Sylvia Casares gazes at a bend in the Rio Grand River on D. J. Lema’s Ranch at Palmito Hill, the southernmost ranch in Texas. Cabrito, on the grill in foreground.
Cabrito is a very popular special-occasion dish along the Texas-Mexico border. It is served at weddings, for example. Nothing says “fiesta!” more than cabrito. Before I added this dish to my menu, I traveled to Monterrey to eat at all the famous cabrito restaurants in that city. The basic preparation is the same: season whole milk-fed baby goats. Then grill the butterflied carcass over hot charcoal. At my restaurants, we cook cabrito over mesquite wood, since that’s what we burn twelve hours a day.
It took several months to develop our technique, using a brine to ensure both tenderness and flavor. Shop around to find a source for milk-fed baby goat that’s no more than 10 pounds. Goats this small are a little harder to find, but make the best cabrito.
I suggest marinating cabrito in an ice chest or cooler. Keep cool with freezer blocks; melting ice will dilute the brine. Have several freezer blocks ready so you can switch them out. Wash them before refreezing.
You will need a large grill and large roasting pan to cook a whole butterflied cabrito. The carcass will measure about 18 inches wide and 2 feet from front to back legs. Or you may ask a butcher to cut the carcass into quarters for easier handling.
Cabrito is often eaten shredded like smoked pork shoulder. It is delicious when served wrapped in fresh corn tortillas, with Charro Beans, sliced avocado, chopped fresh onions, and cilantro.
Makes 8 servings
1 (10-pound) cabrito, whole butterflied carcass or cut into quarters
½ cup corn oil
Enchilada Queen Seasoning Blend, as needed
For serving: Corn Tortillas, Charro Beans, sliced avocados, diced onions, and chopped fresh cilantro
To brine the cabrito, place it in a cooler. Pour the brine over the cabrito. Keep cool with clean, hard frozen freezer blocks, changing them frequently so that the cabrito doesn’t go over 37°F. Brine for 6 hours.
Drain the brine from the cabrito and discard the brine.
Rub the cabrito all over with oil. Season generously on all sides with seasoning blend.
Cover and allow the cabrito to rest for about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, light a wood or hardwood charcoal fire at least 30 minutes before you are ready to cook. Coals are ready when covered with a light coating of gray ash. Or preheat a gas grill to medium-high.
When ready to cook, rub the grill surface lightly with oil.
Place the cabrito on the preheated grill and cook for 8 to 10 minutes on each side.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 325°F.
Remove the cabrito to a roasting pan and cover tightly with foil. Place in the oven, or return the roasting pan to the grill and position it away from direct heat and lower the grill lid. Roast for 2 to 2½ hours, until very tender and the meat is easy to shred.
Set the cabrito aside off the heat for 20 minutes to cool. Pull meat in shreds from bones and keep warm.
Serve shredded cabrito with tortillas, beans, avocados, onions, and cilantro.
Makes 1 cup
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon salt
In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine all the ingredients. Stir and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Cool slightly or to room temperature. Refrigerate any leftovers.
