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Aachen: 211
Accommodations: See Sleeping
Airport: See Frankfurt Airport
Air travel, resources: 219
Alte Mainbrücke (Würzburg): 68–69, 75
Alte Nikolaikirche (Frankfurt): 92
Alte Oper (Frankfurt): 89
Alter Markt (Cologne): 197, 208
Altes Haus (Bacharach): 137, 142
Alt-Rothenburger Handwerkerhaus (Rothenburg): 28
Altstadt (Frankfurt): 93–94
Apple wine, in Frankfurt: 104–105
ATMs: 213–214
Augsburg: 49
Bacharach: 124, 130–145; activities, 139; eating, 141–144; helpful hints, 131–132; map, 134–135; nightlife, 144; self-guided walk, 132–138; sleeping, 139–141; tourist information, 131; transportation, 144–145
Bacharach City Towers: 137–138
Bacharach Old Town Walls: 139
Bacharach Protestant Church: 136
Bachstrasse (Beilstein): 184
Bad Mergentheim: 44
Bad Windsheim: 31
Bahnhofsvorplatz (Cologne): 194
Banking District (Frankfurt): 78, 84, 86–87
Baumeister Haus (Rothenburg): 13, 22
Beer gardens/halls: Cologne, 208–209; Frankfurt, 106; Rothenburg, 38–39; St. Goar, 160; Würzburg, 73–75, 76
Beethoven (Ludwig) Birthplace (Bonn): 210
Beilstein: 181–188; eating, 187–188; sights/activities, 182–186; sleeping, 186–187
Beilstein’s Castle: 185
Beilstein Synagogue: 183–184
Besucherzentrum Loreley: 129
Bettwar: 31
Beverages: See Beer; Wine and vineyards
Biking (bike rentals): Bacharach, 131–132; Beilstein, 186; Cochem, 168; Cologne, 194; Franconia, 31; Mosel Valley, 164, 166, 168; Rhine Valley, 116, 130, 131–132, 148; Rothenburg, 9, 31; St. Goar, 151, 153; Würzburg, 55
Boat travel and cruises: Cologne, 192; Frankfurt, 83; Mosel River, 163–164, 172, 182, 186; Rhine River, 114–115, 119. See also Ferries
Boppard: 119–120
Bratwürststand am Markt (Würzburg): 67
Braubach: 126
Burg Eltz: 175–181; boat cruises, 164; hiking, 177–179; map, 176; sleeping near, 181; transportation, 175, 177
Bürgerspital (Würzburg): 73
Burggasse (Rothenburg): 20, 22–23; eating, 40
Burg Rheinfels: 120, 153–158; map, 154; self-guided tour, 155–158
Burgtor Gate (Rothenburg): 21
Buses (bus travel): 217; Beilstein, 182; Mosel Valley, 163; Romantic Road, 41, 50–52, 109
Business hours: 218
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: See Taxis
Campgrounds: 133, 139, 183, 186
Car travel (driving): 217–218; Bacharach, 145; Beilstein, 182; Burg Eltz, 175, 177, 179; Cochem, 167; Cologne, 192; Frankfurt, 79; Mosel Valley, 164; Rhine Valley, 115–116; Rothenburg, 8, 41–42; Würzburg, 55
Castle Garden (Rothenburg), 20–21; (St. Goar), 157
Castles: Beilstein’s Castle, 185; Cochem Castle, 168, 170; Ehrenfels Castle, 125; Eltz Castle, 175–181; Gutenfels Castle, 123–124; Harburg, 49; Katz Castle, 120–121; Lahneck Castle, 118–119; Liebenstein Castle, 120; Marksburg Castle, 119, 125–129; Maus Castle, 120; Pfalz Castle, 123–124; Reichenstein Castle, 125; Rheinfels Castle, 120, 153–158; Rheinstein Castle, 125, 130; Schönburg Castle, 149; Sooneck Castle, 124; Stahleck Castle, 124; Sterrenberg Castle, 120; Toppler Castle, 30; Weikersheim, 45
Cat Tower (Oberwesel): 148
Cell (mobile) phones: 214–215
Chapel of the Three Magi (Cologne): 201
Chapel of the Virgin (Cologne): 202
Chocolate: 39, 209; Imhoff Chocolate Museum (Cologne), 205–206
Christmas Headquarters (Rothenburg): 24, 27–28, 32
Christmas markets: Aachen, 210; Rothenburg, 9, 15; Würzburg, 67
Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32
Cochem: 166–175; eating, 173–175; helpful hints, 167–168; map, 169; sights/activities, 168–172; sleeping, 172–173; tourist information, 167; transportation, 167, 175
Cologne: 190–210; arrival in, 192; eating, 208–209; helpful hints, 192, 194; map, 193; orientation, 191; planning tips, 191; self-guided walk, 194–197; shopping, 197; sights/activities, 194–206; sleeping, 206–207; tourist information, 191; tours, 191, 194; transportation, 192, 209–210
Cologne Card: 192
Cologne Cathedral: 198–204; map, 199
Cologne City Hall: 197
Cologne Opera House: 197
Commerzbank (Frankfurt): 88
Consulates: 218
Convent Garden (Rothenburg): 20
Court Chapel (Würzburg): 63–64
Cowherder’s Tower (Oberwesel): 149
Credit cards: 213–214
Creglingen: 45–46
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cuisine: 216; Cologne, 208; Frankfurt, 104–105. See also Eating
Currency and exchange: 213–214
Debit cards: 213–214
Detwang: 30–31
Deutsche Bank (Frankfurt): 87
Deutsches Eck (Koblenz): 161
Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32
Dining: See Eating
Dinkelsbühl: 46–47
Dinkelsbühl City History Museum: 47
Domforum (Cologne): 203
Dynamic currency conversion: 214
Eating: 216–217; Bacharach, 141–144; Beilstein, 187–188; Cochem, 173–175; Cologne, 208–209; Frankfurt, 104–109; Rothenburg, 36–40; St. Goar, 159–160; Würzburg, 73–76
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress (Koblenz): 162
Ehrenfels Castle: 125
Eiserner Steg Bridge (Frankfurt): 94
Elbestrasse (Frankfurt): 85–86
Eltz Castle: See Burg Eltz
Embassies: 218
Emergencies: 218
English Conversation Club (Rothenburg): 40
English Theatre Frankfurt: 79
European Central Bank (Frankfurt): 89
Ferries: Mosel River, 166, 182; Rhine River, 116, 151
Festivals: 218. See also specific festivals
Festung Marienberg (Würzburg): 70–71
Fingerhut Museum (Creglingen): 46
Fischmarkt (Cologne): 196–197
Food: See Cuisine; Eating; Markets
Forum Confluentes (Koblenz): 161
Franciscan Church (Rothenburg): 21
Franconia Fountain (Würzburg): 64–65
Franconian Open-Air Museum (Bad Windsheim): 31
Frankenwerft (Cologne): 196, 208
Frankfurt: 77–111; arrival in, 79; eating, 104–109; helpful hints, 79, 82; maps, 80–81, 102–103; orientation, 78–79; planning tips, 77–78; self-guided walk, 83–94; sights/activities, 83–98; sleeping, 99–104; tourist information, 78–79; tours, 82–83; transportation, 79, 82, 109–111
Frankfurt Airport: 41–42, 110–111; sleeping, 111; tours, 83
Frankfurt Card: 78–79
Frankfurt City Model: 96–97
Frankfurt Fair: 88
Frankfurt Hahn Airport: 111, 166
Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof: 79, 83–84, 99, 109
Frankfurt Historical Museum: 92
Frankfurt Opera House: 89
Frankfurt Town Hall: 92
Fressgass’ (Frankfurt): 89–90
Friese (Rothenburg): 32–33
Funiculars (gondolas): Cochem, 170; Koblenz, 162
Galeria Kaufhof (Frankfurt): 90, 106
Gasthof Goldener Greifen (Rothenburg): 22–23
German Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32
German Order Museum (Bad Mergentheim): 44
German restaurant phrases: 222
German survival phrases: 221
Glockengasse 4 (Cologne): 197
Goethe (paddlewheeler): 115, 119
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von: 69, 90; House (Frankfurt), 94–95
Golf, in Cochem: 171
Gondolas: See Funiculars
Green Market (Rothenburg): 15
Guidebooks: Mosel Valley, 166; Rick Steves, 219
Gutenberg Museum (Mainz): 211
Gutenfels Castle: 123–124
Hahn Airport (Frankfurt): 111, 166
Harburg: 49
Hauptmarkt: See Market Square/Marktplatz
Hauptwache (Frankfurt): 90, 106–107
Heidelberg: 211
Heine, Heinrich: 92, 121, 132, 133
Heinrich Heine Viewpoint (Bacharach): 132
Helaba Bank (Frankfurt): 89
Helpful hints: 218–219
Herrgottskirche (Creglingen): 45–46
Herrngasse (Rothenburg): 14, 21–22
Hiking: Bacharach, 139; Burg Eltz, 177–178; Cochem, 170; Karden, 178; Moselkern, 177–178; Rothenburg, 28–31; St. Goar, 129, 155
Historical Town Hall Vaults (Rothenburg): 14
Hitler, Adolf: 50, 161, 190, 211
Hofkirche (Würzburg): 63–64
Hohenzollern Bridge (Cologne): 196
Hohe Strasse (Cologne): 195, 197
Holbeinsteg Bridge (Frankfurt): 98
Holidays: 218
Holocaust Memorial (Frankfurt): 95–96
Hospitalgassenturm (Oberwesel): 147
Hospital Tower (Oberwesel): 147
Hotels: See Sleeping
Imhoff Chocolate Museum (Cologne): 205–206
Imperial Chapel (Hofkirche; Würzburg): 63–64
Imperial City Museum (Rothenburg): 18–19
Jackson, Michael: 49
Jewish Cemetery (Beilstein), 185; (Frankfurt), 95–96
Jewish Ghetto (Frankfurt): 95–96
Jewish Museum (Frankfurt): 97
Jewish Synagogue (Beilstein): 183–184
Jost (Bacharach): 131
Kaiserstrasse (Frankfurt): 84–85, 107–108
Karden: 178
Käthe Kollwitz Museum (Cologne): 206
Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Headquarters (Rothenburg): 24, 27–28, 32
Katz Castle: 120–121
Katzenturm (Oberwesel): 148
Kaub: 123–124
Kiliani Volksfest (Würzburg): 55
Kleinmarkthalle (Frankfurt): 91, 107
Klingentor (Rothenburg): 18, 29
Klostergarten (Oberwesel): 150
Koblenz: 117–118, 160–162; sights/activities, 161–162
Kollwitz (Käthe) Museum (Cologne): 206
Kölner Lichter (Cologne): 194
Kolumba Diocesan Museum (Cologne): 197, 203–204
Kuhhirtenturm (Oberwesel): 149
Kulturhaus (Oberwesel): 146–147
Lahneck Castle: 118–119
Landsberg am Lech: 49–50
Language: restaurant phrases, 222; survival phrases, 221
Lichter Festival (Cologne): 194
Liebenstein Castle: 120
Lorch: 124
Loreley, the: 121–122; Visitors Center, 129
Loreley-Bob Luge Ride: 130
Ludwig Museum (Cologne): 204–205
Luge: 130
Luther, Martin: 26
Mainfränkisches Museum (Würzburg): 71
Main River: 69, 75, 78, 97; cruises, 83
Main Tower (Frankfurt): 88–89
Mainz: 211
Marienberg Fortress (Würzburg): 70–71
Marienkapelle (Würzburg): 68
Markets: Frankfurt, 91, 107; Rothenburg, 15. See also Christmas markets
Market Square/Marktplatz (Beilstein), 184–185; (Oberwesel), 146; (Rothenburg), 11, 13–14, 22–23, 26–28; (Würzburg), 67
Marksburg Castle: 119, 125–129; self-guided tour, 126–129
Markt Tower (Bacharach): 135
Maus Castle: 120
Maypoles: about, 49
Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum (Rothenburg): 26–27
Meistertrunk Show (Rothenburg): 8, 11, 13
Mesenich: 186
Metric system: 219
Metzgerei Trumpp (Rothenburg): 23
Michelfeldturm I and II (Oberwesel): 149
Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum (Rothenburg): 26–27
Mittelrhein Museum (Koblenz): 161
Mobile phones: 214–215
Money: 213–214
Moselkern: 175–179; sleeping, 181
Mosel River: 160, 163, 166, 181, 182–183; cruises, 163–164, 172, 182, 186; ferries, 166, 182; maps, 165, 176
Mosel Valley: 163–188; helpful hints, 166; maps, 165, 176; transportation, 163–164, 166. See also Beilstein; Burg Eltz; Cochem
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus: 55, 89
Museum Embankment (Frankfurt): 88, 97–98
Museum Judengasse (Frankfurt): 95–96
Museum Ludwig (Cologne): 204–205
Mustard Mill (Cochem): 171
Neugasse (Rothenburg): 24–25
Neumünster Basilica (Würzburg): 67
Niederwald Monument: 125
Night Watchman (Dinkelsbühl), 47; (Rothenburg), 10
Nördlingen: 47–48
Nördlingen City Walls: 48
Oberer Markt (Würzburg): 67
Ober Schmiedgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23
Oberstrasse (Bacharach): 131, 136–137
Oberwesel: 122–123, 145–150; self-guided walk, 146–150
Oberwesel Town Wall: 145, 147, 149
Ochsenturm (Oberwesel): 148
Old Main Bridge (Würzburg): 68–69, 75
Old Mint (Bacharach): 137
Old Nikolai Church (Frankfurt): 92
Old Town (Cologne): 191, 196–197
Old Town (Frankfurt): 93–94
Old Town (Rothenburg): 5, 26–29; eating, 36–37; map, 12; self-guided walk, 11–22; sleeping, 33–36; tours, 10
Opera: Cologne, 197; Frankfurt, 89
Oxen Tower (Oberwesel): 148
Packing list: 219
“Painters’ Corner” (Bacharach): 138
Paulskirche (Frankfurt): 91
Peace Museum (Remagen): 211
Pfalz Castle: 123–124
Phones: 214–215
Pik-Dame (Frankfurt): 86
Plönlein (Rothenburg): 24
Poltersdorf: 186
Posthof (Bacharach): 136
Prince’s Building Museum (Würzburg): 71
Prostitution: 85–86
“Raft Busters”: 124
Rail travel: See Train travel
Reichenstein Castle: 125
Reichsstadt Festival (Rothenburg): 8
Reichsstadt-Museum (Rothenburg): 18–19
Remagen: 211
Residenz (Würzburg): 58–64; orientation, 58–59; self-guided tour, 59–64
Residenz Garden (Würzburg): 64
Resources from Rick Steves: 219
Restaurants: See Eating
Rheinfels Castle: 120, 153–158; map, 154; self-guided tour, 155–158
Rhine River: 69, 113–114, 131, 133, 137–138, 139, 148, 160, 190, 196, 210; barge-watching, 122–123; best of, 117–125; cruises, 114–115, 119; ferries, 116, 151; maps, 115, 118, 210; sights along, 125–130; swimming, 139
Rhine Valley: 112–162; choosing home base, 113; maps, 115, 118; planning tips, 112–113; transportation, 114–117
Riemenschneider, Tilman: 17–18, 30–31, 45–46, 66, 68, 71
Ries Crater Museum (Nördlingen): 48
Roman-Germanic Museum (Cologne): 204
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 49, 113, 119, 145, 195
Romantic Road: 42–52; buses, 41, 50–52, 109; map, 43; sights along, 44–50
Römerberg (Frankfurt): 78, 92; eating, 106
Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne): 204
Roncalliplatz (Cologne): 194–195
Rothenburg City Territory, Map of: 14–15
Rothenburger Schneeballen: 23, 39–40
Rothenburg Historical Town Hall Vaults: 14
Rothenburg Imperial City Museum: 18–19
Rothenburg ob der Tauber: 4–42; arrival in, 8; eating, 36–40; helpful hints, 8–9; maps, 6–7, 12; orientation, 5; planning tips, 4–5; self-guided walks, 11–25; shopping, 22–24, 31–33; sights/activities, 11–31; sleeping, 33–36; tourist information, 8; tours, 10; transportation, 8, 41–42
Rothenburg Town Hall and Tower: 11, 26
Rothenburg Town Wall: 10, 20, 28–29
Rottenbuch: 50
Rüdesheim: 211
Sachsenhausen (Frankfurt): 78; eating, 105
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (Frankfurt): 92–93
St. George’s Fountain (Rothenburg): 13
St. Georg’s Cathedral (Dinkelsbühl): 46
St. Georg’s Church (Nördlingen): 48
St. Goar: 120, 129, 150–160; eating, 159–160; helpful hints, 151, 153; map, 152; shopping, 151; sights, 153–158; sleeping, 158–159; tourist information, 151
St. Goarshausen: 129
St. Jakob’s Church (Rothenburg): 15–18
St. Kilian’s Cathedral (Würzburg): 65–67
St. Martin’s Church (Oberwesel): 148–149
St. Paul’s Church (Frankfurt): 91
Sts. Peter and Paul Church (Detwang): 30–31
St. Wolfgang’s Church (Rothenburg): 29
Schaumainkai (Frankfurt): 88, 97–98
Schirn Art Center (Frankfurt): 95
Schmiedgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23
Schokoladenmuseum (Cologne): 205–206
Schönburg Castle: 149
Seilbahn Cable Car (Koblenz): 162
Senhals: 186
Senheim: 186
“Seven Maidens”: 122
Shopping: Cologne, 197; hours, 218; Rothenburg, 22–24, 31–33; St. Goar, 151. See also Christmas markets; Markets
Shrine of the Magi (Cologne): 201
Signal and River Pilots Museum: 123
Sleep code: 215
Sleeping: 215–216; Bacharach, 139–141; Beilstein, 186–187; Burg Eltz, 181; Cochem, 172–173; Cologne, 206–207; Frankfurt, 99–104; Rothenburg, 33–36; St. Goar, 158–159; Würzburg, 71–73
Smartphones: 214–215
Sooneck Castle: 125
Special events: 218. See also specific events
Spitalgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23
Spitalhof (Rothenburg): 25
Spitaltor (Rothenburg): 25, 29
Städel Museum (Frankfurt): 98
Stadtmauergarten (Oberwesel): 150
Stadtmuseum Oberwesel: 146–147
Stahleck Castle: 124
Steingassenturm (Oberwesel): 147
Sterrenberg Castle: 120
Swimming: Bacharach, 139; Cochem, 171; Rothenburg, 9
Tauber Valley: 30–31
Taxis: Burg Eltz, 175, 179; Cochem, 168; Rothenburg, 9; Würzburg, 55
Telephones: 214–215
Tennis, in Cochem: 171
Theft alerts: 218
Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista: 60–61, 62, 64
Toppler Castle: 30
Tour guides: Frankfurt, 83; Rothenburg, 10; Würzburg, 55–56
Tourist information: 219. See also specific destinations
Tourist trains: 56–57, 126, 172
Tours: Burg Eltz, 179–180; Cochem, 168; Cologne, 191; Frankfurt, 82–83; Rick Steves, 219; Rothenburg, 10; Würzburg’s Residenz, 59
Tradesman’s House (Rothenburg): 28
Train travel: 217; Bacharach, 144–145; Cochem, 167, 175; Cologne, 192, 209–210; Frankfurt, 79, 109; Mosel Valley, 163; Rhine Valley, 116–117; Rothenburg, 8, 41; Würzburg, 55, 76
Transportation: 217–218. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Train travel; and specific destinations
Travel insurance: 219
Treasury (Burg Eltz), 181; (Cologne), 203
Trechtingshausen: 130
Treis-Karden Station: 178
Upper Market Square (Würzburg): 67
Waffenkammer (Rothenburg): 23
Wallraf-Richartz Museum (Cologne): 205
Weikersheim: 45
Weindorf wine festival (Rothenburg): 8–9
Werner-Kapelle (Oberwesel): 147
West End (Frankfurt): 88–89
Wiesbaden: 211
Wieskirche: 50
Wine and vineyards: 217; Bacharach, 143–144; Beilstein, 184–185; Cochem, 167, 171; Frankfurt, 104–105; Mosel Valley, 166, 167, 171; Oberwesel, 147; Rothenburg, 8–9, 40
Wood Market Tower (Bacharach): 138
World War II: 191, 197, 200; Remagen Bridge, 211
Würzburg: 53–76; eating, 73–76; helpfül hints, 55–57; history of, 54; maps, 56–57, 65; planning tips, 53; self-guided walks, 64–71; sights, 58–71; sleeping, 71–73; tourist information, 54; transportation, 55, 57–58, 76
Würzburg City Hall: 68
Würzburg Welcome Card: 54
Zehnthauskeller (Beilstein): 184, 188
Zeil (Frankfurt): 90
Zentralplatz (Koblenz): 161