INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
R S T U
W Z    

A

Aachen: 211

Accommodations: See Sleeping

Airport: See Frankfurt Airport

Air travel, resources: 219

Alte Mainbrücke (Würzburg): 68–69, 75

Alte Nikolaikirche (Frankfurt): 92

Alte Oper (Frankfurt): 89

Alter Markt (Cologne): 197, 208

Altes Haus (Bacharach): 137, 142

Alt-Rothenburger Handwerkerhaus (Rothenburg): 28

Altstadt (Frankfurt): 93–94

Apple wine, in Frankfurt: 104–105

ATMs: 213–214

Augsburg: 49

B

Bacharach: 124, 130–145; activities, 139; eating, 141–144; helpful hints, 131–132; map, 134–135; nightlife, 144; self-guided walk, 132–138; sleeping, 139–141; tourist information, 131; transportation, 144–145

Bacharach City Towers: 137–138

Bacharach Old Town Walls: 139

Bacharach Protestant Church: 136

Bachstrasse (Beilstein): 184

Bad Mergentheim: 44

Bad Windsheim: 31

Bahnhofsvorplatz (Cologne): 194

Banking District (Frankfurt): 78, 84, 86–87

Baumeister Haus (Rothenburg): 13, 22

Beckmann, Max: 98, 204

Beer: 217; Cologne, 208

Beer gardens/halls: Cologne, 208–209; Frankfurt, 106; Rothenburg, 38–39; St. Goar, 160; Würzburg, 73–75, 76

Beethoven (Ludwig) Birthplace (Bonn): 210

Beilstein: 181–188; eating, 187–188; sights/activities, 182–186; sleeping, 186–187

Beilstein’s Castle: 185

Beilstein Synagogue: 183–184

Besucherzentrum Loreley: 129

Bettwar: 31

Beverages: See Beer; Wine and vineyards

Biking (bike rentals): Bacharach, 131–132; Beilstein, 186; Cochem, 168; Cologne, 194; Franconia, 31; Mosel Valley, 164, 166, 168; Rhine Valley, 116, 130, 131–132, 148; Rothenburg, 9, 31; St. Goar, 151, 153; Würzburg, 55

Boat travel and cruises: Cologne, 192; Frankfurt, 83; Mosel River, 163–164, 172, 182, 186; Rhine River, 114–115, 119. See also Ferries

Bonn: 190, 210

Boppard: 119–120

Bratwurst: 36, 67, 208, 216

Bratwürststand am Markt (Würzburg): 67

Braubach: 126

Burg Eltz: 175–181; boat cruises, 164; hiking, 177–179; map, 176; sleeping near, 181; transportation, 175, 177

Bürgerspital (Würzburg): 73

Burggasse (Rothenburg): 20, 22–23; eating, 40

Burg Rheinfels: 120, 153–158; map, 154; self-guided tour, 155–158

Burgtor Gate (Rothenburg): 21

Buses (bus travel): 217; Beilstein, 182; Mosel Valley, 163; Romantic Road, 41, 50–52, 109

Business hours: 218

C

Cable cars: See Funiculars

Cabs: See Taxis

Campgrounds: 133, 139, 183, 186

Carnival (Cologne): 192, 194

Car travel (driving): 217–218; Bacharach, 145; Beilstein, 182; Burg Eltz, 175, 177, 179; Cochem, 167; Cologne, 192; Frankfurt, 79; Mosel Valley, 164; Rhine Valley, 115–116; Rothenburg, 8, 41–42; Würzburg, 55

Castle Garden (Rothenburg), 20–21; (St. Goar), 157

Castles: Beilstein’s Castle, 185; Cochem Castle, 168, 170; Ehrenfels Castle, 125; Eltz Castle, 175–181; Gutenfels Castle, 123–124; Harburg, 49; Katz Castle, 120–121; Lahneck Castle, 118–119; Liebenstein Castle, 120; Marksburg Castle, 119, 125–129; Maus Castle, 120; Pfalz Castle, 123–124; Reichenstein Castle, 125; Rheinfels Castle, 120, 153–158; Rheinstein Castle, 125, 130; Schönburg Castle, 149; Sooneck Castle, 124; Stahleck Castle, 124; Sterrenberg Castle, 120; Toppler Castle, 30; Weikersheim, 45

Cat Tower (Oberwesel): 148

Cell (mobile) phones: 214–215

Chapel of the Three Magi (Cologne): 201

Chapel of the Virgin (Cologne): 202

Chocolate: 39, 209; Imhoff Chocolate Museum (Cologne), 205–206

Christmas Headquarters (Rothenburg): 24, 27–28, 32

Christmas markets: Aachen, 210; Rothenburg, 9, 15; Würzburg, 67

Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32

Cochem: 166–175; eating, 173–175; helpful hints, 167–168; map, 169; sights/activities, 168–172; sleeping, 172–173; tourist information, 167; transportation, 167, 175

Cochem Castle: 168, 170

Cologne: 190–210; arrival in, 192; eating, 208–209; helpful hints, 192, 194; map, 193; orientation, 191; planning tips, 191; self-guided walk, 194–197; shopping, 197; sights/activities, 194–206; sleeping, 206–207; tourist information, 191; tours, 191, 194; transportation, 192, 209–210

Cologne Card: 192

Cologne Cathedral: 198–204; map, 199

Cologne City Hall: 197

Cologne Opera House: 197

Commerzbank (Frankfurt): 88

Consulates: 218

Convent Garden (Rothenburg): 20

Court Chapel (Würzburg): 63–64

Cowherder’s Tower (Oberwesel): 149

Credit cards: 213–214

Creglingen: 45–46

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Cuckoo clocks: 131, 151

Cuisine: 216; Cologne, 208; Frankfurt, 104–105. See also Eating

Currency and exchange: 213–214

D

Debit cards: 213–214

Detwang: 30–31

Deutsche Bank (Frankfurt): 87

Deutsches Eck (Koblenz): 161

Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32

Dining: See Eating

Dinkelsbühl: 46–47

Dinkelsbühl City History Museum: 47

Domforum (Cologne): 203

Dürer, Albrecht: 155, 205

Dynamic currency conversion: 214

E

Eating: 216–217; Bacharach, 141–144; Beilstein, 187–188; Cochem, 173–175; Cologne, 208–209; Frankfurt, 104–109; Rothenburg, 36–40; St. Goar, 159–160; Würzburg, 73–76

Eau de Cologne: 191, 197

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress (Koblenz): 162

Ehrenfels Castle: 125

Eiserner Steg Bridge (Frankfurt): 94

Elbestrasse (Frankfurt): 85–86

Eltz Castle: See Burg Eltz

Embassies: 218

Emergencies: 218

English Conversation Club (Rothenburg): 40

English Theatre Frankfurt: 79

European Central Bank (Frankfurt): 89

F

Ferries: Mosel River, 166, 182; Rhine River, 116, 151

Festivals: 218. See also specific festivals

Festung Marienberg (Würzburg): 70–71

Fingerhut Museum (Creglingen): 46

Fischmarkt (Cologne): 196–197

Food: See Cuisine; Eating; Markets

Forum Confluentes (Koblenz): 161

Franciscan Church (Rothenburg): 21

Franconia Fountain (Würzburg): 64–65

Franconian Open-Air Museum (Bad Windsheim): 31

Frankenwerft (Cologne): 196, 208

Frankfurt: 77–111; arrival in, 79; eating, 104–109; helpful hints, 79, 82; maps, 80–81, 102–103; orientation, 78–79; planning tips, 77–78; self-guided walk, 83–94; sights/activities, 83–98; sleeping, 99–104; tourist information, 78–79; tours, 82–83; transportation, 79, 82, 109–111

Frankfurt Airport: 41–42, 110–111; sleeping, 111; tours, 83

Frankfurt Card: 78–79

Frankfurt City Model: 96–97

Frankfurt Fair: 88

Frankfurt Hahn Airport: 111, 166

Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof: 79, 83–84, 99, 109

Frankfurt Historical Museum: 92

Frankfurt Opera House: 89

Frankfurt Town Hall: 92

Fressgass’ (Frankfurt): 89–90

Friese (Rothenburg): 32–33

Funiculars (gondolas): Cochem, 170; Koblenz, 162

G

Galeria Kaufhof (Frankfurt): 90, 106

Gasthof Goldener Greifen (Rothenburg): 22–23

German Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 27–28, 32

German Order Museum (Bad Mergentheim): 44

German restaurant phrases: 222

German survival phrases: 221

Glockengasse 4 (Cologne): 197

Goethe (paddlewheeler): 115, 119

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von: 69, 90; House (Frankfurt), 94–95

Golf, in Cochem: 171

Gondolas: See Funiculars

Green Market (Rothenburg): 15

Guidebooks: Mosel Valley, 166; Rick Steves, 219

Gutenberg Museum (Mainz): 211

Gutenfels Castle: 123–124

H

Hahn Airport (Frankfurt): 111, 166

Harburg: 49

Hauptmarkt: See Market Square/Marktplatz

Hauptwache (Frankfurt): 90, 106–107

Heidelberg: 211

Heine, Heinrich: 92, 121, 132, 133

Heinrich Heine Viewpoint (Bacharach): 132

Helaba Bank (Frankfurt): 89

Helpful hints: 218–219

Herrgottskirche (Creglingen): 45–46

Herrngasse (Rothenburg): 14, 21–22

Hiking: Bacharach, 139; Burg Eltz, 177–178; Cochem, 170; Karden, 178; Moselkern, 177–178; Rothenburg, 28–31; St. Goar, 129, 155

Historical Town Hall Vaults (Rothenburg): 14

Hitler, Adolf: 50, 161, 190, 211

Hofkirche (Würzburg): 63–64

Hohenzollern Bridge (Cologne): 196

Hohe Strasse (Cologne): 195, 197

Holbeinsteg Bridge (Frankfurt): 98

Holidays: 218

Holocaust Memorial (Frankfurt): 95–96

Hospitalgassenturm (Oberwesel): 147

Hospital Tower (Oberwesel): 147

Hotels: See Sleeping

I

Imhoff Chocolate Museum (Cologne): 205–206

Imperial Chapel (Hofkirche; Würzburg): 63–64

Imperial City Museum (Rothenburg): 18–19

J

Jackson, Michael: 49

Jazz: 144, 208

Jewish Cemetery (Beilstein), 185; (Frankfurt), 95–96

Jewish Ghetto (Frankfurt): 95–96

Jewish Museum (Frankfurt): 97

Jewish Synagogue (Beilstein): 183–184

Jost (Bacharach): 131

K

Kaiserstrasse (Frankfurt): 84–85, 107–108

Karden: 178

Käthe Kollwitz Museum (Cologne): 206

Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Headquarters (Rothenburg): 24, 27–28, 32

Katz Castle: 120–121

Katzenturm (Oberwesel): 148

Kaub: 123–124

Kiliani Volksfest (Würzburg): 55

Kleinmarkthalle (Frankfurt): 91, 107

Klingentor (Rothenburg): 18, 29

Klostergarten (Oberwesel): 150

Koblenz: 117–118, 160–162; sights/activities, 161–162

Kollwitz (Käthe) Museum (Cologne): 206

Kölner Lichter (Cologne): 194

Kolumba Diocesan Museum (Cologne): 197, 203–204

Kuhhirtenturm (Oberwesel): 149

Kulturhaus (Oberwesel): 146–147

L

Lahneck Castle: 118–119

Landsberg am Lech: 49–50

Language: restaurant phrases, 222; survival phrases, 221

Lichter Festival (Cologne): 194

Liebenstein Castle: 120

Lorch: 124

Loreley, the: 121–122; Visitors Center, 129

Loreley-Bob Luge Ride: 130

Ludwig Museum (Cologne): 204–205

Luge: 130

Luther, Martin: 26

M

Mainfränkisches Museum (Würzburg): 71

Main River: 69, 75, 78, 97; cruises, 83

Main Tower (Frankfurt): 88–89

Mainz: 211

Marienberg Fortress (Würzburg): 70–71

Marienkapelle (Würzburg): 68

Markets: Frankfurt, 91, 107; Rothenburg, 15. See also Christmas markets

Market Square/Marktplatz (Beilstein), 184–185; (Oberwesel), 146; (Rothenburg), 11, 13–14, 22–23, 26–28; (Würzburg), 67

Marksburg Castle: 119, 125–129; self-guided tour, 126–129

Markt Tower (Bacharach): 135

Maus Castle: 120

Maypoles: about, 49

Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum (Rothenburg): 26–27

Meistertrunk Show (Rothenburg): 8, 11, 13

Mesenich: 186

Metric system: 219

Metzgerei Trumpp (Rothenburg): 23

Michelfeldturm I and II (Oberwesel): 149

Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum (Rothenburg): 26–27

Mittelrhein Museum (Koblenz): 161

Mobile phones: 214–215

Money: 213–214

Moselkern: 175–179; sleeping, 181

Mosel River: 160, 163, 166, 181, 182–183; cruises, 163–164, 172, 182, 186; ferries, 166, 182; maps, 165, 176

Mosel Valley: 163–188; helpful hints, 166; maps, 165, 176; transportation, 163–164, 166. See also Beilstein; Burg Eltz; Cochem

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus: 55, 89

Museum Embankment (Frankfurt): 88, 97–98

Museum Judengasse (Frankfurt): 95–96

Museum Ludwig (Cologne): 204–205

Mustard Mill (Cochem): 171

N

Neugasse (Rothenburg): 24–25

Neumünster Basilica (Würzburg): 67

Niederwald Monument: 125

Night Watchman (Dinkelsbühl), 47; (Rothenburg), 10

Nördlingen: 47–48

Nördlingen City Walls: 48

O

Oberer Markt (Würzburg): 67

Ober Schmiedgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23

Oberstrasse (Bacharach): 131, 136–137

Oberwesel: 122–123, 145–150; self-guided walk, 146–150

Oberwesel Town Wall: 145, 147, 149

Ochsenturm (Oberwesel): 148

Old Main Bridge (Würzburg): 68–69, 75

Old Mint (Bacharach): 137

Old Nikolai Church (Frankfurt): 92

Old Town (Cologne): 191, 196–197

Old Town (Frankfurt): 93–94

Old Town (Rothenburg): 5, 26–29; eating, 36–37; map, 12; self-guided walk, 11–22; sleeping, 33–36; tours, 10

Opera: Cologne, 197; Frankfurt, 89

Oxen Tower (Oberwesel): 148

P

Packing list: 219

“Painters’ Corner” (Bacharach): 138

Passports: 218, 219

Paulskirche (Frankfurt): 91

Peace Museum (Remagen): 211

Pfalz Castle: 123–124

Phones: 214–215

Pik-Dame (Frankfurt): 86

Plönlein (Rothenburg): 24

Poltersdorf: 186

Posthof (Bacharach): 136

Prince’s Building Museum (Würzburg): 71

Prostitution: 85–86

R

“Raft Busters”: 124

Railpasses: 217, 219

Rail travel: See Train travel

Reichenstein Castle: 125

Reichsstadt Festival (Rothenburg): 8

Reichsstadt-Museum (Rothenburg): 18–19

Remagen: 211

Rembrandt van Rijn: 98, 205

Residenz (Würzburg): 58–64; orientation, 58–59; self-guided tour, 59–64

Residenz Garden (Würzburg): 64

Resources from Rick Steves: 219

Restaurants: See Eating

Rheinfels Castle: 120, 153–158; map, 154; self-guided tour, 155–158

Rhein in Flammen: 128, 194

Rheinstein Castle: 125, 130

Rhine River: 69, 113–114, 131, 133, 137–138, 139, 148, 160, 190, 196, 210; barge-watching, 122–123; best of, 117–125; cruises, 114–115, 119; ferries, 116, 151; maps, 115, 118, 210; sights along, 125–130; swimming, 139

Rhine Valley: 112–162; choosing home base, 113; maps, 115, 118; planning tips, 112–113; transportation, 114–117

Riemenschneider, Tilman: 17–18, 30–31, 45–46, 66, 68, 71

Ries Crater Museum (Nördlingen): 48

Roman-Germanic Museum (Cologne): 204

Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 49, 113, 119, 145, 195

Romantic Road: 42–52; buses, 41, 50–52, 109; map, 43; sights along, 44–50

Römerberg (Frankfurt): 78, 92; eating, 106

Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne): 204

Roncalliplatz (Cologne): 194–195

Rothenburg City Territory, Map of: 14–15

Rothenburger Schneeballen: 23, 39–40

Rothenburg Historical Town Hall Vaults: 14

Rothenburg Imperial City Museum: 18–19

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: 4–42; arrival in, 8; eating, 36–40; helpful hints, 8–9; maps, 6–7, 12; orientation, 5; planning tips, 4–5; self-guided walks, 11–25; shopping, 22–24, 31–33; sights/activities, 11–31; sleeping, 33–36; tourist information, 8; tours, 10; transportation, 8, 41–42

Rothenburg Town Hall and Tower: 11, 26

Rothenburg Town Wall: 10, 20, 28–29

Rottenbuch: 50

Rüdesheim: 211

S

Sachsenhausen (Frankfurt): 78; eating, 105

St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (Frankfurt): 92–93

St. George’s Fountain (Rothenburg): 13

St. Georg’s Cathedral (Dinkelsbühl): 46

St. Georg’s Church (Nördlingen): 48

St. Goar: 120, 129, 150–160; eating, 159–160; helpful hints, 151, 153; map, 152; shopping, 151; sights, 153–158; sleeping, 158–159; tourist information, 151

St. Goarshausen: 129

St. Jakob’s Church (Rothenburg): 15–18

St. Kilian’s Cathedral (Würzburg): 65–67

St. Martin’s Church (Oberwesel): 148–149

St. Paul’s Church (Frankfurt): 91

Sts. Peter and Paul Church (Detwang): 30–31

St. Wolfgang’s Church (Rothenburg): 29

Schaumainkai (Frankfurt): 88, 97–98

Schirn Art Center (Frankfurt): 95

Schmiedgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23

Schneeballen: 23, 39–40

Schokoladenmuseum (Cologne): 205–206

Schönburg Castle: 149

Seilbahn Cable Car (Koblenz): 162

Senhals: 186

Senheim: 186

“Seven Maidens”: 122

Shopping: Cologne, 197; hours, 218; Rothenburg, 22–24, 31–33; St. Goar, 151. See also Christmas markets; Markets

Shrine of the Magi (Cologne): 201

Signal and River Pilots Museum: 123

Sleep code: 215

Sleeping: 215–216; Bacharach, 139–141; Beilstein, 186–187; Burg Eltz, 181; Cochem, 172–173; Cologne, 206–207; Frankfurt, 99–104; Rothenburg, 33–36; St. Goar, 158–159; Würzburg, 71–73

Smartphones: 214–215

Sooneck Castle: 125

Special events: 218. See also specific events

Spitalgasse (Rothenburg): 22–23

Spitalhof (Rothenburg): 25

Spitaltor (Rothenburg): 25, 29

Städel Museum (Frankfurt): 98

Stadtmauergarten (Oberwesel): 150

Stadtmuseum Oberwesel: 146–147

Stahleck Castle: 124

Steingassenturm (Oberwesel): 147

Sterrenberg Castle: 120

Swimming: Bacharach, 139; Cochem, 171; Rothenburg, 9

T

Tauber Valley: 30–31

Taxis: Burg Eltz, 175, 179; Cochem, 168; Rothenburg, 9; Würzburg, 55

Telephones: 214–215

Tennis, in Cochem: 171

Theft alerts: 218

Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista: 60–61, 62, 64

Toppler Castle: 30

Tour guides: Frankfurt, 83; Rothenburg, 10; Würzburg, 55–56

Tourist information: 219. See also specific destinations

Tourist trains: 56–57, 126, 172

Tours: Burg Eltz, 179–180; Cochem, 168; Cologne, 191; Frankfurt, 82–83; Rick Steves, 219; Rothenburg, 10; Würzburg’s Residenz, 59

Tradesman’s House (Rothenburg): 28

Train travel: 217; Bacharach, 144–145; Cochem, 167, 175; Cologne, 192, 209–210; Frankfurt, 79, 109; Mosel Valley, 163; Rhine Valley, 116–117; Rothenburg, 8, 41; Würzburg, 55, 76

Transportation: 217–218. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Train travel; and specific destinations

Travel insurance: 219

Treasury (Burg Eltz), 181; (Cologne), 203

Trechtingshausen: 130

Treis-Karden Station: 178

U

Upper Market Square (Würzburg): 67

W

Waffenkammer (Rothenburg): 23

Wallraf-Richartz Museum (Cologne): 205

Weikersheim: 45

Weindorf wine festival (Rothenburg): 8–9

Werner-Kapelle (Oberwesel): 147

West End (Frankfurt): 88–89

Wiesbaden: 211

Wieskirche: 50

Wi-Fi: 9, 214–215

Wine and vineyards: 217; Bacharach, 143–144; Beilstein, 184–185; Cochem, 167, 171; Frankfurt, 104–105; Mosel Valley, 166, 167, 171; Oberwesel, 147; Rothenburg, 8–9, 40

Wood Market Tower (Bacharach): 138

World War I: 133, 183

World War II: 191, 197, 200; Remagen Bridge, 211

Würzburg: 53–76; eating, 73–76; helpfül hints, 55–57; history of, 54; maps, 56–57, 65; planning tips, 53; self-guided walks, 64–71; sights, 58–71; sleeping, 71–73; tourist information, 54; transportation, 55, 57–58, 76

Würzburg City Hall: 68

Würzburg Welcome Card: 54

Z

Zehnthauskeller (Beilstein): 184, 188

Zeil (Frankfurt): 90

Zell: 171, 186

Zentralplatz (Koblenz): 161