Epigraph. Viviani Della Robbia 1957, 9. Translation by Frances Di Savino. Quoted with permission from Corso and Jacqueline Aloisi de Larderel.
Epigraph. Dante 1856, 25 (ch. 13). Translation by Frances Di Savino.
1. Oliva 1925, 6.
2. In 1911 the legal names of these three townships were changed to include the suffix in Chianti. The township of Greve (as of 1972) and several other towns in the Chianti Classico appellation also incorporate the words in Chianti as part of their official names. For simplicity, we generally refer to all such townships and towns in this text by their common names without this suffix.
3. Historical variants of the toponym Chianti include Clantius, Klantis, Kiantis, Clantis, Chiantis, Clanti, and Clante. The root Clan raises a possible etymological association with the Etruscan words clan (son) and clanti (adopted son). According to one scholar specializing in Etruscan, clanti means “a natural son,” in contrast with an adopted or juridical one (Nielsen 1999, 67). Given the potential filial relationship (whether adoptive or natural) between Chianti’s small Etruscan settlements and their larger surrounding metropolises (mother cities), perhaps Chianti was referred to as the son or adopted son of larger Etruria.
4. Map by Leonardo Checcucci in Garuglieri 1994, 19.
5. Edlund-Berry 2006, 121. The direct route linking the Etruscan cities of Volterra and Chiusi was the high ridgeway extending through Chianti past what are now Castellina and Radda and the Etruscan settlement on Mount Cetamura in the Chianti Mountains. Garuglieri 1994, 19.
6. Giambullari 1549, 96.
7. Gran-Aymerich with Turfa, 2013, 400.
8. Zifferero 2010, 68.
9. White et al. 2002, 28.
10. Rasmussen 1979, 105.
11. De Grummond et al. 2015. According to De Grummond, as of 2015 more than three thousand grape seeds have been recovered from a second excavated well at the Cetamura site, dating from the later Roman and medieval periods.
12. Zifferero 2010, 71.
13. Sereni 1997, 24.
14. Paolucci 2000, 11.
15. Edlund-Berry 2006, 117.
16. Ibid.
17. Marchetti and Tognaccini 2009, 19.
18. Ammirato 1600, 391.
19. The chain of mountains at the eastern edge of Chianti was known as the Monti del Chianti by the early fourteenth century. Reich 1975–76, 46.
20. L. Passerini 1861, 44.
21. Ammirato 1826, 473.
22. Repetti 1839, 403.
23. Sergio Raveggi, introduction to Raveggi and Parenti 1998, xi.
24. Casabianca 1940, 208–9.
25. Raveggi, introduction to Raveggi and Parenti 1998, xxx.
26. Raveggi and Parenti 1998, 92.
27. English translation from Sereni 1997, 121, of Tanàglia 1953, 31.
28. Pietro Leopoldo d’Asburgo Lorena 1974, 202.
29. Stopani 2010, 55.
30. Nanni 2003, 19.
31. La Roncière 1993, 29–30, 35, 41.
32. Jones 1997, 153, 171.
33. As a class, the vinattieri of Florence appear to have invested more in land than in movable assets such as financial instruments, suggesting that they were motivated to secure a portion of their market supply independently of the mediatori. Based on our analysis of the tax reports filed by the forty-nine self-designated vinattieri in the 1427 Catasto, only ten owned any shares in the public debt of the Florentine Republic. Herlihy et al. 2002.
34. Jones 1997, 163.
35. La Roncière 1993, 18.
36. Goldthwaite 2009, 510.
37. Virgil 2005, 3.
38. Salimbene da Parma 1972, 137.
39. Jones 1997, 173.
40. Brucker 1998, 251.
41. Goldthwaite 2009, 43.
42. Nanni 2003, 21.
43. Goldthwaite 2009, 531.
44. Ibid., 541.
45. Duby 1968, 138.
46. Melis 1984, 57.
47. La Roncière 1993, 46.
48. Melis 1984, 34, 55.
49. S.L. Mazzei 1998, 99.
50. Veseth 1990, 49.
51. Melis 1984, 34, 44.
52. Conti 1966, 45.
53. Melis 1984, 35–38.
54. Lopez 1971, 3.
55. Giannetto 2008, 31–39.
56. Medici 1991, 12.
57. Maria Daniela Nenci, “La distribuzione geografica,” section 3 of the introduction to Muzzi and Nenci 1988, 21–22. The noble family of Castello Monterinaldi in Radda, likely having settled in the city of Florence as citizens, entered into ten mezzadria contracts for their landholdings in Radda in the thirteenth century (more than are found in any other single place in Chianti). These contracts indicate the established presence of individual, named poderi (e.g., Pesa, Monterinaldi, Cerreto, and Campomaggio). Ibid., 45.
58. Emigh 2009, 199.
59. Muzzi 1998, 66. In addition, notwithstanding the general division of produce in halves under this system, there are examples of mezzadria contracts from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries in which landowners reserved for themselves a greater share of the wine (e.g., two-thirds) or a higher percentage of the wine made from more prized vine varieties (e.g., Trebbiano). Pinto 2000, 49–50.
60. Nenci 1998, 109.
61. Unlike in other areas in Tuscany and Italy, however, the small independent farmer (piccolo proprietario coltivatore) never disappeared in Chianti.
62. Bloch 1966, 143, 218.
63. Young 1793, 507.
64. Giannetto 2008, 108.
65. This expression is based on Playing the Farmer, the title of Thibodeau 2011, which analyzes Virgil’s Georgics in the context of ancient Romans’ ambivalent attitudes toward agriculture.
66. Maginnis 2001, 80–81.
67. Petrarch 2005, 251.
68. Goldthwaite 2009, 29.
69. Maginnis 2001, 29.
70. Ibid., 55.
71. Herlihy 1995, 321.
72. Starn and Partridge 1992, 176.
73. Until recently, most commentators had identified the second river as the Arbia (instead of the Elsa), because of the importance of the Arbia River Valley in historic Chianti (and perhaps the potential implications of acknowledging an enlarged geographic delimitation of Chianti, albeit artistic, based on the Elsa serving as Chianti’s natural western boundary). Unlike the Pesa and the Elsa, which flow into Florence’s Arno River, the Arbia runs south from Castellina, in the direction of Siena (opposite to the view in Vasari’s painting). Whether Vasari mistakenly chose the Elsa instead of the Greve or the Ema River, both of which also flow into the Arno, the Elsa does glance by Poggibonsi, a flash point in Florence’s centuries-long conflict with Siena, making its inclusion historically (though tangentially) relevant. Today, the Chianti Classico appellation includes pieces of the townships of Poggibonsi and Barberino Val d’Elsa, in the Elsa River Valley.
74. Vasari 1819, 7.
75. Ibid., 8.
76. Ibid., 7.
77. Gregg 2008, 136.
78. Brolio Castle is depicted with high square walls and a tower at each corner in the road map commissioned by the Medici grand duke of Tuscany in the late sixteenth century. See Pansini 1989, c. 313.
79. Starn and Partridge 1992, 177.
1. Pult Quaglia 1993, 38.
2. Morozzi 2011, 64.
3. G. Targioni Tozzetti 1780, 13.
4. Villifranchi 1773, 2:20. “Giovanni Cosimo Villifranchi” was the pseudonym of Saverio Manetti.
5. Minucci 1731, xxxxvi.
6. Rombai, Pinzani, and Squarzanti 2000, 104.
7. Ames 1691, canto 1, lines 50, 29, 49.
8. Cochrane 1973, 262.
9. Imberciadori 1953, 10.
10. Beckford 1805, 248.
11. Johnson 1989, 207.
12. Paul 1906, 189.
13. Casabianca 1941, 407–8.
14. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 477.
15. Ibid.
16. Great Britain, Public Record Office 1878, 108.
17. Miller 1766, 74; Miller 1768, number 9.
18. Villifranchi 1773, 2:269, 270.
19. Ibid., 27.
20. Ibid., 30–33.
21. Barry 1775, 442.
22. Bandini 1775, 58, 59.
23. L. Cantini 1806.
24. While there is historical evidence that the administrative units of the Tokaj region in Hungary were subject to certain wine-related regulatory controls beginning in the mid-seventeenth century, it was not until 1737 that a royal ordinance officially delimited the villages legally permitted to sell botrytized aszú wine bearing the Tokaj name. Lambert-Gócs 2010, 123.
25. Pietro Leopoldo d’Asburgo Lorena 1974, 201.
26. Mazzei 1980, 132.
27. Ibid., 143.
28. Pietro Leopoldo d’Asburgo Lorena 1974, 200–205.
29. Stuart 1876, 40.
30. Breschi and Malanima 2002, 113; Cianferoni 1979, 15.
31. Bowring 1838, 40.
32. Malenotti 1831, 121.
33. Bowring 1838, 45.
34. Lambruschini 1830, 471.
35. Ciuffoletti 2000a, 127, 130.
36. Biagioli 2000, 332.
37. Ciuffoletti 2000a, 130.
38. Ibid.
39. Paoletti 1774, xvi, xvii.
40. G. Targioni Tozzetti 1791, 102.
41. Ibid., 103.
42. Ibid., 104.
43. Betti 1827, 262–67.
44. Ricci 1829, 215.
45. Ricci 1830, 443–56; Malenotti 1831, 28, 29.
46. Biagioli 2000, 337.
47. C. Ridolfi 1818, 528.
48. L. Ridolfi 1903, 67.
49. Bowring 1838, 43.
50. Emigh 2009, 104.
51. Sonnino 1875, 207.
52. Caruso 1877, 689.
53. Rogari 2007, 8.
54. Chapman 1906, 10.
55. B. Ricasoli 1887a, 515.
56. Olmi 2000, 155.
57. Ciuffoletti 2009, 6.
58. Letter from Bettino Ricasoli to Cesare Studiati dated September 26, 1872, in B. Ricasoli 1961, 14.
59. Letter from Bettino Ricasoli to Cesare Studiati dated July 16, 1868, in ibid., 9.
60. Letter from Bettino Ricasoli to Cesare Studiati dated September 26, 1872, in ibid., 14.
61. Gotti 1894, 67.
62. Biagioli 2000, 349.
63. Ibid., 350; Olmi 2000, 157.
64. Biagioli 2000, 336.
65. Fortuna 1876, 238.
66. Rossati 1900, 505–6.
67. Vizetelly 1874, 122.
68. United States Commissioners 1891, 767.
69. Vizetelly 1874, 122.
70. Chapman 1906, 8.
71. Spadolini 1980, 84–85; Ferretti 1885, 238.
72. Olmi 2000, 159.
73. Ross 1905, 100.
74. T. Guarducci 1909, 224–25, 227–29.
75. Chapman 1906, 8; T. Guarducci 1909, 224.
76. T. Guarducci 1909, 234.
1. “History,” Melini Winery website, accessed January 26, 2016, www.cantinemelini.it/en/#storia.
2. Bartolozzi 2000, 6.
3. Fenzi, Jandelli, and Fossi 1878, 448–52.
4. Rossati 1900b, 1072.
5. Ciuffoletti 2000b, 176.
6. Antinori 2011, 93.
7. Viviani Della Robbia 1957, 19.
8. Ottavi and Marescalchi 1903, 170.
9. Moretti 1999, xiv n. 28.
10. Canessa 1969, 19.
11. Toniolo 2013, 617.
12. T. Guarducci 1909, 198; Branzoli-Zappi and Mazza 1908, 424.
13. Bandinelli et al. 2012, 10.
14. Ottavi 1894, 679.
15. Ibid., 698.
16. T. Guarducci 1909, 84, 85.
17. Rossi-Ferrini 1938, 19.
18. Ciuffoletti 2000b, 194.
19. Rossi-Ferrini 1938, 29.
20. Ibid., 28, 29.
21. Rossati 1900a, 497.
22. Robertson 2008, 5.
23. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1908, 120.
24. Blakeney 2014, 10.
25. World Intellectual Property Organization, Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property, last amended September 28, 1979, www.wipo.int/treaties/en/text.jsp?file_id=288514.
26. Gangjee 2012, 68.
27. Ibid., 98.
28. Mason 1908, 218.
29. Gangjee 2012, 102 n. 112 (French original), 102 (English translation).
30. Garavini 1929, 19, 20.
31. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 300.
32. Ciuffoletti 2000b, 194.
33. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 301.
34. Garavini 1929, 21–22.
35. Ibid., 22.
36. Saltini 2012, 11.
37. Ottavi and Marescalchi 1903, 177.
38. Garavini 1929, 20–21.
39. Falchini 1990, 69.
40. Ciuffoletti 2000b, 194; Garavini 1929, 23.
41. Saltini 2012, 13.
42. Garavini 1929, 24.
43. Ibid., 23.
44. Giorgi 1975, 14.
45. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 17, 19. Notwithstanding this oratory, the following year Oliva published a book titled I vini tipici della Toscana (The typical wines of Tuscany), in which he explained that there were six definitions of Chianti: historic, geographic, geologic, classic, enologic, and commercial (Oliva 1925). Ironically, the Fornaciari Commission’s 1932 report cited this multipart definition as evidence in favor of its conclusion that the name Chianti was not the exclusive property of the Consorzio del Gallo (Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932).
46. For the text of the consortium’s Statuto, see Consorzio per la Difesa del Vino Tipico del Chianti e della Sua Marca di Origine 1924.
47. Gazzetta ufficiale del regno d’Italia, July 31, 1928, 3564.
48. Garavini 1929, 43.
49. Saltini 2012, 23.
50. Mocarelli 2013, 327.
51. Garavini 1929, 25, 26.
52. Ibid, 26.
53. Gaultiero Armando Nunzi, interview by Antonio Saltini, November 1989, transcript prepared by Saltini.
54. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 303.
55. Garavini 1929, 26–27.
56. Ibid., 27.
57. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 306–7.
58. Garavini 1929, 30.
59. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 309; Garavini 1929, 30.
60. Garavini 1929, 31.
61. Ibid.
62. Saltini 2012, 30.
63. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 309.
64. Rossi-Ferrini 1932, 65–66.
65. Giorgi 1957, 80.
66. Mocarelli 2013, 329 n. 16.
67. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, v.
68. Ibid., xi.
69. Ottavi and Marescalchi 1903, 176.
70. Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 4.
71. Based on the data set forth in the Fornaciari Commission report, Chianti Classico produced approximately 16 percent (171,800 hectoliters, or 4,538,476 gallons) of the total volume of wine potentially to be declared as Chianti (1,062,065 hectoliters, or 28,056,789 gallons); the production of the six subzones of External Chianti was 86,497 hectoliters (2,285,009 gallons) in Montalbano, 50,550 (1,335,390) in Rufina, 148,218 (3,915,505) in Colli Fiorentini, 387,000 (10,223,458) in Colli Senesi, 100,000 (2,641,721) in Colli Aretini, and 118,000 (3,117,230) in Colline Pisane. Ibid., 150, 164, 180, 200, 221, 230. However, the commission estimated that the declarations of the subzones of External Chianti overstated the total volume of what would actually be denominated as vino tipico Chianti. Its report projected the total production of External Chianti vino tipico as only about 408,000 hectoliters (10,778,220 gallons). According to this estimate, by the mid-1930s, External Chianti would produce a volume of vino tipico Chianti equal to about 2.5 times that of the Consorzio del Gallo. Ibid, 362–63.
72. Saltini 2012, 40.
73. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 57.
74. Sarrocchi 1942, 80, 81; Giorgi 1957, 76, 80, 86. However, the Consorzio del Putto’s legal counsel Giuseppe Morelli did not agree with Sarrocchi’s reasoning. In a 1943 rebuttal to Sarrocchi’s Per il “Chianti del Chianti,” Morelli (an Italian senator like Sarrocchi) asserted that the 1932 ministerial decree delimiting Chianti was never expressly abrogated and that in any event, by the time Italian Law 1266 was passed, the Consorzio del Putto had “a vested right, if not in the strictly technical sense, [then] in the moral and commercial [one]” to the name Chianti. Morelli 1943, 116–17.
1. Estimate attributed to Arturo Marescalchi, the architect of Italian Law 497 of 1924 on vini tipici. Giorgi 1957, 82 n. i.
2. Cianferoni 1979, 19.
3. Barbacciani and Nanni 2000, 211.
4. Giuliani 1957, 30, 31.
5. Simon 1952, 698.
6. Lichine 1967, 196.
7. Giorgi 1957, 84.
8. Dalmasso 1957.
9. L. Ricasoli 1957.
10. Italian Law 930 of 1963, Article 5(f)(5). This provision was based on Article 2(11) of Italian Law 116 of February 3, 1963, authorizing the passage of the national denominations of origin law (which became Law 930), including the establishment of “transitional rules for the admission of production zones that had already been incorporated pursuant to the Minister of Agriculture’s decree in execution of Law 1161 of July 10, 1930.” “Law 1161” must be a typographical error, the correct citation being Italian Law 1164 of July 10, 1930. The allusion to the Minister of Agriculture’s 1930s decree refers to the July 31, 1932, ministerial decree (technically jointly issued by Minister of Agriculture Giacomo Acerbo and Minister of Corporations Benito Mussolini) memorializing the recommendations of the Fornaciari Commission report, including its enlarged denomination of Chianti.
11. It bears asking why the architects of both Law 116 of February 1963 and Law 930 of July 1963 decided to reference the July 1932 ministerial decree rather than legally reinstate its provisions by expressly stipulating the delimitation of the enlarged Chianti denomination. If, as a matter of law, the 1932 ministerial decree was no longer “in vigore” (in effect) on the promulgation of Law 1266 of 1937, as the Consorzio del Gallo’s then-president Gino Sarrocchi asserted in his 1942 Per il “Chianti del Chianti,” was the juridical foundation for Law 930 and the 1967 Chianti DOC decree valid? And if not, was it the subject of a legal challenge by the Consorzio del Gallo in the lead-up to the passage of Law 930 and the 1967 Chianti DOC decree? Sarrocchi would have expected nothing less.
12. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 166.
13. Ibid., 159.
14. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 1976, 18.
15. Cianferoni 1979, 24.
16. Barbacciani and Nanni 2000, 238 n. 47.
17. Republic of Italy, Law 27, Article 15, Section 3 (1966).
18. Barbacciani and Nanni 2000, 243, table 2A.
19. Cianferoni 1979, 37.
20. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 209.
21. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 1976, 17.
22. Ibid., 18.
23. Bosi 1972, 18.
24. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 1974; “Il gallo nero classico,” in Catalogo ufficiale espositori Greve 12/13/14/15 settembre 1974, 10.
25. Saltini 2012, 104.
26. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 173.
27. Rombai 1996, 52.
28. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 1976, 18; Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 149.
29. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 1984, introduction.
30. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 189.
31. Ibid., 201.
32. Ibid., 237, 267.
33. Ibid., 256.
34. “The Places of Chianti,” Consorzio Vino Chianti, accessed March 1, 2016, www.consorziovinochianti.it/en/territorio/. In 2002, the subzone of Montespertoli was carved out of the Colli Fiorentini subzone, resulting in seven subzones within External Chianti, which Consorzio Vino Chianti represents.
35. Consorzio per la Difesa del Vino Tipico del Chianti e della Sua Marca di Origine 1928.
36. All euro to U.S. dollar conversions in the text are based on a fixed notional exchange rate of 1 euro to $1.20.
37. In 2014 and 2015, the sales volume of Chianti Classico increased to 266,956 and 284,523 hectoliters (7 million and 7.5 million gallons), respectively. “Complemento Statistico 2014,” 4; “Complemento Statistico 2015,” 6; both provided by Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico.
38. Ministero delle Politiche Agricole Alimentari e Forestali 2010.
39. “Chianti chiaroscuro,” January 18, 2007, www.harpers.co.uk/people-and-opinion/harpers-says/chianti-chiaroscuro/302135.article.
40. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 2004, 9.
41. Ministero delle Politiche Agricole Alimentari e Forestali 2013.
Epigraph. Dante 1980, canto 34, lines 133–39. Translation by Allen Mandelbaum. Reproduced with permission from University of California Press Books.
1. Ibid., canto 2, line 140; canto 4, line 149; canto 16, line 62.
2. Maginnis 2001, xix, 14.
3. Dante 1980, canto 10, line 86.
4. Montorselli, Moretti, and Stopani 1984, 138.
5. King 2000, 15.
6. Montorselli, Moretti, and Stopani 1984, 120.
7. Reich 1988.
8. Mastrelli 1988.
9. Marchetti and Tognaccini 2009, 66.
10. Dante 1980, canto 31, line 41.
1. “Regulations: Production Code of ‘Chianti Classico’ Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) Wine,” Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico website, accessed March 12, 2015, www.chianticlassico.com/en/vino/disciplinare/.
2. “Territorio: Caratteristiche,” Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, accessed March 12, 2015, www.chianticlassico.com/territorio/caratteristiche/.
3. C. Cantini et al. 2015, 7.
4. “Territory - Features,” Consorzio Olio DOP Chianti Classico, accessed March 16, 2016, www.oliodopchianticlassico.com/en/il-territorio/caratteristiche/.
5. Villifranchi 1773, 2:28.
6. Chapman 1906, 3.
7. “Territory - Features,” Consorzio Olio DOP Chianti Classico.
8. Ente Mostra Vini—Enoteca Italiana, Siena 2013, 45.
9. C. Cantini et al. 2015, 32, fig. 6.2.
10. Ibid., 33, fig. 6.3.
11. “Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2003,” Barone Ricasoli website, accessed April 28, 2015, www.baronericasoli.com/labels/wines/brolio/2003.
12. C. Cantini et al. 2015, 32.
13. Ibid., 33., fig. 6.3.
14. Ibid.
15. Mancini 2000, 9.
16. Rezoagli 1965, 29.
17. Consorzio per la Difesa del Vino Tipico del Chianti e della Sua Marca di Origine 1924, articolo 4.
18. Ministero delle Politiche Agricole Alimentari e Forestali 2013.
1. Villifranchi 1773, 2:20.
2. Crescenzi 1851, 12.
3. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1885, 11.
4. Villifranchi 1773, 1:90–161.
5. Malenotti 1831, 205–24.
6. “Lo stampatore a chi legge,” in Soderini 1734, iiii. “Sangiogheto” in the 1734 edition.
7. Soderini 1622, 98, 100, 111, quote on 81.
8. Girolamo di ser Bastiano Gatteschi da Firenzuola, “Sopra la agricultura” (September 16, 1552), CL.XIV, 19, Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze (hereafter referred to as Firenzuola BNCF). See also Giannetto 2008, 162–64.
9. Anonymous, preface to A. Firenzuola 1889, xiii.
10. G. da Firenzuola 1871, 2.
11. Ibid., vi.
12. “Proemio in escusazione dell’Autore,” in Girolamo di ser Bastiano Gatteschi da Firenzuola, Sopra l’agricultura, Fondo Ashburnham, n. 538, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana (hereafter referred to as Firenzuola BML), 2.
13. A. Firenzuola 1889, xi–xii.
14. Tagliolini 1981, 297.
15. Repetti 1846, 101.
16. Fiacchi’s lecture at La Colombaria was first published in 1907, and a handwritten copy is appended to the front of the BNCF’s version of Firenzuola’s 1552 manuscript. The quote appears on p. 2 of this copy. See also Fiacchi 1907.
17. Giannetto 2008, 162–63.
18. Davanzati 1853, 487 n. 2.
19. Firenzuola BML, 38. See Tanàglia’s similar description of vermiglio. Tanàglia 1953, 33.
20. Firenzuola BML, 36. In the BML manuscript “Sangioveto” appears as “Sangioueto.”
21. G. da Firenzuola 1871, 37.
22. Trinci 1764, 72–73. He reduced maceration to limit volatility; lauding it to blend.
23. Villifranchi 1773, 1:95.
24. Acerbi 1825, 262–63.
25. Dalmasso 1957, 135. The 1932 report of the Fornaciari Commission (of which Dalmasso was also the viticultural and enological expert) that delimited Chianti cited the 1871 published text of Firenzuola’s treatise (and the manuscript on which it was based in the Biblioteca Comunale di Siena) as the foundation of Davanzati and Soderini’s treatises, concluding, “Come si vede, il plagio fioriva anche nel ’500 !” (As you see, plagiarism flourished even in the 1500s!) Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932, 89 n. 1.
26. Fiacchi lecture, 8, in Firenzuola BNCF.
27. Falchini 1990, 13. Comitato Centrale Ampelografico 1879, 21–22, equates Sanvicetro with Sangiovese piccolo, as does Molon 1906, 1067. Molon’s earliest source is Villifranchi’s Oenologia toscana, later than Falchini by about sixty years.
28. Falchini 1990, 59, 69.
29. Villifranchi 1773, 1:96.
30. Moro quoted in Vergari and Scalacci 2008, 18. Moro’s original text is in the BNCF.
31. Steinberg 2004, 221; George 1990, 86.
32. Perrin 1834, 89.
33. J.F. Vouillamoz et al., 2004. In-depth discussions of this finding and challenges to it may be found in Robinson, Harding, and Vouillamoz 2012, 942–46; and D’Agata 2014, 428–30.
34. Mendola 1868, 13.
35. Gallesio 1839, 143.
36. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1877, 507.
37. Biagioli 2000, 295.
38. Ibid., 472.
39. Ciuffoletti 2009, 124.
40. B. Ricasoli 1961, 14.
41. Pollacci 1876, 28.
42. Soldati 1969, 97.
43. Molon 1906, 1061–62.
44. Bachechi and Di Vecchi Staraz 2015.
45. Falchini 1990, 13–14.
46. Micheli 2008, 274.
47. Dizionario delle scienze naturali nel quale si tratta metodicamente dei differenti esseri della natura . . ., vol. 19 (Florence: V. Batelli, 1848), 480.
48. Nesto 1998, 25.
49. Consorzio Vini Tipi di San Marino 2008.
50. “Rapporto statistico novembre 2015,” 4, provided by Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico.
51. Ziliani 2008.
1. Pinto 2000, 42.
2. Firenzuola BML, 28.
3. Ibid., 9.
4. Falchini 1990, 16.
5. Ibid., 59.
6. Ibid., 39.
7. Ibid., 38.
8. Ibid., 11.
9. Villifranchi 1773, 1:60.
10. Ibid., 47.
11. Ibid., 67.
12. Ibid., 2:84.
13. Denise 1779, 54–55.
14. Tabarrini 1856, 192.
15. Bigliazzi and Bigliazzi 1997, 24, 26.
16. Firenzuola BML, 10.
17. Villifranchi 1773, 1:80.
18. Ciuffoletti 2000a, 131.
19. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1877, 506.
20. Pollacci 1883, 546–47.
21. Chapman 1906, 8.
22. Loreti and Scalabrelli 2007, 394.
23. Barbacciani and Nanni 2000, 206.
24. Loreti and Scalabrelli 2007, 394.
25. Stopani 1990, 104.
26. Redi 1685, 33.
27. Firenzuola BML, 11.
28. Ibid. Sangiovese merited this care: “havendo cura a quel vizzato.” Firenzuola BML, 36.
29. Ibid., 28.
30. Miller 1768, 480.
31. Ibid., 483.
32. Ricci 1827, 40.
33. Ibid., 43.
34. L. Ridolfi 1903, 43.
35. Pietro Leopoldo d’Asburgo Lorena 1974, 202.
36. According to Paolo Socci in an interview on November 1, 2014.
37. Biagioli 2000, 247.
38. Firenzuola BML, 3.
39. Falchini 1990, 11.
40. Ibid., 31.
41. Villifranchi 1773, 1:165.
42. Ibid., 87.
43. Ibid., 2:204.
44. Ibid., 208.
45. Landucci 1842, 136.
46. Pinto 2000 42.
47. Firenzuola BML, 16.
48. Falchini 1990, 23, 24.
49. Villifranchi 1773, 1:67, 62.
50. Ross 1883–84, 407.
51. Firenzuola BML, 11.
52. Biagioli 2000, 338.
53. Ibid., 480.
54. B. Ricasoli 1887b, 494–95.
55. Villifranchi 1773, 2:234–46.
56. Biagioli 2000, 355.
57. Flower 1979, 196.
58. Ciuffoletti 2000a, 144.
59. Torelli 1884–85, 131–32.
60. Biagioli 2000, 355.
61. Ibid., 356. For more information about the timing and circumstances of the arrival of phylloxera in the vicinity of Brolio, see Firidolfi 1890, 29–60.
62. Trentin 1895, 163.
63. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1877, 506.
64. Villifranchi 1773, 1:116.
65. Sestini 1845, 5.
66. Acerbi 1825, 298–99.
67. Biagioli 2000, 351.
68. Pollacci 1876, 28.
69. Trentin 1895, 163.
70. Mondini 1903, 136, 198, 304, 311, 230.
71. Ibid., 236.
72. Ibid., 267.
73. Breviglieri 1957, 103.
74. Istituto di Ricerca sul Territorio e l’Ambiente “Leonardo” 2005, 232–57.
75. Barbacciani and Nanni 2000, 243, table 2A.
76. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 157.
77. Cianferoni 1979, 37, tabella 7.
78. “L’argomento di vino, part V,” Notiziario del Chianti Classico, August 1971, 7.
79. Stopani 1990, 108.
80. Bandinelli, Boselli, and Pisani 2007, 333.
81. Breviglieri 1957, 105.
82. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1877, 515; Rovasenda 1877, 70.
83. The list is available at www.chianticlassico.com/en/vino/disciplinare/.
84. Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio 1885, 13.
85. Racah 1911, 87.
86. Ibid., 94.
87. Soderini 1622, 101.
88. Villifranchi 1773, 1:93, 107.
89. Micheli 2008, 52; O. Targioni Tozzetti 1809, 1:190.
90. Biagioli 2000, 480.
91. D’Agata 2014, 51.
92. Calò, Scienza, and Costacurta 2001, 456.
93. Robinson, Harding, and Vouillamoz 2012, 583.
94. Trinci 1764, 62–63.
95. Vino Chianti Classico Gallo Nero 2006, 1–3.
1. Gallo 1566, 62, 63.
2. Saltini 2014, 447.
3. Firenzuola BML, 40.
4. Capponi 2013, 51.
5. Falchini 1990, 81, 82.
6. Villifranchi 1773, 2:160–66.
7. Firenzuola BNCF, 1.
8. Firenzuola BML, 36.
9. Ibid.
10. Ibid., 36–37.
11. Ibid., 37.
12. Ibid., 10.
13. Ibid., 38.
14. Falchini 1990, 70.
15. Ibid., 70–71.
16. Villifranchi 1773, 2:19.
17. Firenzuola BML, 38. Spelled correctly “melagrane” in Firenzuola BNCF, 54.
18. Villifranchi 1773, 2:19–23.
19. Fabbroni 1819, 61.
20. Villifranchi 1773, 2:219.
21. C. Ridolfi 1818, 512–16.
22. Biagioli 2000, 501.
23. Ibid., 357, 499, 500.
24. Ciuffoletti 2009, 108–9.
25. Ibid., 110.
26. Firenzuola BML, 39.
27. Ibid., 44.
28. Falchini 1990, 71.
29. Ibid., 70.
30. P. Mazzei 1980, 132.
31. Villifranchi 1773, 2:22. He specified “Colore Dolce,” translated in our text as Colorino.
32. Ibid., 23.
33. N. Passerini 1905, 3–4. This book includes a list of authors who discussed the governo and analyzed its positive and negative attributes.
34. Gallesio 1839, 143.
35. Garoglio 1965, 535.
36. Antinori 2011, 100.
37. Ibid., 88.
38. Ibid., 89.
39. Ceccarelli 2009, 26.
40. Antinori 2011, 44.
41. Nesto 1999b, 24.
42. Sergio Manetti, “Dialogo tra sordi,” Veronelli Newsletter, transcript of an interview with Gambelli recorded on July 22, 1993.
43. Macchi 2007, 101, 75.
44. Macchi 2016, 25, 35.
45. Nesto 1999b, 26.
46. Macchi 2016, 41.
47. Macchi 2007, 101.
1. Costantini 2013.
2. Ciuffoletti 2009.
3. Pietro Leopoldo d’Asburgo Lorena 1974, 203.
4. Villifranchi 1773, 2:25.
5. Costantini, Barbetti, and L’Abate 2006, 14, fig. 2; 15, fig. 3.
6. Viviani Della Robbia 2005. Viviani Della Robbia 1957 is the Italian original.
7. Agnoletti 2013, 338.
Epigraph. “A Wood of Love (The Golden Age),” in Medici 1991, stanza 112. Translation by Jon Thiem. Reproduced with permission from The Pennsylvania State University Press.
1. Repetti 1833, 695–96.
2. Bosi 1972, 23.
3. L. Cantini 1806.
4. Pratilli and Zangheri 1994, 779–80.
5. Saltini 2012, 17.
6. Angiolini, Becagli, and Verga 1993.
7. “The State and Condition of Brittish [sic] Trade at This Place,” Leghorn, July 24, 1715, in State Papers (SP) 98/23, Public Record Office (PRO), National Archives of the United Kingdom.
8. Thanks to the curator at Kiplin Hall, the estate in North Yorkshire County, England, that Crowe purchased in 1722, we were able to examine Crowe’s personal account book from Livorno dating from 1710 to 1715. It has 188 double-sided pages and is written in French. Though it includes dozens of references to barrels, barriques, pipes, cases, and even flasks of wine bought and sold by Crowe, there is not one mention of Chianti. What’s more, the generic word vin identifies virtually all of the wine. The only exceptions are a few mentions of “Florence,” “Montalcino,” and “Venise” wines and a handful of entries referring to French wine by place-name, including “Hermitage,” “Champagne,” “Nice,” and “Provence.” The absence of any reference to Chianti in Crowe’s account book (even in his personal commercial dealings involving wine with the British envoy to the Florentine court of Cosimo III) suggests that wine from Chianti (and from other areas of Tuscany) was generally known, at least in the export trade by the early eighteenth century, as “Florence Wine” rather than being identified by its specific place of origin.
9. Two other former high-level officials of the Chianti Classico consortium corroborated that certain members of the board of directors knew about the September 24, 1716 bando as early as the 1960s.
10. Consorzio del Marchio Storico 1999, 146.
11. Ibid., 149.
12. Turrini 2003.
13. Ibid., 18.
14. Ibid., 18–19.
15. Ibid., 19–20.
16. Ibid., 21.
17. Ibid., 18.
18. Cochrane 1973, 308; Pult Quaglia 1993, 40.
19. Negri 1722, 371; Crescimbeni 1714, 213.
20. Magalotti 1968, 17.
21. Paola Bettaccini on behalf of Piero Antinori, memorandum emailed to the authors, September 22, 2015.
22. “Documento 13011 di 58223,” record of Sergio Camerani, “Archivio dei Baroni Ricasoli Presso il Castello di Brolio” (1942), Centro per la Ricerca e lo Sviluppo di Metodologie e Applicazioni per gli Archivi Storici, www.maas.ccr.it/h3/h3.exe/aguida/d13011/fDocumento.
23. Also suggesting that the 1716 bandi were not in the Ricasoli family archives in 1942 is the fact that neither the Fornaciari Commission’s 1932 report, Per la tutela del vino Chianti (Commissione Interministeriale per la Delimitazione del Territorio del Vino Chianti 1932), nor Antonio Casabianca’s 1941 Notizie storiche sui principali luoghi del Chianti contains any reference to them, notwithstanding the fact that the authors of both works did independent archival research at Brolio Castle (the Fornaciari Commission report, for example, cites letters and documents from the Brolio Castle archives from 1715, 1716, and 1717 without mentioning either bando).
24. Journals of the House of Commons, vol. 21 (London: House of Commons, 1803), 148.
25. “Bando sopra il commercio del vino” (July 18, 1716), Legis.I 54/1.29, Regia Consulta 14.561, Archivio di Stato di Firenze.
26. “Bando sopra la dichiarazione de’ confini delle quattro regioni Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano, e Vald’ Arno di Sopra” (September 24, 1716), Legisl.I 54/I.36, Regia Consulta 14.563, Archivio di Stato di Firenze.
27. The Il Chianti map in T. Guarducci 1909 also includes a reference to Castagneto, a minuscule locality cited in the delimitation of the “Vald’ Arno di Sopra” region in the September 24, 1716, bando (raising a legitimate question about whether Guarducci or the map’s draftsman based it on this bando and whether the original text of Guarducci’s manuscript made any mention of the bando). After Guarducci’s “Il Chianti vinicolo” manuscript won the Georgofili Academy’s 1906 competition for a handbook on enological Chianti, he unexpectedly died. As a result, officials of the academy edited and supplemented it prior to its publication in 1909. We made a request to see Guarducci’s competition manuscript to learn whether it mentions the September 1716 bando. The Georgofili’s archivist reported that he was surprised to discover that it is not in the archives. In a 2007 essay titled “Il ‘penultimo’ Chianti” (The “penultimate” Chianti), Piero Guarducci observed that the author of Il Chianti vinicolo, a cousin of his grandfather’s, “mostra di conoscere i limiti indicati dal Bando Granducale del 1716” (demonstrates an awareness of the limits set by the 1716 granducal bando). P. Guarducci 2007, 136. Wine for thought!
28. By hiding Cosimo III’s 1716 bandi, these same merchant-producers and scholars also squandered the opportunity to build a stronger historic foundation for the European Union laws and international treaties regarding the protection of designations of origin and geographical indications that Italy and its fellow EU member countries strenuously invoke to defend their wine and agricultural products in the twenty-first century. Because these bandi were kept out of sight, legal historians have overlooked to what extent Cosimo’s July 18 bando not only anticipated the French appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) law of 1935 but also may have been the conceptual blueprint for Article 1 of the French law of 1824 that imposed criminal penalties on “every merchant, factor, or retailer” who knowingly trafficked in goods marked with a false place of origin. This law was in turn the foundation of the French law of 1857 that underpinned the legal concept of “indication of source” in the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property in 1883. Thus the Medicis deserve recognition for not only introducing the principles of Italian gastronomy to France but also helping to lay the groundwork for French wine law.
29. Since 1873, the David has been housed in Florence’s Accademia di Belle Arti museum, with a replica in its former place at the entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio.
1. The Consorzio Vino Chianti describes its territory as “The places of Chianti” on its website (www.consorziovinochianti.it/en/territorio) and has a link of the same name on its home page.
2. Commission Regulation (EC) no. 607/2009, July 14, 2009, OJ L 193/60, Official Journal of the European Union, also available at http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?qid=1456071325372&uri=CELEX:32009R0607.
3. “Atti di programmazione: Deliberazione 27 marzo 2015, n. 37,” Bollettino ufficiale della regione Toscana 46, no. 28, pt. 1 (May 20, 2015): 35–36.
4. European Landscape Convention, adopted by the Committee of Ministers of the Council of Europe on July 19, 2000, and opened for signature in Florence on October 20, 2000, Council of Europe Treaty Series no. 176, also available at www.coe.int/en/web/landscape/about-the-convention.
5. “Piano di indirizzo territoriale con valenza di piano paesaggistico,” scheda ambito di paesaggio 10, Chianti (Regione Toscana), also available at www.regione.toscana.it/-/piano-di-indirizzo-territoriale-con-valenza-di-piano-paesaggistico.
6. Pilsen Urquell v. Industrie Poretti SpA, ETMR 168, 172 (Corte Suprema di Cassazione 1996), quoted in translation in Gangjee 2012, 209.
7. Ibid., 210.
8. Dante 1982, canto 27, lines 130–35. Translated by Allen Mandelbaum. Reproduced with permission from University of California Press Books.