MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SARAWAK
Sarawak makes access to Borneo’s natural wonders and cultural riches a breeze. From Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, pristine rainforests – where you can spot orangutans, proboscis monkeys and the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia – can be visited on day trips, with plenty of time in the evening for a delicious meal and a drink in a chic bar. Adventurous travellers can take a ‘flying coffin’ riverboat up the Batang Rejang, ‘the Amazon of Borneo’, on your way to visit the spectacular caves and extraordinary rock formations of Gunung Mulu National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Kuching
%082 / Pop 618,000
Sarawak’s sophisticated capital brings together a kaleidoscope of cultures, crafts and cuisines. The bustling streets - some wide and modern, others narrow alleys lined with carpenter shops, cafes and bars - reward visitors with a penchant for exploring on foot. Attractions include time-capsule museums, Chinese temples decorated with dragons, a weekend market, shophouses from the time of the White Rajahs, and that postcard riverfront esplanade that draws people out for a warm evening stroll and a delicious meal.
Kuching’s proximity to several first-rate national parks makes it the perfect base for day trips to wild coastal and rainforest destinations.
Kuching
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
8Information
8Transport
1Sights
oEthnology MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museum.sarawak.gov.my; Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg; 
h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays) 
F
At the top of the hill, on the eastern side of Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg, the Ethnology Museum (the Old Building) – guarded by two colonial cannons – spotlights Borneo’s incredibly rich indigenous cultures. Upstairs the superb exhibits include an Iban longhouse, masks and spears; downstairs is an old-fashioned natural-history museum.
oArt MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museum.sarawak.gov.my; Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays) F
This museum features an exhibit called Urang Sarawak, which deftly and succinctly describes the people and culture of Sarawak, especially indigenous lifestyles and traditional mythology, historical periods such as the Brooke era and World War II, as well as contemporary Sarawak. Other exhibits feature prehistoric archaeology including important finds from the Niah Caves, and Chinese ceramics.
Chinese History MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; opp cnr Main Bazaar & Jln Temple; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays) F
Housed in the century-old Chinese Court building, the Chinese History Museum provides an excellent introduction to the nine major Chinese communities – each with its own dialect, cuisine and temples – who began settling in Sarawak around 1830. Highlights include ceramics, musical instruments, historic photographs and some fearsome dragon- and lion-dance costumes. The entrance is on the river side of the building.
Fort MargheritaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; The Brooke Gallery; Kampung Boyan; adult/child RM20/10; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Built by Charles Brooke in 1879 and named after his wife, Ranee Margaret, this hilltop fortress long protected Kuching against surprise attack by pirates. Inside, the Brooke Gallery illustrates the remarkable story of the White Rajahs of Sarawak with fascinating artefacts and story boards. You can explore the ramparts, inspect the cells and see where executions took place.
To get here take a tambang (wooden boat; RM1) from the waterfront promenade to Kampung Boyan and then follow the signs up through the abandoned and derelict school for 500m.
TTours
Borneo ExperiencesTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-429239; www.borneoexperiences.com; ground fl, No. 1 Jln Temple; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, may also open Sun)
Singgahsana Lodge’s travel agency. Destinations include a remote Bidayuh ‘village in the clouds’ and an Iban longhouse in the Batang Ai area (three days/two nights RM1450, minimum two guests). Also offers cycling tours. Gets excellent reviews.
Adventure Alternative BorneoADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-248000, 019-892 9627; www.adventureaalternativeborneo.com; Lot 37 Jln Tabuan; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) 
S
Offers ethical and sustainable trips that combine ‘culture, nature and adventure’. Can help you design and coordinate an itinerary for independent travel to remote areas, including the Penan villages of the Upper Baram.
4Sleeping
oSinggahsana LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-429277; www.singgahsana.com; 1 Jln Temple; dm/d incl breakfast RM35/RM113-158; 
a
i
W)
Setting the Kuching standard for backpacker digs, this hugely popular guesthouse, decked out with stylish Sarawakian crafts, has an unbeatable location, a great chill-out lobby and a sociable rooftop bar. Free bicycle hire is available to room guests. Dorms have 10 beds and lockers.
Threehouse B&BGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-423499; www.threehousebnb.com; 51 Jln China; incl breakfast dm RM22, d without bathroom RM65-70; W)
A spotless, family-friendly guesthouse in a great Old Chinatown location that is warm and welcoming – everything a guesthouse should be. All nine rooms are spaced over three creaky wooden floors and share a bright-red colour scheme. Amenities include a common room with TV, DVDs and books, a laundry service and a kitchen.
RadiomanHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-238801, 082-248816; 1 Jln Wayang; incl breakfast dm RM20, d without bathrooms RM60; aW)
This centrally located, self-styled ‘heritage hostel’ occupies a century-old shophouse that was once used for radio repairs. The building still has the original ceilings, floors and fiendishly steep stairs and it has been thoughtfully decorated. As well as a 12-bed mixed dorm there is a 4-bed women’s dorm. Dorms and private rooms share a shower and toilet.
Marco Polo’sGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-246679, Samuel Tan 019-888 8505; www.marcopolokuching.com; 1st fl, 236 Jln Padungan; incl breakfast dm RM27, d without bathrooms RM58-62; aW)
A well-run, comfortable place with a breezy verandah and cosy indoor living room. The breakfast of fresh fruit, banana fritters and muffins is a popular bonus. Only some rooms have windows. Owner Sam is happy to give travel advice and sometimes takes guests to the market. Situated about 15 minutes’ walk (1.5km) from the waterfront.
BedsGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-424229; www.bedsguesthouse.com; 229 Jln Padungan; dm RM22, s/d without bathroom RM45/58; aiW)
This guesthouse has attracted a loyal following thanks to comfy couches in the lobby, a well-equipped kitchen you can cook in and 12 spotless rooms, nine with windows. Dorm rooms have six metal bunks of generous proportions. Located in New Chinatown, about 15 minutes’ walk (1.5km) from the Main Bazaar.
Le NomadeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-237831; www.lenomadehostel.com; 3 Jln Green Hill; dm incl breakfast 8-bed/4-bed RM25/28, s/d with shared bathroom RM35/70, d with bathroom RM75; aiW)
There’s a buzzing backpacker vibe at this relaxed, Iban-run place – guests often hang out in the lounge area with the friendly management. Breakfast times are flexible to suit late risers and there is a kitchen that guests can use. Of the 12 rooms, most have windows (the others make do with exhaust fans).
oThe MarianBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-252777; www.themarian.com.my; Jln Wayang; incl breakfast dm RM80, d from RM290; aiW
s)
Delightfully different, the Marian is a converted mansion once owned by a Chinese merchant before it became a convent attached to nearby St Thomas’s Cathedral. Great care has been taken to preserve the old building’s long and varied historical legacy while providing modern comforts. The 40 rooms are divided into eight categories, reflecting the highly individual nature of the design.
Batik Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-422845; www.batikboutiquehotel.com; 38 Jln Padungan; d incl breakfast RM280; aW)
A superb location, classy design and superfriendly staff make this a top midrange choice. The swirling batik design used on the hotel’s facade is continued in the lobby and the 15 spacious, colour-coordinated rooms. On the ground floor you’ll find the restaurant featuring Scandinavian cuisine, plus a bar that is handy to the comfy outdoor courtyard at the back.
Lime Tree HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-414600; www.limetreehotel.com.my; Lot 317, Jln Abell; d incl breakfast RM158-278; aiW)
Dashes of lime green – a pillow, a bar of soap, a staff member’s tie, the lobby’s Cafe Sublime – accent every room of this well-run boutique hotel. The family who owns it also owns a lime orchard. The 50 nonsmoking rooms are sleek and minimalist. The rooftop bar has river views and a good selection of meals including vegan and vegetarian options.
5Eating
Kuching is the ideal place to explore the entire range of Sarawak-style cooking. You can pick and choose from a variety of Chinese and Malay hawker stalls, while Jln Padungan is home to some of the city’s best noodle houses. The question of where to find the city’s best laksa is sure to spark a heated debate. The only way to get a definitive answer is to try them all yourself.
oFig Tree CafeMALAYSIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %017-818 6636; 29 Jln Wayang; mains RM6-10; h10.30am-8.30pm, closed Mon; a
v)
This innovative cafe features Malay-Chinese dishes served with flair and enthusiasm. There are plenty of vegetarian choices, and vegan options are available. The adventurous should try the lui cha, rice and vegetables accompanied by a deep-green soup of Sarawak herbs. Carnivores can opt for the kacangma, rice wine chicken. Also available: waffles, smoothies and a glowing green-tea cheesecake.
oChoon HuiMALAYSIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-893709; 34 Jln Ban Hock; laksa RM6-10; h7-11am Tue-Sun)
This old-school kopitiam (coffee shop) gets our vote for the most delicious laksa in town, and we’re not alone – the place can get crowded, especially at weekends. There is also a stall here selling excellent popiah, a kind of spring roll made with peanuts, radish and carrot (RM3).
Kim Food CourtBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Padungan, New Chinatown; tarts RM2.20; h7am-9pm)
Egg tarts are the speciality here. Delicious egg tarts with the flakiest of bases are available as traditional, pandan-flavoured, coconut-flavoured, or Portuguese style.
Open-Air MarketHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tower Market; Jln Khoo Hun Yeang; mains RM3-8; hmost stalls 6am-4pm, Chinese seafood 3pm-4am)
Cheap, tasty dishes to look for include laksa, Chinese-style mee sapi (beef noodle soup), red kolo mee (noodles with pork and a sweet barbecue sauce), tomato kueh tiaw (a fried rice-noodle dish) and shaved-ice desserts (ask for ‘ABC’ at stall 17). The Chinese seafood stalls that open in the afternoon are on the side facing the river.
oThe DyakMALAYSIAN$$
(%082-234068; Jln Mendu & Jln Simpang Tiga; mains RM25-35; hnoon-11pm, last order 8.30pm; av)
This elegant restaurant is the first to treat Dayak home cooking as true cuisine. The chef, classically trained in a Western style, uses traditional recipes, many of them Iban (a few are Kelabit, Kayan or Bidayuh), and fresh, organic jungle produce to create mouth-watering dishes unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. It’s 2km southeast of Old Chinatown.
The GranaryBRASSERIE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.thegranary.my; 23 Jln Wayang; lunch mains RM14-24, dinner mains RM24-58; h7am-11pm)
Housed in an old, you guessed it, granary that has been renovated with minimalist flair. This breezy restaurant serves up superb burgers, pizzas and pasta plus some pricier meat options. Check the specials board and pencil in Happy Hour (5pm to 8pm) for good deals on cocktails, beer and spirits.
Top Spot Food CourtSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Padungan; fish per kg RM30-70, vegetable dishes RM8-12; hnoon-11pm)
A perennial favourite among local foodies, this neon-lit courtyard and its half-dozen humming seafooderies sits, rather improbably, on the roof of a concrete parking garage – look for the giant backlit lobster sign. Grilled white pomfret is a particular delicacy. Ling Loong Seafood and the Bukit Mata Seafood Centre are especially good.
SPLURGE
Filled to the brim with antiques, The Junk (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-259450; 80 Jln Wayang; mains RM28-70; h6-10.45pm, bar to 2am, closed Tue; W) is in the middle of a complex of restaurants and bars – each with different names housed in three 1920s shophouses. The Junk has a busy kitchen and the food here is very good. Pasta mains cost RM29 to RM35, pizzas are RM30 to RM36, other mains include Fisherman’s Basket (RM40) and rib-eye steak (RM70). Portions are generous.
Stretching either side, and part of the same business, are The Barber (%016-658 1052; Jln Wayang; mains RM18-34; h4pm-late Tue-Fri, 5pm-late Sat & Sun, closed Mon), with a great bar out the back, Junk Bar (karaoke), The Wayang (live music 10pm Friday and Saturday), Cha Bo (Jln Wayang; mains RM18-28; h11.30am-late, closed Tues; Thai) and Bla Bla Bla (%082-233944; 27 Jln Tabuan; mains RM19-48; h6-11.30pm, closed Tue; Chinese fusion).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oDrunken MonkeyBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-242048; 68 Jln Carpenter; h2pm-2am)
This bar attracts a relaxed crowd of local professionals and tourists. Although it’s a bar only, you will find menus from several nearby restaurants scattered about, and a variety of food can be delivered to your table. Drinks include draught Guinness (RM19 per pint), a decent range of imported wines and a whole page of whiskies.
Black Bean Coffee & Tea CompanyCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Carpenter; drinks RM3-6; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)
The aroma of freshly ground coffee assaults the senses at this tiny shop, believed by many to purvey Kuching’s finest brews. Specialities, roasted daily, include Arabica, Liberica and Robusta coffees grown in Java, Sumatra and, of course, Sarawak. Also serves Oolong and green teas from Taiwan. Has just three tables. Decaf not available.
Monkee BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.monkeebars.com; Jln Song Thian Cheok; beer RM6.50-13, spirit & mixer RM13; h3pm-2am; W)
At Monkee Bar, 50% of profits go to the Orangutan Project, a wildlife conservation NGO that works at Matang Wildlife Centre. If the idea of ‘drinking for conservation’ doesn’t entice you, the prices might: Monkee Bar has some of the cheapest drinks in town. It’s a smoky joint with a young local crowd interspersed with volunteers enjoying downtime from cage-cleaning.
7Shopping
Main BazaarARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; hsome shops closed Sun)
The row of old shophouses facing the Waterfront Promenade is chock-full of handicrafts shops, some outfitted like art galleries, others with more of a ‘garage sale’ appeal, and yet others (especially along the Main Bazaar’s western section) stocking little more than kitschy-cute cat souvenirs.
Juliana Native HandworkARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016-809-5415, 082-230144; ground fl, Sarawak Textile Museum, Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg; h9am-4.30pm)
As well as her own Bidayuh beadwork pieces – most of which have been displayed in an exhibition in Singapore – Juliana sells quality rattan mats made by Penan artists (RM780) and pua kumbu Iban woven cloths. The intricate, 50cm-long beaded table runners she sells (RM680) take her three months to complete.
Ting & TingSUPERMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 30A Jln Tabuan; h9am-9pm, closed Sun & holidays)
A good selection of wine, snack food, chocolate, toiletries and nappies.
GETTING TO INDONESIA: KUCHING TO PONTIANAK
Getting to the border A number of bus companies ply the route between Kuching Sentral bus terminal (and other cities along the Sarawak coast) and the West Kalimantan city of Pontianak (economy RM60, 1st class RM80, seven/10 hours via the new/old road), passing through the Tebedu-Entikong crossing 80km south of Kuching.
At the border Travellers from 64 countries can get a one-month Indonesian visa on arrival at the road crossing between Tededu (Malaysia) and Entikong (Indonesia), the only official land border between Sarawak and Kalimantan.
Moving on Pontianak is linked to other parts of Indonesia and to Singapore by airlines such as Batavia Air (www.batavia-air.com).
8Information
EMERGENCY
| Ambulance | 999 |
| Fire | 999 |
| Police | 999 |
MEDICAL SERVICES
Klinik Chan (%082-240307; 98 Main Bazaar; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) Conveniently central. A consultation for a minor ailment costs from RM40.
Normah Medical Specialist Centre (%082-440055, emergency 082-311999; www.normah.com.my; 937 Jln Tun Abdul Rahman, Petra Jaya; hemergency 24hr, clinics 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; 
g1) Widely considered Kuching’s best private hospital. Has a 24-hour ambulance. Situated north of the river, about 6km by road from the centre. Served by the 1 bus from Saujana Bus Station, departures on the hour from 7am to 5pm.
Sarawak General Hospital (Hospital Umum Sarawak; %082-276666; http://hus.moh.gov.my/v3; Jln Hospital; h24hr) Kuching’s large public hospital has modern facilities and remarkably reasonable rates but is often overcrowded. Situated about 2km south of the centre along Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg. To get there, take bus K6, K8 or K18.
MONEY
The majority of Kuching’s banks and ATMs are on Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman.
Mohamed Yahia & Sons (basement, Sarawak Plaza, Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman; h10am-9pm) charges no commission, has good rates and accepts over 30 currencies (including US$100 bills), as well as traveller’s cheques in US dollars, euros, Australian dollars and pounds sterling. Situated inside the bookshop.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Visitors Information Centre (%082-410942, 082-410944; www.sarawaktourism.com; UTC Sarawak, Jln Padungan; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, closed public holidays) On the first floor of the UTC building on Jln Padungan. The office is usually helpful with well-informed staff, brochures and oodles of practical information (eg bus schedules).
VISA EXTENSIONS
Visa Department (Bahagian Visa; %082-245661; www.imi.gov.my; 2nd fl, Bangunan Sultan Iskandar, Kompleks Pejabat Persekutuan, cnr Jln Tun Razak & Jln Simpang Tiga; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.45am & 2.15-5pm Fri) Situated in a 17-storey federal office building about 3km south of the centre (along Jln Tabuan). Served by City Public Link buses K8 or K11, which run every half-hour or so. A taxi from the centre costs RM15.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Kuching International Airport (www.kuchingairportonline.com), 11km south of the city centre, has direct air links with Singapore, Johor Bahru (the Malaysian city across the causeway from Singapore), Kuala Lumpur (KL), Penang, Kota Kinabalu (KK), Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) and Pontianak.
MASwings, a subsidiary of Malaysia Airlines, flies from its hubs in Miri and Kuching to 14 destinations around Sarawak, including the lowland cities of Sibu, Bintulu, Limbang and Lawas and the upland destinations of Gunung Mulu National Park, Bario and Ba Kelalan.
The airport has three departure halls: ‘Domestic Departures’ for flights within Sarawak; ‘Domestic Departures (Outside Sarawak)’ for travel to other parts of Malaysia; and ‘International Departures’.
BOAT
Ekspress Bahagia (%016-800 5891, 016-889 3013, in Kuching 082-412 246, in Sibu 084-319228; one-way RM55) runs a daily express ferry from Kuching’s Express Wharf, 6km east of the centre, to Sibu. Departures are at 8.30am from Kuching and at 11.30am from Sibu (RM55, five hours). It’s a good idea to book a day ahead. A taxi from town to the wharf costs RM35.
BUS
Every half-hour or so from about 6am to 6.30pm, various buses run by City Public Link (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-239178) (eg K9) and STC (eg 3A, 4B, 6 and 2) link central Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Masjid & Jln P Ramlee) with Kuching Sentral (cnr Jln Penrissen & Jln Airport), the Regional Express Bus Terminal (RM2). Saujana’s ticket windows can point you to the next departure. A taxi to Kuching Sentral from the centre costs RM35 (25 minutes).
Buses for many destinations can be booked online via www.busonlineticket.com.
To Central Sarawak
From 6.30am to 10.30pm, a dozen different companies send buses at least hourly along Sarawak’s northern coast to Miri (RM100, 14½ hours), with stops at Sibu (RM50 to RM60, 7½ hours), Bintulu (RM80, 11½ hours), Batu Niah Junction (jumping-off point for Niah National Park) and Lambir Hills National Park. Bus Asia (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %082-411111; www.busasia.my; cnr Jln Abell & Jln Chan Chin Ann; hMon-Fri 8am-8pm, 8am-5pm Sat; 6am-10pm), for instance, has seven departures a day, the first at 8am, the last at 10pm; unlike its competitors, the company has a city centre office and, from Monday to Saturday, runs shuttle buses out to Kuching Sentral. Luxurious ‘VIP buses’, eg those run by Asia Star (%082-610111), have just three seats across (28 in total), and some come with on-board toilets, and yet cost a mere RM10 to RM20 more than regular coaches. To get to Brunei, Limbang or Sabah, you have to change buses in Miri.
To Western Sarawak
Buses to the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, Bako National Park, Kubah National Park and the Matang Wildlife Sanctuary depart from town at or near Saujana Bus Station. Buses to Lundu (including the Wind Cave and Fairy Cave) use Kuching Sentral.
TAXI
For some destinations, the only transport option – other than taking a tour – is chartering a taxi. Hiring a red-and-yellow cab for an eight-hour day should cost about RM300 to RM350. If you’d like your driver to wait at your destination and then take you back to town, count on paying about RM35 per hour of wait time.
Sample taxi fares from Kuching (prices are 50% higher at night):
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) |
|---|---|
| Annah Rais Longhouse | 80-90 one-way |
| Bako Bazaar (Bako National Park) | 60 one-way |
| Express Wharf (ferry to Sibu) | 35 |
| Fairy Cave (with Wind Cave) | 180 return incl wait |
| Kubah National Park | 60 |
| Matang Wildlife Centre | 60 |
| Santubong Peninsula Resorts | 80 |
| Sarawak Cultural Village | 80 |
| Semenggoh Nature Reserve | 140 return incl 1hr wait |
| Wind Cave (with Fairy Cave) | 180 return incl wait |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The price of a red-and-yellow taxi from the airport into Kuching is fixed at RM26 (RM39 for late-night arrivals), including luggage; a larger teksi eksekutiv (executive taxi), painted blue, costs RM43 (RM64 late night). Coupons are sold inside the terminal next to the car-rental counters.
BOAT
Bow-steered wooden boats known as tambang, powered by an outboard motor, shuttle passengers back and forth across Sungai Sarawak, linking jetties along the Waterfront Promenade with destinations such as Kampung Boyan (for Fort Margherita) and the Astana. The fare for Sarawak’s cheapest cruise is RM1 (more from 10pm to 6am); pay as you disembark. If a tambang isn’t tied up when you arrive at a dock, just wait and one will usually materialise fairly soon.
MOTORCYCLE
An Hui Motor (%016-886 3328, 082-240508; 29 Jln Tabuan; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10.30am Sun) is a motorcycle repair shop that charges RM30/RM175 per day/week for a Vespa-like Suzuki RG (110cc) or RM40/RM210 per day/week for a 125cc scooter (including helmet), plus a deposit of RM100. Insurance covers the bike but not the driver and may be valid only within an 80km radius of Kuching, so check before you head to Sematan, Lundu or Annah Rais.
TAXI
Taxis can be hailed on the street, found at taxi ranks (of which the city centre has quite a few, eg at larger hotels) or ordered by phone 24 hours a day from the following:
ABC Radio Call Service (%082-611611, 016-861 1611)
Kuching City Radio Taxi (%082-348898, 082-480000)
T&T Radio Call Taxi (%082-343343, 016-888 2255)
Kuching taxis are required to use meters; though, in our experience most won’t. Overcharging, however, is not common. Be aware that fares go up by 50% from midnight to 6am.
Around Kuching
Western Sarawak offers a dazzling array of natural sights and indigenous cultures, most within day-trip distance of Kuching.
Bako National Park
Occupying a jagged peninsula jutting into the South China Sea, Sarawak’s oldest national park (%Bako terminal 082-370434, Kuching 082-248 088; www.sarawakforestry.com; adult/child RM20/7; hpark office 8am-5pm) is just 37km northeast of downtown Kuching but feels worlds away. Bako is notable for its incredible biodiversity, which encompasses everything from orchids and pitcher plants to proboscis monkeys and bearded pigs. Bako is one of the best places in Borneo to observe these endemics up close.
The coastline of the 27sqkm peninsula consists of secluded beaches and bays interspersed with wind-sculpted cliffs, forests and stretches of tangled mangroves. The interior of the park features a range of distinct ecosystems, including classic lowland rainforest (mixed dipterocarp forest) and kerangas (heath forest), streams and waterfalls. Hiking trails traverse the central sandstone plateau and connect with several of the beaches.
Bako is an easy day trip from Kuching, but we recommend staying a night or two to fully experience the wild beauty.
1Sights & Activities
Bako’s hiking trails – colour-coded and clearly marked with stripes of paint – are suitable for all levels of fitness and motivation, with routes ranging from short nature strolls to strenuous all-day hikes. The ranger-led night walk (per person RM10; h8pm) gets great reviews. At park headquarters it’s possible to hire a boat to one of the more distant beaches and then hike back, or to hike to one of the beaches and arrange for a boat to meet you there.
4Sleeping
Bako’s accommodation is basic, although it’s well run and adequately equipped.
Accommodation often fills up, especially from May to September, so it’s best to book ahead. Some travel agencies reserve rooms that they release a week ahead if their packages remain unsold, and individual travellers also sometimes cancel, so week-before and last-minute vacancies are common. There is a RM10 key deposit and unlocked storage (free) is available at reception.
Accommodation includes the following options:
Camping (per person RM5)
Forest Hostel (dm RM15, q RM40)
Forest Lodge Type 4 (d RM150, cabin RM225; a)
Forest Lodge Type 5 (r RM100)
Forest Lodge Type 6 (d RM50, 2-room cabin RM75)
5Eating
Kerangas CaféCAFETERIA$
(canteen; Bako National Park; meals RM8–12; h7.30am-10.30pm)
The cafeteria, designed to be macaque-proof, serves a varied and tasty selection of fried rice, chicken, fish, cakes, fresh fruit and packaged snacks. Buffet meals (where you pay by the scoop) are available from 11.30am to 2pm and 6.30pm to 8pm.
8Getting There & Away
Getting to the park by public transport is a cinch. First take one of the hourly buses from Kuching to Bako Bazaar, then hop on a motorboat to Teluk Assam jetty, about 400m along a wooden boardwalk from park HQ.
Kuching travel agencies charge from RM310 per person for a tour, including the boat ride.
Boat transfers to Bako park HQ from Bako Terminal (at Bako Bazaar) are managed by Koperasi Warisan Pelancongan Bako Berhad (Bako boat transfers; %011-2513 2711, 011-2509 5070; RM20 per person one-way, RM100 private hire; h7.30am-4pm), which has a counter at the terminal and at park HQ. The 20-minute journey from the terminal at Bako Bazaar to the park costs RM20 per person (private hire of boat RM100 – in case you don’t want to wait around for a boat to collect enough passengers). From May to September, transfers are usually every hour from 8am to 4pm (ask at the counter for the day’s schedule). The last boat back from Bako is at 4pm.
When the tide is low, boats may not be able to approach the jetty at Teluk Assam, so you may have to wade ashore. Boatmen may insist on an early afternoon return time to beat a late-afternoon low tide – but bold outboard jockeys have been known to make the trip back to Bako Bazaar even at the lowest of tides.
From late November to February or March, the sea is often rough and scheduled boat trips may be less frequent.
Santubong Peninsula
%082
The Santubong Peninsula (also known as Damai) is a 10km-long finger of land jutting into the South China Sea. The main drawcards are the Sarawak Cultural Village, some of Malaysian Borneo’s best beaches, and Gunung Santubong (880m), which can be climbed from a point about 1km south of Damai Central.
1Sights & Activities
Access to Damai Central Beach F, across the parking lot from the Sarawak Cultural Village, is free. For a small fee, non-guests can hang out on the sand and in the waves at Permai Rainforest Resort (%082-846490; www.permairainforest.com; Damai Beach; adult/child RM8/5; h7am-7pm) .
Sarawak Cultural VillageMUSEUM
(SCV; %082-846411; www.scv.com.my; Damai Central; adult/child RM63.60/31.80; h9am-4.45pm)
This living museum is centred on seven traditional dwellings: three longhouses, a Penan hut, a Malay townhouse and a Chinese farmhouse. It may sound contrived but the SCV is held in high esteem by locals for its role in keeping their cultures and traditions alive.
Twice a day (at 11.30am and 4pm) a cultural show presents traditional music and dance. The lively Melanau entry involves whirling women and clacking bamboo poles, while the Orang Ulu dance features a blowpipe hunter.
4Sleeping & Eating
BB BunkersHOSTEL$
(%082-846835; www.bbbunkers.com; Damai Central; dm RM53; aW)
Situated a few metres from Damai Central Beach in the Damai Central mall, this hostel has the peninsula’s only dorm beds. The industrial-type space is subdivided by curtains, creating not-so-private spaces for one to three beds, either twins or queens. Secure storage is available.
Village HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%016-860 9389, 082-846166; www.villagehouse.com.my; Lot 634, off Jln Pantai Puteri, Kampung Santubong; incl breakfast dm RM102, d RM334-627; as)
Tucked away in the quiet Malay village of Santubong, this place has an air of serenity and relaxation to it. Rooms with belian wood floors and four-poster beds are arranged around a gorgeous pool with frangipani trees at either end. A well-stocked bar and menu of local dishes (mains RM18 to RM60) means there is really no reason to leave.
8Getting There & Away
Kuching is linked to the Santubong Peninsula (45 minutes) by the slow K15 bus from Saujana Bus Station and minibuses operated by Damai Shuttle (%082-423111; 1-way adult/child RM20/10).
Damai Shuttle has departures from Kuching’s Grand Margherita Hotel to Damai Beach and Sarawak Cultural Village four times a day (9.15am, 10.15am, 12.15pm, 2.15pm). The departures from Damai back to Kuching leave the Sarawak Cultural Village at 11.15am, 1.15pm, 3.15pm and 5.15pm.
Semenggoh Nature Reserve
One of the best places in the world to see semi-wild orangutans in their natural habitat, the Semenggoh Wildlife Center (%082-618325; www.sarawakforestry.com; Jln Puncak Borneo; adult/child RM10/5; h8-10am & 2-4pm, feeding 9am & 3pm) can be visited on a half-day trip from Kuching or combined with a visit to Annah Rais Longhouse. The shaggy creatures often swing by park HQ to dine on bananas, coconuts and eggs at daily feeding sessions. There’s no guarantee that any orangutans will show up, but even when there are plenty of fruits in the forest the chances are excellent. Sometimes they arrive a little late, so don’t rush off straight away even if everything seems quiet.
8Getting There & Away
Two bus companies provide reliable public transport from Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station to the park gate, which is 1.3km down the hill from park HQ (RM4, 45 minutes):
City Public Link Bus K6 (RM4.30) departs from Kuching at 7.15am, 10.15am and 1pm, and from Semenggoh at 8.45pm, 11.15am, 2.15pm and 4.15pm.
Sarawak Transport Company (MAP GOOGLE MAP; STC; %082-233579; Jln P Ramlee) Bus 6 (RM4) has Kuching departures at 6.45am and 12.15pm; buses back to Kuching pass by Semenggoh at 10am and 3.45pm.
A taxi from Kuching costs RM60 to RM70 one-way or RM140 return, including one hour of wait time.
Tours are organised by Kuching guesthouses and tour agencies.
Annah Rais
Although this Bidayuh longhouse village has been on the tourist circuit for decades, it is still a good place to get a sense of what a longhouse is and experience what longhouse life is like. It’s possible to visit as a day guest and eat a meal here or stay overnight in one of the several homestays.
The 500 or so residents of Annah Rais (adult/student RM8/4) are as keen as the rest of us to enjoy the comforts of modern life, but they’ve made a conscious decision to preserve their traditional architecture and the social interaction it engenders.
Once you pay your entry fee (in a pavilion next to the parking lot), you’re free to explore Annah Rais’ three longhouses, either with a guide or on your own. The most important feature is the awah, a long, covered common verandah – with a springy bamboo floor – used for economic activities, socialising and celebrations.
4Sleeping
Half-a-dozen families run homestays with shared bathrooms, either in one of the three longhouses or in an adjacent detached house. Standard rates, agreed upon by the community, are RM298 per person for accommodation and delicious Bidayuh board. It is also possible to arrange a package including activities such as hiking, rafting, fishing, (mock) blowgun hunting, soaking in a natural hot spring and a dance performance.
Akam GanjaHOMESTAY$$
(%010-984 3821; winniejagig@gmail.com; per person incl meals RM298)
Akam, a retired forestry official, and his wife Winnie, an English teacher, run a welcoming homestay at their comfortable detached house on the riverbank.
8Getting There & Away
Annah Rais is about 55km south of Kuching. A taxi from Kuching costs RM80 to RM90 one-way (about 90 minutes).
A variety of Kuching guesthouses and tour agencies offer four-hour tours to Annah Rais (per person from RM250).
Kubah National Park & Matang Wildlife Centre
Mixed dipterocarp forest, among the lushest and most threatened habitats in Borneo, is front and centre at 22sqkm Kubah National Park (%082-845033; www.sarawakforestry.com; incl Matang Wildlife Centre adult/child RM20/7; h8am-5pm), which makes an ideal day or overnight trip from Kuching.
When you pay your entry fee, you’ll receive a hand-coloured schematic map of the park’s interconnected trails. They’re well marked, so a guide isn’t necessary, and also offer a good degree of shade, making them ideal for the sun averse. And when you’re hot and sweaty from walking you can cool off under a crystal-clear waterfall.
A 3.8km trail (or 3½ hours’ walk) leads from Kubah National Park to Matang Wildlife Centre (%082-374869; www.sarawakforestry.com; incl Kubah National Park adult/child RM20/7; h8am-5pm, animal enclosure trail 8.30am-3.30pm), which lies within the park boundaries. The centre has had remarkable success rehabilitating jungle animals rescued from captivity, especially orangutans and sun bears. The highly professional staff do their best to provide their abused charges with natural living conditions, but there’s no denying that the centre looks like a low-budget zoo plopped down in the jungle. Because of the centre’s unique role, there are endangered animals here that you cannot see anywhere else in Sarawak.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation, available at both Kubah and Matang, is of a better standard at Kubah. Attractive, inexpensive options include the forest hostel (%082-370422, Kuching 082-248088; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; dm RM15); forest lodge type 4 (%082-370422, Kuching 082-248088; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; 6-bed cabin RM225; a) and forest lodge type 5 (%082-370422, Kuching 082-248088; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; 10-bed cabin RM150). Cooking is allowed in the chalets, which have fully equipped kitchens, but there’s nowhere to buy food, so bring everything you’ll need.
8Getting There & Away
Kubah National Park is 22km northwest of Kuching. A taxi from Kuching costs RM60/120 one way/return. Your taxi driver may charge RM35 per hour of waiting.
From Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station, bus K21 to the Politeknik stops on the main road 400m from park HQ, next to the Kubah Family Park (RM4, one hour). Departures from Kuching are at 8am, 11am, 2pm and 5pm, and from the main road (opposite the turn-off for Kubah), at 6.30am, 9.30am, 12.30pm and 3.30pm (be there at 3pm, the bus sometimes leaves early).
Wind Cave & Fairy Cave
About 26km southwest of Kuching, the town of Bau is a good access point to two interesting cave systems. Situated 5km southwest of Bau, the Wind Cave (Gua Angin; %082-765472; adult/child RM5/2; h8.30am-4.30pm) is essentially a network of underground streams, while nearby Fairy Cave (Gua Pari Pari; adult/child RM5/2; h8.30am-4pm) – almost the size of a football pitch and as high as it is wide – is an extraordinary chamber whose entrance is 30m above the ground in the side of a cliff.
8Getting There & Away
Bau is 43km southwest of Kuching. The town is linked to Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station (RM5, 1½ hours) by bus 2 (every 20 minutes from 6.20am to 6pm). A taxi from Kuching costs around RM80 (50 minutes).
To get from Bau to the Wind Cave turn-off (a 1km walk from the cave), take BTC bus 3A. Departures are at 9am, 11am and 3pm. To get from Bau to the Fairy Cave turn-off (a 1.5km or 30-minute walk from the cave), take BTC bus 3, which departs at 8.40am, 10.30am, 11.40am and 3pm.
From Kuching, a taxi to both caves costs RM180 return, including three hours of wait time. A tour from Kuching to both caves costs from RM150 per person (minimum two).
Gunung Gading National Park
The best place in Sarawak to see the world’s largest flower, the renowned Rafflesia, Gunung Gading National Park (%082-735144; www.sarawakforestry.com; adult/child RM20/7; h8am-5pm) makes a fine day trip from Kuching. Its old-growth rainforest covers the slopes of four mountains (gunung) – Gading, Lundu, Perigi and Sebuloh – and is traversed by hiking trails.
The star attraction at 41sqkm Gunung Gading is the Rafflesia tuan-mudae, a species that’s endemic to Sarawak. Up to 75cm in diameter, they flower pretty much year-round but unpredictably, and each flower lasts no more than five days. So to see one you’ll need some luck. To find out if a Rafflesia is in bloom – something that happens here only about 25 times a year – contact the park or call the National Park Booking Office on 082-248088.
4Sleeping & Eating
The park has a hostel (%Kuching 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; dm/r without bathrooms RM15/40) with four fan rooms and two three-bedroom forest lodges (%Kuching 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; per cabin RM150; a) that can sleep up to six people. Camping (%Kuching 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; http://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; per person RM5) is possible at park headquarters. Cooking is permitted in park accommodation. There are restaurants, food stalls and a large market in the town of Lundu, a walkable 2.5km from the park.
8Getting There & Away
Gunung Gading National Park is 85km northwest of Kuching.
Four public buses a day link Kuching Sentral long-distance bus station with Lundu, but from there you’ll either have to walk north 2.5km to the park, or hire an unofficial taxi (about RM5 per person).
A tour from Kuching costs about RM350 per person including lunch (minimum two people). Groups could consider hiring a taxi for around RM300 including waiting time.
Sibu
%084 / Pop 162,676
Gateway to the Batang Rejang, Sibu has grown rich from trade with Sarawak’s interior since the time of James Brooke. These days, although the ‘swan city’ does not rival Kuching in terms of charm, it’s not a bad place to spend a day or two before or after a boat trip into Borneo’s wild interior.
1Sights
oTua Pek Kong TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(Jln Temple; h6.30am-8pm) F
A modest wooden structure existed on the site of this colourful riverfront Taoist temple as far back as 1871; it was rebuilt in 1897 but badly damaged by Allied bombs in 1942.
For panoramic views over the town and the muddy Batang Rejang, climb the seven-storey Kuan Yin Pagoda, built in 1987; the best time is sunset, when a swirl of swiftlets buzzes around the tower at eye level. Ask for the key at the ground-floor desk.
Sibu Heritage CentreMUSEUM
(Jln Central; h9am-5pm, closed Mon & public holidays) F
Housed in an airy, circular municipal complex built in 1960, this excellent museum explores the captivating history of Sarawak and Sibu. Panels, rich in evocative photographs, take a look at the various Chinese dialect groups and other ethnic groups, Sarawak’s communist insurgency (1965–90), Sibu’s Christian (including Methodist) traditions, and local opposition to Sarawak’s incorporation into Malaysia in 1963.
4Sleeping
oLi Hua HotelHOTEL$
(%084-324000; www.lihuahotel.com.my; cnr Jln Maju & Jln Teo Chong Loh; s/d/ste RM50/65/150; aiW)
Sibu’s best-value hotel has 68 spotless, tile-floor rooms spread out over nine storeys, and staff that are professional and friendly. It’s especially convenient if you’re arriving or leaving by boat. Light sleepers should avoid the rooms above the karaoke bars on Jln Teo Chong Loh that blare out music late into the night.
River Park HotelHOTEL$
(fax 084-316688; 51-53 Jln Maju; d RM50-65; aW)
A friendly, well-run, 30-room budget hotel in a convenient riverside location. The cheapest rooms don’t have windows and are best avoided.
5Eating
oSibu Central MarketHAWKER$
(Pasar Sentral Sibu; Jln Channel; mains RM3-7; hfood stalls 3am-midnight)
Malaysia’s largest fruit-and-veg market has more than 1000 stalls. Upstairs, Chinese, Malay and Iban-run food stalls serve up local specialities, including porridge (available early in the morning and at night), kampua mee (dry plate noodles) and kompia (a local bagel). Most of the noodle stalls close around noon.
Night MarketHAWKER$
(Pasar Malam; Jln Market; h5-11pm or midnight)
Chinese stalls (selling pork and rice, steamed buns etc) are at the western end of the lot, while Malay stalls (with superb satay and barbecue chicken) are to the northeast. Also has a few Iban-run places.
Payung CaféMALAYSIAN$$
(%016-890 6061; 20F Jln Lanang; mains RM8-19; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, 5.30-11pm Sun)
This is a delightful cafe where diners feast on healthy (no re-used oil, deep frying or MSG) local food such as mushroom rolls, spicy otak-otak barbecued fish, deliciously fresh herb salad, and generous servings of the volcano-like Mulu icecream. Drinks include fresh pineapple-and-ginger soda (very refreshing) and local Sibu coffee.
8Information
Rejang Medical Centre (%084-323333; www.rejang.com.my; 29 Jln Pedada; hemergency 24hr) Has 24-hour emergency services, including an ambulance. Situated about 1.5km east of the city centre.
Visitors Information Centre (%084-340980; www.sarawaktourism.com; Sublot 3a & 3b, Sibu Heritage Centre, Jln Central; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, closed public holidays) Well worth a stop. Has friendly and informative staff, plenty of maps, bus and ferry schedules, and brochures on travel around Sarawak.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
MASwings (%084-307888, ext 2; www.maswings.com.my; Sibu Airport, Jln Durin; h6am-8.30pm) has inexpensive services to Kuching, Bintulu, Miri and KK, Malaysia Airlines (%084-307799; www.malaysiaairlines.com; Sibu Airport, Jln Durin) flies to KL, and AirAsia (%084-307808; www.airasia.com; Departure Area, Level 1, Sibu Airport; h7am-8pm) flies to Kuching, KL and Johor Bahru (across the causeway from Singapore).
BOAT
Unless you fly, the quickest way to get from Sibu to Kuching is by boat. Ekspress Bahagia (%016-800 5891, in Kuching 082-429242, in Sibu 084-319228; Rejang Esp; hfrom Sibu 11.30am, from Kuching 8.30am) runs a daily express ferry to/from Kuching’s Express Wharf (RM55, five hours), which passes through an Amazonian dystopia of abandoned sawmills and rust-bucket tramp steamers. Departures are 11.30am from Sibu and 8.30am from Kuching. It’s a good idea to book a day ahead.
‘Flying coffin’ express boats head up the Batang Rejang to Kapit (RM25 to RM35, 140km, three hours) hourly from 5.45am to 2.30pm. Water levels at the Pelagus Rapids permitting, one boat a day, departing at 5.45am, goes all the way to Belaga, 155km upriver from Kapit (RM55, 11 hours).
All boats leave from the Express Ferry Terminal (Terminal Penumpang Sibu; Jln Kho Peng Long; W). Make sure you’re on board 15 minutes before departure time – boats have been known to depart early.
BUS
Sibu’s long-distance bus station (Jln Pahlawan) is about 3.5km northeast of the centre along Jln Pedada. A variety of companies send buses to Kuching (RM50 to RM60, seven to eight hours, regular departures between 7am and 4am), Miri (RM50, 6½ hours, roughly hourly from 6am to 3.30am) and Bintulu (RM27, 3¼ hours, roughly hourly from 6am to 3.30am).
8Getting Around
To get from the local bus station, in front of the Express Ferry Terminal, to the long-distance bus station, take Lanang Bus 21 (RM2, 15 minutes, once or twice an hour 6.30am to 5.15pm).
Batang Rejang
A trip up the tan, churning waters of 640km-long Batang Rejang (Rejang River) – the ‘Amazon of Borneo’ – is one of Southeast Asia’s great river journeys. Express ferries barrel through the currents, eddies and whirlpools, the pilots expertly dodging angular black boulders half-hidden in the roiling waters. Though the area is no longer the jungle-lined wilderness it was in the days before Malaysian independence, it retains a frontier, ulu-ulu (upriver, back-of-beyond) vibe, especially in towns and longhouses accessible only by boat.
Kapit
%084 / Pop 16,000
The main upriver settlement on the Batang Rejang, Kapit is a bustling trading and transport centre dating back to the days of the White Rajahs. Kapit’s lively markets reveal its importance as a trading hub for the surrounding longhouse communities.
1Sights
Fort SylviaMUSEUM
(Jln Kubu; h10am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Mon & public holidays) F
Built by Charles Brooke in 1880 to take control of the Upper Rejang, this wooden fort – built of belian – was renamed in 1925 to honour Ranee Sylvia, wife of Charles Vyner Brooke.
The exhibits inside offer a good introduction to the traditional lifestyles of the indigenous groups of the Batang Rejang and include evocative colonial-era photographs. Also on show is the peace jar presented during the historical 1924 peacemaking ceremony between previously warring Iban, Kayan and Kenyah groups.
Pasar TeresangMARKET
(Jln Penghulu Gerinang; h5.30am-6pm)
Some of the goods unloaded at the waterfront end up in this colourful covered market. It’s a chatty, noisy hive of grass-roots commerce, with a galaxy of unfamiliar edibles that grow in the jungle, as well as handicrafts. Orang Ulu people sell fried treats and steamed buns.
4Sleeping & Eating
New Rejang InnHOTEL$
(%084-796600, 084-796700; 104 Jln Teo Chow Beng; d RM98-108; aW)
A welcoming and well-run hotel whose 15 spotless, good-sized rooms come with comfortable mattresses, hot water, TV, phone and minifridge. The best-value accommodation in town. A discount of RM10 on the rack rates is there for the asking.
Hiap Chiong HotelHOTEL$
(%084-796314; 33 Jln Temenggong Jugah; d RM50; aW)
Night MarketMALAYSIAN$
(Taman Selera Empurau; mains RM2.50-6; h5-11pm or midnight)
Delicious satay and barbecue chicken are the highlight of this night market, which has tables to eat at. Situated a block up the slope from Kapit Town Square.
8Information
Kapit has a couple of banks with ATMs.
8Getting There & Away
Express boats to Sibu (RM25 to RM35, 2½ to three hours, once or twice an hour) depart between 6.40am and 3.15pm from the Kapit Passenger Terminal (Jln Panglima Balang; W), which has a pleasant verandah cafe with breezy river views. Purchase tickets next door inside the Petronas petrol station.
Water levels permitting (for details, call Daniel Levoh in Belaga), an express boat heads upriver to Belaga (RM55, 4½ hours) from the Kapit Town Square jetty (Kapit Town Sq), two blocks downriver from the Kapit Passenger Terminal, once a day at about 9.30am. Be on board by 9.15am.
Belaga
%086 / Pop 36,114
There’s not much to do in Belaga except soak up the frontier outpost vibe, but nearby rivers are home to quite a few Kayan, Kenyah and Penan longhouses.
TTours
Daniel LevohTOURS
(%013-848 6351, 086-461198; daniellevoh@hotmail.com; Jln Teh Ah Kiong)
A Kayan former school headmaster, Daniel is friendly and knowledgeable. Possible excursions include walking to Sihan, a Penan settlement across the river and stopping at a waterfall (this can be done unguided at a cost of RM20 for the boat and a gift for the longhouse; Daniel will call ahead). Can also arrange private transport around Belaga and Bintulu.
4Sleeping
Daniel Levoh’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%013-848 6351, 086-461198; daniellevoh@hotmail.com; Jln Teh Ah Kiong; dm RM20, d without bathroom RM40; W)
The four simple rooms sharing a bathroom are on the 2nd floor, opening off a large open verandah decorated with a traditional Kayan mural. Owner Daniel Levoh is happy to share stories of longhouse life. Situated two blocks behind Main Bazaar.
Belaga B&BHOTEL$
(%013-842 9760; freeland205@gmail.com; Main Bazaar; with fan dm/d RM15/25, with air-con d RM35; a)
Has seven basic rooms, some with air-con, all with shared bathroom facilities. Don’t let the name fool you: breakfast isn’t included. Owned by Hasbee, a former longhouse guide who now runs the eponymous cafe downstairs. He is happy to help arrange longhouse visits.
8Information
The town’s only ATM is often out of order; bring plenty of cash.
8Getting There & Away
If the water levels at the Pelagus Rapids (32km upriver from Kapit) are high enough, you can take an express boat to Kapit (RM55, 4½ hours) departing at about 7.30am. To find out if the boat is running, call tour guide Daniel Levoh. When the river is too low, the only way to get out of Belaga is by 4WD to Bintulu.
4WD Toyota Land Cruisers link Belaga with Bintulu (RM50 to RM60 per person, RM400 for the whole vehicle, four hours) on most days, with departures from Belaga at about 7.30am and from Bintulu in the early afternoon (between noon and 2pm). If you’re coming from Miri or Batu Niah Junction or heading up that way (ie northeast), you can arrange to be picked up or dropped off at Simpang Bakun (Bakun Junction), which is on the inland (old) highway 53km northeast of Bintulu and 159km southwest of Miri.
UPRIVER TRAVEL PERMITS
An outdated permit system is in place for tourists travelling from Kapit to Belaga, or up the Batang Belah. A permit for upriver travel takes just a few minutes to issue at the Resident’s Office (%084 796 230; www.kapit.sarawak.gov.my; 9th fl, Kompleks Kerajaan Negeri Bahagian Kapit, Jln Bleteh; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.45am & 2.15-5pm Fri). Staff cannot provide information on visiting longhouses and we have yet to hear of a traveller being asked to show their permit when travelling upriver. The office is 2km west of the centre; to get there, take a minibus (RM2) from the southeast corner of Pasar Teresang.
Bintulu
%086 / Pop 114,058
Roughly midway between Sibu and Miri (about 200km from each), the gritty port of Bintulu owes its existence to offshore gas fields. Most visitors will be planning to visit Similajau National Park or travel overland to or from Belaga.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kintown InnHOTEL$
(%086-333666; 93 Jln Keppel; r RM92; aW)
The carpeted rooms in this centrally located hotel, though small and rather musty, are a reasonable option for those on a budget who aren’t put off by a bit of well-worn patina.
Riverfront InnHOTEL$$
(%086-333111; riverfrontinn@hotmail.com; 256 Taman Sri Dagang; s/d from RM104/116; aW)
A long-standing favourite with business and leisure visitors alike, the Riverfront is low-key but has a touch of class. Try to get a deluxe room (RM121) overlooking the river – the view is pure Borneo.
Night MarketMALAYSIAN$
(Pasar Malam; off Jln Abang Galau; mains RM2-6; h4-10pm)
A good place to pick up snacks, fresh fruit and Malay favourites such as satay and nasi lemak.
8Getting There & Away
AirAsia (www.airasia.com; Jln Bintulu, Bintulu Airport; h6am-6.30pm) and Malaysia Airlines (%086-331349; www.malaysiaairlines.com; Jln Masjid; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) have direct flights to Kuching and Kuala Lumpur. MASwings (%086-331349; www.maswings.com.my; Bintulu airport; h7am-7pm) flies to Kota Kinabalu, Miri, Sibu and Kuching.
The long-distance bus station is at Medan Jaya, 5km northeast of the centre (aka Bintulu Town); a taxi costs RM20. About a dozen companies have buses approximately hourly to the following:
Kuching (RM80, 11 hours) via Sibu (RM27, four hours), from 6am to midnight.
Miri (RM27, four hours) via Niah Junction (RM20, 2¾ hours), from 6am to 9.30pm.
To arrange transport by 4WD Toyota Land Cruiser from Bintulu to Belaga (per person RM50, four hours) on some pretty rough logging roads, call Daniel Levoh. Departures are generally in the early afternoon (between noon and 2pm).
Niah National Park
Near the coast about 115km south of Miri, 31 sq km Niah National Park (%085-737450, 085-737454; www.sarawakforestry.com; adult/child RM20/7; hpark office 8am-5pm) is home to one of Borneo’s gems, the Niah Caves. In addition to lots of bats and swiftlets, they shelter some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in Southeast Asia.
Across the river from park HQ, Niah Archaeology Museum (motor launch per person RM1, 5.30-7.30pm RM1.50; h9am-4.45pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) has informative displays on Niah’s geology, ecology and prehistoric archaeology, including an original burial canoe that’s at least 1200 years old.
1Sights
Great CaveCAVE
(park entry fee adult/child RM20/7; hpark office 8am-5pm)
A raised boardwalk leads 3.1km (3½ to four hours return) through swampy, old-growth rainforest to the mouth of the Great Cave, a vast cavern approximately 2km long, up to 250m across and up to 60m high. Inside, the trail splits to go around a massive central pillar, but both branches finish at the same point, so it’s impossible to get lost if you stick to the boardwalk. The stairs and handrails are usually covered with guano, and can be slippery.
4Sleeping
Bookings for the hostel (Niah National Park HQ; r RM40, towel rental RM6) and forest lodges (Niah National Park HQ; q with fan RM100, d/q with air-con RM250/150) can be made at park headquarters or through one of the National Park Booking Offices (%in Kuching 082-248088, in Miri 085-434184). Camping (RM5 per person) is permitted near the park headquarters.
Rumah Patrick Libau HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%Asan 014-596 2757; Niah National Park; per person incl meals RM70; W)
The traditional,100-door Iban longhouse Rumah Patrick Libau, which is home to about 400 people, operates an informal homestay program. Accommodation is basic but the longhouse has wi-fi and 24-hour electricity. To get here, take the signposted turn off the main trail that leads to the caves. Villagers often sit at the junction selling cold drinks and souvenirs.
8Getting There & Away
Niah National Park is about 115km southwest of Miri and 122km northeast of Bintulu and can be visited as a day trip from either city.
Park HQ is 15km north of Batu Niah Junction, a major transport hub on the inland (old) Miri–Bintulu highway. This makes getting to the park by public transport a tad tricky.
All long-haul buses linking Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal with Bintulu, Sibu and Kuching stop at Batu Niah Junction, but the only way to get from the junction to the park is to hire an unofficial taxi. The price should be RM30 to RM40, but you’ll have to nose around the junction to find one. A good place to check: the bench in front of Shen Yang Trading, at the corner of Ngu’s Garden Food Court. National park staff (or, after hours, park security personnel) can help arrange a car back to the junction.
From Miri, a taxi to Niah costs RM160 one-way or RM250 return, including waiting time.
Lambir Hills National Park
The 69-sq-km Lambir Hills National Park (%085-471609; www.sarawakforestry.com; Jln Miri-Bintulu; adult/child RM20/7; h8am-5pm, last entry 4pm) shelters dozens of jungle waterfalls, plenty of cool pools where you can take a dip, and a network of walking trails through mixed dipterocarp and kerangas forests. A perennial favourite among locals and an important centre of scientific research, Lambir Hills makes a great day or overnight trip out of Miri.
4Sleeping & Eating
The park’s accommodation is in reasonably comfortable, two-room cabins (%085-471609; https://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; Jln Miri-Bintulu; r with fan & share bathroom RM50, r with air-con & private bathroom RM100). Camping (%085-471609; https://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my; Jln Miri-Bintulu; per person RM5) is permitted near the park HQ. Cabins are sometimes booked out at weekends and during school holidays. If you get in before 2pm (check-in time), bags can be left at the camp office.
A small canteen (Jln Miri-Bintulu; mains RM4-6; h8am-5pm) serves fried rice and noodles. Cooking facilities are not available but you can rent an electric kettle (RM5) to boil water for instant noodles.
8Getting There & Away
Park HQ is 32km south of Miri on the inland (old) highway to Bintulu.
All the buses that link Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal with Bintulu, Sibu and Kuching pass by here (RM10 from Miri) – just ask the driver to stop. There is a bus stand on the main road by the turn-off for the park, from where you can flag down a bus to Miri for the return journey.
A taxi from Miri costs RM50 one-way (RM100 to RM120 return, including two hours of wait time).
Miri
%085 / Pop 358,020
Miri, Sarawak’s second city, is a thriving oil town that is vibrant and modern. Thanks to the offshore oil there’s plenty of service industries and money sloshing around, so the eating is good, the broad avenues are brightly lit, and there’s plenty to do when it’s raining.
Miri serves as a major transport hub, so if you’re travelling to/from Brunei, Sabah, the Kelabit Highlands or the national parks of Gunung Mulu, Niah or Lambir Hills, chances are you’ll pass this way.
1Sights
Miri City FanPARK
(Jln Kipas; h24hr)
An attractive open, landscaped park with Chinese- and Malay-style gardens and ponds that is a popular spot for walking and jogging. The complex also comprises a library, an indoor stadium and an Olympic-sized public swimming pool (RM1).
4Sleeping
oDillenia GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%085-434204; www.sites.google.com/site/dilleniaguesthouse; 1st fl, 846 Jln Sida; dm/s/d/f incl breakfast, with shared bathroom RM30/50/80/110; aiW)
This welcoming hostel, with 11 rooms and lots of sweet touches like plants in the bathroom, lives up to its motto, ‘a home away from home’. Incredibly helpful Mrs Lee, whose beautiful embroidered quilts adorn the walls, is an artesian well of travel information and tips – and even sells leech socks (RM20).
Coco HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%085-417051; www.cocohouse.com.my; Lot 2117 Block 9, Jln Miri Pujut; incl breakfast dm/s/d RM30/55/90; aiW)
Coco House has bright, modern dorms with pod-like bunks and private rooms that are small but functional with splashes of colour. The spotless bathrooms have rainwater shower heads and there is a comfy common area with books, board games, DVDs and a microwave for heating food. There is a barbecue on the roof terrace for communal feasts.
My HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%085-429091; http://staymyhomestay.blogspot.com; Lot 1091, Jln Merpati; dm incl breakfast RM35, d RM55-60; aiW)
A friendly place in a good location, it has a spacious balcony with comfy chairs overlooking the bustling street below. Most rooms, though clean and colourful, are windowless and a little stuffy. Prices are higher at weekends.
Next Room GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%085-411422, 085-322090; 1st & 2nd fl, Lot 637, Jln North Yu Seng; incl breakfast dm per person RM32, d with shared bathroom RM60-65, with bathroom RM85-95; aiW)
In the heart of Miri’s dining and drinking district, this cosy establishment offers 13 rooms, a small kitchen, a DVD lounge and a great rooftop sundeck. Dorm rooms are pretty packed, with 10 beds. Light sleepers be warned: the nightclub across the street pumps out music until 2am. Prices are higher on weekends.
5Eating
oMadli’s RestaurantMALAYSIAN$
(%085-426615; www.madli.net; Lot 1088 ground fl, Block 9, Jln Merpati; mains RM6-24; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, 8am-1am Fri & Sat; a)
A long-running family business that started off as a satay stall in the 1970s; read the history on the wall above the kitchen. Madli’s is open on two sides for ventilation and is spotlessly clean. As well as lip-smackingly good chicken-fillet and Australian-beef satay (RM1.30 per stick), the menu includes Malaysian dishes like nasi lemak and kampung fried rice.
Summit CaféMALAYSIAN$
(%019-885 3920; Lot 1245, Centre Point Commercial Centre, Jln Melayu; meals RM7-15; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; v)
If you’ve never tried Kelabit cuisine, this place will open up whole new worlds for your tastebuds. Queue up and choose from the colourful array of ‘jungle food’ laid out at the counter, including dure (fried jungle leaf), minced tapioca leaves, and labo senutuk (wild boar). The best selection is available before 11.30am – once the food runs out, it closes.
Miri Central MarketHAWKER$
(Pasar Pusat Miri; Jln Brooke; mains RM2-6; h24hr, most stalls 6am-noon)
Of the Chinese food purveyors selling kari ayam (chicken curry), porridge and the usual rice and noodle dishes, stall 6 (open 3.30am to 10am) is particularly popular. Stall 20 serves up vegetarian fare.
oMing CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
(%085-422797; cnr Jln North Yu Seng & Jln Merbau; mains RM5-40; h10am-2pm)
This very popular cafe-bar serves excellent food in a relaxed casual, open-sided restaurant. There is an indoor air-conditioned section but the pot plants and fans keep the outdoor section comfortable and a great place to socialise. The menu features Chinese, Malay, pizzas (from RM19) and burgers (RM6 to RM40), plus particularly good Indian fare.
GETTING TO BRUNEI: MIRI TO BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
Getting to the border The only company that’s allowed to take passengers from Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal to destinations inside Brunei is PHLS Express (%in Brunei +673 277 1668, in Miri 085-438301; Pujut Bus Terminal), which sends buses to BSB (RM70, three hours) via Kuala Belait (RM52) and Seria (RM52) at 8.15am and 3.45pm. Tickets are sold at the Bintang Jaya counter. Another option for travel between BSB and Miri is a private transfer (which may be shared with other travellers) run by Mr Ah Pau (RM70 per person, three hours). Call Ah Pau on 016-8072893 (Malaysian mobile) or 866 8109 (Brunei mobile). Departures from Miri are generally at 9am or 10am but may be earlier; departures from BSB to Miri are usually at 1pm or 2pm.
At the border Border formalities are usually quick, and for most nationalities Bruneian visas are free, but the process can slow down buses. If you’re eventually headed overland to Sabah, make sure you have enough pages in your passport for 10 new chops (stamps).
Moving on Brunei’s Serasa Ferry Terminal, 20km northeast of BSB, is linked by ferry with Pulau Labuan, from where boats go to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. Several buses a day go from BSB to Sarawak’s Limbang Division and destinations in Sabah.
For information on making this crossing in reverse see here.
8Information
ATMs can be found at the airport and all over the city centre.
Miri City Medical Centre (%085-426622; 916-920 Jln Hokkien; hemergency 24hr) Has an ambulance service, a 24-hour accident-and-emergency department and various private clinics. Located in the city centre.
National Park Booking Office (%085-434184; www.sarawakforestry.com; 452 Jln Melayu; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Inside the Visitors Information Centre. Has details on Sarawak’s national parks and can book beds and rooms at Niah, Lambir Hills and Similajau (but not Gunung Mulu).
Visitors Information Centre (%085-434181; www.sarawaktourism.com; 452 Jln Melayu; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, Sun & public holidays) The helpful staff can provide city maps and information on accommodation in and around Miri, including the national parks.
8Getting There & Away
Miri is 212km northeast of Bintulu and 36km southwest of the Brunei border.
AIR
Miri’s airport (www.miriairport.com; Jln Airport) is 10km south of the town centre and is served by AirAsia (%600 85 8888; www.airasia.com; ground fl, Miri Airport; h7.30am-8.30pm), Malaysia Airlines (%085-414155; www.malaysiaairlines.com; Lot No 10635 Airport Commercial Centre, Jln Airport) and MASwings (%085-423500; www.maswings.com.my; ground fl, Miri Airport; h6am-9pm).
There is a separate check-in area for MASwings ‘Rural Air Service’ which includes flights to Bario. If you are flying on a Twin Otter plane you’ll be asked to weigh yourself on giant scales while holding your carry-on.
BUS
Long-distance buses use the Pujut Bus Terminal (Jln Miri Bypass), about 4km northeast of the centre.
About once an hour, buses head to Kuching (RM80 to RM90, 12 to 14 hours, departures from 7.15am to 8.30pm) via the inland (old) Miri–Bintulu highway, with stops at Lambir Hills National Park, Batu Niah Junction (access point for Niah National Park; RM12, 1½ hours), Bintulu (RM27, 3½ hours) and Sibu (RM50, seven to eight hours). This route is highly competitive, and the spacious ‘VIP’ buses are worth the extra spend. Companies include Bintang Jaya (%Kuching 082-531133, Miri 085-432178; www.bintangjayaexpress.com) and Miri Transport Company (MTC; %in Kuching 082-531161, in Miri 085-434161; www.mtcmiri.com; Pujut Bus Terminal).
Bintang Jaya also has services northeast to Limbang (RM45, four hours), Lawas (RM75, six hours) and Kota Kinabalu (KK; RM90, 10 hours). Buses leave Miri at 8.30am; departures from KK are at 7.30am. Borneo Express serves the same destinations at 7.45am; departures from KK are also at 7.45am. With both these companies, getting off in Brunei is not allowed.
Gunung Mulu National Park
Few national parks anywhere in the world pack so many natural marvels into such a small area. From caves of mind-boggling proportions to other-worldly geological phenomena such as the Pinnacles to brilliant old-growth rainforest, 529 sq km Gunung Mulu National Park (Gunung Mulu World Heritage Area; %085-792300; www.mulupark.com; Gunung Mulu National Park; 5-day pass adult/child RM30/10; hHQ office 8am-5pm) is truly one of our planet’s wonders.
1Sights & Activities
When you register at park HQ, you will receive a map of the park to help you plan your activities. HQ staff are generally helpful in planning itineraries and accommodating special interests.
The park’s website and the brochures available at HQ have details of the tours and activities available. Note that some cave tours and treks may be booked out well in advance.
Mulu’s ‘show caves’ (the park’s name for caves that can be visited without specialised training or equipment) are its most popular attraction and for good reason: they are, quite simply, awesome. Cave routes that require special eqpment
All of the caves and some of the rainforest hikes require a certified guide. Advance reservations are a must, especially if you’ve got your heart set on adventure caving, or on hiking to the Pinnacles or the summit of Gunung Mulu. July, August and September are the park’s busiest months, but even then spots do open up if you’re able to hang out at the park for a few days. Tour agencies charge more than the park itself, but may be able to find a guide on short notice.
Deer Cave & Lang CaveCAVE
(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person RM35; h2pm & 2.30pm)
A 3km walk through the rainforest takes you to these adjacent caverns. The Deer Cave – over 2km in length and 174m high – is the world’s largest cave passage open to the public, while the Lang Cave – more understated in its proportions – contains interesting stalactites and stalagmites. Be sure to stay on for the ‘bat exodus’ at dusk.
Wind Cave & Clearwater CaveCAVE
(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person incl boat ride RM65; h8.45am & 9.15am)
Zipping along a jungle river in a longboat on your way to the caves is not a bad way to start the day. The Wind Cave, named for the cool breezes blowing through it, has several chambers, including the cathedral-like King’s Chamber, filled with dreamlike forests of stalagmites and columns. There is a sweaty 200-step climb up to Clearwater Cave and the subterranean river there. The cave itself is vast: more than 200km of passages have been surveyed so far.
Mulu Canopy SkywalkWALKING
(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person RM45; h7am, 8.30am, 10am, 10.30am, 1pm & 2pm)
Mulu’s 480m-long skywalk, unforgettably anchored to a series of huge trees, has excellent signage and is one of the best in Southeast Asia. Often gets booked out early – for a specific time slot, reserve as soon as you’ve got your flight.
PinnaclesTREKKING
(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person RM415; hTue-Thu & Fri-Sun)
The Pinnacles are an incredible formation of 45m-high stone spires protruding from the forested flanks of Gunung Api. Getting there involves a boat ride and, in between two overnights at Camp 5 (%park HQ 085-792300; www.mulupark.com; Gunung Mulu National Park; per person incl boat ride RM200), an unrelentingly steep 2.4km ascent. Coming down is just as taxing, so by the time you stagger back to camp, the cool, clear river may look pretty enticing.
Gunung Mulu SummitTREKKING
(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person RM650, 3-8 people)
The climb to the summit of Gunung Mulu (2376m) – described by one satisfied ascendee as ‘gruelling’ and, near the top, ‘treacherous’ – is a classic Borneo adventure. If you’re very fit and looking for a challenge, this 24km, three-day, four-night trek may be for you. The climb must be booked at least one month in advance.
Headhunters’ TrailTREKKING
(Gunung Mulu National Park)
The physically undemanding Headhunters’ Trail continues on from Camp 5 for 11km in the direction of Limbang and is an overland alternative to flying in or out of Mulu. The park does not offer guided trips along this trail, but several private tour operators do, and it is also (theoretically) possible to do it without a guide.
4Sleeping
Options at park headquarters – a truly lovely spot – include a hostel (%085-792300; www.mulupark.com; dm incl breakfast RM55) that has 20 beds in a clean, spacious dormitory-style room (lockers available), as well as longhouse rooms (%085-792300; www.mulupark.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast RM221/260/293/331; a), rainforest lodge (%085-792300; www.mulupark.com; s/d incl breakfast RM268/312; a) and garden bungalows (%085-792300; www.mulupark.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast RM253/294/341; aW). Several budget places, unaffiliated with the park, can be found across the bridge from park headquarters, along the banks of Sungai Melinau. There are plenty of beds, so if you don’t mind very basic digs, you can fly up without worrying about room availability.
Mulu BackpackersGUESTHOUSE$
(%Helen 012-871 2947, Peter 013-846 7250; mulubackpackers@gmail.com; dm/d incl breakfast RM35/80)
Mulu Backpackers, situated just past the airport, occupies a picturesque spot by the river but is a 15-minute walk from the park. There is a pleasant sheltered outdoor dining area with views of the water and electricity from 6pm to 6am. The 11 beds here are arranged in a large, barn-like space with some randomly positioned partition walls.
D’Cave HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%Dina 012-872 9752; beckhamjunior40@yahoo.com; incl breakfast dm RM30, d without bathroom RM80)
A very friendly, rather ramshackle place with beds crammed into small rooms and basic, outdoor bathrooms. Owner Dina cooks buffet-style lunches (RM15) and dinners (RM18), and partner Robert is a licensed guide. There’s always boiled water for water-bottle refills. Situated between the airport and the turning for the park – about a 10-minute walk from each.
Mulu River LodgeHOSTEL$
(Edward Nyipa Homestay; %012-852 7471; dm/d/q incl breakfast RM35/70/140)
Has 30 beds, most in a giant, non-bunk dorm room equipped with clean showers and toilets at one end. Electricity flows from 5pm to midnight. One of the few guesthouses outside the park, if not the only one, with a proper septic system. Just a two-minute walk from park HQ, its kitchen supplies simple meals and beer.
5Eating
Café MuluINTERNATIONAL$$
(mains RM12-21; h7.30am-8.30pm)
This cafe-restaurant serves excellent breakfasts (eggs, pancakes, muesli) and a varied lunch and dinner menu with a few Western items, Indian curries and local dishes including Mulu laksa and umai (Sarawak sushi). A beer costs RM13 and wine is available. Staff are happy to prepare packed lunches.
Good Luck Cave’fe MuluMALAYSIAN$
(mains RM8-10; h11.30am-3pm & 5pm-midnight, kitchen closes at 9.15pm)
The Good Luck ‘Cave’fe’ Mulu (geddit?) is located right outside the park gates and stays open later than the park cafe, making it a good dinner option if you come back late from a night walk. Serves the usual noodle and fried-rice dishes. A beer costs RM9. Also good for transport to the airport (RM5).
8Information
For sums over RM100, the park accepts Visa and MasterCard. Staff can also do cash withdrawals of RM100 to RM300 (one transaction per day) for a 2% fee, but this depends on the available cash in the financial department, so try to bring enough cash to cover your expenses (there is no ATM in Mulu).
The shop and cafe area at park HQ has an excruciatingly slow and unreliable wi-fi connection (RM5 per day).
8Getting There & Away
Unless you hike in via the Headhunters’ Trail, the only way to get to Mulu is by MASwings (%085-206900; www.maswings.com.my; ground fl, Mulu Airport; h8.30am-5pm) plane.
MASwings flies 68-seat ATR 72-500 turboprops to Miri (daily at 10.15am and 2.40pm), Kuching (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday at 1.40pm; Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 2.15pm) and Kota Kinabalu (daily except Friday at 2.40pm via Miri; Sunday, Tuesday and Friday at 12.25pm).
Park HQ is a walkable 1.5km from the airport. Minibuses and SUVs run by Melinau Transportation (%012-852 6065, 012-871 1372; RM5 per person) and other companies meet incoming flights at the airport; transport to park HQ and the adjacent guesthouses costs RM5 per person.
Kelabit Highlands
Nestled in Sarawak’s remote northeastern corner, the mountains and rainforests of the Kelabit (keh-lah-bit) Highlands are sandwiched between Gunung Mulu National Park and the Indonesian state of East Kalimantan. The area is home to the Kelabits, an Orang Ulu group, and the semi-nomadic Penan. The main activity here is hiking from longhouse to longhouse on old forest trails to meet the locals.
Bario
POP 1200
The ‘capital’ of the highlands, Bario consists of about a dozen ‘villages’ spread over a beautiful valley, much of it given over to rice growing. Some of the appeal lies in the mountain climate (the valley is 1500m above sea level) and splendid isolation (the only access is by air and torturous 4WD track), but above all it’s the unforced hospitality of the Kelabit people that will quickly win you over.
1Sights & Activities
The area around Bario offers plenty of opportunities for jungle exploration even if you’re not a hardcore hiker. The nearby forests are a great place to spot pitcher plants, butterflies and even hornbills – and are an excellent venue for tiger leeches to spot you. Most guesthouses are happy to pack picnic lunches. The cost of a local guide is RM150 per day.
Bario Asal LonghouseHOUSE
(RM5)
This all-wood, 22-door longhouse has the traditional Kelabit layout. On the dapur (enclosed front verandah) each family has a hearth, while on the other side of the family units is the tawa’, a wide back verandah – essentially an enclosed hall over 100m long – used for weddings, funerals and celebrations and decorated with historic family photos.
Pa’ Umor MegalithsHISTORIC SITE
From Bario it’s a 1½-hour walk to Pa’ Umor, and another 15 minutes to Arur Bilit Farm, home to Batu Narit, an impressive stone carving featuring a human in a spread-eagled position among its designs.
Take the log bridge across the small river to reach Batu Ipak. According to legend, this stone formation was created when an angry warrior named Upai Semering pulled out his parang (machete) and took a wrathful swing at the rock, cutting it in two.
Prayer MountainHIKING
From the Bario Asal Longhouse, it’s a steep, slippery ascent (two hours) up to the summit of Prayer Mountain, which has a cross that was erected in 1973, thickets of pitcher plants and amazing views of the Bario Valley and of the mixed Penan and Kelabit hamlet of Arur Dalan, with its three defunct wind turbines. Two-thirds of the way up is an extremely rustic church.
4Sleeping & Eating
Bario’s various component villages are home to 19 guesthouses. Almost all rooms have shared bathroom facilities. There is usually no need to book ahead – available rooms outstrip the space available on flights, and guesthouse owners meet incoming flights at the airport.
Most guesthouses offer full board – almost always tasty local cuisine – but Bario also has several modest eateries.
Libal ParadiseGUESTHOUSE$
(%019-807 1640; roachas@hotmail.com; per person incl all meals RM85) S
Surrounded by a verdant fruit and vegetable garden where you can pick your own pineapples, this sustainably run farm offers accommodation in two neat wooden cabins, each occupying its own idyllic spot in the greenery. From the airport terminal, walk eastward along the road that parallels the runway. Management prefers text messaging to email for contact.
JunglebluesdreamGUESTHOUSE$
(%019-884 9892; www.junglebluesdream.weebly.com; Ulung Palang Longhouse, Bario; per person incl meals RM100)
Owned by artist and one-time guide Stephen Baya, a Bario native, and his friendly Danish wife Tine, this super-welcoming lodge (and art gallery) has four mural-decorated rooms, good-quality beds and quilts, a library of books on local culture and wildlife, and fantastic Kelabit food. Guests can consult Stephen’s extraordinary hand-drawn town and trekking maps. Airport pickup is free.
Bario Asal LonghouseHOMESTAY$
(%Julian 011-2508 1114; http://rangshomestayhandicraft.blogspot.com.au; per person incl meals RM90)
There are various homestays in this traditional longhouse, including a six-room guesthouse at Sinah Rang Lemulun. Staying at Bario Asal – which is home to 22 families – is a great way to experience longhouse living. Also available here are various ‘farmstay’ packages offering different rural experiences. Transport from the airport costs RM35.
8Information
At research time there were no banks, ATMs or credit-card facilities in the Kelabit Highlands, so bring plenty of small-denomination banknotes for accommodation, food and guides, plus some extra in case you get stranded.
The airport has free wi-fi and theres’s internet access at the Bario Telecentre (www.unimas.my/ebario; Gatuman Bario; per hr RM4; h9.30-11.30am & 2-4pm, closed Sat afternoon & Sun). The best Malaysian mobile-phone company to have up here is Celcom.
8Getting There & Away
Bario Airport (%013-835 9009; W) is linked with Miri twice a day by Twin Otters, operated by MASwings (%1300-88 3000; www.maswings.com.my). Weather, especially high winds, can sometimes cause delays and cancellations. Checked baggage is limited to 10kg, hand luggage to 5kg and passengers themselves are weighed on a giant scale, along with their hand luggage when they check in.
The airport is about a 30-minute walk south of the shop-houses, but you’re bound to be offered a lift on arrival.
The overland trip between Bario and Miri, possible only by 4WD (per person RM150), takes 12 hours at the very least and sometimes a lot more.
UNDERSTAND MALAYSIA
Malaysia Today
National tragedies and political troubles have impacted Malaysia in recent years. Passenger airplanes have fallen from the sky and an earthquake struck Sabah killing 18 people. For several years, former Prime Minister Najib Razak battled allegations of corruption and a faltering economy. The 2018 general election flipped Malaysian politics on its head when the Barisan Nasional party (BN; National Front) lost to the opposition party led by Dr. Mahathir Mohamad. The oldest prime minister in the world, 92-year-old Mahathir took his seat as head of government for his second tenure. Anwar Ibrahim, a Malaysian politician jailed twice, first by former nemesis Mahathir then again by former Prime Minister Najib, is expected to succeed Mahathir within two years, having received a royal pardon by the king for his alleged crimes.
History
Early Influences
The earliest evidence of human life in the region is a 40,000-year-old skull found in Sarawak’s Niah Caves. But it was only around 10,000 years ago that the aboriginal Malays, the Orang Asli, began moving down the peninsula from a probable starting point in southwestern China.
By the 2nd century AD Europeans were familiar with Malaya, and Indian traders had made regular visits in their search for gold, tin and jungle woods. Within the next century Malaya was ruled by the Funan empire, centred in what’s now Cambodia, but more significant was the domination of the Sumatra-based Srivijayan empire between the 7th and 13th centuries.
In 1405 Chinese admiral Cheng Ho arrived in Melaka with promises to the locals of protection from the Siamese encroaching from the north. With Chinese support, the power of Melaka extended to include most of the Malay Peninsula. Islam arrived in Melaka around this time and soon spread through Malaya.
European Influence
Melaka’s wealth and prosperity attracted European interest and it was taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, then the Dutch in 1641 and the British in 1795.
In 1838 James Brooke, a British adventurer, arrived to find the Brunei sultanate fending off rebellion from inland tribes. Brooke quashed the rebellion and in reward was granted power over part of Sarawak. Appointing himself Raja Brooke, he founded a dynasty that lasted 100 years. By 1881 Sabah was controlled by the British government, which eventually acquired Sarawak after WWII when the third Raja Brooke realised he couldn’t afford the area’s upkeep. In the early 20th century the British brought in Chinese and Indians, which radically changed the country’s racial make-up.
Independence to the Current Day
Malaya achieved merdeka (independence) in 1957, but it was followed by a period of instability due to an internal Communist uprising and an external confrontation with neighbouring Indonesia. In 1963 the north Borneo states of Sabah and Sarawak, along with Singapore, joined Malaya to create Malaysia.
The results of the 1969 election were used as a pretext for the subsequent violent interracial riots across the country, but particularly in Kuala Lumpur, where hundreds of people were killed. In the aftermath the government moved to dissipate the tensions, which existed mainly between the Malays and the Chinese.
In 1973 Barisan Nasional (BN; National Front), a coalition of right-wing and centre parties, was formed – it has ruled Malaysia ever since. Under outspoken, dictatorial Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad, Malaysia’s economy grew at a rate of over 8% per year until mid-1997, when the whole of Southeast Asia plunged into recession. In October 2003 Dr Mahathir Mohamad retired, handing power to Abdullah Badawi, who won the general election in March 2004.
In the next election in 2008, BN saw its parliamentary dominance slashed. The inroads were made by Pakatan Rakyat (PR), the opposition People’s Alliance, later dismantled and succeeded by the Pakatan Harapan (PH), led by Anwar Ibrahim, a former deputy PM who had been jailed on corruption and sodomy charges that were widely regarded as politically motivated. Abdullah Badawi resigned in favour of Najib Razak, who would go on to win the 2013 election for BN, although it was the coalition’s poorest showing in the polls since 1969.
In 2014 Malaysian Airlines lost two of its passenger aeroplanes in tragic circumstances, with a combined death toll of 537. An earthquake struck Sabah on 5 June 2015 and claimed the lives of 18 people on Mt Kinabalu, shutting down the mountain to tourists for months.
People & Culture
Lifestyle
The kampung (village) is at the heart of the Malay world and operates according to a system of adat (customary law) that emphasises collective rather than individual responsibility. Devout worship of Islam and older spiritual beliefs go hand in hand with this precept. However, despite the mutually supportive nature of the kampung environment, and growing Westernisation across Malaysia, some very conservative interpretations of Islam continue in certain areas, particularly along the peninsula’s east coast.
Population
Malaysians come from a number of different ethnic groups: Malays, Chinese, Indians, the indigenous Orang Asli (literally, ‘Original People’) of the peninsula, and the various tribes of Sarawak and Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. The mixing of these groups has created the colourful cultures and delicious cuisine that makes Malaysia such a fabulous destination.
It’s reasonable to generalise that the Malays control the government while the Chinese dominate the economy. Approximately 85% of the country’s population of 32 million people lives in Peninsular Malaysia and the other 15% in Sabah and Sarawak on Borneo.
There are still small, scattered groups of Orang Asli in Peninsular Malaysia. Although most of these people have given up their nomadic or shifting-agriculture techniques and have been absorbed into modern Malay society, a few such groups still live in the forests.
Dayak is the term used for the non-Muslim people of Borneo. It is estimated there are more than 200 Dayak tribes in Borneo, including the Iban and Bidayuh in Sarawak and the Kadazan in Sabah. Smaller groups include the Kenyah, Kayan and Penan, whose way of life and traditional lands are rapidly disappearing.
Religion
Malays are almost all Muslims. But despite Islam being the state religion, freedom of religion is guaranteed. The Chinese are predominantly followers of Taoism and Buddhism, though some are Christians. The majority of the region’s Indian population comes from the south of India and are Hindu and Christian, although a sizeable percentage are Muslim.
While Christianity has made no great inroads into Peninsular Malaysia, it has had a much greater impact in Malaysian Borneo, where many indigenous people have converted and carry Christian as well as traditional names. Others still follow animist traditions.
THE PERANAKANS
One of Malaysia’s most celebrated cultures is that of the Peranakans, descendants of Chinese immigrants who, from the 16th century onwards, settled in Singapore, Melaka and Penang. While these arrivals often married Malay women, others imported their wives from China; all of them like to refer to themselves as Straits-born or Straits Chinese to distinguish themselves from later arrivals from China. Another name you may hear for these people is Baba-Nonyas, after the Peranakan words for males (baba) and females (nonya).
The Peranakans took the religion of the Chinese, but the customs, language and dress of the Malays. The Peranakans were often wealthy traders who could afford to indulge their passion for sumptuous furnishings, jewellery and brocades. Today they are most famous for their delicious fusion cooking that’s best experienced in Melaka and Penang.
Arts
It’s along the predominantly Malay east coast of Peninsular Malaysia that you’ll find Malay arts and crafts, culture and games at their liveliest. Malaysian Borneo is replete with the arts and crafts of the country’s indigenous peoples.
ARTS & CRAFTS
A famous Malaysian Bornean art is pua kumbu, a colourful weaving technique used to produce both everyday and ceremonial items.
The most skilled woodcarvers are generally held to be the Kenyah and Kayan peoples, who used to carve enormous, finely detailed kelirieng (burial columns) from tree trunks.
Originally an Indonesian craft, the production of batik cloth is popular in Malaysia and has its home in Kelantan. A speciality of Kelantan and Terengganu, kain songket is a handwoven fabric with gold and silver threads through the material. Mengkuang is a far more prosaic form of weaving using pandanus leaves and strips of bamboo to make baskets, bags and mats.
DANCE
Menora is a dance-drama of Thai origin performed by an all-male cast in grotesque masks; mak yong is the female version. The upbeat joget (better known around Melaka as chakuncha) is Malaysia’s most popular traditional dance, often performed at Malay weddings by professional dancers.
Rebana kercing is a dance performed by young men to the accompaniment of tambourines. The rodat is a dance from Terengganu and is accompanied by the tar drum.
MUSIC
Traditional Malay music is based largely on the gendang (drum), of which there are more than a dozen types. Other percussion instruments include the gong, cerucap (made of shells), raurau (coconut shells), kertuk and pertuang (both made from bamboo), and the wooden celampang.
Wind instruments include a number of types of flute (such as the seruling and serunai) and the trumpetlike nafiri, while stringed instruments include the biola, gambus and sundatang.
The gamelan, a traditional Indonesian gong-orchestra, is also found in the state of Kelantan, where a typical ensemble will comprise four different gongs, two xylophones and a large drum.
TRAVEL HINTS
AMalaysia is a Muslim country, so dress appropriately by covering everything to the knees and over the shoulders.
AAirfares can be so cheap around Borneo that flying is sometimes cheaper than bussing.
Food & Drink
Food
The delicious food you’ll enjoy in Malaysia strongly reflects the country’s Malay, Chinese and Indian influences.
There are fewer culinary choices outside the cities, where staple meals of mee goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice) predominate. Vegetarian dishes are usually available at both Malay and Indian cafes, but are hardly sighted at kedai kopi (coffee shops). You can also find an excellent selection of fruit and vegetables at markets.
Roti canai (flaky flat bread dipped in a small amount of dhal and potato curry) is probably the cheapest meal (around RM1.50). But really everything, from seafood laksa to the freshly caught and cooked wild cat or mouse deer you may be offered at a longhouse, is good and often cheap.
Halfway between a drink and a dessert is ais kacang, something similar to an old-fashioned snow-cone, except that the shaved ice is topped with syrups and condensed milk, and it’s all piled on top of a foundation of beans and jellies (sometimes corn kernels). It tastes terrific.
Drink
Tap water is safe to drink in many big cities, but check with locals if you’re unsure.
With the aid of a blender and crushed ice, simple and delicious juice concoctions are whipped up in seconds. Lurid soybean drinks are sold at street stalls and soybean milk is also available in soft-drink bottles. Medicinal teas are a big hit with the health-conscious Chinese.
A mug of beer at a kedai kopi will cost around RM7, and around RM15 at bars and clubs. Anchor and Tiger beers are popular, as are locally brewed Carlsberg and Guinness. Indigenous people have a soft spot for tuak (rice wine), which tends to revolt first-timers but is apparently an acquired taste. Another rural favourite is the dark-coloured spirit arak, which is smooth and potent.
Environment
The Land
Malaysia covers 329,874 sq km and consists of two distinct regions. Peninsular Malaysia is the long finger of land extending south from Asia and though the mountainous northern half has some dense jungle coverage, unprotected forests are getting cut down at an alarming rate, mostly to create oil palm plantations. The peninsula’s western side has a large fertile plain running to the sea, while the eastern side is fringed with sandy beaches. Malaysian Borneo consists of Sarawak and Sabah; both states are covered in thick jungle and have extensive river systems. Sabah is crowned by Mt Kinabalu (4095m), the highest mountain between the Himalaya and New Guinea.
Wildlife
Malaysia’s ancient rainforests are endowed with a cornucopia of life forms. In Peninsular Malaysia alone there are over 8000 species of flowering plants, including the world’s tallest tropical tree species, the tualang. In Malaysian Borneo, where hundreds of new species have been discovered since the 1990s, you’ll find the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia, measuring up to 1m across, as well as the world’s biggest cockroach. Mammals include elephants, tapirs, tigers, leopards, honey bears, tempadau (forest cattle), pangolins (scaly anteaters) and monkeys, gibbons and apes (including, in Borneo, the proboscis monkey and orangutans). Colourful bird species include kingfishers, sunbirds, woodpeckers, barbets, spectacular pheasants and sacred hornbills. Snakes include cobras, vipers and pythons. Of the world’s seven species of turtle, four are native to Malaysia: the hawksbill, green, olive Ridley and giant leatherback.
National Parks
Malaysia’s 23 national parks cover barely 5% of the country’s landmass. The country’s major national park is Taman Negara, on the peninsula, while Gunung Mulu and Kinabalu are the two main parks in Sarawak and Sabah, respectively. Especially on Borneo, the rarity and uniqueness of local flora and fauna is such that scientists – from dragonfly experts to palm-tree specialists – are regular visitors and vocal proponents of new parks and reserves both on land and in the surrounding waters. There are also 13 marine parks in Malaysia, notably around Pulau Perhentian, Tioman and Sipadan, although enforcement of protection measures is very loose.
Environmental Issues
There’s a disparity between government figures and those of environmental groups, but it’s probable that up to 80% of Malaysia’s rainforests have been logged. There have also been huge environmental consequences as vast swathes of land have been razed and planted with lucrative oil palm; Malaysia accounts for over 40% of global production of palm oil.
The crown of eco and social irresponsibility goes to Bakun Dam in Sarawak, which flooded some 690 sq km (the size of Singapore) of some of the world’s most diverse rainforest in late 2010 and forced up to 10,000 indigenous peoples from their homes. The dam has been criticised as being corrupt, ill-planned and unnecessary, but the state already has plans to build more dams in the region.
SURVIVAL GUIDE
8Directory A–Z
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
The following can be brought into Malaysia duty free:
A1L of alcohol
A225g of tobacco (200 cigarettes or 50 cigars)
Asouvenirs and gifts not exceeding RM200 (RM500 when coming from Labuan or Langkawi)
Cameras, portable radios, perfume, cosmetics and watches do not incur duty. Prohibited items include weapons (including imitations), fireworks and ‘obscene and prejudicial articles’ (pornography, for example, and items that may be considered inflammatory, or religiously offensive) and drugs. Drug smuggling carries the death penalty in Malaysia.
Visitors can carry no more than the equivalent of US$10,000 in ringgit or any other currency in and out of Malaysia.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with attached bathroom:
$ less than RM100
$$ RM100–RM400
$$$ more than RM400
ELECTRICITY
Malaysia’s electricity is 240V, 50Hz; power outlets have three flat pins.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
For a full list of Malaysian embassies and consulates outside the country check out www.kln.gov.my. Most foreign embassies are in Kuala Lumpur and are generally open 8am to 12.30pm and 1.30pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday.
Australian High Commission (MAP; %03-2146 5555; http://malaysia.highcommission.gov.au; 6 Jln Yap Kwan Seng; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; LRT KLCC)
Canadian High Commission (%03-2718 3333; www.canadainternational.gc.ca; 17th fl, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jln Tun Razak; h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12.30pm Fri; LRT Ampang Park)
Dutch Embassy (%03-2168 6200; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl/landen/maleisie; 7th fl, South Block, The Amp Walk, 218 Jln Ampang; h8.30-11am Mon-Thu; LRT Ampang Park)
French Embassy (%03-2053 5500; www.ambafrance-my.org; Level 31, Integra Tower, 348 Jln Tun Razak; h8.45am-1pm & 2-5.15pm Mon-Fri; LRT Ampang Park)
German Embassy (%03-2170 9666; www.kuala-lumpur.diplo.de; 26th fl, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jln Tun Razak; h9am-noon Mon-Fri & 1-3pm Thu; LRT Ampang Park)
Irish Embassy (%03-2167 8200; www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/malaysia; 5th fl, South Block, The Amp Walk, 218 Jln Ampang; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-3.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-12.30pm Fri; LRT Ampang Park)
New Zealand High Commission (MAP; %03-2078 2533; www.nzembassy.com/malaysia; Level 21, Menara IMC, 8 Jln Sultan Ismail; h8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 
DBukit Nanas)
UK High Commission (MAP; %03-2170 2200; www.gov.uk/world/malaysia; Level 27 Menara Binjai, 2 Jln Binjai; h8am-12.30pm daily, 1.15-4.30pm Mon-Thu; LRT Ampang Park)
US Embassy (%03-2168 5000; https://my.usembassy.gov; 376 Jln Tun Razak; h7.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; LRT Ampang Park)
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
There are many cultures and religions coexisting in Malaysia, which means there are many occasions for celebration throughout the year.
Ramadan is the major annual Muslim event – 30 days during which Muslims cannot eat, drink, smoke or have sex from sunrise to sunset. The dates of Ramadan change every year; in 2019 it starts on 5 May and in 2020 on 23 April.
Chinese New Year (January/February) The most important celebration for the Chinese community is marked with dragon dances and street parades.
Thaipusam (January/February) One of the most dramatic Hindu festivals, in which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing physical resilience. Self-mutilating worshippers make the procession from Sri Mahamariamman Temple in KL to the Batu Caves.
Malaysian Grand Prix (March/April) Formula One’s big outing in Southeast Asia is held at the Sepang International Circuit in Selangor either at the end of March or early April.
Gawai Dayak (late May/early June) Festival of the Dayaks in Sarawak, marking the end of the rice season. War dances, cock fights and blowpipe events take place.
Festa de San Pedro (June) Christian celebration on 29 June in honour of the patron saint of the fishing community; notably celebrated by the Eurasian-Portuguese community of Melaka.
Dragon Boat Festival (June to August) Celebrated in Penang.
Rainforest World Music Festival (July/August) Held for three days at the Sarawak Cultural Village, this music and arts festival features musicians from around the world and highlights indigenous music from Borneo.
National Day (Hari Kebangsaan) (August) Malaysia celebrates its independence on 31 August with events all over the country, but particularly in KL where there are parades and a variety of performances in the Lake Gardens.
Moon Cake Festival (September) Chinese festival celebrating the overthrow of Mongol warlords in ancient China with the eating of moon cakes and the lighting of colourful paper lanterns.
Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods (October) Involves nine days of Chinese operas, processions and other events honouring the nine emperor gods.
Deepavali (October/November) The Festival of Lights, in which tiny oil lamps are lit outside Hindu homes; celebrates Rama’s victory over the demon King Ravana.
LGBT TRAVELLERS
Conservative political parties and religious groups make a regular habit of denouncing gays and lesbians in Malaysia, a country where it is illegal for men of any age to have sex with other men. This said, outright persecution of gays and lesbians in the country is rare. Nonetheless, while in Malaysia, gay and lesbian travellers (particularly the former) should avoid any behaviour that attracts unwanted attention.
Visit www.utopia-asia.com, which provides good coverage of gay and lesbian events and activities in the country.
INTERNET ACCESS
Malaysia is blanketed with hot spots for wi-fi connections (usually free). Internet cafes are much less common these days, but do still exist if you’re not travelling with a wi-fi enabled device. Only in the jungles and the most remote reaches of the peninsula and Malaysian Borneo are you likely to be without any internet access.
LEGAL MATTERS
In any dealings with the local police it will pay to be deferential. You’re most likely to come into contact with them either through reporting a crime (some of the big cities in Malaysia have tourist police stations for this purpose) or while driving. Minor misdemeanours may be overlooked, but don’t count on it.
Drug trafficking carries a mandatory death penalty. A number of foreigners have been executed in Malaysia, some of them for possession of amazingly small quantities of heroin. Even possession of tiny amounts can bring down a lengthy jail sentence and a beating with the rotan (cane). Just don’t do it.
MONEY
Bargaining is not usually required for everyday goods in Malaysia, but feel free to bargain when purchasing souvenirs, antiques and other tourist items, even when the prices are displayed. Transport prices are generally fixed, but negotiation is required for trishaws and taxis around town or for charter.
Tipping is not common in Malaysia.
OPENING HOURS
Banks 10am–3pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am–11.30am Saturday
Cafes 8am–10pm
Restaurants noon–2.30pm and 6pm–10.30pm
Shops 9.30am–7pm, malls 10am–10pm
In the more Islamic-minded states of Kedah, Perlis, Kelantan and Terengganu, government offices, banks and many shops close on Friday and on Saturday afternoon.
POST
Post offices are open from 8am to 5pm daily except Sunday and public holidays (also closed on Friday in Kedah, Kelantan and Terengganu districts).
Aerograms and postcards cost 50 sen to send to any destination, letters from RM1.20, parcels from RM20 for 1kg.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
In addition to national public holidays, each state has its own holidays, usually associated with the sultan’s birthday or a Muslim celebration. Muslim holidays move forward 10 or 11 days each year. Hindu and Chinese holiday dates also vary, but fall roughly within the same months each year.
As well as fixed secular holidays, various religious festivals (which change dates annually) are national holidays. These include Chinese New Year (in January/February), the Hindu festival of Deepavali (in October/November), the Buddhist festival of Wesak (April/May) and the Muslim festivals of Hari Raya Haji, Hari Raya Puasa, Mawlid al-Nabi and Awal Muharram (Muslim New Year).
Fixed annual holidays include the following:
New Year’s Day 1 January
Federal Territory Day 1 February (in Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya only)
Good Friday March or April (in Sarawak & Sabah only)
Labour Day 1 May
Yang di-Pertuan Agong’s (King’s) Birthday 1st Saturday in June
Governor of Penang’s Birthday 2nd Saturday in July (in Penang only)
National Day (Hari Kebangsaan) 31 August
Malaysia Day 16 September
Christmas Day 25 December
SAFE TRAVEL
Malaysia is generally a safe country to travel in, and compared with Indonesia or Thailand it’s extremely safe.
ATheft and violence are not particularly common, although it pays to keep a close eye on your belongings, especially your travel documents (passport, traveller’s cheques etc), which should be kept with you at all times.
ACredit-card fraud is a growing problem. Use your cards only at established businesses and guard your credit-card numbers closely.
AThe main thing to watch out for is animal and insect bites.
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a two-course meal including a soft drink.
$ less than RM15
$$ RM15–RM60
$$$ more than RM60
TELEPHONE
If you have arranged global roaming with your home provider, your GSM digital phone will automatically tune into one of the region’s networks. If not, buy a prepaid SIM card (passport required) for one of the local networks on arrival.
The rate for local calls and text messages is around 36 sen.
There are three main mobile-phone companies, all with similar call rates and prepaid packages:
Celcom (www.celcom.com.my) This is the best company to use if you’ll be spending time in remote regions of Sabah and Sarawak.
DiGi (http://new.digi.com.my)
Maxis (www.maxis.com.my)
TOILETS
Although there are still some places with Asian squat-style toilets, you’ll most often find Western-style ones these days. At public facilities toilet paper is not usually provided. Instead, you will find a hose which you are supposed to use as a bidet or, in cheaper places, a bucket of water and a tap. If you’re not comfortable with this, remember to take packets of tissues or toilet paper wherever you go.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourism Malaysia (www.tourism.gov.my) has a network of overseas offices, which are useful for pre-departure planning. Unfortunately, its domestic offices are less helpful. Nonetheless, they do stock some decent brochures as well as the excellent Map of Malaysia.
Within Malaysia there are also a number of state tourism-promotion organisations, which often have more detailed information about specific areas.
Sabah Tourism (www.sabahtourism.com)
Pahang Tourism (www.pahangtourism.org.my)
Perak Tourism (www.peraktourism.com.my)
Sarawak Tourism (http://sarawaktourism.com)
Penang Tourism (www.visitpenang.gov.my)
Tourism Johor (http://tourism.johor.my)
Tourism Selangor (www.tourismselangor.my)
Tourism Terengganu (http://tourism.terengganu.gov.my)
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
For the mobility impaired, Malaysia can be a nightmare. In many cities and towns there are often no footpaths, kerbs are very high, construction sites are everywhere, and crossings are few and far between. On the upside, taxis are cheap and both Malaysia Airlines and KTM (the national rail service) offer 50% discounts on travel for travellers with disabilities.
VISAS
Visitors must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Malaysia. The following gives a brief overview of other requirements – full details of visa regulations are available at www.kln.gov.my.
Depending on the expected length of their stay, most visitors are given a 30- or 60-day visa on arrival. As a general rule, if you arrive by air you will be given 60 days automatically, though coming overland you may be given 30 days unless you specifically ask for a 60-day permit. It’s possible to get an extension at an immigration office in Malaysia for a total stay of up to three months.
Only under special circumstances can Israeli citizens enter Malaysia.
Both Sabah and Sarawak retain a certain degree of state-level control of their borders. Tourists must go through passport control and have their passports stamped whenever they:
Aarrive in Sabah or Sarawak from Peninsular Malaysia or the federal district of Pulau Labuan;
Aexit Sabah or Sarawak on their way to Peninsular Malaysia or Pulau Labuan;
Atravel between Sabah and Sarawak.
When entering Sabah or Sarawak from another part of Malaysia, your new visa stamp will be valid only for the remainder of the period left on your original Malaysian visa. In Sarawak, an easy way to extend your visa is to make a ‘visa run’ to Brunei or Indonesia (through the Tebedu–Entikong land crossing).
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Dressing modestly and being respectful, especially in areas of stronger Muslim religious sensibilities such as the northeastern states of Peninsula Malaysia, will ensure you travel with minimum hassle. When visiting mosques, cover your head and limbs with a headscarf and sarong (many mosques lend these out at the entrance). At the beach, most Malaysian women swim fully clothed in T-shirts and shorts, so don’t even think about going topless.
Be proactive about your own safety. Treat overly friendly strangers, both male and female, with a good deal of caution. Take taxis after dark and avoid walking alone at night in quiet or seedy parts of town.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The bulk of international flights arrive at Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA; www.klia.com.my), 75km south of Kuala Lumpur (KL); it has two terminals, with KLIA2 being used mainly by budget airlines (KLIA2 is AirAsia’s hub). There are also direct flights from Asia and Australia into Penang, Kuching, Kota Kinabalu and a few other cities. Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) is the national carrier.
LAND
Visas on arrival are available for land crossings into Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand.
SEA
Indonesia
The following are the main ferry routes between Indonesia and Malaysia.
ABengkalis (Sumatra) to Melaka
APulau Batam to Johor Bahru
ADumai (Sumatra) to Melaka
AMedan (Sumatra) to Penang
APekanbaru (Sumatra) to Melaka
ATanjung Pinang Bintan to Johor Bahru
ATanjung Balai (Sumatra) to Pelabuhan Klang and Kukup
ATarakan (Kalimantan) to Tawau
Singapore
Singapore has a number of regular ferry connections to Malaysia. Cruise trips in the region are also very popular with locals.
Thailand
Ferries connect Kuah on Pulau Langkawi with Satun on the Thai coast and, from November to mid-May, with Ko Lipe; make sure you get your passport stamped going in either direction.
8Getting Around
AIR
The two main domestic operators are Malaysia Airlines (MAS; %1300 883 000, international 03-7843 3000; www.malaysiaairlines.com) and AirAsia (%600 85 8888; www.airasia.com).
The Malaysia Airlines subsidiary Firefly (%03-7845 4543; www.fireflyz.com.my) has flights from KL (SkyPark Subang Terminal) to Ipoh, Johor Bahru, Kerteh, Kota Bharu, Kuala Terengganu, Langkawi and Penang. It also runs connections between Penang and Langkawi, Kuantan and Kota Bharu, Ipoh and JB, and JB and Kota Bharu. Malindo Air (%03-7841 5388; www.malindoair.com) also has a wide range of connections between many Malaysian cities and towns.
In Malaysian Borneo, Malaysia Airlines’ subsidiary MASwings offers local flights within and between Sarawak and Sabah; it’s main hub is Miri.
BICYCLE
Bicycle touring around Malaysia and neighbouring countries is an increasingly popular activity. The main road system is well engineered and has good surfaces, but the secondary road system is limited. Road conditions are good enough for touring bikes in most places, but mountain bikes are recommended for forays off the beaten track.
KL Bike Hash (http://klmbh.org) has a whole load of useful information and links to other cycling-connected sites in Malaysia. Also see Bicycle Touring Malaysia (www.bicycletouringmalaysia.com).
BOAT
There are no services connecting Peninsular Malaysia with Malaysian Borneo. On a local level, there are boats and ferries between the peninsula and offshore islands, and along the rivers of Sabah and Sarawak. Note that some ferry operators are notoriously lax about observing safety rules, and local authorities are often nonexistent. If a boat looks overloaded or otherwise unsafe, do not board it – no one else will look out for your safety.
BUS
Bus travel in Malaysia is economical and generally comfortable. Seats can be paid for and reserved either directly with operators or via online sites such www.easybook.com. Some bus drivers speed recklessly, resulting in frequent, often fatal, accidents.
Konsortium Transnasional Berhad (www.ktb.com.my) is Malaysia’s largest bus operator running services under the Transnasional (%03-4047 7878; www.transnasional.com.my), Nice (MAP; %013-220 7867; www.nice-coaches.com.my; 
dKuala Lumpur), Plusliner and Cityliner (%03-4047 7878; www.cityliner.com.my) brands. Its services tend to be slower than rivals, but its buses have also been involved in several major accidents. It has competition from a variety of privately operated buses on the longer domestic routes, including Aeroline (www.aeroline.com.my) and Super Nice (www.supernice.com.my). There are so many buses on major runs that you can often turn up and get a seat on the next bus.
Most long-distance buses have air-con, often turned to frigid, so bring a sweater!
In larger towns there may be a number of bus stations; local/regional buses often operate from one station and long-distance buses from another; in other cases, KL for example, bus stations are differentiated by the destinations they serve.
Bus travel off the beaten track is relatively straightforward. Small towns and kampung (villages) all over the country are serviced by public buses. Unfortunately, they are often poorly signed and sometimes the only way to find your bus is to ask a local. These buses are invariably dirt cheap and provide a great sample of rural life. In most towns there are no ticket offices, so buy your ticket from the conductor after you board.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving in Malaysia is fantastic compared with most Asian countries. There has been a lot of investment in the country’s roads, which are generally of a high quality. New cars for hire are commonly available and fuel is inexpensive (around RM2.20 per litre).
It’s not all good news, though. Driving in the cities, particularly KL, can be a nightmare, due to traffic and confusing one-way systems. Malaysian drivers aren’t always the safest when it comes to obeying road rules – they mightn’t be as reckless as drivers elsewhere in Southeast Asia, but they still take risks. For example, hardly any of the drivers keep to the official 110km/h speed limit on the main highways and tailgating is a common problem.
Unlimited distance rental rates for a 1.3L Proton Saga, one of the cheapest and most popular cars in Malaysia, are posted at around RM190/RM1320 per day/week, including insurance and collision-damage waiver.
HITCHING
Keep in mind hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Taxis are found in all large cities, and most have meters – although you can’t always rely on the drivers to use them.
Bicycle rickshaws (trishaws) supplement the taxi service in George Town and Melaka and are definitely handy ways of getting around the older parts of town, which have convoluted and narrow streets.
In major cities there are also buses, which are extremely cheap and convenient once you figure out which one is going your way. KL also has commuter trains, a Light Rail Transit (LRT) and a monorail system.
In Malaysian Borneo, once you’re out of the big cities, you’re basically on your own and must either walk or hitch. If you’re really in the bush, of course, riverboats and aeroplanes are the only alternatives to lengthy jungle treks.
TRAIN
Malaysia’s national railway company is Keretapi Tanah Melayu. It runs a modern, comfortable and economical railway service, although there are basically only two lines.
One line runs up the west coast from Johor Bharu, through KL on into Thailand; there’s a short spur off this line for Butterworth – the jumping-off point for the island of Penang. Line two branches off the first line at Gemas and runs through Kuala Lipis up to the northeastern corner of the country near Kota Bharu in Kelantan. Often referred to as the ‘jungle railway’, this line is properly known as the ‘East Line’.
On the west-coast line, a speedy electric train service now runs between Gemas and Padang Besar on the Thai border. Full electrification on this side of the peninsula is expected to be completed by 2020.