Feta Moussaka
Simple garlic spinach
Lamb Harira
Beghrir and honey water
Lamb with Turnips and Yogurt
Lemony seared okra
Lamb, Rhubarb, and Parsley Khoresh
Cumin-spiced millet
Sichuan Lamb Shanks
Scallion pancakes
Curry Goat and Potatoes
Brown rice and peas
Nash’s Tomato Goat Curry
Coconut chutney
WITH simple garlic spinach
ALSO GOOD WITH grizzled asparagus (THIS PAGE) OR dilled cucumbers (THIS PAGE)
It may be a little sloppy, and not as compact as a baked moussaka held together with béchamel, but this one has all the right flavors and (most of the) classic textures of tender layered potato slices and mint-scented lamb sauce. I’ve also made versions in which the feta is sprinkled atop each potato layer, but this method, with feta simply spread on top at the end of cooking, is simpler.
Sear the eggplant, brown the lamb and onion and garlic, and layer the ingredients in the cooker.
Sprinkle with feta and serve.
Olive oil
1 eggplant (about 1¼ pounds/570 g), peeled and cut into slabs ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound (455 g) ground lamb
1½ teaspoons dried mint
½ teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can crushed tomatoes
1 (6-ounce/170-g) can tomato paste
2 small russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
4 ounces (115 g) feta cheese, crumbled
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat a thin film of oil over medium-high heat. Add a couple of slabs of eggplant and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until seared, about 1 minute per side, and remove to a plate. Repeat with the remaining eggplant.
In the same skillet, swirl 1 tablespoon oil. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the lamb and cook, stirring, until most of the pink has disappeared, 3 to 5 minutes; drain and add the mint, marjoram, 1 teaspoon salt, several grindings of pepper, the tomatoes, and tomato paste.
In the slow cooker, make layers, lightly sprinkling the potato layers with salt and pepper: eggplant slices, lamb sauce, potatoes—repeating until the ingredients are used up and ending with sauce. Cover, inserting a heavy-duty paper towel underneath the lid to collect condensation, and cook on low for 8 hours.
Sprinkle the feta over the top and let stand until the cheese has softened a bit and the casserole has settled. Use a thin metal spatula to cut down through the layers and lift out servings.
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch of crushed red pepper
8 ounces (255 g) spinach
Salt
In a large deep skillet or sauté pan, or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and stir with tongs until it’s just golden, about 1½ to 2 minutes. Add the crushed red pepper and pile in the spinach; sprinkle lightly with salt, then toss with the tongs until the spinach is just wilted and starting to stick to the pan, about 2 minutes. Taste and add more salt, if needed (I use a scant ½ teaspoon total). Lift the spinach to a serving bowl and serve.
WITH braised cabbage
ALSO GOOD WITH quick-cooked shredded collards (THIS PAGE) OR lemon kale (THIS PAGE)
If you’re new to using lamb in your home cooking, this would be a fine recipe to start with—a rib-sticking stew with the friendliest winter vegetables, bulked up with nutty whole-grain barley.
Brown the lamb.
Add the parsley.
12 ounces (340 g) boneless lamb stew meat, in 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
¾ cup (150 g) pot (not pearled) barley
1 leek (white and light green parts), halved lengthwise, washed, then sliced crosswise ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
2 ribs celery, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
1 russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add the lamb and cook, turning with a thin metal spatula, until the pieces are browned on at least two sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker. Pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the hot skillet and scrape up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker.
Rinse the barley in a sieve under running water, then add it to the cooker, along with the leek, carrots, celery, potato, and 6 cups (1.4 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Stir in the parsley and add more salt and pepper, if needed. Serve.
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ onion, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ small head green cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
In a deep skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the cabbage, a good pinch of salt, several grindings of pepper, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, then uncover and cook, turning the cabbage occasionally, until very tender, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed, then serve hot.
WITH beghrir and honey water
ALSO GOOD WITH baby kale salad with dates and pistachios (THIS PAGE) OR herb salad (THIS PAGE)
Harira is a widely variable stew that’s often served in Morocco for late-night meals during Ramadan; the only real constants among the many recipes I’ve seen are lentils and chickpeas. This version features just a bit of tender lamb, which is mostly for flavoring the lentils (you could reasonably use even less than the amount I suggest here). It’s traditionally served with dates and lemon wedges, and beghrir, holey pancakes dipped in warm diluted honey.
Brown the lamb and load up the cooker.
Stir in the cilantro.
1 tablespoon ghee (this page) or olive oil
12 ounces (340 g) lamb stew meat, cut into small pieces
1 pound (455 g) brown or red lentils
1 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or about 1½ cups cooked and drained chickpeas
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can crushed tomatoes
2 teaspoons paprika
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (10 g) chopped fresh cilantro
Lemon wedges
Pitted dates (optional)
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the lamb and cook, turning with a metal spatula, until the pieces are lightly browned on one or two sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) water into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker.
Rinse the lentils in a sieve under running water. Dump into the cooker and add the chickpeas, tomatoes, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, and 5 cups (1.2 L) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with salt (about 2 teaspoons) and several grindings of pepper. Stir in the cilantro. If you’d like, hit the lentils with an immersion blender for a couple of seconds (it’s fine if some of the lamb gets blended) to break them up and thicken the stew. Serve in bowls or on plates if the stew is very thick, with lemon wedges and dates, if desired, on the side.
Makes about 30 (4-inch/10-cm) pancakes
2¼ cups (380 g) semolina flour
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon honey, plus ¼ cup (60 ml) or more for serving
3½ cups (840 ml) warm water
1 teaspoon salt
Put all the ingredients (add the salt last) in a blender and blend until just combined. Let stand until very bubbly and risen slightly, about 30 minutes, or, if you’re doing this in the morning, put the batter in the refrigerator until evening.
If the batter is in the fridge, take it out and let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes. Stir the batter gently if it has separated. It should be very bubbly and light. Heat a large well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick griddle (or use a skillet and make just one or two at a time) until a drop of water on the surface evaporates immediately. Ladle ¼-cup (60-ml) spoonfuls of batter onto the griddle and cook until the bottoms are deep golden and the tops are fully dry and riddled with holes, about 2 minutes; don’t flip them—cook on one side only. Use a thin metal spatula to transfer the beghrir to a platter in a single layer and repeat to make more. If there aren’t many holes in the surface, let the batter stand for a bit longer before making more.
In a small saucepan or microwave-safe cup, warm equal parts honey and water until they can easily be stirred together. Serve with the beghrir for dipping or drizzling.
WITH lemony seared okra
ALSO GOOD WITH Mom’s naan (THIS PAGE) OR lightly spiced basmati rice (THIS PAGE)
My friend Regan made a lamb and turnip curry dish similar to this for one of the many inspiring dinners she made for us and other friends years ago. The bitterness of the turnips is offset by the creamy yogurt.
Sauté the onion, garlic, and ginger and set aside until evening. Brown the lamb.
Puree the sauce with the yogurt.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee (this page)
½ large onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
Salt
12 to 14 ounces (340 to 400 g) boneless lamb stew meat in 1½-inch (4-cm) pieces
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cayenne
12 to 14 ounces (340 to 400 g) small turnips (about 3), peeled and cut into quarters
½ cup (120 ml) plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat)
½ teaspoon garam masala
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring until golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and set aside until evening (refrigerate and reheat, if you’d like).
In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the lamb and sprinkle it with the coriander, turmeric, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, turning occasionally with a thin metal spatula, until the lamb is browned and crusty on one or two sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker and pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the pan and stir to scrape up any browned bits; pour the liquid over the lamb. Pile the turnips on top. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb and turnips to a bowl. With an immersion blender, blend in the yogurt a little at a time, then the garam masala. Season with more salt, if needed. Return the lamb and turnips to the sauce and serve topped with the onion mixture.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee (this page)
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
8 ounces (225 g) okra, stems trimmed, cut in half lengthwise
½ teaspoon salt
½ lemon, cut into wedges and seeded
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot and cook, stirring, until nicely browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the okra and salt and shake the pan to distribute the halves evenly in the pan. Cook, pressing down with a spatula so they get maximum hot-surface contact, for 1 minute, then toss, shake them into an even layer again, and cook, pressing, for another 1 minute. Continue doing this until the okra is bright green, tender, and blackened in spots, about 7 minutes total; the shallot will get very dark brown or black—and that’s what you want. Squeeze the lemon wedges over the okra, toss in the squeezed lemon, and serve.
WITH cumin-spiced millet
ALSO GOOD WITH fancy saffron-butter basmati rice (THIS PAGE) OR almond couscous (THIS PAGE)
My mom suggested I make a “spring lamb stew,” and this is what I came up with. Probably not what she meant, but I honestly could not have come up with anything more springlike than this beautifully pink and green, delightfully tart Persian-inspired khoresh.
Brown the lamb and sauté the onion.
Sauté the remaining rhubarb and fold it and the herbs into the stew.
1½ pounds (680 g) boneless lamb stew meat, in 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, diced
½ teaspoon turmeric
2 large bunches fresh parsley (about 7 ounces/200 g total)
1 pound (455 g) rhubarb
1 bunch fresh mint, stemmed
1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
Season the lamb with 1 teaspoon salt and several grindings of pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add the lamb and cook, turning with a thin metal spatula, until the pieces are browned on at least two sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker.
Return the skillet to medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil, the onion, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, add the turmeric and stir for 30 seconds, then pour in ½ cup (120 ml) water and scrape up any browned bits. Scrape the onion mixture into the cooker.
Finely chop the thickest parsley stems from the bunches and add them to the cooker. Slice half of the rhubarb cross- wise ½ inch (12 mm) thick and add the slices to the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Finely chop the remaining parsley and the mint leaves together. Slice the remaining rhubarb on the bias ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. If doing this in the morning, put the herbs and rhubarb in containers and refrigerate.
In a skillet or sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the rhubarb and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 5 minutes, adding the sugar in the last minute. Gently fold the rhubarb and the parsley and mint into the stew. Season with more salt and sugar, if needed, then serve.
1½ cups (300 g) millet
1½ tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon salt
Rinse the millet in a sieve under running water. Put the oil and cumin seeds in a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, place over medium-high heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and darkened a shade, 1½ to 2 minutes. Add the millet and cook, stirring frequently, until you can just smell the millet (it smells a bit like cornmeal), about 3 minutes. Stir in the salt and 2½ cups (600 ml) water (carefully, as it will sputter a bit), bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to low, cover, and cook until all the water is absorbed and the grains are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Fluff and serve.
WITH scallion pancakes
ALSO GOOD WITH cumin-spiced millet (THIS PAGE)
A while back, I saw a reference to a roast lamb shank dish served at Supernormal, a pan-Asian restaurant in Melbourne, Australia, and immediately ordered Andrew McConnell’s book from overseas, hoping the recipe for the dish would be in it. (It was.) Having never tried the original dish, I don’t know if this slow cooker version is even remotely similar—I’ve simplified the seasonings and technique a great deal here—but it’s delicious. The sauce, while not nearly as complicated as the original recipe (and lacking any very hard to find ingredients), is layered and complex: salty and fragrant, tangy and just barely sweet. The shanks are fancy enough for a dinner party—if you’d like, allow one shank for every two people, and remove the meat from the bones before serving. Or do as I would and just have people pull the meat off the bone with tongs as they serve themselves from a platter.
Four lamb shanks will just barely fit in an oval 3½- or 4-quart (3.5-L) slow cooker (I don’t think a round pot would hold them). You could increase the quantities by half (six shanks, etc.) and use a larger cooker if you’d like each person to have his or her own shank—a very generous serving.
Brown the lamb and sauté the garlic and ginger. If you have time, toast and grind the Sichuan peppercorns.
Puree the sauce.
1 tablespoon freshly ground toasted cumin
1 tablespoon hot paprika
½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
Salt
4 lamb shanks
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 cloves garlic, chopped
3 coins fresh ginger, chopped
¼ cup (60 ml) Shaoxing wine
3 tablespoons yellow soybean paste, or 2 tablespoons miso paste
¼ cup (60 ml) oyster sauce
1 (14.5-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns
In a cup, combine the cumin, paprika, five-spice, and 1 teaspoon salt. Rub the mixture into the lamb shanks. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. Add two of the shanks and cook, turning with tongs, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker and brown the remaining shanks in the oil left in the skillet.
Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel if there are lots of dark spice bits, then add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the garlic, and ginger and cook over medium heat for 1 minute. Pour in the wine, scraping up any browned bits, then remove from the heat and stir in the soybean paste, oyster sauce, and tomatoes. Pour the mixture over the lamb in the cooker and turn to coat the shanks with the sauce. The sauce won’t cover the shanks completely, but try to nestle the shanks in as snugly as possible. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
In a small skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, toast the Sichuan peppercorns, stirring frequently, until fragrant and darkened a shade, about 3 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely grind with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. Set aside in a small serving bowl.
Using tongs, transfer the lamb shanks to a large platter. With an immersion blender, puree the sauce in the cooker, season with salt, if needed, then spoon it over and around the lamb. Serve, with the Sichuan peppercorns on the side for sprinkling.
Makes 12
This recipe is closely based on one in Corinne Trang’s Essentials of Asian Cuisine—it always works perfectly. You can stack the rolled-out pancakes between layers of waxed paper, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate them for up to a day or freeze for several weeks before pan-frying (no need to defrost first).
2 cups (255 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for pan-frying
Sesame oil for brushing
Salt
1 bunch scallions, very thinly sliced
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder, then drizzle in the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and toss. Stir in about 1 cup (240 ml) water to make a soft dough. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead until it’s smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes; it shouldn’t be stiff. If it’s difficult to knead, set it aside to rest for a few minutes before trying again. Cover with the overturned bowl and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.
Shape into a log and cut into twelve equal portions. Use a small rolling pin to roll each portion into a thin rectangle about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long. Brush lightly with sesame oil, sprinkle lightly with a pinch of salt and scallions, then roll up the rectangle from one long side to enclose the scallions. Shape the roll into a flat spiral and pinch the end to the spiral to secure it. Using the rolling pin, lightly floured, roll the spiral out as thin and flat as possible (the scallions will poke through the dough, and that’s fine), then set aside and repeat to make the remaining pancakes. Put them on a plate in a single layer, or with waxed paper between the layers, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat about ⅛ inch (3 mm) vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add two or three pancakes and cook until nicely browned on each side, 4 to 5 minutes total. Remove to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining pancakes and more oil, if needed, then serve.
WITH brown rice and peas
ALSO GOOD WITH basic coconut rice (THIS PAGE) OR garlic sautéed dandelion greens (THIS PAGE)
Hot curry powder plus two Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles will make a sinus-clearingly spicy curry (which is just right for me, but may be a bit much for others). Use a Jamaican or mild curry powder and/or just one chile to dial it back.
Brown the goat and onion and garlic.
Puree the sauce.
2 pounds (910 g) well-trimmed boneless goat stew meat, in 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
3 tablespoons Madras (hot) or Jamaican curry powder (see Note)
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon turmeric
Salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ sweet onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 (13.5-ounce/400-ml) can coconut milk
1½ teaspoons fresh thyme
2 Yukon Gold or peeled russet potatoes (about 14 ounces/400 g), cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) pieces
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and torn
1 or 2 Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, slit in a few places
1 scallion, thinly sliced
Put the goat in the slow cooker and toss the pieces in the curry powder, allspice, turmeric, and 1½ teaspoons salt to coat. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. Add half of the goat and cook until the pieces are browned on two or more sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining oil and goat (it’s okay if some of the spices remain in the cooker). Return all the goat and any accumulated juices to the slow cooker.
To the skillet over medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook until softened a bit, about 3 minutes. Pour in ½ cup (120 ml) water, scraping up any browned bits, then scrape into the cooker. Stir in the coconut milk, thyme, potatoes, and tomato, and tuck in the Scotch bonnet chiles. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Turn the cooker to high. Remove and discard the chiles. Gently stir the curry a bit to loosen it up, then use a slotted spoon to transfer the goat, potatoes, and most of the tomatoes and other solids to a bowl. With an immersion blender, puree the sauce, tilting the cooker so the blender head is submerged. Return the goat and vegetables to the cooker and season with more salt, if needed. Serve, with the scallion sprinkled on top.
NOTE: I prefer Madras curry powder here; it’s much more flavorful and complex than the Jamaican variety, which is more turmeric-dominated and often includes salt and granulated garlic (and a little allspice). Use the Jamaican, though, if you’re after a dish that’s truer to its Caribbean roots.
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts kept separate
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
1½ cups (270 g) long-grain brown rice
1 small (5.6-ounce/165-ml) can coconut milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups (400 g) cooked and drained Central American small red beans (this page), or 1 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
In a wide 3-quart (3-L) saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the scallion whites and garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the allspice and rice and stir for 30 seconds. Stir in the coconut milk, 2½ cups (600 ml) water, ½ teaspoon salt, and several grindings of pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is evaporated and absorbed, about 25 minutes.
Pile the beans and scallion greens on top, drizzle in another ½ cup (120 ml) water, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and almost all the liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Stir gently to fold in the beans, season with more salt, if needed, and serve.
WITH coconut chutney
ALSO GOOD WITH cardamom roasted sweet potatoes (THIS PAGE) OR spiced chopped vegetables (THIS PAGE)
My friends Nash Patel and Leda Scheintaub have a very popular food truck in Brattleboro, Vermont, called Dosa Kitchen, and they’re currently at work on a cookbook of truly masterful dosa recipes and the curries and chutneys and everything else that goes with dosas. Nash graciously sent a recipe for an intensely fragrant goat curry (probably the best aroma that’s ever emanated from my kitchen), which I’ve adapted for the slow cooker and streamlined a bit for weekday home cooking.
Make the spice paste and sauté the aromatics.
Cook the rice.
2 pounds (910 g) boneless goat stew meat, in 1- to 1½-inch (2.5- to 4-cm) pieces
1 teaspoon turmeric
3 tablespoons dried grated unsweetened coconut
1 cinnamon stick, broken
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
1½ teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
Seeds from 8 green cardamom pods
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can crushed tomatoes
Salt
2 tablespoons coconut oil
10 to 15 fresh curry leaves (see Notes)
1 large red onion, diced
2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste (see Notes)
1 teaspoon paprika or Kashmiri chile powder, or more to taste
2 cups (360 g) basmati rice, or dosas made with store-bought batter
Put the goat in the slow cooker and toss with the turmeric.
In a skillet or sauté pan, combine the coconut, cinnamon, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, peppercorns, cloves, and cardamom. Place over medium heat and toast, stirring frequently, until fragrant and the coconut is golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Scrape into a spice grinder and let cool for a few minutes. Grind very fine and add to the cooker, along with the tomatoes and 1½ teaspoons salt.
In the skillet or sauté pan, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the curry leaves, onion, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent and golden at the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the ginger-garlic paste and paprika and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Scrape into the cooker and stir well. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) water into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, and pour the liquid into the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Put the rice in a sieve and rinse very well under running water. Dump into a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan and add 2¼ cups (540 ml) water and a good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir once to unstick any grains from the bottom of the pan, then cover and cook over the lowest heat for 14 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed and the rice is tender. Let stand, covered, for 3 minutes, then fluff with a fork or spatula.
Season the goat with more salt or paprika, if needed, and serve with the rice.
NOTES: Look for curry leaves in Indian, Middle Eastern, or Asian grocery stores and get a bunch of them if you find good-looking—glossy, bright green—sprigs. They’ll keep, in a tightly sealed bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer, for weeks, and are wonderful in dal (see pages 43, 45, and 46 for examples) and any roasted vegetables (see the sweet potatoes on this page).
To make ginger-garlic paste for the refrigerator or freezer: In a mini food processor, pulse two parts chopped ginger and one part garlic cloves until very finely minced, adding a little water, if needed, to get the paste moving in the processor. Spoon 1-tablespoon portions into an ice cube tray and freeze, putting the cubes in a freezer bag when they’re solid; or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
1 cup (85 g) dried grated unsweetened coconut
¼ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1 cup (240 ml) hot water
1 tablespoon coconut oil
5 fresh curry leaves (see Notes at left)
1 tablespoon urad dal (skinned split black gram, optional)
½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
1 small serrano chile, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon ginger-garlic paste (see Notes at left)
Put the coconut, salt, and hot water in a blender or mini food processor and set aside to soak for 5 minutes.
In a small skillet or sauté pan, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat. Add the curry leaves, urad dal, if using, mustard seeds, serrano chile, and ginger-garlic paste; stir for 30 seconds, then remove from the heat.
Blend or process the coconut and water until smooth, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the oil and seasonings. Add more salt, if needed. Cover and refrigerate until evening.