn syrup in a large saucepan, place over medium-low heat, and stir just until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and let infuse for at least 2 hours at room temperature.
3. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing out as much juice as possible. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the sorbet into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
JULY 19, 2000: “IMPROVING ON NATURE: THE SMALL MIRACLE OF SORBET,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM SONO IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2000
BLACKBERRY ICE CREAM WITH CANDIED LEMON ZEST
———
2 lemons
1½ cups sugar
1 cup water
1 quart blackberries
1 tablespoon créme de cassis
1½ cups heavy cream
1. With a vegetable peeler or paring knife, remove the zest from the lemons in long strips and finely chop. Squeeze ¼ cup juice from the lemons.
2. Combine ½ cup sugar and the water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, swirling the pan to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon zest and boil over medium-high heat until the lemon zest is translucent and the syrup forms big, sticky bubbles that cover the surface, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Strain the syrup into a bowl. Reserve the syrup for another use (for example, lemonade or sorbet). Let the zest cool and dry in the sieve.
4. Puree the blackberries in a food processor. Push the pulp through a sieve placed over a large bowl to remove the seeds. Add the remaining 1 cup sugar, cassis, lemon juice, and cream and whisk until blended. Stir in the lemon zest. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.
5. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1½ QUARTS
APRIL 1, 2001: “THE GOOD LIFE: PORCH SONG,” BY MARIALISA CALTA. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM THE FEARRINGTON HOUSE COOKBOOK, BY JENNY FITCH.
—2001
MANGO ICE CREAM
This ice cream couldn’t be easier to make—put it at the top of your recipe life list. After pureeing some sweet mangoes, you blend them with milk, a little sugar, and a lump of crème fraîche, and you are well on your way to bliss. The ice cream is sweet and tangy, with all the fullness of a custard ice cream.
———
1¼ cups whole milk
⅔ cup sugar
3 medium to large ripe mangoes
1 cup crème fraîche
1. Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour the milk into a bowl with a spout, and stir in the sugar until it is dissolved. Let cool.
2. Peel the mangoes and remove the flesh from the seeds. Process the flesh in a food processor until smooth.
3. Add about 2 cups mango puree (reserve the extra for another use) to the milk, along with the crème fraîche; stir until completely blended. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1 QUART
PERIOD DETAIL
By the turn of the twenty-first century, even the humblest foods were getting a thorough examination. As I wrote when I reviewed Mediterranean Street Food, by Anissa Helou, which contained this recipe, “There is a certain absurdity in a cookbook about Mediterranean street food. You imagine the author tracking down a vendor of fried-pork sandwiches, cornering him on the fine points of a recipe that has never been recorded, and then going home and writing a recipe so that it can be prepared in a nonstick pan for a family of four and served on a pretty ceramic platter.” And yet I loved Helou’s book and its recipes; other good street food books and restaurants would follow.
SEPTEMBER 18, 2002: “BY THE BOOK: GLOBAL STREET FARE IS ALIVE WITH FLAVOR,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM MEDITERRANEAN STREET FOOD BY ANISSA HELOU.
—2002
Putting red wine in ice cream is like inserting the principal in a classroom. The cream perks up, the spices sing, and a sudden sense of peace and order takes over the ice cream.
———
2 (750-ml) bottles full-bodied red wine, like cabernet sauvignon
2 cinnamon sticks
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
1¼ cups sugar
9 large egg yolks
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Pour the wine into a large pot and bring to a simmer. Add the cinnamon sticks and peppercorns and simmer until the wine is reduced to 1 cup (it should take about 1 hour).
2. Combine the milk, cream, and half of the sugar in a large saucepan, bring to a boil, and turn off the heat.
3. Whisk together the yolks and remaining sugar in a medium bowl. Temper the yolks by gradually whisking about 1 cup of the hot milk into the yolks, then add this to the pan with the remaining milk. Stir in the salt and vanilla. Whisk in the reduced wine. Set the pan over a bowl full of water and ice to cool.
4. Strain the chilled ice cream base through a fine-mesh strainer, then pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the ice cream to a container and freeze for at least 2 hours before serving.
SERVES 8
NOVEMBER 7, 2004: “LAISSEZ-FARE,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM KAREN DEMASCO, THE PASTRY CHEF AT CRAFT, IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2004
SOUR CREAM ICE CREAM
Much of the flavor of industrial ice cream is masked under a suffocating layer of sweetness. Taste this invigorating version, and you’ll see what I mean.
———
½ cup sugar
¼ cup water
2 cups whole-milk sour cream
1 cup nonfat yogurt
¼ teaspoon salt
Fresh berries for serving (optional)
1. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat over low heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool, about 15 minutes.
2. Combine the sour cream, yogurt, and salt in a large bowl. Pour in the cooled syrup in a thin stream while whisking. When it is well incorporated, transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or, preferably, overnight.
3. Pour the sour cream mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid and freeze for at least 2 hours before serving.
4. Remove the ice cream from the freezer 10 minutes before serving. Serve with fresh berries, if desired.
MAKES 1½ PINTS
AUGUST 10, 2005: “ICE DREAMS, CRYSTALLIZING,” BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE.
—2005
PISTACHIO GELATO
Gelato, as Jill Santopietro, a Times writer, explained, “has less cream, less butterfat to bind to air molecules, and, therefore, less air than American ice cream. A small cup of gelato typically weighs the same as a cup of ice cream double its size.”
This intense pistachio gelato, made with milk, is Sicilian in style. Varieties made with eggs or eggs and some cream can be found farther north. Santopietro warned readers to prepare themselves for a drab green dessert, “the correct color of authentic pistachio gelato.”
For a nonfrozen pistachio dessert, see here.
———
4 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons cornstarch
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup sugar
2 cups toasted unsalted pistachios, finely ground
1. Pour 3 tablespoons milk over the cornstarch in a small bowl and whisk until smooth.
2. Bring the remaining milk to just below a boil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the salt, sugar, and cornstarch mixture and continue whisking until the sugar has dissolved, about 8 minutes. Transfer the pan to an ice bath, a bowl of ice and water, and cool, stirring occasionally. When cool, stir in the pistachios and refrigerate overnight.
3. Strain the mixture, pressing on the nuts to release all the liquid. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately, or pack the gelato into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1 QUART
NOVEMBER 6, 2005: “THE DISH: MOLTO PISTACHIO,” BY JILL SANTOPIETRO.
—2005
GRAPEFRUIT GRANITA
You go to New York’s 4-star fixture Masa for the sushi, not the fruit, but after a twelve-course raw-fish extravaganza there one afternoon, the recipe I wanted to take home with me was the one for this grapefruit granita—a mash-up that’s gentle on the Sauternes and sings with yuzu, a brightly aromatic citrus fruit. The icy shards mingle with tender sections of grapefruit.
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2 cups fresh red or pink grapefruit juice (from about 3 grapefruits), strained
1 cup Sauternes or Champagne
1½ teaspoons sugar, or to taste
1 large red or pink grapefruit
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier
Grated zest of 1 yuzu or 2 limes
1. Combine the juice and Sauternes in a medium bowl. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into an 8-by-10-inch baking pan. Place in the freezer for several hours, or until completely frozen.
2. Meanwhile, peel and segment the grapefruit, discarding the membrane (see here for instructions). Cut each segment into quarters.
3. Scrape the granita with a thin-tined fork to create loose crystals. Transfer to a large airtight container. Stir in the grapefruit segments. Freeze again.
4. To serve, divide the granita among 6 dessert bowls. Pour ½ teaspoon Grand Marnier over each and sprinkle with the zest.
SERVES 6
COOKING NOTE
Yuzu can be found in Asian grocery stores; you may want to call ahead.
NOVEMBER 27, 2005: “FOOD: EAT, MEMORY: THE IDEOLOGY OF TASTE,” BY ROY BLOUNT JR. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM MASA IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2005
ALMOND GRANITA
With granita, there is no need for a machine, just a spoon, a freezer, and some elbow grease for breaking the ice sheets into fine crystals. At A Voce, in New York, where the almond granita was created, it’s served cushioned between crackly layers of crushed amaretti.
———
14 ounces almond paste, broken into pieces
4 cups water
2¼ cups whole milk
Pinch of ground cinnamon
About 20 amaretti cookies, crushed into small pieces and crumbs
1. Combine the almond paste, water, and milk in a large saucepan. Set over medium heat; as it warms, use the back of a spoon or a potato masher to crush and dissolve the paste. When the mixture begins to steam—before it boils—take it off the heat.
2. Let the mixture cool slightly, then carefully whiz with an immersion blender until the paste is fully incorporated (or pour into a regular blender and blend well). Pour into a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. Let drain completely, without pressing on the solids.
3. When the milk mixture is cool, add the cinnamon. Pour into a shallow baking pan and freeze. Check after about 30 minutes; when it begins to get icy, use the back of a large spoon to press down on the mixture and break it into pieces. Repeat several times over the next 2 hours, until the granita is fully frozen but broken into shards.
4. To serve, place 1½ tablespoons crushed amaretti cookies in the bottom of each glass, followed by a serving of granita, and top with 2 more tablespoons crushed cookies.
SERVES 8
JULY 16, 2006: “THE ARSENAL,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM A VOCE IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2006
STRAWBERRY SORBET
This strawberry sorbet comes from Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray, the owners of the River Café in London. It’s as brilliant as it is unconventional: a whole lemon (rind and all) is ground up, sweetened with crushed strawberries, and then enlivened with some fresh lemon juice. The resulting sorbet is wildly bright and jungly. (If you like its flavor, then make the Raspberry Granita here next.)
———
1 lemon, halved, seeded, and roughly chopped
2 cups sugar
2 pounds strawberries, washed and hulled
Juice of 1 to 2 lemons
1. Place the chopped lemon and sugar in a food processor and pulse until combined. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Puree the strawberries in the food processor, and add to the lemon mixture, along with the juice of 1 lemon. Taste and add more juice as desired. The lemon flavor should be intense but should not overpower the strawberries.
3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1½ QUARTS
JULY 16, 2006: “THE ARSENAL” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM LONDON RIVER CAFÉ COOK BOOK, BY RUTH ROGERS AND ROSE GRAY.
—2006
CHERRY SPUMONI
Denise Landis, whose ice cream recipe this is, is the unsung hero of the Dining section. Every week since 1989, the Times food writers and editors have sent her batches of recipes—often with panicked pleas to have them back in twenty-four hours—and she takes these scribblings and tests them and shapes them into something that you and I could make for dinner.
Landis is a writer too, and for a few years, she had a Times column called “Test Kitchen,” for which she’d test-drive cookware and appliances. This recipe comes from a column on ice cream makers. (She preferred the Salton Big Chill ice cream maker.) Ordering the cherry concentrate is worth it—the resulting ice cream has depth and waves of rich cherry flavor.
———
¾ cup whole milk
¾ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
¾ cup half-and-half
1½ cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
3 tablespoons tart cherry concentrate
½ cup packed frozen pitted tart (sour) or sweet cherries, defrosted, or canned pitted tart or sweet cherries (do not use fresh fruit)
6 tablespoons slivered or sliced blanched almonds
6 tablespoons chopped semisweet chocolate or chocolate chips
1. Place the milk in a small heavy saucepan and heat over medium heat until bubbles just begin to form around the edges of the pan. Remove from the heat, add the sugar and salt, and stir until dissolved. Add the half-and-half, heavy cream, vanilla, almond extract, and cherry concentrate and mix well. Transfer to a bowl and set in an ice water bath until cool, about 10 minutes.
2. Coarsely chop the cherries, and press them between paper towels to remove excess liquid. Add to the chilled milk mixture.
3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and begin freezing according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When the ice cream has begun to thicken, after about 10 minutes, add the almonds and chopped chocolate. Continue freezing until done. Pack into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
MAKES 1½ QUARTS
COOKING NOTE
Tart cherry concentrate is available from www.tartissmart.com; (509)488-1049.
AUGUST 16, 2006: “TEST KITCHEN: CHURNING OUT ICE CREAM TILL THE SUNDAE AFTER NEXT,” BY DENISE LANDIS.
—2006
SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM
This ice cream comes from Nicole Kaplan, one of the most talented pastry chefs in New York City. Kaplan’s style is understated. She never grasps for attention with cascading garnishes or esoteric flavors, she just takes flavors we all love and makes them better than we thought possible. See her Two-Day Madeleines with Brown Butter here.
If you can’t get enough of salt and caramel, try the Salted Butter Caramels here.
———
1¼ cups sugar
2 teaspoons light corn syrup
2 cups heavy cream, preferably organic
2 cups whole milk
10 large egg yolks
½ teaspoon fleur de sel, plus more for serving
1. Place ¾ cup sugar and the corn syrup in a large heavy saucepan and cook over medium-high heat—do not stir—to a dark caramel, swirling as it begins to brown to distribute the sugar. Carefully pour in the cream, then slowly add the milk. The caramel will harden; don’t panic. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring, just until the caramel has dissolved. Remove from the heat.
2. Whisk together the remaining ½ cup sugar, egg yolks, and fleur de sel in a large bowl. Whisk a little caramel cream into the egg mixture to temper it, then pour the egg mixture into the remaining caramel cream and mix. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, or, preferably, overnight.
3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the ice cream in a container and freeze until ready to serve.
4. Serve the ice cream sprinkled with fleur de sel.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
COOKING NOTE
This makes a mean milk shake—just combine with whole milk in a blender and whiz away—my kids and I have even made it with great success in their toy blender.
OCTOBER 8, 2006: “THE WAY WE EAT: SALT WITH A DEADLY WEAPON,” BY CHRISTINE MUHLKE. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM NICOLE KAPLAN, THE PASTRY CHEF AT ELEVEN MADISON PARK, NEW YORK.
—2006
ALMOND AND BUTTERMILK SORBET
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
1¼ cups sugar
¼ cup light corn syrup
½ cup unblanched whole almonds
2 cups buttermilk, shaken to blend
½ teaspoon almond extract
1. Combine the lemon juice, 1 cup sugar, and the corn syrup in a small saucepan, place over medium-low heat, and simmer until the sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature.
2. Meanwhile, place the almonds in a small dry skillet over medium heat. Shake until the nuts are fragrant and evenly toasted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.
3. Put the almonds and the remaining ¼ cup sugar in a food processor or blender and process to a powder; set aside.
4. Stir the cooled lemon syrup, buttermilk, and almond extract together in a bowl. Refrigerate until well chilled.
5. Transfer the buttermilk mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the sorbet into a container and freeze until ready to serve.
6. Serve the sorbet in small bowls, with the almond and sugar topping.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
JUNE 6, 2007: “THE MINIMALIST; IN PARIS, BRINGING VEGETABLES OUT TO PLAY,” BY MARK BITTMAN. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM VEGETABLE HARVEST, BY PATRICIA WELLS.
—2007
VANILLA PLUM ICE
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1 vanilla bean
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
½ cup dry white wine
¼ cup water
1½ pounds ripe plums, pitted and chopped
Salt
Small sprigs mint for garnish
1. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and place the bean and seeds in a small saucepan. Add the sugar, white wine, and water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves. Steep over low heat for 5 minutes, then cool completely; remove the vanilla bean.
2. Combine the plums, cooled syrup, and a dash of salt in a blender and puree. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve set over a baking dish.
3. Put the mixture in the freezer and scrape with a fork every 15 to 20 minutes, as it chills, until the texture is light and fluffy. Serve in small bowls, garnished with mint.
SERVES 8
AUGUST 26, 2007: “THE INDUSTRY: CHILL SEEKERS,” BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE.
—2007
TANGERINE SHERBET
Bright and peppy tangerine meets languorous cream and it’s love at first sight.
———
½ teaspoon powdered gelatin
About 2 teaspoons water
2¼ pounds tangerines
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup very cold heavy cream
1. Drop the gelatin and water into a small saucepan and turn your back on it. Strip the zest from 2 tangerines with a Microplane or a zester, or, if you aren’t that kind of person, a regular potato peeler. Toss the zest into a bowl (if you used a potato peeler, give it a rough chop first), and squeeze in enough juice from the tangerines, even the naked ones, to make 1½ cups, removing any seeds.
2. Remembering the saucepan, put a little heat under it until the gelatin starts to look smooth, not grainy. Stir in the sugar, salt, and juice and zest and turn up the heat, letting it come to something like the temperature of your finger. Stir to make sure the sugar is dissolved, then chill in the refrigerator.
3. When the juice mixture is cold, strain out the zest and toss the juice into the tank of your ice cream maker, along with the cream (which should be cold too). Do whatever you usually do with your ice cream maker until you have a creamy sherbet. With luck, you will have an extra hour to chill the sherbet before serving it. Tiny spoons will make it last longer, but not much longer. You might think about making twice as much.
MAKES 3 TO 4 CUPS
JANUARY 4, 2009: “COOKING WITH DEXTER: ORANGE GENIUS” BY PETE WELLS. RECIPE ADAPTED, WITH SIGNIFICANT LIBERTIES, FROM CHEZ PANISSE FRUIT, BY ALICE WATERS AND THE COOKS OF CHEZ PANISSE.
—2009
