Your Basic Chili
Fresh-corn cheddar cornbread
No-Ketchup Sloppy Joes
Smothered butter beans
Cincinnati-Style Chili
Romaine salad with creamy herb dressing
Unconstructed Cabbage Rolls
Dilled cucumbers
Meatballs in Marinara
Parmesan roasted broccoli spears
Ragù Bolognese
Celery, spinach, and Parmesan salad
Spinach Meatloaf
Honey-lemon raw red pepper relish
Brisket with Carrots and Prunes
Skillet potatoes
Weekday Sunday Gravy
Basil zucchini
Simple Pot Roast with Dried Porcini
Garlic braised broccoli rabe
Sweet-Dark Onion Soup
Spinach-Gruyère toasts
Beef and Butternut Squash Tagine
Almond couscous
Beef with Winter Savory and Cipollini
Roasted Brussels sprouts and shiitakes
Brisket Soup with Rice Noodles
Soy-steamed broccoli
Creamed Beef with Whole Wheat Pastry Crisps
Grizzled asparagus
Jungle Curry Stew
Sweet corn curry cakes
Garlicky Short Ribs
Basic soft polenta
Beef Shanks with Lemon and Rosemary
Ginger-butter carrots
Rendang Pedang
Lemongrass rice
Wintry Borscht
Dark bread, eggplant quark, and pickled beet stems
Oxtails with Allspice, Thyme, and Habaneros
Creamed cauliflower
WITH fresh-corn cheddar cornbread
ALSO GOOD WITH chili garnishes (THIS PAGE) OR sautéed fresh poblanos and corn (THIS PAGE)
I’m no purist when it comes to chili. (If you are, turn to the dried chile–based one on this page.) I appreciate just about any long-cooked stew with a protein and cumin and chiles—with or without tomatoes, beans, even fresh chiles and corn; it’s all fair game as far as I’m concerned. Here is a very simple chili, which I hope you’ll see as a template for tweaking: Add more tomatoes, if you’d like, or different varieties of chile powder (and some cayenne for more heat), add some corn kernels or diced sweet peppers at the end, substitute a few chopped fresh or canned tomatillos for some of the tomatoes, try soy sauce or a splash of fish sauce instead of Worcestershire—make it your own.
Brown the beef and onion and load up the cooker.
Serve.
3 pounds (1.4 kg) ground beef (chuck is good)
1 onion, diced
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder, or more to taste
2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can diced tomatoes
1 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed, or about 1½ cups cooked and drained kidney beans (this page)
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Heat a large skillet or sauté pan over high heat and add one third of the beef. Cook, breaking it up and stirring with a spatula or spoon, until almost all the pink is gone, about 5 minutes, then drain off any liquid and transfer the meat to the slow cooker. Repeat with the remaining beef in two batches. Add the onion, cumin, chile powder, salt, crushed and diced tomatoes, beans, and Worcestershire sauce to the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with more salt and/or chile powder, if needed, then serve.
If you’d like to save time in the evening, mix the dry ingredients in the morning and leave them on the counter, and mix the wet ingredients and cover and refrigerate. In the evening just dump the wet into dry, stir, pour into the hot skillet, and bake.
2 cups (360) fine cornmeal, preferably stone-ground, white or yellow
½ cup (65 g) all-purpose flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1½ cups (360 ml) buttermilk
1 cup (115 g) shredded cheddar cheese
1 cup (135 to 145 g) fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels (from about 1 ear)
2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, seeded and minced (optional)
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil, plus more for the skillet
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Oil a 10-inch (25-cm) cast-iron skillet and put it in the oven as it heats up.
In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. In another large bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, cheese, corn, chiles, if using, cilantro, and oil. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the cornmeal mixture and stir with a rubber spatula until just incorporated. Scrape the batter into the hot skillet and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Slice into wedges and serve straight from the skillet (keep a pot holder on the handle to avoid mistakenly grabbing on to the hot pan).
WITH chili garnishes
ALSO GOOD WITH chilled radish chips (THIS PAGE) OR avocado-lime topping (THIS PAGE)
Instead of rehydrating the chiles and tomatoes, blending, and straining, you can use 3 cups (720 ml) chili base (this page) and skip to the beef browning step.
Simmer the dried chiles to make the chili base. Brown the beef.
Whisk in the masa harina to thicken the stew.
4 ounces (115 g) guajillo and/or New Mexico chiles (about 16), stemmed and snipped into pieces with scissors
3 to 6 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed, or more, if you’d like more heat
1 ancho chile, stemmed and seeded (optional)
½ cup (30 g) sun-dried tomatoes, or 2 plum tomatoes, chopped
4 cups (960 ml) boiling water
3 pounds (1.4 kg) beef for stew
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 (12-ounce/360-ml) bottle of beer
1 tablespoon chili powder (see Note)
2 morilla chiles (smoke-dried red jalapeños) (optional)
6 tablespoons (45 g) masa harina, or more, if needed
Shake out as many of the guajillo seeds as possible (but don’t lose your mind over it). Put the guajillo chiles, chiles de árbol, ancho chile, if using, and tomatoes in a blender and pour the boiling water over them. Let soak for at least 10 minutes, until the chiles are softened. Puree until very smooth. Set a fine-mesh sieve over the slow cooker and pour in the chile puree, pushing the puree and liquid through with a spatula; discard the bits of skin and seeds in the sieve.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add one-third of the beef and cook until browned on one or more sides, 3 to 5 minutes total, then scrape into the cooker and repeat with the remaining oil and beef. Return the skillet to high heat and pour in the beer, scraping up any browned bits. Boil the beer until reduced by half, about 5 minutes, then pour into the cooker. Add the chili powder, morilla chiles, if using, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Ladle a bit of the liquid into a small bowl and whisk in the masa harina, then stir the mixture back into the chili. If you’d like a thicker stew, repeat with more masa harina. Season with more salt, if needed. Serve, removing and discarding the morilla chiles, if you’d like.
NOTE: For the chili powder, you can combine 2 teaspoons ancho chile powder, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon onion powder, and a pinch of dried oregano.
Sliced avocados
Lime wedges
Sliced radishes
Chopped fresh cilantro
Sour cream, quark (this page), or plain Greek yogurt
Diced onion
Corn tortillas, warmed (see this page)
Arrange all the garnishes on a platter and in bowls and serve.
WITH smothered butter beans
ALSO GOOD WITH two peas with marjoram (THIS PAGE) OR tangy potato salad (THIS PAGE)
Sloppy Joes fall into the same category of food nostalgia for me as s’mores: loved them as a kid, and appreciate the concept in general, but now find the original versions so cloying as to be (almost) inedible. Following is my correction to the usual oversweet, sticky Sloppy Joe, no ketchup needed. To my adult palate it tastes exactly as I remember it tasting as a kid—and my daughter probably has no idea that this messy sandwich she likes so much is usually a whole lot sweeter.
Brown the beef.
Toast the buns.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 pounds (1.4 kg) ground beef (chuck is best here)
1 small red bell pepper, diced
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can crushed tomatoes
4 heaping tablespoons (85 g) tomato paste
2 teaspoons onion powder
½ teaspoon dry mustard powder
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup brown sugar, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soft buns, split
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef and cook, stirring and breaking it up, until no pink remains, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain off excess liquid, then dump the beef into the slow cooker. Stir in the bell pepper, tomatoes, tomato paste, onion powder, mustard powder, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and several grindings of black pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Toast the buns in a toaster or on a baking sheet under the broiler. Season the beef with more salt, pepper, and brown sugar, if needed, then serve on the buns.
If you make this with frozen home-cooked limas (this page), they’ll need only 10 minutes of simmering.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 pint (10 ounces/280 g) cherry or grape tomatoes, halved, or quartered if large
12 ounces (340 g) frozen baby lima beans, rinsed and drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large skillet or sauté pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until golden, about 1½ minutes. Add the tomatoes and lima beans; season with salt and pepper. Add 1 cup (240 ml) water, cover, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes longer, until the lima beans are tender, tossing occasionally and adding a little more water if the pan seems dry. Serve.
WITH romaine salad with creamy herb dressing
ALSO GOOD WITH Parmesan roasted broccoli spears (THIS PAGE) OR herb salad (THIS PAGE)
I’ve been refining this recipe for at least eleven years, and I’m pretty sure this is how I’ll make Cincinnati chili (a favorite of my husband Derek’s) from here out, with just a hint of sweet spice and a square of chocolate melted in at the end. How you want to serve it is up to you: Go for the traditional interpretation with spaghetti, beans, and a snowy mound of finely shredded orange cheddar, or just serve it on its own.
Puree the tomatoes and aromatics. Sauté the ground beef, drain, and load the cooker.
Stir in the chocolate.
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can whole or crushed tomatoes
1 small onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cayenne, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) ground beef
2 cinnamon sticks
1 ounce (28 g) unsweetened chocolate
Accompaniments (optional):
1 pound (455 g) dried spaghetti
2 (14- to 15-ounce/400- to 430-g) cans kidney or other red beans, drained and rinsed, or about 3 cups cooked and drained beans (this page)
8 ounces (225 g) sharp cheddar cheese
Put the tomatoes, onion, garlic, cumin, cloves, allspice, cayenne, a large pinch of salt, and several grindings of black pepper in the slow cooker and use an immersion blender to puree it (tilt the cooker if necessary to keep the blender head submerged).
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the beef and cook, turning frequently with a metal spatula and breaking up the pieces, until no longer pink, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain in a colander (or put a lid over the pan and pour off the excess liquid and fat). Scrape the beef into the slow cooker and add the cinnamon sticks. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Stir the chocolate into the chili and let it melt, then season with salt to taste. Put the lid back on and reheat for a few minutes or as long as it takes to set the table and/or prepare any accompaniments.
Make the accompaniments, if you’d like: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add several pinches of salt. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package instructions, until al dente. While the spaghetti cooks, put the beans in a sieve and dip them into the boiling water for a few seconds to heat; transfer to a small bowl. Drain the spaghetti and put in a bowl. Into another bowl or onto a piece of waxed paper, very finely grate the cheese—you can use the small holes on a box grater or, for even snowier results, a Microplane zester. Tong a nest of spaghetti into shallow bowls, top with the beans, then a huge pile of cheese.
1 cup (240 ml) quark (this page) or plain thick Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat) or labneh
1 cup (50 g) chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
3 to 4 romaine hearts
In a mini food processor or blender, combine the quark, parsley, basil, lemon juice, salt, and several grindings of pepper, pulsing until the herbs are finely minced. Add water a tablespoon at a time, until the dressing is thick but just pourable, 2 to 3 tablespoons. Add more salt and pepper, if needed.
Cut off the bottoms of the lettuce heads, coarsely chop the leaves, and wash and spin dry. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning (right in the salad spinner, or in a resealable plastic bag).
Toss the lettuce with dressing to just coat the leaves. Serve immediately.
WITH dilled cucumbers
ALSO GOOD WITH pan-seared green beans (THIS PAGE) OR two peas with marjoram (THIS PAGE)
This stew has all the flavors of cabbage rolls—right down to the citric acid and ginger snap cookies used by my western-Pennsylvania grandmother—but none of the fuss associated with steaming a head of cabbage, removing the leaves, and forming the actual rolls.
Brown the beef and cook the onion.
Cook the rice.
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) ground beef
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes
½ teaspoon citric acid
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ onion, diced
8 ginger snap cookies
½ head green cabbage, cored and cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) chunks
2 cups (370 g) long-grain white rice
In a large skillet or sauté pan, cook the beef over medium-high heat, stirring to break it up, until most of the pink is gone, 5 to 8 minutes. Pour off any liquid and transfer the beef to the slow cooker; stir in the tomatoes, citric acid, 1½ teaspoons salt, and plenty of pepper.
Return the skillet to medium heat and add the oil, onion, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in ½ cup (120 ml) water and scrape up any browned bits, then stir the onion and liquid into the beef mixture. Add the cookies, put the cabbage on top, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Put the rice in a sieve and rinse very well under running water. Dump into a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan and add 2¼ cups (540 ml) water and a good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir once to unstick any grains from the bottom of the pan, then cover and cook over the lowest heat for 14 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed and the rice is tender. Let stand, covered, for 3 minutes, then fluff with a fork or spatula.
Stir the cabbage and beef mixture, season with more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve over the rice.
1 English cucumber (about 15 ounces/430 g)
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Two pinches of sugar
Very thinly slice the cucumber into rounds (a mandoline is best for this). Put them in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt and dill, then toss to distribute the salt and dill evenly. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly over the cucumbers and flatten them in the bowl (or stack another bowl on top of the first to press the cucumbers down). Put weights (cans of tomatoes, for example) on the cucumbers and refrigerate until evening.
Remove the weights and plastic and drain the cucumbers well, squeezing them to remove excess liquid. Sprinkle with the vinegar and sugar, toss well, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
WITH chicken pâté toasts
ALSO GOOD WITH grizzled asparagus (THIS PAGE) OR herb salad (THIS PAGE)
I wanted to include both the familiar cream-enriched ragù (this page) and this more unusual meat sauce for pasta, because I think there’s a place for each of them in the home cook’s repertoire. The contrasting additions of bright lemon zest and funky quick-sautéed chicken livers just before serving make this sauce company-worthy. Both this sugo and the ragù make excellent weekend slow cooking projects—make a bunch and freeze it for even easier meals later.
Rehydrate the porcini, and sauté the onion, garlic, and beef.
Cook the pasta and chicken livers, if using, and stir the lemon zest and parsley into the sauce.
½ ounce (14 g) dried porcini mushrooms
1½ cups (360 ml) hot water
1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil
½ onion, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound (455 g) lean ground beef
¼ cup (60 ml) red wine
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 rib celery, finely diced
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes, or 1 (24-ounce/680-g) jar passata di pomodoro (strained tomatoes)
Fresh or dried long pasta
2 large chicken livers (about 3½ ounces/100 g total), finely chopped (optional)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Put the mushrooms in a bowl and cover with the hot water; set aside to soak.
In a skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute, then add the beef and cook, stirring, until most of the pink is gone. Pour in the wine and scrape up any browned bits, then scrape the mixture into the slow cooker. Add the carrot, celery, and tomatoes.
Lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid, agitating them gently to make sure no sand remains lodged in them. Mince the mushrooms and add them to the cooker. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into the cooker, discarding any grit in the bottom of the bowl. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente; drain.
If you’re using the chicken livers, in a skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil. When it shimmers, add the livers and cook, stirring, until cooked through and a little crisp in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Scrape into the sauce in the cooker. Stir in the lemon zest and parsley, season with salt and pepper, and serve with the pasta.
If you’re using chicken livers in the sauce, just use whatever’s left of the pound here. Otherwise use the full pound.
1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ cup (40 g) minced shallot (about 1 large)
¼ cup (60 ml) brandy or red wine
Scant 1 pound (455 g) chicken livers, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons minced fresh sage, plus more for garnish
2 teaspoons drained capers (optional)
About 6 thin slices crusty bread, toasted
In a small saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot and cook, stirring, until it’s just starting to brown at the edges, about 3 minutes. Add the brandy, increase the heat to medium-high, and boil for 1 minute. Add the livers, ¾ teaspoon salt, several grindings of pepper, and a splash of water and cook, stirring frequently, until the livers are just cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes—cut into a thick piece to check: They should have just a bit of pink in the center. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a mini food processor and pour in most of the liquid. Add the sage and pulse until the mixture is quite smooth. Stir in the capers, if using. If doing this in the morning, transfer to a sealable container and refrigerate. If doing this in the evening, let the pâté cool to just warm before serving.
Spread the pâté (either cold or still warm) onto slices of toast, top each with a sage leaf, and serve.
WITH Parmesan roasted broccoli spears
ALSO GOOD WITH basil zucchini (THIS PAGE) OR spinach-Gruyère toasts (THIS PAGE)
If you have a bit of space in your freezer, it almost always makes sense to mix up extra meatballs and freeze them for another meal, as the amount of prep work involved in making double the quantity is only negligibly greater.
Shape the meatballs and put half of them in the freezer for next time. Briefly brown the meatballs and load up the cooker.
Puree the sauce.
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can whole tomatoes
2 carrots, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (120 ml) milk
1 cup (100 g) fine dry bread crumbs
2 large eggs
½ cup (50 g) grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup (13 g) chopped fresh parsley
3½ pounds (1.6 kg) lean ground beef, or 1 pound (455 g) ground turkey and 2½ pounds (1.2 kg) ground beef
1 tablespoon olive oil
Dried spaghetti or other long pasta
Put the tomatoes, carrots, garlic, a good pinch of salt, a grinding of pepper, and 1 cup (240 ml) water in the slow cooker.
In a large bowl, combine the milk, bread crumbs, eggs, cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, several grindings of pepper, and the parsley and stir well. Add the beef and use your hands or a stiff spatula to combine it with the milk mixture. Shape into 2-inch (5-cm) balls and put half of them on a waxed paper–lined tray in the freezer (when they’re firm, transfer to a freezer bag and keep in the freezer for up to 3 months; thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then brown and slow-cook as below).
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the unfrozen meatballs in a single layer (work in batches, if necessary, with a little oil for each batch) and cook, turning with a thin metal spatula, until lightly browned on two or more sides, 4 to 5 minutes total—they don’t have to be completely browned all over or cooked through. Transfer to the cooker, nestling them into the sauce. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente; drain.
Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the meatballs to a bowl. With an immersion blender, puree the sauce. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed, then return the meatballs to the sauce. Serve with the pasta.
2 heads broccoli with long stalks (about 1¼ pounds/570 g)
2 tablespoons olive oil
⅓ cup (30 g) grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the bottom ⅛ inch (3 mm) off the broccoli stalks and use a knife or a vegetable peeler to scrape the tough outer layer of the stalks. Cut the broccoli heads into rough spears—a small floret at the top, with as much of the long stalk as possible attached to each. (If you have time, and if you prefer softer broccoli, blanch it for 1 to 2 minutes in a pot of boiling water, drain in a colander, and cool under running water.) If doing this in the morning, put in a baking dish or bowl, cover, and refrigerate.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Put a large not-nonstick baking sheet in the oven to heat.
Drizzle the broccoli with the oil and rub it in well with your hands to thoroughly coat the spears. Sprinkle with the cheese, a couple of good pinches of salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Toss well. Spread the broccoli on the hot baking sheet in a single layer (it should be hot enough that the broccoli sizzles immediately), scraping any cheese and oil left in the baking dish over the spears. Roast until the broccoli is tender and the cheese bits are nicely browned, about 20 minutes. Use a thin metal spatula to remove the broccoli (and any browned bits of cheese) from the baking sheet to a serving dish or platter and serve.
WITH celery, spinach, and Parmesan salad
ALSO GOOD WITH garlic braised broccoli rabe (THIS PAGE) OR grizzled asparagus (THIS PAGE)
This and the sugo recipe on this page are adaptations of somewhat more complicated recipes by Giuliano Bugialli. His are the only ragù recipes I’ve seen that call for snipping the meat into the pot with shears—a technique well worth trying out in this case, as it yields a pleasant nubby-shredded consistency that you wouldn’t get if using ground meat or by shredding larger pieces after cooking.
Sauté the onion and prosciutto, snip the meat with kitchen shears, and load up the cooker.
Stir in the cream and cook the pasta.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 slices prosciutto, diced
½ onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 rib celery, finely diced
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes, or 1 (24-ounce/680-g) bottle passata di pomodoro
1½ pounds (680 g) beef sirloin or half sirloin and half pork loin
½ cup (120 ml) white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fresh or dried tagliatelle or fettucine pasta
¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream
In a large skillet or sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the prosciutto and onion and cook, stirring, until the onion is very soft and golden, 8 to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the carrot, celery, and tomatoes in the slow cooker. Using kitchen shears, snip the beef sirloin into tiny pieces into the cooker (or use a knife and finely mince on a cutting board and transfer to the cooker).
To the skillet with the onion, add the wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes to reduce slightly. Stir into the tomato mixture in the slow cooker, along with 1 teaspoon salt and several grindings of pepper. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente; drain.
Stir the cream into the ragù. Season with more salt, if needed, and serve with the pasta.
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ribs celery
6 ounces (170 g) baby spinach
About 1½ ounces (40 g) Parmesan cheese
In a salad bowl using a fork, whisk the lemon juice, salt, and several grindings of pepper to dissolve the salt, then gradually whisk in the oil.
Trim and very thinly slice the celery on the bias and toss it with the dressing. Add the spinach and toss. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the cheese over the top. Serve.
WITH honey-lemon raw red pepper relish
ALSO GOOD WITH braised cabbage (THIS PAGE) OR ginger-butter carrots (THIS PAGE)
Meatloaf is one of those comfort foods I fall back on every couple of months; the only problem with it is that a decent-size one (hello, leftovers) takes forever to bake in the oven—always longer than I expect, which doesn’t work very well for weekdays, exactly when I tend to want comforting meals. I’ll admit I was surprised to discover only recently that an excellent old-school meatloaf can be made in a slow cooker. The top doesn’t get as browned and crusty as it does in the oven, but that’s fixed here with a toasted bread crumb topping that’s added just before serving.
Shape the meatloaf and put it in the cooker. Dry out the bread crusts.
Toast the crust crumbs.
2 slices soft bread, crusts removed and reserved, torn into pieces (about 1 cup/60 g)
½ cup (120 ml) milk
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground fennel (optional)
1 (10-ounce/283-g) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
¼ cup (13 g) chopped fresh parsley
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into ⅛-inch (3-mm) cubes
2 pounds (910 g) ground meat (I like half lean beef, a quarter pork, and a quarter turkey)
4 sticks celery, cut to the width of your cooker
1 tablespoon olive oil
In a large bowl, combine the torn bread and the milk, then add the eggs, salt, several grindings of pepper, and the fennel, if using, and stir well. Stir in the spinach, parsley, and carrot, then add the ground meat and mix with your hands to thoroughly incorporate them into the spinach mixture. Shape into a loaf in the bowl.
Arrange the celery sticks crosswise in the bottom of the slow cooker pot (to hold the meatloaf up over the liquid it will release), then drape a large sheet of aluminum foil crosswise in the cooker over the celery and up and over the sides of the pot. Turn the meatloaf out of the bowl and onto the foil in the cooker. Cover the cooker (catching the foil under the lid) and cook on low for 8 hours. If you’re cooking for less than 8 hours, check the internal temperature of the meatloaf with an instant-read thermometer; it should be at least 160°F (70°C).
Tear the reserved bread crusts into small crumbs and spread on a baking sheet in the oven to dry out until evening.
Drizzle the crumbs with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake until the crumbs are golden.
Carefully use the foil to lift the meatloaf out of the cooker and transfer it to a platter. Top with the toasted crumbs and serve.
1 red bell pepper, diced
½ sweet red onion, diced
Juice of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons honey
Salt
Put the red pepper, onion, lemon, honey, and a good pinch of salt in a mini food processor and pulse until just combined and minced (or mince the vegetables with a knife, transfer to a bowl, and whisk in the remaining ingredients). Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
WITH skillet potatoes
ALSO GOOD WITH quark and caraway mash (THIS PAGE) OR creamed cauliflower (THIS PAGE)
This is fine straight out of the slow cooker, but best if you have time in the evening to cook down the braising liquid to make a sweet-sour glaze for the tender beef (and any vegetables you’d like to serve alongside it).
Brown the brisket.
Slice the brisket and reduce the sauce.
1 (3- to 4-pound/1.4- to 1.8-kg) beef brisket (flat)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup (240 ml) cider vinegar
½ cup (110 g) brown sugar
5 small carrots, peeled
½ cup (80 g) pitted prunes
Season the beef all over with about 2 teaspoons salt and several grindings of pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the brisket and cook until nicely browned, turning once with tongs, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to the cooker.
Pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker. Pour in the vinegar and sprinkle with the brown sugar. Tuck the carrots into the liquid around the brisket. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Using tongs or two sturdy spatulas, transfer the brisket and carrots to a carving board. Pour the liquid from the cooker into a wide saucepan or sauté pan, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Boil until the sauce is reduced a bit and slightly thickened, 10 to 15 minutes, adding the prunes in the last 5 minutes to plump.
Thickly slice the meat and transfer it with the carrots to a serving platter. Pour the sauce and prunes over and serve.
1¾ pounds (800 g) potatoes (russets and 1 sweet potato)
2 tablespoons ghee (this page)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Using a mandoline (or a sharp chef’s knife and mad knife skills), slice the potatoes ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick.
In a 10-inch (25-cm) skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the ghee over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, quickly and carefully add the potato slices in fairly even layers, sprinkling each layer with a pinch of salt and a grinding of pepper. Cover the skillet, lower the heat to medium, and cook the potatoes without disturbing them for 10 minutes. Lift the lid and slide a thin metal spatula underneath to check the level of browning; if the potatoes on the bottom are deeply browned, lower the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes longer, or until the potatoes on the top layer are tender. (If the potatoes are not yet deeply browned, cook for 5 more minutes on medium, then lower the heat and cook for 5 minutes.)
Using the spatula, lift big sections of the potatoes and turn them over so the browned potatoes are on top. Dollop the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee in between the sections, shaking the pan to get it underneath. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, uncovered, for about 5 minutes longer, until the bottom layer is nicely browned. Serve.
WITH basil zucchini
ALSO GOOD WITH grizzled asparagus (THIS PAGE) OR Parmesan roasted broccoli spears (THIS PAGE)
There’s truly no better way to make “gravy” than in a slow cooker. I like the lean round roast here—it’s what my boss at the Italian restaurant always used, ending up with a pot of deeply flavorful marinara and a softball-size hunk of beef that would almost crumble as you sliced it—but a thick chuck roast would be good too.
Brown the roast and the onion and garlic.
Slice the roast and puree the sauce.
1 (3-pound/1.4-kg) beef round roast
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ sweet onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 (28-ounce/794-g) can crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 large sprig fresh basil
Dried pasta
Season the roast all over with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the roast and cook, turning with tongs, until browned on most of the sides, about 7 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker.
Return the skillet to medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the onion, and garlic; cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, 5 to 7 minutes, then pour in ½ cup (120 ml) water and stir to scrape up any browned bits. Pour the liquid over the roast and add the tomatoes, tomato paste, and basil sprig. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente; drain.
Transfer the roast to a carving board and slice it against the grain or pull it apart. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. If you’d like, puree the sauce with an immersion blender. Return the meat to the sauce, or serve the meat on its own and toss the pasta with sauce to coat.
3 zucchini
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large sprigs fresh basil
Cut the zucchini into rounds ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick and mince the garlic. If doing this in the morning, put both in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the zucchini and garlic and spread out in the pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and cook, undisturbed, for 3 minutes. Flip and cook for 3 minutes, then flip again and cook for 3 more minutes, or until the zucchini is nicely browned and just tender. Tear in the basil and serve.
WITH garlic braised broccoli rabe
ALSO GOOD WITH skillet potatoes (THIS PAGE) OR quark and caraway mash (THIS PAGE)
Dried mushrooms give this basic pot roast even more deep, roasty flavor; you can substitute dried shiitakes, if you’d like, or leave them out altogether and add a good beef stock (this page) to the slow cooker instead of the soaking water.
Soak the porcini and sear the roast.
Slice the roast.
½ ounce (14 g) dried porcini mushrooms
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) chuck roast
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ cup (120 ml) red wine
In a small bowl, cover the porcini with hot water and let soak for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, season the roast with about 1½ teaspoons salt and pepper to taste. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the roast and cook for about 5 minutes on each side; transfer the roast to the slow cooker.
Pour the wine into the skillet and stir to scrape up any browned bits, bring to a boil, and cook for 2 minutes; pour the liquid into the cooker. Agitate the porcini a bit to remove any sand, then lift them out of the soaking liquid and add them to the cooker. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into the cooker, leaving any sand in the bottom of the bowl. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the roast to a carving board. Thickly slice or pull apart into serving-size pieces and serve, spooning the porcini and some of the cooking liquid over the meat.
1 bunch broccoli rabe (about 14 ounces/400 g)
3 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup (240 ml) stock
Salt
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Wash the broccoli rabe and trim the bottoms of the stems. If you’d like, cut the bunch crosswise into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths; or leave the leaves and stalks whole. Crush and peel the garlic cloves but keep them mostly whole.
Put the garlic cloves and oil in a large deep skillet or sauté pan. Place over medium heat and cook slowly, turning the garlic with tongs, until the garlic is golden and softened, about 5 minutes. Add the broccoli rabe, stock, a good pinch of salt (less if your stock is salted), and the crushed red pepper. Cover and cook over medium heat until the broccoli rabe stems are tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes, turning the greens in the pan halfway through so they braise evenly. Serve.
LEFTOVER BRAISED MEAT?
Make medieval runzas: Bake these filled buns on a Sunday afternoon and tuck them into lunchboxes throughout the week, or assemble them one evening, stash them in the fridge, and bake them the next day for supper. If you’d like, add a few slivers of Manchego or other cheese as you fill each bun.
1 sweet potato, peeled and diced
3 cups (320 g) minced (food-processored) green cabbage
½ cup (75 g) raisins
1 heaping cup (280 g) pureed pot roast (meat and porcini)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground mace (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dough from 1 recipe crusty rolls (this page), risen until doubled
Put the sweet potato in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, add the cabbage and raisins, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain well in a sieve, then transfer to a large bowl and stir in the meat, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace (if using), salt, and pepper.
Cut the dough into sixteen portions and roll each out on a floured surface to a circle about 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. Put ¼ cup (about 40 g) filling in the center of each, gather the edges of the dough over the filling, and pinch to seal. Arrange seam side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm spot for 30 minutes to 1 hour (or refrigerate for up to 1 day, then bring to room temperature).
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Uncover the buns and bake until nicely browned, 30 to 35 minutes.
WITH spinach-Gruyère toasts
ALSO GOOD WITH seared halloumi and chile mince (THIS PAGE) OR baby kale salad with dates and pistachios (THIS PAGE)
The slow cooker is a wonderful tool for effortlessly cooking onions to a deep brown color and silky tenderness.
Load up the cooker.
Serve.
2 pounds (910 g) onions
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups (960 ml) good-quality beef stock (this page)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon miso paste
1 bay leaf
Cut the onions into quarters, then slice the quarters crosswise ½ inch (6 mm) thick. Put them in the slow cooker and toss with 1 teaspoon salt and several grindings of pepper. Add the stock, tomato paste, miso paste, bay leaf, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with more salt or pepper, if needed, then serve.
½ cup (85 g) packed cooked spinach, squeezed dry and chopped
4 ounces (115 g) Gruyère cheese, chopped
¼ cup (60 g) cream cheese
½ teaspoon dry mustard powder, such as Coleman’s
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
6 to 8 diagonal slices of baguette
Put the spinach, Gruyère, cream cheese, mustard powder, and nutmeg in a mini food processor and pulse to combine well, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
Preheat the broiler to high and set a rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the heat source. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and broil until golden, about 2 minutes. Flip the slices and spread them with the spinach-cheese mixture. Return to the oven and broil until the cheese is melted and the edges are beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then serve.
WITH almond couscous
ALSO GOOD WITH cumin spiced millet (THIS PAGE) OR fancy saffron-butter basmati rice (THIS PAGE)
This is a most basic tagine recipe, and you should feel free to experiment with it: Try different spice combinations (keep cumin and cinnamon in the mix, but tinker away with the rest—cardamom and ground ginger would be good additions); add some browned onion and garlic and deglaze the skillet with the water; use lamb or goat instead of beef, or replace some of the meat with cooked and drained chickpeas (this page); use different dried fruits.
Load up the cooker.
Stir in the raisins.
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) beef stew meat
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (455 g) butternut squash (about ½ small), peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
1 cup (240 ml) crushed tomatoes
⅓ cup (50 g) raisins
Put the beef in the slow cooker and toss with the paprika, fennel, cumin, cinnamon, 1½ teaspoons salt, and several grindings of pepper. Pile the squash on top of the beef and pour the tomatoes and ½ cup (120 ml) water over the top. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Season with more salt, if needed. Stir in the raisins. When they’ve softened a bit, serve.
1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ cup (25 g) sliced almonds
1½ cups (290 g) instant couscous, preferably whole wheat
¾ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
In a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the almonds and cook, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the couscous and stir for a few seconds to coat with the oil, then add 1¼ cups (300 ml) water and the salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and turn off the heat. Let stand for 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork or spatula, fold in the cilantro, and serve.
WITH roasted Brussels sprouts and shiitakes
ALSO GOOD WITH garlic sautéed dandelion greens (THIS PAGE) OR skillet potatoes (THIS PAGE)
Winter savory is my mom’s pet herb: She’s been encouraging me to experiment with it more for years, and keeps sending dried savory from her huge kitchen garden in Washington State. Its flavor is distinctive and not easily described, like a combination of woody herbs (rosemary, oregano, thyme …) plus grassy mountain mint. If you don’t have any on hand, you can use a sprig of fresh rosemary or a teaspoon of crumbled dried rosemary in its place, but you should definitely seek it out, if you can, for this pot roast. It’s also great with roasted vegetables and in bean-based soups.
Brown the beef and blanch and peel the cipollini.
Serve.
3 pounds (1.4 kg) beef chuck roast or steaks, trimmed and cut into small fist-size chunks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil, or more, if needed
½ cup (120 ml) red wine
1 cup (240 ml) beef stock (this page) or water
8 ounces (225 g) cipollini onions
1 heaping teaspoon crushed dried winter savory
Season the beef with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add half of the beef and cook, turning, until the chunks are nicely browned on two or more sides, about 5 minutes total; transfer to the slow cooker. Brown the remaining beef in the oil remaining in the skillet (add a little oil, if needed); transfer to the cooker. Pour the wine into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour into the cooker, along with the stock.
Bring a pot of water to a boil, add the cipollini, and blanch for 30 seconds, then drain in a colander and cool under running water. Trim off the roots and tops and slip off the peels, then add the cipollini to the cooker, tucking them in around the beef. Sprinkle in the savory. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef and cipollini to a platter. Spoon some of the liquid from the cooker over everything and serve.
You’ll need two baking sheets for this—the vegetables take up a lot of space at first, and shrink as they roast, their flavor becoming more concentrated.
2 pounds (910 g) Brussels sprouts
10 ounces (280 g/about 4 cups) sliced shiitake mushroom caps
6 tablespoons (90 ml) olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Trim the Brussels sprouts bottoms, remove any discolored leaves, and cut lengthwise into quarters if large, halves if small. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C) and put two rimmed baking sheets in the oven to heat.
In a large bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, oil, salt, and several grindings of pepper together well. Spread evenly on the hot baking sheet. Roast until nicely browned, tender, and the edges of the vegetables are crisp, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve hot.
WITH soy-steamed broccoli
ALSO GOOD WITH collard slaw (THIS PAGE) OR sweet chile-garlic sauce (THIS PAGE)
You can use chuck roast instead of the brisket flat here; even a leaner-looking cut will work fine. Be sure to use a good stock, if you can: The broth, full of heady aromatics, is the real star of this dish.
Brown the beef.
Add the scallions and sauté the garlic and ginger. Cook the noodles.
1½ pounds (680 g) beef brisket (flat only), cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
7 cups (1.7 L) good-quality beef stock (this page)
2 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
4 whole cloves
3 green cardamom pods, cracked
2 scallions, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths
Salt or Chinese light soy sauce, if needed
4 cloves garlic, minced
5 coins fresh ginger, minced
Medium-wide rice noodles
Season the beef with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until the pieces are browned on two or three sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker. Pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the hot skillet and scrape up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker, along with the stock. Put the spices in a muslin spice bag or enclose in a double layer of cheesecloth and submerge it in the stock. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Skim any foam or excess fat from the surface of the broth and remove and discard the spices. Add the scallions to the soup, season with salt or soy sauce, and cover.
In a skillet or sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and ginger and stir until golden. Add to the soup.
Cook the noodles until just al dente (about 5 minutes in boiling water). Drain and divide among individual serving bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles and serve.
1 pound (455 g) broccoli
1 clove garlic, minced
2 coins fresh peeled ginger, minced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Good pinch of crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon Chinese light soy sauce, or more to taste
Pinch of sugar
Cut off the broccoli stalks and save them for another use (fried rice is a good one, or cut them into sticks for dipping into hummus or other dips). Cut into small florets, chopping the stems into roughly ½-inch (12-mm) pieces. Put the garlic and ginger in a large skillet or sauté pan and add the oil.
Place the skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until the garlic and ginger are golden, about 2 minutes. Add the broccoli and crushed red pepper, ½ cup (120 ml) water, and the soy sauce, and sprinkle with the sugar. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli is just tender, about 5 minutes. Add more soy sauce, if needed, then serve.
WITH grizzled asparagus
ALSO GOOD WITH herb salad (THIS PAGE) OR pan-seared green beans (THIS PAGE)
Not a light meal, by any means, but so satisfying and comforting. Lots of sliced onions simmer to golden tenderness underneath browned slabs of chuck, which is then easily shredded and stirred together with the onions and a cream sauce made from the cooking liquid. If you don’t have time to make the pastry crisps, you could bake some squares of thawed frozen puff pastry to serve under or over the creamed beef, or just toast some good bread.
Brown the beef and load up the cooker. Make the pastry dough if you have time.
Drain the liquid and make it into a cream sauce. Roll out and bake the pastry crisps.
3½ cups (14 ounces/400 g) sliced onions (4 small or 2 large)
2 pounds (910 g) well-trimmed chuck steaks or roast
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil
½ cup (120 ml) beef stock (this page) or water
2 cups (250 g) plus 1 tablespoon white whole wheat or all-purpose flour
7 tablespoons (100 g) unsalted butter
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Ice water
⅔ cup (165 ml) heavy cream
Put the onions in the slow cooker.
Season the beef all over with salt (about 1½ teaspoons) and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef and cook until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the cooker, setting the beef on top of the onions. Pour the stock into the hot skillet and scrape up any browned bits, then scrape the liquid into the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
In a medium bowl, combine the 2 cups (250 g) flour and a pinch of salt, then cut in 6 tablespoons (85 g) of the butter with a pastry blender (or two knives held together) until the butter is in pieces no larger than ragged peas. Add half of the beaten egg and toss with a spatula to distribute it throughout the flour mixture. Sprinkle in ice water, a couple of tablespoons at a time, tossing and stirring to combine, until the dough holds together and can be shaped into a ball. If doing this in the morning, wrap the ball of dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Unwrap the dough and roll it out between two sheets of plastic to about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Cut the dough into rough squares, strips, triangles, or whatever shapes you’d like and transfer to the baking sheet. Brush with the remaining beaten egg and bake until crisp and golden, 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, holding the lid of the cooker slightly askew and using pot holders, drain as much liquid as possible from the cooker into a saucepan. Return the pot to the cooker and keep covered.
To the liquid in the saucepan, add the cream and bring to a boil over high heat. Mash the flour into the butter with a fork, then whisk the mixture bit by bit into the cream mixture and cook until the liquid thickens slightly. Pour it back into the cooker and use two forks to shred the beef and combine it with the onions and cream sauce. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve with the pastry crisps.
1 bunch asparagus, tough bottoms snapped off
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Put a rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat. Remove the hot pan from the oven and quickly spread the asparagus out on the pan, drizzle with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Shake the pan to roll the asparagus and coat it with the oil, then bake until the tips are crisp and the stalks are wrinkled, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve.
WITH sweet corn curry cakes
ALSO GOOD WITH coconut oil sticky rice (THIS PAGE) OR pandan water (THIS PAGE)
The beef in this brothy, spicy dish—no coconut milk here—will be quite tender and almost falling apart after eight hours, and completely infused with flavor. If you can find tiny green eggplants, use a big handful of those instead of the diced regular eggplant—their bitterness plays well with the slightly sweet broth.
Load up the cooker.
Sauté the vegetables and season the stew.
3 tablespoons red curry paste
1 tablespoon grated palm sugar or brown sugar
1½ pounds (680 g) beef stew meat
3 kaffir lime leaves
2 or more fresh Thai chiles, split but left whole
1 tablespoon vegetable or coconut oil
1 thin Asian eggplant, or ½ small globe eggplant, diced
3 ounces (85 g) green beans, trimmed and cut in half crosswise
Salt
6 sprigs jarred green peppercorns in brine, drained and rinsed (optional)
½ cup (20 g) fresh Thai basil sprigs
2 tablespoons fish sauce, or more to taste
Juice of 1 or more limes
Pour 3 cups (720 ml) water into the slow cooker and stir in the curry paste and palm sugar. Add the beef, lime leaves, and Thai chiles. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the eggplant and green beans and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the eggplant is golden and the vegetables are just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the vegetables to the cooker along with the peppercorn sprigs, if using, the basil and the fish sauce. Add lime juice and more fish sauce to taste. Serve.
These can be either baked on an oiled baking sheet or shallow-fried in a skillet in batches—the results are almost identical, so use whichever method makes the most sense for you.
3 cups (435 g) fresh sweet corn kernels (from 3 to 4 ears)
½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh cilantro with tender stems
2 small scallions, thinly sliced
2 kaffir lime leaves, center ribs removed, thinly sliced
2 large eggs
¾ cup (90 g) rice flour
2 teaspoons Madras (hot) curry powder
1 teaspoon salt
Vegetable or coconut oil
In a large bowl, combine the corn, cilantro, scallions, and lime leaves. Beat the eggs together in a small bowl, then stir them into the vegetables with a fork. Sift in the rice flour, curry powder, and salt and stir until no more dry flour is visible. Cover and refrigerate if doing this in the morning; stir well before proceeding.
If baking, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C) and generously oil a baking sheet. Drop ¼-cup (60-ml) mounds of the corn mixture onto the baking sheet (about 12) and spread them into rounds about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Bake for 10 minutes, then use a thin metal spatula to flip them and bake for 10 more minutes, until nicely browned. Serve hot.
If shallow-frying, in a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, working in batches of three or four, carefully drop ¼-cup (60-ml) mounds of the corn mixture into the skillet and spread them into rounds about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until nicely browned on the bottom, then use a thin metal spatula to flip them and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to paper towels to drain and repeat with the remaining corn mixture, adding a little more oil to the skillet as needed. Serve hot.
WITH basic soft polenta
ALSO GOOD WITH cranberry-orange wild rice (THIS PAGE) OR creamed cauliflower (THIS PAGE)
This might seem like a lot of garlic, but it mellows considerably and sweetens a bit in the slow cooker. The bite of raw garlic in the thyme gremolata topping contrasts well with the unctuous, almost sticky short ribs.
Brown the ribs and sauté the garlic. If you have time, make the gremolata.
Skim the fat and serve.
2 to 3 pounds (910 g to 1.4 kg) meaty beef short ribs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup (120 ml) red wine
½ cup (120 ml) beef stock (this page)
3 sprigs fresh thyme
For the gremolata:
Zest of 1 lemon, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler
¼ cup (13 g) chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves garlic
Salt
Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, working in batches if necessary, cook the ribs (with no oil), turning with tongs, until browned on at least two sides, 5 to 7 minutes total per batch. Using the tongs, transfer to the slow cooker. Drain off all but a tablespoon or so of the fat from the skillet and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden. Pour in the wine and boil until it has reduced by about half, then scrape into the cooker. Add the stock and tuck in the thyme sprigs. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Make the gremolata: Finely mince the lemon zest, along with the parsley, thyme, and garlic, and add a good pinch of salt. Put in a small container, cover, and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
With a large spoon or a turkey baster, skim the clear fat from the surface of the liquid in the cooker and discard. Transfer the short ribs to a platter, spoon some of the cooking liquid over them, and serve with the gremolata for topping.
3 cups (720 ml) vegetable stock (this page) or water
½ teaspoon salt, if needed
1 cup (120 g) polenta or coarse-ground cornmeal
In a heavy 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, bring the stock to a boil (add the salt if using water instead of stock) over high heat. Gradually whisk in the polenta and lower the heat to low. Cook, frequently whisking and stirring into the corners of the pan with a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon, until the individual grains of corn are tender and the polenta is thick, 10 to 25 minutes (different polentas cook at quite different rates). Serve hot.
Pull the meat off the bones and keep it in the fridge for up to several days, ready for the most glorious tacos you’ve ever made: Mince white onion and lots of fresh cilantro together on a cutting board or in a mini food processor. Heat the short rib meat in a skillet over medium-high heat, turning with a thin metal spatula, until crisp and deeply browned, about 2 minutes (it doesn’t take long), adding a pinch or so of ground cumin and cayenne. Warm corn tortillas and fill them with crisp meat and the onion-cilantro mixture, with lime wedges for squeezing.
WITH ginger-butter carrots
ALSO GOOD WITH celery, spinach, and Parmesan salad (THIS PAGE) OR basic soft polenta (THIS PAGE)
Beef shanks are well-marbled cross-section cuts from the leg, usually about an inch or so thick, and in my opinion are one of the most flavor-packed long-cooking cuts you can get. Their texture after braising is similar to that of oxtails and short ribs, but they’re much meatier. Layered with lemon slices and fresh rosemary, these are braised simply in red wine. You could make a full-fledged gremolata for topping (see this page), but I think they need nothing more than a grating of lemon zest and some fresh parsley. Some warmed bread would be welcome on the table for soaking up the braising liquid.
Brown the shanks and layer them in the cooker.
Garnish the shanks with lemon zest and parsley.
3 to 4 pounds (1.4 to 1.8 kg) bone-in beef shanks (4 to 6 pieces 1 inch/2.5 cm thick)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 lemons, one thinly sliced, seeds picked out, the other for zesting
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, broken into a few pieces each
1 cup (240 ml) red wine
¼ cup (13 g) chopped fresh parsley
Season the shanks on both sides with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add half of the shanks, in one layer, and cook until lightly browned on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer them to the slow cooker, tucking them down into the bottom of the pot in one layer, and top with half of the lemon slices and rosemary. Brown the remaining shanks (no need to add more oil to the skillet) and put them atop the first layer, and top with the remaining lemon slices and rosemary. Pour the wine into the hot skillet, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the liquid into the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, gently transfer the shanks to a serving platter; they’ll fall apart a bit, but that’s fine—charming, even. Season the cooking liquid with salt and pepper, if needed, then spoon some of it over the shanks. Grate the zest of the remaining lemon over the top, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.
1 pound (455 g) carrots
3 thin coins fresh peeled ginger
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Rounded ¼ teaspoon salt
Cut the carrots into sticks or coins ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Thinly slice the ginger coins into slivers. If doing this in the morning, put the carrots, ginger, and knob of butter in a container together, cover, and refrigerate.
Put the carrots, ginger, butter, salt, and 1 cup (240 ml) water in a large skillet or sauté pan. Bring to a boil and cook, turning the carrots once or twice with a spoon or tongs, until most of the water has evaporated and the carrots are tender, about 8 minutes; you’ll notice the sound in the skillet change from bubbling to sizzling, and that’s when it’s ready. Serve.
WITH lemongrass rice
ALSO GOOD WITH corn on the cob, basic coconut rice (THIS PAGE), OR gingered Asian pear salad (THIS PAGE)
Rendang is one of my all-time favorite foods, partly for sentimental reasons (on our first not-date, six or so years before we got married, Derek and I had Indonesian food) and partly because it hits all my favorite notes: spicy (chiles fresh and ground), herby (lemongrass, and lots of it), and tart (tamarind).
Puree the sauce and load up the cooker.
If necessary, reduce the sauce on the stovetop.
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 serrano chile, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2-inch (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon hot paprika
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ (13.5-ounce/400-ml) can coconut milk
2 large stalks lemongrass, chopped, tough tops and outer leaves trimmed off and reserved for lemongrass rice (opposite)
1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate, such as Tamicon brand
½ tablespoon jaggery or brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 pounds (910 g) beef stew meat
In a good blender or mini food processor, combine the bell pepper, serrano chile, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, hot paprika, turmeric, coconut milk, chopped lemongrass, tamarind, jaggery, and salt. Puree until very smooth, then scrape into the slow cooker. Add the beef and turn to coat it with the sauce. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
If the sauce is very thin, ladle as much of it as possible from the cooker into a wide saucepan (leaving the beef in the cooker pot). Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat a bit and boil, stirring frequently, until the sauce is reduced and thickened somewhat. Season with more salt, if needed, then return the sauce to the cooker with the beef and serve.
2 cups (360 g) basmati rice
Salt
Lemongrass tops, tied together in a half-knot
Put the rice in a sieve and rinse very well under running water. Dump into a 2-quart (2-L) saucepan and add 2¼ cups (540 ml) water, a good pinch of salt, and the knotted lemongrass. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir once to unstick any grains from the bottom of the pan, then cover and cook over the lowest heat for 14 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed and the rice is tender. Let stand, covered, for 3 minutes, then fluff with a fork or spatula.
WITH fried plantains
ALSO GOOD WITH faux mini pupusas (THIS PAGE) OR warmed corn tortillas (SEE THIS PAGE)
Use long-grained flank steak (cut to fit your skillet and slow cooker, if necessary) and you’ll achieve the most beautiful mess of “old rags” you’ve ever seen, but a thick chuck roast or any other lesser cut of meat will work fine too.
This is a dish in which browning the meat isn’t strictly necessary, but if you have a bit of extra time in the morning it’ll add another level of flavor: Season the flank steak and brown it in a skillet in a little oil for about 5 minutes total, put it in the slow cooker, and deglaze the skillet with the wine, scraping up any browned bits and pouring the liquid over the steak.
Load up the cooker. If you have time, sauté the bell pepper and carrot.
Shred the steak and stir in the vegetables.
1 (2- to 2½-pound/910 g- to 1.2-kg) flank steak
1 teaspoon ground achiote (annatto), or 1 teaspoon sweet paprika plus ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
¼ cup (60 ml) wine (red or white) or water
1 (14.5-ounce/411-g) can whole tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 carrot, cut into sticks ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips ½ inch (12 mm) wide
2 tablespoons drained capers in brine, or ¼ cup (30 g) drained pickled jalapeño chile slices
Put the steak in the slow cooker, sprinkle it all over with the achiote, cumin, cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt, and several grindings of black pepper, and nestle it into the bottom of the pot, folding it over on itself if necessary.
Add the onion and garlic, the wine, tomatoes and their juices, tomato paste, and a good pinch of salt, cover, and cook on low for 8 hours.
Put the oil in a sauté pan and heat over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the carrot and bell pepper and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
Turn the cooker to high. Using tongs, remove the steak from the cooking liquid and put it in a baking dish. Shred the meat into long strands by holding the far end with the tongs and drawing a fork toward you along the meat with the grain to tear it; repeat until it looks like a mass of torn rags. Return it to the slow cooker, along with the sautéed bell pepper and carrot, season with salt to taste, and heat through. Sprinkle the capers over the shredded steak and sauce. Serve.
Starchy semi-ripe plantains, which are available in most supermarket produce sections and look like oversize bananas, make a crisp, comforting accompaniment—my daughter likes swishing them into pooling sauce on her plate.
Vegetable oil
¼ cup (30 g) rice flour
2 large plantains, yellow with some black spots
Salt
Get everything ready for plantain frying: Put a large sauté pan on the stove and add enough oil to cover the bottom by about ⅛ inch (3 mm). Line a cutting board and a plate with paper towels or brown paper and set them near the sauté pan. Find a heavy object (such as a sturdy drinking glass or canning jar) that you can use to flatten the plantain rounds. Put the rice flour in a bowl.
Cut a slit in the peel of each plantain all the way down the length of the fruit, then cut the fruit cross-wise into rounds ¾ inch (2 cm) thick and peel off the peel from each round (this is easier than peeling the whole thing at once, banana-style). Put the rounds in the rice flour and toss to coat. Heat the oil in the sauté pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Put the rounds in the oil and cook until nicely browned, about 3 minutes per side. Using tongs, transfer the plantains to the paper-lined cutting board, then use the heavy object to smash each plantain round to about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Return them to the hot oil briefly to brown again over medium heat, then transfer to the paper-lined plate, sprinkle with salt, and serve.
It’s even better the next day, in tacos. Put it in a saucepan and reheat, adding a little cayenne and more ground cumin, if you’d like. Set out little bowls of toppings: crumbled cotija or feta cheese, sprigs of fresh cilantro, sliced fresh serrano chiles, pickled onions (see this page), lime wedges, shredded cabbage. Warm corn tortillas in a hot, dry heavy skillet, flipping each one twice with your fingers or tongs; wrap them in a clean tea towel or cloth napkin as you warm them.
WITH dark bread, eggplant quark, and pickled beet stems
ALSO GOOD WITH crusty rolls (THIS PAGE) OR spinach-Gruyère toasts (THIS PAGE)
In eight hours, not only will the beef have become meltingly tender but the beets will have turned a beautiful pale blush and given much of their original color to the intensely flavorful broth.
Brown the beef and onion and stash the beet greens in the fridge.
Add the greens and let them cook for 15 minutes or so.
1½ pounds (680 g) beef stew meat, in 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ onion, diced
3 beets about 3½ inches (9 cm) in diameter, with tops
1 large Yukon Gold potato
2 large carrots
4 cups (960 ml) beef stock (this page) or water, or a combination
1 bay leaf
About ¼ cup (13 g) chopped fresh dill
Season the beef with salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef in one layer (or close to it). Cook, turning occasionally, until the pieces are nicely browned on one or two sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker.
To the skillet, add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until just softened, about 3 minutes. Pour in ½ cup (120 ml) water, scraping up any browned bits, then pour the onion and liquid into the cooker.
Cut the tops from the beets and wash the greens well. Cut the stems away from the leaves and save them for pickled beet stems (this page), if you’d like. Cut the leaves crosswise into ½-inch (12-mm) ribbons and put them in the refrigerator. Peel the beets and cut them into quarters, then into ½-inch (12-mm) slices. Cut the potato the same way, and cut the carrots into ¾-inch (2-cm) pieces.
Add the beets, potato, carrots, stock, and bay leaf to the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Turn the cooker to high. Fold the beet greens into the borscht and season the broth with salt and pepper, if needed. Cover and cook until the greens are just tender, 15 to 30 minutes. Serve, with the dill for sprinkling.
If you’re not up for making the eggplant quark, just spread the bread slices with plain quark, soft goat cheese, very thick labneh, or feta pureed in a food processor.
For the pickled beet stems:
Stems from 1 bunch (about 3) beets
1 cup (240 ml) white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon whole allspice berries
For the eggplant quark:
1 large Italian eggplant (about 1 pound 5 ounces/600 g), or 3 or 4 long Asian eggplants
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (120 ml) quark (this page) or plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat) or labneh
Grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
To serve:
About 6 thin slices of dark bread, such as good pumpernickel or whole wheat
Make the pickled beet stems: Put the beet stems in a heatproof nonreactive container (such as a canning jar or glass storage container, or a bowl). In a small saucepan or in a glass measuring cup in a microwave oven, bring the vinegar, honey, salt, and all-spice to a boil and stir to dissolve the salt and honey. Pour the liquid over the beet stems. Let cool for a few minutes, then cover and refrigerate.
Make the eggplant quark: Preheat the broiler to high and set a rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the heat source.
Cut a large eggplant lengthwise into eighths, or small ones in half. Put them cut sides up on a baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, and sprinkle with salt and a few grindings of pepper. Broil until the eggplants are very soft and deeply browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then scrape the flesh onto a cutting board and discard the peel and stem. Finely chop the flesh and scrape it into a bowl. Add the quark and stir it in vigorously with a fork. Add the lemon zest and juice, and season with more salt (about ½ teaspoon) and pepper, if needed.
Spread the bread with the eggplant quark, top with the beet stems (chop them first for easier eating, or leave them whole for dramatic effect), and serve.
WITH creamed cauliflower
ALSO GOOD WITH brown rice and peas (THIS PAGE) OR quick-cooked shredded collards (THIS PAGE)
You can substitute beef short ribs for the oxtails—they’ll be only slightly less sticky-unctuous.
Brown the oxtails and sauté the garlic. If you have time, make the habanero sauce.
Skim the fat and serve.
2 to 3 pounds (910 g to 1.4 kg) oxtails, cut by the butcher into 1- to 2-inch/2.5- to 5-cm sections
2 teaspoons whole allspice, finely ground
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon olive oil
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons rum
⅔ cup (165 ml) beef stock (this page)
5 large sprigs fresh thyme
For the habanero sauce:
2 habanero or Scotch bonnet chiles
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Grated zest and juice of ½ orange
Juice of ½ lime
1 teaspoon brown sugar
Salt
Season the oxtails with the allspice and salt and pepper. In a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, working in batches if necessary, cook the oxtails (with no oil), turning with tongs, until browned on at least two sides, 5 to 7 minutes total per batch. Using the tongs, transfer to the slow cooker. Drain off the fat from the skillet and add the oil. Add the garlic and stir over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden. Pour in the rum and boil until it has reduced almost completely, then scrape into the cooker. Add the stock and tuck in the thyme sprigs. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours.
Make the habanero sauce: Wearing gloves, seed and mince the chiles, then stir in the thyme, orange zest and juice, lime juice, brown sugar, and salt to taste. If doing this in the morning, cover and refrigerate.
With a large spoon or a turkey baster, skim the clear fat from the surface of the liquid in the cooker and discard. Transfer the oxtails to a platter, spoon some of the garlic cooking liquid over them, and serve with the habanero sauce for drizzling on top.
1 head cauliflower, trimmed and coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
⅓ cup (75 ml) heavy cream
4 cloves roasted garlic (this page)
Put the cauliflower in a large saucepan and add enough water to come up about two-thirds of the way (about 3 cups/720 ml). Add the salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer until very tender, about 15 minutes. Add the cream and garlic. With an immersion blender, puree until smooth. Stir in more salt, if needed, then serve.
