The Chinese believe that the hands and feet require care that goes beyond mere manicures, pedicures, hand lotion, and pumice stones. The same yin/yang balance applied to all other aspects of the Organic Whole applies here as well. To keep those elements in focus, maintaining equilibrium, is always the essential goal. You will find that, consciously applied, this philosophy is easy to work into your lifestyle and will benefit each part of your body.
Centuries of research show that the condition of the hands and feet can be altered and even corrected by restoring balance to the systems of the body. In the Tao of beauty, the hands and feet—like the ear—represent a microcosm of the entire body. Acupuncture and acupressure were developed just for this reason—practitioners see the hands and feet as maps, with certain areas on each corresponding to organs in the body. The toes, for example, reflect the conditions of the sinuses and head—left and right, depending on the foot being treated. The inside line of the foot, from the big toe to the heel, reflects the spine, from the head and neck to the coccyx. When pressure is applied, stagnant chi is released so that healing energy can flow to the corresponding organs.
Everybody notices hands. The rough, strong hands of a laborer; the callused yet pliant fingertips of a guitarist; the strong, supple hands of a massage therapist—all speak volumes not only about one’s profession but about one’s self-image. Gnawed cuticles and stubby nails with chipped polish hardly reflect high self-esteem. According to Chinese lore, the hands are the “gates to Paradise,” no doubt because of their ability to touch and move, and are considered the ultimate indicator of a woman’s femininity. Early Chinese doctors reasoned that smooth, supple hands and strong, evenly shaped fingernails indicated a healthy, balanced body; pale, stiff hands and uneven, weak nails reflected stagnant chi function not just in the hands and fingers but throughout the entire body.
During one of the winter collection shows in Milan, a model friend named Debbie commented that I had nice hands and nails. Her nails, she complained, seemed to never grow. Because they were so stubby, Debbie was ashamed to have her nails done professionally. When necessary for a specific modeling assignment, she would glue on fake nails or, if appropriate, wear gloves or carry a scarf or some other accessory to deflect attention away from her fingers.
I told Debbie that if she really wanted better-looking hands and nails, the first thing she should do was get a professional manicure. A good manicurist would shape her nails correctly and push the cuticles back. This would create the illusion of longer, neater nails and stimulate nail growth. Even more important, she would get a great hand massage. Everything a manicurist does encourages the flow of blood and chi energy to and from the extremities, which is essential to beautiful hands and nails.
I also suggested that since her schedule was so chaotic, she should learn to give herself a manicure. I told her to brush her nails with a natural-bristle nail brush and mild soap during her bath or shower to help get rid of dead cuticle cells. And I suggested that she massage her fingertips and cuticles every night with a moisturizing cream or even petroleum jelly. This would stimulate her circulation while strengthening and rehydrating the nail beds. Nails lose moisture twice as fast as skin, mainly because they are less porous and less absorbent. Our hands are exposed to a great deal of water, often without being properly dried. By applying a thick, topical ointment such as lanolin or petroleum jelly to your nails and cuticles, you can virtually eliminate hangnails, ingrown toenails, and dry nails and cuticles. There are several fine nail creams on the market, but lanolin or petroleum jelly do the same job for much less money.
Of course, I gave Debbie a list of foods she should include in her diet: grapes, peaches, plums, asparagus, snow peas, tofu, white-fleshed fish, shrimp, brown rice, and more. These foods, and others listed on this page, increase the flow of chi in addition to balancing the hot and cold energy throughout the body.
When the next show season came around, I noticed that Debbie had gorgeous nails. She thanked me profusely and said that she couldn’t have had them without me!
Undeniably, hands reflect a person’s state of health. A traditional Chinese practitioner looks for signs that indicate a variety of conditions, most of which can be corrected by restoring balance to the entire body. Following are a few common hand conditions and what they may say about you:
• Hot, even warm, hands can indicate excess internal heat. Other signs of this yang condition are dry, scaly, or red skin. Increasing the moisture of the yin organs, especially the kidneys, is recommended. This is usually done with herbal teas, cooling mint or green tea for example, and juices—apple, grapefruit, and grape will do. Ginger and orange peel, either together or separately, are especially effective for bringing balance to this condition, despite their individual yang properties.
• Hands that are cold and pale can indicate excessive internal cold and stagnant chi. Replenishing the yang organs, especially the yang energy of the kidneys is vital. Dang quai and Chinese licorice, taken either together or separately in a tea, are particularly helpful for this. See the food list on this page and incorporate foods from the yang list into your diet to increase internal warming.
• Clammy hands indicate too much dampness or moisture in the system, as well as in the atmosphere. In some people this shows up as arthritis; in others, merely as occasional twinges of pain in the joints. Feeding the yang energy of the spleen and lungs will help correct this. The traditional drink given to old people with pain in the joints of their hands and feet is a tea of astragalus, Chinese cinnamon, ginger, Paeonia, and Chinese red dates. You’ll find out more about arthritis later in this chapter.
These problems show up not only in the hands. They also manifest themselves in the feet. Therefore, any treatment that promotes the health of the hands is, in all probability, applicable to the feet.
Feet are even more complex than hands in terms of their relationship to the rest of the body. They have the responsibility of bearing our weight and maintaining balance as we move from place to place. Even the slightest pain in the foot can radiate throughout your body, affecting posture and otherwise throwing your body out of balance. Since our feet are our most abused body parts, it is wise to take special care of them. The great Chinese warrior Sun Ye said it best several thousands years ago when he wrote that “the strength of an army is only as good as one soldier’s feet.”
Take care to examine your feet closely, not just around the nails, but all over. Use a mirror if you must, but look at the soles and peek between your toes for any indication of cuts or fungal growth. Examine your heels, and look especially at your instep and ankles. Cuts and bruises on the feet can take a long time to heal. Diminished circulation, moisture, heat from wearing closed, unvented shoes, wearing shoes that don’t fit properly, or even the pressure of holding your body upright can create conditions that may lead to complications, including fungus, thickened skin, rough spots on the heels and balls of your feet, as well as bone deformities.
Be very careful when cutting your toenails. Cut them straight across and never down into the corners. If you do, you may develop ingrown toenails, especially on your big toes. Each time you do this, the nail will grow deeper, which can lead to myriad problems.
The condition of your nails—be they on your fingers or your toes—provides a major clue to the condition of your body and, in the big picture, your beauty. No matter what polish colors them, healthy nails are always strong and smooth, with a clear, rosy pink nail bed and smooth, pliable cuticle. This indicates that you have ample blood production and circulation, that your chi flows uninhibited throughout your body.
When the nail bed is pale or discolored, you may have insufficient blood production, and your circulation of blood and energy may be slow. Ridged or grooved nails tell a traditional Chinese practitioner that you may be experiencing imbalances in your liver. This can mean a problem with calcium absorption, which inhibits bone development. Poor blood circulation and calcium depletion point directly to deficiencies in the wood element and the organs associated with it—the liver and gallbladder. Therefore it’s important to include foods in your diet that nourish these organs.
Healthy nails are not ridged, nor are they speckled with white spots. They are not brittle, do not flake in layers, and do not break easily. These conditions are all indicators of inadequate or stagnant liver chi. Thickened nails or nails that are separated from the bed may indicate the presence of fungus or infection in the system. Bringing all systems of the body into balance ultimately eradicates these conditions.
Manicures and pedicures make your hands and feet feel great and appear better, which hopefully inspires you to take better care of them. However, you must nurture them from within by including plenty of water, healthy foods, teas, and herbal recipes to provide the appropriate cold or hot energy and nutrients to the organs involved.
FOODS FOR HEALTHY HANDS, FEET, AND NAILS
Fruits and nuts: blackberries, chestnuts, Chinese red and black dates, papayas, peaches, pears, pumpkins, red grapes, strawberries, tangerines, walnuts, water chestnuts.
Vegetables: asparagus, black and yellow soybeans, broccoli, carrots, celery, Chinese cabbage (bok choy), chives, collards, fennel, green beans, kale, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, pinto and other red beans, snow peas, spinach, sword beans, tofu, tomatoes, watercress, winter squash.
Grains and seeds: barley, black sesame seeds, brown rice, corn, oats, wheat gluten, whole wheat.
Proteins: chicken, crab (especially soft shell crab), duck, kidneys, lamb, pork, oysters, oxtails, shrimp, white-fleshed fish, meat tendons, shark fins, meat or fish bones for making soup.
Herbs and spices: Chinese licorice root, Chinese parsley (coriander), chives, cinnamon bark, cloves, dang quai, garlic (raw), ginger, ginseng, curly-leafed parsley, sea cucumber, wheatgrass, wolfberries.
FOODS TO AVOID
Cheese, citrus fruits, nuts and nut butters (except walnuts), salt (use only in moderation), processed sugar, sugary foods and drinks, red meats.
Besides incorporating the right foods into your diet, there are other things you can do to beautify your hands and feet. Take special care of your extremities so that you can repair any damage and prevent more from occurring. Here’s how:
• Since your hands are often the first place to show your age, make it a habit to give them a massage with a rich moisturizing product as part of your nightly bedtime routine. If possible, buy a moisturizer made from natural ingredients (jojoba oil, lanolin, etc.) and use it often. Moisturize and massage your feet too, at bedtime.
• By massaging cream into your hands and fingertips, feet and toes, you stimulate pressure points that release tension all over your body. This leaves not only your hands and feet feeling refreshed and rejuvenated but the rest of your body as well. Even if it’s just for a couple of minutes as you dry off after bathing, massage sends the flow of blood and stagnant chi from the toes back into circulation.
• After massaging creams and lotions into your hands and feet, slip on white cotton gloves and socks and wear them through the night. This will keep your hands and feet soft, and your nails moist, strong, and pliable.
• Always rub your hands with a moisturizing cream and wear thin white cotton gloves before exercising, especially if you are going to be outdoors. This will help the skin retain moisture. Sun, wind, and airborne pollutants can do serious damage to tender skin. And don’t forget sunscreen on the backs of your hands and tops of your feet whenever they are exposed.
• Rub white iodine into your fingernails and toenails with cotton balls to strengthen your nails (regular iodine will leave a rather unattractive stain). I recommend doing this nightly for a week or two until your nails are stronger. Do it weekly after that.
• Always wear gloves when doing chores, indoors and out. Fabric-lined rubber gloves are a must for any task that involves water or chemicals. Heavy canvas gloves are essential for gardening—even working with your houseplants. Soft cotton gloves are enough for almost everything else—sweeping, vacuuming, making beds.
• After your bath or shower, gently erase rough spots and calluses on your heels and soles with a damp pumice stone. This will keep your feet smooth and less prone to injury.
• Keep your feet dry. Moisture makes mayhem with your feet. Wear vented shoes or, if that’s not possible, take off your shoes several times during the day to allow them to breathe and dry. Perspiration is vital to the body’s temperature-regulating system as well as to elimination of body wastes, but wear stockings or socks to absorb any moisture that may collect in your shoes.
• Eliminate swelling and improve circulation by alternating hot and cold soaks. Fill one deep pan with hot water and Epsom salts and another with cold water and ice cubes. Dip your feet in the hot water for two minutes to dilate veins and capillaries, then move to the iced water for two minutes. Repeat this process, moving from hot to cold, for ten minutes. If your ankles are especially swollen, use a ladle to pour hot and then cold water on your shins and calves.
• Drink plenty of water to keep your kidneys flushed with fluid. This helps to prevent water retention in your feet and hands.
• Stand and place your hands against a wall for balance. Place a small hard rubber ball (or a tennis ball) on the floor. Roll the ball under one foot and then the other. Make sure that you flex your ankles and stretch your toes over the ball. Roll it under the ball of your foot as you press into it, then slide the ball under the arch and work it back so that you can roll your heel over it. Take your foot off the ball and stand up straight, away from the wall. Feel how much looser and more energized that side of your body is? Repeat with the other foot. Do this several times a day to keep your chi moving.
While most models work at fashion shows and photo shoots for fashion layouts and advertisements, some are specialists like Jean. She is a hand model. You’ve probably seen her hands in magazines and on television, holding a bottle of laundry detergent or luxurious perfume, modeling a wedding band or bracelet, displaying the latest nail enamel colors. Her face rarely shows, so you probably wouldn’t even suspect that she is a model, especially since she is considerably shorter than the five-foot-nine minimum height required for fashion modeling. Her hands are absolutely beautiful, exquisitely shaped, with amazing fingernails. There’s not a flaw, blemish, or wrinkle on them.
When we met, I was so impressed that I couldn’t help myself. I blurted right out, “I’ll bet you haven’t washed a dish or touched a mop in years!”
Quite the contrary. Jean assured me that she does indeed wash dishes. The big difference is that she wears gloves, no matter what she is doing—cottonlined rubber gloves for tasks that involve water, cotton gloves for dusting and vacuuming, canvas work gloves in the garden. She also uses real tools, instead of her fingernails, for every task. You’d never catch her scratching candle wax off the dining table with her thumbnail!
There are also foot models who treat their feet with rigorous care. They never go barefoot, unless for a photo shoot, and they always wear shoes that fit. You’ll never find them squeezing their size 9½ tootsies into size 9 pumps, or slopping around in last season’s stretched-out sandals.
All of this is to say that you can do almost anything, as long as you take precautions and make adjustments in how you perform tasks to prevent damage. Like everything else in life, balance in our behavior, like balance in our meals, is the key.
Lack of fluids and moisture in our diets and our bodies can leave us with dry, chapped hands and feet and unhealthy fingernails. Refer back to Chapter 5, especially to the recipes for dry skin, and incorporate them into your diet and skin-care regimen.
Water is the best natural diuretic in the world. If you are the least bit prone to fluid retention, especially in your hands, feet, or ankles, increase your water intake from six to eight glasses of water to eight to ten glasses, and cut your consumption of salty and fatty foods by half.
Avoid developing enlarged veins in your hands at all costs. This is a dead giveaway of age. Avoid carrying heavy packages. When you carry a shopping bag that is light, there is no problem. However, if it is heavy, you have to use a lot of strength, causing blood to flow into your hands and becoming trapped in your fingers. When you hold tightly onto the handles of shopping bags, this can interrupt circulation considerably, especially if you carry these packages down by your sides. Blood builds up and enlarges the veins. I suggest using a shopping cart or, if that’s not possible, putting the parcels down at frequent intervals and holding your hands over your head to restore circulation. I hold my hands high and, when possible, carry things above my waist. I know this looks a little odd, so in public I gently cross my arms while keeping my fingertips up. No one even suspects I’m saving my hands.
I’m not the first woman to wave her hands over her head in the name of beauty. I am told that Marilyn Monroe held her arms over her head and wiggled her hands around to reduce swelling before stepping onto the set.
The Chinese name for this painful condition is fung sup quat tong which literally means “wet wind, bone pain.” These two phrases go together, as one always follows the other.
Because women, more often than men, still do most of the cooking and cleanup, and as a consequence have their hands in and out of water, women experience arthritis in their hands more often than men do.
We know that water and air are cooling properties, which are often used to alleviate other imbalances in the hands and feet. Such chilled energy, however, can result in blocked energy flow and slowed blood circulation that affects your bones and joints. People with arthritis suffer most on cold or rainy days.
The Chinese also believe that arthritis can be inherited from our ancestors. If our ancestors worked with their hands, kept them in water, and then developed arthritis, this condition could pass on to you. If you treat your hands the same way, you risk passing arthritis on to your offspring. This is another good reason to take care of your hands and joints.
An important way to prevent arthritis is to dry your hands thoroughly after washing them or getting them wet. Always wear fabric-lined rubber gloves when washing dishes, and wear disposable latex gloves—like your doctor or dentist or the cook at your corner diner uses—to protect your hands while cooking. Gloves provide protection for your skin and manicure without limiting movement. Remember to apply moisturizing lotion before donning the gloves. Take care to wash and rinse gloves thoroughly before handling food to remove any detergent residue. Also wash gloves thoroughly after using them, and make sure that they are dry on the inside before using them again. Throw away the disposables.
These recipes for hand and foot treatments and delicious dishes use ingredients that are known to provide the energy and nutrients necessary for healthy, beautiful hands, feet, and nails. Look back to Chapter 5 for other topical skin recipes you’ll want to use (for dry skin for example).
Ginger and licorice have amazing properties that contribute to the health and beauty of your hands and feet. Ginger stimulates circulation of both blood and chi. This brings a warming energy that helps to remove coldness, aches, swelling, and numbness. Chinese licorice is widely recognized for its fungicidal properties, which protect your nails and feet from the often-painful problems of nail fungus and athlete’s foot.
Makes 1 soak
8 to 12 ounces ginger, cut into long strips
6 to 8 slices Chinese licorice root (see NOTE)
Pound the ginger with a mallet to break up the fibers. Pound the licorice roots lightly to release essence.
Boil the ginger and licorice with 6 cups of water in a glass or enamel saucepan for 5 to 10 minutes, until liquid is the color of weak tea.
Strain, reserving liquid, and let cool slightly. Soak hands and/or feet in this warm solution for 10 to 15 minutes, until water is tepid. Dry hands and/or feet thoroughly with a soft towel.
NOTE: Chinese licorice root has healing properties not found in American-grown roots. You can purchase it in Asian markets and many larger health food stores as well as from the mail-order Resources listed on this page.
A wise man once said, “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” Easier said than done, if your feet are sore! As a model, I found that after ten hour days of strutting up and down the catwalk in stiletto heels, my feet ached for hours. I invented this footbath for my friends and myself when we needed to get back on our feet. It is relaxing, detoxifying, and combats stagnant chi.
Makes 2 footbaths (16 ounces)
10 nonbuffered adult-strength aspirin
¼ cup baking soda
¼ cup Epsom salts
10 drops oil of peppermint (see NOTE)
5 drops oil of spearmint (see NOTE)
5 drops oil of wintergreen (see NOTE)
5 drops oil of eucalyptus (see NOTE)
Crush aspirin in a large glass bowl. Mix the baking soda and Epsom salts with the crushed aspirin. Add the essential oils and mix until the oils are thoroughly incorporated into the mixture.
Pour the salt mixture onto a clean flat surface, such as a cookie sheet, and place in a warm, dry place overnight. Do not cover. Stir to make certain mixture is dry. If not, let it sit another day. If your climate is too humid for the salts and oils to air-dry, place in a 200°F oven and bake for 15 minutes. Do not microwave. Pour into a clean, airtight container—preferably glass. Store tightly closed in a dry place.
To use: Dissolve half of this mixture in a pan of hot water. Soak your feet for 15 to 20 minutes. Dry feet thoroughly after using. Do not reuse soaking water.
NOTE: These oils are available in herb shops and many health food stores. You can also purchase them in some specialty or natural pharmacies or from the mail-order Resources listed on this page.
Another sensational way to soften your feet and remove those ugly calluses is to use this easy-to-make softening treatment. The acids in the fruits work wonders on dry, thickened skin, while the pepper and vinegar stimulate the flow of chi.
Makes 1 treatment
1 medium ripe papaya, peeled
1 cup canned crushed pineapple, with juice
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Place papaya—seeds and skin as well as fruit—and the pineapple in a blender. Add the cayenne, kosher salt, and vinegar. Process until thoroughly pureed.
Divide this mixture equally into two plastic bags. Stick your feet into the bags and squish them around so that your feet are covered. Place towels over your feet to prevent leakage.
Sit quietly for 20 minutes. Lift one foot from the bag and massage gently, using the crushed papaya seeds and salt to remove roughness. Rinse thoroughly, first under warm water, then under cold, to increase circulation. Repeat with the other foot.
Wolfberries (Solanum dulcamara)
You may not have heard of wolfberries before, but you’ll make sure that you keep them on hand after this. These tiny, sweet berries are orange to red in color, depending on the region of China where they are grown. They are known to bring warming energy to the liver, gallbladder, and kidneys—which means they’re good for lots of things, from arthritis to clear eyes to dry skin. Most Chinese households use them regularly in soups and teas … and even soak them in wine.
Makes 2 servings
2 to 3 tablespoons dried wolfberries (see NOTE)
Honey to taste
Place water and wolfberries in a glass or enamel saucepan; bring to a boil. Stir to mix, then cover and reduce heat. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Taste and sweeten with honey if desired.
NOTE: You can purchase dried wolfberries in health food stores and Asian markets, as well as from the mail-order Resources listed on this page.
This nutritious high-protein drink is a beauty must for your nails. The honey provides antiseptic and moisturizing properties that also make your hair shiny and your skin soft.
Makes 1 cup
1 cup soy milk
1 teaspoon honey
Heat soy milk in a glass or enamel saucepan. Sweeten with honey to taste. Drink once a day for a week and notice the difference in the strength and color of your nails.
If you suffer from arthritis, you’ll want to try this hearty soup. Black soybeans encourage the circulation of blood and other body fluids, helping to relieve the swelling and joint pain associated with arthritis. The beans and fish also serve to nurture the kidneys, stimulating the flow of chi throughout the body.
Makes 4 to 6 main-dish servings
1 cup dried black soybeans, washed and soaked in water overnight in a covered glass bowl (see NOTE)
1 pound carp or sea bass fillets, boned and cut into 1-inch cubes
½ pound pork loin or lean boneless pork roast, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 stalks celery, cut diagonally into ½-inch pieces
1 large carrot, peeled and cut diagonally into ½-inch pieces
6 to 8 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 medium onion, cut into 8 wedges
1 bunch parsley, coarsely chopped
1½-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into 3 pieces
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Place all ingredients in a 4-quart enamel soup pot. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking and to mix ingredients. Reduce heat and cover; simmer over medium heat for 1½ hours, or until beans are tender and pork is thoroughly cooked. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
NOTE: Dried black soybeans can be found in most health food stores. If unavailable, you can substitute any dried black bean.
Vegetarians will enjoy this colorful main dish rich with good things to nourish the bodily systems that benefit your hands and feet. You’ll serve this quick and easy stir-fry often.
Makes 2 to 4 main-dish servings
2 tablespoons light vegetable oil
3 to 5 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 cups broccoli florets
1 large or 2 medium carrots, sliced into ¼-inch coins
4 to 6 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
8 to 10 button mushrooms, sliced thinly
1 cup snow peas or green beans, trimmed of stems
2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons soy sauce
Heat oil in a wok; quickly stir-fry the garlic until golden. Add the broccoli and stir-fry lightly for 1 minute. Add carrots, scallions, mushrooms, and snow peas or beans. Gently stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup water, reduce heat, and cover wok for 2 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Combine honey and soy sauce in wok; stir to blend. Serve over rice, if desired.
A gourmet meal with health-food properties! This delicately flavored main-dish soup is filled with ingredients that build strong, hard nails—especially shrimp and pork neck bones.
Makes 4 main-dish servings
½ pound medium or large shrimp, cleaned, deveined, and shells reserved
¾ pound pork neck bones
1 cup coconut meat, preferably fresh, cut into 1-inch pieces
1½-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into 3 pieces
½ cup Chinese parsley, coarsely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and shredded
4 to 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon roasted sesame oil, optional
If using large shrimp, split in half, lengthwise. Place shrimp in a glass bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to use. Tie shrimp shells in a muslin or cheesecloth bag and cover with 8 cups of water in a 3- or 4-quart enamel soup pot. Bring to a rolling boil and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove bag.
Wash pork neck bones and place in a single layer in a roasting pan. Place in a 400°F oven for 10 minutes to render excess fat from the bones.
Drain fat from pork neck bones and add the bones to soup pot. Add coconut meat, ginger, parsley, carrot, and garlic. Cover and reduce heat to medium. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add shrimp. Continue cooking for 5 to 10 minutes, until shrimp are pink and firm. Stir in lemon juice. Add salt, pepper, and sesame oil if desired.