Malaysia
Kuala Lumpur
Peninsular Malaysia – West Coast
Melaka City
Cameron Highlands
Ipoh
Penang
Alor Setar
Pulau Langkawi
Peninsular Malaysia – South & East Coast
Johor Bahru
Mersing
Pulau Tioman
Kuantan
Cherating
Kuala Terengganu
Kuala Besut
Pulau Perhentian
Kota Bharu
Peninsular Interior
Jerantut
Taman Negara
Malaysian Borneo – Sabah
Kota Kinabalu
Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park
Sandakan
Sepilok
Sungai Kinabatangan
Semporna
Semporna Archipelago
Pulau Labuan
Malaysian Borneo – Sarawak
Kuching
Sibu
Batang Rejang
Bintulu
Niah National Park
Lambir Hills National Park
Miri
Gunung Mulu National Park
Kelabit Highlands
Understand Malaysia
Survival Guide
Malaysia
%60 / Pop 32 million
Why Go?
Buzzing cities, culinary sensations, beautiful beaches, idyllic islands and wildlife-packed rainforests – all of this can be found in Malaysia. The catchy slogan ‘Malaysia, Truly Asia’ continues to ring true. The multicultural peninsula tantalises all five senses with Malay, Chinese and Indian influences. The photogenic landscapes continue across the South China Sea to Malaysian Borneo with its remote tribes, orangutans, colourful birds and amazing limestone caves. Architecture ranges from the soaring skyscrapers and glitzy shopping malls of Kuala Lumpur to the jungle-surrounded longhouse villages of Sarawak. The supreme expression of the national diversity is its amazing range of delicious culinary offerings featuring tropical fruits and vegetables and an impressive bounty of seafood. Start with Chinese-Malay ‘Nonya’ fare, then move on to Indian curries, Chinese buffets and Malay food stalls. The icing on the cake is that Malaysia is one of the safest, most stable and manageable countries in Southeast Asia.
When to Go
- Dec–Feb High season: school holidays and Chinese New Year. Prices rise; bookings essential.
- Nov–Mar Monsoon season sees many east-coast peninsular islands shut; Cherating fills with surfers.
- Mar–Jun Low season: plenty of rain and fewer tourists. Ramadan food bazaars open at night.
Best for Regional Specialities
APenang, for asam laksa
AMelaka for satay celup
AKuching for Sarawak laksa
ACameron Highlands for tea
Top Phrases
Hello Salam/Helo
Thank you Terima kasih
How much is it? Berapa harganya?
Entering the Country
The bulk of international flights arrive at Kuala Lumpur. There are also direct flights from Asia and Australia into Penang, Kuching, Kota Kinabalu and a few other cities. There are rail and road connections with Thailand and Singapore, and buses connect Malaysia’s Sabah and Sarawak with both Brunei Darussalam and Indonesia (Kalimantan). Ferries connect Malaysia with Indonesia, Brunei Darussalam, Singapore and Thailand.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
Peninsular Malaysia’s west coast features the modern capital of Kuala Lumpur, multicultural Melaka and the colourful colonial heritage of Penang’s George Town. All cities boast a thriving street-food scene. To escape the city hustle, head to the tea-infused Cameron Highlands or a picture-perfect beach resort.
Malaysian Borneo lures travellers with the chance to climb one of Southeast Asia’s tallest mountains and come face to face with gentle orangutans. Exploring beneath Borneo’s surface reveals Sarawak’s world-heritage limestone caves and the fabled scuba diving surrounding Sabah’s Semporna Archipelago.
Essential Food & Drink
Breakfast Nasi lemak (coconut rice with a variety of accompaniments), roti canai (Indian flat bread), won ton mee (egg noodles and wontons), dim sum or congee (savoury rice porridge).
Barbecue Fish, lobster, prawns, squid, cockles and stingrays. Point to it and then see it get slathered in sambal and grilled in a banana leaf.
Noodles Fried or in soup. Top dishes include char kway teow (fried noodles with egg, soy sauce, chilli and a variety of additions), laksa, curry mee (curry noodles), Hokkien mee (fried noodles with chicken, pork and a variety of additions) and won ton mee.
Rice Nasi campur is a lunch favourite of rice and a buffet of toppings.
Dessert Malaysians drink their sweets via sugared fruit juices, sweetened condensed milk in hot beverages and icy concoctions like ABC (shaved ice covered in coconut cream, coloured syrups, jellies and sweet red beans).
Daily Costs
ADorm bed: RM15–50
AHawker centres and food-court meals: RM5–7
AMetro ticket: RM1–2.50
AT A GLANCE
Currency Malaysian ringitt (RM)
Language Bahasa Malaysia (official), Chinese (Hakka and Hokkien), Tamil, English
Money ATMs in large towns
Visas Most nationalities get a 30- to 90-day visa on arrival
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | RM3.07 |
| Euro zone | €1 | RM4.68 |
| Singapore | S$1 | RM3.06 |
| Thailand | 10B | RM1.21 |
| UK | UK£1 | RM6.63 |
| USA | US$1 | RM4.30 |
Top Tips
ADress modestly, especially in the northeastern states of Peninsula Malaysia.
AWhen visiting mosques, cover your head and limbs with a headscarf and sarong (many mosques lend these out at the entrance).
ACompare the cost of flying into Singapore versus flying into Malaysia. From Singapore you can cheaply travel overland to Peninsular Malaysia, and Singapore also has direct flights to Malaysian Borneo.
AIf time is limited, consider Malaysia’s very reasonably priced domestic flights.
ACredit-card fraud is a growing problem. Use your cards only at established businesses.
ASeek treatment if bitten by any animals (Rabies risk).
Malaysia Highlights
1 Penang Exploring George Town’s heritage district while grazing on street food.
2 Pulau Perhentian Swimming, lying on the beach, snorkelling, eating and snoozing.
3 Mt Kinabalu Hiking past moonscapes for sunrise atop the granite peak.
4 Semporna Archipelago Diving technicolour coral gardens withsealife.
5 Kuala Lumpur Admiring the view from the KL Tower or the Heli Lounge Bar.
6 Pulau Tioman Hopping between idyllic beach villages and diving reefs.
7 Cameron Highlands Admiring the verdant, rolling tea plantations.
8 Gunung Mulu National Park Exploring the World Heritage limestone caverns.
9 Bario Sipping wild tea on a longhouse verandah.
KUALA LUMPUR
%03 / Population 1.73 million
From a humble tin-mining base over 150 years ago, Kuala Lumpur (KL) has evolved into an affluent 21st-century metropolis remarkable for its cultural diversity. Indigenous Malays, Chinese prospectors, Indian immigrants and British colonials all helped shape the city and bestowed a assortment of cultural traditions. Temples and mosques rub shoulders with space-age towers and shopping malls, traders’ stalls are piled high with pungent durians and counterfeit handbags, and locals sip cappuccinos or feast on delicious hawker food.
KL’s city centre is surprisingly compact – from Chinatown to Masjid India takes little more than 10 minutes on foot; it’s often quicker to walk than take public transport. Merdeka Sq is the focus of colonial-era KL. Southeast across the river, Chinatown is popular with travellers for its budget accommodation and lively night market.
1Sights
1Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
oSin Sze Si Ya TempleTEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Tun HS Lee; 
h7am-5pm; LRT Pasar Seni) 
F
Kuala Lumpur’s oldest Chinese temple (1864) was built on the instructions of Kapitan Yap Ah Loy and is dedicated to Sin Sze Ya and Si Sze Ya, two Chinese deities believed instrumental in Yap’s ascension to Kapitan status. Several beautiful objects decorate the temple, including two hanging carved panels, but the best feature is the almost frontier-like atmosphere.
oMerdeka SquareSQUARE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dataran Merdeka; LRT Masjid Jamek)
The huge open square where Malaysian independence was declared in 1957 is ringed by heritage buildings, such as the magnificent Sultan Abdul Samad Building (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Raja) and St Mary’s Anglican Cathedral (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2692 8672; www.stmaryscathedral.org.my; Jln Raja; h8am-5pm), both designed by AC Norman. It also has an enormous flagpole and a fluttering Malaysian flag. In the British era, the square was used as a cricket pitch and called the Padang (field).
KL Forest Eco ParkNATURE RESERVE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Taman Eko Rimba KL; %03-2026 4741; www.forestry.gov.my; h8am-6pm; 
gKL Tower) F
KL’s urban roar is replaced by buzzing insects and cackling birdlife at this forest of tropical hardwoods, covering 9.37 hectares in the heart of the city. One of the oldest protected jungles in Malaysia (gazetted in 1906), the park is commonly known as Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill). Don’t miss traversing the lofty canopy walkway, which is easily reached from the Menara KL car park; signposts display walking routes. For longer forays, pick up a basic map to the trails from the Forest Information Centre (Jln Raja Chulan; h9am-5pm) – trails lead directly from here.
Menara Kuala LumpurTOWER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; KL Tower; %03-2020 5444; www.menarakl.com.my; 2 Jln Punchak; observation deck adult/child RM52/31, open deck adult/child RM105/55; hobservation deck 9am-10pm, last tickets 9.30pm; gKL Tower)
Although the Petronas Towers are taller, the 421m Menara KL, rising from the crest of Bukit Nanas, offers the best city views. The bulb at the top contains a revolving restaurant, an interior observation deck at 276m and, most thrilling of all, an open deck at 300m, access to which is weather dependent. Here (if you dare) you can take your photo in the sky box, which puts nothing but glass between you and the ground below (no young children allowed).
Masjid JamekMOSQUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Friday Mosque; off Jln Tun Perak; h9am-noon & 2.30-4pm Sat-Thu; LRT Masjid Jamek) F
Gracefully designed by British architect AB Hubback, this onion-domed mosque borrows Mogul and Moorish styles with its brick-and-plaster banded minarets and three shapely domes. Located at the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers, Masjid Jamek was the first brick mosque in Malaysia when completed in 1907. It remained the city’s centre of Islamic worship until the opening of the National Mosque in 1965.
Sri Mahamariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 163 Jln Tun HS Lee; h6am-8.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) F
Rising almost 23m above this lively temple is a tower colourfully decorated with Hindu gods. Founded in 1873, this Hindu temple is thought to be the oldest in Malaysia. Decorated in South Indian style, the temple is named for Mariamman, the South Indian mother goddess (also known as Parvati). Her shrine is at the back of the complex. On the left sits a shrine to the elephant-headed deity Ganesh, and on the right, one to Lord Murugan.
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Masjid India
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Bukit Bintang & KLCC
oPetronas TowersTOWER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2331 8080; www.petronastwintowers.com.my; Jln Ampang; adult/child RM85/35; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun, closed 1-2.30pm Fri; 
c; LRT KLCC)
Resembling twin silver rockets plucked from an episode of Flash Gordon, the Petronas Towers are the perfect allegory for the meteoric rise of the city from tin-miners’ hovel to 21st-century metropolis. Half of the 1500 tickets for 45-minute tours are sold in advance online. Otherwise turn up early to be sure of scoring a ticket to go up.
oILHAMGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ilhamgallery.com; 3rd & 5th fl, Ilham Tower, 8 Jln Binjai; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; LRT Ampang Park) F
This thought-provoking contemporary-art gallery is an excellent excuse to step inside the glossy, 60-storey ILHAM Tower. The artwork selected for ILHAM’s rotating exhibitions spans various media and is curated to provoke debate: expect anything from black-and-white photography to neon-coloured kampung houses.
KLCC ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Ampang, KLCC; h7am-10pm; c; LRT KLCC)
The park is the best vantage point for eyeballing the Petronas Towers. In the early evening it can seem like everyone in town has come down here to watch the glowing towers punching up into the night sky. Every night at 8pm, 9pm and 10pm the Lake Symphony fountains play in front of the Suria KLCC.
1Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar
oIslamic Arts MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Muzium Kesenian Islam Malaysia; %03-2092 7070; www.iamm.org.my; Jln Lembah Perdana; adult/child RM14/7; h10am-6pm; 
dKuala Lumpur)
Inhabiting a building every bit as impressive as its collection, this museum showcases Islamic decorative arts from around the globe. Scale models of the world’s best Islamic buildings, fabulous textiles, carpets, jewellery and calligraphy-inscribed pottery all vie for attention; the 19th-century recreation Damascus Room is a gold-leaf-decorated delight. Don’t forget to gaze up at the building’s intricate domes and tile work.
KL Bird ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE
(MAP; %03-2272 1010; www.klbirdpark.com; Jln Cenderawasih; adult/child RM67/45; h9am-6pm; c; dKuala Lumpur)
More than 3000 birds flutter and soar through this 21-hectare aviary. Some 200 species of (mostly) Asian birds can be spotted here, from strutting flamingos to parakeets. The park is divided into four sections: in the first two, birds fly freely beneath an enormous canopy. Section three features the native hornbills (so-called because of their enormous beaks), while section four offers the less-edifying spectacle of caged species.
Perdana Botanical GardenPARK
(%03-2617 6404; www.klbotanicalgarden.gov.my; h7am-8pm; c; dKuala Lumpur) F
Strolling around KL’s oldest public park, established in the 1880s, you’ll admire native and introduced flora from around Malaysia, including 800 species of orchid, mahogany trees more than 300 years old, and countless hibiscus blooms (the country’s national flower). Ferns, rare trees, medicinal herbs and aquatic plants each have their own gardens, all prettily arranged with gazebos and boardwalks (though there’s only limited signage to identify the plants). Pick up a map at the information booth (h7am-8pm; LRT Masjid Jamek).
National MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzium Negara; %03-2267 1111; www.muziumnegara.gov.my; Jln Damansara; adult/child RM5/2; h9am-6pm; dKL Sentral)
This excellent modern museum offers a good primer on Malaysia’s history, from prehistoric to present-day. The country’s geological features and prehistory are tackled in one gallery (which features a replica of the 11,000-year-old Perak Man, Malaysia’s most celebrated archaeological discovery). The gallery of modern history is even more interesting, with recreations of temple walls, royal beds and ceremonial garb from across the centuries.
Outside, look for a traditional raised house; ancient burial poles from Sarawak; a regularly changing exhibition (extra charge); and two excellent small side galleries, the Orang Asli Craft Museum (%03-2282 6255; www.jmm.gov.my) and Museum of Malay World Ethnology (%03-2267 1000; www.jmm.gov.my).
National MonumentMONUMENT
(Tugu Negara; Plaza Tugu Negara, Jln Parlimen; h7am-6pm; LRT Masjid Jamek) F
On a palm-fringed plaza with fine views of KL’s skyscrapers stands this bombastic monument. Commemorating military sacrifices in the name of Malaysian freedom, the National Monument’s centrepiece is a bronze sculpture of soldiers (one of them holding aloft the Malaysian flag), created in 1966 by Felix de Weldon, the artist behind the Iwo Jima monument near Washington, DC. A royal-blue pool and curved pavilion heighten the grand impression. Get a taxi from Masjid Jamek.
Masjid NegaraMOSQUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; National Mosque; www.masjidnegara.gov.my; Jln Lembah Perdana; h9am-noon, 3-4pm & 5.30-6.30pm, closed Fri morning; dKuala Lumpur) F
The main place of worship for KL’s Malay Muslim population is this gigantic 1960s mosque, inspired by Mecca’s Masjid al-Haram. Able to accommodate 15,000 worshippers, it has an umbrella-like blue-tile roof with 18 points symbolising the 13 states of Malaysia and the five pillars of Islam. Rising above the mosque, a 74m-high minaret issues the call to prayer, which can be heard across Chinatown. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit outside prayer times; robes are available for those who are not dressed appropriately.
1Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL
oKampung BaruAREA
(LRT Kampung Baru)
In this neighbourhood of traditional Malay wooden houses, village life unfolds despite the surrounding skyscrapers. Gazetted by the British in 1899, Kampung Baru’s low-slung charms are best revealed by simply wandering its streets, ideally with a guide on the city’s Kampung Baru walking tour (Jalan-Jalan at Kampung Baru; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; h4.15-7pm Tue, Thu & Sun; 
DMedan Tuanku) F. Along the way enjoy tasty home-cooked Malay food at unpretentious roadside cafes and stalls.
oNational Visual Arts GalleryGALLERY
(NVAG, Balai Seni Lukis Negara; %03-4026 7000; www.artgallery.gov.my; 2 Jln Temerloh; h10am-6pm; DTitiwangsa) F
For their inventiveness and sheer scale, the artworks on display at the NVAG are worth a trip out of central KL. In rotating exhibitions by regional artists, themes of Malaysian politics and local identity positively leap from canvases. Upper galleries are accessed by a spiral-shaped ramp that recalls the Guggenheim Museum, while the lower level has a permanent collection of 4000 pieces.
WORTH A TRIP
BATU CAVES
Hindu deities rule over the Batu Caves, a system of three caves 13km northwest of the capital. The main focus is Temple Cave (h8am-8.30pm; dBatu Caves) F, which contains a Hindu shrine reached by a straight flight of 272 steps, guarded by a 42.7m golden statue of Murugan, said to be the largest in the world. The caves are busy every day, but hundreds of thousands of pilgrims converge on the caves every year during Thaipusam (January/February) to engage in or watch the spectacularly masochistic feats of the devotees.
Take KTM Komuter Trains to Batu Caves (RM2.60, 30 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes). A taxi costs RM20 to RM30.
4Sleeping
4Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
oReggae MansionHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2072 6877; www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion; 49-59 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm RM48-58, d RM140-150, tr RM200; 
a
i
W; LRT Masjid Jamek)
Grooving to a beat that’s superior to most backpacker places, Reggae Mansion instantly impresses with its faux-colonial style and contemporary touches, including a lively rooftop bar, mini-cinema and flash cafe-bar. Container-style beds feel private, though one dorm is very large (24 beds). Ask for a quieter room away from the bar if you’re not a night owl.
oBackHomeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2022 0788; www.backhome.com.my; 30 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm RM50-80, d RM138-144, tr RM156, all incl breakfast; aiW; LRT Masjid Jamek)
This chic pitstop for flashpackers offers polished-concrete finishes, Zen decoration, rain showers (all rooms share bathrooms) and a blissful central courtyard with spindly trees. There are mixed, women-only and couples’ dorms (sleeping four). Also on site is pleasant LOKL Coffee (MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://loklcoffee.com; mains RM16-30; h8am-6pm; W).
Mingle HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2022 2078; www.minglekl.com; 53 Jln Sultan; mixed/female dm from RM55/58, r from RM108; aiW; LRT Pasar Seni)
Occupying a 1920s building once owned by a Chinese tycoon, Mingle Hostel has a natural feel with venerable stone walls and lounge zones open to the air. Dorms and rooms feel ample, each bed with its own air-con and electrical sockets. Occasional antiques and old brass lamps hark back to the building’s glory days as a social hall.
Lantern HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2020 1648; www.lanternhotel.com; 38 Jln Petaling; d RM95-115, tr RM125, all incl breakfast; aW; LRT Pasar Seni)
You can’t get more central to Chinatown than this slickly designed, contemporary hotel. Simple, whitewashed rooms have lime or tangerine feature walls and private bathrooms – the cheapest ones have no windows. A huge plus is the terrace with a cityscape mural, creeper plants and a view of Petaling Street Market.
Paloma InnHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2110 6677; www.hotelpalomainn.com.my; 12-14 Jln Sin Chew Kee; dm/s/d/tr RM40/100/105/170; aiW; DHang Tuah)
Set on a backstreet of painted pre-war shophouses, Paloma is well run and quiet, with simple, mostly wooden-floored rooms, featuring occasional flashes of magenta, and pleasingly modern bathrooms. The nightlife of Changkat Bukit Bintang is a 10-minute walk away. Rates are slightly higher Friday to Sunday. Breakfast is an extra RM10, and there’s a laundry service from RM12.
SPLURGE
Checking in to the neon-accented Wolo Bukit Bintang (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2719 1333; www.thewolo.com; cnr Jln Bukit Bintang & Jln Sultan Ismail; d from RM230; aW; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) feels like sashaying into a nightclub. Mirror-clad elevators whisk you to corridors dimly lit by cloud-shaped lanterns. In the rooms, mattresses sit on a blonde-wood base, like a futon, and the shower and toilet are hidden behind padded-leather doors. This is the place to party like a pop star (but on a midrange budget).
4Bukit Bintang & KLCC
Classic InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2148 8648; www.classicinn.com.my; 36 & 52 Lg 1/77A; d incl breakfast RM118-138; aiW; DImbi)
Check-in is at the newer, more upmarket branch of Classic Inn at No 36, where there are spotless rooms all with private bathrooms and a pleasant verandah cafe. The original yellow-painted shophouse at No 52 continues to be a retro-charming choice with plain but perfectly agreeable private rooms, a small grassy garden and welcoming staff.
5Eating
5Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
Madras Lane HawkersHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Madras Lane; noodles RM5-6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun; LRT Pasar Seni)
Enter beside the Guandi Temple to find this alley of hawker stalls. It’s best visited for breakfast or lunch. One of its stand-out operators offers 10 types of yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with tofu and a fish-and-pork paste). The bak kut teh (pork and medicinal-herbs stew) and curry laksa stalls are also good.
Merchant’s LaneFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2022 1736; www.facebook.com/merchantslane/home; Level 1, 150 Jln Petaling; mains RM20-30; h11.30am-10pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9.30am-10pm Sat & Sun; W; DMaharajalela)
Stairs lead up from a narrow doorway to this high-ceilinged charmer of a cafe. Staff nurture an easygoing vibe and punters are a mix of tourists and locals, united by enthusiasm for Instagramming the greenery-draped venue and its fusion cuisine. East-meets-West dishes like chicken with green-stained pandan rice and ‘Italian chow mein’ are hit and miss, but the venue is a delight.
DON’T MISS
JALAN ALOR
The collection of roadside restaurants and stalls lining Jln Alor (MAP GOOGLE MAP; h24hr; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) is the great common denominator of KL’s food scene, hauling in everyone from sequinned society babes to penny-strapped backpackers. From around 5pm till late every evening, the street transforms into a continuous open-air dining space with hundreds of plastic tables and chairs and rival caterers shouting out to passers-by to drum up business (avoid the pushiest ones!). Most places serve alcohol and you can sample pretty much every Malay Chinese dish imaginable, from grilled fish and satay to kai-lan (Chinese greens) in oyster sauce and fried noodles with frogs’ legs. Thai food is also popular.
5Bukit Bintang & KLCC
Nasi Kandar PelitaFOOD HALL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2162 5532; www.pelita.com.my; 149 Jln Ampang; mains RM8-15; h24hr; LRT KLCC)
There’s round-the-clock eating at the Jln Ampang branch of this chain of excellent mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food courts. It’s cheap, clean and offers plenty of choice: browse roti canai (flat, flaky bread), chicken cooked in the tandoor (cylindrical oven) and biryani (spiced rice dishes) before you decide.
Lot 10 HutongHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lot10hutong.com; basement, Lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; dishes RM9-18; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)
Lot 10 Hutong was the first mall to encourage top hawkers to open branches in a basement food court. In its well-designed space it has pulled in names such as Soong Kee, which has served beef noodles since 1945. Look also for Kong Tai’s oyster omelettes, Hon Kee’s Cantonese porridge, Kim Lian Kee’s Hokkien mee and Penang Famous Fried Koay Teow.
Imbi Market at ICC PuduHAWKER$
(Jln 1/77C; dishes RM5-10; h6am-2pm; LRT Pudu)
The rather clinical grey-and-white, purpose-built food court at ICC Pudu might lack the colour and atmosphere of the old Imbi market, but many old vendors are here serving the same mouthwatering food (with more expected to join them). Top eats include the freshly made rice-flour noodles at Ah Fook Chee Cheong Fun; rice with rich, spicy sambal at Ann Nasi Lemak; and sticky treats at Nyonya Kuih sweet stall.
Several stalls are located in a separate kopitiam, Ah Weng Koh Hainan Tea (www.facebook.com/AhWengKohHainanTea/; lot G85 ICC Pudu, Jln 1/77C; dishes RM3-10; h5.30am-2pm; LRT Pudu), situated just outside the main food court. Here you’ll find Sisters Crispy Popiah serving exquisite wraps, and stalls selling kaya toast, tea and coffee.
5Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL
Capital CaféMALAYSIAN$
(213 Jln TAR; dishes RM4-6; h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; LRT Bandaraya)
In a formula little-changed since it opened in 1956, Capital Café has no frills, only fabulously old-fashioned Malay food. Chinese, Malay and Indian chefs work together to rush plates of mee goreng, rojak (salad doused in a peanut-sauce dressing) and satay (evenings only) to hungry diners; on busy days, you may have to share a table.
Masjid India Pasar MalamHAWKER$
(Night Market; Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman; street food RM5-10; h3pm-midnight Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek)
Stalls pack out the length of Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman, the alley between Jln TAR and Masjid India. Amid the headscarf and T-shirt sellers are plenty of stalls serving excellent Malay, Indian and Chinese snacks and colourful soya- and fruit-based drinks.
6Drinking & Nightlife
6Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
oAku Cafe & GalleryCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2857 6887; www.oldchina.com.my/aku.html; 1st fl, 8 Jln Panggong; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; LRT Pasar Seni)
This intimate, art-filled cafe serves good hand-drip brews, ice-blended drinks and juices from pressed apple to banana smoothie. Light meals and pasta dishes are outshone by the inventive dessert menu (try the pandan panna cotta). There are some unusual craft souvenirs for sale, too.
oPahitCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2110 0776; www.facebook.com/barpahit; 3 Jln Sin Chew Kee; h5pm-1am Tue-Sun; DHang Tuah)
Tucked inside an unassuming gateway, Pahit immortalises its ‘juniper and joy’ ethos with a neon sign. Inside the brick-lined bar, skilled mixologists combine their favourite gins with gingerflower, pomelo and all manner of exotic flavours.
VCRCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2110 2330; www.vcr.my; 2 Jln Galloway; h8.30am-11pm; W; DHang Tuah)
Set in an airy pre-war shophouse, VCR serves first-rate coffee, all-day breakfasts (RM19 to RM35) and desserts to a diverse crowd of backpackers and laptop-wielding locals.
6Bukit Bintang & KLCC
oHeli Lounge BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2110 5034; www.facebook.com/Heliloungebar; Level 34, Menara KH, Jln Sultan Ismail; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 11am Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)
With exhilarating 360-degree views, this dizzying rooftop bar is the best place for sundowners in KL. Steady your hands carrying your daiquiri or lychee martini upstairs from the gleaming bar to the helipad, where bird’s-eye views prompt selfies galore.
oZoukCLUB
(www.zoukclub.com.my; TREC, 436 Jln Tun Razak; RM25-45; h10pm-3am Sun-Tue, to 4am Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)
If you’re going to visit one club in KL, make it Zouk at TREC. Among its seven party spaces are the Main Room, which reverberates to electro, techno and trance; Ace, a hip-hop and R&B club; and the surprisingly green balcony deck. Wear your flashiest threads (no T-shirts or sandals). Get a taxi from AirAsia-Bukit Bintang.
Taps Beer BarMICROBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2110 1560; www.tapsbeerbar.my; One Residency, 1 Jln Nagasari; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; Wc; DRaja Chulan)
Taps specialises in ale from around the world, with some 80 different microbrews on rotation, 14 of them on tap. There’s live music Thursday to Saturday at 9.30pm and regular beer festivals and events. There’s also a menu of Malay and American-style comfort food (mains RM15 to RM50).
7Shopping
Museum of Ethnic ArtsANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %03-2301 1468; 2nd fl, the Annexe, 10 Jln Hang Kasturi; h11am-7pm; LRT Pasar Seni)
Although this place is billed as a museum, almost everything is for sale in this extraordinary private collection of tribal arts from Borneo. You’ll also find Nonya ceramics, Tibetan thangka paintings, Chinese paintings and porcelain, embroidered wall hangings, hand-carved boxes and doors, and all manner of delights from Malaysia and the region. There’s also a gallery of contemporary artworks.
Petaling Street MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Petaling; h10am-10.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni)
Malaysia’s relaxed attitude towards counterfeit goods is well illustrated at this heavily hyped night market bracketed by fake Chinese gateways. Traders start to fill Jln Petaling from midmorning until it is jam-packed with market stalls selling everything from fake Mulberry handbags to jackfruit. Visit in the afternoon if you want to take pictures or see the market without the crowds.
8Information
IMMIGRATION OFFICE
Immigration Office (%03-6205 7400; www.imi.gov.my; 69 Jln Sri Hartamas 1, off Jln Duta; h7.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-12.15pm & 2.45-5.30pm Fri; gU83, 
mSemantan) Handles visa extensions; offices are opposite Publika mall.
INTERNET ACCESS
Kuala Lumpur is blanketed with hot spots for wi-fi connections (usually free). Internet cafes are less common these days, but a few still exist.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Kuala Lumpur (%03-2615 5555; www.hkl.gov.my; Jln Pahang; DTitiwangsa, LRT Titiwangsa) City’s main hospital, north of the centre.
Twin Towers Medical Centre KLCC (MAP; %03-2382 3500; http://ttmcklcc.com.my; Level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; LRT KLCC) Located in the mall (MAP; %03-2382 2828; www.suriaklcc.com.my; KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC) attached to the Petronas Towers, with a second clinic near KL Sentral.
MONEY
Most banks and shopping malls provide international ATMs (typically on the ground floor or basement level). Money changers frequently offer better rates than banks for changing cash and (at times) travellers cheques; they’re usually open later and at weekends and are found in shopping malls.
POST
Main Post Office (MAP; %03-2267 2267; www.pos.com.my; Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; LRT Pasar Seni) Across the river from the Central Market.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Visit KL (Kuala Lumpur Tourism Bureau; MAP; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; 11 Jln Tangsi; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; W; LRT Masjid Jamek) In addition to supplying tons of useful brochures and maps, Visit KL runs free walking tours, including a 2½-hour tour of KL’s heritage sites (at 9am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays).
Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTiC; MAP; %03-9235 4900; www.matic.gov.my/en; 109 Jln Ampang; h8am-10pm; DBukit Nanas) Provides information on KL and tourism across Malaysia. There’s also a cultural dance show staged at the theatre here (at 3pm Monday to Saturday; free).
8Getting There & Away
Kuala Lumpur is a major transport hub, with direct flights connecting Kuala Lumpur International Airport with cities all over the world. The city is also easily reached on a host of short-haul local flights, many of them with budget airlines such as AirAsia and Firefly; most of these flights arrive at the SkyPark Subang Terminal, which is also known as Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport.
The city has rail connections to Singapore in the south and Thailand in the north, with stops at Butterworth (for Penang) and Alor Setar (for Langkawi) along the way. Long-distance buses connect KL with major cities all over Malaysia and beyond; most of these now leave from the Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS; %03-9051 2000; www.tbsbts.com.my; Jln Terminal Selatan, Bandar Tasik Selatan; dBandar Tasik Selatan, LRT Bandar Tasik Selatan). Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
AIR
Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA; %03-8777 7000; www.klia.com.my; dKLIA) Kuala Lumpur’s main airport has two terminals and is about 55km south of the city.
SkyPark Subang Terminal (Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport; %03-7842 2773; www.subangskypark.com; M17, Subang) Firefly, Berjaya Air and some AirAsia and Malindo Air flights land here, around 23km west of the city centre.
BUS
Connected to the Bandar Tasik Selatan train-station hub, about 15 minutes south of KL Sentral, is Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, which was built to replace Pudu Sentral as KL’s main long-distance bus station. TBS operators, including Plusliner (%03-4047 7878; www.plusliner.com.my), serve destinations to the south and northeast of KL. This vast, modern transport hub has a centralised ticketing service (CTS) selling tickets for nearly all bus companies – including services offered by major operator Transnasional Express – at counters on level 3 or online (up to three hours before departure).
Pudu Sentral (MAP; Jln Pudu; LRT Plaza Rakyat) Only a handful of destinations are still served by Pudu Sentral Bus Station, including Genting Highlands, Seremban and Kuala Selangor. Note that nearly all long distance buses from KL now leave from Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, a 20-minute journey from Plaza Rakyat station (just behind Pudu Sentral) on the LRT.
Pekeliling Bus Station (off Jln Pekeliling Lama; LRT Titiwangsa, DTitiwangsa) Bus station serving central Pahang towns including Jerantut, Temerloh and Kuala Lipis, as well as east-coast destinations such as Kuantan.
Buses from Kuala Lumpur:
| Destination | Fare (RM) | Duration (hr) |
|---|---|---|
| Alor Setar | 43-55 | 5 |
| Butterworth | 35-45 | 4½ |
| Cameron Highlands | 23-35 | 4 |
| Ipoh | 21-33 | 2½ |
| Johor Bahru | 34-55 | 4 |
| Kuantan | 24-29 | 4 |
| Melaka | 10-17 | 2 |
| Penang | 30-40 | 5 |
| Singapore | 45-50 | 6 |
TRAIN
All long-distance trains depart from KL Sentral (%1300-889 933; www.ktmb.com.my), hub of the KTM (Keretapi Tanah Melayu; %03-2267 1200; www.ktmb.com.my; hcall centre 7am-10pm) national railway system. The information office in the main hall can advise on schedules and check seat availability.
There are daily connections with Butterworth, Johor Bahru, Hat Yai (Thailand) and Singapore. Fares are cheap, especially if you opt for a seat rather than a berth (for which there are extra charges), but journey times are slow.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) Trains RM55; every 15 minutes from 5am to 1am; 30 minutes to KL Sentral. Buses RM10; every hour from 5.30am to 12.30am; one hour to KL Sentral. Taxis from RM75; one hour to central KL.
SkyPark Subang Terminal Shuttles RM10; hourly between 9am and 9pm; one hour to KL Sentral.
BUS
Most buses are provided by either Rapid KL (%03-7885 2585; www.rapidkl.com.my; RM1-5; h6am-11.30pm) or Metrobus (%03-5635 3070). There’s an information booth (MAP; Jln Hang Kasturi; h7am-9pm; LRT Pasar Seni) at the Jln Sultan Mohammed bus stop in Chinatown. Rapid KL buses have their destinations clearly displayed. Fares are from RM1 to RM3.80.
Local buses leave from half-a-dozen small bus stands around the city – useful stops in Chinatown include Jln Sultan Mohamed by Pasar Seni, Bangkok Bank (MAP) on Lebuh Pudu, and Medan Pasar on Lebuh Ampang.
The GO-KL free city bus (%1800-887 723; www.facebook.com/goklcitybus; h6am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Sat, 7am-11pm Sun) has four circular routes around the city, with stops at KLCC, KL Tower, KL Sentral, the National Museum and Merdeka Sq. Buses run every five minutes during peak hours and every 10 to 15 minutes at other times.
TAXI
KL has plenty of air-conditioned taxis, which queue up at designated taxi stops across the city. Fares start at RM3 for the first three minutes, with an additional 25 sen for each 36 seconds. From midnight to 6am there’s a surcharge of 50% on the metered fare. Some drivers refuse to use the meter, even though this is a legal requirement.
One of the easiest ways to use taxis in KL is to download an app such as Uber, Easy Taxi or Grab (formally known as My Teksi) to your smartphone or tablet.
TRAIN
Rapid KL runs the Light Rail Transit (LRT; %03-7885 2585; www.myrapid.com.my; from RM1.30; hevery 6-10min 6am-11.45pm Mon-Sat, to 11.30pm Sun) system. There are three lines: the Ampang line from Ampang to Sentul Timur; the Sri Petaling line from Sentul Timur to Putra Heights; and the Kelana Jaya line from Gombak to Putra Heights. Buy single-journey tokens or MyRapid cards from the cashier or electronic ticket machines.
KTM Komuter (www.ktmb.com.my; from RM1.40; h6.45am-11.45pm) train services run every 15 to 20 minutes from 6am to 11.45pm and use KL Sentral as a hub. There are two lines: Tanjung Malim to Pelabuhan Klang and Batu Caves to Pulau Sebang/Tampin.
The air-conditioned monorail (www.myrapid.com.my; RM1.20-4.10; h6am-midnight) zips from KL Sentral to Titiwangsa, linking many of the city’s sightseeing areas.