Moroccan-Spice-Braised Lamb Shank

Moroccan-Spice-Braised Lamb Shanks

Serves 6

The lamb shank is to me what “Piano Man” is to Billy Joel—my first claim-to-fame; the one everyone requests; the dish I’ll be cooking in the afterlife at that big benefit event up in the sky. The robust dish I’ve served in restaurants for almost fifteen years gets its signature flavor from the strategic use of distilled white vinegar and anchovy. The former lightens up the overall character of the dish; the latter punches up the other flavors including that of the lamb itself.

In this version, I use the long, slow braising technique to infuse lamb—a popular meat in North African cuisine—with some of the flavors it goes best with, including the Moroccan spices cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and paprika. Serve this with harissa (see the note at the end of the recipe) and couscous or millet.

 

6 lamb foreshanks (about 1¹/₄ pounds each)

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¹/₂ cup olive oil

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 heaping tablespoons tomato paste

3 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

3 sprigs marjoram

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon green peppercorns, packed in brine, rinsed and drained

1 anchovy fillet, rinsed and patted dry

3 whole heads garlic, cut in half crosswise

2 cups dry white wine

¹/₃ cup distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

5 cups store-bought, reduced-sodium chicken broth or homemade Chicken Stock

2 cups water

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

2 teaspoons ground cumin

¹/₂ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¹/₂ teaspoon cinnamon

 

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the lamb shanks liberally with salt and pepper. With a sharp knife, aiming about 1 inch from the bottom (narrow end) of the shank bones, cut through the meat and tendon, down to the bone and all the way around; this will help the meat to plump up attractively when cooked. Set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a roasting pan over medium-high heat. Add the shanks and brown them all over, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan.

3. Add the celery, carrot, and onion to the pan and cook over medium heat until very soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste, stirring well to coat the vegetables, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stir, and cook for 3 minutes.

4. Add the marjoram, bay leaves, peppercorns, anchovy, and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the white wine, vinegar, and sugar and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the chicken broth, water, coriander, paprika, cumin, cayenne, and cinnamon. Stir well and return to the boil.

5. Return the shanks to the roasting pan. Cover with aluminum foil, transfer to the oven and braise for 1 hour. Remove the foil and braise for 3 more hours, turning the shanks over every half hour, until the meat is very tender. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

6. Remove the shanks from the braising liquid and set aside on a plate, covered with aluminum foil to keep them warm. Strain the liquid into a bowl and let it rest for a few minutes. Use a large spoon to skim off any fat that rises to the surface.

7. To serve, place a shank on each of 6 warm dinner plates or wide, shallow bowls and spoon some braising liquid on top.

TOMORROW’S TABLE

If you have any remaining shanks, bone them, shred the meat, and refrigerate it in the braising liquid. Reheat and serve over couscous for a quick lunch.

HARISSA

Harissa is a fiery Tunisian condiment made from hot peppers and tomatoes and is used to flavor everything from couscous to pastas to sandwiches. It is available in cans at Middle Eastern markets and many gourmet shops. You can also order it online (see Mail-Order Sources).