Extra-Smoky New England Clam Chowder

Extra-Smoky New England Clam Chowder

Serves 6

Without a doubt, my favorite thing about New England clam chowder is the salt pork that flavors the entire soup. In this recipe, I turn to my preferred version of this ingredient, double-smoked bacon, which permeates the rich cream. Unlike many chowders, this one encourages you to leave the bacon in when you serve the soup. It can also be made ahead, provided you don’t add the cream until reheating. To really push this soup over the top, float a few Fried Oysters on the surface of each serving.

 

2 cups dry white wine

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 pounds small clams

¹/₂ pound double-smoked bacon, cut into ¹/₄-inch dice

2 large leeks, white part only, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced, and washed well

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1¹/₂ pounds Yukon Gold Potatoes, peeled and cut into ¹/₄-inch dice

1 quart heavy cream, or 2 cups cream and 2 cups whole milk

 

1. Pour the wine into a large pot and season it with salt and pepper. Place the pot over high heat and warm the wine for 1 to 2 minutes.

2. Add the clams to the pot, cover, and cook until they open, about 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the clams to a large bowl. Set aside to cool. Discard any clams that have not opened. Strain and reserve the cooking liquid in a bowl.

3. When the clams are cool enough to handle, remove them from their shells, if desired. Discard the shells and set the clams aside.

4. Wipe out the pot. Add the bacon and cook over low heat until it renders enough fat to coat the bottom of the pot generously, about 5 minutes. Add the leeks and onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and stir until the leeks and onion are well coated.

5. Pour in the reserved clam cooking liquid and add the potatoes. If the liquid does not cover the potatoes, add enough water just to cover them. Give a good but gentle stir, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the potatoes are just tender but still a bit al dente, about 15 minutes. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

6. Stir in the cream and reserved clams and cook until warmed through; do not boil. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

7. To serve, ladle some soup into each of 6 bowls.

VARIATIONS

Smoked Cod Chowder

For a sensational variation to this recipe, omit the clams and wine and start with Step 4. Add 1¹/₂ cups bottled clam juice in Step 5. Flake ¹/₂ pound smoked cod (see Mail-Order Sources,) at room temperature, into the soup 1 minute before serving.

CLAMS

As a general rule, if I’m making a dish in which clams are eaten whole, I use those that aren’t much bigger in diameter than a ping-pong ball, such as Manila clams, mahogany clams, and a close relative, New Zealand cockles. If, on the other hand, the clams are going to be chopped, I use cherrystone or littleneck clams.

To clean clams, fill a large bowl halfway with cold water and salt it well. Add the clams, agitate them gently, and let soak in the refrigerator for 2 hours. This will draw out the grit. To remove any dirt stuck to the shell, scrub them under cold running water with a towel or a brush reserved for this and other foods (in other words, don’t use the same brush you use to clean your sink).

Ironically, I don’t include chowder clams in any dishes, not even chowder, because I find them too tough regardless of how much you cook or chop them. But their flavor is exceptional and makes a potent clam broth. For each pound of chowder clams, heat ¹/₂ cup dry white wine (or water) in a stockpot with 1 clove smashed and peeled garlic. Add the clams, cover, and cook until they pop open, about 5 minutes. Then, discard the clams and strain the broth. Use it to add flavor to fish stew, soups, and pasta sauces by replacing some of the liquid in a recipe with the clam broth. (I freeze clam broth in ice-cube trays then transfer the cubes to an airtight bag so I can defrost only as much as I need at any given time.)