Sir Joshua Reynolds RA, 1723–1792. Mrs. Robinson. 1784. Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection. B1981.25.520.
The hairstyles of the late 1780s do not change drastically from the frizzled hairstyle that came earlier in the decade. The main difference seems to be the fluctuation in the size of the curls. Crape-ing, trendy in the early 1780s, appears to fall out of fashion by the end of this decade. [1] When comparing two hairdressing manuals from either end of the 1780s, the techniques are incredibly similar—it’s just the type of curl that seems to really differentiate the styles.
In fashion and satirical prints from the late ’80s, we also see a change in the chignon or “long hair.” [2] Earlier, the chignon is braided or plainly looped up the back, but in the late 1780s, the long hair is sometimes tied simply with a ribbon or left curled and loose down the back, as seen in the print Seated Woman, Seen from Behind from the Metropolitan Museum. [3]
We cut Lauren’s hair specifically for this style to explore what effect a specialized à l’enfant haircut might have on the ease of styling and final results of this coiffure. The haircuts could be what we might consider extreme today; Plocacosmos recommended that the front of the hair be shorn to a mere ½ inch (1.2 cm) with longer layers stacked onto the cushion in a cloud of curls. [4] Lauren’s not that brave, so we cut her bangs at eyebrow level, which curled up and fluffed out nicely, if not still a little too long.
Headwear in the late ’80s was large and playful. In this chapter, we show how to re-block a simple straw hat to a fashionable late 1780s shape (here). You’ll also find quite a confection of a cap made in airy silk organza and bedecked with silk satin ribbons and bows (here). These both make wonderful toppers to your fashionable hairstyle.