Brunei Darussalam
Bandar Seri Begawan
Temburong District
Bangar
Ulu Temburong National Park
Understand Brunei Darussalam
Survival Guide
Brunei Darussalam
%673 / Pop 429,000 / Area 5765 sq km
Why Go?
The tiny sultanate of Brunei is just a remnant of a naval empire that once ruled all of Borneo and part of present-day Philippines. Nevertheless, this quiet darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’) boasts the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia.
Look beneath the surface of this well-ordered and tightly regulated sultanate and you’ll see the underlying warmth of Brunei’s people and the wisely conserved wildness of its natural environment. Thanks to the money generated by the oilfields, Brunei hasn’t turned its rainforests into oil palm plantations. Old-growth, primary forest abounds, especially in verdant Ulu Temburong National Park.
In the charming riverside capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), opulent palaces and magnificent mosques contrast with the haphazard and flimsy-looking water villages. Fringing this city’s modest extents are lush forests and mangroves, home to proboscis monkeys, hornbills and crocs.
When to Go
- Oct–Dec The rainiest, ever-so-slightly coolest, months of the year.
- Jan–May February and March are the driest months.
- Jun–Aug It’s hot. The sultan’s birthday is celebrated around the country. in July.
Top Phrases
Hello Salam/Helo
Thank you Terima kasih
How much is it? Berapa harganya?
Entering the Country
Direct flights connect various centres in Asia, Europe and Australia with Brunei International Airport. Daily buses link Sabah (KK) and Sarawak (Miri) with BSB. Ferries connect Pulau Labuan with Brunei (Seras Ferry Terminal, Muara).
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
Brunei Darussalam’s capital Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) is a quiet and rather sleepy capital when compared to other Asian cities. It’s charm lies in its friendly inhabitants, picturesque stilt-supported water villages, pristine wilderness right on its doorstep of the CBD, and its colourful and pungent seafood hawker markets.
Spending time surrounded by the bustling, buzzing, chirping rainforests of Ulu Temburong National Park is one of the highlights of a visit to Brunei Darussalam. The journey is part of the adventure. Firstly, you are whizzed along palm-lined waterways on a speedboat from BSB, then you board a temuai (shallow-draft Iban longboat) and make you way upriver, dodging hanging vines and submerged boulders, deep into Borneo’s renowned rainforest.
Essential Food & Drink
Ambuyat This gelatinous porridge-like goo made from the ground pith of the sago tree and dipped in spicy sauces is Brunei’s unofficial national dish.
Kueh Garishly coloured and fiendishly sweet local cakes are sold at markets and street stalls.
Ayam Penyet A classic Indonesian dish of fried then smashed chicken served with sambal; it is popular in Brunei.
Teh Tarik Tea and condensed milk poured into the cup from a height; a spectacle not to be missed.
Top Tips
ADress appropriately in discreet, loose-fitting clothing that covers the shoulders and knees. Avoid shorts and flip-flops unless you’re at the beach.
ABring or purchase an umbrella, because it can rain at any time.
AGet acquainted with Friday business hours – restaurants close between noon and 2pm.
APick up a local prepaid SIM for B$15.
ABring a UK-style electrical adapter.
AT A GLANCE
Currency Brunei dollar (B$), Singapore dollar (S$)
Visas 14- to 90-day visas free on arrival to most nationalities
Money ATMs easy to find in towns, except in Temburong District
Time Brunei Darussalam Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)
Police %993
Language Bahasa Malaysia, English
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | B$1.07 |
| Canada | C$1 | B$1.08 |
| Euro zone | €1 | B$1.62 |
| Japan | ¥100 | B$1.24 |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | B$0.98 |
| Singapore | S$1 | B$1.00 |
| UK | UK£1 | B$1.75 |
| USA | US$1 | B$1.35 |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Daily Costs
Dorm bed B$10–50
Food-stall meal B$1–4
Water taxi B$1–2 per trip
Museum admission: free
Resources
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/brunei-darussalam)
Brunei Tourism (www.bruneitourism.travel)
Borneo Guide (www.borneoguide.com)
Brunei Darussalam Highlights
1 Ulu Temburong National Park Climbing high into the rainforest canopy and cooling off in a jungle stream.
2 Bandar Seri Begawan Visiting a mosque, museum or shopping mall and exploring the restaurant scene.
3 Sungai Brunei Spotting proboscis monkeys and glimpsing royal palaces from a water taxi.
4 Kampong Ayer Water taxing to this charming village and learning about Brunei’s heritage.
5 Ambuyat Educating your taste buds with the culinary curiosity that is Brunei’s signature dish.
6 Sumbiling Eco Village Experiencing the culture and forests of Temburong District.
7 Diving Exploring the reefs and wrecks of unspoilt dive sites off Serasa Beach.
8 Empire Hotel & Country Club Wondering at the extravagance before cooling off in the pool.
Bandar Seri Begawan
POP 279,924
Cities built on oil money tend to be flashy ostentatious places, but with the exception of a palace you usually can’t enter, a couple of enormous mosques and one wedding cake of a hotel, Bandar (as the capital is known, or just BSB) is a very understated place. Urban life pretty much revolves around shopping malls and restaurants; there is virtually no nightlife. BSB does boast a few museums and the biggest water village in the world, a little slice of vintage that speaks to the Bruneian love of cosiness and nostalgia.
1Sights
Kampong AyerVILLAGE
Home to around 30,000 people, Kampong Ayer consists of 42 contiguous stilt villages built along the banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River). A century ago, half of Brunei’s population lived here, and even today many Bruneians still prefer the lifestyle of the water village to residency on dry land. The village has its own schools, mosques, police stations and fire brigade. To get across the river, stand somewhere a water taxi can dock and flag one down (the fare is B$1).
Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism GalleryGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; south bank, Kampong Ayer; 
h9am-5pm Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri)
F
A good place to start a visit to Kampong Ayer – and get acquainted with Brunei’s pre-oil culture – is the Cultural & Tourism Gallery, directly across the river from Sungai Kianggeh (the stream at the eastern edge of the city centre). Opened in 2009, this riverfront complex focuses on the history, lifestyle and crafts of the Kampong Ayer people. A square, glass-enclosed viewing tower offers panoramic views of the scene below.
Old Customs HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln McArthur; h9am-4.30pm Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Fri)
The waterfront building, completed in the 1950s, is now a gallery space, Galleri Seni, for temporary art exhibitions, as well as housing the Tourist Information Centre.
Omar Ali Saifuddien MosqueMOSQUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Stoney; hinterior 8.30am-noon, 1.30-3pm & 4.30-5.30pm Sat-Wed, closed Thu & Fri, exterior compound 8am-8.30pm daily except prayer times)F
Completed in 1958, Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien – named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei (the late father of the current sultan) – is surrounded by an artificial lagoon that serves as a reflecting pool. This being Brunei, the interior is pretty lavish. The floor and walls are made from the finest Italian marble, the chandeliers were crafted in England and the luxurious carpets were flown in from Saudi Arabia. A 3.5-million-piece glass mosaic overlaying real gold leaf covers the main dome.
Royal Regalia MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Sultan; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri, 9.45am-5pm Sat, last entry 4.30pm)F
When called upon to present a gift to the sultan of Brunei, you must inevitably confront the question: what do you give a man who has everything? At this entertaining museum you’ll see how heads of state have solved this conundrum (hint: you’ll never go wrong with gold and jewels). Family photos and explanatory texts offer a good overview of the life of the sultan, who is himself depicted in myriad forms (including a hologram) in a series of portraits.
Brunei Darussalam Maritime MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzium Maritim; Simpang 482, Jln Kota Batu; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri, 9.45am-5pm Sat, last entry 30min before closing; 
p; 
g39)F
A gleaming building, ship-like in both style and proportion, houses this museum opened in 2015 at Kota Batu, 5km east of the city centre (take the 39 bus). On display are some of the more than 13,000 artefacts excavated from a shipwreck discovered by divers in 1997. The ship is believed to have set sail from China sometime in the late 15th or early 16th centuries before being struck by stormy weather as it approached Brunei.
Brunei MuseumMUSEUM
(Jln Kota Batu; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri, last entry 30min before closing; p; g39)F
Brunei’s national museum, with its Islamic-art gallery, exhibits depicting Brunei’s role in Southeast Asian history from the arrival of the Spanish and Portuguese in the 1500s, and a natural-history gallery, is a decent place to blow an hour of your time. It is situated 4.5km east of central BSB along the coastal road, at Kota Batu. At research time the museum was closed for renovations.
Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah MosqueMOSQUE
(Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah Hwy, Kampung Kiarong; h8am-noon, 2-3pm & 5-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 10.45am-noon, 2-3pm & 5-6pm Sun, closed Thu & Fri; p; g1)F
Built in 1992 to celebrate the 25th year of the current sultan’s reign, Brunei’s largest mosque and its four terrazzo-tiled minarets dominate their surroundings. It’s impossible to miss as you head towards Gadong, about 3km from the city centre. It’s certainly an impressive building; because the sultan is his dynasty’s 29th ruler, the complex is adorned with 29 golden domes. At night the mosque is lit up like a gold flame.
Istana Nurul ImanPALACE
(Jln Istana Nurul Iman)
Istana Nurul Iman (Palace of the Light of Faith), the official residence of the sultan, is one of the largest habitations of any sort in the world – more than four times the size of the Palace of Versailles.
The palace is open to the public only during the three-day Hari Raya Aidil Fitri festivities at the end of Ramadan. The best way to check it out on the other 362 days of the year is to take a water-taxi cruise.
2Activities
Water-Taxi CruiseBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1hr B$30-40)
The best way to see BSB’s water villages and the sultan’s fabled palace, Istana Nurul Iman, is from a water taxi, which can be chartered along the waterfront for about B$30 to B$40 (a bit of negotiating will occur, but at least you know the locals can’t claim the petrol is expensive).
Finding a boat won’t be a problem, as the boatmen will have spotted you before you spot them. After you admire the palace’s backyard, your boatman can take you further upriver into the mangrove to see proboscis monkeys. Head out in the late afternoon if you can; the monkeys are easiest to spot around sunset.
Poni DiversDIVING
(%223 3655; www.ponidivers.com; Watersports Complex, Simpang 287, Pantai Serasa; 2 fun dives B$180; h9am-5pm)
Brunei’s largest dive centre offers a full range of PADI certification courses, recreational dives and various water sports including water skiing and banana boating. Operates from Serasa Beach, with a booking office in BSB. Also puts together dive packages including airport transfers and accommodation at the dive centre’s homestay.
A typical itinerary for fun dives includes three dives a day combining shallower reef dives with deeper wreck dives in locations chosen depending on water conditions and diving experience.
TTours
oBorneo GuideTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %718 7138, 242 6923; www.borneoguide.com; Unit 204, Kiaw Lian Building, Jln Pemancha; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun)
Excellent service, good prices and a variety of packages around Brunei and Borneo are available. A day trip to Ulu Temburong National Park costs B$135 per person from BSB. Also offers overnight trips to Temburong with accommodation at Sumbiling Eco Village just outside the park (two days and one night from B$185). The office serves as a useful tourism information centre.
4Sleeping
Budget options are thin on the ground. Upscale places often offer discounts online. For homestays in village areas contact Borneo Guide.
Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pusat Belia; %899 8852, 887 3066; Jln Sungai Kianggeh; dm B$10; 
a
W
s)
Popular with backpackers, despite the fact that couples can’t stay together. The sex-segregated accommodation includes 13 four-bed dorms for males and two four-bed dorms and two 10-bed dorms for females. Expect functional furnishings and passable bathrooms. Dorms are at the southern end of the Youth Centre complex.
Enter from Jln Sungai Kianggeh at the centre’s Kafe Belia and turn right. If the gate is locked try and enter from Jln Kampung Berangah. Reception is supposed to be open 8am to noon, 2pm to 4pm Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and 8am to 11.30am, 2.30pm to 4pm Friday. But staffing can be intermittent. If the office is locked, hang around and someone should (eventually) find you. The hostel may fill up with government guests or school groups, so call ahead to check availability. The adjacent swimming pool costs B$1.
KH Soon ResthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 2052; http://khsoon-resthouse.tripod.com; 2nd fl, 140 Jln Pemancha; dm B$18, s/d B$30/50; aW)
This basic guesthouse is one of the few hotels offering budget rates in a central location. Rooms are large but spartan. The reception-level rooms that have been renovated (either with share and attached bathrooms) are a much better bet than the old ones upstairs, which have private facilities positioned awkwardly behind low partitions or squat share toilets.
oCapital Residence SuitesHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 0067; www.capitalresidencesuites.com; Simpang 2, Kampong Berangan; d/ste incl breakfast B$80/180-280; aW)
This good-value, rather blandly decorated hotel is lifted by friendly, helpful staff and a free shuttle service from 9am to 9pm, which transports guests all around BSB city and to the beaches and attractions beyond. The spacious suites are like small apartments with sofas, a kitchen and washing machine. Standard rooms, though comfortably furnished, are a little cramped with tiny bathrooms.
oBrunei HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %224 4828; www.thebruneihotel.com; 95 Jln Pemancha; r/ste incl breakfast B$140-175/240-320; a
iW)
A chic, dare we say hip, hotel with clean lines, monochromatic colour schemes, geometric patterns and a general up-to-date style that is pretty unexpected in the sultanate. There’s a decent breakfast buffet thrown into the deal served in the downstairs Choices Cafe.
SPLURGE
Pharaonic in its proportions and opulence, the 522-room Empire Hotel & Country Club (%241 8888; www.theempirehotel.com; Lebuhraya Muara-Tutong, Jerudong; d B$250-300, ste from B$980, villas from B$2200; aiWs) was commissioned by Prince Jefri at a cost of US$1.1 billion as lodging for guests of the royal family and quickly transformed into an upscale resort. It’s worth a visit if only to gawp at the extravagance of the lobby. For B$25 you can use the seafront swimming pool complex or visit the three-screen cinema complex. The hotel is 26km northwest of BSB’s city centre. To get there take bus 57 (B$1) from central BSB, or a taxi (B$35 each way).
5Eating
In the city centre, restaurants can be found along the waterfront and on Jln Sultan (south of Jln Pemancha). The big shopping malls, including those out in Gadong, have food courts and restaurants.
oTamu SeleraHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Jln Tasek Lama & Jln Stoney; mains B$2-7; h5pm-midnight)
At this bustling, makeshift hawker centre, set in a shady park, diners eat excellent, cheap Malaysian and Indonesian dishes under colourful tarps and ceiling fans. Options include fresh seafood, satay, fried chicken – particularly ayam penyet (Indonesian fried chicken with sambal), ambuyat, rice and noodle dishes, and iced drinks. Situated 1km north of the waterfront.
oNasi Katok CornerBRUNEIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Seri Mama Express; Cnr Jln Sultan & Jln Cator; nasi katok B$1; h24hr)
Locals queue at night for cheap snack of nasi kotok – rice and meat (or tofu) plus sambal – at this tiny shopfront. Rice, sambal and piece of fried meat (or fishball or tofu) are placed in a paper cone, you hand over a dollar and off you go.
Tamu KianggehHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Kianggeh market; Jln Sungai Kianggeh; mains from B$1; h5am-5pm)
The food stalls here serve Brunei’s cheapest meals, including nasi katok (B$1) and nasi lemak (B$1). Many stalls are closed by 4pm.
oPondok Sari WangiINDONESIAN$
(%244 5403; Block A, No 12-13, Abdul Razak Complex, Jln Gadong; mains B$5-6.50; h10am-10pm; a)
Located in Gadong, Pondok Sari Wangi is a beloved Bandar institution. The extensive menu includes a variety of tasty noodle and rice dishes, stir-fries and curries. Nasi ayam bakar sari wang, grilled chicken and rice, is one of the signature dishes. It’s in a separate block, north of the Mall.
Aminah ArifBRUNEIAN$$
(%223 6198; Unit 2-3, Block B, Rahman Bldg, Simpang 88, Kiulap; mains B$5-28, set meals for two from B$22; h7am-10pm; a
v)
Aminah Arif is synonymous with ambuyat (thick, starchy porridge), Brunei’s signature dish. If you’re up for a generous serving of wiggly white goo, this is a good spot to do so. Meals can be washed down with iced kasturi ping (lime juice). There are five branches of Aminah Arif in town; this one – located in Kiulap about 3km northwest of the waterfront – is the most central.
GETTING TO MALAYSIA
BSB to Miri
Getting to the border Two buses a day link BSB with Miri (B$20 from BSB, RM50 from Miri, 3½ hours). Tickets are sold on-board.
At the border Most travellers to Malaysia are granted a 30- or 60-day visa on arrival.
Moving on The bus will leave you at Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal, a 4km taxi ride from the city centre.
BSB to Pulau Labuan & Kota Kinabalu
Getting to the border Travelling by sea to Sabah is the easiest option, avoiding the hassles and delays of land borders. There are five ferries (adult/child/car B$17/10/58, 1½ hours) each day departing from Serasa Ferry Terminal in Muara, about 25km northeast of BSB, to Pulau Labuan. At 8am daily a bus runs to Kota Kinabalu (B$45, eight to nine hours) via Limbang, Bangar, Lawas and various towns in Sabah and stopping at eight passport checkpoints.
At the border Most travellers to Malaysia are granted a 30- or 60-day visa on arrival.
Moving on From Pulau Labuan, twice-daily ferries go to Kota Kinabalu (RM40, 3hr).
For more details see here. To make this crossing in reverse see here.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The sale and public consumption of alcohol is banned and nightlife is virtually unknown. Cafes are on the rise and decent espresso is readily available. Locals are fond of the soft drink air batu campur (ice mix), usually called ABC, which includes ice, little green noodles, grass jelly, sago pearls and red beans.
Piccolo CaféCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %224 1558; Lot 11, Jln McArthur; coffee RM3-450, sandwiches RM3.50-6.90; h7.30am-11pm Mon-Wed, 7.30am-1am Thu-Sat, 9.30am-11pm Sun; W)
This cafe serves up lavender lattes (an original, if not completely delicious, drink) as well as more conventional coffees, teas and smoothies and a range of sandwiches, wraps, waffles and cakes, including an extremely tasty sea-salt chocolate tart (B$3.20).
AnotherCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 3012; G8, ground fl, Wisma Jaya, Jln Pemancha; coffee B$4.50-6, cakes B$5; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat; W)
Corrugated metal walls, polished concrete floors and a wooden counter lend an industrial feel to this small, urban cafe. Coffee lovers (even the fussy ones) should be more than satisfied by the aromatic brews served here, and there is a tempting selection of pastries, cakes (chocolate brownies and Dutch apple pie) and sandwiches.
7Shopping
The MallSHOPPING CENTRE
(Gadong; h10am-10pm)
Sure, BSB’s much-touted shopping mall is sleek, and the ceiling mural of a Royal Brunei airlines plane careering across the sky is an interesting touch. Here you’ll find a collection of local and international-brand outlets, a useful supermarket, an inexpensive food court and an eight-screen cineplex (%242 2455; www.themallcineplex.com; 3rd fl, The Mall, Gadong; adult B$4-10, child B$3-6; h11am-midnight), the most popular cinema in Brunei!
Hua Ho Department StoreDEPARTMENT STORE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Yayasan Complex, Jln McArthur; h10am-10pm)
A four-floor department store with a decent supermarket on the basement level.
8Information
Banks and international ATMs are sprinkled around the city centre, especially along Jln McArthur and Jln Sultan. The airport also has ATMs.
Brunei Tourism (%220 0874; www.bruneitourism.travel; Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery; h9am-12.15pm & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Fri) Free maps, brochures and information about Brunei. The website has oodles of useful information.
Isman Money Changer (Shop G14, ground fl, Block B, Yayasan Complex, Jln Pretty; h10am-8pm) Changes major currencies. Just off the central atrium.
Main Post Office (cnr Jln Sultan & Jln Elizabeth Dua; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8-11am & 2-4pm Fri) The Stamp Gallery displays some historic first-day covers and enlargements of colonial-era stamps.
Paul & Elizabeth Cyber Cafe (MAP GOOGLE MAP; G7, ground fl, Teck Guan Plaza, 56-60 Jln Sultan; per hr B$1.50; h8.30am-8.30pm) Old-style cybercafe with decent connections.
RIPAS Hospital (%224 2424; www.moh.gov.bn; Jln Putera Al-Muhtadee Billah; h24hr) Brunei’s main hospital, with fully equipped, modern facilities. Situated about 2km west of the centre (across the Edinburgh Bridge).
Tourist Information Centre (Pusat Maklumat Pelacong; www.tourismbrunei.com; Old Customs House, Jln McArthur; h9am-4.30pm Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Fri) Has free maps, suggested walking tours and lists of accommodation providers as well as bus and ferry information.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The airport, about 8km north of central BSB, is linked to the city centre, including the bus terminal on Jln Cator, by buses 23, 36 and 38 (B$1) until about 5.30pm. A taxi to/from the airport costs B$25; pay at the taxi counter. Some hotels offer airport pick-up.
BUS
Brunei’s limited public bus system, run by a variety of companies, is somewhat erratic, at least to the uninitiated, so getting around by public transport takes effort. Buses (B$1) operate daily from 6.30am to about 6pm; after that, your options are taking a cab or hoofing it. If you’re heading out of town and will need to catch a bus back, ask the driver if and when he’s coming back and what time the last bus back is.
Finding stops can be a challenge – some are marked by black-and-white-striped uprights or a shelter, others by a yellow triangle painted on the pavement, and yet others by no discernible symbol. Fortunately, numbers are prominently displayed on each 20- or 40-passenger bus.
The bus station lacks an information office or a ticket counter, though there is a schematic route map which, while it’s hard to decipher, explains what buses (routes are numbered) go where. It may be best to ask about transport options at your hotel before heading to the bus station.
CAR
Hiring a car is a good way to explore Brunei’s hinterland. Prices start at about B$85 a day. Surcharges may apply if the car is taken into Sarawak. Most agencies will bring the car to your hotel and pick it up when you’ve finished, and drivers can also be arranged, though this could add B$100 to the daily cost.
Avis (%222 7100; www.avis.com; Radisson Hotel, Jln Tasek Lama 2203; h8am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon & 2-5pm Fri, 8am-noon & 1.30-4pm Sat, 9am-noon & 1.30-3pm Sun) Also has an office at the airport (%233 3298; Arrival Hall, Brunei International Airport; h8.30am-5.30pm).
Hertz (%airport 872 6000; www.hertz.com; Arrival Hall, Brunei International Airport; h8am-5pm) The international car-rental company has a counter at Brunei airport.
TAXI
Taxis are a convenient way of exploring BSB – if you can find one, that is, as there are about 50 in the country. There is no centralised taxi dispatcher, and it’s difficult or impossible to flag down a taxi on the street. Hotels can provide drivers’ mobile-phone numbers. Most taxis have yellow tops; a few serving the airport are all white. BSB’s only proper taxi rank (Jln Cator) is two blocks north of the waterfront at the bus terminal on Jln Cator. Some taxis use meters, although many drivers will just try to negotiate a fare with you. Fares go up by 50% after 10pm; the charge for an hour of wait time is B$30 to B$35. Sample day-time taxi fares from the city centre include the Brunei Museum (B$25), Gadong (B$15), the airport (B$20-25), the Serasa Ferry Terminal in Muara (B$40), the Empire Hotel & Country Club (B$35) and the Jerudong Park Playground (B$35).
WATER TAXI
If your destination is near the river, water taxis – the same little motorboats that ferry people to and from Kampung Ayer – are a good way of getting there. You can hail a water taxi anywhere on the waterfront a boat can dock, as well as along Venice-esque Sungai Kianggeh. Crossing straight across the river is supposed to cost B$1 per person; diagonal crossings cost more.
Temburong District
POP 10,500
Brunei’s 1288-sq-km Temburong District is physically separated from the rest of the nation by Sarawak’s Limbang division, and happens to contain one of the best preserved tracts of primary rainforest in all of Borneo. The main draw is the brilliant Ulu Temburong National Park.
Bangar
POP 4000
Bangar, perched on the banks of Sungai Temburong, is the gateway to, and administrative centre of, Temburong District. It can be visited as a day trip from BSB if you catch an early speedboat, but most visitors are here to explore the rainforests upriver.
4Sleeping & Eating
Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(Pusat Belia; %522 1694; Jln Bangar Puni-Ujong, Bangar; dm B$10; hoffice staffed 7.30am-4.30pm, closed Fri & Sat; a)
This basic hostel is in a bright-orange building across the road (walk under the road bridge) about 50m from the Bangar ferry terminal. The sex-segregated dorms, each with six beds (bunks), are clean and have air-con. The office is upstairs.
Stoneville HotelHOTEL$$
(%522 2252; stonevillehotel@yahoo.com; 1532 Kampong Sungai Tanam; r from B$78; aW)
Bangar’s first (and only) hotel is a modern if modest establishment with simple, clean, comfortable rooms with TVs and cable channels. In the lobby the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is about 500m northwest of the ferry terminal, along the road running parallel to the river’s west bank.
RR Max CafeMALAYSIAN$
(Bangar; mains B$1-3; h7.30am-8pm)
This cafe north of the jetty has inexpensive meals, such as nasi katok (B$1) and egg (B$1.80) or tuna (B$2.50) sandwiches and fresh fruit juice (B$3.50). Also the owners are very helpful with travellers new to Bangar.
8Information
3 in 1 Services (Shop A1-3, 1st fl, Kompleks Utami Bumiputera; per hr B$1; h8am-5.30pm, closed Sun) Internet access on the 1st floor of the Kompleks Utami Bumiputera building.
Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam (h8.45am-3.45pm Mon-Thu, 8.45-11am & 2.30-4pm Fri, 8.45-11.15am Sat) The only bank in town has two ATMs and they accept foreign cards. Non-account holders cannot change money. On the west bank of the river 150m north of the bridge.
Chop Hock Guan Minimarket (h8am-8pm) Exchanges Malaysian ringgits for Brunei dollars. In the second row of shops northwest of Bangar ferry terminal.
8Getting There & Away
By far the fastest way to and from BSB is by speedboat (B$7, 45 minutes, hourly from 6.15am to at least 5pm). Bangar’s ferry terminal, Terminal Perahu Dan Penumpang, is on the western bank of the river just south of the road bridge.
Boats depart at a scheduled time or when they’re full, whichever comes first. When you get to the ticket counters, check which company’s boat will be the next to leave and then pay and add your name and passport number to the passenger list.
Buses run by Jesselton (%719 3835, 717 7755, in BSB 718 3838) pick up passengers heading towards Limbang and BSB (B$10, 2 hours) in the early afternoon; its bus to KK (B$25, 6 hours) via Lawas (B$10, 3 hours) passes through town at about 10am (can be up to an hour late). Buses stop on Jln Labu, just across the bridge on the west side of the river beside the produce market.
Ulu Temburong National Park
Ulu Temburong National Park, located in the heart of a 500-sq-km area of pristine rainforest covering most of southern Temburong, is a highlight of a visit to Brunei. It’s odd that a small country such as Brunei should contain a sizable chunk of true untamed wilderness. Only about 1 sq km of the park is accessible to tourists, who are only admitted as part of guided-tour packages. To protect it, the rest is off-limits to everyone except scientists, who flock here from around the world. Permitted activities include a canopy walk, some short jungle walks, and swimming in the cool mountain waters of Sungai Temburong.
TTours
For all intents and purposes, the only way to visit the park is by booking a tour; several BSB-based agencies organise tours and guides.
4Sleeping
oSumbiling Eco VillageCABIN$$
(%718 7138, 242 6923; www.borneoguide.com/ecovillage; Kampong Sumbiling Lama, Jln Batang Duri; per person day trips from US$105, 2-day, 1-night incl meals & guided hikes from US$138) 
S
If you’re looking for Brunei’s version of a jungle camp with basic amenities and a chilled-out atmosphere that encourages slipping into a state of utterly relaxed Zen, come to Sumbiling. This eco-friendly rustic camp in a beautiful riverside location offers tasty Iban cuisine and accommodation in bamboo huts or tents, which have beds, mosquito nets and fans.
SPLURGE
The only accommodation inside Ulu Ulu Resort (%244 1791; www.uluuluresort.com; Ulu Temburong National Park; per person 2-day, 1-night incl meals standard/superior/deluxe from B$275/360/395; a) is an upscale riverside lodge, constructed entirely of hardwood, with some rooms built to resemble 1920s Malaysian-style chalets. Standard rooms are dormitory style with shared bathrooms. Prices include transfers from Bangar, meals and activities.
Guests at the resort have a 4.30am wake-up call to see the sunrise at the canopy walk, an unforgettable experience.
Understand Brunei Darussalam
Brunei Darussalam Today
The implementation of the first of a three-phase process of the introduction of sharia law in Brunei made global headlines in 2014, but a few years later it has made minimal impact on life in the quiet, law-abiding sultanate. The new penal code applies to both Muslims and non-Muslims.
Brunei’s oil and gas wealth affords its citizens one of the highest standards of living in Asia, with a GDP per capita of US$71,000. Literacy stands at 96%, average life expectancy is 79 years, and generous state benefits include free healthcare and education, cheap loans and subsidised housing. It’s not surprising that most Bruneians, happy with their lot, prefer not to ponder the question of what will happen when the oil runs out (recent reports suggest that at current rates of extraction it will last only another 20 years).
History
The earliest recorded references to Brunei concern China’s trading connections with ‘Pu-ni’ in the 6th century. Prior to the region’s embrace of Islam in the 1400s, Brunei was within the boundaries of the Sumatran Srivijaya empire, then the Majapahit empire of Java. By the late 15th and early 16th centuries, the so-called Golden Age of Sultan Bolkiah (the fifth sultan), Brunei had become a considerable regional power, with its sea-faring rule extending throughout Borneo and deep into the Philippines.
The Spanish and Portuguese arrived in the 16th century and at times confronted the sultanate with force, though in the long term the European powers’ disruption of traditional patterns of trade proved more damaging. In the mid- and late 19th century, internal divisions and the policies of Sarawak’s first White Rajah, a British adventurer named James Brooke, led to a series of treaties ceding land and power. To save itself, Brunei became a British protectorate in 1888. Despite this, two years later Limbang was lost to Sarawak, dividing the sultanate into two parts.
In 1929 oil was discovered, turning the tiny state into an economic power overnight. The present sultan’s father, Sultan Omar Saifuddien, kept Brunei out of both the Federation of Malaya and Malaysia, preferring that his country remain a British protectorate – and that oil revenues stay on home soil.
Saifuddien abdicated in 1967, leaving the throne to his popular son and heir, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. In 1984 he reluctantly led his tightly ruled country to complete independence from Britain and later adopted a national ideology known as Melayu Islam Beraja (MIB; Malay Islamic Monarchy), which stresses Malay culture, Islam (the official religion) and the legitimacy of the sultan.
People & Culture
Ethnic Malays make up two-thirds of the sultanate’s 429,000 inhabitants, people of Chinese heritage account for 10%, and Iban, Kelabit and other Dayak groups constitute around 3.4%. Temporary workers make up the rest. The state religion is Islam.
Traditional crafts have almost disappeared in modern Brunei. In its heyday, Brunei produced brassware – gongs, kettles, betel containers and, most famously, ceremonial cannons – that was prized throughout Borneo and beyond. Jong sarat sarongs, handwoven using gold thread, are still worn at formal ceremonial occasions.
Survival Guide
8Directory A–Z
ACCOMMODATION
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
$ less than B$60
$$ B$60–150
$$$ more than B$150
ELECTRICITY
Brunei uses 240V, 50Hz AC electricity; power outlets have three flat sockets (UK style).
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Australian High Commission (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 9435; Level 6, Dar Takaful IBB Utama, Jln Pemancha; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri)
British High Commission (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 2231; Unit 2.01, 2nd fl, Block D, Yayasan Complex, Jln Pretty; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri)
Canadian High Commission (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 0043; www.brunei.gc.ca; 5th fl, Jalan McArthur Bldg, 1 Jln McArthur; h8am-4.45pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12.30pm Fri)
French Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 0961; www.ambafrance-bn.org; 51-55, 3rd fl, Kompleks Jalan Sultan, Jln Sultan; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)
German Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 5547; www.bandar-seri-begawan.diplo.de; Unit 2.01, 2nd fl, Block A, Yayasan Complex, Jln Pretty; h8.15am-12.30pm & 1.15-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.15am-12.15pm & 1-3pm Fri)
Malaysian Embassy (%238 1095-7; www.kln.gov.my/web/brn_begawan; No 61, Simpang 336, Jln Kebangsaan; h9am-noon & 3-4pm Mon-Fri)
New Zealand Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %222 5880/2422; www.mfat.govt.nz; c/o Deloitte & Touche, 5th fl, Wisma Hajjah Fatimah, 22-23 Jln Sultan; h7.45am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 7.45am-4.30pm Sat)
Singapore High Commission (%226 2741; www.mfa.gov.sg/brunei; No 8, Simpang 74, Jln Subok; h9am-noon & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)
US Embassy (%238 4616; http://brunei.usembassy.gov; Simpang 336-52-16-9, Jln Duta; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri)
INTERNET ACCESS
Wi-fi is available at virtually all top-end and midrange hotels and most budget hotels. Western-style cafes in BSB also offer wi-fi.
LEGAL MATTERS
In May 2014, Brunei began phasing in a new criminal code based on sharia law. Offences in this first phase are punishable with a fine, imprisonment or both. Subsequent phases will introduce more severe penalties including corporal and capital punishments. As the laws could be applied to non-Muslims, ensure you’re on the right side of them.
The sale and public consumption of alcohol is forbidden in Brunei. Drug trafficking is punishable by the death penalty.
FOOD PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to the cost of the cheapest non-vegetarian main dish on the menu.
$ less than B$6
$$ B$6–16
$$$ more than B$16
LGBT TRAVELLERS
Homosexual activity is illegal in Brunei.
MEDIA
The Borneo Bulletin (www.borneobulletin.com.bn) covers local and international news, none of it controversial.
MONEY
ATMs are widely available in BSB and larger towns. Credit cards are usually accepted at top-end establishments.
OPENING HOURS
On Fridays all businesses and offices – including restaurants, cafes, museums, shops and even parks – are closed by law between noon and 2pm for Friday prayers. During Ramadan, business and office hours are often shortened and restaurants are closed during daylight hours.
Banks 9am–4pm Monday to Thursday, 9am-noon and 2–4pm Friday, 9am–11am Saturday
Restaurants Variable hours, generally 11am–11pm Saturday to Thursday, 11am–noon and 2–11pm Friday
Cafes Variable hours, generally 8am–6pm Saturday to Thursday, 8am–noon and 2–6pm Friday
Shops 10am–9.30pm Saturday to Thursday, 10–noon and 2–9.30pm Friday
Government offices 7.45am–12.15pm and 1.30pm–4.30pm Monday to Thursday, Saturday.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
The dates of Muslim holidays follow lunar calendars and so vary relative to the Gregorian (Western) calendar. Muslim holidays fall 11 or 12 days earlier each year; their final dates are determined by the sighting of the moon and therefore may vary slightly relative to the dates below. The dates we give for some other religious holidays are also approximate. For details on public and religious holidays (as well as cultural events), see the events calendars posted by Brunei Tourism (www.tourismbrunei.com). Some of the holidays include:
New Year’s Day 1 January
Chinese New Year 5 February 2019, 25 January 2020
Brunei National Day 23 February
First Day of Ramadan 6 May 2019, 23 April 2020
Royal Brunei Armed Forces Day 31 May
Hari Raya Aidil Fitri (End of Ramadan); three-day holiday begins 4 June 2019, 24 May 2020
Islamic New Year 31 August 2019, 19 August 2020
Christmas Day 25 December
TELEPHONE
Prepaid SIM cards (B$15, including B$5 credit) are available at DST (www.dst.com.bn) stores. Bring your passport.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Borneo Guide Private tour company in BSB can supply up-to-date information including land transport to Miri (Sarawak) and Sabah.
Brunei Tourism A useful website, containing information on transport, business hours, accommodation, tour agencies and more.
Tourist information (h9am-5pm) Counter on the ground floor at Brunei International Airport.
Tourist Information Centre In the Old Customs House on BSB’s waterfront.
VISAS
Travellers from the US and European Union, Switzerland and Norway are granted a 90-day visa-free stay; travellers from New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and Malaysia, among others, receive 30 days; Japanese and Canadians get 14 free days. Chinese can apply for a 14-day single-entry visa (B$20). Australians can apply for the following visas upon arrival: a 72-hour transit (B$5), a 30-day single-entry (B$20) or a multiple-entry (B$30).
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Discreet clothing is appropriate here – you don’t have to cover your hair, but walking around in a tank top is a bad idea. Loose fitting clothes that cover the shoulders and knees are best, especially when visiting any kind of official or religious building.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
There are international flights to Malaysia, the Philippines, Thailand, Australia and Singapore.
Brunei International Airport (%233 1747; www.civil-aviation.gov.bn), about 8km north of central BSB, has an ATM and a tourist information kiosk (here) in the arrivals hall.
AirAsia (www.airasia.com) has two flights a day to Kuala Lumpur.
Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) has flights from BSB to Manila on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Malaysia Airlines (%233 2655; www.malaysiaairlines.com; 2nd level Departure Hall, Brunei International Airport; h9am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9.30am–noon Sat) flights are operated by Royal Brunei Airlines.
Royal Brunei Airlines (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %221 2222; www.flyroyalbrunei.com; RBA Plaza, Jln Sultan; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 2-4pm Fri) has direct flights from BSB to destinations including Bangkok, Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne and Singapore.
Singapore Airlines (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %224 4901; www.singaporeair.com; 38 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien, Bandar Seri Begawan) has five flights a week from BSB to Singapore.
BOAT
Passenger ferries depart from the Serasa Ferry Terminal in Muara, about 20km northeast of BSB, to Pulau Labuan (adult/child B$17/10, 1½ hours) at 8am, 8.30am, 9am (car ferry), 1pm and 4.30pm. Moving on to Sabah, there are two ferries a day from Labuan to Kota Kinabalu (RM40, three hours).
PHLS run an express service from BSB bus station to the Serasa Ferry Terminal departing at 6.45am, 9am, noon, 2pm, 4.15pm and 7pm.
BUS
At 8am daily a Jesselton Express (MAP GOOGLE MAP %016-830 0722, www.sipitangexpress.com.my) bus runs to Kota Kinabalu (B$45, eight to nine hours) via Limbang, Bangar, Lawas and various towns in Sabah. In the other direction, the bus leaves Kota Kinabalu’s Jalan Tugu Bus Station at 8am. Reservations can be made at www.busonlineticket.com. Make sure your passport has plenty of unstamped pages; the trip will add eight new stamps.
Twice a day PHLS Express (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %277 1668) links BSB with Miri (B$20 from BSB, RM50 from Miri, 3½ hours). Departures from BSB’s waterfront are at 7am and 1pm and from Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal at 8.15am and 3.45pm. Tickets are sold on-board.
Another option for travel between BSB and Miri is a private transfer (which may be shared with other travellers) run by Ah Pau (B$25/100 or RM70/300 per person/car, three hours). Call Ah Pau on %016-8072893 (Malaysian mobile) or 866 8109 (Brunei mobile). Departures from BSB are usually at 1pm or 2pm; departures from Miri are generally at 9am or 10am but may be earlier.