Eggplant Tian
Olive-marinated fresh mozzarella
Kale, Potato, and Almond Soup
Fried baguette
Baked Sweets and Russets
Herb salad
Miso-Ghee Corn Chowder
Tomato-furikake salad
Butternut Squash and Masa Soup
Spiced pepitas and chipotle quark
Summer Tomato Soup
Tangy potato salad
Classic Tofu-Mushroom Chili
Sautéed fresh poblanos and corn
Seared Tofu with Spiced Mustard Greens
Sweet tomato chutney
Creamy Pot Barley with Butternut Squash and Thyme
Baby kale salad with dates and pistachios
Dal 1: Potatoes, Fresh Turmeric, and Whole Spices
Spiced chopped vegetables
Dal 2: Cauliflower and Quinoa
Cardamom roasted sweet potatoes
Dal 3: Brown Lentils and Spicy Tomato Masala
Cilantro yogurt dollop
Chipotle Chickpea Stew
Sautéed green tomatoes with bread crumb topping
Hearty Sweet Potato and Chickpea Stew with Sweet Spices
Almond-lemon pistou
Spicy Masala Chickpeas
Spinach labneh
Fresh Tomato, Pinto Bean, and Ancho Chile Stew
Cucumber yogurt with hot cumin oil
Smoky Collards and Black-Eyed Peas
Whole grain peach salad
Creamy Giant Limas with Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Oven-fried eggs
Sagamité with Maple Syrup and Butternut Squash
Garlic sautéed dandelion greens
White Bean–Tahini Soup with Garlic Oil
Roasted tomatoes and croutons
Smoky Black Lentils and Beans
Seared halloumi and chile mince
White Bean, Corn, and Chard Stew
Shortcut cheese puffs
WITH olive-marinated fresh mozzarella
ALSO GOOD WITH corn muffins (THIS PAGE) OR almond couscous (THIS PAGE)
I included a similar tian in my first slow cooker book, but have since simplified my approach a lot. When you layer the ingredients, they’ll come almost to the top of the cooker pot, but don’t worry: They’ll collapse and sink down after a couple of hours and their flavors will all meld, resulting in a dish that’s much greater than the sum of its parts.
Layer the ingredients in the cooker.
Fry the bread crumb topping.
5 tablespoons (75 ml) olive oil
½ onion, sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large (1¼-pound/570-g) eggplant, peeled and sliced ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 12 mm) thick
3 large roasted and peeled red bell peppers, torn into large pieces
6 plum tomatoes, sliced
2 large sprigs fresh basil, stemmed
6 cloves garlic
1 cup (80 g) coarse bread crumbs or panko
Use 1 tablespoon of the oil to coat the slow cooker pot. Spread the onion in the bottom of the pot and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange layers of the vegetables on top, seasoning each layer lightly with salt and pepper: first eggplant, then roasted peppers and tomatoes; then basil, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes, basil, and eggplant; and, finally, peppers and tomatoes on top. Tuck the garlic cloves in around the vegetables. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the bread crumbs and a pinch of salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and crunchy, 2 to 4 minutes.
If there’s a lot of excess liquid in the cooker pot, use a large spoon to press down on the layers of vegetables and scoop it out without disturbing the layers too much. Spread the fried bread crumbs on top and serve.
10 oil-cured olives, pitted
1 clove garlic
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces (225 g) fresh mozzarella cheese
With a mortar and pestle, pound the olives, garlic, and crushed red pepper to a paste (or use a chef’s knife on a cutting board, then scrape into a bowl). Whisk in the lemon juice and oil. Tear the cheese into rough bite-size pieces, put them in a bowl, and toss with the olive dressing. Cover and refrigerate.
Set the mozzarella out at room temperature for 10 minutes, then serve.
WITH fried baguette
ALSO GOOD WITH tangy potato salad (THIS PAGE) marinated bean and tomato salad (THIS PAGE)
This is a great way to get a whole lot of greens into a meal—the creamy potato in the soup is comforting and familiar, the lemon bright and fresh.
Load the cooker.
Add the spinach and lemon juice, puree the soup, and fry the almonds.
3 russet potatoes, chopped
1 cup (140 g) whole almonds Salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch (about 10 ounces/280 g) kale
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 big handfuls baby spinach
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Put the potatoes, ½ cup (70 g) of the almonds, 1½ teaspoons salt, the pepper, and 6 cups (1.4 L) water in the slow cooker. Wash the kale, then gather it back into a bunch and cut the leaves crosswise into 1½-inch (4-cm) lengths. Add to the cooker, packing it down so it fits. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Coarsely chop the remaining ½ cup (70 g) almonds. In a skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the almonds and cook, stirring, until they’re lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.
Add the spinach and lemon juice to the soup and use an immersion blender to puree until it’s as smooth as possible—this could take a few minutes. Season with more salt, if needed. Serve the soup, topping each serving with almonds.
Baguette
Olive oil
Salt
Cut the bread into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths, then split each piece in half horizontally. In a skillet or sauté pan (the one you cooked the almonds in is fine), heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add some of the bread in a single layer, cut side down, and fry until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and repeat to cook the remaining bread. Serve.
WITH herb salad
ALSO GOOD WITH grizzled asparagus (THIS PAGE)
OR garlic sautéed dandelion greens (THIS PAGE)
Why not make a baked potato or sweet potato the center of your meal? Add a protein-rich creamy sauce (no need for butter here), lemony spiced almond chunks, and something green, and it’s a perfect light but satisfying meal.
Foil-wrap the potatoes and, if you have time, make the almonds and tofu cream.
Unwrap, split, and serve.
4 to 6 russet potatoes or sweet potatoes (as many as will fit in your cooker; you can fill it to the top)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the tofu cream:
8 ounces (225 g) silken tofu
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Grated zest of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon hot paprika
For the smoky almonds:
1 cup (140 g) whole almonds, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
½ teaspoon salt
Grated zest of 1 large lemon
Wrap the potatoes tightly in aluminum foil (thin, not-heavyweight is easiest to use here) and arrange them in the slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Make the tofu cream: Put all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend to combine. Transfer to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Make the smoky almonds: Put all the ingredients in a skillet or sauté pan and toss to combine. Place over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and tossing frequently, until very fragrant (an understatement) and deeply browned, 4 to 5 minutes. The smaller almond bits and spices will become almost black, and that’s okay. Scrape into a bowl and set aside at room temperature until ready to serve.
Using tongs, remove the potatoes from the cooker, unwrap them, and split each down the center lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the tofu cream and almonds.
4 ounces (115 g) baby lettuces
½ cup (30 g) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves (no stems)
6 fresh basil tops, torn
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon olive oil
Toss the lettuces, parsley, and basil in a large bowl; season with a couple of good pinches of salt and several grindings of pepper and use your hand to distribute the seasonings to every leaf. Squeeze in the lemon juice, drizzle in the oil, and toss well. Serve.
WITH tomato-furikake salad
ALSO GOOD WITH honey-lemon raw red pepper relish (THIS PAGE) OR green apple rojak (THIS PAGE)
The distinctive toasted-butter flavor of ghee nicely complements the sweetness of miso and corn in this summery soup.
Sauté the onion and load up the cooker.
Stir in the miso and crush some of the potatoes to thicken.
2 tablespoons ghee (this page)
½ onion, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ears sweet corn
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks
4 cups (960 ml) vegetable stock (this page) or water
2 tablespoons miso paste
3 scallions, sliced
In a skillet or saucepan, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent and golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Scrape the onion and ghee into the cooker. Cut the kernels from the corn cobs and put the kernels and two or three of the cobs in the slow cooker. Add the potatoes to the cooker. Pour in the stock. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Remove and discard the corn cobs. Stir the miso paste into the soup and season with salt and pepper. Use a spoon to break up some of the potatoes to thicken the chowder. Sprinkle with the scallions and serve.
1 teaspoon rice vinegar Salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pint (10 ounces/280 g) cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half
1 large sprig fresh basil
Generous sprinkling of furikake (see Note)
In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, a good pinch of salt, and the oil. Add the tomatoes to the bowl; tear in the basil leaves and toss to coat with the dressing. Sprinkle with plenty of furikake and serve.
NOTE: You can find furikake, a Japanese blend of seaweed, sesame seeds, and various other flavorings that’s usually used to season rice, in the Asian section of a good supermarket, or in any Asian grocery store. In the latter, there will likely be lots of varieties to choose from; I like the ones with hijiki and a large percentage of sesame seeds, but I think any of them would be great here.
WITH spiced pepitas and chipotle quark
ALSO GOOD WITH marinated bean and tomato salad (THIS PAGE) OR avocado-lime topping (THIS PAGE)
You can use any kind of winter squash here—red kuri, kabocha, pie pumpkin, Hubbard, acorn—or a combination of several if you have stray pieces of larger squash in your fridge … they’ll each taste a bit different but they’ll all cook up about the same. Feel free to add a carrot or two, or sweet potato.
Sauté the onion and garlic and load up the cooker.
Stir in the masa and puree the soup.
1 large (2½-pound/1.2-kg) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks
4 cups (960 ml) vegetable stock (this page) or water
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons masa harina
Put the squash in the slow cooker with the stock.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted and golden at the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Scrape into the cooker. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) water into the skillet and stir to scrape up any browned bits, then pour into the cooker. Add 1 teaspoon salt and several grindings of pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Ladle about 1 cup (240 ml) of the liquid into a small bowl and whisk in the masa, then scrape back into the cooker. With an immersion blender, puree the soup until very smooth. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed, then serve.
For the spiced pepitas:
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ cup (65 g) pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ancho chile powder
Salt
For the chipotle quark:
1 cup (240 ml) quark (this page) or plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat) or labneh
1 to 2 chipotle chiles in adobo, with some of the sauce
Pinch of salt
Make the spiced pepitas: In a medium skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the pepitas, cumin, chile powder, and a good pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until most of the pepitas have expanded and the spices are fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape into a small bowl and serve hot or leave on the counter and serve at room temperature.
Make the chipotle quark: Puree all the ingredients in a mini food processor or blender (or finely mince the chipotles on a cutting board and stir them into the quark). Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 5 days.
HOW TO DEAL WITH THE REST OF THE CAN OF TOMATO PASTE OR CHIPOTLE CHILES
How many of you open a can of tomato paste or chipotle chiles in adobo (both of which appear more than once in this book), use a bit of it, cover the can and refrigerate it, and then forget about it until the can is rusty and the contents fuzzy green and you need another tablespoon of tomato paste or chipotles? I know my own self, and I am not conscientious enough to use those leftovers in a timely way, so I go ahead and take the time to tablespoon the tomato paste onto waxed paper and freeze it until firm, then transfer it to a freezer bag (it can be dropped into the slow cooker straight from the freezer). I’ll mince or puree the extra chipotles and sauce in a mini food processor, or pound them in a mortar and pestle, and refrigerate the puree in a clean canning jar (which won’t rust) or freeze it.
WITH tangy potato salad
ALSO GOOD WITH quesadillas sincronizadas (THIS PAGE) OR whole grain peach salad (THIS PAGE)
It might seem odd to slow-cook good summer tomatoes for a simple soup like this one, but they stay fresh-tasting and summery even after a daylong stint in the slow cooker. For an exceptionally smooth and luscious soup worthy of dinner guests, either peel the tomatoes in the morning or strain the soup after you puree it in the evening.
If you’d like, peel the tomatoes. Load up the cooker.
Puree the soup and blend in the cream cheese, if using. If needed, strain the soup.
4½ pounds (2 kg) ripe tomatoes
2 (14- to 16-ounce/400- to 455-g) cans white beans, drained, or about 3 cups cooked and drained white beans (this page)
1 large sprig fresh basil
1 cup (240 ml) vegetable stock (this page)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons cream cheese (optional)
If you’re not planning to strain or food-mill the soup in the evening, you might wish to peel the tomatoes now (a serrated peeler is good for this). Coarsely chop the tomatoes and put them in the slow cooker with the beans, basil, stock, 1 teaspoon salt, and several grindings of pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
With an immersion blender, puree the soup until very smooth. If you’d like, pour the soup into a sieve set over a large bowl or pot and push it through with a rubber spatula (or pass it through a food mill fitted with the smallest-holed disk), discarding the seeds and bits of skin in the sieve, then return the soup to the cooker to reheat. Blend in the oil and the cream cheese, if using. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve.
If you happen to have fresh lovage, mince some stalks and leaves and add them with the celery for the most delicious potato salad ever.
2 pounds (910 g) russet potatoes, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
Salt
6 tablespoons (90 ml) cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon-style or Creole mustard
Lots of freshly ground black pepper
3 ribs celery, diced with leaves
½ sweet onion, diced
1 kosher dill pickle, finely diced
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Add 2 teaspoons salt, bring to a boil, and cook until just tender, about 10 minutes.
While the potatoes are cooking, in a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Drain the potatoes and add them, still hot, to the bowl and toss to coat, mashing a few of the potato pieces with a fork. Toss in the celery, onion, and pickle; season with more salt and pepper, if needed. Serve warm or let cool, cover, and refrigerate until evening and serve cold.
WITH sautéed fresh poblanos and corn
ALSO GOOD WITH chili garnishes (THIS PAGE), broiled sweet onions (THIS PAGE),
OR warm corn tortillas (SEE THIS PAGE)
Yes, this is an old-school tofu-as-beef-substitute chili, and maybe chili should properly be in quotation marks, but I think there’s a place for different versions of the protein-plus-chile-and-cumin stew. Earthy mushrooms and lots of dark-red ancho chile powder, and a little hit of tamari at the end, give it a deep flavor.
Press the tofu to remove as much water as possible.
Sauté the onion and mushrooms, then the tofu and spices.
Serve.
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ large onion, diced
Salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound (455 g) mushrooms, finely chopped
1 pound (455 g) extra-firm tofu, pressed (see Note)
2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
½ teaspoon dried oregano
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes
1 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed, or about 1½ cups cooked and drained kidney beans (this page)
Tamari or soy sauce (if needed)
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and mushrooms and turn the heat to high; cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms have released their liquid and it has mostly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Scrape into the slow cooker.
Return the skillet to medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, then crumble in the drained tofu. Cook for 1 minute, then add the ancho chile powder, cumin, chipotle chile powder, and oregano, stir for 30 seconds, and scrape into the cooker. Pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker. Stir in the tomatoes, beans, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with tamari, if needed, then serve.
NOTE: Cut the tofu into slabs ½ inch (12 mm) thick. Extract as much of the water from the tofu as possible, using one of these methods:
1. Arrange the slices between paper towels on a plate and set another plate on top, weighted down with heavy pots or cans. Let drain for 30 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature, or up to overnight in the refrigerator, replacing the paper towels once or twice, if possible.
2. Arrange the slices on a plate and cook in a microwave oven for 3 minutes, place another plate on top to make a sandwich, and squeeze the plates together to drain off the excess liquid.
You could use 2 cups (330 g) cooked and drained hominy (this page) instead of the corn.
1 tablespoon
½ onion, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 poblano chiles, seeded and diced
2 cups (270 g) fresh or frozen corn kernels
½ teaspoon ground cumin
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the poblanos, corn, and cumin and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add about ¼ cup (60 ml) water, increase the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until it has mostly evaporated, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
TO ACCOMPANY Seared Tofu with Spiced Mustard Greens, THIS PAGE
Try leftovers on sandwiches, in tacos, on quesadillas, with scrambled eggs and cilantro, and so on.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil or ghee (this page)
1 small shallot, thinly sliced
1 coin fresh ginger, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 pint (10 ounces/280 g) cherry or grape tomatoes
1 tablespoon jaggery or brown sugar
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper, or to taste
Pinch of salt
In a small saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, ginger, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds. Cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. (If making this more than 8 hours in advance, cover and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before serving.)
WITH sweet tomato chutney (THIS PAGE)
ALSO GOOD WITH lightly spiced basmati rice (THIS PAGE) OR cranberry-orange wild rice (THIS PAGE)
You’ll have plenty of greens to go around, so, if you’d like, cook more tofu (a large griddle would be useful here) to serve more people or for a more substantial plate, or cook a pot of rice to round out the meal.
Sauté the onion and load up the cooker.
Puree the sauce, reheat the onion mixture, and sear the tofu.
2 bunches (1 pound/455 g) mustard greens, washed and finely chopped (remove stems thicker than a pencil)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee (this page), or more, if needed
1 large onion, sliced
Salt
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
2 to 3 tablespoons cream cheese
1 (14-ounce/400-g) block extra-firm tofu
Pack the mustard greens into the slow cooker and pour in 1½ cups (360 ml) water.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a good pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes. Scrape half of the onion mixture into the cooker over the greens. Sprinkle in the coriander, paprika, cumin, turmeric, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Continue to cook the remaining onion mixture in the skillet over medium-low heat until very deeply browned and soft, adding a splash of water, if needed, to keep the onion from sticking, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the mustard seeds and set aside in the skillet until evening.
Reheat the onion and mustard seed mixture.
Using an immersion blender, puree the ingredients in the cooker until very smooth, adding the cream cheese and blending to incorporate it. Season with salt, if needed, and cover to keep warm.
Cut the tofu into slabs or small squares ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 12 mm) thick and pat dry with a paper towel. In a large skillet or sauté pan (or using a large griddle), heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the tofu in a single layer (work in batches if necessary, with more oil) and cook without disturbing it until nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes. With a thin metal spatula, turn the tofu and brown the other side, then transfer to the puree in the cooker. Top with the sautéed onion and serve.
WITH baby kale salad with dates and pistachios
ALSO GOOD WITH quick-cooked shredded collards (THIS PAGE) OR seared radicchio (THIS PAGE)
I was determined to figure out how to make a risotto-type dish with barley in the required eight hours, and after three or four attempts I finally hit on two key elements: using ice to slow the start of cooking, so the barley would be less likely to overcook (it’s okay if it does; it’s just that the texture is a little more interesting when there are distinct barley grains in the mix), and folding tangy buttermilk into the barley just before serving (it gives the dish a lightness that it was lacking in my previous versions using cream).
Brown the onion and garlic and load up the cooker.
Stir in the buttermilk.
1½ cups (300 g) pot barley (that is, hull-less but not pearled)
2 cups (320 g) diced peeled butternut squash (½-inch/12-mm pieces)
3 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cups (310 g) ice cubes
6 tablespoons (90 ml) buttermilk
Parmesan cheese
Rinse the barley in a sieve under running water, then dump it into the slow cooker. Add 3 cups (720 ml) water, the squash, thyme, 1½ teaspoons salt, and several grindings of pepper.
In a skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until deeply browned, about 7 minutes, adding the garlic in the last 2 minutes. Scrape into the cooker and add the ice. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Remove and discard the thyme stems. Gently fold in the buttermilk, season with more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve with a generous sprinkling of shaved or grated Parmesan on top.
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
5 ounces (140 g) baby kale
½ cup (60 g) pitted dates, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
In a large salad bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and salt, then gradually whisk in the oil until the dressing is emulsified. Add the kale and toss with your hand to coat. Top with the dates and pistachios and serve.
WITH spiced chopped vegetables
ALSO GOOD WITH fresh sweet mango and date relish (THIS PAGE) OR sweet tomato chutney (THIS PAGE)
For even more fresh turmeric flavor and color, go ahead and grate a second thumb-size piece on top of the finished dal.
Sauté the aromatics and load up the cooker.
Stir in the salt and lemon juice.
2 cups (about 380 g) mixed lentils and hearty grains (I like half yellow split peas, a quarter red lentils, and a quarter hard red wheat berries)
8 ounces (255 g) small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in half
1 tablespoon ghee (this page) or vegetable oil
½ onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 coins fresh ginger, chopped
2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 or 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, split but kept in one piece
1 thumb-size piece fresh or frozen turmeric root
Salt
Juice of ½ lemon, or to taste
Put the lentils and grains in a sieve and rinse under running water. Dump into the slow cooker and add the potatoes and 6 cups (1.4 L) water.
In a skillet or sauté pan, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion, garlic, ginger, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Scrape into the cooker and add the chiles. Scrape the peel off the turmeric root (use a small spoon for this), then finely grate it into the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season the dal with salt and stir in the lemon juice. Serve.
Save time in the evening by chopping all the vegetables in the morning—refrigerate the onion, garlic, and ginger in one container, the cabbage and carrot in another.
1 tablespoon ghee (this page) or vegetable oil
½ onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 coins fresh ginger, chopped
Salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon turmeric
½ head cabbage (any kind; about 14 ounces/400 g), cored and finely chopped
1 carrot, diced
½ cup (75 g) shelled peas
1 cup (180 g) chopped tomato
In a large deep skillet or sauté pan, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion, garlic, ginger, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring for about 5 minutes. Add the spices and stir for 1 minute. Add the cabbage and carrot, salt to taste, and 1 cup (240 ml) water, stir, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring in the peas and tomatoes in the last 2 minutes.
WITH cardamom roasted sweet potatoes
ALSO GOOD WITH lemon kale (THIS PAGE) OR plain yogurt
Usually I use whole spices in a dal and temper them in ghee or oil before adding them, either in the beginning of the cooking process or just before serving, but sometimes there just isn’t time for even that little bit of extra prep work, so I’m including this very simple but tasty version that requires little more than loading and unloading the slow cooker. If you’d like, fry some eggs to serve alongside.
Load the slow cooker.
Serve.
2 cups (about 380 g) mixed lentils and hearty grains (I like half red lentils, a quarter toor dal or other firm pulse, and a quarter barley)
¼ cup (45 g) quinoa
6 cups (1.4 L) vegetable stock (this page) or water, or a combination
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon turmeric
½ small head cauliflower, broken into large chunks
1 or 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, split but kept in one piece
Salt
Rinse the lentils and grains and quinoa in a sieve under running water, drain, and put in the slow cooker. Add the stock, then whisk in the coriander, cumin, paprika, and turmeric. Add the cauliflower and chiles. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with salt, if needed, then serve, ladling the chiles into the bowls of those who want more heat.
This recipe is based on one for roasted cauliflower in Suvir Saran’s fantastic book American Masala.
I sometimes toss a handful of fresh curry (neem) leaves in with the vegetables for roasting.
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
½ teaspoon salt
Put the sweet potatoes in a large bowl and toss with the oil. With a mortar and pestle, coarsely crush the coriander seeds, cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, and pepper-corns. Toss the spices with the sweet potatoes to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C) and put a rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat.
Remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and spread the sweet potatoes on it in a single layer, then sprinkle with the salt. Roast until nicely browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve.
WITH cilantro yogurt dollop
ALSO GOOD WITH bok choy brown basmati rice (THIS PAGE) OR lemony seared okra (THIS PAGE)
If you don’t have time to make the masala in the morning, you can mix up and fry it in the evening and stir it into the cooked lentils just before serving.
Pound together the aromatics and fry them.
Season with salt and serve.
1 pound (455 g) brown lentils
1-inch (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, chopped
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 teaspoons hot paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
Pinch of asafoetida (optional, see Note)
1 cup (180 g) peeled and diced tomato
1 tablespoon ghee (this page) or vegetable oil
Salt
Rinse the lentils in a sieve under running water. Dump into the slow cooker and add 7 cups (1.7 L) water.
With a mortar and pestle, pound the ginger, chiles, and crushed red pepper to a coarse paste (or use a mini food processor). Stir in the paprika, turmeric, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, asafoetida, if using, and tomato. In a small skillet or sauté pan, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the tomato mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and a shade darker, 2 to 3 minutes, then scrape into the cooker. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) water into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker and stir well. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with about 2 teaspoons salt, or to taste. To thicken the liquid, either whisk the lentils briskly or hit them briefly with an immersion blender. Serve.
NOTE: Asafoetida, also called hing, is a spice made from dried and ground gum from the root of an herb plant. It’s available in Indian and Middle Eastern grocery stores—often displayed behind glass at the counter. Asafoetida is extremely pungent (I keep my bottle tightly sealed in a plastic bag, and only use a dash or two of it at a time), but its flavor mellows with heat to a slight, hard-to-define undertone of funkiness; it’s often used as a stand-in for onion and garlic.
If you don’t have it, just omit it.
½ cup (120 ml) plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat)
½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh cilantro
Salt
Stir the yogurt, cilantro, and a couple of pinches of salt together in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning. Serve cold.
WITH sautéed green tomatoes with bread crumb topping
ALSO GOOD WITH cumin spiced millet (THIS PAGE) OR simple garlic spinach (THIS PAGE)
This may be my ideal fall vegetarian meal: spicy and warming, tangy and nutty, and deeply satisfying. A dollop of plain Greek yogurt goes nicely with it too.
Puree the chipotles and tomatoes and load up the cooker. If you have time, make the peanut sauce.
Stir in the cilantro.
5 chipotle chiles in adobo, with some of the sauce
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can diced, whole, or crushed tomatoes
2 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or about 3 cups cooked and drained (this page)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks
½ cup (120 ml) chunky natural peanut butter
Juice of 1 lime, or more to taste
Salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Put the chipotles, tomatoes, and 1½ cups (360 ml) water in the slow cooker and use an immersion blender to puree the mixture until smooth (or puree in a blender and transfer to the cooker). Add the chickpeas and sweet and russet potatoes. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
In a small bowl, whisk together the peanut butter, lime juice, and about 6 tablespoons (90 ml) water, or enough to make a pourable sauce. Season with salt. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning, then bring to room temperature or warm in a small pan or the microwave oven before serving.
Stir the cilantro into the stew and season with salt, if needed. Serve the stew with the peanut sauce for drizzling.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup (40 g) coarse bread crumbs
Salt
½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
1 pound (455 g) green tomatoes, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the bread crumbs and a pinch of salt and stir well. Cook, stirring and tossing constantly, until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and set aside.
Return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the mustard seeds, then the tomatoes and a good pinch of salt, and toss well. Cover and cook, tossing occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened and are nicely browned but still hold their shape, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the bread crumbs. Serve.
WITH almond-lemon pistou
ALSO GOOD WITH quickie cilantro-lime topping (THIS PAGE) OR spinach and garlic rice (THIS PAGE)
You’ll have a little leftover spice blend—save it and use it to season roasted vegetables or as a rub for grilled chicken or steak.
Brown the onion, garlic, and spices.
Serve.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped
Salt
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 teaspoons sweet spice blend (see Note), or more, if needed
3 sweet potatoes (about 1½ pounds/680 g), peeled and cut into ¾- to 1-inch (2- to 2.5-cm) pieces
2 russet potatoes (about 14 ounces/400 g), peeled and cut into ¾- to 1-inch (2- to 2.5-cm) pieces
1 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or about 1½ cups cooked and drained (this page)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 cups (720 ml) vegetable stock (this page) or water
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is nicely browned, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Add the spice blend and stir for 15 to 30 seconds, until very fragrant and deep brown, then scrape into the slow cooker. Pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker. Add the sweet and russet potatoes, chickpeas, tomato paste, stock, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Add more salt, if needed, and stir gently; the sweet potatoes will break up a bit and thicken the stew. Serve.
NOTE: To make the spice blend, combine the following in a cup with a fork: 2 teaspoons sweet paprika; 1 teaspoon each of ground coriander, ground cardamom, ground ginger, and ground cinnamon; ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; ¼ teaspoon turmeric; ¼ to ½ teaspoon ground cayenne (to taste).
⅔ cup (95 g) whole almonds
1 cup (40 g) chopped fresh basil with tender stems
Grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
In a skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, toast the almonds, tossing frequently, until dark brown in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
Put the basil, lemon zest and juice, oil, and salt in a mini food processor, add the cooled almonds, and pulse until finely minced and combined—it’ll be like pesto. Transfer to a small serving bowl. If doing this in the morning, cover and refrigerate, and bring to room temperature (if you have time) before serving.
WITH spinach labneh
ALSO GOOD WITH avocado-lime topping (THIS PAGE) OR Mom’s naan (THIS PAGE)
This is based on a recipe for Punjab-style chickpeas by Heather Carlucci that I first saw on Luisa Weiss’s blog The Wednesday Chef a few years ago and have been making frequently ever since. I like this simplified process: Over the hours in the slow cooker, the sauce darkens and browns a bit at the edges, adding layers of flavor with no effort on your part.
Puree the masala (aromatics and spices) and load the cooker.
Serve.
½ onion, chopped
1 shallot, chopped
3 cloves garlic
5 coins fresh ginger
1 jalapeño or serrano chile, chopped
1 tomato, choppped, or ½ cup (120 ml) crushed tomatoes
2½ teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground cayenne
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon turmeric
1½ teaspoons salt
2 (14- to 16-ounce/400- to 455-g) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or about 3 cups cooked and drained (this page)
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Put all the ingredients except the chickpeas and lemon in the slow cooker with ½ cup (120 ml) water and use an immersion blender to puree until smooth (or do this in a blender or food processor and transfer the puree to the cooker). Stir in the chickpeas. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with more salt, if needed, and serve with lemon wedges on the side.
6 ounces (170 g) frozen chopped spinach
1 cup (240 ml) labneh (see Note)
¼ teaspoon salt
Good pinch of ground cumin (optional)
Put the spinach in a sieve and rinse under cold water to thaw it. Squeeze to remove all the liquid—then squeeze some more; you want it to be very dry and crumbly. Put the spinach on a cutting board and use a sharp knife to finely chop it. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the labneh, salt, and cumin, if using, with a fork, breaking up the clumps of spinach as you go. Serve, or cover and refrigerate until evening.
NOTE: You can buy very good labneh in Middle Eastern grocery stores, or easily make your own: Line a fine-mesh sieve with two layers of rinsed and squeezed cheesecloth, set it over a bowl, and dump in a 32-ounce (907-g) container of plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat). Let drain in the refrigerator for as long as you can, up to a couple of days, until it’s very thick, almost like cream cheese. Transfer to a container and keep in the fridge. Save the whey, if you’d like, for smoothies, or to use in place of water in soups or bread doughs.
WITH cucumber yogurt with hot cumin oil
ALSO GOOD WITH shortcut cheese puffs (THIS PAGE) OR warmed corn tortillas (SEE THIS PAGE)
This is a simplified version of Deborah Madison’s famous Zuni Stew, a big pot of pinto beans and vegetables, with handfuls of shredded cheese stirred in just before serving. Her stew also includes chunks of zucchini or yellow squash, but I prefer to leave those out so the flavors are more pure and clear. If you’d like, though, feel free to sauté some squash and fold it into the stew in the evening.
Puree and food-mill the tomatoes.
Stir in the cilantro and cheese.
1 pound (455 g) dried pinto beans
6 plum tomatoes
2 cups (290 g) fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels
1 teaspoon dried epazote (see Note, this page)
2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Freshly ground black pepper
2 dried ancho chiles, seeded
Salt
½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup (115 g) shredded Monterey Jack cheese, or more, if you’d like
Rinse the beans in a sieve under running water, then dump them into the slow cooker. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and puree them in a blender (or in a deep container using an immersion blender), then pass them through a food mill set over the cooker, discarding the seeds and bits of peel (or peel the tomatoes—a serrated peeler works well—and puree them, but don’t bother with the food mill). Add the corn, epazote, chile powder, coriander, cumin, several grindings of black pepper, and 5 cups (1.2 L) water. With kitchen shears, snip the ancho chiles into small pieces into the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with salt to taste (about 2 teaspoons) and more pepper, if needed. Stir in the cilantro and cheese and serve.
10 ounces (280 g) English cucumber (about ½ large), very thinly sliced into rounds
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup (180 ml) plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
Good pinch of ancho chile powder or paprika
Flaky sea salt
In a bowl, sprinkle the cucumber with the kosher salt and toss. Let stand for 15 minutes, then drain and squeeze out excess liquid. Add the yogurt and transfer to a serving dish.
In a small pan, cook the oil and cumin over medium heat, stirring until the cumin is darkened a shade, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chile powder and immediately spoon the spiced oil over the yogurt. Sprinkle with flaky salt and serve.
WITH whole grain peach salad
ALSO GOOD WITH corn muffins (THIS PAGE) OR fried okra (THIS PAGE)
A one-two punch from smoked paprika and chipotle chile powder infuses the black-eyed peas and their cooking liquid with a flavor profile that’s more complex and nuanced than it would be if you used just one or the other. When you lift the lid in the evening, you’ll see that some of the collards will be peeking out of the stock and turning a bit brown—that’s fine; just push them back down when you stir in the salt, and they’ll meld together with the rest of the dish.
Sauté the onion and garlic and load up the cooker.
Add salt.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1½ teaspoons smoked paprika, or more to taste
½ teaspoon chipotle chile powder
5 cups (1.2 L) vegetable stock (this page) or water
1½ cups (250 g) dried black-eyed peas
1 large bunch (1 pound/455 g) collard greens, including stems, chopped
Salt
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, smoked paprika, and chile powder and stir for 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup (240 ml) of the stock and scrape up any browned bits. Scrape the onion mixture into the slow cooker.
Rinse the black-eyed peas and add them to the cooker, along with the remaining 4 cups (960 ml) stock and the collards, pushing the collards down into the stock as well as you can. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Gently stir in salt to taste (about 2 teaspoons) and let cook for 5 or more minutes to allow the beans to absorb the salt. Add more smoked paprika, if needed, and serve.
If you can’t find excellent ripe peaches, use mangoes instead.
1 cup (170 g) quinoa (well rinsed) or other whole grain (see Note)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon maple syrup or honey
1 small shallot, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 ripe peaches, diced
2 small sprigs fresh basil
Put the quinoa in a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan and add 1¼ cups (300 ml) water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir once, then cover and cook over the lowest heat for 15 minutes, or until tender. Dump into a fine-mesh sieve and rinse under cold running water to cool completely; drain very well.
While the quinoa is cooking, in a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, maple syrup, ½ teaspoon salt, several grindings of pepper, the shallot, and oil. Add the peaches and quinoa and toss to coat with the dressing. Cover and
Tear in the basil leaves, toss, season with more salt, if needed, and serve.
NOTE: The quinoa can be replaced with either 3 cups (455 g) cooked hearty grains (if frozen, thaw by rinsing them in a fine-mesh sieve) or one of these quick-cooking grains:
Bulgur: Bring the salted water to a boil, add 1 cup (140 g) fine or medium bulgur, cover, and cook on the lowest heat for 15 minutes.
Couscous: Bring 1½ cups (360 ml) salted water to a boil with 2 teaspoons olive oil, add 1 cup (195 g) whole wheat couscous, cover, remove from the heat, and let stand for 5 minutes.
WITH oven-fried eggs
ALSO GOOD WITH olive-marinated fresh mozzarella (THIS PAGE) OR spinach-Gruyère toasts (THIS PAGE)
This dish is inspired by one I tested for Julia Sherman for her book Salad for President. The creamy, falling-apart lima beans suspended in emulsified broth and fruity olive oil with tart dried tomatoes are revelatory. If you have ground sumac on hand, definitely sprinkle some over the whole dish for another layer of contrasting tartness.
Load up the cooker.
Fold in the sun-dried tomatoes.
1 pound (455 g) dried large lima beans
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil (drained from sun-dried tomatoes if there’s extra in the jar)
1 large sprig fresh rosemary
⅓ cup (35 g) oil-packed sundried tomatoes, coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small sweet onion, very thinly sliced
Paprika and/or ground sumac
Lemon wedges
Rinse the beans and put them in the slow cooker with the oil, rosemary, and 6 cups (1.4 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Gently stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and season with salt and plenty of pepper to taste. Scatter the raw onion over the top and sprinkle with paprika. Serve with the lemon wedges alongside for squeezing over individual servings.
1 tablespoon ghee (this page) or vegetable oil
4 eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Put the ghee on a small rimmed baking sheet and put it in the oven to heat up. Let the pan with the ghee heat for 5 to 10 minutes after the oven is up to temperature so it’s very hot.
Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven, tilt it to coat the bottom with ghee, and crack the eggs onto the pan with as much space between them as possible. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake until the whites are set, the edges are crisp, and the yolks are thickened, about 4 minutes. Remove the eggs from the pan with a metal spatula and serve.
WITH seared radicchio
ALSO GOOD WITH lemon kale (THIS PAGE) OR quick-cooked shredded collards (THIS PAGE)
Here again I’m lucky to have the opportunity to improve on a recipe I developed for my first slow cooker book. This ribollita, a traditional Italian bread soup, is much less fussy and more aggressively flavorful—don’t skimp on the black pepper.
Load up the cooker.
Fold in the bread and tomatoes and season the soup.
8 ounces (255 g) dried white beans
8 ounces (255 g) dried cranberry beans
2 large carrots, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
2 ribs celery with leaves, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
1 Yukon Gold or peeled russet potato, diced
½ onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large sprig fresh rosemary
2 cups (140 g) cubed crusty bread
2 tomatoes, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rinse the white and cranberry beans in a sieve under running water. Dump them into the slow cooker and add the carrots, celery, potato, onion, garlic, rosemary, and 8 cups (2 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Turn the cooker to high. Fold in the bread and tomatoes. Season the soup with salt and plenty of pepper, cover, and cook until the bread and tomatoes have broken down somewhat and the bread has thickened the soup, about 15 minutes. Serve.
1 head radicchio (about 12 ounces/340 g total)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the bottom of the radicchio head and cut the head into wedges that are about 1½ inches (4 cm) thick on the widest side, keeping the core intact. Put on a plate and rub the oil all over the wedges, keeping them as wedge-like as possible, and sprinkle with salt (about ½ teaspoon total) and several grindings of pepper. Heat a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. When a drop of water on the surface evaporates immediately, it’s hot enough. Add the radicchio, cut side down, in a single layer (you might need to do this in two batches) and cook without disturbing them for 2 to 3 minutes, until deeply browned. Using tongs or a thin metal spatula, turn the wedges and brown the other cut side. Remove to a platter or serving bowl and serve.
WITH garlic sautéed dandelion greens
ALSO GOOD WITH herb salad (THIS PAGE) OR oven-fried eggs (THIS PAGE)
My friend Leda told me about a meal she’d had in an upscale field-to-table restaurant in Canada, and on the menu was a word I’d never encountered before: sagamité. Sagamité comes up in European colonizers’ accounts of the foods prepared by Native Americans and Canadian First Peoples, and is most often described as a porridge of Indian corn (either nixtamalized or parched), sometimes with beans or a little wild game or fat, and chunks of pumpkin or other hard squashes, and sometimes sweetened. This is my interpretation, based on those descriptions (though not, I should say, on one Jesuit’s description centuries ago of sagamité as being comparable to wallpaper paste). I was surprised by how well these elements came together in a delicious, hearty, and, I might add, kid-pleasing meal.
Load up the cooker.
Cook the grits and fold them into the beans with the maple syrup.
1½ cups (290 g) dried pinto beans
½ large butternut squash, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 teaspoon dried epazote (see Note, this page)
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
⅔ cup (115 g) hominy grits
2 tablespoons maple syrup, plus more for serving
Rinse the beans under running water, then dump them into the slow cooker and add the squash, epazote, and 6 cups (1.4 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Stir in the salt, then ladle about 2½ cups (600 ml) of the liquid from the cooker into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits and cook until tender and thick, adding more liquid, if needed, about 10 minutes. Scrape the cooked grits into the cooker and gently fold them into the beans and squash and add the maple syrup. Serve with more syrup on the side for drizzling.
If you’re not concerned about keeping the meal vegetarian, I’d highly recommend using schmaltz (this page) in place of the olive oil.
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch (about 14 ounces/400 g) mature dandelion greens, chopped
Salt
Heat the oil and garlic in the skillet over medium-high heat, stirring. Cook about 2 minutes, then add the greens and a good pinch of salt. Cook, tossing with tongs, until the leaves with the thickest stems are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot.
WITH roasted tomatoes and croutons
ALSO GOOD WITH lemon kale (THIS PAGE) OR carrot-top pesto (THIS PAGE)
In very-long-cooked dishes, the sharp edge of garlic’s flavor can be lost—slow-cooked garlic has its own appeal, of course, but sometimes I want that strong bite. Here I sauté the garlic and drizzle the sizzling hot garlic oil into the creamy soup just before serving.
Load up the cooker.
Scoop out excess liquid, add the tahini, puree the soup, and make the garlic oil.
1 pound (455 g) dried Great Northern beans
6 cups (1.4 L) vegetable stock (this page) or water
Pinch of crushed red pepper
3 tablespoons tahini
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
Rinse the beans in a sieve under running water. Dump them into the slow cooker and add the stock and crushed red pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Ladle out and discard excess liquid, if there is any—the stock should just cover the cooked beans. Stir the tahini into the soup. With an immersion blender, puree about half of the beans to thicken the soup. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper.
In a small sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and cook, stirring, until golden, about 3 minutes. Scrape the hot garlic oil into the soup. Serve.
1 pound (455 g) cherry tomatoes
4 cups (200 g) cubed crusty bread (in ¾-inch/2-cm pieces)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 sprig fresh basil
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Put a rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat.
In a large bowl, toss together the tomatoes and bread, then drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with the salt and several grindings of pepper, tossing well. Spread the mixture on the hot baking sheet and roast until the tomatoes have collapsed and the bread is golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Tear in the basil, use a large spatula to transfer to a serving dish or platter, and serve.
WITH seared halloumi and chile mince
ALSO GOOD WITH spinach labneh (THIS PAGE) OR cucumber yogurt with hot cumin oil (THIS PAGE)
Black, or beluga, lentils are well worth seeking out—they hold their shape and add great texture to long-cooked dishes like this stew.
Cook the onion and spices.
Stir in the tomatoes.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 teaspoons hot paprika
½ teaspoon smoked paprika, or more to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 cup (200 g) black (beluga) lentils
1 cup (185 g) dried black beans
½ cup (120 ml) crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Salt
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the hot and smoked paprikas and the cumin and stir for 15 seconds. Pour in 1 cup (240 ml) water and scrape up any browned bits. Scrape the mixture into the slow cooker.
Put the lentils and beans in a sieve and rinse under running water, then dump into the cooker. Pour in 5 cups (1.2 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Turn the cooker to high and stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, and about 2 teaspoons salt (or more to taste); add more smoked paprika, if needed. Cover until heated through, then serve.
You can serve this as a topping for the lentils and beans dish or as a side.
1 bunch fresh cilantro or parsley, chopped
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, chopped, seeded if you’d like less heat
3 sweet mini peppers, seeded and chopped
Juice of ½ lime
Salt
10 ounces (280 g) halloumi cheese, cut into slabs ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
Put the cilantro, chiles, sweet peppers, lime juice, and a good pinch of salt in a mini food processor and pulse to finely mince (or use a chef’s knife and mince the cilantro, chiles, and peppers together on a cutting board, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the lime and salt). Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over medium heat. When a drop of water on the surface evaporates almost instantly, add the cheese slices in a single layer (in batches if necessary) and cook without disturbing them until nicely browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip with a thin spatula and brown the other side. Serve the cheese topped with the chile mince.
WITH shortcut cheese puffs
ALSO GOOD WITH almond couscous (THIS PAGE) OR dark bread, eggplant quark, and pickled beet stems (THIS PAGE)
—either use beet greens instead of chard below or pickle the chard stems
There’s really nothing fancy about this dish; it’s simple and satisfying just as it is, but also quite adaptable—feel free to add spices to the chard just before you scrape it into the cooker: Cracked toasted coriander would be nice, as would a good pinch of ground cayenne or crushed red pepper, or a spoonful of cumin seeds and mustard seeds.
Load up the cooker. Chop the chard and mince the garlic in the morning or evening.
Sauté the chard and fold it into the stew.
1½ cups (310 g) dried navy beans
3 cups (410 g) frozen sweet corn kernels
1 teaspoon dried epazote (see Note)
½ onion, diced
½ large bunch Swiss chard
1 clove garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Rinse the beans and put them in the slow cooker with the corn, epazote, onion, and 4 cups (960 ml) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Coarsely chop the chard, including the stems, and mince the garlic. If doing this in the morning, cover and refrigerate.
Turn the cooker to high and season the stew with salt and pepper.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the chard and garlic and a pinch of salt and cook, tossing with tongs, until just tender, 5 to 7 minutes, adding a splash of water, if needed, to keep the leaves from sticking. Gently fold into the stew. Serve.
NOTE: Dried epazote (a fragrant herb) is available in Mexican markets and in good supermarkets. Try to get epazote “de comer,” as it’ll say on the label—this kind has fewer tough stems to pick out.
Makes 24
I love pão de queijo, the little Brazilian cheese rolls, but they’re kind of a pain to make, and I can never get the consistency just right. These rolls, made in a mini muffin tin from a thin batter, are more like chewy, cheesy popovers but satisfy a similar craving. If you have leftovers, they’re fantastic warmed up the next morning and eaten with coffee.
1 cup (240 ml) milk
½ cup (120 ml) vegetable oil
1 large egg
2 cups (240 g) tapioca flour (tapioca starch)
4 ounces (115 g) grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Spray a mini muffin tin with cooking oil spray.
In a blender, combine all the ingredients. Pour into the muffin tin wells, filling them almost to the top. Bake until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Loosen the edges with a thin knife and pop the puffs out of the pan. Serve warm.
