Highly prized in all cultures, beautiful skin is a sign of youth, health, and vitality. According to traditional Chinese practice, this crucial aspect of your appearance can be attained by combining external regimens with internal ones.
In China, glowing, toned skin is regarded as a prime indicator of overall good health, strong circulation, and good chi. In contrast, here in the West we focus on what we put on our faces, not what we put in our bodies. As a result, no matter how expensive the lotion, it is bound to fail, for nothing can replace the inner glow that comes from abundant health.
Diet is the key component of the Tao of beauty. The food you eat has everything to do with the way you look. Some foods improve the condition of your skin enormously; others can harm it when eaten in excess. As you know from Chapter 4, poor digestion, constipation, erratic sleeping habits, and unsettled emotions, not to mention external issues such as air pollution, can take their toll on your body and consequently your beauty. How then, with all this assault, can you reclaim the youthful appearance you desire? It’s easier than you think, once you accept the dictum that balance is everything.
The concepts of hot and cold energy in foods and how their respective yin or yang qualities (alone and synergistically) can affect us have already been introduced. Understanding your own beauty-wellness profile from Chapter 2 and learning how to achieve the best possible balance for your ever-changing body chemistry are key to achieving the skin you seek. Cosmetics and topical applications are helpful, to be sure, but the place to start is with your diet.
When clients come into my salon, they are surprised that I spend more time discussing what they eat than I do telling them about skin care and cosmetics. As you wouldn’t put makeup on a dirty face, you cannot cover up a lifetime of bad eating habits. This is a radically different concept from what is generally taught in the West, but believe me, it’s true.
Sandra is the perfect example. Tall and slender, she could have been quite beautiful except for the rampant acne that no amount of foundation could disguise. She sauntered into my salon with an obvious chip on her shoulder. Before I could even say hello, she snapped, “Give me something for my skin. I don’t care what it is, I know it won’t work anyway.”
As I asked her questions, I began to understand her cynical attitude. Plagued with acne since she was a teenager, she had gone from salon to salon and dermatologist to dermatologist for years. No matter how much money she spent, nothing had worked. She was now a successful lawyer, and she felt her blemished skin was detracting from her work performance.
I understood how she felt and started immediately to analyze her problem, which was certainly more than skin deep. Her chi, which was primarily hot, was seriously out of balance.
First, I asked what she used to wash her face. Just as I suspected, she was using a commercial cleanser with far too much oil for her skin type. As a result, her face was never really getting clean. The lingering dead skin cells blocked her pores, exacerbating ingrown facial hairs that she had to tweeze to remove.
Sandra told me that she had dry skin, and the surface was certainly patchy and parched. But I explained to her that the dehydrated skin was actually layers of dead cells that adhered to the skin’s surface because of its excess oiliness. She had been using astringent products in an attempt to stop oiliness and, as a result, had stimulated oil production. I started her on a regimen of balanced skin-care products that would correct this—including a gentle ginseng-mint cleanser, the Chamomile-Mint Toner on this page and the Honey-Lemon Moisturizing Treatment on this page. I also recommended that she use the Chrysanthemum-Chamomile Mask (this page) to deep-clean her oily—rather than dry, as she had thought—skin. This would dissipate the heat of her blemishes and promote the natural exfoliation and renewal of her complexion.
Under this new regimen of skin care and diet, Sandra’s skin showed improvement almost immediately and cleared up completely within a few weeks. It’s stayed that way, too. More importantly, her yin and yang energies were back in balance—she was relaxed and happy!
While most beauty books deal only with the surface of the skin, The Tao of Beauty starts with the chi energy of your body. The only way to keep this flowing without interruption is by nourishing every organ in the body. In this chapter, I’ll discuss the organ that affects beauty the most—the skin. The most important elements of beautiful skin are proper diet, elimination, rest, and topical skin care.
The foods listed below are known to nourish the organs of the body that influence the condition of the skin, particularly the lungs and large intestine. As I explained in Chapter 1, the skin is the tissue related to these organs. The skin is the body’s largest organ, key to the elimination of toxins and body waste through perspiration, the heart and circulatory system, as well as the entire digestive tract. Be aware that some foods can be helpful in treating one skin condition but irritating to another. For example, pineapple, which restores moisture to the body, hydrating dry, rough skin, is too acidic for anyone with acne. You’ll find more specific food recommendations in the explanation of care for each skin type.
FOODS THAT PROMOTE HEALTHY SKIN
Fruits and nuts: Asian pears, bananas, blackberries, cherries, crabapples, lemons, melons, papayas, plums, Chinese red and black dates.
Vegetables: adzuki beans, avocados, bean sprouts, broccoli and other dark green vegetables, carrots, celery, chickpeas, chicory, cucumbers, dandelion flowers, garlic, ginger, green beans, leeks, lentils, black beans, mung beans, onions, pumpkins, radishes, seaweed (especially arame, hijiki, and kelp), spinach, sweet potatoes, water chestnuts, watercress, winter squashes.
Grains and seeds: black sesame seeds, brown rice, millet, sunflower seeds, whole grains.
Proteins: chicken, clams, fish (especially low-fat white fish such as cod, haddock, flounder and scrod).
Miscellaneous: cinnamon bark, goldenseal, honey, honeysuckle, licorice root, mint, nettles, peppermint, red clover, safflower oil, sharkfin, wood ear fungus, all foods with high collagen.
FOODS TO AVOID
Alcoholic and carbonated beverages, caffeine, canned and refined foods (including tuna), cheese and other dairy products, eggs, fatty foods, nut butters, red meat, sugary foods and drinks, white flour, white pasta.
The following chart outlines the suggested beauty regimen for your skin type or condition. I’ve included recipes for these topical treatments as well as for nourishing foods and teas that will bring health and balance to your skin. Include as many of these foods as possible into your diet. They are listed above and in the sections that discuss specific skin conditions.
Cleansers and scrubs, toners, moisturizers, masks, and baths are to be used as needed, some daily or weekly, as part of your regular skin-care routine, or as indicated by the condition of your skin.
One of the signs of a wonderful energy balance is normal skin—skin that is neither too dry nor too oily, too sensitive, nor too rough.
The main thing to remember is that although you may be balanced today, tomorrow your skin may erupt or get a bit dry. You may notice that when you are menstruating, your skin breaks out a bit, or if you’re upset or under stress at work, your skin may become dry. Your task is to avert skin problems by maintaining balanced chi throughout your body.
Betsy, a nurse in her forties, told me that she maintains her beautifully balanced complexion by eating a balanced diet and having weekly facials, which include the Honey-Apricot Mask on this page. She doesn’t smoke, and she stays out of smoky environments as much as possible. Betsy never sunbathes, and also uses sunscreen whenever she’s outside, regardless of the time of year.
Hostile factors in our environment—pollution, for example—and overwrought emotions are not the only causes of problems for normal skin. Chinese medicine recognizes that an individual’s inherited energy system (genetics) plays a large part in determining how we handle the many distresses in our lives. Your lifestyle and work, exercise, and diet all play a part in maintaining health and beauty. Of these, Chinese experts consider diet to be the most important.
Although the following recipes are designed to maintain the balance of normal skin, they can be used by anyone, regardless of skin type or condition.
Neutral foods—like salmon and asparagus—star in this beautifully balanced entrée. Asparagus, as well as the almonds that garnish this delicate dish, are known to moisturize lung tissue, which improves skin quality and helps you maintain a dewy, youthful look.
Makes 2 to 4 main-dish servings
Seasoning Mix
¼ cup soy sauce
½ cup white wine, rice wine, or sherry
1 teaspoon sugar
1 pound salmon steak, 1 inch thick, cut into ½-inch strips (see NOTE)
4 to 6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
6 to 8 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1½-inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced into 6 to 8 pieces
1 or 2 dried red chili peppers, seeds and membranes removed (optional)
3 to 4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 bunch (about 1 pound) thin asparagus spears, ends removed and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ cup toasted almond slivers, for garnish
Combine Seasoning Mix ingredients in a large glass bowl. Add the salmon and toss gently to coat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and marinate 15 minutes.
Divide garlic, scallions, ginger, and pepper into two equal portions. Drain the fish and reserve half of the marinade (discard the other half).
Heat oil in a wok or iron skillet over medium heat. Add half of the garlic, scallions, ginger, and pepper and stir quickly to release flavors. Add the drained fish and stir-fry over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until about half done. Add remaining garlic, scallions, ginger, and pepper, and asparagus; stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the reserved marinade; reduce heat to low and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, until fish and asparagus are cooked.
Garnish with almond slivers. Serve over rice, if desired.
NOTE: You can use tuna or any other lean, thick fish; boneless chicken breasts; or, for vegetarians, firm tofu with excess water pressed out.
Chinese women traditionally eat walnuts with rice as a breakfast “beauty food.” Walnuts are high in nutritious oils similar to the body’s natural oils, which lubricate without clogging the skin. When applied topically, walnuts have the same effect without the extra calories. Yogurt is great for maintaining the body’s natural acid mantle, which combats the free radicals that age your skin.
Makes 1 treatment
¼ cup finely chopped walnuts
¼ cup plain yogurt
In a blender mix the walnuts thoroughly with the yogurt. Wet your face, then rub gently into your skin to cleanse and exfoliate, taking care to avoid the delicate tissue around your eyes. Rinse off with tepid water and pat face dry with a soft towel.
Chrysanthemum (Chrisantemum leucanthemum)
Chrysanthemum flowers and mint, taken internally, help the body withstand heat. Applied externally, they cool any hot energy in the skin and maintain balance in your body. The remaining ingredients in this special toning lotion help to exfoliate dead cells and bring life to your complexion. You can even drink this as a tea with just the smallest touch of honey.
Makes 7 to 10 applications
1 tablespoon dried chrysanthemum petals (see NOTE)
1 tablespoon dried chamomile flowers (see NOTE)
1 tablespoon buckwheat
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium-sized glass or enamel saucepan. Reduce heat and add all the herbs and buckwheat, then simmer for 30 minutes. Cool; strain mixture through a sieve and discard herbs. Add lemon juice to the liquid and stir to mix.
To use, pour 1 to 2 tablespoons into a glass bowl and apply to the face with cotton balls once or twice a day (do not use directly from bottle to prevent contamination). Store in a tightly closed glass container in refrigerator for up to 1 week.
NOTE: Dried chrysanthemum petals and dried chamomile are available in herb shops and health foods stores or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
This moisturizing mixture is truly a meeting of East and West. Ginseng has properties that maintain the skin’s natural acid mantle, while the eggs and oil in the mayonnaise act as humectants to attract water into the cells.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons ginseng powder (see NOTE)
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
Mix the ginseng powder with the mayonnaise in a small bowl or cup, stirring thoroughly. Apply to your freshly scrubbed face; let sit for 5 minutes, then wash off. Pat face dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Ginseng powder is available in Asian markets and health food stores.
For those with normal or balanced skin, here’s a marvelous neutral mask that will hydrate and soften your skin at the same time. It’s not just for your face! Use it all over your body for soft, glowing skin.
Makes 1 facial or body treatment
½ cup honey
2 apricots, peeled and coarsely chopped
Measure honey into a glass bowl. Add the apricots and mix together with a wooden spoon. Apply to your face and neck, massaging gently with your fingertips. Leave on 10 minutes. Rinse off with tepid water. Pat skin dry with a soft towel.
If using as a body treatment, apply to your body while sitting in the tub, then rinse off in the shower. If need be, double the recipe, but you’ll be surprised at how liquid the honey becomes when it is mixed with the fruit and warmed by your body.
Chinese doctors have used wine on the body for ages. Because of its naturally acidic properties, wine is now being used by Western cosmetic companies. It has been renamed alpha-hydroxyl acid, and it comes with a hefty price tag! This warm wine bath will not only take away that chilled-to-the-bone feeling that comes with wintertime but also restore your skin’s natural acid mantle. This is powerful protection against pollution and a great treatment for sunburn.
Makes 1 bath treatment
1 bottle white wine
1 cup coarse sea salt
Heat the wine in a saucepan while running the water into your tub. Dissolve the sea salt under the running water, and when the wine is hot, pour it into the tub.
Climb into the tub and soak. You’ll be relaxed and warmed … especially if you’ve sampled some of the wine before adding it to your bath!
Typically, those of you with oily skin have warmer (yang) tendencies. A higher level of oil secretion generally accompanies this. While women with this skin type are fortunate in that they often avoid fine lines and wrinkles, they do suffer from acne, skin problems such as blackheads and whiteheads, and enlarged pores. The goal of Chinese medicine is to cool down the internal organs and regulate oil production by eating the right foods and avoiding the wrong ones, and by using topical herbal treatments to cool the surface of the skin.
I recommend that clients who have oily skin consume the following fruits frequently: apples, bananas, dates, pears, plums, and strawberries. Fresh apple juice, with a slice of lemon if you like, can also be enjoyed, as well as pear, starfruit, strawberry, or watermelon juice. The following cool-energy vegetables are also excellent: carrots, cucumbers, daikon radishes, lettuce, peas, spinach, and water chestnuts. Herbs that help balance oily skin include chamomile, chrysanthemum, dandelion flowers, garlic, honeysuckle, and peppermint. Be sure to drink plenty of plain water to hydrate your body. Teas, juices, and soups help, but they’re not the same.
If you have oily skin, avoid or eliminate the following foods: citrus fruits, sweet basil, cloves, Chinese parsley (coriander), caraway seeds, mangoes, and hot peppers. Avoid fried foods, fats, sweets, foods containing fungus and yeast, and processed foods, including most breads and pasta.
If your skin is oily, resist the temptation to use alcohol-based cleaning and toning products on your face. These will remove excess oil, to be sure, but will trick the sebaceous glands in your skin into thinking they have not done their job properly, because alcohol removes too much oil. As a result, these oil-producing glands will work overtime to make sure your skin—especially your face—has enough oil to stay pliant and moist. This sets off a vicious cycle that results in damaged, sometimes painful, skin. To keep this from happening, use cleansing products that soothe and cool the skin.
This is a splendid hot-weather soup with cooling properties that everyone will enjoy, regardless of skin type. It is especially good for those with oily skin and anyone who suffers from frequent rashes or skin irritation. You can jazz this up by adding a tomato, peeled and coarsely chopped.
Makes 4 appetizer or 2 main-dish servings
2 medium cucumbers
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 small green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
A few small pieces of ice
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
Peel cucumbers and cut them in half lengthwise. Using the tip of a spoon, scrape out the seeds and discard. Coarsely chop into 1-inch pieces. Place half of the cucumbers, garlic, bell pepper, onion, and a few pieces of ice in the container of a blender or food processor (the ice chills and helps liquefy the mixture). Process until the soup is somewhat smooth. Add the remaining half of the ingredients and process again. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Serve immediately in chilled soup bowls.
The barley gently exfoliates without leaving your skin feeling raw like many commercial scrubs do. The yogurt maintains the skin’s natural pH, which helps correct excess oil production. Strawberries are full of vitamin C, which applied topically, will help prevent skin from aging.
Makes 1 treatment
¼ cup raw barley flakes
½ cup strawberry yogurt
Process uncooked barley with the strawberry yogurt in a blender. Gently work into your skin, taking care to avoid the delicate tissues around the eyes. Leave on for 2 minutes, then rinse off with tepid water and pat face dry with a soft towel.
Here is a wonderful, natural, alcohol-free toner you can safely apply to sensitive, broken-out areas several times a day. Chamomile and mint leaves are soothing to even the most sensitive skin. This light, fragrant liquid cools the hot energy that radiates from your skin and controls excess facial oil.
Makes 7 to 10 applications
1 tablespoon dried chamomile leaves (or 1 tea bag)
1 tablespoon dried mint or ¼ cup chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Bring 2 cups of water to a rolling boil in a medium-sized glass or enamel saucepan, and add the chamomile and mint. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to ½ cup. Cool and strain liquid. Discard herbs. Add the lemon juice; stir to blend. Refrigerate in a glass bottle with a tightly fitting lid for up to one week.
To use, pour 1 to 2 tablespoons into a glass bowl and apply toner to the face with cotton balls once or twice a day (do not use directly from bottle to avoid contamination).
Although it may seem odd, honey has been used as a moisturizer for centuries. A natural humectant, it will heal abrasions, soothe roughness, and relieve redness without adding any unnecessary oils. Lemon is a natural astringent that complements the honey’s action and restores the skin’s natural acid mantle that soaps wash away. When used on damp skin, this moisturizer instantly liquefies and is not sticky.
Makes 1 treatment
1 tablespoon raw honey
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Mix honey and lemon juice in a glass bowl. Wet your face, then gently massage the mixture into your skin. Leave on for 3 minutes. Rinse well with tepid water and pat face dry with a soft towel.
For deep cleansing, use this softly scented chrysanthemum-chamomile mask to make sure that your skin is taut and toned. This is especially good for oily skin, as it cleans the pores without stimulating oil production. Use weekly for great results.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons dried chrysanthemum petals (see NOTE)
2 tablespoons dried chamomile flowers (see NOTE)
2 tablespoons dried dandelion flowers (see NOTE)
2 tablespoons dried mint
2 tablespoons buckwheat
2 tablespoons kaolin or French clay (see NOTE)
Grind the herbs and the buckwheat into a powder using either a mortar and pestle or a blender. Add the kaolin and 4 to 5 tablespoons of hot water, a tablespoon at a time, while mixing into a paste.
Apply as a facial mask once a week, taking care to avoid the delicate skin around the eyes. Let dry for 30 minutes. Rinse off with tepid water. Pat face dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Kaolin and French clay are both available in health food stores and many large drugstores and cosmetics shops. The dried flowers are available at herb shops and many large health food stores or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
Typically found in people with overactive oil glands, acne is the result of an excess secretion of oil on the surface of the skin that clogs pores and attracts germs to the skin’s surface. This unhappy alliance prohibits proper production of the skin’s natural oils and results in the bumps we call acne.
When acne appears it is usually the result of a high yang (hot-energy) syndrome, especially during adolescence. The recipes in this chapter can help tone down the fire-red blemishes of youth. Unfortunately, acne doesn’t just plague the young. Consider Sandra, the attorney who came into my salon complaining of both acne and dry skin (this page). Stress, hormonal imbalances, clogged pores, and radical climate changes can all cause acne, no matter what your age.
Although it is always tempting, you should never try to break those boil-like blemishes at home, as the unfortunate result may well be lifelong scarring. A dermatologist or licensed skin-care professional trained in extraction and sterilization is definitely worth the expense in this case. In addition to seeing a health-care professional, I also recommend taking a multivitamin complex. A vitamin program for acne should contain the following:
• Vitamin A, which reduces the amount of fatty substances or sebum in the skin that can block pores and cause blackheads
• Vitamin B complex, which calms the nerves
• Vitamin C, which dilates blood vessels and increases circulation
Ideally, these vitamins should come from natural sources—vitamin A from yellow fruits and vegetables, the B vitamins from meats and whole grains, and vitamin C from citrus fruits, rose hips, and other vegetables and fruits.
Naturally, you should consult a professional before starting any program of supplements. The minimum daily requirements of these vitamins, which you will find on the label, should be sufficient.
Even though they have cooling energy, bamboo shoots—which can be found in cans, sliced, or in chunks, in most Asian markets—are especially good skin detoxifiers. They have one drawback in that they have properties that cause bumps under the skin to erupt, so you won’t want to eat them the day before a big date. When my sisters and I had the measles, our mother gave us bamboo shoots to bring out all the bumps at once rather than waiting for them to come out a few at a time. This speeded our recovery time. If you are acne-prone, I wouldn’t recommend eating bamboo shoots but would, instead, work internally to cure the problem.
Many herbs also act as anti-acne agents. These include eucalyptus, garlic, honeysuckle blossoms, dandelion flowers, chickweed, goldenseal, calendula, marigold, myrrh, thyme, and yellow dock, to name a few. These herbs can be brewed as teas and consumed as one would any other tea.
Whatever your age, if you have acne breakouts, be sure to avoid spicy, fried foods and herbs like chives and star anise—which is easy to do in the standard American diet.
Pour this delicious drink into a tall glass and enjoy it once a day, especially when a skin flare-up occurs. It has a cool, calming energy to put out the fire that causes this problem. You can use any kind of plain yogurt—regular or nonfat—to ease your skin from the inside out.
Makes 1 serving
1 apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
1 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon honey
Process the apple with the yogurt and honey in a blender until smooth—you can add water to thin the smoothie, if desired.
This gently abrasive, slightly acidic cleanser is ideal for the acne sufferer. It helps unclog pores and regulate the skin’s oil production.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons raw barley flakes or oatmeal
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon raw honey
Mix the raw barley with the lime juice and let sit for 5 minutes while the barley softens; then add honey. Stir thoroughly. Apply to wet face and gently massage, taking care to avoid the delicate tissue around the eyes. Rinse with tepid water and pat face dry with a soft towel.
This easy-to-make skin toner is especially good for anyone with acne or other skin problems usually associated with oily skin. It’s astringent without being drying and adds vitamin C to tender blemishes to promote healing.
Makes 7 to 10 treatments
1 vitamin C tablet, crushed
1 lemon
1 lime
Bring ½ cup of water to a boil. Remove from heat and add the crushed vitamin C tablet. Stir until dissolved. Allow to cool.
Squeeze the juice from the lemon and the lime and discard all seeds. Strain the juice into the cooled liquid, and stir until completely mixed. Pour into a small glass bottle, and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. To use, pour 1 to 2 tablespoons into a glass bowl and apply to the skin with cotton balls once or twice daily. Rinse with cool water before going out into the sun.
Aloe vera (Aloe socotrina)
Lavender is a natural antiseptic and antibacterial herb. Aloe vera juice soothes and promotes healing. Together, they help the skin hold moisture quite wonderfully.
Makes 1 treatment
Bring ½ cup of water to a boil. Add the dried lavender and steep until cool. Strain and discard the flowers. Add the aloe to the liquid and stir thoroughly.
Apply with cotton balls to the face or the body as needed—it does not need to be rinsed off. It is particularly good if left on overnight. This moisturizer does not keep well—make a fresh batch each time.
NOTE: Dried lavender is available from most herb shops and health food stores or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
This mask is perfect for reviving acne-plagued skin, especially after a night out. The mint cuts oil and stimulates skin, while the clay draws out oil and impurities from your skin.
Makes 1 treatment
1 teaspoon dried mint, or 1 mint tea bag
4 tablespoons kaolin or French clay (see NOTE)
Boil 1 cup of water and add the dried mint or tea bag. Steep until cool. Put the clay into a glass bowl, and add the peppermint tea, teaspoon by teaspoon, stirring until smooth—it should have the consistency of yogurt. Pat evenly on your face, avoiding the delicate tissue around the eyes, and on your body, as desired. Let dry 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse off, using tepid water, and pat skin dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Kaolin and French clay are both available in health food stores and many large drugstores and cosmetics shops.
Dry skin secretes less oil than other skin types. Women with this type of skin are more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. While dry skin is, in large part, hereditary, you can adjust this condition and improve the look of your parched epidermis almost immediately through diet.
Rachel is a great example of this problem. Thirty-five years old, five feet tall and a bit skinny, she was in my salon for a few moments before I even realized she was there. She was quite shy, and it took some intensive probing before she would answer my questions. Her younger sister was getting married within the week, and Rachel was feeling very old, as she saw every line on her face increase with each passing day. She wanted a quick cure, something that would miraculously restore what she felt was her rapidly fading youth.
Of course, I asked her first about her diet. She was so afraid of gaining weight, she had eliminated all fats and oils from her diet.
While most skin types are hereditary, there was much Rachel could do to help herself. The most difficult part was convincing her to add avocados and good oils to her diet. She promised to try them for a week, but that was all. I gave her a list of foods to eat and foods to avoid, and gave her some topical creams to help ease the pain of her dry skin. She was dubious when she left, but she had tried everything else. She decided that she might as well give this a try. By the end of the week, she called me with marvelous news. For the first time in years, she could wash her face without it hurting—her skin had been so dry that even the most gentle cleanser and water stung. She went to the wedding, feeling confident and looking radiant. She was so amazed by the results that she promised to stick to the program I had given her.
Your diet can have a marked effect in counterbalancing dry skin. The best foods to eat are adzuki beans, papaya, ginseng, dang quai, honey, black sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, black and yellow soybeans, and ginger. Also consider jelly-textured foods, which help to maintain the skin’s elasticity—royal jelly, meat tendons, shark’s fin, gelatin, and bone marrow are all natural elasticity boosters.
If you suffer from dry skin, you should eat less of the following foods, which can exacerbate the condition: apples, grapefruits, strawberries, pears, tomatoes, hops (a prime ingredient in beer), radishes, vinegar, and hard liquor.
If your skin is especially dry and tender, you will benefit from a meal that starts with this amazing soup. Made with foods that are known to be balanced and cooling, this soup will ease painful itching and irritation.
Makes 6 appetizer or 4 main-dish servings
4 potatoes
1 onion
3 stalks celery
2 carrots
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Peel and chop the vegetables into ½-inch pieces. Place the vegetables and garlic in a large enamel saucepan and add 6 to 8 cups of water. Bring to a rolling boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until the liquid is reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper.
Oatmeal has long been used to soothe and nourish the skin while gently exfoliating it. You can cook it especially for this scrub, but I just put aside a little bit of my morning oatmeal and use that! The honey soothes, heals, and gives your skin much-needed moisture.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons raw honey
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal
Mix the honey with the cooled oatmeal. Wet your face and gently massage the mixture into your face and neck, taking care to avoid the delicate tissue around the eyes. Rinse off with tepid water and pat face dry with a soft towel.
Slippery elm makes a great tea; use it when you’ve been speaking a lot or have a sore throat. It has also been used traditionally for lubricating without oil and for soothing abrasions. Rather than buying slippery elm bark and preparing it in a time-consuming process, I buy a widely marketed slippery elm tea at the health food store.
Makes 1 treatment
1 teabag Throat-Coat tea (see NOTE)
Boil 1 cup of water and add tea bag. Steep until water is cool. Splash over face and body; this does not need to be washed off. However, this splash must be made fresh every time you use it.
NOTE: Throat-Coat tea is widely available in health food stores and in many drugstores and grocery stores.
Historically, ginseng has been more treasured than gold, for as the ancients said, it “holds the secret to eternal youth.” Ginseng’s health-fortifying qualities are legendary. Paired with the emollient properties of sweet almonds, this lotion will nourish and protect your dry skin from the elements.
Makes 8 to 10 applications
1 piece ginseng root, approximately 2 to 3 inches in length
½ cup almond oil
1 tablespoon honey
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons grated beeswax
1 tablespoon liquid lanolin (see NOTE)
½ teaspoon almond extract
Pour 3 cups of water into a glass saucepan and add the whole ginseng root. Bring liquid to a boil, cover, reduce temperature, and simmer over low heat for 2 hours, or until root is soft and the liquid is reduced to 1 cup.
Remove root and set liquid aside. Chop the cooked ginseng root as finely as possible. Return chopped ginseng root and 1 cup ginseng liquid to saucepan and add the almond oil. Simmer gently about 1 hour, or until liquid is reduced to ½ cup. Let cool.
Strain the liquid into a glass bowl, discarding the ginseng. Add the honey, baking soda, grated beeswax, and liquid lanolin. Pour back into the saucepan and heat gently until the wax is melted. Stir to blend. When wax is thoroughly melted, add the almond extract and stir again.
Pour this mixture into a clean, dry glass jar. Allow to cool completely. Stir again, then cover. Store in refrigerator for 10 days to 2 weeks.
To use, massage lightly into the skin to restore moisture. Remove any excess with cotton balls. Use in the morning and again at night.
NOTE: Liquid lanolin is available in health food stores and many large drugstores.
Start your day off with this refreshing wake-up mask. I often used it on those mornings when I had long hours in front of the camera ahead of me. All dryness is erased, and my skin is left feeling and looking sparkling and soft … and free of aging toxins. If your skin is especially dry, you will find this alcohol-free toning mask especially helpful in removing wrinkles and easing dryness.
Makes 1 treatment
1 starfruit, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3 to 4 tablespoons rice flour
3 tablespoons sweet almond oil
Place the starfruit in a glass bowl. Add the lemon juice and stir to mix. Add rice flour, a tablespoon at a time, and stir to mix. Add sweet almond oil to form an oatmeal-like paste.
Using your fingertips, pat this mixture onto your face, taking care to avoid the delicate tissue around your eyes. Leave on face for 10 minutes, then rinse off with tepid water, rubbing gently with a soft cloth. Pat face dry with a soft towel.
In the Chinese way of thinking, combination skin—when that T-shaped zone across your forehead and down your nose is oily and the rest of your face is dry or normal—may be a signal that your body is out of balance. Most skin-care products that are used to control oiliness are too harsh for the rest of your face, and products created for dry and normal skin are not effective when treating oiliness.
The good news is that once you have cleansed your body of toxins and begun to nourish and regenerate it so that it becomes balanced, this condition corrects itself. Whole foods and herbs have astounding properties that benefit the skin internally as well as topically.
Concentrate on foods that will act on the lungs and large intestines, the yin and yang organs relating to the skin, and the stomach and spleen, because of their roles in digestion and purification of the body. These predominantly yin and neutral foods include corn, spinach, lettuce, honey, beef, and celery.
This is a perfect, balanced scrub that will lubricate, moisturize, and soothe your skin. The honey adds needed moisture while not adding any oil, the peppermint is lightly astringent, tightening your skin, and the barley will gently slough off any dead skin cells.
Makes 1 treatment
1 tablespoon dried mint, or 1 tea bag
3 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon barley
Boil 1 cup of water and add the dried mint or tea bag. Steep until cool. Strain and discard mint leaves or tea bag. Combine the honey and barley in a separate cup. Add the mint tea, a tablespoon at a time, until mixture forms a loose paste. Discard remaining tea.
Apply scrub to cleansed face and gently massage with your fingertips, taking care to avoid the delicate tissue around your eyes. Rinse face with tepid water and pat dry with a soft towel.
Parsley is a good source of vitamin C, which has a gentle astringent property that helps equalize the pH balance of the skin. This soothing toner is perfect for combination skin and is particularly good for nighttime use.
Makes 2 treatments
1 large bunch parsley, coarsely chopped
Bring ½ cup of water to a boil. Place parsley in a large glass bowl, and add the boiling water; let steep until cool. Strain the liquid and store in a glass bottle with a tight-fitting lid in the refrigerator.
Apply cool toner to face with cotton balls; this can be left on skin without rinsing. Discard mixture after 2 days.
The most important ingredient you can have in your “skin food” cupboard is raw honey. The propolis in honey is a free-radical neutralizer and is full of vitamins C, B, and E. It is extremely important to use raw honey, which can be found in any health food store, because these nutrients are not present in the pasteurized honey on the supermarket shelves. If you have only pasteurized honey, try it, but raw honey is far more effective. Honey adds no oil to your skin, but instead tricks your skin into minimizing the overproduction of oils. Honey soothes and lubricates both the oily and the dry parts of your combination skin.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons raw honey
Place 2 tablespoons raw honey in a cup and stir in 1 to 2 teaspoons of water. Pat onto your damp skin, gently massaging it into your face and neck with your fingertips. Leave on for 3 minutes, then rinse off with tepid water. Pat face dry with a soft towel.
Bay leaves have been used to normalize skin for hundreds of years. They have both stimulating and soothing component oils and are a natural antibacterial agent. The clay will draw out any impurities that are in your skin, leaving it clean, fresh, and smooth.
Makes 1 treatment
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Put the bay leaves into a glass bowl and add the boiling water; let stand until cool. Put the clay into a small bowl and spoon the bay leaf water, tablespoon by tablespoon, into the clay until it is the consistency of a milkshake. Pat evenly onto your face and/or body with your fingertips. Let dry for about 20 minutes, then rinse off with tepid water. Pat skin dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Kaolin and French clay are both available in health food stores and many large drugstores and cosmetics shops.
Sensitive or allergic skin indicates an imbalance in the large intestine, which play a major role in the water balance of the body and the purity of the body’s fluids. The large intestine—the yang organ opposite the yin organ of the lungs—has special influence over the throat, face, and head. The large intestine helps rid the body of toxins likely to cause skin sensitivity or allergic reactions.
The simplest, most direct way to eliminate toxins is to perspire, so you can either steam toxins from your face—a recipe for Honeysuckle Skin Steam follows on this page—or eat foods that encourage perspiration, such as dishes that include ginger or pepper. Possibly the most helpful ingredients in any treatment for sensitive skin are honey, honeysuckle, and chrysanthemum flowers.
Louisa, a very pale blonde, often broke out in “little itchy bumps” on her upper arms, chest, and face. She asked what to do to clear up these irritating bumps and to heal the ones she had scratched during her sleep. It was summertime and far too hot to wear long sleeves, but the sores on her arms were both painful and unsightly. Exposure to sun and airborne pollutants only exacerbated the condition. I suggested that she rub raw honey onto the irritated areas, explaining that honey is soothing and healing. A humectant that lubricates and moisturizes the skin, honey also has antibacterial and antibiotic properties.
This tasty drink may sound a bit peculiar to Westerners, but I’m sure you will appreciate what it does to calm and cool hot, burning skin from the inside out by opening the pores and encouraging perspiration. This tea is especially helpful for anyone who breaks out in a rash after eating seafood.
Makes 1 serving
1-inch piece ginger, peeled and halved
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Combine ¼ cup of water with the remaining ingredients in a small glass or enamel saucepan. Bring to a boil, then lower the flame and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain, and drink the tea while still warm.
Green mung beans have the exact opposite energy of red beans. This wonderful soup clears the excess hot energy that causes imbalance. It also works as a diuretic and has been shown to lower blood pressure. It is especially helpful for problems relating to sensitive skin.
Makes 6 appetizer or 4 main-dish servings
1 strip dried seaweed—kombu, arame, or kelp (see NOTE)
½ pound dried green mung beans, washed and trimmed of tough ends
1 teaspoon sugar
Soak the seaweed strip in hot water for 5 minutes; then wash and cut it into strips.
Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium-sized enamel saucepan. Add green mung beans and seaweed, lower the heat, and simmer for ½ hour, or until the beans are tender. Add the sugar.
NOTE: Dried seaweed and green mung beans are available from Asian markets and health food stores.
Honey is particularly good for sensitive skin, as it soothes, moisturizes, and cleans the skin without causing any irritation. The addition of an ancient beauty ingredient—egg whites—further calms your sensitive epidermis.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons raw honey
1 tablespoon whipped egg whites
Mix the honey and egg whites together in a cup, then gently massage into your skin, using your fingertips to avoid stretching the skin. Leave on for 3 minutes, so that the honey can draw out the impurities. Rinse your face with tepid water and pat dry with a soft towel.
The old-fashioned name for comfrey is “knit-bone,” which bespeaks its role in cell regeneration. Raspberry is a gentle astringent full of needed vitamin C that is so healing to sensitive and allergic skin.
Makes 2 applications
1 tablespoon dried comfrey, or 1 tea bag (see NOTE)
1 tablespoon dried raspberry tea or 1 tea bag (see NOTE)
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil and pour over the dried comfrey and raspberry tea in a glass bowl. Let steep until cool. Remove tea bag or strain leaves. Pour into a glass bottle with a tightly fitting lid and refrigerate until ready to use. Pour half the liquid into a glass bowl. Using cotton balls, gently pat your skin with the liquid; it does not need to be rinsed off.
NOTE: Dried comfrey and dried raspberry leaves are available at health food stores and herb shops or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
Avocados provide an easily assimilated oil that mimics the body’s own natural oils, yet does not clog the pores. The skin is your largest organ, and it’s important to remember that any pesticide that is sprayed on the avocado will be absorbed immediately into your epidermis. So, it is really important that you get an organic avocado and raw honey. This moisturizing treatment is so soothing to sensitive skin, it’ll make you feel like you’ve been to a spa!
Makes 1 total body treatment
1 ripe avocado, peeled and pitted
½ cup raw honey
Process avocado and honey into a thick paste in a blender. Pour into a plastic bowl or cup (no glass, lest you drop it into the tub or shower). Take a warm shower; rinsing thoroughly to make sure there are no pollutants or soap on your body. Rub some of the avocado-honey paste all over your body and relax for 5 minutes. Rinse off the paste with tepid water. Pat your body dry with a soft towel.
As a perfect weekly treatment for sensitive, allergic skin, this mask is a boon. The clay draws out impurities, while the milk soothes tender skin. It’s so gentle you can use it more often if your skin is especially irritated.
Makes 1 treatment
3 tablespoons kaolin or French clay (see NOTE)
2 to 3 tablespoons milk or cream
Place clay in a glass cup or bowl. Stir in milk or cream until the mixture has a smooth, runny consistency. Pat onto clean skin, avoiding the delicate tissue around the eyes. Let dry for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse face off with cool (not cold) water and pat dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Kaolin or French clay is available in most health food stores and in many large drugstores and cosmetics shops.
Honeysuckle blossoms are used in many Chinese facial creams for their superior ability to clear up acne and other skin irritations. Regardless of your skin type—oily, dry, normal, or acne prone—a fragrant steam of these delicate dried flowers will soothe your tender epidermis and facilitate your skin’s ability to achieve a healthy balance.
Makes 1 facial steam
Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Put the honeysuckle blossoms or tea bags in a glass bowl and slowly pour the boiling water over them. Cover the bowl with a small towel and let steep for 2 minutes.
To steam your face: Place bowl on a solid surface. Lift the towel and place it over your head. Lean over the bowl and let the warm vapors hydrate your skin for up to 10 minutes, or until liquid cools. Discard liquid.
Pat face dry with a soft towel. Follow up with a good moisturizer if you have dry or normal skin. Use a toner or splash if your skin is oily or acne prone.
NOTE: Dried honeysuckle is available at herb shops and health food stores, or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
Although eczema is a very common skin problem, its precise causes and a universally effective treatment continue to elude Western medical practitioners. Chinese herbal practitioners believe eczema results from wind conditions and exposure to extreme temperatures, and they treat it accordingly.
Eczema can appear on the face, behind the ears, on the upper arms, or on other parts of the body. Wherever eczema occurs, unattractive reddish sores appear that can be painful, itchy, or sore. These patches can vanish mysteriously, then reappear, all within a few days. Left untreated, eczema can result in thick, rough spots that are as uncomfortable as they are unsightly.
Marlene came into my spa in search of something to treat the unsightly red patches that had erupted behind her ears and on the backs of her hands. The blotches, which had begun to spread, were painful and itchy. She was reluctant to try the cortisone and steroid treatment her dermatologist had recommended. “Those are powerful drugs,” she said. “It seems like overkill to me.”
As we talked, Marlene mentioned that she had just started her own business and was working around the clock to make a go of it. Picking up on that, I asked when she started her company and when the eczema started. Marlene opened her eyes wide and said, “I never thought about it, but I started breaking out right after I left my old job.”
I explained to Marlene that eczema is an indication that the body has a yang chi excess that is often intensified by stress and anxiety. We discussed relaxation techniques for her to try and ways that she could alter her diet to restore balance to her body. I also suggested some natural remedies to relieve the itching and cool the hot energy in her body.
The following foods and herbs calm the wind conditions associated with eczema: peas, witch hazel, honey, ginger, chamomile, and thyme. Incorporate them into your diet and skin-care routines. For example, stir-fry snow peas with tofu and ginger, add green peas to soups or salads, and drink chamomile tea or use it as a toner. Incorporate these foods and you’ll quickly see results. Drink plenty of water.
Conversely, the following foods should be assiduously avoided by those suffering from eczema: milk and all dairy products, yeast, sugar, mangoes, pineapples, strawberries, mustard greens, and shellfish. Chicken should be eaten only in moderation.
The synergy between bee pollen and honey make this a powerful morning tonic for anyone suffering from eczema or any other chronic skin problem. Honey is a humectant that lubricates the digestive tract and opens the flow of chi throughout the body. Drink every morning during episodes of eczema.
Makes 1 serving
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons bee pollen (see NOTE)
1 tablespoon ginseng extract (see NOTE)
Heat 1 cup of water to medium-hot but not boiling and pour into a large mug. Add honey, bee pollen, and ginseng extract. Stir well, and drink.
NOTE: Bee pollen and ginseng extract are both available at health food stores.
This tasty soup not only helps dry skin but also combats rashes, eczema, and other skin irritations as well. It’s also good for strengthening the stomach and spleen, thus clearing heat and aiding the elimination process. Enjoy this soup often and experience beautiful, soft skin and better digestion.
Makes 2 main-dish servings
½ pound lean pork, cut into ½-inch cubes
1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
4 ounces unsalted raw peanuts, rinsed and skins removed
Salt to taste
Season the pork with a pinch of salt. Put all ingredients into a pot, bring to a boil, and lower the heat to medium for about 20 minutes. Add salt to taste.
Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea)
You shouldn’t eat papaya and yogurt if you have eczema, but that shouldn’t stop you from using this fragrant and refreshing body scrub to bring your skin into balance. Not only is papaya one of the best cooling summer fruits, being very yin, it also works miracles on dull, flaky skin and helps combat eczema. Enzymes in the papaya invigorate the skin, and the yogurt’s natural acids work to gently remove old, dead skin cells so that new, healthy ones can emerge.
Makes 1 facial or skin treatment
½ cup chopped papaya
½ cup plain yogurt
Combine papaya and yogurt in a glass bowl and mix thoroughly. Apply to face, elbows, knees, feet—anywhere your skin needs softening or where eczema appears—and leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse skin with tepid water and pat dry with a soft towel.
Thyme is an excellent emollient, and at the same time works to slough off dead skin cells and bring healing energy to patches of eczema. Lavender is particularly great for its soothing and antibiotic actions.
Makes 4 treatments
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon dried lavender (see NOTE)
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Place thyme and lavender in a large mug, and cover with water. Steep until cold. Strain off liquid and discard leaves. Pour the liquid into a glass bottle with a tightly fitting top. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
To use, pour ¼ cup into a bowl. Apply to face and body with cotton balls after bathing. This does not have to be washed off; in fact, it’s particularly good as a pre-makeup toner.
NOTE: Dried lavender is available at herb shops and health food stores.
Aloe vera is one of the oldest recorded healing herbs, and chamomile has great soothing properties, making this an important moisturizer for eczema-plagued skin. It can be left on overnight or used under makeup for all-day protection.
Makes 1 treatment
1 tablespoon dried chamomile, or 1 tea bag
3 tablespoons aloe vera gel
Bring ½ cup of water to a boil. Pour water over the dried chamomile or tea bag in a glass bowl or cup. Steep until water is cool, then strain off liquid and discard the chamomile.
In a separate cup, add the aloe vera gel to 3 tablespoons of the chamomile tea. Mix well. Discard remaining tea. Apply to face and/or body with cotton balls.
This mask is great for the special needs of eczema sufferers. The comfrey aids cellular regeneration, the honey adds antibiotic and moisturizing properties, and the egg tightens the skin very gently. Use on your face and on any areas where eczema appears.
Makes 1 treatment
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Pour the boiling water over the dried comfrey or tea bag in a glass bowl. Let steep until cool; strain and discard comfrey.
In a separate glass cup, mix the honey, egg, and ¼ cup of the cooled comfrey tea. Discard remaining tea. Pat the mixture on clean face; leave on for 5 minutes, or until skin feels taut. Rinse face with warm water, and pat dry with a soft towel.
NOTE: Dried comfrey is available at herb shops and health food stores.
Usually beginning in middle age, liver spots can appear on the face or the hands. Typically darker than the skin’s own shade, they range in color from light to dark brown and from light to dark gray. Chinese herbalists believe that liver spots are the result of liver imbalances.
My mother returned to live in Hong Kong after some twenty years in the United States. Whenever I visit her there, I love going out with her on her morning walks. A neighbor, Mrs. Stone, is the wife of an American businessman now working in Hong Kong. For a few years, she and my mother have met for their early-morning walks along the trails in the hills where they live. Even though my mother is about ten years older than Mrs. Stone, my mother is more fit—and her hands are softer and more beautiful than her friend’s.
One morning, during my last visit, Mrs. Stone told me that she had noticed my mother’s beautiful hands and had asked Mom how she did it. My mother’s friend had quite a few dark-brown liver spots on her hands, which made her self-conscious. The skin was dry, like paper, with pronounced veins.
Always willing to share her knowledge about traditional Chinese medicine and herbal beauty treatments, Mom gave her a few tips. She showed her how to care for her hands and nails and told her how to make minor changes in her diet to nurture and cleanse her liver and kidneys that would be especially effective in removing those ugly spots. Mom also told Mrs. Stone to follow her lead and wear thin white cotton gloves when she goes on her morning walks. Now they both apply a lot of moisturizer and pull on their cotton gloves before their walks.
When I last saw her, Mrs. Stone proudly showed off the results of her efforts. Her hands looked about ten years younger, and you could hardly see the liver spots at all. When I made a comment about how pretty her hands were, she was very happy and proud to acknowledge my mother’s wise advice.
Papaya’s natural enzymes soften the skin while exfoliating and bleaching it. Lemon is a great source of much-needed vitamin C and is also a great bleach. Honey moisturizes and revitalizes.
Makes 1 treatment
1 ripe papaya
1 lemon, juiced
1 tablespoon raw honey
Peel the papaya and place in a bowl. Mash thoroughly, then add the lemon juice and honey. Mix well, and rub on skin. Leave on for 5 minutes, rinse off, and pat skin dry with a soft towel.
The eucalyptus lends this toner wonderful antiseptic qualities, and the witch hazel and lemon both act as bleaching agents. Used regularly, this toner will help lighten liver spots.
5 drops eucalyptus oil
1 lemon, juiced
8-ounce bottle witch hazel
Add the eucalyptus oil and the lemon juice to the bottle of witch hazel. Shake well.
Pour ¼ cup of the solution into a glass bowl. Using cotton balls, apply to the affected areas. Store the toner in refrigerator for up to 7 days.
This is particularly good for softening the tough, old-looking skin that frequently accompanies liver spots. Honeysuckle not only smells wonderful, it also has hydrating properties that keep skin dewy. Rub a little of this sensational oil onto your legs after shaving! You’ll be amazed at how soft your skin will stay.
Makes 4 ounces
3 tablespoons dried honeysuckle flowers (see NOTE)
2 tablespoons liquid lecithin (see NOTE)
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon wheat germ oil (see NOTE)
1 teaspoon oil of honeysuckle (see NOTE)
Bring ¼ cup water to a boil and pour into a bowl. Add the honeysuckle flowers and steep until cool. Set aside.
Process lecithin and oils in a blender at medium speed for 1 minute. Strain and discard the honeysuckle flowers from the liquid, then add the liquid to the oil mixture in the blender. Process for 1 minute at low speed.
Pour into a clean, dry glass container. Store tightly sealed in a cool, dark place. Shake before use, as it may separate. Rub oil into skin wherever necessary.
NOTE: All ingredients noted can be found in health food stores.
Honeysuckle (Lonicera hispidula)
This lovely liquid emollient is excellent for liver spots. The sugar gently scrubs away dead skin cells, the lemon juice bleaches the spots, and the honey is a natural rehydrator for all skin types. Use weekly to help reduce the color of the spots.
Makes 1 treatment
1 tablespoon raw honey
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Mix together the honey, brown sugar, and lemon juice in a small cup. Wet the area to be scrubbed; then rub in the mixture. Let it stay on your skin for a few minutes to allow the bleaching and hydrating actions to occur; then rinse off with warm water and pat skin dry with a soft towel.
The only way to truly protect your skin from the sun is to stay indoors.
Of course, that’s not practical. In ancient China, women always carried parasols to protect their skin from the “vicious elements,” since a fair complexion was highly prized. Today, even as more and more evidence appears about the extensive damage the sun can do, a tan is still considered beautiful.
Why people knowingly put themselves and their skin in jeopardy is a puzzle to me. Even as women educate themselves about the dangers of unprotected sun exposure, cases of skin cancer increase, and the number of young adults consulting plastic surgeons for chemical peels and surgical procedures to remove wrinkles and restore youth to their faces is on the rise.
Since there is no surefire way for most of us to have a full, rich life without exposing ourselves to the sun, I make these suggestions:
• Always use a sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of at least fifteen. If you perspire heavily or will be in and out of the water, reapply it frequently during the day.
• Always wear a hat with a bill or brim to further protect your hair, scalp, and face from the sun.
• Use skin-care and cosmetic products that contain a sunscreen. The SPF will be printed on the label.
• To have a golden, sun-kissed tan, use a self-tanning product. There are several new products on the market that, used properly, look quite natural. You might also try a bronzing powder.
If you do get a burn or if you are already tanned and have the first signs of premature aging, you can stop what you’re doing … and begin to take special care of this most visible part of your body. The recipes that follow provide a good place to start.
Oatmeal is great for softening and soothing sun-damaged skin. You can use a bit of your leftover breakfast oatmeal or you can use instant oatmeal to make this soothing cleansing product. The vinegar restores the skin’s delicate acid mantle and eases tenderness.
Makes 1 treatment
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Add the cooked oatmeal to the water and stir to combine. The oatmeal will sink to the bottom of the cup, but just keep stirring it for about 3 minutes to make a watery paste. The oatmeal essence will permeate the water. Let the water cool, then strain, and discard any oatmeal. Add the vinegar. Apply to sunburned skin with cotton balls; do not rinse off.
Lettuce water is an old recipe for sunburned skin. In addition to being soothing, the cooked lettuce has chemicals that help ease sunburn pain.
Makes 1 treatment
½ head of organic lettuce, any variety
Chop the lettuce coarsely, and place in a saucepan. Cover with 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let the mixture stand until cool; strain. Apply to sunburned areas with cotton balls and do not rinse off. Since this splash does not keep; make a new batch each time you want to treat your skin.
Tea leaves (Pyrus communis)
One of the most crucial methods to prevent sun damage—apart from sunscreen—is to restore moisture to seared skin cells. The tannic acid in the tea and the healing properties of the aloe vera gel make this simple brew an important tool in your sun-damage repair kit.
Makes 1 treatment
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil and pour over the green tea in a glass or crockery bowl. Steep until cool. Strain and discard tea. Add the aloe vera gel, mixing thoroughly. Apply to affected areas with cotton balls. Since this mixture does not keep, make a new batch each time.
If your skin is sunburned, you definitely don’t want to use any heavily astringent mask, as it will only cause more damage. This gentle mask will draw out impurities while utilizing the moisturizing qualities of honey.
Makes 1 treatment
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons aloe vera gel
Stir honey and aloe vera gel together in a glass cup. Apply to affected areas. Leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse off with tepid water. Pat skin dry with a soft towel. This does not keep well, so make a new batch each time.
You have probably heard of dang quai as an herb that helps PMS and cramps. What you may not know is that it has superior healing properties, especially in the case of skin injuries. The Chinese use it in creams to help prevent the formation of thick, ugly scars. Here’s a recipe that will soften dry skin and, thanks to its natural antibiotic qualities, promote healing and east the pain of sunburn.
Makes 6 to 8 treatments
Put enough water in a saucepan to touch the bottom of a steamer when placed on top of pan. Place the dang quai into the steamer. Cover the steamer and bring water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until dang quai is limp, approximately 10 minutes, depending on thickness of the root.
Remove the dang quai from steamer and discard water or sweeten with honey and drink. When dang quai is cool, chop the steamed root as finely as possible and set aside.
Place the cocoa butter and chopped dang quai in a saucepan and, over low heat, cook until the cocoa butter is thoroughly melted. Remove from heat. Cover loosely and let stand overnight.
The next day, heat again over low heat until the cocoa butter is melted. Strain through a metal sieve into a glass bowl. You may have to strain several times to remove all the pieces of dang quai.
Pour into a clean, dry glass container with a tightly fitting lid (allow to cool completely before sealing). Store in a cool, dark place for up to 10 days. Smooth the cream onto all affected areas.
NOTE: Dang quai is available at Asian markets and health food stores or by mail order from the Resources listed on this page.
Here’s a natural cream that’s good for any skin type. Mandarin Miracle Body Cream has a safflower oil base, which is neither too yin nor too yang, so it can be used all over your body. The orange peel helps to lighten any discolorations. This cream is especially good for softening those rough spots on your elbows, knees, and heels, and works very well to rehydrate sunburned skin.
Makes 4 to 6 treatments
2 teaspoons grated fresh orange peel
¼ cup safflower oil
1 tablespoon grated beeswax
¼ cup orange flower water (see NOTE)
Pinch of borax
1 teaspoon essential oil of orange (see NOTE)
Set aside 1 teaspoon of the grated orange peel. Combine safflower oil, remaining teaspoon of grated orange peel, and beeswax in a enamel or glass saucepan. Cook over low heat until beeswax is melted.
Combine the orange flower water with the borax in a second saucepan. Heat until water is warm and borax is completely dissolved. Pour this liquid into the beeswax and safflower oil mixture, add the teaspoon of grated orange peel and the oil of orange, and stir to combine.
Pour into a clean, dry glass container with a lid, allowing the mixture to cool completely before sealing. Store in a cool, dry place and use within 4 weeks. Smooth cream on all affected areas.
NOTE: Orange flower water and oil of orange are available at herb shops and health food stores.
