Sweet Pastry Dough • Banana Cream Tart
Belgian Sugar Pie • Black Currant Silk Tart
Breakfast Bars • Caramelized Banana Puffs
Cheese Bars • Cherry Bundles • Cinnamon-Custard Tart • Cinnamon-Milk Tart • Cranberry Crumble Tart • Florentine Wedges • Gâteau Basque • Hazelnut-Banana Tart
Kinder Pies • Lemon Cups • Normandy Apple Tart • Nut Slices • Pear Puffs
PICNIC TARTS • Pistachio-Currant Picnic Tarts
Brown Butter and Fruit Picnic Tarts
Nut Picnic Tarts • Lemon Picnic Tarts
I fell in love with tarts when I was fifteen years old, on my first trip to France. Proudly displayed in the window of every Parisian bakery, those round, low showpiece pies were unlike anything I’d ever seen before. Compared to the swollen, two-crusted fruit or mile-high cream pies typical in America, these tarts seemed quintessentially French—slim and sleek and civilized, with just enough attitude. It seemed a crime to eat them—covered as they were with perfectly symmetrical rows of shiny glazed fruit, custard-filled with random scorched edges, or bejeweled with a necklace of sliced almonds and powdered sugar. Once I got over thinking of tarts as works of art and realized how good they tasted, I was a convert for life.
As I baked my way through the classical school of tart making, duplicating those French standards like Tarte aux Pommes, Tarte aux Noix, and Tarte aux Cerises, I figured out the secret to a great-tasting tart: The ingredients must be fresh and the flavors simple and well-balanced, but equally important is the correct ratio of crust to filling, and the resulting contrast of textures. With those principles in mind, I was free to experiment with a variety of shapes and nontraditional crusts. A yeasty croissant dough paired with a soft, eggy custard or pears baked on top of a flaky, buttery disc of puff pastry makes perfect sense to me. Though the tarts at La Brea Bakery aren’t conventional, they’re still rooted in that French tradition.
When you want to achieve that classic, low form, you have to use a French tart mold. There are two types. Most people find the fluted tart pan with a removable bottom easier to line and easy to transfer. But I prefer the finished look of a tart baked in a smooth-sided, bottomless flan ring. If you use this type of mold, keep in mind you’ll need to slide a flat piece of cardboard underneath the tart to move it from baking sheet to platter. Or try baking the tart on the reverse side of a baking sheet, making it easy to slide off. Both types of molds are available in a multitude of sizes (see Sources). If you change the size of the mold I call for, don’t forget to adjust the amount of filling and the baking time as well.
For a thin and even good-looking crust, the dough must be handled as little as possible and rolled out properly. Rolling out the dough for a tart is not a difficult procedure, but a few extra tips never hurt. Most important is the temperature of the room and the temperature of the dough. The oven should be turned off, and when possible, a cool room is best. A large, smooth countertop, marble slab, or Formica board are all good surfaces for rolling. If the weather is extremely warm and your rolling surface isn’t mobile or is too large to chill in the refrigerator, cool the surface down by placing a baking sheet covered in ice, frozen food packages, or portable frozen ice packs over the surface for 10 minutes before rolling your dough. The dough should be cold but pliable when rolling it out. Take the pastry directly from the refrigerator, cut it into a few pieces and pound it with a rolling pin to soften. Use your fingertips (not your palms) to work it quickly into a smooth, pliable ball. Before you roll, brush your ring or mold with melted butter. Have a small bowl of flour nearby. Place the dough in the center of your floured work surface. Pound the ball of dough with a rolling pin to flatten it into a disc about 1 inch thick. Begin rolling it from the center of the disc, turning it slightly clockwise after each stroke to make an even circle, keeping the dough and the work surface lightly floured as necessary. If the dough cracks, it’s too cold; warm it briefly with the palm of your hand. If it is too soft, it will stick to the surface. If that’s the case, you may need to return it to the refrigerator. Roll the dough at least 2 inches larger in diameter than the ring or pan to be lined, to a thickness of ⅛ to ¼ inch depending on the dough and recipe. Roll in short strokes, stopping short of the edges of the dough so they don’t get too thin. Lift and turn the circle frequently to keep it from sticking to the work surface.
To line the mold, place it on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Gently fold the circle of dough into quarters, placing the counterpoint in the center of the mold, and carefully unfold. Alternately, you may roll the dough completely around the rolling pin to pick it up, and set it over the mold to unroll. If the dough is too soft to move, then chill it on a baking sheet until firm enough to handle. If it gets too firm and is rigid, let it soften a few minutes. To fit the dough into the pan, work your way around the edges, gently lifting up the dough and easing it down so that it fits into the corners and sides of the mold. It’s important that you don’t stretch the dough to fit, or it will shrink later during baking. Dip the knuckle of your index finger in flour and run it around the inside of the pan, gently pressing the dough into the corners with the flat part of your knuckle. Using the three middle fingers of one hand, press the dough into the sides of the pan, pinching slightly if necessary to make sure that the dough comes up slightly above the top of the rim and is an even thickness all around. The side of the pastry must be at a sharp right angle to the bottom at this point or you’ll lose the height of the shell, and corners will be too thick, when it shrinks during baking. Trim the pastry even with the edge of the mold and chill or freeze until firm, 30 minutes to an hour. Allowing the dough to rest will prevent shrinking while it bakes.
Because the filling of some tarts bakes more quickly than the crust, you may need to “blind-bake” the shell without the filling to give the crust a head start. To blind-bake, you must weigh down the dough so it doesn’t rise as it cooks. Line your mold and chill the tart shell as above. Brush the entire surface of the shell lightly with melted butter. Line the bottom and sides with coffee filters or parchment paper. (I like the large, flat-bottomed coffee filters from automatic drip coffeemakers; they’re pliable, reusable, and soft. If the filters aren’t large enough to line the entire shell, arrange three or four of them in an overlapping pattern to completely cover the bottom and drape over the sides.) Fill the lining, up to the top of the rim of your mold, with dried beans or metal pie weights (see Sources), both of which can be saved and reused. Make sure the beans or weights are pressed tightly into the corners of the dough. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 25 minutes, until the top of the crust is golden brown. Cool completely and remove beans or weights with a large spoon and carefully peel off paper lining. If the bottom of the pastry is not uniformly browned, return it unlined to the oven for a few minutes until fully cooked. Before you fill the shell, check for cracks in the dough. If there are some, smear a small amount of raw dough over the cracks to repair them.
If you too have become a tart convert, do as we do at the bakery. Keep your doughs in the freezer and your fillings in the refrigerator and you’ll be ready to bake a Cherry Bundle or a Florentine Wedge whenever the mood strikes.
THIS IS THE FIRST SWEET CRUSTY PASTRY I LEARNED TO MAKE, AND TO THIS day, I still think it’s the best. Leftover dough can be rolled, cut out, and baked into sugar cookies.
2¾ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes and frozen
2 extra-large egg yolks
¼ cup heavy cream
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour and sugar and pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter, and pulse on and off or mix on low until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and cream. Add to the butter mixture and pulse a few times or mix on low until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, using a metal scraper or spatula, scrape and gather it together. Divide the dough in half and gently knead each half to gather into a ball. Flatten into discs and wrap in plastic to chill at least 2 hours, until firm. Freeze for longer storage.
Yield: 1½ pounds dough: enough for two 10- to 12-inch tarts or ten 4¾-inch individual tarts
EVERYONE LOVES THIS BANANA CREAM TART. AN OFFSHOOT OF THAT CLASSIC American pie, ours is made in a low tart shell with pastry cream and crème fraîche. To customize your Banana Cream Tart, sprinkle it with shaved chocolate, coconut, or toasted nuts.
Special Item: 10-INCH FLAN RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
½ recipe (¾ pound) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
1 recipe Pastry Cream (see Kinder Pies)
3 ripe, firm bananas (about 1½ pounds), sliced into ¼-inch round slices
2 cups heavy cream
¾ cup crème fraîche
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring, chill, and blind-bake according to these directions.
Spread about 2 tablespoons of Pastry Cream on the bottom of the tart shell. Layer with 1¼ cups of the sliced bananas to cover the entire bottom.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream and crème fraîche on low until the cream thickens enough not to spatter. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to whip until the cream holds soft peaks.
In a medium bowl, combine the remaining Pastry Cream with 1 cup of the whipped cream and return the remaining 3 cups of whipped cream to the refrigerator, covered, until ready to serve. Fold the rest of the bananas into the Pastry Cream mixture and fill the tart shell, spreading evenly. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
Before serving, check the consistency of the whipped cream. If necessary, whisk a few times to stiffen slightly. Spoon the whipped cream onto the top of the pie in a dome, spreading it with the back of a large spoon to form uneven peaks.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
SIMPLICITY IS THE SECRET IN THIS DELICIOUS TART. EGGS, CREAM, AND SUGAR are whisked together and poured into a croissant dough shell and baked to perfection. Creamy and buttery with a crispy crust, it tastes like the sweetest, richest French toast you’ve ever had.
Special Item: ONE 10-INCH FLAN RING, OR SPRINGFORM PAN
About ⅓ recipe (1 pound) Croissant dough, chilled for at least 3 hours
FOR THE FILLING:
1 extra-large egg
¾ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface as necessary. Center the flan ring on the circle of dough and gently press down to score a circle into the dough. Place the flan ring on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
To form a scalloped edge, pick up a small ½-inch section of the dough and fold the dough over to meet the marked line and firmly press the dough to seal. Place your thumb on the folded edge pointing inward toward the center. Using your other hand, pick up a small section of dough, fold it over and press down to seal. Move your thumb to the other side of the newly formed pleat. Keeping your thumb in place, pick up another piece of dough and fold it over, pressing down to seal. Repeat around the entire edge, rotating the circle of dough as you work your way around to form diagonal pleats.
Lift the dough into the ring and gently press it outward to reach the edge of the mold. Using your fingertips, dimple the dough about 10 times. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 1 to 1½ hours.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk together the whole egg, cream, and vanilla extract.
Brush the edge of dough with egg white. Sprinkle over ½ cup of the sugar over the entire tart shell. Dimple the bottom a few more times and pour in the filling. Dot the top with butter and sprinkle the remaining sugar around the edge.
Bake for about 45 minutes, until the custard is set and the crust is lightly browned.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
PERFORATED WEDGES OF PASTRY ARRANGED ON TOP ADD A FRESH AND MODern touch to this classic tart. Vivid colorful fruit peeking through the holes gives a sneak preview of what’s to come. I prefer cassis (black currants) but if you can’t find it, try raspberries, huckleberries, blackberries, or passion fruit. Fresh fruit is always better, but if it’s out of season, frozen fruit purees are available at Latin markets, upscale markets, and restaurant supply stores (see Sources) all year round.
Special Items: 10-INCH FLAN RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
THREE GRADUATED ROUND CUTTERS, ½ INCH TO 1 INCH
1 recipe (1½ pounds) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
FOR THE FILLING:
1½ quarts fresh fruit or ½ pound frozen fruit puree
2 extra-large eggs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
½ cup granulated sugar
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Divide the dough in half and return the other half to the refrigerator.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring, chill, and blind-bake according to these directions.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the remaining dough out to a circle, ⅛ inch thick. Cut out a 9-inch circle and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Chill until firm, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cut the circle into quarters and cut the quarters in half to make 8 wedges. Separate the slices and using the small cutters, cut out 3 graduated circles in each wedge. Bake for 20 minutes until golden brown. Set aside to use as the top crust.
To prepare the filling using fresh fruit: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, pulse until the fruit is pureed. Place the fruit in a fine-mesh sieve and press the fruit through, straining out the seeds and skin. Measure the puree. You should have 1½ cups.
To prepare the filling using frozen fruit puree: Thaw the fruit puree and strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, sugar, and fruit puree to combine. Pour into the tart shell and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until set. When done, the filling should no longer quiver when you gently shake the baking sheet, and the surface should be a deep purple.
Allow to cool and arrange the perforated wedges on top of the custard, leaving room to slice in between each.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
THIS MAY BE THE SINGLE MOST ADDICTIVE PASTRY WE MAKE. FRUITY JAM sandwiched between a tender crust and streusel topping—crunchy, buttery, and salty. The edges that burn and caramelize are what I nibble at early in the morning as I pass by the baker’s rack.
FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:
2½ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
1 extra-large egg, beaten
FOR THE DOUGH:
4 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
½ cup cornstarch
1 teaspoon kosher salt
4 sticks (1 pound) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
FOR THE FILLING:
2 cups raspberry jam
To prepare the topping: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder, and pulse, or mix on low, to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off or mix on low until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the egg, tossing with your hands to incorporate. It should be crumbly and uneven. Chill until ready to use.
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugars, cornstarch, and salt. Add the butter and pulse on and off, or mix on low, until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gently knead to gather into a ball. Flatten into a disc and wrap in plastic to chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 10 × 16-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface as needed. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until lightly browned, about 20 to 25 minutes. Allow to cool.
Spread the jam over the surface of the crust and crumble a heavy layer of topping over the jam.
Bake for about 40 minutes, until the topping is nicely browned.
When cool, cut into squares.
Yield: 16 pieces
THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND THIS RECIPE IN YOUR CLASSIC FRENCH COOKBOOKS, I think you’ll agree that bananas and puff pastry is a match made in heaven. If you have your puff pastry ready, they’re unbelievably quick to make. Cut out a few circles of pastry, slice the bananas, and sprinkle on some sugar—that’s all there is to it. If you don’t have the 4-inch cake pans, substitute any individual-size pan, making sure you cut the puff pastry 1 inch larger.
Special Items: 5-INCH ROUND CUTTER
EIGHT 4-INCH-DIAMETER, ¾-INCH-HIGH MINI TEFLON CAKE PANS (SEE SOURCES) OR DISPOSABLE ALUMINUM PIE PANS (1-CUP CAPACITY), LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
½ recipe (2 pounds) Puff Pastry, chilled
¼ cup water
1 cup sugar plus extra for sprinkling
8 (3½ pounds) ripe, firm bananas, sliced into ¼-inch round slices
Cut the Puff Pastry in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the Puff Pastry ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the pastry as necessary. Cut out four 5-inch circles. Place them on a baking sheet and freeze for 30 minutes until firm. Repeat with the remaining dough.
In a heavy-duty small, deep saucepan, stir together the water and sugar. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a boil without stirring. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush down the sides of the pan to remove any undissolved sugar granules. Continue cooking without stirring. When the sugar begins to color, after 5 to 7 minutes, begin to tilt and swirl the pan to cook evenly. When it reaches an amber color, remove from the heat and immediately pour a tablespoon or so of the hot caramel mixture into each of the cake pans, swirling the pan with tongs or a heat pad to evenly coat the bottom. Allow to cool.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Place 3 banana slices, slightly overlapping, in the center of each pan and, working your way outward, arrange the banana slices in concentric circles (this is the layer you will see when serving, so be sure it’s neatly arranged). Continue layering the slices, using one whole banana for each pan. The bananas should reach about ¼ inch above the rim of the pan.
Place a circle of Puff Pastry over the top of each pan. Transfer to the baking sheets and invert the tarts by placing your hand on the pastry and quickly flipping it over, gently removing your hand after they’ve been inverted, leaving the pan on top.
Sprinkle the edges of each pastry with about ½ teaspoon granulated sugar.
Bake for about 35 minutes, until the pastry starts to color and rise and the sugar begins to melt. Remove the baking sheet from the oven. Using tongs or 2 forks, remove the pans, leaving the tarts on the baking sheet. Return them to the oven to bake for another 15 minutes, until the pastry is nicely browned.
Yield: 8 tarts
IF THERE’S ONE RULE IN COOKING, IT IS NEVER INTERFERE TOO MUCH WITH the classics. Made with a crispy graham cracker crust and a smooth cream cheese filling, my Cheese Bars are still based on that classic cheesecake recipe, but changed just enough to call them my own.
Rectangular and square molds are available at some kitchen stores. If you have no luck finding them, bake the bars in the traditional round springform pan and call them cheese slices.
Special Item: RECTANGULAR FLAN RING (SEE SOURCES), 12 × 4 INCHES, WITH 2-INCH SIDES, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
About ⅓ recipe Graham Cracker dough, chilled
FOR THE FILLING:
2¼ cups (13½ ounces) cream cheese
½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup crème fraîche
2 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons poppy seeds
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the crust: On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a rectangle slightly larger than 12 × 4 inches, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and trim the edges of the dough by placing the rectangular mold over it, pressing down to cut through. If the dough shrinks away from the mold, use your fingers to press it out, eliminating any gaps. Remove the trimmings on the outside of the mold and set aside to use for patching the crust. Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, until browned and slightly firm to the touch. Allow to cool. If there are any gaps where the dough shrank while baking, use some of the leftover dough to patch it, so that the filling doesn’t leak through.
Meanwhile, to prepare the filling: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, sugar, and salt, and mix on medium for about 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth and creamy. Add the crème fraîche and mix another minute to combine.
In a medium bowl whisk together the eggs, lemon juice, and vanilla extract. Slowly add the liquid to the cheese mixture, mixing on medium, until completely incorporated.
Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and stir in the poppy seeds. Pour into the mold and spread evenly. The filling should fill the mold three-quarters full.
Bake for 30 minutes, until the sides are set and the center of the cheesecake moves ever so slightly.
Cool for 10 minutes and place in the refrigerator for at least 1½ to 2 hours until set and cold. Slice into 1-inch bars.
Yield: 12 to 14 slices
DEFINITELY NOT YOUR TRADITIONAL TART, THESE LITTLE PURSES OF FRUIT still have all the necessary elements to be a tart: a crust and a filling. The crust is made of a rich cream cheese dough, perfectly complementing the tangy cherry compote inside. If cherries are out of season, substitute the cranberry compote from Cranberry Crumble Tart.
Special Items: 5-INCH ROUND CUTTER
TWELVE 10-INCH PIECES OF KITCHEN STRING OR TWINE
1 recipe cream cheese dough with the turns and folds (see Rugelach) or 1½ pounds Puff Pastry Dough, chilled
FOR THE CHERRY COMPOTE:
1½ cups granulated sugar
½ cup water
1 vanilla bean
1 cinnamon stick
2¼ pounds fresh red sweet cherries, stemmed and pitted to equal 6 cups
1½ cups (12 ounces) dried sour cherries
¼ cup brandy
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
FOR THE TOPPING:
1 to 2 extra-large egg whites, lightly beaten
¼ cup granulated sugar
Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to ⅛-inch thickness, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cut out six 5-inch circles. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour. Repeat with the remaining dough.
To prepare the cherry compote: In a large, heavy-duty, deep saucepan, stir together the sugar and water. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the sugar mixture. Add the cinnamon stick. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a boil without stirring. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush down the sides of the pan to remove any undissolved sugar granules. When the sugar begins to color, after 3 to 4 minutes, tilt and swirl the pan to cook evenly. When the mixture reaches an even medium caramel color, remove from the heat.
Add the fresh cherries. The mixture will spatter and the sugar may seize and harden. Add the dried sour cherries and brandy, and return to the heat to cook about 5 more minutes, until the cherries are tender and the hardened sugar has dissolved.
Place a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl, and pour in the fruit, straining the liquid into the bowl. Pour the liquid back into the saucepan and transfer the fruit to the bowl. Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil, remove from the heat, and whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, over medium-high heat, until the juice is shiny, bubbly, and slightly thickened. Add the balsamic vinegar and combine with the fruit. Allow the filling to cool and remove the vanilla bean and the cinnamon stick.
On a lightly floured surface, roll to enlarge each circle to a 7- to 7½-inch diameter, keeping it as round as possible, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary.
Working with one circle at a time, place about ⅓ cup of the compote in the center. Bring the two opposite sides of the circle to meet in the middle. Holding the two halves together with the thumb and index finger of one hand, pleat the remaining edges of dough, gathering the edges above the fruit to form the top of the bundle. Holding it together with one hand, wrap a piece of the twine around the center and tie it tightly. It will look like a small drawstring purse. Place the bundles on 1 or 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Freeze until frozen, at least 1 hour.
Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Brush the bundles with the egg white and sprinkle with sugar.
Bake for about 35 to 40 minutes, until nicely browned and the filling begins to bubble out, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking. Allow to cool and cut off the string.
Yield: 12 bundles
NO TART CHAPTER WOULD BE COMPLETE WITHOUT A CUSTARD TART. OURS IS more like a flan, not too rich and sprinkled with cinnamon.
Special Item: 10-INCH FLAN RING
½ recipe (¾ pound) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
1½ cups heavy cream
1 cinnamon stick
1 vanilla bean
½ tablespoon finely chopped orange zest (about 1 orange)
2 extra-large eggs
½ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring, chill, and blind-bake according to these directions.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the cream and cinnamon stick. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the cream. Add the orange zest and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the cream to steep and the flavors to infuse for 30 minutes to an hour.
Strain the cream mixture through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the zest, and return the cream to the pot.
In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar.
Bring the cream back to a boil, then slowly pour it over the egg mixture, whisking continuously as you pour.
Pour the custard into the tart shell, dot with butter, and sprinkle with cinnamon.
Bake for about 30 minutes until just set.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
DON’T LET THE NAME OR INGREDIENTS DECEIVE YOU; THIS TART TASTES MUCH better than it sounds. I first heard about milk tart through Beatrice, a pastry chef I worked with many years ago at Spago. She reminisced about this South African dessert, the way we do when we’re homesick and hungry for that all-American apple pie. Made in every household, it’s a dessert that South Africans take pride in.
During a recent visit to South Africa, I tasted many milk tarts. After several mediocre versions of this regional specialty, I finally hit the jackpot on a game reserve in Shawamari. Pure white and covered in a blanket of cinnamon, this Milk Tart was plain and creamy, delicious and comforting like a good rice pudding.
Special Items: 10-INCH FLAN RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
3-INCH-DIAMETER CARDBOARD GUIDE OR PAPER PLATE
FOR THE DOUGH:
2½ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
1¼ cups powdered sugar
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 extra-large egg
1 extra-large egg yolk
FOR THE FILLING:
4 cups whole milk
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch
FOR DECORATING:
¼ cup ground cinnamon
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour and sugar and pulse, or mix on low, to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off or mix on low, until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal.
In a small bowl, whisk together the whole egg and egg yolk, and pour into the flour mixture. Pulse or mix on low until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, use a metal scraper or spatula to scrape and gather it together. Divide the dough in half and gently knead each half and gather into a ball. Flatten into 2 discs and wrap in plastic. Chill one piece until firm, at least 2 hours, and freeze the other for later use.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 10-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring, chill, and blind-bake according to these directions.
To prepare the filling: In a deep stainless-steel saucepan over low heat, warm 3½ cups of the milk with the granulated sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the milk. Turn the heat to medium and bring to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the remaining milk and the cornstarch.
When the milk comes to a boil, pour it into the cornstarch mixture and whisk together. Return it to the saucepan and bring it back to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, so it doesn’t color. Continue cooking, allowing it to bubble and thicken, about 2 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and pour the filling into the baked tart shell. Chill until set and cold, about 45 minutes.
Place the 3-inch guide in the center of the tart and sift an even layer of cinnamon over the top of the tart, to make an outer circle of cinnamon.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
THIS FALL DESSERT HAS ALL THE HOMINESS OF A COBBLER COMBINED WITH the refined sophistication of a tart.
Special Item: 10-INCH FLAN RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
½ recipe (¾ pound) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
FOR THE COMPOTE:
½ cup water
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
1 cinnamon stick
1 cup fresh cranberries (or frozen, if fresh aren’t available)
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (4 ounces) dried cranberries
¾ cup orange juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:
¾ cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup granulated sugar
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
½ extra-large egg, lightly beaten, 2 tablespoons
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring and chill according to these directions.
To prepare the compote: In a large, heavy-duty, deep saucepan, stir together the water and sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the sugar mixture. Add the cinnamon stick. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a boil without stirring. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush down the sides of the pan to remove any undissolved sugar granules. When the sugar begins to color, after 3 to 4 minutes, begin to tilt and swirl the pan to cook evenly. When the mixture reaches an even medium caramel color, remove from the heat.
Add the fresh cranberries, dried cranberries, and orange juice. The mixture will spatter and the sugar may seize and harden. Return to the heat and cook 5 to 8 more minutes, until the cranberries swell and begin to pop and the hardened sugar has dissolved.
Place a fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl and pour in the fruit, straining the liquid into the bowl. You should have about 1¾ cups liquid. Pour the liquid back into the saucepan and transfer the fruit to the mixing bowl. Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil, remove from the heat, and whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the juice is shiny, bubbly, and slightly thickened. Combine with the fruit. Allow the filling to cool and remove the vanilla bean and the cinnamon stick. You’ll have about 3 cups of filling.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the topping: In a food processor fitted with the steel blade or the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and cinnamon and process or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off, or mix on low, until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal. Add the measured beaten egg and pulse or mix on low, just to combine. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Remove the tart shell from the refrigerator and pour in the compote. Crumble the topping evenly over the top.
Bake for 45 minutes, until the compote is bubbling and the topping is nicely browned.
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
“INSPIRED BY THOSE CRUNCHY CANDYLIKE FLORENTINE COOKIES, I ADDED A CRUST AND MADE A TART.”
INSPIRED BY THOSE CRUNCHY CANDYLIKE FLORENTINE COOKIES, I ADDED A crust and made a tart. Tasty and eye-catching, the honey-caramel layer is studded with green pistachios, red cranberries, and candied lemon zest. Use your favorite tiny cookie cutters to create a decorative border on the tart. For the traditionalist, cut the dough into small circles and you’ll have your Florentine cookie.
Special Items: 2¾-INCH ROUND CUTTER (FOR COOKIES)
1-INCH ROUND OR SHAPED CUTTER (FOR DECORATIVE BORDER ON TARTS)
CANDY THERMOMETER (CHECK YOUR THERMOMETER’S ACCURACY IN BOILING WATER; IT SHOULD READ 212 DEGREES)
1 recipe (1½ pounds) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
FOR THE FILLING (ENOUGH FOR 2 TARTS OR 24 COOKIES):
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (2 ounces) unblanched sliced almonds
⅓ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons mild-flavored honey, such as clover
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons Candied Lemon Zest, syrup drained off
¼ cup (1 ounce) raw shelled unsalted pistachios, coarsely chopped
¼ cup (1 ounce) dried cranberries, coarsely chopped
Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
For the tarts: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cut out a 10-inch circle, leaving the scraps intact. Transfer the circle to a parchment-lined baking sheet and prick the surface of the circle about 10 times with the tines of a fork. Using the 1-inch cutter, cut out small circles or shapes from the scraps of dough. Brush the edge of the large circle of dough with water and place the cut-out shapes, touching, around the entire edge to form a decorative border. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour. Repeat the process with the remaining dough.
For the cookies: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator for another use. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Using the 2¾-inch cutter, cutting as closely together as possible, cut out about 24 cookies. Place them on 1–2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spaced ½ inch apart, and chill until firm.
Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven on the lower rack until lightly toasted, about 5 to 7 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
To prepare the filling: In a medium-size heavy-duty saucepan, stir together the cream, honey, and sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise and with the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the mixture. Add the butter and, over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil without stirring, tilting and swirling the pan to ensure it cooks evenly without coloring. Cook the mixture 5 to 6 minutes, until it reaches 230 degrees on a candy thermometer (thread stage). Remove from the heat and sift in the flour, whisking to combine. Remove the vanilla bean. Stir in the candied zest, almonds, pistachios, and cranberries.
For the tarts: Using the back of a spoon or an offset spatula, spread half of the filling onto each tart shell, up to the decorative border.
For the cookies: Allow the mixture to sit until it’s cool enough to handle. With your hands, pick up a heaping teaspoon of the filling and roll it between your palms to form a ¾-inch ball. Flatten to a 2¼-inch disc and place on top of the cookie. It should be about ½ inch from the edge of the cookie. To make sure you have the right amount of filling, bake a test cookie. The filling should bubble and spread into a thin candied surface, running over the sides in a few places.
Bake the tarts for 20 to 25 minutes, and the cookies for about 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking. The crust should be nicely browned and the filling an even, deep caramel color. Allow to cool completely. Slice the tarts into wedges, slicing between the decorative shapes.
Yield: Two 10-inch tarts or about 2 dozen cookies
IF YOU’RE AT THE KITCHEN COUNTER, TRIMMING SLIVER AFTER SLIVER OF THIS irresistible almond tart (and you’ve lost count of the slivers), not to worry. According to Calvin Trillin, noted food writer and humorist, as long as you’re standing up, not using a fork, or eating off of someone else’s plate, the calories never count.
Special Item: 10-INCH TART RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
1 recipe cream cheese dough with the turns and folds (see Rugelach), chilled
FOR THE FILLING:
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) unblanched almonds
1 cup powdered sugar
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (4½ ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 extra-large egg
1 extra-large egg yolk
2 tablespoons dark rum
1 tablespoon pure almond extract
1 recipe Pastry Cream (see Kinder Pies)
FOR THE TOPPING:
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
To prepare the filling: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, grind the almonds with half of the powdered sugar until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining powdered sugar and mix on medium 3 to 4 minutes until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the almond mixture and mix another minute, until combined.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolk, rum, and almond extract. Turn the mixer to low and slowly pour in the egg mixture a few teaspoons at a time and mix until incorporated. Add the Pastry Cream and mix on low until just combined. Refrigerate until set, about an hour.
Cut the dough into 2 unequal parts, one slightly larger than the other, and return the smaller part to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the larger half of the dough out to a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring according to these directions, but don’t trim the excess dough. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour.
Roll the other half of the dough out to a circle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cut out a circle slightly larger than 11 inches. Place it on a baking sheet, and, using a straight-edge razor or very sharp knife, score the dough with diagonal lines, spaced ¼ inch apart, to cover the entire surface, being careful not to cut all the way through. Score diagonal lines going in the other direction to make a diagonal grid. Chill until firm, 30 minutes to an hour.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove the tart shell and top crust from the refrigerator. Spoon the filling into the tart shell and spread evenly. Brush the edge of the tart shell with the egg white and center the top over the tart, pressing down gently. Using a rolling pin, roll over the edge gently to seal the top crust to the bottom crust and remove the excess dough. Brush the top with egg white and sprinkle the surface with sugar.
Bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes, until nicely browned.
Yield: One 10-inch tart
EVERY BAKERY NEEDS A FEW YEAR-ROUND FRUIT TARTS, AND THIS IS ONE OF our favorites. The individual flavors of the bananas and hazelnuts, sweet, rich and nutty, complement without overshadowing one another. When plums go out of season and you’re waiting for tangerines to hit the markets, this banana standby won’t disappoint.
Special Item: 12-INCH TART RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
½ recipe (¾ pound) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
FOR THE FILLING:
½ cup (2½ ounces) hazelnuts
1¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon powdered sugar
½ cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
5 extra-large egg whites
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
FOR THE TOPPING:
4 to 5 bananas, ripe yet firm and sliced at an angle, ¼ inch thick and about 1½ inches in diameter
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a 13-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring and chill according to these directions.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
To prepare the filling: Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly. Allow to cool. Gather the nuts into a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the hazelnuts with half of the powdered sugar, and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar and flour, and pulse to combine. Pour in about two-thirds of the egg whites and process until a smooth paste. Add the remaining egg whites and pulse on and off until combined. Transfer to a large bowl.
In a medium saucepan over high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. It will bubble somewhat vigorously as it browns. Continue to cook 3 to 5 more minutes until the bubbles subside and the butter is dark brown and has a nutty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean.
Slowly pour the browned butter and dark flecks into the nut mixture, whisking to incorporate.
Pour the mixture into the tart shell. Starting from the outer edge, arrange the bananas, slightly overlapping, in concentric circles to cover the entire surface of the tart. Sprinkle with the sugar and bake for about an hour, until the filling is firm and the crust is nicely browned.
Yield: One 12-inch tart
IF THERE HASN’T BEEN A NURSERY RHYME NAMED AFTER THESE CHARMING LITtle pies, then there should be. Decorated with whimsical cutout shapes of dough and filled with chocolate and vanilla cream and sweet rice, Kinder Pies are irresistible to both kids and adults. Kids can’t resist their playful appeal and adults can’t resist their buttery crust and creamy rich center. If you don’t have enough rings, you can always make a smaller batch.
Special Items: TWELVE 3½-INCH FLAN RINGS, WITH ½-INCH SIDES, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
5-INCH ROUND CUTTER
2-INCH ROUND OR DECORATIVE COOKIE CUTTERS (STARS, HEARTS, ANIMALS)
FOR THE DOUGH:
4 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 sticks (1 pound) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 extra-large eggs
4 extra-large egg yolks
FOR THE RICE:
½ cup Arborio rice
2 cups whole milk
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
FOR THE PASTRY CREAM:
7 extra-large egg yolks
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
FOR THE CHOCOLATE CREAM:
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and set aside
FOR THE TOPPING:
2 extra-large egg yolks, lightly beaten with a few drops of water
½ cup granulated sugar
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour and salt and process or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse a few times, or mix on low, until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
In a small bowl, whisk together the whole eggs and egg yolks. Add to the flour mixture and pulse a few times, or mix on low, until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and working with small sections at a time, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, using a metal scraper or spatula, scrape and gather it together and knead a few times to gather into a ball. Flatten into a disc, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
To make the rice: In a small ovenproof saucepan combine the rice, milk, sugar, and salt. Over high heat, bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and cook in the oven until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 30 to 35 minutes.
To make the Pastry Cream: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and sugar on high until the mixture is very thick, pale yellow, and forms a ribbon when the beater is lifted from the bowl. Remove the bowl from the mixer and sift in the cornstarch and flour, whisking to combine.
In a medium stainless-steel saucepan over high heat, begin to warm the milk. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the milk. Bring the milk to a boil. Slowly pour about one quarter of the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Return the egg-milk mixture to the saucepan to combine with the remaining milk. Cook over medium heat, whisking the mixture until it’s thickened and bubbles in the center. Over a medium bowl, strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir in the rice. Divide half the mixture into another bowl. Whisk the butter into one and the melted chocolate into the other. Cover each with plastic wrap, pressing it against the surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Chill in the refrigerator until cold.
Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out 12 circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet to chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour. Set the scraps aside.
Roll and cut out the remaining dough in the same manner.
Gather all of the scraps together and chill. Roll the dough out ¼ inch thick and, using your shaped cutters, cut out 12 shapes and chill.
Place the flan rings on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Line the rings according to these directions, but don’t trim off the excess dough. Fill the shells halfway with the vanilla cream. Top with the chocolate cream filling to just below the rim.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove the other 12 circles of dough from the refrigerator. Brush the edge of the filled tart shells with the egg yolk and center a circle over each tart. With your fingers or using a rolling pin, press or roll around the rim to seal the top crust to the bottom crust and to trim the excess dough. Continue this process with the remaining tarts.
Brush the tops of the tarts with the egg yolk and place the cutout shapes in the center of each, gently pressing down to ensure that they stay in place. Brush again with the egg yolk and sprinkle the entire top of each tart with about 2 teaspoons of sugar.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
Yield: 12 small tarts
THESE DELICIOUS, PRETTY LITTLE TARTS USE THE ENTIRE LEMON—EVERYTHING but the seeds. Their deep, buttery crust is coated with raspberry jam and filled with zingy lemon batter. This untraditional “lemon tart” is very elegant and easily made year round.
Special Item: EIGHT 2-INCH-TALL, 3-INCH-DIAMETER CAKE RINGS (SEE SOURCES), COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
1 recipe (1½ pounds) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
2 tablespoons raspberry jam
1 whole lemon, washed and cut into quarters, seeds removed
3 cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1¼ cups (7 ounces) whole blanched almonds
¾ cup cornstarch
4 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
FOR THE GLAZE:
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 tablespoons buttermilk
1 tablespoon corn syrup
To line the molds: Separate out one third of the dough and return the rest to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a rectangle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Using an offset spatula or the back of a spoon, spread a thin, even layer of raspberry jam over the dough. Using your cake ring as a cutter, cut out 8 circles, cutting as closely together as possible. Transfer the rings and dough onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spaced 2 inches apart.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the remaining dough into a rectangle about 18 × 9½ inches, trimming the edges straight. Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the counter, cut vertically every 2 inches to make eight 2 × 9-inch strips. Line the insides of the cake rings, pressing gently with your fingers to help the dough stick to the sides of the molds. (It may be necessary to brush on more melted butter if the dough has trouble sticking.) If they don’t fit perfectly, patch with dough scraps and smooth to even. Trim off the excess dough from the tops and chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the batter: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the lemon, 1 cup of the powdered sugar, and the corn syrup, and process for 2 to 3 minutes until coarsely ground. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the remaining powdered sugar with the almonds and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the cornstarch and pulse to combine.
Add about ¼ cup of the beaten eggs to the nut mixture and pulse on and off a few times to combine. Add the remaining eggs in two more batches, pulsing on and off until smooth. Add to the lemon mixture, and whisk to combine.
In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Bring it to a boil and remove from the heat. Skim off and discard the milk solids accumulated on the top and measure the butter. You should have ½ cup. Pour the hot butter over the lemon-nut mixture, whisking to combine.
Fill the molds with the lemon filling to three-quarters full.
Bake for 40 to 50 minutes until firm and nicely browned. After the first 20 to 25 minutes of baking, when the crust begins to color and the cake is slightly firm, remove from the oven. Using a small paring knife, make an X in the center of each cake, cutting all the way through the top surface. Return to the oven to finish baking. The batter will rise up through the X for an uneven, risen surface.
To prepare the glaze: In a small bowl whisk together the powdered sugar, buttermilk, and corn syrup. Set aside.
Allow the tarts to cool slightly, about 15 minutes, and brush them with the glaze or cool completely and sift a fine layer of powdered sugar over the top.
Yield: 8 individual tarts
LARGE, SUCCULENT CHUNKS OF APPLES BATHED IN BROWNED BUTTER COVER the surface of this rustic free-form tart. The walnut filling is a pleasing surprise, nestled inside the crispy browned puff pastry crust. It’s rich and delicious and very attractive. Make 1 large tart or 12 smaller tarts.
Special Item: 6-INCH CUTTER
FOR THE NUT FILLING:
2 cups (8 ounces) walnuts
¾ cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 extra-large egg white
About ⅔ recipe (3 pounds) Puff Pastry, chilled
3 large (about 1 pound) Granny Smith apples, peeled
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ stick plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
To prepare the nut filling: Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the nuts with half the powdered sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar, corn syrup, and egg white, and pulse on and off a few times until it’s a smooth paste. Chill until firm, about 1 hour.
For the large tart: On a lightly floured work surface, roll the Puff Pastry to a 12 × 14-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Trim the edges straight and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill until firm, 30 minutes to an hour.
Divide the filling into 5 pieces. Roll two of the pieces into 10-inch-long ropes, 1 inch thick, and two of the pieces into 12-inch-long ropes, 1 inch thick, setting the remaining piece aside. Place the ropes on the Puff Pastry to form a square, about an inch from the edge, pinching the ropes together at the ends to form corners. Don’t worry if your ropes of filling break; simply pinch them back together. Fold the edges of the Puff Pastry over the ropes of filling, firmly pressing down with your fingertips to seal. Smear the remaining walnut filling over the bottom of the Puff Pastry and place in the freezer for at least an hour until frozen.
To make small tarts: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the Puff Pastry out ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface as necessary. Cut out 5 to 6 circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. It may be necessary to gather the scraps and stack them to reroll. Smear about 1–2 tablespoons of the filling into the center of each circle, leaving a ½-inch border. Make a scalloped edge by pushing the thumb of one hand against the thumb and index finger of the other hand. Continue around the entire edge of each circle and then freeze at least 1 hour until frozen. Repeat the process with the remaining dough.
Cut the apples away from their cores, in four pieces. For the large tart, cut the apples flat side down, into ¾-inch slices. For the small tarts, slice the apples flat side down, a little less than ½ inch thick. Place the apples in a medium bowl and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and chill until cold, about 15 minutes.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper position for the large tart and the upper and lower positions for the small tarts and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. It will bubble somewhat vigorously as it browns. Continue to cook 3 to 5 more minutes, until the bubbles subside and the butter is dark brown and has a nutty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean. Pour the butter over the apples and toss to coat. Allow to cool. Store the extra butter that settles in the bottom of the bowl in the refrigerator for another use.
For the large tart: Place the apple wedges on the bottom of the tart, curved side up, packed closely together in three rows with 5 or 6 wedges in each row. Pile the leftover wedges on top of the rows and sprinkle the entire tart with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar.
For the small tarts: Place 6 to 8 apple slices, curved side up, onto the bottom of each tart. Sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over each.
Bake the tarts for 45 minutes, until the crust is well browned and the apples are cooked.
Yield: One 12 × 14-inch tart or 12 individual tarts
EVERYONE WHO BITES INTO THIS TART INSTANTLY STARTS TALKING ABOUT their grandmother. It’s nutty and sweet, could that be why? Use the leftover dough to make nut cookies.
Special Item: RECTANGULAR FLAN RING (SEE SOURCES), 12 × 4 INCHES, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER, OPTIONAL
FOR THE DOUGH:
⅓ cup (1¾ ounces) whole unblanched almonds
¾ cup powdered sugar
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 extra-large egg yolk
2 tablespoons heavy cream, half and half, or whole milk
1 tablespoon orange flower water
FOR THE FILLING:
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (2½ ounces) whole unblanched almonds
½ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 to 3 extra-large egg whites
1 to 2 tablespoons orange marmalade
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the almonds for both the dough and the filling on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly. Allow the nuts to cool. Separate out ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the nuts for the filling and set aside.
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine ⅓ cup of the almonds and half of the powdered sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar, the flour, baking powder, and salt, and pulse a few times to combine. Add the butter and pulse on and off for about half a minute, until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, cream, and orange flower water. Add to the flour mixture and pulse until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, using a metal scraper or spatula scrape and gather it together. Divide the dough in half and gently knead each half together. Flatten into two rectangles, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
To prepare the filling: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the almonds with ½ cup of the powdered sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in two of the egg whites, whisking to combine. Gradually draw in the dry ingredients, and whisk until thoroughly incorporated. The mixture should be shiny, smooth, and spreadable. If it seems too stiff, add a few drops of the extra egg white. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove half of the dough from the refrigerator and turn onto a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a rectangle, 13 × 5 inches, about ¼ inch thick and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Set the mold on top of the dough and press down, cutting all the way through the dough. Remove the mold and set it aside. If you’re not using a mold, shape the rectangle free-form and trim the edges to 12 × 4 inches.
Using an offset spatula or the back of a spoon, spread the orange marmalade evenly over the dough. Spread the nut filling over the marmalade. Chill the bottom while you roll out the remaining dough.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 15 × 6-inch rectangle, ⅛ inch thick. Cut the dough into 12 strips, ¾ inch wide. Remove the bottom from the refrigerator. Layer 6 strips diagonally across the filling, at 1-inch intervals, using the shorter pieces toward the short ends of the rectangle. To form the second layer of lattice, place the remaining strips over the first layer, crisscrossing diagonally.
Place the mold over the dough and press down to trim the strips, and bake with the mold in place. If you aren’t using a mold, trim the strips with a knife. (Wrap these and freeze for another use.)
Allow to cool and slice.
Gather the scraps, chill, and roll out to make cookies.
Bake 40 minutes, until nicely browned.
Yield: 8 to 10 slices
OUR PEAR TART IS PROBABLY VERY DIFFERENT FROM YOURS. FOR OURS, WE cut the pear in half, leaving its core, seeds, and stem intact. We cut off a section of the rounded bottom of the fruit, so it sits upright on the puff pastry, providing a lovely cross-section view of the pear’s interior. Look for small pears, about 2¼ inches long. If you can’t find them, large pears will work; just make them small by slicing off a larger section of the rounded bottom of the pear. Like a minimalist sculpture, the beauty of this tart is its pure formal simplicity. Oh yeah, it tastes good too.
Special Item: 5-INCH ROUND CUTTER
½ recipe (about 2 pounds) Puff Pastry, chilled
5 small Bartlett pears (about 1¼ pounds), small and ripe, yet firm
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
Divide the Puff Pastry in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the pastry out to about ⅛ inch thick, lightly flouring the surface as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out 5 circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet to chill in the freezer until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour. Gather the scraps of dough, stack them on each other, and wrap in plastic wrap and freeze for another use. Repeat with the remaining Puff Pastry.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
On a cutting board, lay each pear on its side. Starting at the base of the stem, using a small, sharp knife, carefully slice the stem in half vertically. Slice the pear in half, keeping each half of the stem intact and leaving the core and seeds in place. Continue with the remaining pears.
Shave off a 1-inch circular piece of the pear’s bottom third, to create a flat area so that the pear can sit upright on the tart. If your pear is large, shave off more of the pear to scale it down a little. Place the pear halves upright, in the center of each circle.
Brush the pastry with the egg white and sprinkle the entire surface of each tart with about 1 teaspoon of the sugar.
Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the pear is thoroughly cooked and shiny and the puff pastry is a deep golden brown. Rotate the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
Yield: 10 tarts
PICNIC TARTS: “THEY’RE SO SMALL YOU CAN SAMPLE ALL FIVE FLAVORS.”
PICNIC TARTS IS THE NAME THESE CUTE LITTLE TARTLETS GO BY AT LA BREA Bakery. Made daily in a variety of flavors, Pistachio-Currant, Brown Butter and Fruit, Lemon, Nut, and Mini Pear Rustics, these 2-bite-maximum tarts take the place of a cookie. They’re so small you can sample all five flavors.
All of the fillings, except that for the Nut Tarts, can be made in advance. With a little planning, you can easily make the entire assortment.
Hopefully you’ll have at least 12 molds; if not, line as many as you have, bake them, and reuse the molds for the next batch after you remove the tarts.
Special Items: AT LEAST SIX OR UP TO TWENTY-FOUR 2¾-INCH TARTLET MOLDS (SEE SOURCES), ¼-CUP CAPACITY, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
3-INCH ROUND CUTTER
1 recipe (1½ pounds) Sweet Pastry Dough, chilled
To prepare the tart shells for the Pistachio-Currant, Brown Butter and Fruit, Lemon, and Nut Tarts: On a lightly floured work surface, roll one half of the dough out to ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out the circles. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet, not overlapping, and chill until firm, 30 minutes to an hour. Set the scraps aside.
Roll and cut out the remaining dough in the same manner. Gather all the scraps together, chill, roll, and cut.
Working with one at a time, soften the edge of the circle by gently pinching and stretching it with your fingers to make it pliable. Line the tart molds, pressing the dough into the corners with your fingers. If the dough shrinks below the rim of the mold, press the dough slightly to force it up to the rim. If there’s excess dough, trim it even with the rim. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
Special Item: SEVERAL DOUGH-LINED TARTLET MOLDS, UP TO 24 (SEE PICNIC TARTS)
1½ cups (6½ ounces) raw, shelled, unsalted pistachios
3 cups powdered sugar
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
6 extra-large egg whites, minus 2 tablespoons
2 sticks plus 2 tablespoons (9 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) currants
Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, grind the nuts with half of the sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the flour and remaining sugar, and pulse to combine. Pour in about two-thirds of the egg whites and process until a smooth paste. Add the remaining egg whites, and pulse on and off until combined. Transfer the nut mixture to a large bowl.
In a small saucepan, over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise and, with the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. After a few minutes, the butter will become foamy and begin to darken. Swirl the pan to promote even browning, taking care that it doesn’t burn. Continue cooking about 5–7 more minutes until the bubbles subside and the liquid is dark brown with a nutty, toasty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean.
Slowly pour the browned butter and dark flecks into the nut mixture, whisking continuously. Stir in the currants.
Spoon about 2 tablespoons of filling into each tart shell, place the molds on 1–2 baking sheets, ½ inch apart, and bake for 25 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned and the filling is firm to the touch. Halfway through, rotate the baking sheets to ensure even baking.
Yield: 24 tartlets
Special Item: SEVERAL DOUGH-LINED TARTLET MOLDS, UP TO 24 (SEE PICNIC TARTS)
3 extra-large eggs
1¼ cups granulated sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
Scant ½ cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
1½ cups (¾ pound) strawberries, sliced in half vertically, or raspberries, blueberries, or ¼-inch chunks of pears
Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Stir in the flour and whisk until combined.
In a small saucepan, over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. It will bubble somewhat vigorously as it browns. Continue cooking 3 to 5 more minutes, until the bubbles subside and the liquid is dark brown with a nutty, toasty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean.
Slowly, pour the browned butter and dark flecks in a steady stream into the egg mixture, whisking continuously.
Place half a strawberry, or 3 to 5 raspberries, or 5 blueberries, or 3 chunks of pear into each tart shell and pour 2 tablespoons of the filling into each shell. Sprinkle a pinch of sugar over each, place the molds on 1–2 baking sheets, spaced ½ inch apart, and bake for 25 minutes until the crust is nicely browned. Halfway through, rotate the baking sheets to ensure even baking.
Yield: 24 tartlets
I’M TORN BETWEEN THE LOOK OF AN OPEN-FACED TART WITH ALL OF THE NUTS exposed and the appealing texture of a pie with a top crust. You be the judge. If you make the two-crusted-pie version, you’ll need to have more dough on hand or make fewer tarts.
Special Items: CANDY THERMOMETER (CHECK YOUR THERMOMETER’S ACCURACY IN BOILING WATER; IT SHOULD READ 212 DEGREES)
SEVERAL DOUGH-LINED TARTLET MOLDS, UP TO 24 (SEE PICNIC TARTS)
¾ cup (3 ounces) hulled pumpkin seeds
¾ cup (3 ounces) whole unblanched almonds
Scant ¾ cup (3 ounces) whole unsalted macadamia nuts
Scant ¾ cup (3 ounces) hazelnuts
1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1½ cups granulated sugar
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. On another baking sheet spread the nuts in separate rows and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Shake the pans halfway through to ensure that the nuts and seeds toast evenly. Allow the nuts to cool. Gather the hazelnuts into a kitchen towel and rub them together to remove the skins. Cut the macadamia nuts into rough halves.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
Pour the cream and the salt into a medium bowl and set aside.
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. It will bubble somewhat vigorously as it browns. Continue cooking about 3 to 5 more minutes until the bubbles subside and the liquid is dark brown with a nutty, toasty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean, pour over the cream and whisk to combine.
In a medium saucepan, over medium-high heat, heat the water, sugar, and corn syrup. When the mixture comes to a boil, using a pastry brush dipped in water, wash down the sides of the pan to dissolve any sugar granules. Allow the caramel to cook, without stirring, for about 10 to 15 minutes. The mixture will begin to turn a light amber color, and will be covered with slowly bursting bubbles. Continue to cook, swirling the pan to ensure even coloring, to 268 degrees on a candy thermometer (hard ball stage). If you don’t have a candy thermometer, dip your fingers into ice water, pick up a very small piece of the sugar syrup, and immediately plunge your fingers and the syrup into ice water. Remove the sugar and pinch it together with your fingers. It should form a hard ball. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the cream mixture and nuts. Be careful; the mixture may spatter. Return to the heat and simmer on medium-low for another 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the temperature reaches 210 degrees on a candy thermometer. The mixture should be slightly thickened and reduced and a pale caramel color. Remove from the heat, pour into a bowl, and allow to cool slightly for about 15 to 20 minutes, until barely warm. (As the nut mixture cools, it frequently crystallizes and turns grainy. Although the caramel needs to cool down a bit so it doesn’t melt the crust, it’s important that the molds are filled while the mixture is still smooth.)
Fill each tart shell with 2 tablespoons of the caramel mixture and, if using a top crust, center it over the filling, cupping with your hands and pressing down to seal the top and bottom crusts together, and trim the excess dough. With a sharp knife, score the top with 4 lines, like a sunburst, not meeting in the middle, and score 4 small lines in between the large ones.
Place the molds on 1–2 baking sheets, spaced ½ inch apart, and bake for about 25 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
Yield: 24 tartlets
Special Item: SEVERAL LINED TARTLET MOLDS, UP TO 24 (SEE PICNIC TARTS)
4 to 5 extra-large eggs, beaten to measure 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons
¾ cup lemon juice (about 4 to 5 lemons)
1 tablespoon lemon zest, finely chopped (about 1 lemon)
2¼ cups granulated sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, lemon juice, lemon zest, and sugar. Sift in the flour and mix until combined.
Fill each tart shell with 3½ tablespoons of the filling, and place the molds on 1–2 baking sheets, ½ inch apart.
Bake for 25 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned and the filling is set, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
Yield: 24 tartlets
THE FILLING IS PARTIALLY ENCLOSED BY FOLDING UP THE EDGE OF THE DOUGH into a six-sided stop sign. These interesting shapes add decor to your platter of assorted mini picnic tarts.
Special Item: 4-INCH ROUND CUTTER
FOR THE DOUGH:
3 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 sticks plus 2 tablespoons (9 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
FOR THE FILLING:
4 to 5 Bartlett pears, unpeeled, or 4 to 5 apples (about 2¼ pounds), peeled and cut into tiny ¼-inch cubes
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour and sugar, and pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and vanilla extract, and pulse on and off a few times or mix on low until the mixture barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour, and working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, using a metal scraper or spatula, scrape and gather it together. Knead the dough a few times and flatten into a disc. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
To prepare the topping: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour and sugar and pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off or mix on low until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal. Chill until ready to use.
For the filling: In a medium mixing bowl, toss the cubed pears or apples with the sugar and allow to sit for about an hour, until the fruit begins to release some of its juices.
Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out the circles. Place the circles on two parchment-lined baking sheets, not overlapping, and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes to an hour. Set the scraps aside.
Roll and cut out the remaining dough in the same manner. Gather all the scraps together, chill, roll, and cut.
Remove the circles from the refrigerator. Working with one at a time (it may be necessary to chill some of the circles so the dough doesn’t become too soft), mound 2 tablespoons of the fruit into the center. Fold a very small section of the edge of the dough (about the size of your fingertip) up toward the filling and press down to seal. Fold another small section of the dough up toward the filling, allowing the dough to pleat as you fold. Press down where the two edges overlap to ensure that the dough holds the folded shape. Continue to work your way around the tart, to make about 6 folds. Gently cup your hand over the entire tart and press down the pleats to ensure that they seal well and will not unfold while baking. Repeat with the remaining circles and place them on two parchment-lined baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour.
Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the streusel topping over the exposed fruit and press down gently so that it adheres.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is golden brown, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
Yield: Twenty-four 4-inch tarts
COOKED FRUIT ENCASED IN PUFF PASTRY MAY SOUND SIMPLE TO YOU, BUT ONCE you’ve tasted these Plum Puffs you’ll see how incredibly sophisticated and luxurious it can be. Try other compotes too, like the strawberry-rhubarb compote (see Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler with Brown Butter Biscuit).
Folding the dough is necessary to keep the compote in the tart during the early stages of baking. Don’t worry if the folds aren’t perfect. As the Plum Puffs bake, the folds will open and the tarts will take on a shape all their own.
Special Item: 5-INCH ROUND CUTTER
FOR THE COMPOTE:
2 tablespoons water
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
4 (¾ pound) plums, peaches, or nectarines, pitted and cut into eighths, to equal about 3 to 4 cups
1 tablespoon brandy
2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon of water
½ recipe (about 2 pounds) Puff Pastry, chilled
FOR THE TOPPING:
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
To prepare the compote: In a large, heavy-duty, deep saucepan, stir together the water and sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the sugar mixture. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a boil without stirring. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush down the sides of the pan to remove any undissolved sugar granules. When the sugar begins to color, after 3 to 4 minutes, begin to tilt and swirl the pan to cook evenly. When the mixture reaches an even medium caramel color, remove from the heat.
Add the fruit. The mixture may spatter and the sugar may seize and harden. Remove from the heat, add the brandy, and return to medium-high heat for 4 to 6 more minutes, until the fruit is tender and the hardened sugar has dissolved.
Place a large strainer over a bowl and pour in the fruit, straining the liquid into the bowl. Remove the vanilla bean. Pour the liquid back into the saucepan and transfer the fruit to the bowl. Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil, remove from the heat and whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Cook, whisking constantly, for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the juice is shiny, bubbly, and slightly thickened. Combine with the fruit and allow to cool.
Divide the Puff Pastry in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the pastry out about ⅛ inch thick, lightly flouring the surface as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out the circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet to chill until firm, about 30 minutes to an hour. Gather the scraps of pastry, stack them on each other, and wrap in plastic wrap to freeze for another use. Repeat with the other half of Puff Pastry.
Working with one circle at a time (it may be necessary to chill some of the circles so the dough doesn’t become too soft), mound about ¼ cup of compote into the center of the circle. Fold a ¾-inch section of the edge of the circle up toward the filling and press down to seal. Fold another small section up toward the filling, allowing the pastry to pleat as you fold. Press down where the 2 edges overlap to ensure that the pastry holds the folded shape. Continue to work your way around the tart, making 6 folds. Gently cup your hand over the entire tart and press down the pleats to ensure that they seal. Repeat with the remaining circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet, 2 inches apart. Chill for at least 30 minutes, until firm.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Brush the pastry with the egg white and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned.
Yield: 9 puffs
I HATE PUMPKIN PIES. THEY ARE ALWAYS OVERSEASONED WITH PUMPKIN-friendly spices and the texture is inevitably watery and mealy. Unfortunately, they are in high demand over the holidays, and at the bakery, we are forced to make hundreds of them. This got me thinking: What can I do to make a great pumpkin pie that even I would enjoy eating? Yams came to mind first. Though sturdier in texture, they would still be creamy and sweet. Yams led to melted butter, melted butter led to vanilla, and vanilla led to maple. I don’t think there’s a better pumpkin pie out there. If you like more spice in yours, go ahead and spice it up.
Special Item: 10-INCH PIE PAN
FOR THE DOUGH:
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
¾ cup vegetable shortening, chilled
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
2¾ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup ice water
FOR THE FILLING:
2 medium Jewel or Garnet yams
½ cup canned pumpkin
½ stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
2 extra-large eggs
1 extra-large egg yolk
¾ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons whole milk
⅓ cup pure maple syrup
3 tablespoons light brown sugar, lightly packed
1 tablespoon brandy
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon allspice
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 very small pinch ground cloves
1 small pinch white pepper
2 tablespoons milk or water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 to 5 gratings of fresh whole nutmeg
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter, shortening, and salt and mix on low 2 to 3 minutes until softened. Turn the mixer up to medium and mix another 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the flour in 3 batches, mixing on low until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal. Add the ice water, mixing just until the dough comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead a few times to gather it into a ball. Divide the dough in half, flatten each into a disc, and wrap in plastic. Chill one of the discs until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight. Freeze the remaining dough for another use.
To prepare the filling: Place the yams directly on the oven rack and bake them until they are very soft and starting to burst, about 45 minutes to an hour. Allow to cool, remove the skins, and set aside.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to an 11-inch circle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Fold the dough into quarters and place the counterpoint in the middle of the pie pan. Unfold the dough and arrange it evenly in the pan, allowing the excess dough to hang over the edges. Trim the dough, leaving ½ inch of dough hanging over the edge. Fold the ½-inch section of dough underneath so it’s even with the rim of the pan to create a thicker edge. Make a scalloped edge by pushing the thumb of one hand against the thumb and index finger of the other hand. Continue around the entire edge of the dough. Chill until firm, 30 minutes to an hour.
Turn the oven down to 350 degrees.
Blind-bake the crust according to these directions.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, puree the yams with the pumpkin. Transfer the mixture to a small saucepan. Over medium heat, stirring constantly, allow the moisture to evaporate as the mixture bubbles and cooks, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat.
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. Continue cooking about 3 to 5 more minutes, until the bubbles subside and the butter is dark brown and has a nutty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean.
Add the browned butter and dark flecks to the pumpkin-yam mixture and combine. Strain the mixture into a large bowl.
In a medium bowl, whisk the whole eggs, egg yolk, cream, milk, maple syrup, brown sugar, brandy, ginger, allspice, salt, cloves, and pepper. Add to the pumpkin mixture, whisking to combine.
Brush the scalloped rim with the milk or water and pour in the filling to just below the rim.
In a small bowl combine the granulated sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sprinkle the topping over the filling.
Bake for about 1 to 1½ hours, until the filling is set and the crust is nicely browned. When done, the filling should no longer quiver when you gently shake the baking sheet.
Yield: One 10-inch pie
RED-FLESHED PLUMS, SUCH AS SANTA ROSA, ELEPHANT HEARTS, OR PLUOTS, are one of my favorite summer fruits, never overly sweet and always full of flavor. When baked, their true character is revealed. That concentrated plum flavor magically emerges and the wrinkled skin and vibrant purple tones seem almost unreal. As you pull this tart out of the oven, please don’t even think of ruining it with that awful gooey traditional fruit tart glaze.
Special Item: ONE 12-INCH TART RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
FOR THE DOUGH:
1 tablespoon anise seeds
1¼ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 extra-large egg yolks
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 recipe hazelnut filling (see Hazelnut-Banana Tarts)
FOR THE TOPPING:
10 to 12 (about 2 pounds) Santa Rosa, Elephant Heart, or Pluot plums, ripe yet firm, cut into eighths
1 tablespoon granulated sugar, for sprinkling
To prepare the dough: In a small sauté pan over medium-low heat, toast the anise seeds, stirring occasionally until they become aromatic and are lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Allow to cool and coarsely chop, crush, or grind in a spice mill.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and anise seeds and pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off, or mix on low, until it is the consistency of a coarse meal.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cream, and vanilla extract. Add to the butter mixture and pulse or mix on low until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When all the dough has been smeared out, scrape and gather it together using a metal scraper or spatula. Knead it a few times to gather it into a ball and flatten it into a disc. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, about 2 hours or overnight.
On a lightly floured surface roll the dough out to a 13-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the tart ring and chill according to these directions.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Pour the hazelnut filling into the tart shell. Then, starting from the outer edge, arrange the plums skin side down in concentric circles, covering the entire surface of the tart. Sprinkle the plums with the sugar.
Bake for about 40 minutes until the filling is bubbly. Turn the oven down to 325 degrees and continue to bake for another 20 minutes, until the filling is firm and the crust is nicely browned.
Yield: One 12-inch tart
ALMONDS ARE DEFINITELY ONE OF THE SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD. THEY make their presence known in every aspect of this tart. Extract of almond adds a hint of flavor to the crust, while the ground almonds give the filling a crunchy texture with a robust, nutty flavor. A small ring of chocolate subtly marks the center, and sliced almonds festively decorate the top. As the name implies, this is three times as good as any almond tart you’ve had. If you’re not a huge chocolate lover, use half the amount of glaze for a thinner coating of chocolate.
Special Items: 10-INCH FLAN RING, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
5- TO 6-INCH RING FOR DECORATING, OPTIONAL
FOR THE DOUGH:
1 cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons light brown sugar, lightly packed
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into ½-inch cubes
2 tablespoons pure almond extract
FOR THE FILLING:
¾ cup (3½ ounces) whole unblanched almonds
½ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup powdered sugar
½ cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup egg whites, 3 to 4 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon pure almond extract
1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
FOR THE GLAZE:
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons brewed coffee or ½ teaspoon instant espresso powder
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
1 tablespoon brandy
FOR DECORATING:
26 sliced unblanched almonds
To prepare the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugars, and cornstarch and pulse on and off or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and almond extract, and pulse on and off or mix on low until the dough barely comes together.
Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip the heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear the dough away from you to blend it together. When the dough has been all smeared out, scrape and gather the dough together using a metal scraper or spatula.
Knead a few times to gather into a ball and flatten into a disc. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, about 2 hours or overnight.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Line the flan ring and chill according to these directions.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
To prepare the filling: Spread the whole almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.
For the garnish: On a separate baking sheet, spread the sliced almonds and toast for about 5 to 7 minutes, until lightly browned.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the whole almonds with half of the granulated sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar, powdered sugar, and flour, and pulse to combine.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg whites and the almond extract together. Add about two-thirds of the egg whites and process until a smooth paste. Add the remaining egg whites and pulse on and off until combined. Transfer to a large bowl.
In a medium saucepan over high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. Continue cooking 3 to 5 more minutes, until the bubbles subside and the butter is dark brown and has a toasty, nutty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean and allow to cool.
Slowly pour the browned butter and dark flecks into the nut mixture, whisking to incorporate.
Pour the mixture into the tart and smooth to even. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes. If the surface of the tart bubbles up, prick it in a few places to deflate, and continue baking until firm to the touch and lightly browned.
Allow to cool completely before glazing.
To make the glaze: In a small saucepan over medium high heat, combine the water, coffee, cocoa powder, sugar, and corn syrup. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly to prevent the sauce from burning on the bottom. Remove from the heat, whisk in the melted chocolate and stir in the brandy. Allow to cool to lukewarm.
To glaze the tart, center the 6-inch ring over the tart. Pour the chocolate glaze into the center of the ring, smoothing to even with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Allow to set for about 10 minutes. (If you are not using a 6-inch ring as a guide, spread the glaze in a free-form circle.) Lift off the ring and place the sliced almonds at a slight diagonal, touching, around the entire outer edge of chocolate.
Yield: One 10-inch tart